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thanks
tjk
Oh, yes, the free oil changes and free washes were frosting on the cake, plus the free roadside assistance. Are you happy with the service dept. at Metro?
BTW, we didn't opt for any extra protection packages through the dealer other than the Armor coating (we regreted passing on this on our Camry). We figured that our AAA membership covers the main things that we occasionally need. We arranged financing through our credit union, which had a protection package that was almost the same as Metro's (fuel injectors weren't covered, but that was the only difference) for $700 less, but we put so few miles on our cars (our '93 Camry doesn't even have $100,000 yet) that the financial officer at the CU said it probably wasn't worth it. We did buy gap insurance through the CU, which was a couple extra dollars a month to cover the difference between depreciation over the first few years and the loan payoff, and at $375 for the life of the loan, insurance that pays off the balance of our loan if one of us dies before it's paid off. Cheaper than any life insurance I know, especially since we're no spring chickens!
Second: I am still seeing the Summer Hyundai Challenge TV Spots with the 2006 V6 Models priced at $16,495, after a $3000 Rebate, including loyalty. How can anyone pass up an offer like that?. :confuse:
The V6s have $1500 more rebate plus a bigger markup for dealers to play with. So it is possible to get a GLS V6 for about the same or even less than an I4. There's the little thing of gas, but I hope no one slaps themselves upside their head later and says, "I coulda had a V6!"
Actually, when I bought my '02 Elantra in December of 2001, Metro was great. The sales experience was the best I'd ever experienced. The service dept. seemed good too until mine hit the mileage/date point when Hyundai corporate stopped sending the follow-up surveys. At that point, requests for warranty service were always met with the "we can't find anything wrong" attitude. This happened on multiple occasions. So I have just lived with a turn signal that doesn't cancel on left turns, one tweeter that crackles and a couple of trim pieces on the rear doors that fall out whenever the weather is cold. I've also had the annoying shimmy issue, but that's gone at the moment (an independent tire shop resolved this). Other than these niggles, the car has been very solid.
I may buy another Hyundai, but I wouldn't do it from Metro again. BTW, that VIP program is only good if you rigidly follow Metro's service schedule (which is more intensive than the severe interval listed in the owner's manual and includes a ton of superfluous "inspection checks" for pure dealer profit - God only knows if they even look at your car before they put a check mark in each of those fifty little boxes). Read: there's no such thing as a free oil change. You'll pay for it one way or another.
A guy I work with bought his Hyundai from the same place and has been similarly disgusted with their service dept. He followed Metro's maintenance schedule to 60K for the "free" oil changes and then parted ways. I think the best way to play them is to get the first couple of oil changes pro bono and when they give you the "this is your last free oil change unless you follow the Metro schedule" line, take your business down the road to one of the other shops.
Good luck!
no additional option) for $18,100 + tax/tag in Fairfax, VA.
The car is for my wife, but I'm driving it during the break-in period. Very nice car all around. Only complaint so
far is a squeaking sound from passenger side.
I was looking for a 2006 model, but there was only one left
on the lot. It had the Sunroof option, and the price would
have been $17,800.
Anyone here in this forum, think $15k out the door price possible for 2006 GLS model ?
Sale Price of Car: $16,838.00...Only additional costs are Tax, Title and Plates
No rebate taken as I went for the 1.9% financing.
You know the "Hyundai Challenge" Spots on TV offer a 2006 GLS V6 Sonata for $16,495 after rebates, so I have no idea what type of "haggling" you did. Plus an email quote is just to get you in the door. I know you mentioned that's the out the door price, so if you can get it at the "special email price", do so. Of course today being the end of the month would have probably yielded you a far better price than let's say tomorrow?.
Thanks -Ron
Tried a Honda Accord, found that like Papa Bear’s chair and bed, it rode too hard and was rather noisy. It was ruled out by the end of my test drive. Mama Bear was a Camry, which probably is a bit nicer than the Sonata, but it isn’t $4000 nicer. Also, my preference for a manual trans doesn’t seem to exist, although it is listed in their brochure.
Had joined pricing site where local dealers send you bids on desired car. One said he didn’t have a manual. Another one did and I emailed him that I would be by 11:30–12 for a test drive the following Saturday. When I got there, they couldn’t find the car. According to their website, three manuals were available. The salesman finally found out what had happened: someone had torn the you-know-what out of the clutch and the car (there was now only one available) was on the rack awaiting parts. I wouldn’t buy a new car in that condition and told them I would keep looking. It would have been nice if they would have emailed about this situation. Additionally, that car was Powder White Pearl, a color I didn’t care for and didn’t want to blow $200 extra on.
Went even further than the 40 minutes I had already spent going to another dealer. Asked the salesman there if they had any manuals and he said an ‘06 might be hard to find but he found one and let me drive it extensively. I asked if there were any more and we combed the lot until we came across an Aquamarine GL w/manual which was the car I bought.
Negotiations over the price/trade-in were lengthy: a slight dent in the right front fender of my Focus trade-in was their wedge. They initially offered $9000, I wanted 10,600. Only when they said there was no place to take any money from the selling price did I mention the ‘holdback’, which on this car came to $320. I must credit them with not even blinking when I did this. Between the holdback and my being quite stubborn I got $9860 for my car. OTD price w/rebate was 17,345. Pardon me for briefly shouting:
H-O-W-E-V-E-R!
