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Comments
One would think a crank shaft sensor would be power train warranty, but it is not. It is located within the timing belt area and they have to remove the belt to get to it.(While we are in there let us do the belt) AAAAHHHH!!!
We actually had a 7/ 72,000mile warranty due to Hyundai overstating the horse power on the window sticker. They had to compensate owners with the longer warranty. Owners could choose from 3 warranties- 7/72,000 bumper, 12/120,000 power train, or road side assistance for longer. So, from that I squeezed a bearing out of them at 71,960 miles. Now I have something not working with the airbag since the light is on constantly. They reset my adaptive learning transmission when they did my belt. It has not shifted in time when topping and descending a hill since.
We do love our Hyundai though and that is why I am so upset and disapointed and strapped for cash. We want to keep it, so we fix it.
We regularly ask people at gas stations and parking lots about their car and mileage. No one else has had the amount of problems we have had. We hear alot of tires/ brake stories though. Even where I buy and rotate all my tires, his son in law has one too with tire and brake issues. Michelins gave it the most incredible ride, but I can not afford to replace those all the time.
I'd say drive one, rent/ borrow one if you can, really check it out. I don't know if an extended warranty would have helped or not. Four other people we know bought Hyundai's because they liked our car. Our neighbors bought a Sonata, my sister an Elantra, her Mother-in-law an Accent, and a co-worker an Elantra. We could have done a commercial. Ha!!
If it were a horse I'd shoot it., but I need it.
Enjoy shopping for a car.
Check out this link, it may be helpful to you.
http://autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html
Air Filter/fuel Filter/Plugs/cables/Air Flow Sensor/02 Sensor/Wiring harness/side a/bag and still the car is having problems. I am scared to drive it as it has even tried to stall while in motion and so much for them doing the air bag recall work as the light came back on in less than an hr leaving the dealership. Now they think it COULD be the torque converter or crankshaft something or other. I am tired of taking it in for could be's and have spent over 1200.00 so far trying to get to the problem. Any suggestions? Prior to this, I loved this car
Just came back from dealer they tell me P0171B too lean ??? the map sensor 780.00$ Can need to be changed my car as 118000 KM (70800 m aprox) can that be the thruth they changed everything o2 sensor oxygen sensor and more. Is it possible for the map sensor. The car seem not to be able to take it's gaz when i step on it ( it hesitate).
Thank you for your help ( I do have a money pit)
Ben :lemon:
However, this does not guarantee that your car will be properly fixed but assures you that they did change the part. In addition, if the same part goes out again it only indicates that something else within the car is causing the problem.
Anyone should be able to pinpoint the problem since the test equipment they are using is basically the same, but the level of expertise with it and your car is of course not. If my mechanic was throwing parts at my car in the way the people on here are describing, I would take it somewhere else if possible, that's all I'm saying. Perhaps a place that specializes in imports, though the pricing may be a little high, they might be able to isolate the problem very quickly. It's worth an estimate at least in my mind.
See, "stupid woman" should have opened my own woman's car repair shop.
Not being high handed, just willing to listen to and feel the way my car works during 84,000 miles of driving my money pit. Crank shaft sensor has proven to be the culprit for you too. Glad you are fixed up finally.
I wrote that I had a crank shaft fan replaced too- it is a crank shaft blade. I wrote to the NHTSA, or whatever order those letters go in, about my 3 crank shaft sensor replacements. We shall see what happens.
Hopefully none of us die in an accident from spontaneous crank shaft sensor failure.
My 16 year old is about to get his permit next week. That is why I wrote the safety group. He is irreplaceable - that Sonata is not.
Rear bearing replaced for well under dealer's quote. Thank God for neighbor mechanics!!!
Code 1 - P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
Code 2 - P0115 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
The car still seems to run fine even though there is a problem....
Does anyone know where these sensors are on a 1999 Hyundai Sonata (2.5L 4 Cylinder) and does anyone know the prices of these sensors?
Thank you very much
Does the car have cruise control buttons or swithces? The '05 Sonata has the control buttons on the right side of the steering wheel, but the cruise must be first be activated by pushing a button on the lower left dash panel, left of the steering wheel and lower than the instrument panel.
Thank You :shades:
Now, my situation.... I have a 2000 Sonata, GLS V6, and I have never changed my automatic transmission fluid. My car has 74,000 and has been generally problem free, but the transmission does not perform nearly as well as it used to. This car is a V6 and back in the day I felt its power any time I hit the gas at 40 mph and it took off, but now I floor it and it doesn't even downshift. Is the problem my 74,000 mile old transmission fluid? I've been told that automatic transmission fluid should not be changed when the car is that old.. Is that true? Will a transmission service improve the transmission's response to the gas pedal?
Your help is greatly appreciated.
Dima of n.j.
