Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

18911131464

Comments

  • lunchmomlunchmom Member Posts: 11
    Well, (deep breath), most of it was warranty. The plugs and wires, the last battery, the alternator, canister vac, crank shaft sensor and last timing belt I paid for. All the tires, brakes and rotors I paid for of course. I don't mind doing some work, but we have spent alot of time, energy, and worry too. I also hit a deer when it was 4 months old, and a teen hit it when it was parked last month. :cry:
    One would think a crank shaft sensor would be power train warranty, but it is not. It is located within the timing belt area and they have to remove the belt to get to it.(While we are in there let us do the belt) AAAAHHHH!!!

    We actually had a 7/ 72,000mile warranty due to Hyundai overstating the horse power on the window sticker. They had to compensate owners with the longer warranty. Owners could choose from 3 warranties- 7/72,000 bumper, 12/120,000 power train, or road side assistance for longer. So, from that I squeezed a bearing out of them at 71,960 miles. Now I have something not working with the airbag since the light is on constantly. They reset my adaptive learning transmission when they did my belt. It has not shifted in time when topping and descending a hill since.

    We do love our Hyundai though and that is why I am so upset and disapointed and strapped for cash. We want to keep it, so we fix it.

    We regularly ask people at gas stations and parking lots about their car and mileage. No one else has had the amount of problems we have had. We hear alot of tires/ brake stories though. Even where I buy and rotate all my tires, his son in law has one too with tire and brake issues. Michelins gave it the most incredible ride, but I can not afford to replace those all the time.

    I'd say drive one, rent/ borrow one if you can, really check it out. I don't know if an extended warranty would have helped or not. Four other people we know bought Hyundai's because they liked our car. Our neighbors bought a Sonata, my sister an Elantra, her Mother-in-law an Accent, and a co-worker an Elantra. We could have done a commercial. Ha!!

    If it were a horse I'd shoot it., but I need it.
    Enjoy shopping for a car.
  • lunchmomlunchmom Member Posts: 11
    I feel for you.
  • fezzyfezzy Member Posts: 83
    Check you states lemon law rules. If they have repeatedly change the same part under warranty you may be entitled to a new car or some type of compensation. The reason a part may continuously fail is due to another defective part. If the defective part is never changed you will continue to have the same problem. I had a 94 Elantra an never had any problems. These are different model but same manufacturer.
    Check out this link, it may be helpful to you.

    http://autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html
  • dchurch52dchurch52 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Sonata with over 78000 on it. Last sept started having some problems and had the speed sensor replaced. Lately though, car kept hickuping, surging and such and then started stalling. The car has been to the shop and dealer a total of 4 times now in a 2week period and so far the following has been done.

    Air Filter/fuel Filter/Plugs/cables/Air Flow Sensor/02 Sensor/Wiring harness/side a/bag and still the car is having problems. I am scared to drive it as it has even tried to stall while in motion and so much for them doing the air bag recall work as the light came back on in less than an hr leaving the dealership. Now they think it COULD be the torque converter or crankshaft something or other. I am tired of taking it in for could be's and have spent over 1200.00 so far trying to get to the problem. Any suggestions? Prior to this, I loved this car
  • benetlynebenetlyne Member Posts: 6
    Good day to all

