Hyundai Sonata Care and Maintenance

txn428

Thanks for your reply. What's the benefits of synthetic oil over regular oil, besides a longer interval between oil changes? Does the regular oil protect the engine parts as well as the synthetic ones? Would I encounter future engine problem if I were to use regular oil @ a 3K mile interval oil change? It's best to used the factory oil till it reaches 5K miles or 3 months, whichever come first? If I were to use synthetic oil, would 5W-20 be ok? I got that as a recommendation from Mobil 1 website.

ray_h1

)) "What's the benefits of synthetic oil over regular oil, besides a longer interval between oil changes? Does the regular oil protect the engine parts as well as the synthetic ones? Would I encounter future engine problem if I were to use regular oil @ a 3K mile interval oil change?

Synthetics bring superior sludge and varnish formation resistance in hot weather conditions when running oil change intervals beyond 5K miles - especially if the vehicle sees a lot of short trips. The basis for synthetics' advantage here is both the more chemically stable synthetic base oil as well as superior and plentiful additive chemistry. For owners who consistently change or have their oil changed within 5K miles, synthetics offer no operational advantage in moderate driving conditions. Short trippers would be well advised to change conventional oils out at 3K miles, though, since that type of driving is considered severe service. Synthetics also have superior cold flow properties, so would be an advantage in really cold winter areas. If you were to change your oil and filter out every 3 mos/3K miles with modern conventional motor oils, your engine would have no trouble seeing 300K miles without significant wear of the major moving parts. (Contrary to popular urban myth, timing chains are not life of the engine components. They do wear out long before a well maintained engine tanks, and do so regardless of oil type used. On average, expect to have to replace a timing chain anytime after 160K miles, though some go significantly longer, some less.) Far be it from me to come off as being anti-synthetic, but modern conventional motor oils (rated API "SM") are so far removed from what was available as recently as five years ago as to be considered an entirely different breed. For one thing there is nearly universal reliance among major refiners on a superior refining technique known as "hydro-isomerization" - literally breaking undesirable molecules down under high heat and pressure and reforming them to very desirable lube molecules catalytically. (This lube oil technology was an outgrowth of German fuels' technology during WW-II. Subsequent to the Allies' victory, American petroleum engineers who toured German refineries were dumbfounded at what Germany had accomplished - feed in coal oil, let it cook, collect 104 octane av-fuel.) Anyone wanting more information about this subject might wish to attack The Synthetic Nature of Group III Base Oils Report on Chevron Oil's website. Warning - it's not light reading.

txn428

Thanks again for the very informative respond. In term of moderate driving condition, would 30 miles (of which 15 miles are stop and go traffic) commute a day would be consider as moderate? If that the case, can I change my oil with conventional oil in a 4K miles / 3 months interval?

txn428

julez613

Hey everyone, I'm new to the site, just wondering if I could get some help, I have looked around at many posts and see everyone is very helpful and timely! I have a 2006 Sonata, V6, 3.3. Ok, So we got it March, 2006. Since then, I have had nothing but problems with it. To start from the beginning, I had a 2005 Sonata and traded it in for the 2006 which was more sleeker looking and more comfortable, however the 2005, had transmission issues with only about 25,000 miles on it. Trouble shifting, loud noises all over, and many more issues. Now to the 2006. About 4 times now, I will go to take off from a stop light or whatever and the car will not accelerate. It will go to about 40 and not go anymore. My check engine light, ESC, Air Bag lights will all come on. I pull over, turn the car off and 2 times it went back to normal. The other times I took it to my local hyundai dealer and they turned the lights off, but didn't take care of the problem, because it keeps happening. SO yesterday this happens again, all my lights come on, I drive straight to the dealer, and they hook it up to a reader. They give me these codes: B1701(Air Bag), P2106, P1295,P0638(CEL), C1611, C1612(ABS(Does anyone know what these mean or where I can find Out)? Now they couldn't tell me what they meant, they said they had to look them up on the internet. So its now friday, they might not be able to get it in until monday, they are closed on the weekend, I work 2 jobs, this is the 2nd time I have had to leave my car there for days at a time and they NEVER fix it. What do I have to do to figure this OUT!??? :mad:

If anyone can please help me, I would really appreciate it!

Thanks!

