Hyundai Sonata Care and Maintenance

kjmrit

I just bought V6 Sonata GLS. Do I need to do a break in with driving habits? The salesman says no. I need expert opinion!

ray_h71

Congratulations!!! I have the same engine and am very well satisfied with its performance and economy. I won't claim expert status, but I will share my experieinces. Remember one thing: the salesman isn't making your payments. That said, there is honest debate over the need to follow any type of break in procedure on current engines. It's true that the bearings are micro-finished, the piston skirts are often coated with molybdenum, and molybdenum-containing assembly lubes are generously slathered on anything that moves (and a few things too slow to get out of the way...) during build. But, it's also true that Hyundai advises on page three of the Sonata owner's manual (presumably the layout is the same as for the 2003 models) to keep speeds 55 mph or lower during the first 1,200 miles and frequently change speeds to aid ring seating. I went the extra mile and adhered to the guide (painful as it was - sure saw a lot of middle fingers...). I also changed out the factory fill oil and oil filter at 600 miles to flush any remaining core sand and machining flash that had washed into the pan. The next oil change occurred at 3,000 miles and I've maintained that interval on the subsequent two changes and plan to stay with it. During the first 600 miles, I used about a 1/2 quart of oil - not unusual since that's when the lion's share of ring seating occurs. Since then, I've seen no noticeable drop in oil level on the dipstick between changes. My fuel mileage started out disappointing - about 19 mpg in town and 25 hwy. It slowly improved and now averages 25 mpg in town and 32 hwy. This engine was apparently set to "tight" clearances from the factory. From my own experience, I'd say it's a good bet that following Hyundai's advice now will pay dividends down the road. You didn't ask but I'll volunteer that I've settled in with Chevron Supreme or Havoline 10W-30 motor oil (whichever's selling for less when I need oil). Havoline is now part of the same corporate family since Chevron acquired Texaco ~two years ago. I also run WIX #1626 oil filters. These are considerably larger, with nearly 50% more filtration medium than the factory filters, but carry the same flow and overpressure bypass rates. They also allow the use of exactly 5 quarts of oil at change time.

flameout00

Just turned 3000 miles in my '04 Sonata. Had the oil changed at about 1500, going to get it done again in a day or so.
The car seems to run fine, but I have two major complaints. My fuel economy and the bad shifting auto trans.
My best fuel economy so far has been about 17.2 mpg in the city. Well below what I was hoping, especially after reading about other MPG ("My fuel mileage started out disappointing - about 19 mpg in town and 25 hwy. It slowly improved and now averages 25 mpg in town and 32 hwy") <--Like that one.
Now the transmission. Not sure if all the Sonatas (V6 models) shift like this. but going up a steep grade hill, My tach will be on about 4 and I'll be going over 40 mpg and it won't shift out of 2nd gear. Even on flat surfaces, 2nd gear will really wind out, well past 3 on the tach. Sometimes the only way to get it to shift if to manually shift it. This is a major problem to me, becasue this can't be to good for the engine. Maybe these cars are better suited for flat terrain state, not Western PA. Anyone else having transmission problems? (I've had many cars, and none ever shifted like this_

ray_h71

Your transmission's reluctance to shift out of 2nd gear and poor mileage showing to date might well be a problem. And no engine's gonna return its best fuel mileage if the trannie's stuck in 2nd gear too much of the time. These transmissions have the latest gee-whiz adaptive learning technology that tailors their performance to driving technique, but after 3,000 miles the dumby should've learned. Have you brought this anomaly to the attention of your dealer? Has the transmission fluid level been checked since you took delivery of your Sonata? If so, and if the service writer said they all do that, it's baloney. Demand to talk to the service manager and/or the general manager, and if need be, take your ailing car to another Hyundai dealer if possible. Also demand to have the parking brakes checked. These cars, though they have rear disc brakes, also incorporate a "top-hat" small drum for the parking brake. If the parking brakes are misadjusted and dragging, the symptoms could be -exactly- as you described, though a faulty trannie could mimic the symptoms, too. Finally, though I hesitate to bring this up, are you sure you're selecting the right driving mode for fully automatic operation? The shift lever needs to remain directly adjacent to the "D" on the shift console surround normal fully-automatic operation. If you're inadvertently nudging the lever to the right into the "Select Shift" Sports Mode for quasi-manual operation, it'll hold gear ranges awaiting driver input by his nudging the lever either forward, to the "+" stop, or pulling the lever backward to the "-" stop, to upshift or downshift respectively, or, if no driver input is forthcoming, it'll eventually force an automatic shift to prevent engine damage as the engine approaches red-line rpms. These cars can definitely do MUCH better than 17 mpg. By the way I have the base model, but with the same V-6 engine and trannie as yours, and it was my mileage account you partially quoted. My car is out of 2nd gear under normal acceleration by about 22 mph, and in 4th gear by about 40 mph once warmed if that's any help. (When starting off cold, 2nd gear holds to about 30 mph, but that's an intentional design consideration to help reduce emissions by speeding up engine warm-up. In my moderate climate, that delayed 2-3 upshift only occurs once during the warm-up phase at that.) If you approach your dealer over this issue, keep us posted.

