By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
you might find that to take the one that is on there off, you'll have to use a large pipe wrench, or even a specially designed thing that fits on the end of the filter.
out of curiousity, how low is your current oil level? that 10K recommendation personally seems far far far too long. even 7.5K seems too long to me. if you had synthetic, I'd be willing to see 7.5K maybe, but with regular oil, I think 4-5K is a good change period.
i remember hearing it's more important to change the filter than the oil. i have trouble believing that, but regardless, i think you're pushing the envelope on regular oil.
just because your mileage is below average does not mean you don't fall under a "severe" schedule.
I will use synthetic from now on and change oil more frequently.
I have an American vehicle that gets about 6,000 miles a year on it. All of the mileage is highway with adequate run times to heat the oil up. With that type of running and also using synthetics, an annual change is very adequate. Now change that 6,000 miles to stop and go, short trips, and the oil change frequency increases.
My Accord hit 150,000 miles and most of the miles are highway oriented. I go about 5,000 miles between changes. Again these are good miles and dino oil should be able to give good protection based on this type of driving.
Jack
many thanks
amazing.
maybe yours was over-filled to some extent (maybe a 1/2 pint) to begin with.
yes since oil coats the cylinder walls, i believe it is practically impossible NOT to consume some oil at some rate. my accord and odyssey consume some oil, but not a lot. maybe 1/4-1/2 pint in 5K.
if i switched to synthetic, 7.5K - 10K seems like a good interval. 4.5-5.5K for the regular stuff seems good to me also.
people's opinions on the matter vary a good bit.
i just think 10K is pushing it. specially with the regular stuff. always always put on a new, correctly sized good quality filter.
i think if you've got a car that is an oil sipper, practically no-consumption, rejoice, but, check your oil on a regular basis anyway (every two fillups is what i do). if something that's working perfectly develops a problem, you want to catch it sooner, rather than later.
enjoy.
amazing.
It sounds like you expect oil loss between changes. As the other poster said that really shouldn't happen with a modern vehicle, especially a Honda. If a Honda is using oil between changes there is a problem. If the loss is being measured in ml that's ok, but more isn't normal. My $0.02.
Does this mean I could replace the spacer and add a 6th gear on my 2003 CR-V?
Yes, people have done it on the other site
amazing.
It sounds like you expect oil loss between changes. As the other poster said that really shouldn't happen with a modern vehicle, especially a Honda. If a Honda is using oil between changes there is a problem. If the loss is being measured in ml that's ok, but more isn't normal. My $0.02.
Expectation of no oil loss is from lack of understanding how engines operate and how oil is used.
Regardless of the tolerances, oil will be used because if the oil scavanging ring removed all of the oil from the cylinder wall the friction would be so immnese the engine would not turn.
After each pitson ride down an oil film at least (in perfect world) 1 molecule thin is left behind and is burned off. These layers add up to a mesurable amount over 5000 miles.
Some looser engines allow some of the combustion byproducts in to the oil. The gases then condense and add to the oil level, which may give someone an impression that the engine is not losing any oil at all. The looser the engine, the more products get in. Some may even have higher oil level after 5000 miles than they began with. It is not good either.
Actually, Honda spec is 1 qt per 1000 miles as an acceptable oil loss.
If there is no smoke out the tail pipe the oil loss is normal. It just means that the seals in are doing their job in preventing combustion by-products from getting into the oil.
Having heavily contaminated oil is much worse than having to add some oil between oil changes. No oil loss gives the owner a false sence of security.
If you have a vehicle that "does not burn a drop of oil" take out the dipstick and smell it right before changing oil. It will smell like gasoline. Open a bottle of oil and it does not smell like gasoline at all.
Some of the smell is obviously attributed to the broken down olefin chains, but most of it is from combustion by-product contamination.
blueiegod was backing up my assertion and providing some more background as to how the consumption occurs and how it may appear to you that you haven't consumed much if any.
i'm sticking to my original assertion. at this point, we are arguing minutia. check next time between changes if your engine has consumed ANY oil. we say yes, you say no.
there are great engines in these vehicles if you keep the oil changed on a regular basis.
peace.
MNF
or try googling it. you can probably find one for sale on-line.
i suggest you use japanese in your google search phrase.
In your specific situation, if you are that close the difference between measuring cold and when the engine is hot is not a big deal to the lubrication of your engine. The area between full on your dipstick and the add line is within the normal tolerances that your engine can run in.
