Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    Hi I wasn't able to send my repair receipt ,i did scan it but dont known how to attach it to the message, I want to include some more of my trouble with my car,Yesterday a lady friend called my wife and asked how everything was ,my wife then told her about my car and the trouble we had, So she said to my wife ,well your lucky because your husband is a retired mechanic, so my wife answered her by saying that myself being a mechanic did not make a bit of difference due to the tools required for trouble shooting,But that not all after i got my car back from the Dealer i asked them why the Engine code light was still on ,The mechanic said that its because of the Oxygen Sensor was one of the problem,So i told him that i would just remove the Battery ground cable to clear it off ,But he said dont do that ,as it will cause problem with the ECM and would have to be re programmed, i thought to myself boy what a bunch of bologna, asked him what was the cost of the Oxygen sensor said $300.00 the company required that the two should be replaced at the same time,So there goes another $600.00 plus labor,I told him to go to hell came home removed the Battery ground cable reinstall cable after approximately 30 seconds the engine light is off my car still run good , so this is my story,as i am a retired mechanic it just prove that anyone can get shafted
  • w9cww9cw Member Posts: 888
    FYI . . . the downstream O2 sensor for your car is $85.00 US and the upstream O2 sensor is $120.00 US at my local Advance Auto Parts store. Certainly, you would have equivalent auto parts stores in Canada. An O2 sensor is not necessarily easy to replace, especially if it was not originally installed with anti-sieze compound on the threads. Dealer prices for "all" parts are a rip in most cases. If you can do the work yourself, you will save a bunch of money.
  • 1sthyundai1sthyundai Member Posts: 7
    I own a 2003 Sonata GLS I just purchased used, and according to the owner's manual, the fog lights should go in when turned on, if the lheadlights are in the first or second position (1st position being the parking lights only). The fog lights do not go on when the headlights are in 1st position and i couldn't figure out why. Then suddenly this morning, after driving to work while in the parking lot, i noticed that the lights that once used to automatically shut off when the car was turned off, didn't shut off, and when i turned the lights manually back to just the parking lights, the fog lights stayed on. is there something wrong? maybe a setting adjustment or something?
    Thanks!
  • duckpondduckpond Member Posts: 2
    I have a '97 Sonata GL [automatic] with 158,000 miles. It has been relatively problem free, until yesterday. Was unable to shift the car into reverse, all of the other gears work.

    Is this a transmission problem? Should I have it towed to my regular mechanic [who can't even look at it until Monday], a transmission shop, or the dealership? Any ideas as to what the problem &/or costs involved might be?

    As you can probably tell, I'm woefully ignorant when it comes to cars.

    Thanks for any advice.
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    Hi yes there are problems with these transmission, first thing you should do is Go to the dealer and ask them to run a scan,as these car are all computer operated,Could be that it only need to be re programmed,They would also be able to tell you what is wrong with your transmission ,But speculate to the service manager that your not willing to pay for just guessing,And dont let them start anything until you are sure of what they will be doing and the cost ,get this on paper,Why!! well for one thing the dealer is your best shot,as there are not really not many back yard mechanics who knows much about the Hyundai,Second the Dealers knows what to do ,but dont let them put the screws on to you,as they will if they get the chance,Once you get the cause of your problem ,And what they request you about the repairs ,and the cost,before you do anything ,start asking question, such as on this message board,I was told that it is cheaper to replace these transmission ,then to repair them ,Dont look to get one in the junk yard,as these car are there for a reason,just be care full that is my experience as i am a retired mechanic(76 years old) to old to work but young enough to give advises
  • jntjnt Member Posts: 316
    To anyone who may be able to offer some troubleshooting advice, prior to me having an outragious maintenance bill at my "friendly" Hyundai Dealer. I own a 2001 Sonata GLS V-6, 81000 miles. Just two days ago my car radio wants to play even though I don't turn it on; yes, it comes on by itself. I have never heard of any problems like this and don't recall seeing anything similar in the forum. Can anyone please HELP!!! Thanks, Tom

    Tom,

    Your radio may have "intermitten" Power Push button or Power Control . It is likely limited to the Switch/Display board of the radio.

    Normally, to turn on radio, you push on "ON" button or turn the "ON' knob. This action sends the signal to the radio computer to start the Power On process. It is likely the electrical contact is dirty and keep bouncing back and forth between ON and OFF states.

