Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

geodirect

2002 Sonata Keyless Entry Programming

My father in law purchased a replacement remote entry for his Sonata.
The one page programming instruction sheet asks us to locate the “central locking signal control module” located behind the fascia.

After a through search we were unable to locate this device.
We need some help on where this module is located on the vehicle.

Thanks in advance, George

brabbit

I bought a used 99' sonata days ago. But there is no owners manual in the car. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the clock in the panel? Thanks.
By the way, where can I get a free owners manual?

fchafey

Thank you. I have heard this from a few different people and once it clicks I stop. I replaced the gas cap with a locking one I believe the old one didnt vent properly. I dont know. It seems to run well now. I will however look into a crank sensor. If I could only find out about the transmission fluid change interval I will be happy.

fchafey

The Hyundai website is great to include their web tech. Go there and they have all the info you are looking for.

sask1

I'm sorry I don't have an answer to any of your questions, but I would be interested in what you hear about the stalling after a gas fill. I just purchased a 2000 Sonata from out of town and the same thing happened to me on the way home from the dealer. I filled up with gas and had a tough time starting the vehicle (it wouldn't idle, just die out). When I called the dealer, he looked into it with a Hyundai dealer and was told if the gas cap isn't tightened enough (5 or 6 clicks), the computer senses gas vapour and this may lead to the stalling. My "check engine" light also came on and I was told the same story.

If I hear anymore from my end, I will pass it on to you.

Thanks and good luck.

ytcc

Bought a new 2005 sonata, 150 miles now.
In the morning when I first start the engine, the idle speed is always high, in 1800 rpm range; will drop to 1200 rpm after 1/2 min. is this normal?
(idle will be normal after driving for 5 minutes. 750rpm)
thx

dhyde3

I purchased a 2004 Sonata in October. Even though when someone asks how I like it, I always say that "I love it! It's a beautiful car, and who can beat a ten year warranty!", I have had some minor operational issues in the short six months. Rusted Rotors (Rotors turned by Dealer), Bad tire (replaced by Michelin), klunking noise in front end (still trying to identify), Irritating dimming of the lights and idle as 2nd compressor kicks on (I'm told that's normal), and occasional jumpy feeling in the transmission (won't do it when service test drives it). I am starting to get concerned now. At just 6 months old and 4600 miles, it would not start the other day. I called the trusty Road Service. They immediately sent a tow. The guy got it started, and said it seemed flooded. (Yes, I know not to touch the gas pedel when starting it). The Dealer replaced the plugs, saying that they were fouled. Is that something that I have to worry about with only 4600 miles? These problems are minor, but I don't like the idea of it not starting when I am somewhere with my family. The Service Techs have been very nice, and most times, I get a rental to drive. I really do love the car...but at what point do I wake up and smell the roses?

banditboy

All Fuel injected vehicles do that .Its part of the chock algorithm
in the carb days we used chock for it

jmunoz0925

Hi, I own a 2003 Hyundai Soanata and have been having problems with it. at the moment I have many electrical issues ; power windows don't work, parking lights don't work, rear defogger doesn't work, dashboard lights don't work.
I have checked all my fuses and they all work, Does anyone know if there is more fuses that are hidden that might be the problem??

russincincy

I have a 2002 Sonata, and the check engine light came on for the gas cap also. I called the dealer, and they put it on their machine, and told me that the gas cap has to be turned to 3 clicks at least, otherwise the computer picks up a vapor problem.

russincincy

There are main engine fuses within the engine compartment. These fuses are housed in a large black fuse box. I believe the fuse box is marked with the number and type of fuse on top of the outside of the box. You definately need to contact your dealer about these problems. :sick:

russincincy

I have a 2002 Sonata that jerks on highway startup, and on the regular driving conditions. I didn't realize there was a TSB on this. I've been to the dealer 3 times about this problem, and they keep putting me off when I wanted the transmission reset to the original settings. I know this reset can be done, do to the dealer telling me it could within the computer chip on the transmission. Thanks for the Info. :shades:

russincincy

I took my 2002 Sonata in for a problem with the keyless entry locking itself. The dealer told me this is a condition within the system itself. He told me that it was a safety feature built into the system on my car. This is in case I unlock the car, and walk away, and forget to relock the car, the car will relock itself after so many seconds. I also had a 2000 Sonata with a similar problem. They replaced the whole system for me. You might want to ask the dealer if they will replace the system.

