The mystery rear noise seems to have gone away in my Sonata, so it might go away in yours after a few more hundred miles. It could have been the brakes wearing in. In my case, people could hear it when sitting in the back. Either way, the dealer will inspect the rear of the car (brakes, suspension, etc) when I take it in Friday morning. They are also going to check out the gas pedal issue, which is definitely not my imagination. It feels more like normal at night or when it's really cool out, but when things heat up (or there is a lot of sunlight), the buzzy feeling comes back. It also seems to vary, feeling a bit better after I've been on the highway for a little while. It was worse this past weekend when the weather was hot and muggy. I still have yet to check out another Sonata, but I still swear I didn't feel it when test driving mine. What in the engine compartment could be transmitting vibration based on temperature?
Hope someone can help me with this. Recently my 2000 Sonata with 85k miles had the check engine light go on and stay on. No obvious changes in running that I can detect. An auto parts store hooked up to the car's computer and got a code P1154 "fuel air metering". Is this a quick fix? An air filter perhaps? Any info/tips would be appreciated. Thank you kindly, John
You might want to log onto and register (free) at http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/default.asp and peruse the online 2000 Sonata Shop Manual in the V6 section for various causes of the P1154 fault code. At least you'd have some idea where to go from there. Fault codes give the techs a starting point - it still often takes good ol' fashioned diagnostic savy to get to the heart of a particular problem.
(How many miles since the last air filter change? If it's been more than 20,000 miles, I'd start there just as a matter of course. The Purolator Premium Plus equivalent for the Hyundai air filter is stock #: A25373. You do not need to use tools to make the change. The air filter box lid is attached to the body by four spring steel clips at the corners [one is hidden from view] that you can flip just with thumb pressure. Look for a large black plastic box behind the battery - it's kinda hard to miss. )
I noticed that with today's slightly cooler weather (mid 70s), the gas pedal in my 06 Sonata felt fine during acceleration, but the pitter patter noise at the rear (during braking when going over speed bumps and also for a few seconds after coming to a stop) has come back. So, maybe the two minor issues are related (could it be an exhaust issue?). I'm sure the service department will be scratching their heads at this one when I bring it in Friday morning!
Good luck Friday. I'd suggest you try to have a service person take a ride to hear the noise you are talking about. I don't know what you mean by "pitter patter" and the service peole might not either.
Years ago, I read a humorous story of how people tried to describe sounds their cars were making. It ended by suggesting YOU drive your car with a service person and let them hear what you are hearing, based on how you drive. (Some of the descriptions or attempts to mimick the sound were quite funny.)
Hope it all gets fixed to your satisfaction Friday.
We purchased our new 06 Sonata about three weeks ago and we are hearing something similar to what you are hearing. When we back our of our garage we have a small grade to backdown and we are hearing a little grinding noise when the brakes are applied. Also similar to yours is the noise we hear when going gently over speed bumps. Will probably have it looked into at the dealership if it continues.
Well, with my '01 Sonata, we decided to take it to a different Hyundai shop instead of to a local guy. Someone on here gave some good advice about that. I am just sick of the other dealer not helping me. We are having the fluid in the transmission replaced tomorrow. It took me a week to get an appt. with them. They want to scan it for 90.00. It is 119.00 to do the fluid change. I am putting the money into the fluid change first. I will drive it awhile and see if it makes any difference. I can still go back to the local guy for a 40.00 scan job, if i think it still has problems it. I just want to get in my car turn the key and know I can get where I am going and back home without needing to be towed.
I just replied to your post in the main board. You referred to the accelerator cable in this post in this board. Just wanted to let you know that there is no cable. The throttle is an electronic, "drive-by-wire" design.
Nice to see that you're also in OH. I'm ~2 hours SW in Cincy.