    Just came back from dealer they tell me P0171B too lean ??? the map sensor 780.00$ Can need to be changed my car as 118000 KM (70800 m aprox) can that be the thruth they changed everything o2 sensor oxygen sensor and more. Is it possible for the map sensor. The car seem not to be able to take it's gaz when i step on it ( it hesitate).
    Thank you for your help ( I do have a money pit)
    Ben :lemon:
  • lunchmomlunchmom Member Posts: 11
    Seriously, Your crank shaft sensor really may be the culprit, I have had 3 of the replaced. 2 in the last 6 weeks.
  • dchurch52dchurch52 Member Posts: 4
    But can anyone tell me if this is the fix? I see others that have gotten to this point but have yet to see anyone on here who has said all is well now after replacing all these sensors and stuff. Now including the crankshaft sensor, I am well into $1400.00 worth of work in just 2.5 weeks and they are telling me if that doesn't work, they will look at the torque converter next but that will mean pulling the transmission YIKES.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Too many of your dealers are just chucking parts at your cars in a futile hope that they will replace the right one at some point. I would be taking my car to another dealer or an independent (if I was paying for the repair - not under warranty) who can TELL me what the problem is. Or at least narrow it down to 3 components....jeez. With a multimeter and a vacuum gauge you should be able to tell the operational status of just about any part, not to mention all the other doodads the dealers have.
  • dchurch52dchurch52 Member Posts: 4
    You would think that anyone would be able to scan (the computer components), run the tests, etc and diagnois the real problem, unfortunately, it doesn't always do it so if the car is not acting up when they scan it, it codes just fine. Twice they have gotten it to show some bad codes for the work they have already done, but a half an hour later, it is running fine again and coding is showing ok. When they changed the crank shaft sensor, they found 3 burned wires. Not sure if this is because of the sensor going bad or if the wires went bad from another problem which then showed as the sensor. I will find out, hopefully, today, if it is fixed
  • fezzyfezzy Member Posts: 83
    Your parts and labor should at least come with some type or limited warranty especially if it's the same part going out over and over again in a short period of time. I would not pay any additional charges because it seems like they are not actually fixing your car but just re setting it to work right and hoping that it continues to work fine. Just to be sure that they are at least replacing the parts claimed I would ask for my old parts back. I would than have it checked else where and if it's no good dispose of it.

    However, this does not guarantee that your car will be properly fixed but assures you that they did change the part. In addition, if the same part goes out again it only indicates that something else within the car is causing the problem.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Unless your Hyundai is vastly different from all my other cars, the code will remain set until the TCU/ECU is reset. Otherwise, all previous codes are stored and restarting the car does not get rid of them. Your idiot lights may go off, but the codes are still there. As far as I know, removing the fuses for the TCU/ECU or disconnecting the battery for a bit are the only ways to clear the codes.

    Anyone should be able to pinpoint the problem since the test equipment they are using is basically the same, but the level of expertise with it and your car is of course not. If my mechanic was throwing parts at my car in the way the people on here are describing, I would take it somewhere else if possible, that's all I'm saying. Perhaps a place that specializes in imports, though the pricing may be a little high, they might be able to isolate the problem very quickly. It's worth an estimate at least in my mind.
  • hd317hd317 Member Posts: 4
    I think HYUNDAI should use better quality sensors.They have all kid of problems regardiing all sensors, like input sensor, output sensor, o2 sensor, map ....etc. I replaced my input speed sensor my self. Dealar want 300 dollar for job done??????I was thinking to buy hyundai sanata fe but as now i have changed my mind. I have another three cars and i never get any check engine light.All another three car had almost 100000 miles on it.
  • lunchmomlunchmom Member Posts: 11
    Well, I will be getting a right rear bearing and hub tomorrow from my neighbor mechanic. I had him look at it a few weeks ago for struts, shocks, and sway bar since I felt a shift in the back end when hitting bumps. I guess it was the bearing. The tell tale sound appeared recently and I knew from last time that it was not tire/ road noise. I am sick of making payments and paying repairs too. I am not using genuine Hyundai parts this time. Hyundai wanted $298.00 for the job. No way. I hope I come in alot better with my neighbor. I got the left rear done in January under warranty.
  • dchurch52dchurch52 Member Posts: 4
    so far, so good with the car now after replacing the crankshaft sensor which was broken and burned. why didn't the dealership find that in the first place? now being told it was what caused all the problems in the first place (now they tell me). All the other sensors were replaced for the wrong reason but perhaps now, after $1400.00 later, I will be able to drive stress free again
  • lunchmomlunchmom Member Posts: 11
    dchurch52,
    See, "stupid woman" should have opened my own woman's car repair shop.
    Not being high handed, just willing to listen to and feel the way my car works during 84,000 miles of driving my money pit. Crank shaft sensor has proven to be the culprit for you too. Glad you are fixed up finally.
    I wrote that I had a crank shaft fan replaced too- it is a crank shaft blade. I wrote to the NHTSA, or whatever order those letters go in, about my 3 crank shaft sensor replacements. We shall see what happens.
    Hopefully none of us die in an accident from spontaneous crank shaft sensor failure.
    My 16 year old is about to get his permit next week. That is why I wrote the safety group. He is irreplaceable - that Sonata is not.

