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However, it seems that you have a lot of other problems arising with your car. After talking the a certified Hyundai Mechanic, he told me that your car is going to become real expensive for you to maintain. His reason was because the engine and technology in your car is a cross bread of Mitsu+Hyundai+Chrysler.
However, don't just run from Hyundai because their new cars or very good and worth the money.
Now I need new brakes, on all four wheels, what is the brand Hyundai is selling, what is a reasonable price thur dealer and what brands and series are recommended if I decide to go and have someone else do it. Do I cancel any Hyundai warrenties if I have someone else do it?? need a neurtal party expert advice ASAP.
I highly doubt that you can void your warranty because you are not altering anything on replacing normal wear items. It's almost like changing your oil, if your engine fails and you can prove that you maintained everything as required you can not be held liable for a defective product. But check you state laws to confirm how everything works in regards to your warranty. Sometimes saving money can become costly if you don't do your research.
I am seriously thinking about buying a 2006 Hyundai Sonata and I heard that if you might have some problems if you don't do all the servicing at the dealership itself. I change the oil in all my cars at the regular intervals (~3500 miles). I also might use synthetic for the Sonata. What I had heard was that the dealer might refuse to fix a problem, should one arise, if the regular maintenance (things you can do by yourself) were not done at the dealership. If anybody has had similar situations, please post a message asap. I am thinking about buying the car tomorrow. :confuse:
The shop I went to for transmission service used DEXRON-III (plus an additive that made it meet the manufactures spec - according to them). Now my transmission needs to be replaced and Hyundai will not cover it (voided warranty) because I didn't use “their" fluid. My question is, doesn't the Magneson-Moss Warranty Act say that I am not required to use a companies fluid, proprietary ? or not, when servicing my transmission?
I have contacted 5 different shops that do transmission service in my area and they all use DEXRON-III with the additive on Hyundai cars. Can all these places be voiding the warranty of these Hyundai cars? That just doesn’t seem logical. I have to fight them because I don’t have the cash to fix my car. Small claims court Any suggestions?
As a sidenote, Chrysler has for some time (~1989) specified their own proprietary fluid, "ATF+4" for use in that company's ATs. And, like SP-III, ATF+4 was only available from their dealerships - and fairly pricey at that. Starting September 1 (2005), Chrysler will begin licensing the formula to major and independent refiners and blenders for distribution through the normal retail channels, though it may take several months before actual product begins showing up on store shelves. (My mind boggles at the prospect of reasonably priced Wal-Mart "SuperTech" genuine ATF+4!) While ATF+4 is not sanctioned as an equivalent for SP-III, the fact that Chrysler has responded to consumer pressure is a hopeful sign that perhaps Mitsubishi will relent at some point, too.
I don't have any idea how far you were able to delve into QS's Byzantine product data site, but here're a couple of URLs for you to peruse for specifics. The first is for a QS synthetic-blend formulated for winter temperatures, and the second, for a QS synthetic-blend optomised for "high performance" engines. There were two more, but they're intended for light trucks and SUVs.
winter syn-blend:
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/QuakerState/EngineOils/pdf/WinterSyntheticBlend.PDF
high performance syn-blend:
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/QuakerState/EngineOils/pdf/HighPerformanceSyntheticBlend- - MotorOil.PDF
Hope these help!
The dealer isn't the final authority on warranty matters. I reviewed my supplementary warranty booklet (you should have one, too, packed in with the other paperwork you received from your dealer at the time of delivery), and I can't find any exclusions about the electrical components associated with Hyundai's extended powertrain warranty on covered parts. Either try another Hyundai dealer or contact Hyundai directly and request a review of your situation. If Hyundai agrees the work is warranty related, it will get done. Additionally some dealers (NOT just Hyundai dealers) will pass off on certain warranty repair work they don't feel they're adequately compensated for by the manufacturer - then they turn around and bill the manufacturer for what the manufacturer will pay after the dealer bills you their customary parts and labor charges. It's called double-dipping and it's outright fraud, but the ones who pull these shananigans usually get away with them. Additionally, by keeping a set of cooked books, they don't pay taxes on their fraud, either.
I am happy with the outcome of the service today. The interior of my car is spotless. They vacuumed, dusted, washed the windows etc. In addition, they cleaned the exterior of the car, including the brake dust on the rims.
My question is, what service, if anything, does the auto-butler service cover on the exterior body? I did notice that the car looks washed and clean however, does the "typical" auto-butler service contain "special" waxing or polishing to the paint job?
Thanks for the information.
Is it just a cleaning service? How many auto-butler services are included for the "several hundred dollars" that were tacked on to your purchase price?
After doing some research on the web I found that the auto butler service is an inside and out detailing seservice... includinghe body. They are supposed to use a machine which buffs on a polish to the paint job and then detail the car. In addition, it's supposed to protect my paint job from defects. UnUnfortunatelyI know nothing about this polish. Is it a wax? Do I need to wax my car in between these services?
Paying up front might not be so good, but on the flip side you're protected against price increases for this service for 5 years.
Suggest you check with the dealer about the polish/wax issue.
i've been to k&n website they haven't yet listed '06 Sonota models yet.
