Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

zlfanatic

So far my Sonata has shifted smoothly after the service, time will tell. Another problem it was in for was, if the lights where turned on a knocking noise could be heard in the dash, the noise would stop when you turned off the lights,I was told the problem would be corrected when a part was replaced, which they had to order, anyone else had this problem.

ray h

Interesting... Can you describe more about the "knock" sound? Is it in sync with the engine revs? (That is, does the "knock" frequency speed up if you apply slight pressure to the accelerator pedal?) I've had what I just described since day one, but never bothered about it - it only occurs in gear at idle - once I shift into neutral and turn the headlights off, it's no longer audible. I just figured it was a bit of harmless piston slap when the engine labors against the accessories a bit at idle. It also occured to me that one of the hydraulic valve lash adjusters might bleed down slightly at idle speed, too - it seemd a bit more prominent when I used 5W-30 oil during the break-in. I changed the factory fill oil and filter out at 600 miles to 5W-30, then went back to 10W-30 at the 3,000 mile oil and filter change. (I like to get any remaining factory leftover machining crud out early on. The engine assemblers are pretty carefull about post-machining cleanup, but that doesn't mean they get it all.) Let us know what part is to be replaced after your dealer tends to it.

zlfanatic

The sound is not coming from the engine, its coming from the dash area.I know, I know, what could be making the sound and have it connected to the headlight, I will let ya,ll know when the dealer calls with the part.

deedee44

i have just read this board and im not so sure i should be buying this car,, is there any good sonatas out there,,, im fixing to buy one and im scared i will have all these problems,,

danf1

You are reading messages in a problems and solutions board. Not too many people with trouble free cars in here. A car consists of over 14,000 parts operating in harsh environments at extreme temperatures and is assembled by human beings. If any car is 99.9% perfect, you could still expect to have 14 different problems with it.

ray h

Do as you determine is best for you, deedee44. As for myself, in forty-three years of driving, I've yet to find the mythical trouble-free car. What I have found in my 2003 Sonata is a fundementally well-designed and executed car that compares favorably with my last ride - a 1996 Honda Accord. To that end, I've had exactly ONE warranty claim - a trivial replacement of the dome light assembly in the roof due to a defective switch. Hyundai also recalled my car to install an additional fuel shut-off valve to protect against fire or explosion in the event of a rollover. We're not posting in this section to convince people such as yourself to buy Sonatas, but rather, to explore the occasional problems and solutions that can beset any make. Why are you here?

jr2571

We have a 2004 black GLS V6 with 11,000 miles and we are having trouble with these rust spots. Very troubling. The paint and clearcoat seem impossibly weak/cheap. Any suggestions and any others with htis problem?

ray h

Yeah, contact the dealer (and Hyundai if necessary) and raise holy heck. Hyundai will repaint if you make enough stink, but you have to get on this before 12,000 miles/1 yr. is up. Also, don't be afraid to go to BBB arbitration. It's all detailed in your warranty supplement booklet.

lisajd

I have a 2003 Sonata 4 Cyl. During the summer and now as winter approaches, the blower does not always work. It does not matter if it is on a/c, heat, or just fan, internal or external air, at low or high. The blower sounds like its working, but no air is coming out of the vents. I took it to one dealer who suggested that I was imagining it. My husband also experienced the same problem, so it is not in my head. I took it to another dealer who told me they could do nothing unless they could duplicate it, and they could not. They also said they have never heard of this problem. It can not work for a few minutes, a few hours, when its cold, when I've been driving it for a long time, it is quite inconsistent. While driving without the a/c was uncomfortable, driving without the defrost or heat could be dangerous. Any ideas?

Thanks. Lisajd

ray h

Sounds like either an intermittant obstruction in the fan casing*, or a faulty switch/control unit. A clogged cabin filter is a possibility, too, but I'd think in that case, the obstruction would be constant. I'd find another dealer who's not afraid to do some good ol' fashioned investigating instead of shining you on. If it's a mechanical or electrical malfunction, it should be covered under your 5 yr./60,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty.

