By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I did it to my 95 to check the size of the door speakers.
The one thing the experience taught me was not to let any local yocal change my door speakers. The amount of wires on that panel was scary.
Regarding the surging/bucking problem - evidently I had either bad gas, a clogged injector, or both. I took the car in for the oil change on a Friday, and had last gassed up about 60 miles away from home at an Amoco station I was near (not one I go to regularly). After complaining to the dealer (who drained the oil and re-changed the filter), they ran diagnostics on it and couldn't find anything. On a lark, they put some GM InjectorGuard in. The car still surged and ran rough for a couple of days after I picked it up (most prevalent if the car (black) was left to sit in the sun), but, after putting some miles on it, and putting a couple of tanks of gas in it (letting it get down to 3-4 gallons left), it's been running fine.
I guess it was just a coincidence and not dealer incompetence (other than the extra quart and a half of oil they put in :-). It took a day or so, but the oil pressure gauge is now working fine as well/not reading 70-80 psi all of the time.
--Robert
who is probably going to start doing his own oil changes anyway.
Also, I listed some differences between my '95 Aurora's problem and the two previous post. Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
Previous two Post:
Post 1/Problem
#171 of 207 Tranny by jimpp77 Jun 22, 2002 (01:42 pm)
I have a '95 with about 64,000 miles. At about 63,000 the tranny started slipping while going from 1st to second........
Re:/Soln
#173 of 207 Jimpp77 Tranny by aurora5000 Jun 24, 2002 (01:04 pm)
... "Lubeguard" for the transmission. ...
#175 of 207 Tranny by Henry Jun 26, 2002 (07:40 pm)
.....a computer problem with a relay or module or something....
Post 2/Problem
169 of 207 SURGING by isuamy Jun 21, 2002 (01:21 pm)
.....WHEN ACCELERATING SLOWLY MY CAR WILL SURGE. MY RPM'S FLUXUATES, BUT IT ONLY DOES THIS AFTER WARMING UP.
Re:/Soln
#170 of 207 ISUAMY RE. surging by mike98c Jun 21, 2002 (08:08 pm)
Not to sound like a one topic person BUT check the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
- * * * What's different with my car * * * - - - -
For the past month or so, the car has felt unresponsive when accelerating.
Yesterday, the Service Engine Soon(SES) light came on. At the same time, the car seemed to have lost all power, even though the car was running at about 3k - 4k rpm. The car, however, did make it the final 3 miles to my house.
After letting the car sit over night, I took it out for a test drive the next day. The SES light did not come on when the car started or when I was driving at low speeds. However, when I did try to punch it and accelerate, the SES light came on, the car's RPMs went up to about 3 - 5k, the car seemed to lag for a few seconds, and then the car seemed to have slammed into gear and started to accelerate like normal.
I've checked the transmission fluid, it might be low, but not by a lot. Don't know if the filters have been changed. Car did have 100K check up. Since the 100k, the A/C's went out and hasn't been replaced - it is the A/C's clutch.
So, does this sound similiar to the above problems.
Could it be:
1) FPR.
2) Computer relay or similiAR
3) OR Needs Lubeguard
THANKS
I went to the dealer and her confirmed my worst nightmare. It will not be until the car does not start at all, that they will be able to find the problem.
I am taking a trip that requires a ferry ride. Any bets that the car won't start when it comes time to take it off the ferry???
I figure that after getting stuck in the Holland tunnel under the Hudson River, the ferry is the next logical water crossing debacle.
When I bought my '97 in 1999, I noticed that the left lower mounting point moved around as the trunk opened and closed. Pulling back the trunk liner revealed that the 1.5" x 3" mounting plate had pulled loose from its four spot welds (one in each corner) and had been "repaired" with four self-tapping screws -- woefully inadequate for the forces exerted on the mounting plate. I drilled out the welds, and fashioned a backing plate from 1/8" aluminum stock which I drilled and tapped for 10-32 cap screws. I then assembled this with the backing plate outside the truck, clamping the body sheet metal between it and the original mounting plate on the inside of the trunk.
Last week the right side mounting plate pulled loose at its top two welds. I repaired this one without a backing plate, figuring that two 10-32 cap screws I added at the top would be strong enough. BTW, the welds did not fail; instead, the sheet metal tore away at the weld locations.
You're right, there is a TSB for the rain-water-in-the-trunk problem, which my dealer installed, and it does a fairly good job. I've never seen a TSB for the broken weld problem.
More specifically, the check engine light was on. The car would not shift correctly. In particuliar, it would no shift into any gear higher than second.
After putting the car into the shop twice, I have what hope to believe the final soluntion.
The first time the car was in the shop it was discovered the car's computer was holding two error codes concerning the transmission. Clearing the codes allowed the transmission to shift into 3rd & 4th and drive normally.
The error codes suggested a stuck valve or a bad solenoid. The mechanic suggested to wait and see if this was a one time thing or if the valve needed replaced. We did flush out the transmission on the off chance any debris was causing the valve to stick.
After driving the car approx. 45 miles, the problem reoccurred. The check engine light came back on and the car could no longer drive faster than 45.
Took back to the shop, removed the valve body and replaced the shift solenoid.
Car apprears to be running fine. Haven't driven far,though. If something goes wrong with this fix, I'll write back.
My sister is thinking about buying a '95 Aurora with 110,000 miles on it. I told her I'd do a little research on the internet and I know this site is a great resource - my wife and I bought a '99 Alero earlier this year after reading up on them here and have extremely pleased with it. This Aurora is being sold privately for $5,500. Now, I have always stayed away from high mileage cars (with the exception of my Miata - 94,000 miles and running strong
My questions are: Does anyone have advice on Auroras with such high mileage? Does anyone own one with this much or higher mileage and what kind of problems should she expect??
