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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

1235788

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    larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    What was the Surging/Bucking outcome?
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    The inner door panel just lifts out off the door.
    I did it to my 95 to check the size of the door speakers.

    The one thing the experience taught me was not to let any local yocal change my door speakers. The amount of wires on that panel was scary.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Sorry for not responding earlier, larryfl, but I was in an MS Active Directory class all last week and did not feel like touching a computer after 9+ hours in front of it all day :-)

    Regarding the surging/bucking problem - evidently I had either bad gas, a clogged injector, or both. I took the car in for the oil change on a Friday, and had last gassed up about 60 miles away from home at an Amoco station I was near (not one I go to regularly). After complaining to the dealer (who drained the oil and re-changed the filter), they ran diagnostics on it and couldn't find anything. On a lark, they put some GM InjectorGuard in. The car still surged and ran rough for a couple of days after I picked it up (most prevalent if the car (black) was left to sit in the sun), but, after putting some miles on it, and putting a couple of tanks of gas in it (letting it get down to 3-4 gallons left), it's been running fine.

    I guess it was just a coincidence and not dealer incompetence (other than the extra quart and a half of oil they put in :-). It took a day or so, but the oil pressure gauge is now working fine as well/not reading 70-80 psi all of the time.

    --Robert
    who is probably going to start doing his own oil changes anyway.
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    dslay2dslay2 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 95 and the trans will not shift past 2nd gear, It does fine as long as I stay under 40 mph, I was told it was a belt by my brother , has anyone had this problem.
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    doejodoejo Member Posts: 2
    I'm having similiar problems as the previous post. Couldn't find the final solution for each post.

    Also, I listed some differences between my '95 Aurora's problem and the two previous post. Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.

    Previous two Post:

    Post 1/Problem

    #171 of 207 Tranny by jimpp77 Jun 22, 2002 (01:42 pm)
    I have a '95 with about 64,000 miles. At about 63,000 the tranny started slipping while going from 1st to second........

    Re:/Soln

    #173 of 207 Jimpp77 Tranny by aurora5000 Jun 24, 2002 (01:04 pm)
    ... "Lubeguard" for the transmission. ...

    #175 of 207 Tranny by Henry Jun 26, 2002 (07:40 pm)
    .....a computer problem with a relay or module or something....

    Post 2/Problem
    169 of 207 SURGING by isuamy Jun 21, 2002 (01:21 pm)

    .....WHEN ACCELERATING SLOWLY MY CAR WILL SURGE. MY RPM'S FLUXUATES, BUT IT ONLY DOES THIS AFTER WARMING UP.

    Re:/Soln

    #170 of 207 ISUAMY RE. surging by mike98c Jun 21, 2002 (08:08 pm)
    Not to sound like a one topic person BUT check the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

    - * * * What's different with my car * * * - - - -

    For the past month or so, the car has felt unresponsive when accelerating.

    Yesterday, the Service Engine Soon(SES) light came on. At the same time, the car seemed to have lost all power, even though the car was running at about 3k - 4k rpm. The car, however, did make it the final 3 miles to my house.

    After letting the car sit over night, I took it out for a test drive the next day. The SES light did not come on when the car started or when I was driving at low speeds. However, when I did try to punch it and accelerate, the SES light came on, the car's RPMs went up to about 3 - 5k, the car seemed to lag for a few seconds, and then the car seemed to have slammed into gear and started to accelerate like normal.

    I've checked the transmission fluid, it might be low, but not by a lot. Don't know if the filters have been changed. Car did have 100K check up. Since the 100k, the A/C's went out and hasn't been replaced - it is the A/C's clutch.

    So, does this sound similiar to the above problems.

    Could it be:

    1) FPR.
    2) Computer relay or similiAR
    3) OR Needs Lubeguard

    THANKS
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Once again when I turn my key the car pauses for about 1 second and then starts. I had replaced the starter only to have the problem come back after a month.

    I went to the dealer and her confirmed my worst nightmare. It will not be until the car does not start at all, that they will be able to find the problem.

    I am taking a trip that requires a ferry ride. Any bets that the car won't start when it comes time to take it off the ferry???

    I figure that after getting stuck in the Holland tunnel under the Hudson River, the ferry is the next logical water crossing debacle.
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    mab4962mab4962 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 96 Aurora - is servicing the tranny (fluid & filter) a "dealer-only" job, or can the "above-average" guy get under there and do this? I had no problems changing my '95 Regency, but the V6 is nothing like this V8. Any body had any experience on this?
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Anybody else had their Classic's lower trunk piston mounting plates pull loose from the body?

    When I bought my '97 in 1999, I noticed that the left lower mounting point moved around as the trunk opened and closed. Pulling back the trunk liner revealed that the 1.5" x 3" mounting plate had pulled loose from its four spot welds (one in each corner) and had been "repaired" with four self-tapping screws -- woefully inadequate for the forces exerted on the mounting plate. I drilled out the welds, and fashioned a backing plate from 1/8" aluminum stock which I drilled and tapped for 10-32 cap screws. I then assembled this with the backing plate outside the truck, clamping the body sheet metal between it and the original mounting plate on the inside of the trunk.

    Last week the right side mounting plate pulled loose at its top two welds. I repaired this one without a backing plate, figuring that two 10-32 cap screws I added at the top would be strong enough. BTW, the welds did not fail; instead, the sheet metal tore away at the weld locations.
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    mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    This is rather common on the classics, I seem to recall that, and water in the trunk from opening the trunk when it's wet have been common complaints to the dealer. I would call a dealer and ask if there are any TSB's on the subject for resolving the problem.
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Maybe that is why they went to the cheap-o hinges and springs for 2001.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    mike98c:

    You're right, there is a TSB for the rain-water-in-the-trunk problem, which my dealer installed, and it does a fairly good job. I've never seen a TSB for the broken weld problem.
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I just got into the habit of opening the trunk slowly.
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    doejodoejo Member Posts: 2
    Previously wrote message requesting solutions for what appearred to be a slipping or surging transmission.

    More specifically, the check engine light was on. The car would not shift correctly. In particuliar, it would no shift into any gear higher than second.

    After putting the car into the shop twice, I have what hope to believe the final soluntion.

    The first time the car was in the shop it was discovered the car's computer was holding two error codes concerning the transmission. Clearing the codes allowed the transmission to shift into 3rd & 4th and drive normally.

    The error codes suggested a stuck valve or a bad solenoid. The mechanic suggested to wait and see if this was a one time thing or if the valve needed replaced. We did flush out the transmission on the off chance any debris was causing the valve to stick.

    After driving the car approx. 45 miles, the problem reoccurred. The check engine light came back on and the car could no longer drive faster than 45.

    Took back to the shop, removed the valve body and replaced the shift solenoid.

    Car apprears to be running fine. Haven't driven far,though. If something goes wrong with this fix, I'll write back.
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    musclecar97musclecar97 Member Posts: 111
    Doejo!
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    gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    is very easy to do but you will need a wide container to catch the fluid because the pan is pretty wide. You will need to have about 7 quarts of fluid to refill. There is 2 small filters once you drop the pan. Good Luck!
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    gregor1022gregor1022 Member Posts: 10
    Hi everyone,

    My sister is thinking about buying a '95 Aurora with 110,000 miles on it. I told her I'd do a little research on the internet and I know this site is a great resource - my wife and I bought a '99 Alero earlier this year after reading up on them here and have extremely pleased with it. This Aurora is being sold privately for $5,500. Now, I have always stayed away from high mileage cars (with the exception of my Miata - 94,000 miles and running strong :), but it seems to be in great condition, with only a few minor blemishes, defects.

    My questions are: Does anyone have advice on Auroras with such high mileage? Does anyone own one with this much or higher mileage and what kind of problems should she expect??

    Thanks!!
    Greg
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    $4,500 - $4,000 is a better figure. At 76K I would expect to get 5,500 for my car.
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    crumb1crumb1 Member Posts: 3
    Not sure if anyone else has had this problem. But, I was hearding a "rotational" noise in the left front at slower speeds, and then a higher "bumping" noise at highway speeds at inconsistent intervals. Well, just got it back from the shop, and it was a front wheel bearing. So, I had that, the hub assembly and ABS sensor replaced for $230, and it cured the problem. Just in case anyone else is having those symptoms. Mine is a 1997 Aurora with 52k on it.

    Have owned it since June and LOVE the car!!!

    Mike
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    800wattaurora800wattaurora Member Posts: 187
    Today after work, I went to get a quote for a custom bent dual exhaust with my supplied Corsa mufflers. On the way to the import/dyno shop, MY CAR DIED.

    LEFT ME STRANDED!!! DIC read SHUT OFF ENGINE NOW!!! So I pulled over on the shoulder of the highway, open the hood, and the accesory belt was shreaded. There was also coolant all over the back of the engine bay/ground. I'm calling the water pump the guilty colperate.

    I was PO'ed. Lock her up and start walking. Next exit had an Acura dealer where they called Enterprise for me. Now tonight I gotta get it towed to the dealer, 15mi. away.

    ERRRRRRR

    800wattAURORA
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    silotwosilotwo Member Posts: 27
    A few months ago my 95, with 68k, DIC also told me to shut off the engine, after telling me it shut off the traction control, then the A/C, then 4 cylinders. All those text messages on top of the warning bells made it hard to miss that I had a problem.

    Had it towed 60 miles, at quite some cost. Water pump drive belt went, only a $30.00 dealer repair, water pump was fine.

    Still wonder why routine service doesn't seem to include inspecting belts and hoses anymore. What was left of the belt was so obviously dry rotted I can't believe even I missed it. Of course, I stupidly thought the serpentine belt was the only drive belt.

    Lesson Learned, at a cost.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    silotwo, you bring to mind a good point - the 2 drive belts (serpentine and water pump). I had my mechanic friend replace them at 40k mi on my '98 - figured the $35 investment in belts, and the 15 minutes of his time, was well worth it in the long run (I was once stranded in northern Wisconsin at 3 a.m. because of a broken serpentine belt, so I make it a point to change it every 4 years or 50k mi, whichever comes first :-)
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I feel for you. However, I still think my story of being stranded at the bottom of the Hudson River in the Holland Tunnel trumps you guys.

    Although, I did have the advantage of hearing the "sounds of the ocean" while I waited for resque, at least you guys got a warning. I had nothing but a dead car.

    Still the reigning
    SHOP KING

    Yours truly,

    Henri
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    I guess I will be checking my belts too, to be on the safe side. I hate being stranded. Then to get the car towed.
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Is it possible to disconnect the Daytime Running Lights on a 1999 Aurora, I think D.R.Lights were introduced and made a must for all GM vehicles made in 1999. That's why you have 1995 or 1996, 97, 98 Auroras without D.R.L's. Has anyone tryed to figure out how to disarm the DRL's on the Auoras?
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I should clarify, Henry, that when I was stranded in northern Wisconsin at 3 a.m., I didn't have my Aurora, but my '91 Grand Prix. I was cruising along when all of a sudden there was thumping from under the hood, and the car just died. Pulled it off to the side of the road, popped the hood, pieces of belt everywhere.

    At least in the Holland tunnel, I presume your cell phone (if you have one) worked? At least you had traffic going through the tunnel - there was NOBODY on the road where I was, just deer. I had to climb a tree just to get reception on my brick-sized analog phone (yikes :-). The AAA operator couldn't understand why I didn't want to give my membership number out right away (because I'm too busy holding onto this tree with one hand, and the phone with the other! :-)

    So, that's why I religiously check/frequently change my car's belts. Of course, I left out the part about seeing a tornado near the gas station where my car was towed :-)

    --Robert
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    javidogg:

    Aurora DRLs started with the '96 model. I believe there is a kit available from dealers for ~$50 to disable them. I have not looked into how the kit works or if there is a reasonable alternative.
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    mab4962mab4962 Member Posts: 3
    I am in the middle of servicing the transmission on my '96 Aurora. I am trying to replace the shift solenoids as well, but cannot figure out how to get the old ones out. They are both very brittle and I am not sure what else has to come out to get these out. Any suggestions?
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    sbeaupresbeaupre Member Posts: 21
    The DRL's are easily defeatable with no cost. On the fenderwall (I beleive the driver side near the front of the car) there is the DRL "resistor". Basically a harness plugs into this resistor in series to run the lights at lower voltage for daytime. Unplug the harness and voila, no more DRL. The regular lights are on another circuit so it won't affect them or the automatic features, etc. You just lose the DRL.

    You should be aware that according to most studies they claim DRL lowers accident rates, I don't know why but they do claim this. For safety I drive w/my parking lights and fog lights on. Looks nice too.

    If you can't find the resistor to unplug (it's just a black plastic U shaped thingy), let me know or check alldata...that's where I found mine.

    --Sean
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    sbeaupre:

    Driving with parking lights on is illegal in many (most/all) states. Parking lights on means "parked" -- not moving.
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    mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    GOOD, got a set of conti contact sport tires slightly used for the front after driving back to Minnesota from Wisconsin on spare. Tires are 50 series. BAD, as I drove away from little tire shop, Traction Active, appeared in few minutes and car slows (engine) to crawl. Slow to almost complete stop, car runs normal for few minutes. Turn off traction control no problems. GOOD, someone at wifes work offering K&N filter for Aurora for $25.00.
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    fdionfdion Member Posts: 59
    I believe this is caused by your tires. If you change the tire size, you have to go to the dealer to have the new size put in with a Tech2. Else it messes up speed, abs, traction control etc. What is happening is that the computer is seeing you going the wrong speed for the number of rotation of wheels (picked up by the ABS sensor vs flywheel sensor). It then signals the traction control to kick in.

    Francois
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    mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    Fdion, I believe you're right, I thought I would put a few miles in these tires and see if it's worth it. The new Audi they came off of had 5,000 miles on it. The other version of this tire has a bad reputation for wear followed by hydroplaning, The tire is fitted to Audi, BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche. I love the steering response compared to the Michelin energys, and they don"t seem overly harsh. We'll see! Had to retype message. Server wen't down just as I hit (post).
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I was discussing the traction control issue with the dealership about 2 years ago when I first started looking at putting the y2k 17" wheels on the classic. I was concenred that the difference in size would cause the traction system to act "funky". Seems that I was right! If the wheel total size of the wheel/tire is too far from stock you will have a problem. However, the 17" wheel and 235/55 tire combination from the Y2K cars seems to be okay on the Classic.

    Henri - I have now redemed myself from the pivoting front wheels comment.
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    The reason I was asking about DRL's is because I was looking at the High Intensity Discharge kits but, I would have to some how disconnect the DRL's in order to have HID's on. I would not want to drive during the day with my DRL's on if I were to get an HID kit for regular driving lights. I guess now I know. Peace.

    http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
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    jkheadleejkheadlee Member Posts: 1
    Hello!! I'm a new member that just read all the Q and A's but did not find any thing concerning the cruise control. I have a 99 with 33,ooo miles that has a problem turning the cruise off between 30 and about 150 miles-it will not come back on until the car sits for about 2 hours. The dealer has put in a new cruise module and PCM and who knows what else. ANY IDEAS?????????????
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    wwilfertwwilfert Member Posts: 4
    JKHEADLEE, this is a long shot. If you speed sensor is faulty, it will store a code. When the ECM has a code for a bad speed sensor, it will not allow the cruise to operate. If the code is cleared, the cruise should work again. Codes generally can be cleared by disconnecting the battery. The problem with my theory is that you stated it works again after a few hours. Codes do not clear themselves, therefore the cruise should not operate until the code is cleared.
    I know this from experience. My '98 had an intermittent bad speed sensor. Speed sensor problems are not uncommon is the AURORA.
    Like I said, it's a long shot. If it is a speed sensor, repairs at a Olds dealer will run appx $130. Good luck!!
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    About those 2001/2 17's on the classic. I've had no problem. They sit about as high as the stock set-up - maybe .2 or .3 inches total.

    For reference, consider that new tires usually have 10/32 tread, and are worn when they have 2/32. So, in the course of wearing down the tires you would see 8/32 x 2 = 16/32 = .5 inch difference in height. That more of a difference than the 17's make.

    Another take - with wear, they will sit as high as the stock tires new.

    If you want the 17's maybe you can still get a good deal where I got mine. You will have to get the center caps from the dealer because they don't supply original centers. The wheels are the silver ones (probably scratched up or something so GM dumps them) that are stripped and re-chromed. They look good - no problems so far, but I haven't been through winter with them yet.

    With tax, and all + buying the centers from the dealer (and getting killed on that) it was about $900 I think.

    Let me know, and I'll tell you who I called. The wheels were $740 and the shipping was $40. The centers were just like the factory, but without the "Olds" emblem in the middle. I had to have that.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    OK, last week Monday, a couple of times when I started my '98, the "Security" light flashed and dinged a few times. I knew this was not good and had a strange sense of foreboding...

    Tuesday, heading for lunch, tried to start the car but it just click-click-clicked. Popped up the back seat, and looked at the battery. It was starting to leak, and, since the build date of my car was August '97, I figured 5 years was good enough. Got a battery from the local Buick dealer (my Olds dealer didn't stock it) - $129.95 and I was set. Car started and ran fine, or so I thought.

    Wednesday morning, driving into work. I hear a clicking noise from under the dash. U-turn and drive to my dealer. The service advisor says my headlights were flashing when I pulled into the garage. Drives around the block with me, and says he knows it's a defective multi-function switch in the dash, causing a relay to click - will take 4 hours of labor to do the repair.