    If your vehicle is out of warranty, you can either get a replacement from a dealer or buy a cheap one from a junkyard. If you are an electronic hacker, you can take the radio apart carefully and examine Switch Board and the Main radio board. May be you have intermitten connector.

    My personal advise: if this radio does not drain down your battery and play normally except for the intermitten incidents, leave it alone until it does not work anymore. Then you can take it apart and see what wrong at that time. Another option is to buy a Aftermarket radio (less than $200.00). They do sell adapter harness wire for different vehicles

    jt
  • duckpondduckpond Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the advice :-)

    Maybe I should clarify a bit, the car shifts into reverse but won't go backwards.
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    you should check your shifting mechanism on top of your transmission . as i have mentioned. the Hyundai mechanic will be able to tell you for certain of what is the cause of it,When my own transmission had started giving me problem although a Transmission repair shop had told me that the transmission had to have some repair done ,asked them the cost and he told me $300.00 plus labour and tax,But the Dealer cured it by simple re programing the ECM for $35.00 for the scan ,as mentioned The tool needed for scanning these Hyundai is called a Pro-Scan, and there are software that are needed to be down loaded for certain problem and the only ones who have this tool are the Hyundai Dealer,other type will not work,at the dealer you will at least get the proper repairs done,dont have these peoples who tell you that its this and that,and will do the job by replacing just about everything possible that has anything to do with the transmission ,of course they will eventually have it fixed ,but at twice what it would cost you to replace the transmission,thats my advice,just think about it,and figure out what is the best for you,at this time your car has a problem,But make sure that some supposed mechanics dont make where you will have 10 more problems
  • dan19dan19 Member Posts: 10
    Just bought a 2006 Sonata LX. The electric seat (the seat portion; not the back) does not angle back far enough to provide leg support. It is barely level. Instead, though, you can angle it way forward into positions that I can't imagine anyone desiring. Has anyone else had this problem? I checked another LX on the lot and it was the same way. Was it a bad day at the factory or did the engineers really want it this way?
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,602
    In addition to raising the front portion of the seat, have you also lowered the rear portion? That may help.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Point of information: Hyundai dealers do not do internal repair work on automatic transmissions that goes deeper than light repair of the valve body assembly. If the trouble is really deep and requires removal and complete tear-down (very likely given the accumulated mileage on duckpond's '97 Sonata), the old transmission will be exchanged for a rebuilt transmission minus the core charge on the old one if it's rebuildable. If all goes well getting the core charge refunded, the total out of pocket cost will probably be in the neighborhood of $2,500.00U.S. duckpond would have to weigh the anticipated repair bill against the car's value if it were still running well. One other point - NO auto dealer will tie up a technician without charging the customer for the diagnostics unless it's a warranty issue in which the manufacturer would be billed.
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    your message sent ,was exactly going to be my next message,My advice just included to the person to be carefull on who would offer her to do the repairs,The reason that Hyundai does not do any internal repairs ,is as they mention that it is cheaper to replace the transmission with a rebuilt unit,which is understandable
  • 1sthyundai1sthyundai Member Posts: 7
    I posted a message about a possible issue with my headlights and since then there have been other questions posted that actually got RESPONSES and nobody can take the time to respond to my inquiry, even if to tell me there is no issue.

    THANKS A LOT EVERYONE. :mad:
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    As for myself not responding. Is that i do not have an answer to your problem Sorry for the no answer from anyone on this forum
  • 01sonata01sonata Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 six cylinder Sonata with 114,000 miles. About six months ago, I replaced the spark plugs (and wires) on it, cylinder 3 was misfiring. Things had been running smooth since then. Now, about 10,000 miles later, cylinder 2 is misfiring (this according to Autozone diagnostics). I really have two questions. First, the engine started sputtering on a tank of gas that I happened to add fuel injector cleaner to. Coincidence? That was about three tanks ago. Since then, the sputtering has gotten worse, developing into downright hesitation. Yesterday the check engine light finally came on. Went to Autozone, he attached the reader and it says cylinder two now. He said it could be the spark plug, the wire, or the coil. So, do I replace just the plug first? Any other suggestions? Which cylinder is #2. From my previous endeavour, I thought the evens were in front, and could be changed in like 15 minutes, and the odds were in back, took about four hours to change those.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    I'm not very smart about ignition issues, but, what I would do would be to exchange the #2 spark plug with one of its neighbors and see if the missfiring followed the original #2 plug to its new location. If it does, it seems to this not-very-bright person that the spark plug would be suspect. If not, then I'd suspect the sparkplug cable or the coil. But, then, I'm pretty naive...
  • 1sthyundai1sthyundai Member Posts: 7
    Can someone please just tell me if the fog lights are supposed to go on with the parking lights only, or do the headlights HAVE to be on in order for the fog lights to work? I don't want to bring this to the dealer if I don't have to.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    On my '03 Sonata, the fog lights only illuminate if the headlights are also on.
  • 1sthyundai1sthyundai Member Posts: 7
    Thank you very much. I appreciate it. At least now I know i'm not crazy.
  • 1sthyundai1sthyundai Member Posts: 7
    In the morning when there is dew on my windsheild, I set the wipers to intermittent but they stay on continueously until the windsheild is clear. I thought this was strange so I tested it today when the windsheild was dry and the intermittent wipers worked perfectly....so I sprayed some of the windsheild cleaner on and the wipers went from intermittent to normal continuous operation and once the windsheild was cleared the wipers went back to intermittent.....is this normal?