russincincy

Dear Karen, the normal idol speed on your Sonata should be 700 RPM after the startup idol drops itself down to the normal idol. I would check your manual. I have a 2002 Sonata, so the 2005 Sonata's might be timed differently. You manual should tell you the normal idol speed for your car. If its above, then have the dealer reset the idol for you.

russincincy

I have a 2002 Sonata that had a misfire problem. I started the car one day and it acted like the old carburtor cars used to do. I went to the bank, and turned the car off, restarted the car and it was fine, but the check engine light was on. I called the dealer, and they replaced my plugs and wires for my sonata also. This could be a common problem. :sick:

russincincy

I agree with rayh. I had a noise in my blower motor. The service people told me they didn't hear anything. I raised some heck about it, and luckily there was a guy that had been hearing noises for them for 21 years, so he went and got a manager and the manager finally heard the problem. The manager did tell me tho, that if leaves or debis were in there, it would be my charge. But he figured it was the blower motor, so they ordered a new one and replaced the old one. Now it works fine. Keep hounding the dealer, or try switching dealers, that's what I had to do. :sick:

larcan1

I would like to find out how to change the 3 back spark plugs on the 2003 Hyundai Sonata. The front 3 are easy to get to but the rear plugs are not

cuda71

When i turn the key to lock and remove it the steering wheel does not lock. Anyone have any ideas.

Thanks

jrct9454

Even if you turn the wheel a bit, like a quarter or half turn? There are notches built into the column that engage the lock, and there are only so many of them around the circumference of the shaft. None of the cars I've owned recently lock the wheel in the straight-ahead postion, but will if you move the wheel about a quarter turn or so.

dhyde3

Since posting my message on April 5th (starting to worry) concerning my 2004 Sonata with 4,600 miles, I have had the jumping in the Transmission happen again. To explain it more...It is one sudden severe grab as I accelerate from a stop to about 35mph. With my foot still pressing the gas pedal, it happens at about the same time as it would be going to the next gear. This is by no means a mere hesitation. This is a severe grab. This is the 5th time in six months of ownership. One of the times, it happened while going 60mph, and the other times were as I described above. I cannot re-produce this grab for the Service tech. It only happens about every three or four weeks. This cannot be normal. But how am I to get the service tech to do anything if they have never seen it happen? Has anyone else experienced this?

dvy

Folks, my 2005 Sonata GLS "Special Edition" seems to also have TCS, ABS and a digital-keyed engine disabler (if this helps diagnosis). I have only had it a couple of weeks now, and in the first couple of days I noticed:

WHEN HANDS ARE OFF THE WHEEL:
*** (1a) car VEERS to the right

WHEN SHIFTING INTO REVERSE ON AN INCLINE (CAR COLD OR COOL):
*** (2a) shifting is hard
*** (2b) a loud THUD sound
*** (2c) a sharp TACK sound from the engine area

WHEN SLOWING TO MAKE A TURN:
*** (3a) a "JUMP" upon acceleration out of the turn

The dealer mechanic could not "replicate" anything except the veering to the right, which he characterized as "mild" (1) Should I get this "mild" alignment issue taken care of now or later? (2) Anyone else have this hard shifting into R (and noise) on an incline issue? (3) The "jump" out of a turn is annoying, but is it damaging anything? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my first Hyundai, and I am very anxious seeing issues like this right off the bat Thanks!

ray h

"In the morning when I first start the engine, the idle speed is always high, in 1800 rpm range; will drop to 1200 rpm after 1/2 min. is this normal?
(idle will be normal after driving for 5 minutes. 750rpm)"

In a word: yes.

ray h

"By the way, where can I get a free owners manual?"