Thanks!!
Greg
Have owned it since June and LOVE the car!!!
Mike
LEFT ME STRANDED!!! DIC read SHUT OFF ENGINE NOW!!! So I pulled over on the shoulder of the highway, open the hood, and the accesory belt was shreaded. There was also coolant all over the back of the engine bay/ground. I'm calling the water pump the guilty colperate.
I was PO'ed. Lock her up and start walking. Next exit had an Acura dealer where they called Enterprise for me. Now tonight I gotta get it towed to the dealer, 15mi. away.
ERRRRRRR
800wattAURORA
Had it towed 60 miles, at quite some cost. Water pump drive belt went, only a $30.00 dealer repair, water pump was fine.
Still wonder why routine service doesn't seem to include inspecting belts and hoses anymore. What was left of the belt was so obviously dry rotted I can't believe even I missed it. Of course, I stupidly thought the serpentine belt was the only drive belt.
Lesson Learned, at a cost.
Although, I did have the advantage of hearing the "sounds of the ocean" while I waited for resque, at least you guys got a warning. I had nothing but a dead car.
Still the reigning
SHOP KING
Yours truly,
Henri
At least in the Holland tunnel, I presume your cell phone (if you have one) worked? At least you had traffic going through the tunnel - there was NOBODY on the road where I was, just deer. I had to climb a tree just to get reception on my brick-sized analog phone (yikes :-). The AAA operator couldn't understand why I didn't want to give my membership number out right away (because I'm too busy holding onto this tree with one hand, and the phone with the other! :-)
So, that's why I religiously check/frequently change my car's belts. Of course, I left out the part about seeing a tornado near the gas station where my car was towed :-)
--Robert
Aurora DRLs started with the '96 model. I believe there is a kit available from dealers for ~$50 to disable them. I have not looked into how the kit works or if there is a reasonable alternative.
You should be aware that according to most studies they claim DRL lowers accident rates, I don't know why but they do claim this. For safety I drive w/my parking lights and fog lights on. Looks nice too.
If you can't find the resistor to unplug (it's just a black plastic U shaped thingy), let me know or check alldata...that's where I found mine.
--Sean
Driving with parking lights on is illegal in many (most/all) states. Parking lights on means "parked" -- not moving.
Francois
Henri - I have now redemed myself from the pivoting front wheels comment.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
I know this from experience. My '98 had an intermittent bad speed sensor. Speed sensor problems are not uncommon is the AURORA.
Like I said, it's a long shot. If it is a speed sensor, repairs at a Olds dealer will run appx $130. Good luck!!
For reference, consider that new tires usually have 10/32 tread, and are worn when they have 2/32. So, in the course of wearing down the tires you would see 8/32 x 2 = 16/32 = .5 inch difference in height. That more of a difference than the 17's make.
Another take - with wear, they will sit as high as the stock tires new.
If you want the 17's maybe you can still get a good deal where I got mine. You will have to get the center caps from the dealer because they don't supply original centers. The wheels are the silver ones (probably scratched up or something so GM dumps them) that are stripped and re-chromed. They look good - no problems so far, but I haven't been through winter with them yet.
With tax, and all + buying the centers from the dealer (and getting killed on that) it was about $900 I think.
Let me know, and I'll tell you who I called. The wheels were $740 and the shipping was $40. The centers were just like the factory, but without the "Olds" emblem in the middle. I had to have that.
Tuesday, heading for lunch, tried to start the car but it just click-click-clicked. Popped up the back seat, and looked at the battery. It was starting to leak, and, since the build date of my car was August '97, I figured 5 years was good enough. Got a battery from the local Buick dealer (my Olds dealer didn't stock it) - $129.95 and I was set. Car started and ran fine, or so I thought.
Wednesday morning, driving into work. I hear a clicking noise from under the dash. U-turn and drive to my dealer. The service advisor says my headlights were flashing when I pulled into the garage. Drives around the block with me, and says he knows it's a defective multi-function switch in the dash, causing a relay to click - will take 4 hours of labor to do the repair.
I was headed out of town on vacation Thursday, so I gave them my extended warranty info. I had them also change the oil (it was almost time again, and the oil life monitor had reset itself when I swapped the battery) and power-flush the tranny/change the filter. I paid $175 for that (and yes, this time the oil was at the full level, not 1 qt over - checked this before I left the dealership).
As an aside, the cost to the warranty company was $573 (over $350 for the switch). My $1100 extended warranty has paid out $1900 in claims since April. I'm happy with that, but not with the car. Fortunately, it's not stranded me anywhere, and I've not been inconvenienced without the car (wife is off work due to carpal-tunnel surgery on both hands).
*sigh*
--Robert
who at least found his wife's friend's lost Christmas tree pin in the back seat when he changed his battery...
--Robert
Has anybody experienced this? Any TSB's? I'll be looking that up and calling the dealer.
Taylor
http://www.cardomain.com/id/800wattaurora
My car is under the factory warranty (in service 12/21/98 with only 35k miles). If the mechanism is eating the glass, I will demand that it be fixed and the glass polished (if possible) or replaced. I really hate it. It's totally uncalled for. I'd think your warranty may cover this too.
It must be something right near the top of the door because the top of the window got it. If I find a TSB on the list, I'll go in with it. The dealer said they would have to see it - and said they never heard of that one before.
FYI
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg