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Looking at the 4cyl. Sonata at this time.
*According to the shop manual, these are designated as "MLA"s (manual lash adjusters?). My initial interpretation from the diagrams in the shop manual was that these were shallow, but full tappets. But on further reflection, perhaps "MLA" is Hyundai-speak for shims? Dunno - I'll leave it to a Hyundai dealership tech to settle the question.
http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/hyundai/sonata/100751612/standardwarranties.html-
....is free from defects in material and workmanship at the time of sale which would cause the vehicle to fail to conform with such regulations for a period of 2 years from the date of original retail delivery or date of first use or 24,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Specific 2 year/24,000 mile emission parts (are) covered under the 5 year/60,000 mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty. (It continued to say several major components such as ECM and catalytic converter are covered under 8 yrs/80,000 miles)
In the following few pages, there is a table listing about 80 items on air induction system, ignition system, valve timing system etc. There is a footnote for the table that said,"Specific 2 yr/24000 mile emission parts covered under the 5 yr/60,000 mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty, but it does not point out which ones fall under this note.
I hope you see why I am confused. Are these 80 items covered by 2 yr or by 5 yr warranty? They seems to say that are sure when the car is built, these components will insure the emission standard to be adhered to for 2 yrs. However, it they fail within 5 yrs, they will fix it free. I am just not sure if that is what it is saying.
Maybe this'll help (or not...): As an example, under the extended powertrain warranty, the exhaust manifold(s) is/are covered for 100,000 miles or 10 years. Under the Federal Emissions warranty that same component is covered for 24,000 miles or 2 years - and this is true regardless of vehicle make. However, most auto manufacturers do not have a 10/100 provision, so having 2/24 for the exhaust manifold is better than nothing. Under Hyundai/KIA's extended powertrain warranties, their original owners enjoy blanket replacement protection in the event of cracking on that component for the full 10/100 duration. To tell which specific components get the full-monty, check both your 5/60 and 10/100 sections to note the components covered by those warranties and then mark with a pen or pencil in your warranty supplement booklet* which of those specific components are listed under the Feds' 2/24 provision. Any components so marked will actually have longer coverage courtesy of the automaker's own warranty - at least while you own the vehicle.
*In perusing these forums for three years, you're the first poster other than myself who's bothered to reference cracking that publication open. More than once in my 45+ years' driving I've backed smart aleck service personnel into submission with pointed references to specific provisions in the printed warranty material. (They hate it when I do that.
What are my options in protecting the bumpers from this kind of abuse. We've tried the peel and stick black bumper guards, unfortuantley, after a year or two they start to fall off, sometimes peeling the paint with them.
But I've never heard whether or not they are on the '03, and just not activated by default. I also haven't seen them in the Owner's Manual, but in fairness, I've only been able to get part way through (the wife won't let me drive the car much, claiming that it's now HERS).
So, anyone know if the '03 was equiped with speed sensing automatic door locks? :confuse:
Has anyone seen it mentioned in the manual, seen an indicator when it actually turns on, or experienced it in any other way? It just seems odd to me to not mention it in the manual, and I want to be certain as to whether or not the car has TCS. I'd also really like to know if the "ESC ON/OFF" toggle button on the dash shuts off TCS, too, or if TCS can ever be shut off at all.
thanks,
Of course, it's not on mine, so it doesn't matter to me... until a few years from now, when I buy an '06 style Sonata (maybe a 2011 model?)
Just a thought:
Have that friend sit in the rear passenger-side seat, without anyone sitting in the front passenger seat. Recreate the scenerio where you hear the rattle, then ask them to listen closely to the seat to better pinpoint the location of the rattle. Dealers won't help at all unless a.) they can recreate the problem themselves, b.) a computer can tell them what's wrong, or c.) you tell them exactly where you think the problem is.
Yeah, this seems like a lot of work, but it's what I would do if I had a noise that was driving me nuts.
If you figure out what the problem was, and the solution, I'm sure there are a lot of people here that would be interested in hearing about it.
(If I ever win the PowerBall jackpot, my first purchase will be a Bentley Continental Silver Spur saloon. My second purchase will be the lifetime indentured servitude of Volkswagen Group's most astute troubleshooting technician - laws against slavery be hanged.)
The rattle is intermittent so I just put up with it ,move the headrest and turn the volume up the radio that will uselessly fix it,I have got use to it ,but to read that another person is experience the same problem (dd5) on a later model car you got to thing how many more are there out
When it's time for me to get a set of replacements, it's the OEM tires I'll be looking to purchase.
the above posters vouch for the bridgestones is the 5th or 6th i've seen for that same tire. it's the only alternative tire i've seen MULITPLE positive reccomendations over the michilens. good thing for consumersis, just because it's the most expensive does not mean it's neccessarily the best.
I have never known anyone to have a negative experience with Michelins. They are one of the most top rated brands in the world but even the most top rated brands make products that may not be appreciated by all.
If you like Bridgestone's, then by all means go for it. I, too, have no problem squeeling my tires on partial accelleration on dry pavement. I always chalked it up to the powerful V6 and the lack of a heavy front end.
If my Michelin's make it to 40K miles and continue to treat me well, I will certainly look at them again when time for replacement.
i just can't justify spending $200 per tire, especially if there performance doesn't exactly blow me away. although i would be greatly pleased if they manage to last that long, from what i understand low prifile tires of this size tend not to last that long.