Legally? Get real. You can order and buy a replacement owner's manual through any Hyundai dealer. As far as adjusting the clock, unless there's been a substantial change in the procedure in the year 2000 models and later, it's a no-brainer - just turn the ignition key to the accesories "on" position to illuminate the clock display, press the "H" button below the clock display to advance the hours, and then press the "M" button to advance the minutes to the correct time - Done!

ray h

"I would like to find out how to change the 3 back spark plugs on the 2003 Hyundai Sonata. The front 3 are easy to get to but the rear plugs are not"

Why, it's EASY! All you need are six new platinum-tipped spark plugs, a new intake manifold gasket, several universal joint metric sockets, about 3 hours of sunlight, and an insanely even temperament (supplemented by a generous private stash of Prozac . . .). It also wouldn't hurt if you're 6'5" and endowed with the hand size of a dwarf. The intake manifold has to be partially disassembled to get to the firewall bank of spark plugs - one of the "joys" of maintaining many current overhead cam V6-powered front wheel drive cars! This is one job that when it's finally time on my Sonata, it'll be going back to a dealer - either a Hyundai dealer's service department, or a Honda or Toyota dealer as a trade-in on a new Accord or Camry 4-cylinder model!

ray h

"I have had the jumping in the Transmission happen again. To explain it more...It is one sudden severe grab as I accelerate from a stop to about 35mph. With my foot still pressing the gas pedal, it happens at about the same time as it would be going to the next gear. This is by no means a mere hesitation. This is a severe grab."

Normally these Hyundai automatic trannies are models of smooth decorum. Take the car to ANOTHER Hyundai dealer and explain the situation.* There's a TSB (technical service bulletin) out regarding some 2002 and later Sonatas with V-6 engines which exhibit this harsh 2-3 shift anomaly. The same TSB also directs the tech how to reprogram the transmission control module (depending on which TCM your car has - it'll be indicated by build date and VIN**) with revised firmware they can download from Hyundai. Once they have the firmware revision downloaded, the installation process to the TCM takes less than 15 minutes.

*The reason for not going back to your selling dealer? Some Hyundai dealers just flat out don't give a flyin' fig whether you're satisfied with their warranty service or not.

**My 2003 Sonata played grabby (as in the tranny pounded into 3rd gear when cold!) on the initial 2-3 upshift after cold start, but I didn't have the suspect TCM. However, now that I have nearly 14,000 miles on the clock, I've noticed the initial cold startout 2-3 upshift has gotten considerably smoother. Go figure . . .

ray h

"WHEN HANDS ARE OFF THE WHEEL:
*** (1a) car VEERS to the right

WHEN SHIFTING INTO REVERSE ON AN INCLINE (CAR COLD OR COOL):
*** (2a) shifting is hard
*** (2b) a loud THUD sound
*** (2c) a sharp TACK sound from the engine area

WHEN SLOWING TO MAKE A TURN:
*** (3a) a "JUMP" upon acceleration out of the turn"

1> Road crown pull (gravity rears its ugly head) - more noticeable on some makes than others. I came from an Accord, and the Sonata is no where near the road car the Accord was.

2> Not a clue, though I would suggest checking, or having checked, the transmission fluid level. (If you do this yourself, read the owner's manual carefully on the proper procedure. If you need to add fluid, Hyundai, KIA, or Mitsubishi SP-III fluid ONLY! There are NO acceptable normal retail channel aftermarket fluids because Mitsubishi, the proprietary license holder, won't play nice.)

3> Normal - the transmission's merely downshifting to the next lower gear - probably 1st. Use a feather-light foot when applying throttle coming out of slow speed turns - you're not hurting anything, but easy throttle application may avoid an unnecessary and annoying downshift.

dhyde3

Hey Ray,
Thanks for the info on the TSB for the Sonata that addresses the harsh shift. My car has been at the Dealer for a few days, while the Service Tech drives it, trying to replicate the issue. (They gave me a 2005 Sonata to drive, which does not have any of the issues that they are telling me is normal.) I called them today, and mentioned the TSB. He responded' "I was just going to mention that to you...the tech is checking into that TSB now, to see if it will apply to your issue." They sound sincere about wanting to help me. There are so many issues that I have had with this car in six month, I am loosing faith in this beautiful car that I fell in love with. I hope I don't have a :lemon:
My Husband just bought a 2005 Nissan Titan. Have had it a month, and not had so much as a minutes annoyance. Anyway, thanks for the help.

dvy

Ray,

Much obliged for the help!

1> Road crown pull (gravity rears its ugly head)
THIS actually turned out to be an alignment problem! Although I had this fixed, now the car is making odd "groaning" sounds. Sheesh.

2> Not a clue, though I would suggest checking, or having checked, the transmission fluid level. (If you do this yourself, read the owner's
CHECKED, but no fluid level issue. The heavy shifting has "softened" somewhat after almost a month now, but it still cracks on an incline when going from Park to Reverse.

3> Normal - the transmission's merely downshifting to the next lower
I SHOULD mention that the "jump" is more of a "BUMP". The transmission seems to shift to 2ND gear way too early, at about 15MPH. Also when I decelerate to 20-15MPH, then try to accelerate, I get this same "BUMP".

(4) Incidental noises:
I keep noticing loud "thumping" sounds from the trunk area, but nothing is loose INSIDE the trunk. Also, the aircon unit is starting to "whine". Anyone else have these issues? May the lord have mercy upon me.

dvy

Hmmm ... I seem to be having the same problem at about 15-20MPH, rather than 35MPH. The internal transmission shifting is very harsh from 1ST to 2ND gear, causing a lurch, although I would not classify this as "pounding". All other shifts are much smoother, though still noticeable. I actually have a 2005 model, and you say that the 2005 model you borrowed was OK? On top of this, I have weird thumping trunkspace noises, groaning wheels, and whining AC. My wife's friend has a 2004 Sonata without a single problem, so good lord, buy maybe I have the OTHER :lemon:

njdevil

we had a 2003 sonata that did what your car is doing . The dealership cleared the transmission control module adaptive learning memory. by doing that it will restart the program. we did not have any problems after that. try it, hopefully it will work for you

ray h

Good point, njdevil, though you don't need the dealer to clear the memorized shift-point/quality algorithms*. You can do that yourself merely by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for ~20 seconds. You might also wanna write down your radio station presets beforehand since they'll have to be re-programmed back in manually.

*Hyundai ATs, like virtually all other makes' ATs, use adaptive learning technology which to allows the TCM to "home-in" on the driving habits of the driver over a month or two. Great for a car driven principally by the same driver or multiple drivers with similar driving characteristics - but, maybe not so great in the case of a car piling miles more or less equally by both members of a Dale Ernheart-Wannabe/Susie Soccer-Mommy family. (Hey, they do say opposites attract . . .)

njdevil

there is more to that. when we bought this car in nov. 2002 the fun started. when it had 50 miles on it, the car made a loud noise, the rpm went up to 6 and the transmission got stuck in 2nd. luckily we were going less than 40 . the check engine light would go on. after bringing it back to the dealer five times thats how many times it happened, we called customer service. we had the transmission replaced when it had 4,600 miles. : the dealership did go out of its way to fix the problem.but it was just one of those things. it was the new transmission that had the same problem as you. we no longer have this car. we traded it for a 2005 elantra with manual transmission

miranda9802

I have a 2000 hyundai sonata I've had since the end of 2003. A few months ago the air went out but its my husbands car he takes to work and it was winter so we didn't really need it that much. Its been getting hot here and we had it checked out to see what was up with it and they said that there is a "tiny" hole in the compressor (they said it would take frion (sp?) 2 years to leak all the way out. There is a big leak in the evaporator though. My husband knows how much this is gonna cost and would like to see if he can do it himself. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or diagrams that we can use.

Thanks

Mirandalink title

dvy

Ray, I would love to try what you just described! Seems easy enough to unplug the negative electrode for 20 secs, but I wonder if I will violate my warranty somehow. Given my current experience, I will NEED my warranty intact.

lastwraith

Unplugging your negative cable is not going to void your warranty unless Kia/Hyundai have some very strange practices. Otherwise changing you battery would be very impossible, among other things. Especially considering that just about any parts replacement even remotely involving your electrical system begins with the step: "unplug negative battery terminal".

good luck

instigator17

Can anyone give me tips on changing the fog lights on a 2003 Hyundai Sonata. I can't find anything on it in the manual. I am especially frustrated with the removing plastic piece that is covering it without permanently removing it.