    Rear bearing replaced for well under dealer's quote. Thank God for neighbor mechanics!!!
  • ontheroad3ontheroad3 Member Posts: 1
    whenever i fill up my sonata it start to jerk alittle. this only happens when i put gas in it after about 5 min it go back to normal. i went to a mechanic but they dont know what the problem is any feed back would be great
  • sonlxsonlx Member Posts: 21
    Greetings everybody. I was wondering if anyone knew whether or Cruise control came standard on all 2003 Sonatas. I am trying to add a strut bar and doing some research regarding proper fit. The company selling the strut bar mentions that cruise control may cause the strut bar to be a non fit. So if anyone knows, I'd like to be enlightened.
  • criptorcriptor Member Posts: 3
    Hi all, My 1999 Sonata's Engine Light recently came on and I have the privilege to check this myself as I bought one of those nifty code readers. I have two codes showing....the only problem is that I don't know how to fix it.

    Code 1 - P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
    Code 2 - P0115 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction

    The car still seems to run fine even though there is a problem....

    Does anyone know where these sensors are on a 1999 Hyundai Sonata (2.5L 4 Cylinder) and does anyone know the prices of these sensors?

    Thank you very much
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,602
    The simple answer/question is "does your car have cruise control?"

    Does the car have cruise control buttons or swithces? The '05 Sonata has the control buttons on the right side of the steering wheel, but the cruise must be first be activated by pushing a button on the lower left dash panel, left of the steering wheel and lower than the instrument panel.
  • sonlxsonlx Member Posts: 21
    Yes, my car does have cruise control. however I am trying to find out if all 03 sonatas came with cruise control bc the company selling the strut bar has sold them to 03 sonata owners with no problems. So If all 03 sonatas came with cruise control and 03 sonata owners bought the strut bar with no problem in installation of the bar, then my car would have no problem. I was not trying to find out if my car had cruise control or not but rather if all 03 sonatas came with cruise control.
    Thank You :shades:
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,602
    The 2003 "Consumer Guide" lists cruise control as standard equipment for all '03 Sonatas.
  • dimaofnjdimaofnj Member Posts: 3
    Hi people- it's my first post and first off I'd like to say that I've read quite a few and learned quite a bit of useful info about my car. So thank you.

    Now, my situation.... I have a 2000 Sonata, GLS V6, and I have never changed my automatic transmission fluid. My car has 74,000 and has been generally problem free, but the transmission does not perform nearly as well as it used to. This car is a V6 and back in the day I felt its power any time I hit the gas at 40 mph and it took off, but now I floor it and it doesn't even downshift. Is the problem my 74,000 mile old transmission fluid? I've been told that automatic transmission fluid should not be changed when the car is that old.. Is that true? Will a transmission service improve the transmission's response to the gas pedal?

    Your help is greatly appreciated.

    Dima of n.j.
  • rubberwalrusrubberwalrus Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the blower motor on my '98 sonata and now it feels as if hardly any air is coming through the vents. I turn the fan all the way on and it feels like it is barely on but I can hear and I've seen the fan itself blowing normally. Does anyone know what else could be keeping it from blowing out through the vents as fast as it should?
  • lji1lji1 Member Posts: 41
    Hi,
    I am seriously thinking about buying a 2006 Hyundai Sonata and I heard that if you might have some problems if you don't do all the servicing at the dealership itself. I change the oil in all my cars at the regular intervals (~3500 miles). I also might use synthetic for the Sonata. What I had heard was that the dealer might refuse to fix a problem, should one arise, if the regular maintenance (things you can do by yourself) were not done at the dealership. If anybody has had similar situations, please post a message asap. I am thinking about buying the car tomorrow. I am in the Houston, TX area.

    :confuse:
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    I just leased an 06 Sonata GL (and said farewell to my 02 Elantra GLS) this past weekend. So far so good, but I noticed a couple of minor issues. First, when driving the car at really low speeds (like when slowing down to go over speed bumps in my parking lot) or when I stop for whatever reason (red light), I hear a very faint tapping noise (kind of like a pitter patter) coming from the back of the car. I think it's either something in the exhaust, suspension, or perhaps even the fuel system. I can only hear it when the windows are rolled up and I don't have the radio on. My Elantra used to make a similar (but much louder) noise for a few seconds after driving it around for a while and then slowing down and coming to a stop. Perhaps the noises are related.