*Heather*

hotrod54

Good grief...there is a diagnostic tree to follow to decipher codes. Sounds like they have techs who are not trained. Don't know what the codes mean, but I think I'd take it to another dealer. Good luck

Mr_Shiftright

GEEESH...I can't believe an authorized dealer told you that!

rhduke00

According to the 2006 Owner's Manual (OM), you should replace the air conditioner (cabin air) filter every year or 10,000 miles whichever comes first. I didn't notice this item in the OM until the other day. I've had my Sonata for just over a year but I've put 22,000 miles on it so I'm about 12,000 miles late. Anyway, I bought a new filter from my dealer's part department for $39.95 (included sales tax) and replaced the old filter which was really dirty with the new one. The OM shows how to do it on pages 6-22 and 6-23. It's easy and takes just a few minutes

daveri

I bought a 2000 Sonata v4 with around 60,000 miles. recently it has been running rough, stalling and losing power. I took it to the Hyundai dealership and had the 60,000 scheduled maintenance done- plugs, filters, oil change, drive belts etc. I didn't replace the timing belt at that time. The car still runs rough and loses power.Does anyone have an idea as to what could be the problem? Also the price for replacing the timing belt would be $510. This seems a bit high. Is it necessary to go through a factor dealership for this maintenance or can I go to a less expensive garage?

craigbrooks

Question...did you have them diagnose the problem before you went to all that expense? I've learned not to self diagnose let the shop do it. I've had parts replaced and not solved my problem. They probably told you that changing the plugs and wires would fix it. That seems to be a common fix for rough running. They should not have let you take the car if it was still not running properly. I would think they would hook up the scanner and find a way to take more of your money.

Regarding the timing belt, anybody can do it just keep your receipt.

juniper875

Dear Heather...

I feel your pain...this just happened to me yesterday! Except for me it was just the check engine light and the ESC light...then a total loss of power...i was terrifie to drive to the dealer..i could only get up to 40mph on the entrance ramp... When I hear from my dealer, if they tell me anything worthwhile, I will let you know. Here is the kicker...I just bought mine 10 days ago!!!

Amanda

daveri

Craig- when I brought it in for service, I told them that it was running rough but to start with the scheduled maintenance to see if that would fix it. my mistake. however I did expect them to diagnose the problem when it didn't go away with the scheduled maintenance. I just dont want to get into paying $510 for the timing belt and find out that still runs rough.

craigbrooks

Have them do a diagnosis before they do anything else. I'd also ask in a nice way why they let you have the car back still running bad.

tb5605

as a 40 year retail retiree from goodyear this applies toall brands / in most cases you tire problems are caused by road hazards / lack of rotation /wheel balance and rotation

juniper875

Heather...

Just heard from my Hyundai Dealer because I had this same problem (without the airbag light). I was told that it was a problem with the Transmission Control Module...and that the computer had to be reset. I asked if this was a common problem, and they said that they had never seen it before. Hope this helps...Good Luck

Amanda

aalsherri

I have a 2007 Sonata and I like the performance of the air conditioner. I am worried about the reliabilty. So far no problems but I am sure that the first system to go bad in most cars is the airconditioner. Toyota put reliable airconditioners in its cars. I have a friend with a 1999 Camry and his air conditioner still works. How about hyundai cars? Any data or experience?

chief15

I've owned my 2006 Sonata GLS for two years now and use the air conditioner about 90% of the time here in Hawaii. It cools very quick and has never given me any troubles. Most reliable a/c that I've ever had in a car.

aalsherri

Thanks chief. It looks to me the Koreans are trying to tell the Japanese we are just a step behind you big brother.

I believe the Consumers Reports reliability history of Hyundai cars is not accurate because most of the data covered old cars. New Koreans cars 2006+ are much better and more reliable than old cars. So the long term reliability should be high. However, the reliability of the new Japanese cars was not changed and may be lower due to the introduction of cheap parts to reduce cost.
A 60,000 miles warranty cannot be sustained without the use of quality parts and engines.

thedgs

Hi,

We have a 2006 Sonata V6, similar type of problem. The Check Engine and ESC Off lights come on occasionally during hard acceleration (aka flooring it), and the vehicle loses power. Have to pull over, turn the car off, then after restarting car, the ESC Off light goes out, Check Engine light stays on for a day or two, then goes out. Vehicle drives normally after restarting. Dealer replaced the throttle position sensor, and it still had the same problem right after I picked it up. Back in at the dealer today. We tried to recreate the problem but could not and the check engine light had already gone off. The dealer stated that no error codes were stored. I have a feeling that is a transmission control module problem (adaptive learning problem) like Amanda described. I'll let you know if I find anything out.