    Thanks!
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Please understand that this is a public forum populated by owners who out of the goodness of their nature take the time to respond if they have a suggestion/solution. It is not mandatory that each post receives a reply.
  • 1sthyundai1sthyundai Member Posts: 7
    Sorry, it was just a little frustrating.
  • gharpergharper Member Posts: 3
  • gharpergharper Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 4cyl Sonata, less then 70,000 miles, recently replaced the plugs and wires. The reason I replaced then was because the car just sits and turns over when you try to start it the first three time. After the third attemp it will start. Any ideas on what is causing this?

    Thanks

    GH
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    First thing i would do is Check and or replace the fuel filter,Next Check or have get the fuel pressure regulator,next i would try adding a top brand fuel injector cleaner. next have a mechanic check and adjust the trotle position sensor. That is just about i can think off right now There maybe someone else that will have some more to add
  • gharpergharper Member Posts: 3
    Very much appreciate your suggestions, needless to say I will try this all unless the first thing suggested works. Hopefully it will. I have two Sonata's and this is the first problem with either, one is a 2000 with less then 70,000 the other is a 2004 with 75,000. Both have been great cars.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,602
    On the '05--- fog lights do NOT illuminate when the parking lights are on (1st position). Fog lights DO illuminate with the LOW BEAM headlights (2nd position). Switch to high beams and the fog lights go out. If the engine is turned off while the head lights are on, the low beam lights turn off but the fog lights stay on, until driver's (and possibly other) door is opened. Once the door is opened, the fog lights also turn off. Haven't done this with high beams, but it's logical that high beams will go out when the engine is turned off and since the fogs won't be on, you won't see them turn off.

    I don't have a clue what the story is with the windshield wipers. If the interval setting were changed, that could appear to keep the wipers either going or stopping. Haven't heard of ANY car "smart enough" to know whether or not there was moisture on the windshield. The '05 has a button on the end of the windshield wiper stalk that gives one swipe when pushed. The '03 probably has this also. If so, you might try this to take care of early morning dew.
  • 1sthyundai1sthyundai Member Posts: 7
    Thank you very much! I noticed the button on the end of the stalk, and I appreciate your response. I happened to mention this to someone at work, and she has a maxima she said does the same thing....so i think i'm going to let it go for now and see what happens.
  • 01sonata01sonata Member Posts: 6
    Any insight as to where cylinder two is, the front row or the back row?

    TIA
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    As per engine manual
    Bank number one is the bank closest to the firewall
    Cylinder number on bank one is looking form the front Left side bank one cylinder is 1=3=5
    Bank 2 is the bank closest to the radiator Cylinder numbering is left side looking from the front is Number 2=4=6
    hope you can figure it out
    if you want to post your email address ,i will scan a copy ,and send it to you
  • zlfanaticzlfanatic Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2001 Sonata and got the missfire on number one cylinder, I changed the plugs and it was still there. It turned out to be bad wires which I had to special order from Advance Auto, after the switch all was well and good until I had some tranny problems, thats a diferent post
  • 01sonata01sonata Member Posts: 6
    I think that answers it for me. It is the front-left cylinder. Of course now my engine light is off, but it is still sputtering. I was thinking of taking it to Valoline to have a fuel system cleaning. Are those worth it at all?