The service department was not open on weekends. I was given a valet key to drive the car. So I had no regular key, no key fob and no owner’s manual. I have to wonder why these parts are not ready and included when I bought the car. Returned the following Wednesday with finance check. Had to wait quite a while at the parts department to have keys cut. There was only one fob available, they ordered another and the manual to be mailed to me. I was told I would have to bring the car in to have the fobs coded. A person there mentioned that I might have this done at a closer dealership but they might charge me for it. That means I would have to take time off from work, drive 90 miles roundtrip. Besides the inconvenience and expense of taking time off from work, I figure it would cost an additional and unnecessary $9 for gas.
I live in an area where cars are frequently broken into. Without the fob, I don't think I can set the alarm. Have sent email stating most of this to Hyundai Customer Affairs, but there has been no response. Will call up their hotline to see if I can have this car serviced elsewhere.Have downloaded PDF manual from Hyundai website. Sad to say to potential buyers: check whether they have all the parts attached to the car and if you can get them easily. The dealer’s name is Bob Lewis Hyundai in San Jose, CA.
There is something very strange in all this: the fact that there was only one fob, it wasn't already coded to the car, and the manual was missing. This reminds me a bit of when I bought an Elantra in 2004. The jack was missing. That and the miles on the car being strange were tip-offs that the car had been in auto shows for several months, sat in by thousands of people. The dealer neglected to tell me this, until I challenged them on it. Anyway, there may be nothing going on in your case, but it's just a little odd.
Could this be a good time to pick up a Sante Fe with the hugh rebate inasmuch as gas prices will probably not go higher, but more likely lower? :confuse:
Deepwater Blue with beige interior. Loaded except for sunroof and 6cd changer. Out the door price of $18,300.00 plus tax, title, license. Dealer threw in carpet mats, tinted windows and pinstripe none of which were on the sticker.
Has been a great experience thus far, 1000 miles on the vehicle in 2 weeks.
And Out the Door, then plus T, T, & L, really isn't out the door?
Oh, and Mats & Stripes kinda come with. Plus that free first Tank of Petrol. :shades:
This is NOT a competition.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/strategies/articles/102525/article.html
As a comparison lets say the cost of the car is $20,000.
For me tax would be $1,735.00
If I lived in a state where tax was 3% the tax amount would be $600.00
So my OTD price would be $21,735 and the other persons would be $20,600. So even though the cost of the car was the same ...the OTD price is significantly different.
So STOP USING OTD. It means nothing.
My conclusion about this is that people who insist on boasting their OTD price do not truly understand what and how much they are paying for the car.
If you don't, just skip the posts that have 'em and you'll be all set! Nice to know what folks are paying across the country.
The Sandman
i.e. 18,000 complete, tax 1200.00, tag 50.00, license paperwork 200.00 for a OTD of 19450. see..easy. nothing to get all bent out of shape about and we can all see the cost of the car, and the cost of the OTD stuff.
Of course make sure you know what the County & City charges too?. For example In Miami-Dade I pay a half % more then let's say Sandman in Broward County. And by the way, this is not just about Tax. It's about one's perception of what OTD means. The Writer at Edmunds understands all this much better it seems!
I think what clouds the issue is the many uninformed buyers may negotiate a price of, say, $20K and then pay an additional BS fee of, say $1K, more which is direct profit to the dealer. I've seen doc. fees listed on these forums as low as $39. Mine had a $479.50 doc. fee in a different state. But my bottom line before (and after) fees paid to the state were considerably lower, so I didn't care how much the doc. fee was.
2006/7 Hyundai Sonata GL/GLS/SE/LX/Limited (pick one)
Options: (please list all options, including dealer-provided add-ons)
MSRP including destination charge: $xx,xxx
Plus dealer-added markup (if actually paid--hopefully not!): $x,xxx
Less dealer discount (includes rebates to dealer): $x,xxx
Less rebates to buyer (would be helpful to break these down): $x,xxx
Plus taxes & fees (would be helpful to itemize): $x,xxx
= Final price: $xx,xxx
OTD prices are nearly WORTHLESS.
Break out the price by providing the vehicle price and how it is equipped and then include the fees if you feel you must.
In IL the doc fee is limited by law to less than $53.00. In some other areas of the country I understand the document fees may be slightly higher.
IMO doc. fees are about the same as ADM. Bottom line, what is the dealer charging (putting in his pocket) for the car I want. Dealer "A" offers a car for $18,000 and has dealer fees of $900; Dealer "B" offers the same exactly equipped car for $18,200 and has dealer fees of $200. Which one would you buy?
Dealer fees are limited by state law to less than $60. $900 or $200 dealer fees are ILLEGAL.
Back in 1991 I bought a new car and at that time the dealer I bought from had a $79 dealer fee.
In 2005, the CT Hyundai dealer had a dealer fee of $398.50. This is even mentioned in the small print of their newspaper ads. The FL dealer I did buy from had a dealer fee of $479.50. This fee was pre-printed on the sales agreement. I didn't care about the dealer fee because the total amount I paid to the dealer, including the fee, was considerably less than the CT dealer wanted before his fee. Then the CT guy also was going to add $500 advertising fee.
Fitzmall, a very competitive dealership via internet, has a $99 fee which they say is typically $100 in Maryland and up to $300 in Virginia.
I won't doubt your state's law, but you cannot assume that all states have the same laws.
Correct! Which is the exact reason OTD prices are insufficient information to use for pricing comparison.