istanbul

I only have 19000 miles on my 2002 hyundai accent. I drove this car for 2 1/2 years. Warranty shows that I have to hav 30,000 miles service. When I went to shops, they all told me that it is too early to change spark plugs and transmission flush and refused to do it. Did I lose my warranty because of this?
    Also, in the warranty page, there are a lot of inspections. Are they really necesssary to keep my warranty or they are just optional? Hyundai wants a lot of inspections and replacements way for a new car like this.

ray_h71

No, you didn't tank your powertrain warranty. If you check the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual, you'll find that for "normal service", the fluid doesn't have to be changed out until around 100,000 miles to maintain your warranty. Personally I've always adhered to the "severe service" schedule, which as it turns out, specifies draining and refilling the transmission at 30,000 miles. But, that's just me. I don't know the situation for Accents regarding spark plugs, but Hyundai calls for changeouts on the Sonatas at 60,000 mile intervals. However, the Sonata V-6s are known to eat spark plugs by 30,000 miles for some reason. On these engines it's a $200.00+ (U.S.) job since the intake runners have to be removed to access the firewall bank of plugs. On your Accent, though, it's a simple 15 minute job if you have a 3/8" ratchet, a 4" extension, and the proper size spark plug socket. These engines have aluminum cylinder heads, so DO NOT remove the old plugs until the head has cooled to comfortable, bare skin touch. Removing the plugs on a hot engine could warp the head. Also, if you undertake changing out the spark plugs yourself, most Hyundai service techs swear by irridium tipped spark plugs for longest service life.

misnel

misnel

I only have 1800 miles on my 2004 Sonata but after reading some of the care and maintenance messages,I considered as one report noted that it would be a good idea to change the oil early to clean out the system. I have used synthetics for years and been very happy with the results. Is it recommended for the Hyundai Sonata? With only 1800 miles, I have also cracked the lens on the driver's side fog light. You can't get just the lens, you have to purchase the whole assembly and the dealer was charging $70.00 for that assembly without the bulb and bulb holder. I would hate to have to buy one of these every 1800 miles; is there some sort of protective cover I can put over these lenses? Any advice on these questions would be appreciated.

ray h

As far as your cracked fog light lens, have you tried local auto-recyclers? (For every car whose front end got whacked, at least some percentage of the rest got their rears whacked...) Another option to consider is the brush-on polymer I've seen advertised on TV to "clear" away scratches on plastic spectacle lenses. This stuff has the same, or nearly so, refractive index as polycarbonate plastic so that as it fills in scratches and sets, the blem is effectively "erased". Might work well enough on your cracked foglight lens to obscure the damage under casual observation. Overpriced at ~$15.00, it's still cheaper than a new assembly.

In terms of engine protection, synthetic motor oil is the gold standard. Period. But, if you adhere to Hyundai's recommended oil change intervals (3,000 miles for "severe" service, and 7,500 miles for "normal" service), going the synthetic route may be overpriced overkill - though it certainly won't harm anything. Equally strangely, Hyundai's absolutely mum (at least up through model year 2003) on the subject of synthetic motor oil use. While oil formulators have traditionally maintained that synthetics can go far beyond the OEM's mandated oil change intervals* (and I have no reason to doubt the claim), it's the OEMs who provide the powertrain warranty. Catch 22. I'm not advising you how to handle this conundrum, but I've chosen to rely on a name-brand premium conventional motor oil (Chevron Supreme or Havoline** - both essentially the same product now that Chevron bought out Texaco and owns the "Havoline" name) in 10W-30 viscosity grade, with the latest API and ILSAC service specifications, and I change out every 3,000 miles. As long as I can show receipts for oil purchases and logged entries when I've changed the engine oil and oil filter, Hyundai's gonna have a hard time ducking a warranty claim in the event my engine flies south. For 10 years or 100,000 miles.

*They seem to be backing off to some degree lately, which I suspect is to protect themselves against liability exposure by irate car owners whose warranty claims may have been denied by the factory.