    The next issue is a slight grainy feeling in the gas pedal here and there when easing off it while accelerating. It might have to do more with road feel transmitting to the cabin, though, just like when I drive the car on a bumpy road.

    The final minor issue is a slight wind noise coming from the driver's side front window at highway speeds. Maybe the dealer can make an adjustment, or maybe this noise is normal. I guess because the interior is quiet to begin with (except when going over a bumpy road), you start noticing these other small noises as a result.

    At least there aren't any squeaks or rattles. That's a plus! :)
  • lunchmomlunchmom Member Posts: 11
    We have a 2001 Sonata with 84,000 miles. It was sluggish and having trouble up hills. We were beginning to really worry about the transmission too and its fluid. After some discussions at my husband's work, we changed our fuel filter this weekend. What a huge difference in the pickup and go.
    Just be careful, the nut was really rusted and he snapped the fuel line, and what was a 15 min. fix became nine hours of looking for parts and driving to repair stores on a Sunday! We sat with a gas can catching fuel for a while too. Thankfully our other vehicle had been moved, or we would have been blocked in without a truck to go to the part stores.
    My husband laughed when he asked me if I still wanted him to check the tranny fluid. We decided to wait.
    He bought open face metric sockets, the filter, and then the replaced gas line and fittings. It came to a hundred bucks!!! Some things are cheaper when a shop does it!! All we could do was laugh. We have spent 1,900 bucks since June on our vehicles. No kidding. We can not afford any thing more to go wrong.
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    Yes, it's worth it to have a shop change your fuel filter. I think even the Hyundai dealerships in my area don't charge more than about $70 for it.

    It's possible to have a dealer mess up a fuel filter change, though. I had a 96 Grand Am that I took to a local Chevrolet dealer's "quick lube" service center, and the tech there was a bit too agressive when removing part of the fuel line. They caught it on the spot and sent me over to the regular service department, who fixed it that evening and even gave me a free loaner just in case they wouldn't be able to get to it until the next day. They said if I had done the same thing the quick lube tech did, it would have cost almost $400 to fix! I'm guessing their cost was maybe $20 or so ;)
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    Make a list of these little niggling issues as you discover them. After about a month from when you took delivery, present car and list to your dealer's service department to have them attended to under warranty. Presuming you've put around 500 miles or more during that time on the engine, consider having the dealer change the oil and oil filter, too. I've always been more comfortable getting the factory fill oil out earlier rather than later because there're inevitably factory leftovers from machining and grit from sand-cast parts in spite of the factory's best efforts to thoroughly rinse the stuff away prior to assembly. Additionally, new engines most heavily "make metal" for the first several hundred miles of their lives as the bearing surfaces align and mill themselves to each other and the piston rings seat to the cylinder walls.
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    "I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata and it does have a cabin AC filter. You have to remove the glove box to get to it. You can get a replacement filter from the dealer."

    Not all Sonatas came from the factory with a cabin air filter installed, though those which didn't can be subsequently fit with one. The base model Sonatas in 2003, and perhaps earlier and later, were not equipped with a cabin air filter from the factory. I put one in mine once I figured out how the get the string loop that retards opening speed of the glove bin out of its retainer. It's been a serviceable car so far, but at times, I do question what goes through some of Hyundai's designers' heads . . .
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    Yes, I'll definitely do an early oil change and then make the dealer check out my handful of little issues at that time.

    I drove some friends around last night and had one in the back seat try to help me figure out what the minor pitter patter noise was. She was pretty sure it was coming from the rear brakes. If it was the brakes, though, I wonder why I would still hear the noise for a bit even after coming to a complete stop.

    I noticed that when it was cooler this morning, the gas pedal didn't feel as "grainy", but it was more noticeable when coming home (with the temp around 80). I'll have the dealer look at the accelerator cable and lube (or even replace) it if necessary. There is also a chance that something is vibrating against the cable, so I'll ask the dealer about that too.