John, your error message is probably related to a malfunctioning O2 (oxygen sensor) - you could probably continue to drive the car for a long time without damaging anything. However, should you desire to keep the car for a while and avoid potentially expensive repairs, you can have this changed - I think that it cost me $120-$150 USD - it happened around 82k miles (2000 Sonanta GLS) - hope this helps
Hi everyone - I have a 2000 Sonata GLS with the combination CD /tape deck/radio. For whatever reason, my radio turns on and off at will - irrespective of whether I'm sitting at idle or driving. I get "error 2 or error 3" on the radio sometimes, but then it seems to work fine. It also alternates sometimes between radio and CD even though I'm not inserting a CD into the player. I tried unplugging the battery to "Reset" the radio, but this did not work wonders (unfortunately) - does anyone have any suggestions, or have you experienced similar problems?? The car currently has 86k miles
I have a '03 Sonata and I have lost the remote somewhere over the course of my work day which I drive and make deliveries so there is no telling where I lost it. My question is "does anyone know if there is a kill switch for the alarm so I can start my car and drive it w/ out having the remote?"
Look on page 1-8 of your 2003 Sonata owner's manual for information on disarming the anti-theft system without the remote keyfob transmitter. What happened to your second remote keyfob transmitter?
The service advisor I talked to said there is still a cable in the system that might be transmitting a vibration into the pedal during acceleration. Like I said in the main 06 Sonata board, I'll drive another GL and see if I can duplicate the issue. It could be something else under the hood that needs adjustment, who knows?
I took some friends down to the Cincy area the day after I got the car, actually. Jungle Jim's was calling our name
Jungle Jim's is just North of the dealership where I bought my car! If you've already driven down here and back, you probably have more miles than I do so I don't know how many miles your dealer wants you to have before they check out your noise. Have they told you about campaign 920? It is a psuedo-recall that doesn't involve any letters to customers and pertains to the headliner assembly adhesive. Only certain VINs are affected and, of course, mine is one of them. Apparently, the rear edge of the headliner may not be attached to the roof correctly. I think mine is not because I can push it up slightly and hear an adhesive sticking as I release it. I haven't seen the work that's involved yet, but I really don't want anyone tearing in to my headliner, or anything else for that matter.
I don't know about the service advisor's claim that there is still a cable in the system... Maybe on the '05s? I'll look at mine again, but I sure didn't see a cable the first time I looked, either under the hood or under the dash.
You did the battery cycle on the radio. That should clear up some radio computer glitches or even software glitches. Make sure you have the radio unplugged for at least 2-3 minutes for the voltage fully discharged inside the radio before plugging it back to the vehicle wire harness. That way you ensure the radio computer is actually dead and will be resetted properly.
If that does not help, then you may likely have hardware problem. Since the radio turns on/off randomly without your action, the likely cause could be:
1. Intermitten POWER switch (Knob or momentary switch): it randomly makes contact. 2. Bad interconnection between the Switch Board and the Main radio board. Or even bad solder joints as in old radios 3. Bad computer (IC that controls the radio) 4. Bad switch pad 5. Pinched wire external to radio (less likely) 6. Near short on the circuit board due to moisture built up inside radio
The intermitten problem happens all the time and more for aging products. Unfortunately, for you to fix this problem yourself, you likely have to look inside the radio to find out.
Just as an FYI, the rear wheel bearings on my '99 Sonata GLS V6 had to be replaced at 50,000 miles and several different oxygen sensors have gone bad and been replaced. The last time an oxygen sensor was replaced, the mechanic also did a carbon injection cleaning, which seemed to have no effect at all. A minor problem is some sort of loose connection in the driver's side wires, resulting in either no output or loud static from the radio on that side and intermittent problems with the automatic door lock. The car feels like a lemon lately.
The new problem started as a revving of the engine and then a strong clunking into gear when accelerating at around 15-30 mph. I took it in and the mechanic said the second gear was nearly shot and the transmission would have to be replaced for $2500. I didn't have that kind of money, so I kept driving it until lately the clunking has been happening on the highway at 55-60mph. That scared me into taking it to AAMCO. The technician there hooked it up to the diagnostic machine and found a problem with the output speed sensor, which he said he'd replace for $250. According to him, unless I've damaged the transmission by driving it for too long after the problem started, after he replaces this one sensor, the car should be fine. Has anyone else had this sensor replaced? Could it possibly be such a simple fix?
