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Comments
Does your buzz coincide with A/C compressor operation?
(How many miles since the last air filter change? If it's been more than 20,000 miles, I'd start there just as a matter of course. The Purolator Premium Plus equivalent for the Hyundai air filter is stock #: A25373. You do not need to use tools to make the change. The air filter box lid is attached to the body by four spring steel clips at the corners [one is hidden from view] that you can flip just with thumb pressure. Look for a large black plastic box behind the battery - it's kinda hard to miss.
Years ago, I read a humorous story of how people tried to describe sounds their cars were making. It ended by suggesting YOU drive your car with a service person and let them hear what you are hearing, based on how you drive. (Some of the descriptions or attempts to mimick the sound were quite funny.)
Hope it all gets fixed to your satisfaction Friday.
I just want to get in my car turn the key and know I can get where I am going and back home without needing to be towed.
I just replied to your post in the main board. You referred to the accelerator cable in this post in this board. Just wanted to let you know that there is no cable. The throttle is an electronic, "drive-by-wire" design.
Nice to see that you're also in OH. I'm ~2 hours SW in Cincy.
I took some friends down to the Cincy area the day after I got the car, actually. Jungle Jim's was calling our name
I don't know about the service advisor's claim that there is still a cable in the system... Maybe on the '05s? I'll look at mine again, but I sure didn't see a cable the first time I looked, either under the hood or under the dash.
You did the battery cycle on the radio. That should clear up some radio computer glitches or even software glitches. Make sure you have the radio unplugged for at least 2-3 minutes for the voltage fully discharged inside the radio before plugging it back to the vehicle wire harness. That way you ensure the radio computer is actually dead and will be resetted properly.
If that does not help, then you may likely have hardware problem. Since the radio turns on/off randomly without your action, the likely cause could be:
1. Intermitten POWER switch (Knob or momentary switch): it randomly makes contact.
2. Bad interconnection between the Switch Board and the Main radio board. Or even bad solder joints as in old radios
3. Bad computer (IC that controls the radio)
4. Bad switch pad
5. Pinched wire external to radio (less likely)
6. Near short on the circuit board due to moisture built up inside radio
The intermitten problem happens all the time and more for aging products. Unfortunately, for you to fix this problem yourself, you likely have to look inside the radio to find out.
Good Luck
JT
The new problem started as a revving of the engine and then a strong clunking into gear when accelerating at around 15-30 mph. I took it in and the mechanic said the second gear was nearly shot and the transmission would have to be replaced for $2500. I didn't have that kind of money, so I kept driving it until lately the clunking has been happening on the highway at 55-60mph. That scared me into taking it to AAMCO. The technician there hooked it up to the diagnostic machine and found a problem with the output speed sensor, which he said he'd replace for $250. According to him, unless I've damaged the transmission by driving it for too long after the problem started, after he replaces this one sensor, the car should be fine. Has anyone else had this sensor replaced? Could it possibly be such a simple fix?
good luck
You might try having a free charging system test done at AutoZone or a similar location. Weird battery output can cause sensitive electronics to behave really weird. Also, checking the power leads on the radio (especially the ground) would be a good idea as well. A poor or failing ground can cause any number of radio problems and is DEFINITELY a leading cause of intermittent turn offs/ turn ons.
The other suggestions are excellent ones as well.
keep us posted
Hope you found this continuation of our little discussion - my tips about maintenance and operation were getting a little too far off-topic in the MPG discussion. When the temperature gauge first reads normal, that really only refers to the coolant temperature level in the cylinder heads - any engine's hottest point since that's where the engine makes fire. The temperature of the motor oil in the sump is still quite cool since it's subject to ambient temperature airflow from the bottom of the car - the coolest point around the engine. Figure it'll take the oil sump temperature about twice as long to reach operating temperature as it took the coolant to do the same - maybe a little longer in really cold climates. Your point about mufflers is well taken. The good news about exhaust systems these days is that, except for the cast iron exhaust manifolds, they're stainless steel - very corrosion resistant. The exhaust manifolds are sufficiently thick that they rarely cause trouble unless poorly designed or overheated by abusively hard driving.
*Things aren't always as they appear so I hope I'm never in your predicament.
"Only the transmitter can disarm the armed stage. If the transmitter does not disarm the system, it is necessary to take the following steps:
1. Unlock the door with the key, which will cause the alarm to be activated.
2. Insert the key in the ignition key cylinder and turn the ignition key to "ON" position.
3. Wait for 30 seconds.
After completing the steps above, the system will be disarmed."