    Thanks for you help john_boy.
  • 01sonata01sonata Member Posts: 6
    My wires are relatively new (hade to special order them from Advance as well), so I'd like to think they aren't the problem. Of course my plugs are new too... that would leave the coil (according to the guy at Autozone).
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Without delving too far into the intracacies of the Otto 4-cycle internal combustion process, keep in mind that each cylinder's spark plug "fires" to ignite a fuel-air charge once every other revolution near the top of the compression stroke. However, Hyundai in its infinite wisdom, uses an ignition system that fires each spark plug every time the piston approaches top dead center in its cylinder. This means that during the exhaust stroke, with nothing in the cylinder to burn, the spark plug still dutifully fires nevertheless. This would be of no consequence except we're talking 60,000+ high current volts here - terrific for reliably igniting an air-fuel charge under high compression, but a worthless waste when there's nothing to burn (which is half the time). That kind of voltage takes its toll on affected ignition system parts - faster spark plug erosoion (which takes place at an accelerated rate with the very high voltage and amperage involved), accelerated stress on the spark plug cable insulation, and accelerated breakdown of the coil windings. Most new cars are capable of 100,000 or more miles between tuneups (because their spark plugs only fire during the compression stroke). Hyundai engines are doing good to make it to their nominal 60,000 mile spark plug replacements - even with the factory installed platinum tipped spark plugs. So why did Hyundai go against established practice with their ignition system? I have absolutely no idea. (a provision of the Hyundai dealership tech's widows and orphans retirement and education fund program?)
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    Oh!! Professor .. you forgot to wipe the blackboard clean,Boy quite a session. This message also reminded me of the olden days,when i used to see what i would call tires kicker these guys would kick the tires while mentioning their great vocabulary in motor mechanical repairs,but as far as really doing the repairs ,they were completely useless,So keep your learning program to a minimum,just dont get in the Hyundai Company`s engineering branch ,as they are doing quite well,They as far as my experience in driving different model of other companies I say Hyundai are the best to date,Never had any problem with my 2000Hyundai till it reached over 120.000 miles it all depend on the drivers ,That is my way of thinking :):):)
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Why the blatant personal criticism implying I'm "completely useless"? You chose to read my post, you weren't forced, nor was my response directed specifically to you.
  • hd317hd317 Member Posts: 4
    I got fault code no. # 705 and 720 in my sonata 2000. I did replaced input sensor last month as i got code no. 715. It was running fine and suddenly i got code no. 705 and 720. So i did replaced out put sensors. I tried to replace transaxle range switch and while replacing i heard some noise, feel like something fall. I put it back without replacing range switch but when i put the car in reverse gear it sound loud and rough. I think something is wrong in range switch. Pl. guide me how to replace range switch? Thanxs.
  • spygirl09spygirl09 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Today I inherited my stepdad's 2000 Sonata (58,800 miles) and I love driving it, but I've noticed that when I brake, the car seems to buck as I decelerate, accompanied by a soft rhythmic whirring that matches the bucking. Don't know if that makes sense. It's not violent jerking or anything, and I don't think it's the brakes b/c I remember test-driving an old Volvo with crazy bucking brakes, and this bucking isn't quite like that was.

    Any ideas? It's not due for an oil change for another month or so, and it hasn't had its 60K tune-up yet. Please don't tell me it's anything horrible . . . this is the nicest car I've ever owned, and I wince at the idea of having to throw thousands of dollars at it right off the bat (my last car was a 1994 Plymouth Voyager, enough said).

    THANKS!
  • john_boyjohn_boy Member Posts: 13
    All i can say about your problem,Is possibly your brake rotter,are warped due to excessive heat from braking.it seem that as you explain that it would be most likely your problems Next would be your Hyundai dealer,They know more about Hyundai the others,You could also remove your rotter go to a brake repair shop and have them checked for warpage
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    First things first - avoid assumptions and just have your brakes professionally checked. The rotors (most likely front) are a definite possibility bordering on probability.
  • spygirl09spygirl09 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot! I'll have them check it out when I take it to get serviced in a couple of weeks.
  • hyundai_hellhyundai_hell Member Posts: 2
    You are far from alone and correct to challenge, I plan to do the same. My 02 LX has the same problem, as do MANY other Hyundai owners. If fact when I was in the service center this morning another customer was there complaining that this was the 3rd time he has had to have his rotors resurfaced on his elantra and even the service clerk told me his Santa Fe had had the same problem. I have seen many other complaints about this same issue on the internet as well, wish I could find that site again. Here is a link to a posting by a fella that doubts it's the rotors at all, but the PADS http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