I want to second the opinion that you fix the O2 sensor if it is indeed malfunctioning. A dead O2 sensor can cause the car to run rich, smell like rotting eggs, and will soon overheat and destroy the internals of your catalytic converter if left unfixed.
You might try having a free charging system test done at AutoZone or a similar location. Weird battery output can cause sensitive electronics to behave really weird. Also, checking the power leads on the radio (especially the ground) would be a good idea as well. A poor or failing ground can cause any number of radio problems and is DEFINITELY a leading cause of intermittent turn offs/ turn ons.
I have a 2004 XLS, absolutely love the car, however, in the last few weeks the driver side door is getting harder and harder to close. It acts as if there is something "stuck" in the door preventing it from shutting. I may have to try 3 times to finally get the door to close. Of course, I have looked and nothing is in the door! Any suggestions.....
"I'll keep in mind your suggestion about taking a drive to make sure the engine is fully warmed up (although it seems to run at normal operating temperature [warmed up], according to temp gauge, since I haven't had the car in the cold weather) Your point about condensation is well taken. Went through a copple muffles before their time with the previous car, probably due to condensation."
Hope you found this continuation of our little discussion - my tips about maintenance and operation were getting a little too far off-topic in the MPG discussion. When the temperature gauge first reads normal, that really only refers to the coolant temperature level in the cylinder heads - any engine's hottest point since that's where the engine makes fire. The temperature of the motor oil in the sump is still quite cool since it's subject to ambient temperature airflow from the bottom of the car - the coolest point around the engine. Figure it'll take the oil sump temperature about twice as long to reach operating temperature as it took the coolant to do the same - maybe a little longer in really cold climates. Your point about mufflers is well taken. The good news about exhaust systems these days is that, except for the cast iron exhaust manifolds, they're stainless steel - very corrosion resistant. The exhaust manifolds are sufficiently thick that they rarely cause trouble unless poorly designed or overheated by abusively hard driving.
Check again for something stuck around one of the hinges and/or in the stop that holds the door open on inclines. While you're at it, lube the hinges and the articulated stop with a little clean motor oil or spray WD40. If that doesn't help, you may need the help of a professional unless you're prepared to take on the task of removing the inner pannel to check things out from inside the door.
You didn't mention which engine or which model year Sonata. In general though, figure about $75.00 and up for a new replacement - anyone's guess what a used one would cost at a salvage yard. As to whether you can do it yourself, the answer hinges on A> how adept you are with basic repair/maintenance procedures and whether you have access to the necessary tools, and B> whether there's a subframe crossmember directly below the pan that might require loosening the engine-transmission assembly from its mounts and lifting it slightly for clearance. I have an '03 Sonata with the 2.7L V-6. From what I've seen flat on my back when I change the oil, it looks like a cakewalk* if I had to remove either or both pieces of the two-piece oil pan (a pressed steel pan bolted to a cast aluminum upper pan extension in turn bolted to the aluminum engine block).
*Things aren't always as they appear so I hope I'm never in your predicament.
I checked again and found nothing around the hinges or the stop, HOWEVER, I did notice that in the door jam where the door handle operates there should be 3 screws. I only have one and it was working its way out. 2 more screws and tightning the one in place solved the problem. I do not recall losing any screws over the last year, but anything is possible.
My AC knob rod broke on the "heat" position even when the AC is on it blows hot air. Is there anyway to disconnect the heater altogether without taking the dash apart? We live in FL and the heater is not necessary. I tried to take the dash apart, but was quickly overwhelmed, I don't know how to get the dash apart, it's not as obvious as it should be. I removed a bunch of screws, but it won't budge. Any help would be appreciated. This is a 2000 Sonata.
rhaeffele, my name is scott and I am having a simular problem as dliddle, I have 1997 sonata and i don't have the door clicker and the alarm has gone off when I was removing some fuses. I don't have the original owner's manual. this car is used but new to me. we pulled a fuse in the engine compartment for the ignition to prevent a teenager from driving while grounded and the alarm went off.Do you know of a way to bypass or stop the alarm so we can start the car? Any info would be a great help.we don'thave a sonata dealer near by.I posted a message on #4682 and I am new to the website .....thanks .....scott
I left a previous message for help with my sonata.the alarm has sounded do to removing fuse in engine compartment...any help would be greatly apprecieated.or advise on were to look,thanks scott
Sorry, hep, I have no knowledge of the eccentricities and complexities of Hyundai's antitheft-alarm system on your model year car. But, I do have the 2003 owner's manual and its guide how to shut the #@%&ing thing off if the keyfob transmitter won't disarm the system. Might be worth a try?
"Only the transmitter can disarm the armed stage. If the transmitter does not disarm the system, it is necessary to take the following steps:
1. Unlock the door with the key, which will cause the alarm to be activated. 2. Insert the key in the ignition key cylinder and turn the ignition key to "ON" position. 3. Wait for 30 seconds.
After completing the steps above, the system will be disarmed."
Remember, this is for the '03 Sonatas, so it may not work for your '97 Sonata. But trying it is unlikely to hurt anything either. Any Hyundai dealer can order you a '97 Sonata owner's manual. While I don't know what the price would be, I suspect somewhere around $35.00. Unfortunately I've found no online version of Hyundai owner's manuals on Hyundai WebTech. A Hyundai dealer can also get you a replacement keyfob transmitter and program its code to your car. Aggravating, but probably worth doing. (Sonatas don't seem to be targeted for theft, but that by no means assures that some 15 yr old myopic moron looking to make his bones for gang affiliation wouldn't mistake yours for a Honda . . .)
Well, I no longer own my '01 Hyundai Sonata Money Pit. We had the fluid changed, and oh my, It really proved how bad the transmission was becoming.It was not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th or back down, even when we manually placed the shifter into 3rd. The airbag light was on, it was the grid in the passenger seat. I needed 4 tires, the window reg. was going on the rear passenger door, the swaying in the back on bumps was going to be the next thing we fixed, and I was feeling something wrong with the steering column/front right tire and pothole connection. The crank blade was vibrating at higher rpm's(my buzzing bees noise). The dash lights were half on and half out. We were through. I gave it a kiss and a pat when I left the lot, in my new/used '04 Ford Freestar. I am a Van Mom after holding out all these years in my Hyundais.
I feel like someone died. I will admire the Sonata from a distance.
Any ideas what could be going on? I've got a 4-cyl 2000 Hyundai Sonata with 75,000 miles doing some strange things. First, in the morning when I start it up and put it into drive, it occasionally will not immediately accelerate when I hit the gas, instead waiting about a second and then jumping forward to catch up to the gas pedal. This only happens the first time I start the car each day, and only happens the first one or two times that I hit the gas - the acceleration seems fine for the rest of the drive.
This first problem led me to get the car looked at. The O2 sensors, spark plug wires, and spark plug cylinders were all replaced. This fixed the problem for about two weeks until it came back around. At this point, I replaced the mass air flow sensor with a used one and the problem went away. This happened two months ago, but I think the problem might be back.
When the spark plug cylinders were replaced, the mechanic said that the vehicle was also experiencing a second problem, potentially more serious than the acceleration: sporadic massive power shortages of which he couldn't find the source. Since the car seemed to be working fine (and the check engine light went out) after the mass air flow sensor was replaced, I figured this problem was fixed too.
However, I think that the power problem is back. The check engine light turned on last week but turned off earlier this week of its own accord. More tellingly, every once in a while while I'm driving, it seems as if the engine stops and then starts again after a split second. If I am stopped at a light when this happens, the car might stall or it might just shudder a bit until the engine kicks back in. If this happens on the highway, the car acts as if power to the engine has been cut for a split second, with the effect being that it feels as if someone hit the brakes and then immediately hit the accelerator.
like the other poster to your question replied, it matters if something is in the way. on my 1994 camrys, I had to get one pan resealed (leaked) and the muffler was in the way. I had it done 3x and it still leaked. It was not done at the dealer but after markets. I should have gotten a new pan (not warped although they do bang it out but...) and that would have made it easier. If the sonatas are like hondas and have a gasket, no problem. If the pan is held on and sealed with that RTV sealant, good luck. The third try above was done with a cork gasket cause the RTV sealant on a used or removed oil pan was leaking ever so slightly to piss me off (garage drip). Good luck but if nothing is in the way and it's a gasket like the transmissions usually are, piece of cake.