Remember, this is for the '03 Sonatas, so it may not work for your '97 Sonata. But trying it is unlikely to hurt anything either. Any Hyundai dealer can order you a '97 Sonata owner's manual. While I don't know what the price would be, I suspect somewhere around $35.00. Unfortunately I've found no online version of Hyundai owner's manuals on Hyundai WebTech. A Hyundai dealer can also get you a replacement keyfob transmitter and program its code to your car. Aggravating, but probably worth doing. (Sonatas don't seem to be targeted for theft, but that by no means assures that some 15 yr old myopic moron looking to make his bones for gang affiliation wouldn't mistake yours for a Honda . . .)
We were through. I gave it a kiss and a pat when I left the lot, in my new/used '04 Ford Freestar. I am a Van Mom after holding out all these years in my Hyundais.
I feel like someone died. I will admire the Sonata from a distance.
May you all be safe and trouble free. Lunchmom
Any ideas what could be going on? I've got a 4-cyl 2000 Hyundai Sonata with 75,000 miles doing some strange things. First, in the morning when I start it up and put it into drive, it occasionally will not immediately accelerate when I hit the gas, instead waiting about a second and then jumping forward to catch up to the gas pedal. This only happens the first time I start the car each day, and only happens the first one or two times that I hit the gas - the acceleration seems fine for the rest of the drive.
This first problem led me to get the car looked at. The O2 sensors, spark plug wires, and spark plug cylinders were all replaced. This fixed the problem for about two weeks until it came back around. At this point, I replaced the mass air flow sensor with a used one and the problem went away. This happened two months ago, but I think the problem might be back.
When the spark plug cylinders were replaced, the mechanic said that the vehicle was also experiencing a second problem, potentially more serious than the acceleration: sporadic massive power shortages of which he couldn't find the source. Since the car seemed to be working fine (and the check engine light went out) after the mass air flow sensor was replaced, I figured this problem was fixed too.
However, I think that the power problem is back. The check engine light turned on last week but turned off earlier this week of its own accord. More tellingly, every once in a while while I'm driving, it seems as if the engine stops and then starts again after a split second. If I am stopped at a light when this happens, the car might stall or it might just shudder a bit until the engine kicks back in. If this happens on the highway, the car acts as if power to the engine has been cut for a split second, with the effect being that it feels as if someone hit the brakes and then immediately hit the accelerator.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Dunno. Did you squirt that stuff into the air intake? If enough liquid got to the mass airflow sensor near the throttle body, no tellin' what kinda mischief could've resulted. And then again, there might not be any damage now that the stuff's evaporated. Maybe you just need to have the code wiped, now. Your dealer can do that with his "High Scan" tool. Sorry to be so vague, but this computerized emissions and engine control stuff is pretty much Greek to me, too.
I'm pretty sure Hyundai seals the oil pan with RTV sealant on late model Sonata engines. One problem area with the goop is that people will run a bead on the pan mounting flange and then immediately position the pan and screw the attaching bolts in. The sealant needs a few minutes to partially setup - no more than about 15 minutes, semi-firm, but still tacky - before mounting the pan. Also pan and engine mounting surfaces have to be clean and dry for a proper bond. It's also important not to let the bond break at any point once the pan is positioned. If it does, it's a no-go for seal integrity. Doing the job right without a helper is an practical exercise in frustration and anger management.
good luck.
I own a 2005 Sonata (4 cyl). I purchased it back in November 2004. Last week I took it in for it's 22,000 maintenance at my local Hyundai dealer. Four days later on my way home from work smoke was coming out of my car and I could smell burning. All of a sudden my oil light came on. I pulled over and that's when I noticed that oil had been leaking. I had to get it towed to the dealership (by the way the Hyundai Roadside Service kept me on hold FOREVER...so I had to call AAA instead!). To make a long story short, the dealership has told me that the engine needs to be replaced. They are ordering a new one. In the mean time, the bad engine is being tested to determine exactly why it failed (obviously the leaking oil was a factor!). The dealership provided me a loaner and I probably won't get the Sonata back for two weeks. They've assured me that this is under warranty. Have any of you experienced a problem like this. Im concerned because this is a fairly new vehicle. Anyway, after this is all said and done, I will never buy another Sonata again! (I used to own a Santa Fe......)
I also have one of these cars (must be the twin) same problem they changed my sensor now they want to change the mass air flow 780.00$ in Canada.What intriges me the most is that from time to time the check engine light turn off ( when i'm doing long distance with the cruise control on and on flat surface) But i must admit i did not think of the gaz pump. It gives me code PO171 at the dealer (too lean) and PO171B at my regular garage. If you find the problem please let me know how it works out on your side i will do the same. Thank you
Ben
I'm gonna let it go away whenever it wants to and keep checking for the code.
Barry S.