**These ChevronTexaco products have consistently shown protection qualities equal to or better than other premium brand conventional motor oils in the "Used Oil Analysis" section at the "BobIsTheOilGuy" forum. They're generally priced lower at discount than Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, etc. conventionals - often within several cents/qt. of store brand oil pricing.

gregoryc1

Some important facts to consider about motor oil and changing oil:

1.) Motor oil is often called the "lifeblood" of an engine.
2.) The primary responsibility of motor oil is to lubricate the dozens of fast moving, precision metal parts that make up an internal combustion engine.
3.) Clean oil does a great job. Dirty oil does not do a great lubricating job. If the oil in the crankcase is too old, and becomes "broken down", (in molecular composition), and / or contaminated, severe accelerated wear, and even sudden engine failure could be the result of such a condition.
4.) It is better to change the engine oil and filter, more often than necessary, than not often enough. Oil and filters are cheap. Engines are expensive! This is a simple straight forward concept.
5.) No matter what is written on the subject of changing the engine oil and filter in the owner's manual, after the new vehicle warranty has expired, YOU, as the owner of the vehicle, are responsible for the cost of all repairs, and / or mechanical failures. If you have an extended warranty on the vehicle, YOU are responsible for showing proof of proper mintenance. Keep you "maintenance life" stupid / simple! ---- Change the engine oil and filter frequently. Stay on the "winning" side of the maintenance situation with the factory. I have never experienced a situation where the factory refused engine warranty work because the oil and filter were changed too frequently. With the modern oils and today's engine designs, a 3,000 mile interval is an excellent schedule for an oil and filter service.
6.) There are many excellent synthetic oils currently available that can provide: ----a.)better fuel mileage, ----b.)longer service life, ---- and ---- c.) better engine protection
7.) The main drawback to synthetic oils is the higher price!
8.) Synthetic oil IS NOT for every car and every type of driving. Both brand new engine and older / high mileage engines are the wrong candidates for synthetic oil. ---- REASONS: ----a.) Syntheitc oils are so slippery that they can prevent the proper "break-in" of a NEW engine, ----b.) In older engines, the slippery synthetic oils get past the owrn parts easily, ----and ----c.) In older engines, the high detergent synthetic oils will loosen the internal deposits and circulate them through the internal small oil passages. (NOT A GOOD IDEA!)
9.)Engines using synthetic oils may show an increased fuel economy in highway driving, due to less internal friction.
10.) If synthetic oil is used, it should still be replaced at regular intervals. ----REASON: ---While the oil itself will last much longer than regular motor oil, pollutants such as soot, water and unburned fuel still accumulate within the oil. These are the damaging elements within an engine that must be removed. DIRTY OIL is DIRTY OIL, and DIRT OIL does a POOR JOB of lubricating! You might be able to extend the oil and filter change interval from 3,000 - to - 4,000 miles with synthetic oil. But, 5,000, 7,500 or 10,000 mile intervals are a "pure pipe dream", and a marketing tool by either the vehicle manufacturer and / or the oil supplier. Engines operate in the "real world" of stop and go driving under a wide range of temperatures, and as such, they need frequent oil and filter changes.
11.) While a vehicle used under harder / demanding circumstances, (such as stop-and - go / city type driving, short trips and / or extended idling), could benefit from a synthetic motor oil, the necessity of frequent oil and filter changes for this type of service, may not be worth the additional investment of the synthetic product. Whether you are using a regular or a synthetic product, the engine oil and filter should be changed often, as part of a high quality / state of the art preeventive maintenance program. High mileage oil and filter changes are a "product marketing tool" created by the vehicle manufacturers, and have no place in the "real world" of vehicle maintenance! A clean engine will operate more efficiently than a dirty engine. A clean engine is a "happy engine", and I want to keep my engines happy! ----It is that simple!

droe77

Hi Town hall -

I have about 51K miles on my 2002 Sonata and I've yet to have to replace my brakes (4 wheel power discs). I have them checked upon every rotation, and keep getting the "OK". Anyone have any info on the average/standard life of pads on these cars?

Thanks!

ray h

There is no "average" - it all depends on your driving style and the terrain in which the car is routinely driven. Highway driving will be easier on brake pads and rotors because there're fewer repeated stops. The same holds true for not racing away from a stop only to slam on the brakes a block later. Flatlanders generally fare better regarding brake wear than mountain folk. YOU may be the uncharacteristic exception to these factors, but I'd still be willing to bet that you're a sober driver who, by nature, doesn't test the limits of his machinery on a regular basis. That attitude pays off over the long haul - and not just in brake wear. (As the man once said, "Whatever you're doin', keep doin' it.")

gregoryc1

Keep changing your oil and filter at 3,000 mile intervals and you will have a sweet running engine for a long period of time. Extended oil and filter changes are simply a marketing tool. They have no place in the real world. While I do not own a Hyundai, I have always admired them on the road.

killerk

I just got my 75K maintenance done last Sat.
Got my 2000 GLS in December 2000.