    I was headed out of town on vacation Thursday, so I gave them my extended warranty info. I had them also change the oil (it was almost time again, and the oil life monitor had reset itself when I swapped the battery) and power-flush the tranny/change the filter. I paid $175 for that (and yes, this time the oil was at the full level, not 1 qt over - checked this before I left the dealership).

    As an aside, the cost to the warranty company was $573 (over $350 for the switch). My $1100 extended warranty has paid out $1900 in claims since April. I'm happy with that, but not with the car. Fortunately, it's not stranded me anywhere, and I've not been inconvenienced without the car (wife is off work due to carpal-tunnel surgery on both hands).

    *sigh*

    --Robert
    who at least found his wife's friend's lost Christmas tree pin in the back seat when he changed his battery...
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I take your story and raise you one Holland Tunnel.
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    gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    Has anyone tried to put on a speed sensor on the car? I need one for the front.
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    mab4962mab4962 Member Posts: 3
    Where can I obtain a service manual with diagrams on the transmission for my '96? I need to replace the shift solenoids - have the old ones out, need to know how to get new ones in. Any help is appreciated.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Look on eBay for the manuals for your year Aurora. The various years are frequently available and sell for between $40 and $100...

    --Robert
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    For some reason, I've just got a nice scratch on both front windows. The scratches are on the INSIDE. That is weird. It's clearly related to the window motion (up-down). Something inside is rubbing on the glass and it must be nasty. I rolled the windows down and cleaned out the rubber packing/gaskets or whatever to make sure nothing stuck in there. Maybe it's something in the door that has gone a little wrong. I don't hear any grinding or scratching.

    Has anybody experienced this? Any TSB's? I'll be looking that up and calling the dealer.
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    800wattaurora800wattaurora Member Posts: 187
    Garnes-ME TOO BUDDY!!! My front window are tinted, so that extra thickness is getting scratched away in 1 place on both front windows. About 5-6in from the back, definetly Up-Down motion. I've already had my front tints replace once, because the scratch went all the way thru to the glass. My scratch isn't hairline, it's 2-3 mm thick, and at the top its, round, so it's a post rubbing the glass. Looks like it went thru again, INTO THE GLASS. Getting time to re-tint again. Sigh, maybe I'll take off the door panel and look around, get out the small file and sand paper, then I'll re-tint the fronts for the LAST TIME. I did get the re-tint for free, though. They liked my ride so no charge, Ziebart Baby.


    Taylor

    http://www.cardomain.com/id/800wattaurora

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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Taylor - what you described - with the little circle and all (and about 6 inches from the back) is EXACTLY what I have on the driver side!!!!!!!!! The passenger front just has a 4 inch long single scratch in the same location - no circle marking though. It's really weird that both happened at the same time.

    My car is under the factory warranty (in service 12/21/98 with only 35k miles). If the mechanism is eating the glass, I will demand that it be fixed and the glass polished (if possible) or replaced. I really hate it. It's totally uncalled for. I'd think your warranty may cover this too.

    It must be something right near the top of the door because the top of the window got it. If I find a TSB on the list, I'll go in with it. The dealer said they would have to see it - and said they never heard of that one before.
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    aurora5000aurora5000 Member Posts: 168
    I remember you saying you had problems with honking the horn and getting the air bag warning signal and DIC indicator. It was after honking my horn on vacation at another vehicle. I sat on it hard. It cleared itself after sitting a few minutes turned off and has not come back.

    FYI
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    That's exactly what happens to mine. It is fine the next time you restart the car. I've never had a problem except those two times I've really laid on the horn. And that's exactly what happens, the little red airbag light comes on and the DIC displays an airbag message.
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Hey dudes, I also have the same problem with a scratch on my passenger window. The scratch is about as thick as one or two human hairs. I don't have the slightest idea how that came about. Peace.

    http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    It's something in the power window mechanism that has come loose or misaligned and is scratching the glass as it travels up and down. There doesn't seem to be a TSB for this, but it clearly happens. Maybe I'm just really lucky this has occurred within factory warranty. As far as I'm concerned, GM is paying to fix this - and the glass.
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    rhale2rhale2 Member Posts: 8
    Has anyone had the rear main replaced on their Aurora? My 95 has an annoying leak, that makes it impossible to park in my driveway or garage. I was just wondering if it is worth spending the estimated $600 to have it done.
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