 

*"critters" (usually rodents) have been known to nest and take up residence inside the fan casing. (Don't ask how they get in there - I don't know, either.) Any peculiar odors? If it's deadbeat boarders, it'll be on your nickel, though.

killerk

My overdrive won't kick in. I got 2000 GLS pkg 13 w/ 76K on it.

 

My drives are mostly local (under 45mph).

I usually hit the highway on the wknds.

 

Here's the thing though. The CE light came up 3 days ago on the way back from work. I figured/hoped that it was just the gas cap issue (even though my last fill was a several days ago) and not something like O2 sensor or worse. I didn't notice any odd behavior. But the following morning the light went away. "Great," I said.

 

But at night it returned again (This is 2 day ago). I figured I'll fill up the tank and make sure that the cap was tight.

 

And the light stayed lit yesterday.

 

The light was still on this morning, but didn't think much of it since in the past, it'd last for a few days for gas cap issues. But I had to hit the highway this AM. But I noticed that when I passed 45mph, the rpm won't drop. I figured perhaps the engine wasn't warmed up yet even though I had driven for 5 minutes at this point.

 

I'm in North Jersy and it's getting a little cold up here.

 

But throughout the 20 min of highway driving, the rmp never dropped. I maintained 55~60mph and my tachometer was at or above 3,000rpm instead of typical 2,300~2,400.

 

I've done all my service at the dealer ship and last tranny service was around 30~35K. The dealer called a "minor" transmission mainteance. Not sure exactly what this "minor" work was.

 

And the latest work was done at 75K (abt a month ago) and at time they topped off all fluids and they did one of those "visual" checks on the car.

 

I was planning on "major" tranny maintenance at 90K service.

 

I know I should be under warranty but this is aggravating me.

 

Do you guys think this is actual "mechanical" tranny problem or could that CE be the culprit like where maybe ECM's messed up???

 

Anyway, I'm gonna bring the car in tomorrow and will let you know.

 

BTW, I have this driving habit: I have my gear in "3" when I do the local driving (at or under 45), which is a bulk of my driving.

 

I'll shift up to "D" when I know I'll be hitting the highway. I do this when I'm at the stop sign before getting onto the highway.

 

But sometimes I'll forget and shift up to "D" while I'm on the highway...

ray h

Could be the ECM. Could be the TCM. Could be various sensors in either the engine or the transmission. Could be the transmission. Could be all of the above. Could be none of the above. Since the car's under 10 years and 100,000 miles, it's definitely Hyundai's problem.

 

(I think we can safely rule out the gas cap...)

killerk

It turned out to be a faulty "Speed input sensor switch." That's why my Overdrive was going in and out.

 

The service rep said that my hardware (tranny) itself was fine. It was just the sensor not providing the correct speed.

 

Thankfully, it was covered under warranty, but I did have to wait almost 5 hours while it was getting serviced.

 

I brought the car in at 7:30. That's why I rcvd such a "quick" service. Otherwise, I could've been stuck there longer!

 

Well, I wish everyone a Blessed and Happy New Year!!!

excel88

The "CEL" problem arose yesterday evening, but was/is accompanied by rough running. Called the dealer for suggestions as to what to look for (low oil, coolant, etc.) to prevent damage from driving the car, but was told they'd have to look at it first. They can't fit me in until next week. Can any of you fine folks out there tell me if the car is drivable (my coolant reservoir was almost empty, but filling it hasn't helped) without being further damaged? The dealer is about 5 miles from my home.

 

Should I rent a car in the meantime?

excel88

Sorry, but I forgot to mention in my previous posting that it's a 2000 Sonata, package 13 with 14,000 miles.

killerk

Hmmm, I also have 2000 pkg 13, but have 76K so far.

 

All the CEL light issues I had were:

1. loose gas cap

2. bad O2 sensors

3. bad "speed-input switch" as per my prev post.

 

But none of these CEL issues were accompanied by "rough" running. I would try not to drive around.

 

Hey, others out there, can't excel88 call the Roadside Assistance and have the car towed in to the dealer? And don't they HAVE to look at the car ASAP when it's towed in???

ray h

If the engine is running rough and there's evidence of coolant leakage, I would NOT back that car out of the garage let alone drive it five miles to the dealer. The state of fill of the overflow reservoir is the least of your problems. Worst case scenario? Remove the radiator cap (engine off and COLD!). If coolant isn't visible, and filling the radiator until it is visible takes a LOT of water, the damage may already have been done. You could have a blown head gasket - if you're lucky*, or a cracked block and/or cylinder head - if you're not. A rough-running engine unfortunately suggests either coolant is being drawn into the combustion chamber(s) due to a leak, or loss of compression in one or more cylinders for the same reason. If present, white exhaust pipe "smoke" at idle indicates that coolant is being drawn into one or more cylinders during the intake stroke and then expelled through the tail pipe during the exhaust stroke. Not a good thing. Hopefully things are not that dire, but I still wouldn't take chances driving the car until it can be checked out properly. Good luck.

 

*a relative term - still an expensive proposition if it's on your nickel...

superjesr

My 2003 Sonata runs great - good gas mileage (average 30 mpg between city and highway) and no particular problem (to date). The only issue is that it seems to have (what I consider) excessive vibration when idling in gear (it is an automatic). When I put it in Park or Neutral - most of the vibration seems to disappear. I did notice that the idle speed seemed a little high - probably close to 750 rpm. - but suspect that it computer controlled and cannot be adjusted.

excel88

Finally got the car to the dealer. Supposedly, the CEL is either an 02 sensor or a spark plug wire, and the rough running is caused by the ignition. They said the timing belt is worn and should be changed, to the tune of $400. Wouldn't this come under at least the 5 year, 60,000 mile warranty? I'm not being cheap here, and I'll pay any valid charge, but does this sound right to you folks?

 

Thanks for your responses.

riez

How old is your car? How many miles?

 

Hyundai says you have to change the timing belt every 60K or 4 years/48 months, whichever comes first. Or sooner if it is showing signs of serious wear. A cost of owning the car. (Now if you have an '03 with 20,000 miles and they say it is worn, that is a different issue.)

 

I replaced the belt on my '00 Sonata GLS V6 5-speed back in June--at 49 months/52,000 miles.

 

Timing belt is like your tires or your windshield wiper blades, a maintenance wear item.

 

Things like defective O2 sensors or spark plug wires should be maintenance items, esp. during the initial bumper-to-bumper period.

excel88

Riez,

 

You're right. And thanks. The car's a 2000 GLS with 14,200+ miles. My wife couldn't understand the service department's explanation of the charge and was becoming aggravated. So I called Customer Assistance and was directed to the owner's manual (page 5-5) maintenance chart and there it was. So, not only does it pay to read the manual but also this web site!

 

Thanks again.

excel88

Riez,

 

You're right. And thanks. The car's a 2000 GLS with 14,200+ miles. My wife couldn't understand the service department's explanation of the charge and was becoming aggravated. So I called Customer Assistance and was directed to the owner's manual (page 5-5) maintenance chart and there it was. So, not only does it pay to read the manual but also this web site!

 

I just thought of another question. The rental agency only had a Santa Fe available for us to use while the Sonata was undrivable. I found it very comfortable and, surprisingly for a rental, great on gas mileage. Due to physical problems, it's becoming increasingly more difficult for my wife to enter and exit the Sonata comfortably. When the Sonata was ready, I gave the Tucson a quick glance before leaving the dealership. From what the saleswoman told me, it's slightly smaller than the Santa Fe and, unless I misunderstood her, not much differently priced than the Santa Fe. She also said I could get a better deal price-wise on a leftover Santa Fe. The basic issue for us is the higher seating. We don't do a lot of hauling or need the extra space. Does anyone out there have any advice/suggestions on these two vehicles? Other makes or models?

 

Thanks again.

danf1

With current incentives, you should be able to get a leftover 2.7l Santa Fe for about the same price as the Tucson. It is bigger and in my opinion more comfortable than the Tucson.

riez

While it is modified, underneath the older Santa Fe is a based on the current Sonata platform. Use same V6 engine, transmission, etc. Both of Hyundai's SUVs are car based. The new Tucson is related to the Elantra.

ray h

Depending on which state the car is operated in, an O2 sensor might be covered under the emissions warranty...

duke158

I had the same problem! My dealer kept telling me the same thing. There is a fix.... Hyundai recalled this part some time ago. Some thermostat or do hicky was placed to close to the A/C and it would freeze. Because it would freeze the thermostat would think the car was cooled and would turn off. After it got a chance to unfreeze the A/C would work again until it froze again. I ended up getting it fixed at a dealer in another state who knew what was going on. Good luck and I hope this helps. I know how fusterated I was.

rseidel

I have a 2002 Sonata. Just had the brakes, pads replaced on front and back. When I went to pick up my car, in order to shift (automatic) I had to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. The service department told me this is normal. I don't think so. Any one else experiencing this?

scameron

Hello,

I have a 4 cyl automatic that when in 3rd gear, accellerates poorly up to ~3800 RPM then kicks in and accellerates well. It's a dramatic kick, not just the engine hitting it's powerband. The car also stumbles and feels like it's fuel starved randomly, then recovers. We've had it in to the dealer 4 times over the last 3 years and they can find nothing wrong. Any Ideas??

bozyczko

Hi, I own a 1999 Sonata GLS. Last week, the battery died. Had a tough time locating a new battery since the posts are reversed from 'normal' ones.

After installing the new battery, noticed that neither of my key fobs worked. Contacted dealership. They said that they needed to be 'reprogrammed' and this was not covered by my warranty ( over 5 years old ).

Anyone else have this problem when changing the battery with the key fobs? THANKS.

bozyczko

Hi I have to hold the brake pedal down on my 99 sonata gls to get the car out of park as well. This is a saety feature and is normal.

codata99

This TSB tells you how to program the remote code into the receiver(assuming the car has the port-installed security system).

 

http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394881749#_394881- 749

codata99

you had those for the last 3 years... You really need to take it to a dealer who knows what they are doing...call Hyundai to file a complaint against the dealer...have you had the upper timing belt cover replaced?

 

Have the stumbling issue addressed ASAP if you want to avoid a catastrophic engine failure...can happen any day now.

 

WHat's the current mileage?

apgaind

I have a 2001 Sonata and the blower just stopped working. If I press the A/C button, the light does not go on so I thought it may be a blown fuse but couldn't find one. Any ideas on how I can olve this?

Thanks

criptor

I own a 99 Sonata and recently I've been noticing that when my car is idling, the oil light will begin to flicker on and off. I've checked the oil level and everything checks out to be ok. The car doesn't seem to be idling at low RPM's either. This only happens when the car is idling, not when it is in motion. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what it might be? Thanks

bozyczko

Thanks for the info and the link. If I'm reading this right, only the dealership can do the re-programming since the valet switch is needed?

codata99

Your car has a valet switch.

bozyczko

Thanks again. Can you tell me where the valet switch is located?

codata99

First of all, you need to make sure that you car indeed has the port-installed, Hyundai-branded security system. Call Hyundai Motor America to inquire about this and the location of the switch. Have the VIN handy when you call them.

psdhyndiownr

Has any body had a poblem with their 04 sonata with engine oil usage. My sonata had a small oil leak and i took it to the dealer. I noticed the problem when the oil light flickered and turned off. so, i stop and checked my oil and nothing seemed wrong but i added a 1/2 pint b/c it seemed low. so i took it to the dealer and they told me i had a blown engine which was crap. They said the oil fliter was knocked off but i put a 1/2quart of oil in my car. the oil would just have run out of the engine. so i had a different mechanic look at the car and everything was fine other then the engine sucking up more oil then it needed. does any body have any answers?

psdhyndiownr

i do in my 04 sonata i noticed it right before i hit the gas

edlo

Hello,
I made several comments in the past with regards to "CEL" light constantly going on and not related to Loose gas cap. I always had reading stating it was either a O2 sensor , MAF sensor, even idle speed sensor, I even had tech change the Electronic control module (ECM)of the car. Now everything appears to working find since Novembers last diagnostic workup. My question now is Hyundai's are known to have a sensitive "CEL" go off when the gas cap is to loose or not placed porperly, which when you take it in for service the dealer will charge you $85 for the Diagnostic workup since gas cap errors are not covered.
Strangely however this weekend I stopped to fill up my tank and totally forgot to replace the gas cap. I drove about 15 mile home without a "CEL" going off to warn me until I discovered it in the next morning. No light.
Is it possible my dealer disconnected this feature or ? How can I prove it?

banditboy

My 2000 GLS/77k is bucking and locking into 3rd gear.Once i switch off and remove the key the CEL light goes off and car rus with no problem for a few days.

I just flushed the tranny with sonata sp3 oil from a dealer.....

i just spend a 1000$ for front rotors,2 front bearings and transmission flush this month... i am outta of ideas.

lastwraith

That's a lot of money. If the car is locking up into 3rd (limp-home mode) then you have a problem.
Unless Hyundais are drastically strange for some reason, AutoZone or the like should be able to pull an error code from your car for free. Cheaper than having Hyundai do it and then worrying whether it will eventually end up that you have to pay for it.

Get the codes and address the specific problem...saves you $

Good luck!

banditboy

I just payedoff the car and was looking for a year of no car payments .... well
i am going to drive it for a few weeks to see if the problem goes away/i will stop by in autozone .If this is a sign of a tranny failing i will trading it in.

i am certainly disappointed , but it did give me no problem for 76k miles and took alot of abuse.

lastwraith

You should either disconnect the negative battery terminal for a bit or remove the ECU/TCU fuses to reset the computer and clear the CEL/error codes. That will get you out of "stuck-in-third" mode until the car throws an error and puts you back in limp-mode. If you get an error immediately and are stuck in limp-mode again, you should get that car to a mechanic and not just AutoZone.

good luck

1racefan

Am I missing something here? Isn't the transmission covered for 10yrs / 100K?

lastwraith

Yes, but from what I understand to get a error code diagnosis from Hyundai they charge you up front and then only cover the cost themselves if it turns out to be a warranty issue. AutoZone will do the check for free and then depending on what the error is will dictate where the car goes for repair.

These are all things he can quickly do to see if it's a recurring problem. If it is, it would be wise to bring it in for service immediately.

I could be mistaken about the Hyundai checking policy perhaps...

1racefan

I don't know about the code check policy either. But, I wouldn't be so quick to get rid of a car that was paid for because of a transmission problem, if the transmission was still covered under warranty. The free check at AutoZone is a good idea. I guess if it really is a transmission problem, you would have to show proof that the transmission fluid had been changed according to the intervals that Hyundai suggests in order for them to repair / replace it under warranty. Even if he had to pay Hyundai for a diagnostic check, that is cheaper than a new car payment.

banditboy

The problem is when i turn the key off and restart the CEL is gone.Also the battery died and i put a new one and flushed the transmission less than 100 miles ago and it jumped into third/CEL. I pulled over switched off and started and drove the next 60 miles with no problem.

I remember reading that the computer stores the last 10 error codes so i will goto autozone and get the code as first step.I am from boston and if i somehow get it to end of april then i can use my motorcycle for commuting and fix the car .

mnolan3313

I just bought a 2005 Sonata this past Saturday, and I have noticed a popping noise in the passenger seat, only when someone is riding in that seat. I wondered if anyone else had noticed this?

Thanks.