    Sounds like he knows what he's talking about, but I have had 13 cars, 4 brand new and two of them Sonata's and this is the ONLY time I have had this problem, so I doubt my driving techniques are at fault. Probably either inferior rotors or inferior pads or both.
    Rather than wind up like the fella that has paid for his rotors to be re-surfaced three times if I can't get satisfaction out of Hyundai then I will replace the rotors with non-oem, after market ones and replace the pads with ceramic. Probably be cheaper in the long run
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    The brakes in my 06 Sonata GLS (with about 1800 miles) are kind of soft at times. For example, I was on my way out of a parking garage at work, and when I tried to stop, there just wasn't the amount of bite that I was hoping to get. When I pressed the pedal a little bit more firmly, I could feel it touching the floor, and it still didn't have as much bite as I would have liked. Other times the car seems to stop fine. It seems that the brakes are "slippery" at lower speeds. A hard stop from a higher speed seems ok.

    I noticed some similar issues with my old Elantra as well (and 02 that I traded in for the lease on this 06).

    Are my pads glazed, perhaps? I know it's not overheated rotors because this is happening when the brakes are cold.

    I guess it's time to call up the dealership. I'm not very happy with Hyundai's brake issues, but otherwise I'm enjoying my car for the most part.
  • spaceengspaceeng Member Posts: 1
    I noticed that also. It is the transmission downshifting as you slow down. To verify if this is the case, quickly move the shift lever to the right (as soon as it "bucks") to visibly show the gear you are in on the instrument panel (near speedo) readout. Then move the lever back of course. This downshift actually helps slow down the vehicle. Pretty innovative, but confusing until you know what it is.
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    I've noticed 2 other issues with my 06 GLS (4 cylinder, about 1800 miles), and I wondered if any of you were experiencing the same thing.

    1) The engine occasionally makes a pretty noticeable tapping noise, almost like a diesel (well, maybe not THAT loud, but it's pretty noticeable).

    2) With the weather getting colder (50 or so in the morning) and wetter, the transmission and/or engine seems a little sluggish until the car warms up. Looking at the tach, it doesn't appear anything is slipping. The car just feels "weird". This occurs mainly when I'm accelerating up to 30-40 mph and then I let off the gas a little and cruise for a while. The transmission feels like it's "confused". Maybe I just need to get the dealer to reset something and let it relearn, who knows (or maybe the powertrain will eventually figure things out on its own in this weather).

    I guess I'll have to drive another Sonata in the same weather conditions to verify.

    Other issues I've mentioned on here before -- slightly spongy brakes, noise from the rear when going over speed bumps at a lower speed (either it's brakes or suspension -- maybe the cause of my soft pedal!), and an occasional rattle in the sunroof (that goes away if I open it up or even just vent it).

    I also noticed some vibration in the steering at highway speeds, but it's gotten better over time, and it's certainly not like the vibrations I had here and there in my old Elantra (fixed for the most part by a good local tire shop thankfully).

    Horray for first year issues... not! ;)
  • zlfanaticzlfanatic Member Posts: 18
    I took my wifes 2001 Sonata in to the the dealer last friday for a check engine light, turns out its the catilytic converters that need to be replaced, ready for this, 609.00 for the front and 630.00 for the rear. There has got to be somewhere else I can purchase these, I did find the front for 170.00, but the rear one I can't. Has anyone found these aftermarket. :cry:
  • xenon666xenon666 Member Posts: 15
    This should be covered by the emissions warranty if it has less than 80k miles.

    http://www.hyundaiusa.com/global/warranty/warranty.aspx
  • zlfanaticzlfanatic Member Posts: 18
    It would be covered if we where the original owners, but we bought it used so we only got a 60000 mile warranty and it has 65000 miles on it. :cry:
  • xenon666xenon666 Member Posts: 15
    The original owner disclaimer doesn't apply to the Emissions warranty. I'd try calling a different dealer. It should be covered.
  • aszil10184aszil10184 Member Posts: 1
    after driving for so long, my sonata transmission slips from 4th gear back to 3rd gear and then sticks there. the only way to downshift is to do it manually with the shiftronic; even when you do, it only goes as low as 2nd gear. so overall, once it begins to do this, you it's like you don't have a 1st or 4th gear at all. why is this and what can fix it?
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