I have the same issue with a 2002 Sonata, but I just changed my air filter 500 miles ago. However, I did just use a powerful fuel injector/system cleaner. I was wondering if that could have incited the 'fuel air metering' (P1154 Code) signal.
"I did just use a powerful fuel injector/system cleaner. I was wondering if that could have incited the 'fuel air metering' (P1154 Code) signal."
Dunno. Did you squirt that stuff into the air intake? If enough liquid got to the mass airflow sensor near the throttle body, no tellin' what kinda mischief could've resulted. And then again, there might not be any damage now that the stuff's evaporated. Maybe you just need to have the code wiped, now. Your dealer can do that with his "High Scan" tool. Sorry to be so vague, but this computerized emissions and engine control stuff is pretty much Greek to me, too.
"If the pan is held on and sealed with that RTV sealant, good luck."
I'm pretty sure Hyundai seals the oil pan with RTV sealant on late model Sonata engines. One problem area with the goop is that people will run a bead on the pan mounting flange and then immediately position the pan and screw the attaching bolts in. The sealant needs a few minutes to partially setup - no more than about 15 minutes, semi-firm, but still tacky - before mounting the pan. Also pan and engine mounting surfaces have to be clean and dry for a proper bond. It's also important not to let the bond break at any point once the pan is positioned. If it does, it's a no-go for seal integrity. Doing the job right without a helper is an practical exercise in frustration and anger management.
thanks rhaeffele, we don't have the key for the driver's side door and the key barely fits the passenger side door.It looks like the car may have been re-keyed at some time.the door key is different from they ignition key.all these problems came from removing a fuse in the engine compartment.I am wondering if there is a way to bypass the alarm.. we do not have the original owners manual....does any one have a owners manual for a 1997 hyundai sonata???????any other help would be greatly appreciated.we would like to get around it if poissible with out buying the owners manual. but that is what I'll have to do,,,,thank you though
Having someone scan the vehicle for codes (AutoZone, PepBoys, etc.....even the dealer if need be) would definitely help us guess and opint you in the right direction. Loss of power could be anything ranging from a failing distributor to a dying fuel pump or even plugged catalytic converter. Check for codes, esp since you got a Check Engine light, and let us all know
To anyone who may be able to offer some troubleshooting advice, prior to me having an outragious maintenance bill at my "friendly" Hyundai Dealer. I own a 2001 Sonata GLS V-6, 81000 miles. Just two days ago my car radio wants to play even though I don't turn it on; yes, it comes on by itself. I have never heard of any problems like this and don't recall seeing anything similar in the forum. Can anyone please HELP!!! Thanks, Tom
Im new to this forum and unfortunately I didn't mean to reply to your message. This is the only way I could figure out how to post. I own a 2005 Sonata (4 cyl). I purchased it back in November 2004. Last week I took it in for it's 22,000 maintenance at my local Hyundai dealer. Four days later on my way home from work smoke was coming out of my car and I could smell burning. All of a sudden my oil light came on. I pulled over and that's when I noticed that oil had been leaking. I had to get it towed to the dealership (by the way the Hyundai Roadside Service kept me on hold FOREVER...so I had to call AAA instead!). To make a long story short, the dealership has told me that the engine needs to be replaced. They are ordering a new one. In the mean time, the bad engine is being tested to determine exactly why it failed (obviously the leaking oil was a factor!). The dealership provided me a loaner and I probably won't get the Sonata back for two weeks. They've assured me that this is under warranty. Have any of you experienced a problem like this. Im concerned because this is a fairly new vehicle. Anyway, after this is all said and done, I will never buy another Sonata again! (I used to own a Santa Fe......)