I am seriously thinking about buying a 2006 Hyundai Sonata and I heard that if you might have some problems if you don't do all the servicing at the dealership itself. I change the oil in all my cars at the regular intervals (~3500 miles). I also might use synthetic for the Sonata. What I had heard was that the dealer might refuse to fix a problem, should one arise, if the regular maintenance (things you can do by yourself) were not done at the dealership. If anybody has had similar situations, please post a message asap. I am thinking about buying the car tomorrow. I am in the Houston, TX area.
:confuse:
The next issue is a slight grainy feeling in the gas pedal here and there when easing off it while accelerating. It might have to do more with road feel transmitting to the cabin, though, just like when I drive the car on a bumpy road.
The final minor issue is a slight wind noise coming from the driver's side front window at highway speeds. Maybe the dealer can make an adjustment, or maybe this noise is normal. I guess because the interior is quiet to begin with (except when going over a bumpy road), you start noticing these other small noises as a result.
At least there aren't any squeaks or rattles. That's a plus!
Just be careful, the nut was really rusted and he snapped the fuel line, and what was a 15 min. fix became nine hours of looking for parts and driving to repair stores on a Sunday! We sat with a gas can catching fuel for a while too. Thankfully our other vehicle had been moved, or we would have been blocked in without a truck to go to the part stores.
My husband laughed when he asked me if I still wanted him to check the tranny fluid. We decided to wait.
He bought open face metric sockets, the filter, and then the replaced gas line and fittings. It came to a hundred bucks!!! Some things are cheaper when a shop does it!! All we could do was laugh. We have spent 1,900 bucks since June on our vehicles. No kidding. We can not afford any thing more to go wrong.
It's possible to have a dealer mess up a fuel filter change, though. I had a 96 Grand Am that I took to a local Chevrolet dealer's "quick lube" service center, and the tech there was a bit too agressive when removing part of the fuel line. They caught it on the spot and sent me over to the regular service department, who fixed it that evening and even gave me a free loaner just in case they wouldn't be able to get to it until the next day. They said if I had done the same thing the quick lube tech did, it would have cost almost $400 to fix! I'm guessing their cost was maybe $20 or so
Not all Sonatas came from the factory with a cabin air filter installed, though those which didn't can be subsequently fit with one. The base model Sonatas in 2003, and perhaps earlier and later, were not equipped with a cabin air filter from the factory. I put one in mine once I figured out how the get the string loop that retards opening speed of the glove bin out of its retainer. It's been a serviceable car so far, but at times, I do question what goes through some of Hyundai's designers' heads . . .
I drove some friends around last night and had one in the back seat try to help me figure out what the minor pitter patter noise was. She was pretty sure it was coming from the rear brakes. If it was the brakes, though, I wonder why I would still hear the noise for a bit even after coming to a complete stop.
I noticed that when it was cooler this morning, the gas pedal didn't feel as "grainy", but it was more noticeable when coming home (with the temp around 80). I'll have the dealer look at the accelerator cable and lube (or even replace) it if necessary. There is also a chance that something is vibrating against the cable, so I'll ask the dealer about that too.
I figure for wind noise, the dealer might make things worse. It's barely noticeable to begin with, and most of the time I have music playing anyway.
Also, when I accelerate (doesn't matter what engine temp) from a stop, it often feels like the gears are slipping - much like the way it feels when you are driving a 5-speed and letting the clutch out in 1st gear, right before the gear catches (my car is an automatic). I took it back to the mechanic 2 weeks after he replaced the belts, and he kept the car all day and tightened the belts. This did not solve the problem, in fact, it is getting worse. Also, if when I am driving in the 40 - 45 mph range and accelerating, the car "bucks". If I take my foot off the gas briefly, it usually clears up. Any advise on what to look for? I'm using a new service station that came highly recommended, but you know how it is when you are a woman...I find I have to really know my stuff walking in the door!
Thanks -
Melissa
Dealing with what sounds like engine or transmission "bucking" may be something more complicated. Since driveability is involved, it may be beyond the scope of an independent shop to properly address. You may be better off ($$$) having this issue looked at by a Hyundai service department. I'm not one who ordinarily goes hopping to my dealer, but some problems are beyond the scope of service station mechanics who often lack the proper individualized training on modern cars and aren't equipped with the make-specialized diagnostics instrumentation, and who just go around throwing new parts at a problem in hopes that one of 'em'll fix it. At least the dealership will have the Hyundai recommended computerized diagnostics instrumentation and procedures manual to increase the tech's chances of quickly diagnosing the root cause of your car's problem. The Hyundai tech will also have the advantage of phone access to Hyundai's centralized troubleshooting hotline. Given the car's age and mileage, I could hazard a guess that the automatic transmission fluid may need changing - that 40-45 mph speed issue suggests the possibility that torque-converter lockup isn't engaging properly, since that's about the speed it kicks in. But, that's by no means the only possibility, or even the cheapest one. By the way, Hyundai automatics are VERY fussy about the type of transmission fluid used in them. A Mitsubishi proprietary fluid, "SP-III", is the only proper ATF for Hyundai automaics manufactured after 1996, and few, if any, independent shops bother with anything other than universally and cheaply available DEXRON III fluid. Unfortunately, genuine SP-III is only available through Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi dealerships. Did your new service station change out your automatic transmission fluid, by any chance?