George

thedgs

Amanda - did that fix it? See my post #272.

Thanks

vegas60

Where on a 2005 sonata would you find the drain plug to drain and refresh coolent?
Thanks....Linda

burry1

I just got a 2007 Sonata today. The dealer offers a paint sealant with 3 year warranty for $159. I passed for now, but wondered if others have found a sealant to be necessary? The dealer said that since they have moved to water-based paints in 2005, the paint is very sensitive to tree sap, bugs, bird droppings, in other words, things you cannot avoid. Are you finding problems with the paint on your Sonata? Also, can I seal it sufficiently by myself or should I spring for the dealer's sealant? Thanks for your thoughts.

chief15

I think that it is a good deal for the dealer.

My 2006 Sonata is over two years old and has never been garaged. The paint looks like new (silver) although it has never been waxed. I chamois it when it is wet (rain or dew), which is almost every day, I live right next to a freeway which spews freeway pollution, and when the birds leave their deposits, I clean it off.

BTW, I live in Oahu, Hawaii, where the sun beats down on the car every day.

backy

IMO if you don't like to wax a car, you might want to go for the dealer's sealant--especially if they reapply it regularly. Otherwise, buy a bottle of good car wax and enjoy the pleasure of shining it up yourself.

mkv1

Hey all, I searched this thread for AC and all I got was a few posts about how great the AC is in the 06 and 07 sonatas. Let me say that for the last two years I would have agreed until it was 104 degrees and mine stopped working! :sick:
It all started when I took my car in for a 30k checkup (at almost 40k miles) I was getting bad readings from my ambient temp gauge so I asked them to take a look. They said they fixed it and I left happy. About a week later I started having trouble with the AC. Basically it would blow cold for a minute, then warm for 10 then blow cold for 3 then hot for 5 and cold for 20! It seemed so random. So then I took the car back and told them what I just told you. They looked at it all day and then told me they couldn't find anything wrong. I picked up the car and it seemed to be find again. Sure enough a week later I am getting the same problem. Does anyone have any suggestions or related experience?? Any advice would help and no suggestion is too simple, I am a complete car novice. Of course I am taking it back but thought I might come with some suggestions if they tell me there is nothing wrong again.
Thanks

Thanks!

backy

Just a thought... someone on the Civic discussion said his Civic would blow hot whenever the engine was idling. His dealer said nothing was wrong. Someone else with the same symptoms said it was low refrigerant, and when that was fixed the problem was solved. Of course, if it is low refrigerant on such a new car then it could be due to a leak in the system.

thedgs

It appears we finally have this solved with some reprogramming/adjustment. Apparently Sonota will issue a Technical Service Bulletin on this issue in Sept. '07

mkv1

Thanks for the reply. I don't think its entirely related to idling although may be a similar problem. I am sure that they would have checked refrigerant levels at the dealership right? although they did say they "couldn't get it to act up" so maybe they never checked anything assuming all was well. I will go check the refrigerant. actually kind of embarrassed that I didn't think of that myself already. THAANKS!

tomk17

I just bought a 2006 Sonata LX with the 3.3L V6. I plan to have it for 80-100K miles more. I typically run the K&N reusable (cleanable) air filters in my cars that I plan to keep for a while- saves $ in the long run. With the Sonata I'm thinking it may help the gas mileage a bit as well. I often hear mileage claims all over the map ranging from real bad to good. I know driving styles play into it significantly.

Anyone using the K&N filter??

tsharris

My husband found himself on the PA Turnpike with his 2006 Sonata 4c engine smoking. New head gasket and engine block (the rod shot right through the old one) completed under warranty. One week later, the ac is gone -- motor works fine, but there is no cooling. Could these be related?
Thanks!

effect18

I know i have to have my car serviced after the first 3000 miles, and I know that if I fail to do so that I may be voiding my warranty, but I was wondering if I go past the 3000mi mark by a few miles will they have the right to hold that against me and say I didnt make timely adequate maintnance? I dont want a couple miles to come back to haunt me.

backy

No, that is not a problem.

macakava

I am not using K & N, just the regular filters.