While not impossible, a severe oil leak that destroys an engine at 22,000 miles is unusual. But before you pass judgment on the manufacturer, that oil leak could just as well be the dealer's fault as Hyundai's. One of new car dealerships' dirty little secrets is that dumb mistakes do happen at the service department level, too (such as forgetting to properly tighten the oil filter or cross-threading the oil pan plug). There've been documented cases of forgetting to put oil back into the engine - and the engines'll run for some time before they seize (although the oil pressure light would come on immediately unless the wire to the oil pressure sending unit near the oil filter was inadvertently knocked off its connector - literally a "comedy" of errors). The guys who actually do the oil changes aren't necessarily the dealer's best mechanics either - they may also push brooms, empty trash cans, wash cars, and shampoo interiors. The bad news is these days it's impossible, or nearly so, to be allowed to observe the birds who're servicing your car.
I also have one of these cars (must be the twin) same problem they changed my sensor now they want to change the mass air flow 780.00$ in Canada.What intriges me the most is that from time to time the check engine light turn off ( when i'm doing long distance with the cruise control on and on flat surface) But i must admit i did not think of the gaz pump. It gives me code PO171 at the dealer (too lean) and PO171B at my regular garage. If you find the problem please let me know how it works out on your side i will do the same. Thank you
I have a Nissan 2000 and added to a fuel cleaner to the gas tank. After a couple of hundred miles the MIL lap (Check Engine Soon) Light came on. Hooked a OBDII meter and it gave code ("Water in fuel/intake valve") or something similar. Clearer the light and it came back on again after a couple of miles.
I'm gonna let it go away whenever it wants to and keep checking for the code.
I just purchased a2006 Sonata LX with beige leather and it has a "funny" smell. When I read a review of the car it mentioned the smell also. I've had the car for three weeks and the smell has gotten less. I spray Febreeze on the carpets every few days and that helps. I also leave the windows open whenever possible.
Hi: Had the exact same problem with my 2000 Sonata DL. 4 engine.About a month ago ,my transmission started to not shift properly, Mostly when the car was using cruise control,But the engine would run perfectly without any hesitation just that the transmission when it would upshift or downshift it would vibrate and studder before it would eventually shift, One day got in to go to town ,so started the engine started real good put the car in 4Th gear and went to take off after driving for about 5 miles while going up a small hill the engine started to hesitate and eventually stopped,so restarted the engine it started very good went to take off ,but the engine would loose power, so i tried to take off again ,but the car would only move by depressing the gas pedal very slightly so then i would do manual shifting ,yesterday had an appointment at the Hyundai dealer to get ECM reprogramed, so this is what the had to replace (1) all the spark plugs,(2) number one ignition coil ,(3) reprogramed to ECM .Price for all this was the ignition coil at $195.00,Spark plugs at $20.00 each for a total of $ 80.00 ,Reprogramed was $ 35.00 ,and total cost of everything including labor, was $495.89,But my car run now like a new car . This is for information to whoever had the same thing happen to them any one who are having problems wiyth Hyundai should go for repair at the dealer only
I wasn't doubting you, john_boy - just aghast at what the stealerships are getting away with. Even considering the Canuck buck, that still works out to roughly $12.00+ U.S. Discount auto parts chains sell NGK platinum spark plugs for around $6.00 U.S. each - and they're making money on 'em at that price.
Comments
Does your buzz coincide with A/C compressor operation?
(How many miles since the last air filter change? If it's been more than 20,000 miles, I'd start there just as a matter of course. The Purolator Premium Plus equivalent for the Hyundai air filter is stock #: A25373. You do not need to use tools to make the change. The air filter box lid is attached to the body by four spring steel clips at the corners [one is hidden from view] that you can flip just with thumb pressure. Look for a large black plastic box behind the battery - it's kinda hard to miss.
Years ago, I read a humorous story of how people tried to describe sounds their cars were making. It ended by suggesting YOU drive your car with a service person and let them hear what you are hearing, based on how you drive. (Some of the descriptions or attempts to mimick the sound were quite funny.)
Hope it all gets fixed to your satisfaction Friday.
I just want to get in my car turn the key and know I can get where I am going and back home without needing to be towed.
I just replied to your post in the main board. You referred to the accelerator cable in this post in this board. Just wanted to let you know that there is no cable. The throttle is an electronic, "drive-by-wire" design.
Nice to see that you're also in OH. I'm ~2 hours SW in Cincy.