When I had it at the dealer they told me that they can not get it to reproduce the problem. I stopped in a different private garage than I normally use (my guy doesn't have the foreign scan tool) and he is willing to scan it for me. I am supposed to have it scanned in the morning. It might be a well spent fee, or I might be wasting the money. Either way I'll know I tried to get an answer as to what is wrong. He knows he won't do the work since it would be warranty. He is not gaining anything by looking at my car. He is recommended by the local auto parts who sell to our reg private guy, too.
I'll let you know what he says.
I agree, I wouldn't let the dealer mess with anything until you pinpoint what you want them to look at. They could actually makes things worse.
Do you also notice any sort of grainy feel in your gas pedal? The ride is so smooth that the grainy/buzzy feel in the pedal can be a distraction at times. It's mainly there at lower speeds while accelerating, so it's not an issue while cruising. It also doesn't seem to be as much of an issue when the temp is below 75 or so, and for whatever reason, I don't think it's as bad when the a/c is on (like it was during my test drive).
Before I have the dealer start taking things apart, I'll ask my saleswoman if I can drive another Sonata GL around the dealership's parking lot and see if I can duplicate the issues.
I have one of those :lemon: I have a problem with code PO171 ( too lean) they changed the Mass air flow 780.00$ reset the computer after 2 days still did the same . They put back the old one credited the 780.00$ but played with other things. Now still PO171 but now when i go when the car is cold it jerk (no power) and when i accelerate in pinks (like the old car timing problem). I put super unleaded in it verry expensive 1.15l$canadian (aprox 4.84US$/gal). Can anyone tell me what could be the problem now. I spend more time with the mecanic then my wife.
Thank You
Ben :mad:
I was just at a local Hyundai dealership and they had a loaded 2006 Sonata LX on the lot. The "finance mgr" had driven it about 5K miles already. Sticker was $24,500. Based on what I've read I could probably get one new for between $23,400 and $24,100. What kind of discount should I get for the 5K miles??? Ideas? Suggestions? I appreciate any insight. Thanks
That just leaves me with a minor buzz feeling in the gas pedal when accelerating (mainly at lower speeds when I'm taking it easy on the engine). I'll talk to my saleswoman and see if she'll let me hop into another 4 cylinder Sonata to see if I can replicate it, and then I'll contact the service department accordingly (no Honda pun intended). Perhaps the accelerator cable is brushing up against something under the hood, or maybe it's just my imagination (although I definitely would have remembered this during the test drive if it happened then). I'll get this one figured out sooner or later.
I mentioned one other issue before, and that was some wind noise at highway speeds. I think what I'm hearing is normal, but I'll double check when I drive around another 4 cylinder Sonata to check out its gas pedal.
Another thing, this car has already burned out 12% of the bumper to bumper warantee. Negiotate that fact, either lower price or dealer extending the btb warrantee.
I just finished a 45 minute foray to Hyundai Webtech to peruse the online 2006 Sonata Shop Manual. Hyundai is now using a fancy-schmancy "drive-by-wire" servo-system to actuate the throttle valve with a digital-proportional electric motor on the 2006 Sonatas. (Previously this hi-tech replacement for a mechanical cable was only available in the Hyundai lineup in the XG350.) This means in simple terms that when you press the accelerator pedal, you're only rotating a rheostat to control electrical current to an input in the Engine control Module (engine computer) and there is no longer a traditional direct mechanical cable connection to the throttle valve. The accelerator and cruise control electronically both integrate cleverly to the throttle control motor through the ECM, so no fussy dual cable adjustments for everything to work correctly. It's possible the vibration you feel is merely that motor doing its thing and nothing to be concerned about. (Enjoy the foot massage!) But, check anyway with the dealer service department for verification and trouble shooting if I'm wrong. I wouldn't be surprised to read if you test drive another 2006 Sonata, you report experiencing the same unfamiliar vibration.
That objectionable wind noise may be the result of slight misadjustment of the closed position of one or more side windows. Do take it up with your dealer's service department.
Do you know if this system is on both the 4 cylinder and V6 models?
I'll report back after doing another test drive and then talking to the service department. Until then, the mystery continues...
The shop manual description makes no delineation, so I presume it's common to Sonatas with either motor.
alternator
front brakes and rotors,
left rear regulato
and my mech not dealer replaced my front bearing for 580$ [i know its covered by warranty but he opened the car so had him do it]
with that i put on some new tires so the last 6 months i have spend 2k on the car.........i know tires are regular items but still that is a bunch of money .
today i can hear by rear bearing screaming ...i have 85k can someone tell me if the rear is covered by a power train warranty or not?
thanks
satz
Only the front hub bearings are covered under the powertrain warranty. It's in your supplemental "Warranty Information" booklet.