But to keep my cars over 10 years, I change my oil and filter every 4 months or 3K miles, whichever comes first. It is cheap insurance and easy to do. In fact I did the first oil change on my 4 month old Sonata Limited V6 over the weekend. Fram filter kit cost about $7.50 at Walmart and crankcase hold about 5.5 qts oil. I buy my oil(Castrol GTX, Pennzoil, etc) on sale for under $1 per qt at stores like Pep Boys with rebates. So my total oil change is about $13 with brand name parts.

tomk17

I did in fact get the K&N filter and installed it a few weeks ago. $35 and free shipping. After 3 "changes" it's paid for and you can always keep it clean. I'm fantizing that mileage will improve but have not seen it. Still get an average of 26 MPG in mixed driving. PS I'm doing the synthetic oil thing as well. Using factory oil filter and running the oil 10K.

effect18

I was wondering... while driving over a rough patch of road on the highway, I hit my brakes on my 2007 Sonata Lt. to slow down, and something popped on my front right side wheel. Thinking it was a flat tire I went to pull over, to realize my breaks had malfuncioned and my car hit a curb on the side of the road pretty hard. My rotor cracked and fell apart, as did my brakes and caliper. Upon hitting the curb I have damage to both rims on my right side and a minor scratch on the front bumper. My question is will my warranty cover damage in an accident caused by a brake malfunction?

backy

The dealer would need to determine that the damage was caused by a problem with the car.

tsharris

Have them check for a leak. But, since it would still be under warranty, schedule your leak test for a Friday and then when they don't find anything (if it is small, it will take a while) ask that they keep it over the weekend and check again on Monday. We were told by our service guy that if they did that it would be covered under warranty - but the second we drove it away while they were leak testing it, we would have to pay for the leak testing...go figure.

targettuning

Ah, something doesn't sound quite right with your account of what supposedly happened. Even if the brakes somehow malfunctioned several things would happen..1. you would be informed of a partial brake failure by the illumination of the brake warning lamp on the dash. Which by definition this would have informed you of a brake failure allowing you to carefully (more carefully?) come to a stop. 2. a total brake failure is not very common these days with all cars having two separate brake systems (one front brake and one rear diagonally opposed) so even if one caliper failed or one part of the master cylinder failed the other should be able to stop the car (with longer stopping distances).
I have seen the aftermath of several violent side impact crashes where the car having been knocked out of control goes on to jump curbs and some higher dividers on the highway and never have I seen a brake rotor crack and fall apart (they are fairly robust due to their intended function) let alone the caliper. Must have been some hit then. This may have happened exactly as you say but I have reservations about the account.
To answer the question though...if Hyundai can verify that a part malfunctioned originally and this caused further damage by your inability to stop safely then I would say yes.

hotrod54

I'm with targettuning...you mention a rough patch of road...were there potholes and did you brake upon hitting the potholes or did you let the car roll through? (preferable, by the way).If you brake upon entering a pothole, you can do severe damage to tires and wheels.

effect18

Yea, i know... it sounds kinda crazy, but the brake light did come on after i heard the sound. And yes, it smacked that curb pretty hard cuz I was on the freeway, and was trying to pull over as close to the side as possible. But never would I have expected the damage that I saw. If there were potholes I didnt see them, it was more of a severly warped cement, like pressure grooves but deep, upon seeing them I braked as I went over them. Well, I guess i am kinda stuck with paying for this one cuz I guess anyone could say the brakes failed when they get into an accident. I just hope when they inspect the car they find the proof they need to determine that i'm telling the truth.

effect18

A lil bit of an update... Hyundai had an inspector check my car out, and they covered everything. They had my car about 2 and a half weeks, but when I got it back is was like new, including my complimentary oil change. They seemed more concerned with wether I or anyone else was hurt, then if I was trying to defraud them. Now THATS what I call service! In seven to ten years when i'm ready to buy another car... i'll definetly consider a Hyundai, and my first stop will be Maxon. Check em out, if your interested in good service.

blknyte

I am confused about which multi-weight conventional engine oil to use in
my 2006 Hyundai Sonata LX, with a 3.3 liter, 6 cylinder engine. The oil
cap says "5W20" but the owners manual indicates that 5W20, 5W30 or 10W30 is acceptable. I live in New Jersey where the temperature could reach nearly 100 degrees in summer and the low single digits in winter. I drive about 12,000 miles per year under normal conditions. I never used a 20W oil before, since I always thought it was too thin for high temperature operation. I thought that a 5W30 or 10W30 could be used, providing excellent protection all year long. Now I really don't know what to put in the crankcase. I am interested in the best protection possible for my engine, and not really concerned if I don't get the optimum mpg, which I guess is why the manufacturer recommends 5W20. Any suggestions?
Thank you.

craigbrooks

I run 5-30 in my 06 2.4 year round here in Montana. I'm like you 20W seems a little thin for summer highway driving.