    I figure for wind noise, the dealer might make things worse. It's barely noticeable to begin with, and most of the time I have music playing anyway. :)
  • jasminenhjasminenh Member Posts: 2
    I had all of my belts replaced at 70k (yes, I know it should have been done at 60k). Prior to replacing the belts, my 2000 Sonata 4cyl. ran fine. When I got the car back, it started making this random squealing (belt noise) when I first start the engine cold. If the engine is already warm, generally there is no problem. The noise becomes worse if I turn the A/C on and when I make my first turn.
    Also, when I accelerate (doesn't matter what engine temp) from a stop, it often feels like the gears are slipping - much like the way it feels when you are driving a 5-speed and letting the clutch out in 1st gear, right before the gear catches (my car is an automatic). I took it back to the mechanic 2 weeks after he replaced the belts, and he kept the car all day and tightened the belts. This did not solve the problem, in fact, it is getting worse. Also, if when I am driving in the 40 - 45 mph range and accelerating, the car "bucks". If I take my foot off the gas briefly, it usually clears up. Any advise on what to look for? I'm using a new service station that came highly recommended, but you know how it is when you are a woman...I find I have to really know my stuff walking in the door!

    Thanks -
    Melissa
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    Take the car to a Hyundai dealer. They probably deal with these issues a lot more than the other service station ever would (when it comes to servicing Hyundais, that is).
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    Don't worry, the belt squealing isn't a serious problem, though over time it could lead to accelerated belt wear. There's typically some very slight initial stretching of a new belt after it's placed in service. Return the car to whomever handled your new belts' installation. It's a quick, simple procedure to loosen and retension the adjustable pulley(s) on the offending belt(s).

    Dealing with what sounds like engine or transmission "bucking" may be something more complicated. Since driveability is involved, it may be beyond the scope of an independent shop to properly address. You may be better off ($$$) having this issue looked at by a Hyundai service department. I'm not one who ordinarily goes hopping to my dealer, but some problems are beyond the scope of service station mechanics who often lack the proper individualized training on modern cars and aren't equipped with the make-specialized diagnostics instrumentation, and who just go around throwing new parts at a problem in hopes that one of 'em'll fix it. At least the dealership will have the Hyundai recommended computerized diagnostics instrumentation and procedures manual to increase the tech's chances of quickly diagnosing the root cause of your car's problem. The Hyundai tech will also have the advantage of phone access to Hyundai's centralized troubleshooting hotline. Given the car's age and mileage, I could hazard a guess that the automatic transmission fluid may need changing - that 40-45 mph speed issue suggests the possibility that torque-converter lockup isn't engaging properly, since that's about the speed it kicks in. But, that's by no means the only possibility, or even the cheapest one. By the way, Hyundai automatics are VERY fussy about the type of transmission fluid used in them. A Mitsubishi proprietary fluid, "SP-III", is the only proper ATF for Hyundai automaics manufactured after 1996, and few, if any, independent shops bother with anything other than universally and cheaply available DEXRON III fluid. Unfortunately, genuine SP-III is only available through Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi dealerships. Did your new service station change out your automatic transmission fluid, by any chance?
  • lunchmomlunchmom Member Posts: 11
    You are describing exactly the way my car has been acting since changing my belt, too. I described it the same way to my husband, my 1989 Excel was a 5 speed. We changed the fuel filter last Sunday, and thought it helped some, but it seems to be getting worse also. It doesn't shift right topping a hill or descending a hill. It also sounds like a swarm of bees when it does this. Check out your RPM needle to see if it fluctuates. Mine stays up when coming down the hill and is too low when going up the hill. It is not shifting correctly. You can hear it.
    When I had it at the dealer they told me that they can not get it to reproduce the problem. I stopped in a different private garage than I normally use (my guy doesn't have the foreign scan tool) and he is willing to scan it for me. I am supposed to have it scanned in the morning. It might be a well spent fee, or I might be wasting the money. Either way I'll know I tried to get an answer as to what is wrong. He knows he won't do the work since it would be warranty. He is not gaining anything by looking at my car. He is recommended by the local auto parts who sell to our reg private guy, too.
    I'll let you know what he says.
  • fezzyfezzy Member Posts: 83
    when you say pitter patter noise was that only when you hit bumps at a slow speed. I did try to hear the noise a slow speeds and did. However, when rolling the noise are not really there. As for the wind noise, I think it's the cabin is a little quieter than usual. This would make any noise really stand out. I tried to see if my other vehicle has the same noise and yes they were there. However, it's a truck, dualed out so I have to listen over the pipes to hear wind and road noise.