Thanks

Nick

cwahmjill

My battery died last week and now my key fab won't work. Is there an easy way to reset it?

lastwraith

The only reason I'm posting this is because the Sante Fe is based loosely on the Sonata platform so this may possibly be of some help. If not, then at least you were warned

http://www.geocities.com/elusor/install/oemfoglmp.htm?200516

**just for the record, it's a key "fob". Maybe an owner can come to your aid and tell you how to reset?

instigator17

Maybe I should clarify. The bulb in the fog light burned out so I need to replace it. The fog lights are factory installed and there is no info in the owners manual on how to access it.

Thanks!

dvy

Unplugged the negative cable of the Sonata battery and gave it a good 5 minutes to unjuice the circuits. The problems I spoke of previously (hesitation in 1st gear, hard shifts, difficulty shifting from P to R on an incline) still persist, but seem to have lessened. THE HESITATION IN GEAR CHANGE FROM 1ST TO 2ND SEEMS TO HAVE SUBSIDED REMARKABLY!

Still, on an incline, letting go of the accelerator then quickly pressing it again continues to consistently produce a "clunk" from the transmission. Also, moving the shifter to change gears on even the most minutely unlevel surface produces a "clunk". This does not seem to happen on a very level surface. WHAT GIVES?

Finally, when I turn the engine on, put the car into D, and press the accelerator normally, there are a couple of seconds of weird groaning and whirring and vibration that I can even feel on the accelerator pedal a few seconds after the car has started to move. This does NOT happen if I really SLOWLY accelerate the car. I do not remember if the car did this before the alignment job or not. My last vehicle, a Jeep Grand Cherokee, did not do this,so I am quite puzzled. IS THIS NORMAL FOR SONATAS? WHAT IS CAUSING THE SOUND/VIBES?

Thanks for the help, ray, lastwraith, and you all

bartbikerw

Hello everyone,

I have a problem with the plastic cover of the digital clock on my 2 year old sonata. Since I have bought it I have noticed increasing number of scratches on the digital clock face. At first I though one of the car wash people scratched it up when wiping the interior down. Then I cleaned the interior myself since then and the scratches kept on increasing. I use a soft cloth for the interior and I am especially gentle on that clock. It seems that the material is very soft because even if you touch it with your nail it leaves a mark. Now it looks like somebody cleaned it with that rough surface that you use on a sponge to clean the dishes. It looks very bad. I know if I go to the dealer they will say that I have scratched it up but it seems like it should be me more durable, especially that there are no markings on the plastic covers over the odometer or the radio. Should I press the dealer to exchange the clock?

doobie4

Hi,

I have a 2002 sonata that I bought in '03 as a demo. I've written before about my wacky locks which still haven't been fixed right (" if it doesn't do it when we see it we can't order parts. Maybe your accuator is going bad.") Now, over the past couple of weeks I've noticed my car will hesitate when I first use it in the morning. What I mean is I'll step on the gas and it takes a second and then all of a sudden it "catches" and will lurch forward and drive. I then usually don't have a problem with it again until it sits for a while --- hours later or the next day. So I know if I take it to the dealer it won't do it for them, as it will be warmed up, and they won't do anything about it. I'm going to take it to my regular mechanic as it needs the oil changed and a wheel alignment, but it bugs me that for a car under warrantee I'll probably end up paying to fix it. The car only has 34,000 miles on it and,yes, I did get my trans fluid changed at 30,000 by the dealer. I don't know if it could be the fuel injector or O2 sensor or what. Does anyone else have this problem? Also, about 6 months ago I kept smelling oil burning. Took it to the dealer and they replaced my rocker gasket which was leaking. I'm really ready to trade this thing in and get something else. The only thing holding me back is we're trying to sock away money to move in a couple of years. However, the longer I wait the more it depreciates. HELP!!!

mlinark

Having power loss between 2500-3000 rpms even if transmission is shifted into neutral and acellerator still pressed. down. At times all the instrument lights will come on and car will not move.

mlinark

Did you ever solve your problem? We have a 2000, and are going to a Hyundai, dealer tomorrow have it put on an anylizer and checking the computer sensor, because we are having powerloss, similiar to yours. Ours has power loss between 2500-3000 rpm's even when the car is placed in neutral. The rpm's will not increase until you back offf the accelerator for 20-30 seconds and at times all the instrument panel lites will come on.

fsf

Hi.