kimweigel

I too, am running a K&N air filter in my '06 Sonata V6. I've run several of these in the past, and noticed that mileage doesn't seem to pick up right away, but slowly inches up after several thousand miles.
Mileage is slowly increasing in my Sonata, but I do a lot of highway driving. I usually get 27-29 highway. I can do better without cruise than with it.
Recently I replaced the CABIN air filter. That's the one behind the glovebox. It filters the air inside the car. (owners manual: page 6-22).
Instead of running to the dealer and paying 38-44 dollars for a new one, I went to Home Despot and bought a furnace filter big enough to cut out 4 "cabin air filters" for 16.00.
All their furnace filters are an inch thick, and the Hyundai filter is about an inch and a quarter, but you can certainly cut the Home Depot one to fit the shape of Hyundai's little square plastic tray with a good pair of household shears.
I traced the outline of my old filter onto my new furnace filter with a sharpie four times, started cutting, and, voila, 4 filters for 16.00 vs: 1 for 40.00. This will come in handy, especially since my wife also has a Sonata.
Now what to do with the 144.00 I just saved. Maybe I'll buy those 85.00 Hyundai floormats that come in the trunk of the new car, but aren't included in the price. Naaaah!

herbie63

Hi, I am wanting to change my oil filter (well over due!!!) but can't locate it!!! Yeah i know dumb question but I am serious, the owners manual doesn't tell you sqat. I have a 2000-01 sonata 2.5l 6cyl auto

craigbrooks

stupid question but here goes....how long have you had the car? :confuse:

Any quickee lube place will know where it is.

herbie63

Well thanks for getting back so quick. problem solved! thank god for husbands!!!!! It is located just forward of the sump plug hidden by the stone guard, must have been a male design (sorrry to all u blokes out there 4 I am woman)
FYI I won the car comming on to 7 years ago and just love her to bits.
Thanks again
Herbie from OZ

lxlover

We just moved from the US to Canada, have two 2006 Sonata LX's, and I just found out from Hyundai USA that the US warranty is no longer transferable to Canada! I was told the US used to have a 'gentleman's agreement' with Canada, whatever that means, as far as warranty work, but that is no longer in effect. I was told that if I have to have warranty work done I'll have to take the car back to the US for the work! To me that sounds a little silly so I'll have to investigate more. Any comments or info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

whisper1

07 V6.
The first 2 oil changes were done at the dealer, total $40 and $45, respectively. Too much IMO. The things I didn't like were $5 for checks and $1 for doc fee; the $5 check changed to $10 on the 2nd time.

I called the dealer to discard the $10 visual check and was told part of the package, can't do. They do not offer a plain oil/filter :mad: . So last night I got the 3rd oil change at a local shop, total $31 oil/filter/check/tire rotation/top up after coupon. The oil filter on the invoice is L35610, Internet shows it is a Puralator.

This morning, I heard some tapping noise for ~4s after the engine fired up, louder at the beginning and gone by 4s. Outside temp was near 0c. I don't recall hearing this noise before and it wasn't there when I pickup the car last night.

Questions:
1) Is the aftermarket filter any good? I read TSB 05-20-002 "USE OF AFTERMARKET ENGINE OIL FILTERS CAUSING ENGINE KNOCKING NOISE" dated July 2005. I don't know if this is the case for me.

2) Is the oil filter installation idiot proof? I read the 2 O rings should be changed but the puralator website shows only the filter, without the O rings.

3) Do you just pure 6 packs of oil in? Check unnecessary?

I just moved the car out the garage, I will drive it later and listen for the noise. I am pretty sure it is just on a cold engine as I heard nothing from during the shop to home trip last night.

craigbrooks

If you took it anyone other than Hyundai I'd keep a close eye on the oil level. Some "local" shops can't grasp the process of changing the filter and muck it up.

Read too many posts stating this.

sonlx

Hello,
I took my 03 Sonata LX to NTB (National Tire and Battery) to have the alignment fixed. They fixed the alignment and very well at that, but the problem of my car pulling left even when in the right lane of the highway was not resolved. Long story short, they found my front passenger side Camber to be off by -0.7 degrees. Camber on the sonata is unadjustable. Some suspension component is most likely bent, warped, or broken and I was wondering if anyone has had to deal with camber issues and how they fixed the problem. What component was damaged and causing the camber offset? If a part was replaced, did that fix the camber issue?
Any and all information is greatly Appreciated!
Thank You