I took some friends down to the Cincy area the day after I got the car, actually. Jungle Jim's was calling our name
I don't know about the service advisor's claim that there is still a cable in the system... Maybe on the '05s? I'll look at mine again, but I sure didn't see a cable the first time I looked, either under the hood or under the dash.
You did the battery cycle on the radio. That should clear up some radio computer glitches or even software glitches. Make sure you have the radio unplugged for at least 2-3 minutes for the voltage fully discharged inside the radio before plugging it back to the vehicle wire harness. That way you ensure the radio computer is actually dead and will be resetted properly.
If that does not help, then you may likely have hardware problem. Since the radio turns on/off randomly without your action, the likely cause could be:
1. Intermitten POWER switch (Knob or momentary switch): it randomly makes contact.
2. Bad interconnection between the Switch Board and the Main radio board. Or even bad solder joints as in old radios
3. Bad computer (IC that controls the radio)
4. Bad switch pad
5. Pinched wire external to radio (less likely)
6. Near short on the circuit board due to moisture built up inside radio
The intermitten problem happens all the time and more for aging products. Unfortunately, for you to fix this problem yourself, you likely have to look inside the radio to find out.
Good Luck
JT
The new problem started as a revving of the engine and then a strong clunking into gear when accelerating at around 15-30 mph. I took it in and the mechanic said the second gear was nearly shot and the transmission would have to be replaced for $2500. I didn't have that kind of money, so I kept driving it until lately the clunking has been happening on the highway at 55-60mph. That scared me into taking it to AAMCO. The technician there hooked it up to the diagnostic machine and found a problem with the output speed sensor, which he said he'd replace for $250. According to him, unless I've damaged the transmission by driving it for too long after the problem started, after he replaces this one sensor, the car should be fine. Has anyone else had this sensor replaced? Could it possibly be such a simple fix?
good luck
You might try having a free charging system test done at AutoZone or a similar location. Weird battery output can cause sensitive electronics to behave really weird. Also, checking the power leads on the radio (especially the ground) would be a good idea as well. A poor or failing ground can cause any number of radio problems and is DEFINITELY a leading cause of intermittent turn offs/ turn ons.
The other suggestions are excellent ones as well.
keep us posted
Hope you found this continuation of our little discussion - my tips about maintenance and operation were getting a little too far off-topic in the MPG discussion. When the temperature gauge first reads normal, that really only refers to the coolant temperature level in the cylinder heads - any engine's hottest point since that's where the engine makes fire. The temperature of the motor oil in the sump is still quite cool since it's subject to ambient temperature airflow from the bottom of the car - the coolest point around the engine. Figure it'll take the oil sump temperature about twice as long to reach operating temperature as it took the coolant to do the same - maybe a little longer in really cold climates. Your point about mufflers is well taken. The good news about exhaust systems these days is that, except for the cast iron exhaust manifolds, they're stainless steel - very corrosion resistant. The exhaust manifolds are sufficiently thick that they rarely cause trouble unless poorly designed or overheated by abusively hard driving.
*Things aren't always as they appear so I hope I'm never in your predicament.
"Only the transmitter can disarm the armed stage. If the transmitter does not disarm the system, it is necessary to take the following steps:
1. Unlock the door with the key, which will cause the alarm to be activated.
2. Insert the key in the ignition key cylinder and turn the ignition key to "ON" position.
3. Wait for 30 seconds.
After completing the steps above, the system will be disarmed."
Remember, this is for the '03 Sonatas, so it may not work for your '97 Sonata. But trying it is unlikely to hurt anything either. Any Hyundai dealer can order you a '97 Sonata owner's manual. While I don't know what the price would be, I suspect somewhere around $35.00. Unfortunately I've found no online version of Hyundai owner's manuals on Hyundai WebTech. A Hyundai dealer can also get you a replacement keyfob transmitter and program its code to your car. Aggravating, but probably worth doing. (Sonatas don't seem to be targeted for theft, but that by no means assures that some 15 yr old myopic moron looking to make his bones for gang affiliation wouldn't mistake yours for a Honda . . .)