Jack
THANKS.
when i do check the engine level warm, i do so a number of times in succession.
Seat belts and hardware are warranted for life. You should not pay to have them replaced.
I had a problem.
no matter what temperature is outsite. Every morning, I start up my car, the idle speed goes up to 1800 RPM.
Couple more minutes later, the idle speed goes back around 1000 RPM.
If anybody knows the issue, please tell me sa.
I will really appreciate.
I had a problem.
no matter what temperature is outsite. Every morning, I start up my car, the idle speed goes up to 1800 RPM.
Couple more minutes later, the idle speed goes back around 1000 RPM.
If anybody knows the issue, please tell me sa.
I will really appreciate.
Did you own any other car previous to the CR-V?
I think it is called fast idle for a reason. Because it is fast. It is needed to warm up the engine quicker.
After you have driven the car for a few miles, what RPM's is it running at?
Does this mean I could replace the spacer and add a 6th gear on my 2003 CR-V?
Yes, people have done it on the other site "
That's pretty interesting, since the 2003 CR-V only had 4 gears normally, rather than the 5 gears used in the 2005 and later models...
Just Completed my first 3000 Miles on my 07 CRV. Please suggest when do I get it done my first Oil change and service.
Your suggestions and tips will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot for your reply.
Regards
Ram
Thank you for the response, though.
Personally I printed out the maintenance schedule page from the 06 CRV (online) manual and pasted it on my 07 manual back page.
it or stop it then it displays an error message --can't read cd until you
let it sit for 5 min then it will work again. Anyone have this problem and
what did you do to fix it short of replacement.
That is because REAL Transmissions, not slush boxes, had 5 gears on every Honda since 1984, and were optional even earlier on.
These are Acura5150's pictures.
Original 5 spd Tranny
Modified 6 spd CR-V tranny
Modifing a slush box vehicle is like giving a Ferarri to a quadroploegic.
Sorry, I don't understand your response. Are you saying the 2003 CR-V 4 speed transmission could be modified to a six speed?
And anyway, aren't these automatic transmissions electronically shifted, which means the CPU has to be setup to shift correctly?
yes, that is my understanding as well. in fact, honda changed out a defective seat belt for me in my 1981 civic when it had 220,000 miles on it and was 6 years old...all for free.
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
lol
Slush box - automatic, power is tranferred from the engine to the wheels through fluid medium, like the hydraulic fluid, aka ATF - Automatic Transmission Fuild.
Manual - real transmission - power is transmitted to the wheels through a clutch and bunch of gears, usually 10 (5 spd) or 12 (6 spd). MTF - manual transmission fluid is only served as lubricant, not transfer medium.
Hmmm, I thought that the clutches were engaged via hydraulics, while it was the various planetary gears that caused the transfer of power. That is a bit different than having the power actually routed "through a fluid medium".
Our CRV is a 2003 with 59,500 miles.
Just thought I would let folks know since this seems to be a common problem with the CRV's
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=CR-V&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=THROTTLE+BODY
Did you call Honda to see if they would help you? It seems odd it would fail.
I spoke to the guy who does my service(specializes in Honda and Acura) and he said that he has only had to change out twice, on I believe Accords. One of those was due to contaminated gas.
Just one more maintenance item(fuel filter) that is tied to another part.
I guess I do not understand how a fuel filter can last as long as the pump, but maybe it is too 'high tech' for me to understand.
By the way, if anyone experiences a bad throttle body out of warranty, there are a couple of posts a while ago that talked about getting them replaced for free even when out of the factory warranty.
Check out torque converter operation. The actual medium transferring power from the engine side to the tranny side is hydraulic fluid. Until lock up kicks in.
I believe if you call up Honda corporate (number on the back of the manual) and present your case (loyal Honda owner, many honda's blah, blah, blah), they will most likely cover it, or at least cover it partially.
It has 82000 Mileage on it right now.
Every time, I start up my car in the morning, the RPM goes up to 1800 RPM. At the same time, TWANG NOISE FROM THE FRONT SUSPENSION THAT SOUNDS LIKE A SPRING CONTACT appeared.
2-3 Min later. The RPM goes back to normal, as well as the noise.
Is it normal? or just some problems causing this noise?
Thanks to those folks before me who posted this problem, and solution.