    I agree, I wouldn't let the dealer mess with anything until you pinpoint what you want them to look at. They could actually makes things worse.
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    I can also hear the pitter patter noise for a few seconds after coming to a complete stop. It could be fuel splashing around in the tank or something in the exhaust, who knows? Like you said, the cabin is so quiet, so these little noises become more noticeable.

    Do you also notice any sort of grainy feel in your gas pedal? The ride is so smooth that the grainy/buzzy feel in the pedal can be a distraction at times. It's mainly there at lower speeds while accelerating, so it's not an issue while cruising. It also doesn't seem to be as much of an issue when the temp is below 75 or so, and for whatever reason, I don't think it's as bad when the a/c is on (like it was during my test drive).

    Before I have the dealer start taking things apart, I'll ask my saleswoman if I can drive another Sonata GL around the dealership's parking lot and see if I can duplicate the issues.
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    Something not properly battened down in the trunk? If you check, don't forget to remove the spare tire to verify there's nothing loose under the wheel when it's secured in its well. May need to temorarily remove the side panels in the trunk to check for something loose, too.
  • benetlynebenetlyne Member Posts: 6
    Good day to all

    I have one of those :lemon: I have a problem with code PO171 ( too lean) they changed the Mass air flow 780.00$ reset the computer after 2 days still did the same . They put back the old one credited the 780.00$ but played with other things. Now still PO171 but now when i go when the car is cold it jerk (no power) and when i accelerate in pinks (like the old car timing problem). I put super unleaded in it verry expensive 1.15l$canadian (aprox 4.84US$/gal). Can anyone tell me what could be the problem now. I spend more time with the mecanic then my wife.

    Thank You
    Ben :mad:
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    Are you using a Hyundai dealership's service department or an independent shop? If the latter, you really need to seek help from people who deal routinely with Hyundai cars. If you have been taking your car to a Hyundai dealership, it may be time to try a different one - some service departments are not as good as they should be, espeically if Hyundai is thier second line. Your car can be fixed, but it sounds like whoever has worked on your car's problem is throwing parts at it in hopes he'll get lucky. Hyundai maintains a free diagnostics telephone hotline for dealer service techs to access when the normal diagnostics and procedures fail to resolve an operational problem; so, if you've repeatedly gone to a dealership over the problem without satisfactory resolution, the techs have no excuse for failing to follow up and see the problem through.
  • mvespermvesper Member Posts: 3
    Greetings from NJ...
    I was just at a local Hyundai dealership and they had a loaded 2006 Sonata LX on the lot. The "finance mgr" had driven it about 5K miles already. Sticker was $24,500. Based on what I've read I could probably get one new for between $23,400 and $24,100. What kind of discount should I get for the 5K miles??? Ideas? Suggestions? I appreciate any insight. Thanks
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    Well, it appears that the pitter-patter brake/exhaust noise I mentioned before is gone now, or at least it goes away in really hot weather. There is also a chance that it was just the brakes wearing in. I have to say that the brakes work great otherwise, and I haven't even had to use them to their full capability yet. Knowing how Columbus drivers are, I'm sure I'll have a chance to check out the ABS sooner or later, probably sooner :)

    That just leaves me with a minor buzz feeling in the gas pedal when accelerating (mainly at lower speeds when I'm taking it easy on the engine). I'll talk to my saleswoman and see if she'll let me hop into another 4 cylinder Sonata to see if I can replicate it, and then I'll contact the service department accordingly (no Honda pun intended). Perhaps the accelerator cable is brushing up against something under the hood, or maybe it's just my imagination (although I definitely would have remembered this during the test drive if it happened then). I'll get this one figured out sooner or later.

    I mentioned one other issue before, and that was some wind noise at highway speeds. I think what I'm hearing is normal, but I'll double check when I drive around another 4 cylinder Sonata to check out its gas pedal.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,602
    Since this car has 5,000 miles you should consider it a used car. Check Edmunds and KBB to see if there is a used car value yet on this car with 5,000 miles. If not, you might check Edmunds TCO site and estimate the 1st yr's depreciation. If you drive 10,000 miles in the next year, what can you expect an '06 with 15,000 miles will be worth at that time vs what it would be worth with 10,000 miles. few years down the road the extra 5K won't mean much. But, what happens in the car gets totaled in the first year? You'll lose out due to higher milage.