If you step down to an H-rated tire, which is more than acceptable for 99% of the driving population, if it means anything Consumer Reports rated the Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S as a top tire as well. The only tire to score higher was the Dunlop SP Sport 5000. This tire is significantly cheaper than our stock Michelin and also has great wet and dry pavement performance. The Michelin actually scored at the top for best against Hydroplaning.
If your'e interested in Bridgestone, the Potenza RE950 scored well but no where near as good as the Michelin and Dunlop. Have you looked into the Dunlop?
I was never a Goodyear or BF Goodrich fan, but have had positive experiences in the past with Bridgestone and Dunlop. Based on the testing results, I think I would stick to Michelin and Dunlop if I had to buy new tires today.
This is CR's Top Picks:
Best for all weather conditions:
H-rated:
Dunlop SP Sport 5000, $81
Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S, $78
Falken Ziex ZE 512, $56
Others to consider if winter grip doesn’t matter:
H-rated:
Continental ContiProContact, $77
Michelin Pilot XGT H4, $98
Bridgestone Potenza RE950, $80
Have a great weekend dump_truck :shades:
Now you do. The Michelins that came OEM on my wife's '01 Elantra were not good. First, one tire was defective and would go flat as soon as it got warm at highway speeds. Went round and round with Michelin to get the tire replaced free as it had under 1000 miles on it. Eventually settled for half price and got the other half back after the tire was returned to Michelin for their inspection where they found it was indeed defective.
Also, my wife's Elantra had the wheel shimmy problem that you can read about on the Elantra forums. Balancing, etc, would not take care of it. We recently replaced the tires with non-Michelins and the problem has disappeared.
I had replaced the OEM Goodyear Eagle LS tires on my Galant with Michelins. Was fine for a while but one tire developed a slow leak. Slow enough that it only needed air every 4 or so weeks. Slow enough that tire shops couldn't find the problem to fix it and I couldn't get it replaced under warranty. I had to live with it until I got fed up enough to replace with new, again non-Michelin, tires.
Right now we're giving the Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds a whirl. A little more noise at highway speed than I'd prefer but traction in wet conditions is defintiely better than the Michelins. They should prove better in the forthcoming snow as well.
I'm not normally that enthused by Goodyear but I've not had any major problems with their tires. The worst issue has been poor wet traction on the Eagle LS lineup, but the TripleTred seems to have overcome that nicely.
I had Michelin energy savers on my commuter car. When they wore out (very noisy tires) I replaced them with Nokia WX's. They work great in rain and snow as well as dry. I will be replacing my Hankooks with them next summer on another Korean vehicle. They are a bit more expensive, though, coming in at $125 each. They are rated at 50k mile tires, and I got an extended warantee for ~9$ more.
If I were to have my oil change with the regular oil; should I use 5w-20, 5w-30, or 10w30? By the way I live in Northern California.
Thanks for all your inputs
txn428
FACT #1: Some engines are filled with synthetic oil at the factory.
FACT #2: Synthetic oils do not retard engine run-in.
FACT #3: Some dealership service writers are retarded.
If you want to use synthetic oil go ahead and do so. Some say do not change the factory-fill oil out early as it's a special break-in oil. That was true nearly 40 years ago and earlier, but as of the early '70s, machining precision allowed the use of standard, fully formulated detergent oils identical to what can be purchased in any autoparts deparment currently. That's what's installed in your engine - but automakers buy it in bulk quantity instead of by the quart so it can be dispensed automatically in metered quantity to the engine. The only difference is that during engine assembly, the worker bees slather a thick semi-liquid assembly pre-lube on all sliding parts to protect them upon 1st startup until the motor oil is pressurized and reaches the parts. Once that occurs, the pre-lube is washed into the oil where it blends. These pre-lubes are usually rich in a molybdenum-based anti-wear additive - so effectively there is something special in the factory-fill oil. Most current motor oil formulations also have molybdenum blended in. Those that don't, use alternate (and effective) antiwear chemistry. Honda, for one, pointedly states to leave the factory-fill oil in for the full duration. Hyundai is silent, but I suspect that taking the factory-fill out to 5K miles would be appropriate. Then, if you want to change out to synthetic, it's your money to spend as you please. You won't do damage with synthetic oil. Just be aware that Hyundai, so far as I'm aware, does not recognize the extended oil change intervals that synthetic oils claim to support. In other words, if you extend oil change intervals beyond the owner's manaul recommendations for your typical driving severity category, you may be jeopardizing your warranty rights. Hyundai's EPA-driven 5W-20 recommendation should be adequate, though your owner's manual also lists 5W-30 and 10W-30 as acceptable substitutes, climate chart permitting. Check the "DO-IT-YOURSELF-MAINTENANCE" section in your owner's manual. Hyundai, Ford, DaimlerChrysler (U.S. made models), certain Honda engines, and Toyota have embraced 5W-20 motor oil in engines provided for U.S. distribution. GM is still a bit cautious for some reason. I'm not aware of any Euro-automakers recommending 5W-20 to date. BMW and Mercedes-Benz are still filling their engines with 0W-40 to 15W-40 synthetic motor oils - even for vehicles bound for U.S. customers. BMW and M-B also recognize extended drain intervals to 10K miles and beyond, though. Your Hyundai V6 would probably thrive on a diet of Castrol Syntec "European Formula" 0W-30. I believe There's a comparable viscosity range Mobil 1 synthetic, too. That viscosity range flows better than 5W-20 when really cold, yet maintains superior "body" at operating temperature. To answer a question you didn't ask (or may not even care about), I use Phillips 66 TropArtic 10W-30 synthetic blend in my '03 Sonata V6 on 3K mile intervals.