We were through. I gave it a kiss and a pat when I left the lot, in my new/used '04 Ford Freestar. I am a Van Mom after holding out all these years in my Hyundais.
I feel like someone died. I will admire the Sonata from a distance.
May you all be safe and trouble free. Lunchmom
Any ideas what could be going on? I've got a 4-cyl 2000 Hyundai Sonata with 75,000 miles doing some strange things. First, in the morning when I start it up and put it into drive, it occasionally will not immediately accelerate when I hit the gas, instead waiting about a second and then jumping forward to catch up to the gas pedal. This only happens the first time I start the car each day, and only happens the first one or two times that I hit the gas - the acceleration seems fine for the rest of the drive.
This first problem led me to get the car looked at. The O2 sensors, spark plug wires, and spark plug cylinders were all replaced. This fixed the problem for about two weeks until it came back around. At this point, I replaced the mass air flow sensor with a used one and the problem went away. This happened two months ago, but I think the problem might be back.
When the spark plug cylinders were replaced, the mechanic said that the vehicle was also experiencing a second problem, potentially more serious than the acceleration: sporadic massive power shortages of which he couldn't find the source. Since the car seemed to be working fine (and the check engine light went out) after the mass air flow sensor was replaced, I figured this problem was fixed too.
However, I think that the power problem is back. The check engine light turned on last week but turned off earlier this week of its own accord. More tellingly, every once in a while while I'm driving, it seems as if the engine stops and then starts again after a split second. If I am stopped at a light when this happens, the car might stall or it might just shudder a bit until the engine kicks back in. If this happens on the highway, the car acts as if power to the engine has been cut for a split second, with the effect being that it feels as if someone hit the brakes and then immediately hit the accelerator.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Dunno. Did you squirt that stuff into the air intake? If enough liquid got to the mass airflow sensor near the throttle body, no tellin' what kinda mischief could've resulted. And then again, there might not be any damage now that the stuff's evaporated. Maybe you just need to have the code wiped, now. Your dealer can do that with his "High Scan" tool. Sorry to be so vague, but this computerized emissions and engine control stuff is pretty much Greek to me, too.
I'm pretty sure Hyundai seals the oil pan with RTV sealant on late model Sonata engines. One problem area with the goop is that people will run a bead on the pan mounting flange and then immediately position the pan and screw the attaching bolts in. The sealant needs a few minutes to partially setup - no more than about 15 minutes, semi-firm, but still tacky - before mounting the pan. Also pan and engine mounting surfaces have to be clean and dry for a proper bond. It's also important not to let the bond break at any point once the pan is positioned. If it does, it's a no-go for seal integrity. Doing the job right without a helper is an practical exercise in frustration and anger management.
good luck.
I own a 2005 Sonata (4 cyl). I purchased it back in November 2004. Last week I took it in for it's 22,000 maintenance at my local Hyundai dealer. Four days later on my way home from work smoke was coming out of my car and I could smell burning. All of a sudden my oil light came on. I pulled over and that's when I noticed that oil had been leaking. I had to get it towed to the dealership (by the way the Hyundai Roadside Service kept me on hold FOREVER...so I had to call AAA instead!). To make a long story short, the dealership has told me that the engine needs to be replaced. They are ordering a new one. In the mean time, the bad engine is being tested to determine exactly why it failed (obviously the leaking oil was a factor!). The dealership provided me a loaner and I probably won't get the Sonata back for two weeks. They've assured me that this is under warranty. Have any of you experienced a problem like this. Im concerned because this is a fairly new vehicle. Anyway, after this is all said and done, I will never buy another Sonata again! (I used to own a Santa Fe......)
I also have one of these cars (must be the twin) same problem they changed my sensor now they want to change the mass air flow 780.00$ in Canada.What intriges me the most is that from time to time the check engine light turn off ( when i'm doing long distance with the cruise control on and on flat surface) But i must admit i did not think of the gaz pump. It gives me code PO171 at the dealer (too lean) and PO171B at my regular garage. If you find the problem please let me know how it works out on your side i will do the same. Thank you
Ben
I'm gonna let it go away whenever it wants to and keep checking for the code.
Barry S.