They were supposed to check "all" fluids, but I'm not sure if they did or not...

I just opened the hood (with engine not running) and noticed that p/s fluid is at the MIN level. And I don't see any "mark" on the cap to make me believe that it was ever opened...

Can I just add more p/s fluid or is it more involved than this? Also would you recommend any specific brand?

While I'm at this, how abt break fluid?

I've never maintained either fluids previously. The only thing I did on my own was filling up the window washer fluid and engine coolant. TIA.

ray h

The ONLY reliable way to judge PS fluid level is with the fluid at operating temperature. If you checked when the fluid was cold, the level would falsely record. Except for Hondas and Acuras, PS fluid is really automatic transmission fluid. (The requirements are the same - a low viscosity/high viscoisty index hydraulic fluid with seal conditioners and anti-wear additives for the mechanicals.) ANY brand of commonly available DEXRON-III would be fine for PS backfill in your Hyundai's power steering system - just don't use DEXRON-III in Hyundai automatic transmissions since model year 1995. Or you can buy the overpriced Hyundai "PS-3" fluid from any Hyundai or Kia dealer and be the dealership parts guy's newest best friend. Your choice.

As for brake fluid, any brand of commonly available DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid can be used to top up the fluid level in the master cylinder's resevoir. If your car still has the original factory fill, it would be smart to have your dealer or a mechanic do a flush, refill, and air bleed. Brake fluid is "hygroscopic" - a water lover. Over time it can collect enough moisture to interfere with braking efficiency. Most auto manufacturers suggest flushing the lines and refilling with fresh fluid every two or three years, though I doubt most owners follow through. Check with your dealer to find out if this service has ever been performed.

killerk

I've never given any thought to this. I thought they would do a "maintenance" on the brake fluid when they do the brake jobs.

So I gather that PS fluid doesn't need a "flush" like the brake fluid?

ray h

Some people religiously do a PS fluid flush every two years. Since auto (at least the ones I can afford) manufacturers don't recommend doing so, I'm not one of 'em. Never had a problem. (knock on wood...) I just keep monthly tabs on fluid level and top up as necessary - which is usually rarely.

dann_can

Go to almost any car parts shop. Ask if they will "load test" your battery. Many parts shops will come out to the curb and bring the tester unit to the car.

dann_can

Dear Ray_H71,

Thank you for all your replys. Your tech savy is certain and appreciated.

I now have 2k on my '04 LX (V6); I watched the break-in recommendation too (its in the manual). My milage has creeped up a tiny bit. I know that WIX makes the best filters and now know the part number; also, to round up the quarts to an even number is nice advice. I have always favored Castol multi-grades to stick with one brand throughout a cars life.

Dann
Bethel Island CA

ray h

Funny you should mention WIX. (though be aware that WIX is looking to get out of the aftermarket filter buisness - may wanna lay in a stock) The Hundai 2.7L V6 will easily accept an oversize oil filter if you're interested. The WIX part number for it is 51626. It has the same exit port diameter and thread pitch as the Hyundai filter, and the same 8-11 psi bypass valve specification. This filter is seriously enough oversize that you can run five full quarts of your favorite oil without overfilling on the dipstick. Since you've indicated you're not service-phobic with your car, you might also want to consider the "SUPER PLUG" magnetic oil drain plug. The one for the Sonata is SP-235. They're pricey at ~$30.00, but the magnet is STRONG, and it's only a onetime expense. Since the moderators on this board have a cow if I mention a commercial website, just do a google search with "super plug" as the key word.

killerk

Wow, I've never heard of this product before. The theory sounds pretty interesting. I suppose you have this installed in your car.

Got a few questions if you don't mind:

1. Where do these ferrous particles in the engine oil come from? I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata GLS and I thought that the engine block is made of aluminium which won't feel the affects of a magnet.

2. I get my oil changes done at the dealer. Would the mechanic doing the oil change be "surprised" by this magnetic plug? Would he know what to do with the ferrous particles stuck on the plug?

3. IF I were ever to do my own oil change, I would just "wipe" off the ferrous particles caught by this plug?

Thx for introducing us to this cool product.

ray h

"1. Where do these ferrous particles in the engine oil come from? I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata GLS and I thought that the engine block is made of aluminium which won't feel the affects of a magnet."

You're right - the block and heads are aluminum. But the crankshaft, camshaft, cylinder liners, and connecting rods are iron. The piston rings are iron and chrome plated. Both iron and chrome wear particles will definitely be attracted to a magnet.