Thankshttp://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emot- orcons/emo_smiley.gif
http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorcons- /emo_smiley.gif
Call the dealer's parts department and ask whether the new Sonata uses the same air filter as the '05 Sonata. If the counterman says "no", save your money until K&N lists an airfilter for the '06 Sonata. K&Ns are very persnickety about how they're set-up. If they're under-oiled, they won't catch as much abrasive dirt as a paper filter. If they're over-oiled you'll lose performance due to the excess oil's restriveness to airflow. Getting the oiling right is more art than science. If running a K&N, remove the filter monthly and check the post-filter intake plumbing. If it shows a layer of fine silt, you got problems of dirt intrusion into the engine. (Some will go out the exhaust, but the finer particles will make it past the piston rings and take up residence in your motor oil - and not all of that will be trapped by the oil filter.) If it shows a fine oil film, the filter's over-oiled. While they're not sexy looking or sounding, Hyundai's stock dry paper filter is very well designed and made, and more to the point, very effective.
This could be a minor problem for the time being. Hyundai went to a canister-type oil filter with these new engines instead of the familiar spin-on oil filter. Dunno whether any of the aftermarket filter brands have ramped up production and distribution yet on these new designs. But, in the meantime, Hyundai's oil filters are very well made, and many dealers will discount if you purchase three at a time. The good news is that changing these new filters is a snap - done from topside. Remove the canister cap, pull the old filter up and out (holding it above the open canister to contain drips), ease an old can or plastic bag under the filter to carry it away for disposal, drop in the new one and replace the cap. Done!
*Remember when Volkswagen translated to "Peoples' Car"? Apparently they still are - but owners hafta be well-heeled "people" nowadays...
for required maintenance. It says the "drive belt"
has to be inspected every 7500 miles. Anyone know
what a drive belt is? Doesn't 2006 V6 Sonata have a
timing chain? And anyone know what this inspection
might cost at the dealer? Thanks.
Every car has a water pump, a power-steering pump and various accessories — all of which are powered by rubber drive belts. On older cars, each of these components is driven by its own belt. On most modern cars, all of these components are driven by one belt, called a serpentine belt/drive belt.
It is the only belt you see going around when you open the hood!
A time chain is something different and there is no maintenance for it!
had a coupon to make the cost 9.99, and the service
manager said I saved 30 dollars. After I got up off the
floor I asked why, since the posted rate was 25.95.
He said the filter cost more, and the V6 required more
oil than the 4, and 5W-20 oil, which was required, cost more. Any of this make any sense? Has anyone else been charged this much for 2006 V6 Sonata oil change?
(Ask me why I don't let "take-yer-money-ship" service monkeys come within ten feet of my car unless I have to take it in for a recall or a warranty issue...)
off one of the bolts holding the plastic cover on.
I found this out when I checked the oil, after I
noticed an oil stain under the car. I guess the
tech also forgot about the coffee can technique, and spilled oil on the engine, which drained down.
So, the dealer has to order a new bracket for the
plastic cover. Although I haven't changed my own oil in years, I may start doing it again.
Sadly, take-yer-money-ships are more than likely to assign menial jobs, such as routine oil and oil filter changes, to the dealerships' bottom-feeders who're normally assigned equally menial jobs such as emptying trash cans, pushing brooms, and washing cars. (Jumpsuit coveralls with embroidered dealer logos are no guarantor of ability and conscientiousness.) The ASE-certified techs are better used where their knowledge (and salary) are justified. At least when I do my own oil changes, I know what and how much has gone into the engine sump and spun onto the oil filter adapter nipple. Oh, and the plastic engine cover? Mine is resting comfortably in a place of "honor" to gather dust along the garage wall until trade-in time. I'm one of those easily excitable gearheads who gets aroused by the appearance of a bare-naked engine's exposed cam covers, and the sultry, sinuous spark plug cabling snaking provocatively through its looms...
Around here (FL) the cost is really outrageous :
2006 - I4 = $28
2006 - V6 = $55
The filter itself cost around $7 more than the one for the I4. I think it is $12 +tx.
Please share your experience/cost.
Also the service guy told me, it is more elaborate to change the V6 oil filter, than screwing it off and on; like on the pre-2006 V6. He said you have to disassemble it before mounting the filter... any truth to that, for those who replaced oil-filter V6 2006, themselves. If so, what is the procedure?
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http://img17.imagevenue.com/img.php?loc=loc104&image=dd3fb_oil_filter.jpg
Actually, it is much easier to change the filter
than an ordinary filter, you do it from the top,
no special tools required. Your dealer gave you a load of
crap. Maybe you should print out the info on the link in
the other reply, and show it to him, and ask why it is so
hard. Simply remove the plastic engine cover, unscrew the
cap for the filter, pull out the cartridge, replace,
replace cap, and replace plastic cover, or not, since it is not necessary.
Changing the Sonata oil took me a little extra time compared to my other vehicles, but now that I know the engine and procedure, it won't take any more time than a typical oil change.
V6 oil changes WILL cost more since they use a little over 6 quarts of oil and the filters are very expensive right now, but $55 is excessive. I'd recommend finding another dealer, doing it yourself, or finding an independent. Personally, I don't trust mechanics to take the extra time/cost to replace the o-rings and crush washer, so I just do it myself using a high-quality motor oil and Hyundai filter.
Good luck.
I've been changing my own oil for 10 years and the first change is the hardest due to the torque issue. Once you do it yourself the first time, it's an easy job. I change my oil for about $14. As long as you have somewhere to recycle the oil, do it. It gives you great satisfaction, plus it impresses a lot of people. Good luck.
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