    Another thing, this car has already burned out 12% of the bumper to bumper warantee. Negiotate that fact, either lower price or dealer extending the btb warrantee.
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    "...That just leaves me with a minor buzz feeling in the gas pedal when accelerating (mainly at lower speeds when I'm taking it easy on the engine). I'll talk to my saleswoman and see if she'll let me hop into another 4 cylinder Sonata to see if I can replicate it..."

    I just finished a 45 minute foray to Hyundai Webtech to peruse the online 2006 Sonata Shop Manual. Hyundai is now using a fancy-schmancy "drive-by-wire" servo-system to actuate the throttle valve with a digital-proportional electric motor on the 2006 Sonatas. (Previously this hi-tech replacement for a mechanical cable was only available in the Hyundai lineup in the XG350.) This means in simple terms that when you press the accelerator pedal, you're only rotating a rheostat to control electrical current to an input in the Engine control Module (engine computer) and there is no longer a traditional direct mechanical cable connection to the throttle valve. The accelerator and cruise control electronically both integrate cleverly to the throttle control motor through the ECM, so no fussy dual cable adjustments for everything to work correctly. It's possible the vibration you feel is merely that motor doing its thing and nothing to be concerned about. (Enjoy the foot massage!) But, check anyway with the dealer service department for verification and trouble shooting if I'm wrong. I wouldn't be surprised to read if you test drive another 2006 Sonata, you report experiencing the same unfamiliar vibration.

    That objectionable wind noise may be the result of slight misadjustment of the closed position of one or more side windows. Do take it up with your dealer's service department.
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    I'm curious why I would only feel this vibration in warmer weather, though. This morning I didn't feel it (it was relatively cool out, mid to upper 60s), but I bet I'll be able to feel it when driving home later on today (we are expecting a high of 80 or so).

    Do you know if this system is on both the 4 cylinder and V6 models?

    I'll report back after doing another test drive and then talking to the service department. Until then, the mystery continues...
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    "Do you know if this system is on both the 4 cylinder and V6 models?"

    The shop manual description makes no delineation, so I presume it's common to Sonatas with either motor.
  • e067983e067983 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Sonata and it's been perfect up to 96,000. I changed the normal stuff so far w/ only one problem. The driver's side window has been fixed about 4 times for falling off the rail. All covered by warranty luckily, hasn't happened in a while. About $400 for parts, but better than getting another car payment. Think I'll keep it a while longer.
  • satzsatz Member Posts: 15
    I have replace on my 2000 in the last 3 months

    alternator
    front brakes and rotors,
    left rear regulato

    and my mech not dealer replaced my front bearing for 580$ [i know its covered by warranty but he opened the car so had him do it]

    with that i put on some new tires so the last 6 months i have spend 2k on the car.........i know tires are regular items but still that is a bunch of money .

    today i can hear by rear bearing screaming ...i have 85k can someone tell me if the rear is covered by a power train warranty or not?

    thanks
    satz
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    "...can someone tell me if the rear is covered by a power train warranty or not?"

    Only the front hub bearings are covered under the powertrain warranty. It's in your supplemental "Warranty Information" booklet.
  • e067983e067983 Member Posts: 3
    The transmission jumping could be the cam position sensor or speed sensor, which mine was recently diagnosed with. I'm going to get it fixed in a couple weeks ( I hope). As far as the codes go, the dealership is overrated. You can go to Autozone or Checker and they will plug in a diagnostic indicator and give you the codes for free. Then you can look the codes up on the internet. Normally, a dealer will charge you $75-$100 just to give you the codes and then try to sell you on everything in the world that isn't perfect. All dealers are different however. I have two near me and one is outstanding while the other one is a real pain.
  • fezzyfezzy Member Posts: 83
    Checked the trunk nothing there. Had it in the shop and they said they could not duplicate the noise. However, I noticed when I have another person in the car with me I don't hear the noise. I think it's just the car is light in the rear and bumps make the smallest noise noticable because of the lightness of the rear.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.