"2. I get my oil changes done at the dealer. Would the mechanic doing the oil change be "surprised" by this magnetic plug? Would he know what to do with the ferrous particles stuck on the plug?"

Yeah, the mechanic will not only know about a magnetic plug, you'd also need to keep an eye on the dude so the plug didn't "stick" to him, too. As to whether a minimum wage oil change jockey would bother wiping it clean, your guess is as good as mine - which is one more reason why I get down and dirty with my car every 3,000 miles, myself. (It's a love-thing chicks have no concept of...)

"3. IF I were ever to do my own oil change, I would just "wipe" off the ferrous particles caught by this plug?"

Yep - a paper towel wet with solvent will bring the fine shavings off fairly effectively. If the paper towell is dry, you might as well try spitting against a hurricane.

As for "cool product", GM's used magnetic drain plugs in at least some its engines for at least four years. My wife's 2000 Cavalier came with one. And, you're right - I do have a SUPER PLUG installed on my Sonata's aluminum V6. My only "complaint" about the SUPER PLUG is that the freakin' neodymium magnet's so strong that it's a bear to get the threads started when I re-install it since the pan is steel. The business end is about 3/8" in both diameter and length, yet will easily suspend a 16 oz. hammer head.

(Before anyone asks, I don't work for the company, nor am I a distributor or stockholder, but, yes, I am anal about my ride.)

killerk

Ray, what "solvent" do you mean for #3???

killerk

Hey, guys. Could you tell me if there are any reputable websites to obtain Hyundai parts?

For example, I think that tirerack.com is the authoritative site for tires. So is there such a site for getting Hyundai parts?

I'm just looking to get parts like air filters and cabin filters - something I can easily do myself.

Getting these parts from the dealer is so expensive.

I also need to replace my telescoping antenna as well. Thx.

ray h

I always pour several ounces of gasoline into an old coffee can to clean the PCV valve while I change the oil and filter. I just use a paper towel moistened with some of that gasoline to clear the crud of the SuperPlug.

ray h

So far as cabin air filters are concerned, you're pretty much out of luck - leastways I haven't found an alternate source for 'em. However, you can get an aftermarket engine air filter for your Sonata from Purolator - catalog number A25373. Pep Boys carries 'em.

droe77

Hi folks,

 

Ok...my manual says replace the fuel filter at 52K, the service guy at my dealer says despite the manual, its not needed until 100K.

 

Who's right (or at least closer)?

ray h

It'll vary with the quality of gasoline. This isn't so much a brand consideration, but a storage consideration - so the hapless car owner has little control over rate of contaminant buildup. In any event, a stalled car at the side of the road is a frustrating experience at best and dangerous at worst. Is it worth a few bucks every 52,000 miles to chance that? (At least the damned things are accessible on the Sonatas. My '89 Toyota truck's first part was the fuel filter and then the rest of the vehicle was built around it...)

kirb

Now that the Sonata has 4-bolt wheels instead of 5, it seems that the choice of aftermarket wheels is very limited. I put dedicated snow tires on the factory wheels-- Continental Snow Tech Viking, and will purchase new wheels for the "Summer" tires in Spring. Why is the Sonata so hard to fit with aftermarket wheels? Many of the suppliers show this car as having "no wheels available"???? Anybody out there have any experiences putting custom wheels on their Sonata?

riez

I ran into the same problem with my '00 Sonata GLS. The 4-bolt pattern kills available wheels. Only "easy" solution is to order a set of Hyundai factory wheels. Called my dealer a few weeks ago. They listed at $249 per wheel. I negotiated for a bit and had the parts guy down to $200 per. Think I could've gotten him to $175. But that is still a ton for these wheels.

tenpin288

Not sure what type of wheels you are looking for, but there seems to be a fairly nice selection at www.tirerack.com. I browsed thru the selections for a Sonata and saw some as low as $120-$130 per wheel.

After reading the posts I checked them out to get some ideas for my wife's 04 Sonata LX. Maybe a birthday present for her?

riez

tenpin288... Are these wheels with 4 lugs only, not 5?

 

I didn't see much when I searched Tire Rack. All the wheels I looked at, the actual pictures, appeared to show wheels with 5 lug nuts.

 

Maybe I missed it? Can you provide a web link to the actual page of some 4-lug wheels that fit Sonata GLS V6 15" tires?

tenpin288

Everything I checked was listed as 4x114 for the Sonata. If you click on a wheel you want more info on, specs on the wheel will show up on the left side of the page. Also, if you filter by wheel size (15"), it displayed 8 different wheels that should fit your car, from $99 to $139 per wheel. That is a lot less than your dealer and there are some nice looking ones there. Good hunting!