I owned a new 2002 4-cylinder Sonata for a year that was trouble free. I upgraded to a 2003 GLS, and I've had nothing but headaches with it ever since.

I've brought my car to the dealer 4 times now, and they still haven't fixed the transmission "thunking" issue. They told me, "It's normal for a transmission to have slop in the system." YEAH RIGHT! They said I needed to have the transmission oil replaced, even though it only had 26,000 miles. I was told "it looks very dirty". $200 later, the transmsiision thunks more than ever.

Another major gripe: Rattling/creeky doors. That is, whenever I stop, start, or pulsate the brake, both driver doors go "crreeeeeek" like an old rusted hinge.

Today, I'm waiting to have my car towed as my alarm siren is stuck on and will not turn off! It's pouring rain and I've ruined my suit trying to get it disconnected for over an hour. I disconnected the battery after struggling with my Swiss army knife for 15 minutes, mangling my hand. As soon as I reconnect the battery, "REEE REEE REEE REEE!!!"

I'm ready to call it a loss and sell my Sonata. I used to gloat and brag about them, but now I'm at the point that I HATE Hyundais. If this doesn't get resolved now, I'm DONE with Hyundai. I'll go back to expensive Honda models that went trouble free for well over 100,000 miles. They aren't near as good of a deal, but at least I'm not having my car towed on a regular basis either.

FSF
(former Sonata fan)

sonatabob

fsf-
Please don't go away mad. Sonata's overall have proven to be very trouble-free and reliable and it's awful what you've been going through. Did you acquire the '03 brand-new because all those problems lead one to believe that it may have been a previously abused, damaged or salvaged vehicle. Perhaps it was in a flood and the electrical system is compromised and those noisy hinges really ARE rusty! If you bought it used a title/vin search would show its history. Your transmission trouble sounds like it's been abused or overworked. Perhaps it's towed something over the recommended weight? This is all speculation but worth investigating.
If you do go to Honda be aware that their newer vehicles have had move recalls than Hyundai. And always be aware that a used vehicle, no matter what the make and repair history for the model should have a repair history done before purchase. Caveat Emptor is and always should be your code when purchasing used vehicles. Good luck and don't worry...this too shall pass.

lastwraith

It's all well and good to be a Hyundai lover, but saying that Honda has had more recalls is just silly.

The number of recalls on a car has little if anything to do with the quality of the vehicle...unless there is an inordinate number of serious issues.

Besides that, the numbers bear out the fact that for the most part Honda autos are bulletproof along with their rival Toyota brethren.

sonatabob

"The number of recalls on a car has little if anything to do with the quality of the vehicle" -lastwraith

...hmmm, you don't suppose they recall cars just because they miss seeing you at the dealer, do you...?

While it is true that not each and every recall is an indication that the vehicle is unreliable, dangerous or doomed to a problematic future, recalls DO indicate that something on the car needs to be redone or retrofitted to meet Federal safety standards. In the sense that "fsf" wants to get into a vehicle that will keep him on the road more and out of the repair shop, Honda is certainly a make to look at. My point is that "fsf's" has just as much chance that another Hyundai will be as good a choice as a Honda.

car_siao

I think it would be impossible for you to replace your evaporator because you do not have the refrigerant tank, pressure guages to charge up your system after evaporator replcement.Leakage in the compressor normally calls for a rebuilt or new one.By the way changing air con gas in some countries in illegal because freon is a ozone depleting gas.

car_siao

2>The reason why shifting is hard, a loud THUD sound, a sharp TACK sound from the engine area WHEN SHIFTING INTO REVERSE ON AN INCLINE (CAR COLD OR COOL):
I would assume that you put your gear lever in park. And that explains all becos the whole weight of your vehicle is rested on the parking pawl, a safety mechanism that prevents the car from rolling when engaged.
It always happens on an incline no matter hot or cold, shifting in whatever gear position from PARK if you do not pull up your handbrake hard enough.
SOLUTION: With the engine still on, depress brake then pull up handbrake 3/4 high then shift into park. This will stop vehicle from rolling thus putting pressure on the parking pawl.