Here is the link from the page I looked at: http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/WheelSearch.jsp?changeColo- - r=Choose+Color&filterSize=15&filterFinish=&filterSpec- - ial=Pricing&autoMake=Hyundai&autoModel=Sonata+GLS&aut- - oModClar=&autoYear=2000

kirb

Thanks for the Tire Rack tip! Though the choices for a 16" 4-bolt wheel are sparce, The Kazera KZ-V I think would look great on this car. Check out the computer image with these installed. They are only $119 ea., silver with machined lip or $209 in chrome. I want to stick with 16" as I still have alot of tread left on the OEM Michelins and I don't want to hurt the car's nice smooooth ride by going with lower profile tires. Also, as the tire widths go up, and wheel sizes go up, and profiles go lower, the tire prices go up significantly.

sonatacalif

Just had the 60K service completed on my Sonata today at the local dealership.

 

They advertised a cost of $479 but it came out to a total of $804 (ouch!)because they said that the rear set of spark plugs are very difficult to change out on this engine due the air intake components blocking access.

 

Next time probably going to independent shop, I wanted to do the first major service at dealer to protect the warranty which goes out to 120k miles (hyundai extended due to overrated horsepower ratings)

 

What has been the experience of others?

 

Here is a breakdown of what was done,

 

Remove and replace spark plugs, labor $307.67 + $110.82 for the platinum spark plugs - $41.85 (10% off parts/labor) = $376.64

 

and an additional $409.76 parts and labor for oil and filter change, engine coolant drain/refill, automatic transmission drain/refill, change air filter, fuel filter

riez

sonatacalif... Here is what I had posted about my experience back in June 2004:

 

"Hard to believe I've had my '00 Sonata GLS V6 5-speed manual with Pkg 13 (ABS, TC, leather, sunroof, pwr seat) since May 2000. Needed to do the 48 month service work.

  

- New timing belt: $299.95

- Change transmission fluid: $159.95

- New spark plugs/tune up: $139.95

- Change coolant: $81.95

- Change cabin air filter: $63.07

- Change Brake fluid: $59.95

  

Total= $804.82 plus $15 shop charge and tax.

  

For parts, the timing belt cost $79.95, the cabin air filter was $36.67, and the spark plugs cost $55.68."

pagodian

can i get more information on this super oil filter and will it fit my 2000 4 cylinder sonata? i would like to post it on my sonata page on car domain, if i could have a link or more information that'd be great. Check my sonata out, at www.cardomain.com/id/pagodian

killerk

Just came back from e-oil change from the dealer.
While I was there, the service rep "recommended" the following additional services:
1. PS fluid flush for $117.
2. Engine flush for $127.

I declined both services for now.

Questions:
1. Is PS fluid flush something I can do myself? Or is it something I should leave it to the pros?
2. Do you guys recommend the Engine flush? Or is it one of the "sham" services?

BTW, I have a 2000 GLS with 80K miles on it. Thx.

bobintn

I recently purchased a 1.5 yr old Sonata (2003) with 24,000 miles. The car appears in excellent shape, not even a ding anywhere on the exterior. The car has a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder engine and 5 spd manual transmission. Can anyone out there tell me the following:
1. what weight oil to use in the manual transmission
2. where the drain and fill plugs are located on the manual transmission
3. is the fill plug level the proper fill amount for the transmission, if not
what is the capacity (in quarts)
4. How often should the manual transmission oil be changed?

thanks,
Bob in Tennessee (BobinTN)

dani24

I'm about to hit the one year anniversary on my 2004 Sonata. Currently, I only have about 3500 miles on it. I was getting my oil changed a week ago, and looked in the manual, and noticed it said the first service should be at 7500 miles/6 months. Since I'm not even close to 7500 miles, I didn't think I needed to take it in yet. It was only for the drive belt inspection (which I had my brother, who is a mechanic, check for me). But, I'm wondering, since I'm at a year, if I need to take it in for the 15,000 miles service, even though I'm nowhere near 15,000 miles. If I don't take it in at 12 months, will that void my warranty?

ray h

"can i get more information on this super oil filter and will it fit my 2000 4 cylinder sonata? i would like to post it on my sonata page on car domain, if i could have a link or more information that'd be great."

Sorry - been out of the country for a while. (I don't think her brother's still looking for me . . .) If you're referring to the WIX 51626 oil filter, they're available at NAPA stores. Under NAPA's own label a slightly cheapened version, but still fully guaranteed, is listed as number 21626. If you're referring to the "SuperPlug" magnetic drain plug (NOT the same thing as the oil filter!), just Google "superplug". Either or both will fit the four cylinder Hyundai engines just fine.

Whoops, the doorbell - gotta run - FAST!

Seriously, all you who run the Hyundai brand oil filter are getting a bargain, anyway. These are based on a German "Mann" design (Mann is also a supplier to Mercedes Benz, Porsche, and BMW) but made in Korea by a skilled workforce who don't have the mindset that their employer owes them a handout. A very well built product at a fair price - even through stealerships.

ray h

"...I only have about 3500 miles on it. I was getting my oil changed a week ago, and looked in the manual, and noticed it said the first service should be at 7500 miles/6 months. Since I'm not even close to 7500 miles, I didn't think I needed to take it in yet..."

No one ever got into trouble buying IBM, listening to mama (well, OK, with the possible exceptions of Eve, Lucretia Borgia, and "Ma Barker" . . .), or changing engine oil more frequently than specified in their owner's manual - which is, at best, a maximum interval service recommendation. (Also, if in doubt, check the "severe service" category in your owner's manual. In just about every area of the country most drivers actually fall under one or more "severe service" provisions which would both indicate and justify a 3,000 or 3,500 mile oil change interval.) The price of an oil and filter change is less than that of a tankful of gas. (and, no way, do you get 3,500 miles off a tankful of gas . . .) Some drivers advocate getting the factory fill oil out VERY early in their engine's life - like at 500 miles as preventive maintenance. Their reasoning is that there are inevitible factory machining leftovers circulating throuout the engine that may clog the oil filter prematurely. If the factory oil filter goes into "bypass" mode, any unfiltered abrasives are then free to circulate indefinitely until flushed out during the first oil change. While unfiltered oil is better than no oil, unfiltered oil is never remotely as good as clean, filtered oil. Oil and filter changes are at once your new engine's cheapest service expense and major guarantor of a long, mechanically trouble-free life. (I know - Hyundais have a 10-yr. powertrain warranty. Trust one thing - the company won't give away an expensive motor without a fight if there's documented evidence of an owner failing to carry out scheduled maintenance in a timely manner. Get it? )

riez

So if it says 7,500 miles or 6 months, do the 6 months if you drive low miles. Many marques have time specific intervals for some services. BMWs have brake fluid changed every 2 years and coolant every 3 years regardless of mileage.

Do NOT skimp on routine maintenance. LOF, tire rotate, filters, etc. are not very expensive and keep your car running well.

nick0924

I change oil and oil filter every 3,000; always.

My 1993 Honda Accord has 275,300 miles and uses no oil.

I change the oil and filter on our Sonata in same manner.

scary

Hi Guys

How do I adjust the clutch on this car?

The clutch is not to my liking and I want to adjust it to be "higher"

Kindest Regards
Hans Scheepers

pro4art

Why wait? Now a days gas can be of poor quality. Why make your fuel pump wok hard with a partially dirty filter? I change mine every 15,000, but 30K should be fine. The service guy is either wanting you to trash your fuel pump for big bucks, or doesn't know what he's talking about. Same for your spark plugs, which many think go for 100K. Wrong again. The last 40K (from 60K) is very very hard on your ignition system, and can cause expensive failures. I'm changing my plugs at 40K, as my old Tiburon had a plug wire failure at 43K, due to worn plugs

pro4art

On my 2000, it's a hydraulic non-adjustable system. Make sure you don't have a thick floor mat under the pedals. The clutch hydraulics may need the cylinders serviced.

poohba

I have a 2000 Sonata Base model and have had many problems with it. I do drive it a lot and now that I look back I might not have had as many problems as I like to complain about. (The service in my area suck though). At 63K my exhaust manifold cracked and was replaced under warranty and they talked me into getting the timing belt and balance belt done at that time since they said they were going to be in that area anyway. 20K later my engine goes. The dealer closest to my house (1mi) wanted me to pay for it stating that I didn't get the timing belt changed and since I didn't keep up with the warranty I am liable. They told me it is/would be best if I just bought a new engine and had it put in and they gave me the price. After arguing with me and the dealership that did the work they realize that the timing belt was changed and that the balance belt was put in wrong which caused the problem. (it was so many degrees off). For this they billed the other dealership $264 for the balance belt work and they would "fix" the engine under warranty. I found that to be REAL shady since they were trying to talk me into buying a new engine and now that its under warranty they just fix it. Anyway, at this time I tell them that my car was acting funny and that at 40mi/hr it jerks. They said I just needed to get the transmission flushed which I just had done at Firestone. Firestone neglected to tell me they couldn't change the filter because they didn't know where it was. So I got my money back from Firestone and had Hyundai fix it. It worked fine for about 2wks and then it started again. I took it to other shops (Firestone, Pep Boys, Dealership) and no one could figure out the problem. At 102K it gets worst and I take it in and they tell me they don't know what the problem is and they can't feel the problem. I'm not a heavy foot driver so I cruise a lot and cruising at 40mi/hr you feel it very well. I guess they couldn't maintain 40mi/hr and they wouldn't let me ride with them. So lets fast forward to this year... End of Dec. to be exact. I take the car to Pep Boys to get my engine worked on. (I have a check engine light on) They do a tune-up, change balance, timing belt and anything else that needs to be done in my engine. Get the car back and the check engine light is out. I drive about 30mi and i hear a thump, my car jerks, and drops a gear or two. I immediately call Pep Boys and tell them of the problem and they want me to bring it back but I am on the road to go out of town which is why i had it in the shop in the first place. When I get back to town they check it out. The check engine light is on again and they read the codes. It said I needed speed input sensors so they did that. After doing that the check engine is still on. It says i need O2 sensors but they can't do that so I take it to the dealership and have them run the diagnostic on it and they find the same problem. The put the sensors on and I go on my way. 3mi down the road the light comes on again. I call them they say bring it back but I couldn't until the follow week. I take it in and they said I need the rear O2 sensors. I don't know anything about cars but I am getting upset with all the money that I am spending at this point. I can't afford to do that at the time b/c I have a lot of other things going on but my car is slow to take off, picks up speed very slow. (It is a 4cyl) I refused to believe that my car was acting the way it was because of an 02 sensor but everywhere I take it I'm getting the same story. I finally take it to a transmission specialist. They take it out, test drive it, lift the hood and drain my fluid and ... its as dark as oil. He tells me that my trans fluid should never look like that because its an enclosed component and shouldn't be affected by anything and something is wrong. So I call to get a price from the dealer on a new transmission and they tell me $3400 and if the core is good they will give me $1000 back. They transmission place wants to rebuild it and to take it off it will cost me $450 and then whatever they find is wrong with it I will have to pay for on top of that but an automatic $450 and I think that is a rip-off.

I am probably just venting right now but I wanted to know if anyone has/is experiencing any of the above symptoms. I am wondering if it is a Sonata thing or what. I doubt if there are many 2000 base sonata's with 178K on them to compare to but if anyone of you are moving up in miles and experiencing the same problems then there is something wrong with the make of the car and not just that I drive a lot. Oh yeah... did I mention the service sucks at the dealership around my way. And by the way... the dealership name is Hyundai City in willingboro/burlington NJ. Do Not Take your car there for service. My friend took her car there for her first oil change on the little suv they have and they gave her back the car with NO oil in it at all. They drained it but forgot to put oil in it and her car stalled on her. They are the worst and because of that/them I will NEVER purchase another Hyundai again. I don't care about the warranty!!!!

bhmr59

Sounds like you caused or contriubted to alot of the problems you describe. You drive a lot of miles each year but do not appear to pay attention to service intervals.

You've taken the car to several different places for service, none of whom have your complete service records. You've gone to different national chains for service. Unfortunately, many of these "service shops" employ lower wage scale people who don't really know what they are doing. I.e. changing your tranny fliud but not the filter because they couldn't find it. Worse yet, they didn't tell you about that omission. Twice you had a problem right after the car was serviced and called the shop immediately. Both times they said to bring the car back in and both times you probably drove around 800 miles (based on your average usage) before returning the car.

If you don't want to have the dealer service your car, try an INDEPENDENTLY owned local service garage where an owner will strive for high quality work from his employees.
Follow service intervals. If you had had a Honda and had not changed the timing belt at 60,000 miles (before 63K) you probably would have been looking at a blown engine not covered by warantee. Try to follow recommended service intervals as closely as possible. Service, just like the price of gasoline, is a part of the cost per mile to drive your car.

gmctruck

I don't think you should complain too much with 178K on the car. Most cars don't make it that far without having some problems if they make it to 178K at all. I never let Pep-Boys, Firestone, or any of the chain stores service any of my vehicles. I only go back to the dealer for warranty work or recalls. What happened to your friend happens every day across america and that is why I do my own oil changes and basic maintenance. Not only do I save money, but I know the work was done right. If you drive a lot, you should learn to do basic maintenance yourself. Call different tranny shops to see what they charge to pull the tranny. You may find that $450 is a normal charge for labor to pull the tranny on your car. It might be a real pain in the rear and labor intensive to get the tranny out. I think you are now at a crossroad where you need to decide to either put more money into a car with 178K or replace it with another new or used vehicle. I'd say you got your money's worth. Service at some dealers does suck and it's not limited to Hyundai. Good Luck!