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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

13468988

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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Since replacing the fuel-pressure regulator on my '97, it has run flawlessly for about 5000 miles -- until 4 days ago. The symptoms are: after driving at steady speed for awhile, depressing the pedal results in a light pop (fuel igniting in the exhaust system?) and what feels like ignition misfiring. No check engine light. Sometimes it runs fine. My guess is bad plugs and/or plug wires; they are original with 83000 miles on them. Any other suggestions?
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    mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    with 83,000 miles on the wires you can probably count on them being shot. At around 75,000 3 of the eight wires were at too high a resistance on my set and one was open completely (DEAD)! And this was without being mishandled. Carbon core wires are good for suppressing interference but the carbon core burns away eventually.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    mike98c: thanks for your input

    Does anyone have experience with Magnecor wires?
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    w001jwgw001jwg Member Posts: 2
    every once in a while the lights start flashing on and off and the chime goes off on my 97 aurora.
    i have looked under the dash and i can hear the lamp control relay cycling. if i turn the lights on manually the flashing stops. has anyone experienced any problems with the lamp control module or experienced this problem. thanks
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I just had the same problem about three weeks back. Eventually the battery died, and the constant clicking of the relay in the dash had me concerned enough to go to the dealer. They replaced a body control module - a 4 hr. job according to the service tech. It cost my warranty company around $575.

    Sounds like another item for the "Aurora common failure" list...

    --Robert
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    mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    If your LUCKY, spraying a contact (electrical) penetrant into the relay module will drive out the moisture and clean up the contacts. (does it happen in high humidity?) You can pull a silver relay under the seat wich will disable the head lights and another fuse which disables the side marker lights and the tail lights to get you through the night but I don't remember which ones they are anymore. I do know they're in the fuse box under the back seat closest to the passenger side.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    w001jwg:

    Similar thing happened to my '97 two years ago. It was intermittent; fortunately I was able to demonstrate the problem to my dealer with about 300 miles left on the original factory warranty. The paperwork said they replaced the headlight switch -- part was $400+.

    I did not notice a correlation with high humidity, but it was definitely correlated to high temperature -- 85+ degrees. The problem occurred a couple of times September 1999, then didn't happen again until the weather got hot in 2000.

    I found the same circuit breaker and fuse that mike98c reported. I had to pull them when I parked to ensure I had battery power to start the car later. I marked them with pieces of tape. I can pull the seat and post the locations. Let me know if you need to know.

    I also had the clicking under the dash, but that seems to have been a result of the problem -- not the cause.
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    mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    You're right! In my case the temp and the humidity both had to be high for the problem to occur. When the humidity dropped the problem disappeared temporarily. As soon as the humidity went up problem reappeared then the temp. dropped and problem disappeared. Of course this was the day I took the car in to be diagnosed.
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    w001jwgw001jwg Member Posts: 2
    spoke to an olds dealer regarding the flashing lights and cycling relay. dealer says this is a very common prob. he repairs theses weekly and has parts on hand. says its the multifunction switch in steering column. 2.5 hours labor and $385.00 for the part. $575.00.
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    jav3jav3 Member Posts: 1
    As new member, it is good to hear others with similar experiences.....even if mostly bad! My 97 has had many of the earlier posts...plug wires at 80K, O2 sensors, scratches on driver and passenger windows (felt pads in door need replacement). Nothing in the posts though on my problem with fuel gauge. When it gets about 1/2 tank, starts to INCREASE reading and eventually shows full again (wish it were so!). Affects trip computer also with increased range numbers. Had a local repair guy say it could be sensor (big repair) or it could be the fuel pump heating up as fuel level goes down (submersed pump). Anybody have similar problem?

    Also, the keyless entry is very flaky. Even with new battery, it works when it wants to. About 1/3 of time. It will resync sometimes but not always. Is there something in the receiver that may be going bad?
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    jav3:

    My '97 has the same (or similar) problem. At ~1/2 tank the gauge will go from full to empty and back; this repeats many times. The "low fuel" indicator will chime and display in the DIC. There have been some posts on this. The consensus is that the problem is the sender in the tank.

    I have not replaced mine yet. I have relied on the "fuel used " function of the DIC to keep me out of trouble; don't go past 16 gallons. There is an AC-Delco fuel sendor kit for about $100.
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    leftyga1leftyga1 Member Posts: 10
    The fix may not be easy. The dealership had my 97 Aurora door panel off anyway and replaced a window guide that has a black, fibrous pad mounted on a metal piece that seemed to be a bear to remove. The plastic center on that pad seemed to be the culprit: when the fibrous/felt wears down, the plastic scratches the glass. The next stop is a window tinting or glass place and see what they can do to buff out the scratches. There has got to be a better fix...
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Yes it apparently is that pad you are talking about, but it apparently was allowing the glass to rub up against something else. There are even round circular scratches that trail up and down. I'm getting new window glass too. It's all covered under the factory warranty.

    I've heard glass polishing doesn't work.
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    cwp2cwp2 Member Posts: 19
    Well, my '95s SES light came on today. I have been smelling gas fumes in the car lately and several days ago the gas pedal was pulsating after the car was turned off. I have 114k on the car, but otherwise it runs great. Can I check this myself or do I leave it to the dealer? Anyone know how to read the diagnostic codes?
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    gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    Your 95 is OBD1 so when you scan it the code number and explanation should show on scanner.

    greg
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    cwp2cwp2 Member Posts: 19
    Have not scanned for codes, yet. Got a key from Autozone, but it takes the scanner instead. But, found the fuel line connection near the manifold cover to be wet with gas. Could this be the reason for the SES light?
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Over the weekend I replaced all spark plugs and wires on my '97 at 83 000 miles. As expected, the engine miss I was experiencing went away. I decided to go with OEM AC-Delco wires ($101 for set) and 41-950 plugs ($5.40 each). There was a large tear in the coil boot for cylinder #8.

    With the ignition module and coils removed, it is a fairly easy job. Access to the front two bolts holding the ignition module is quite good. But to remove the two rear bolts holding the ignition module, the left and right coils need to be removed. Of the four vehicles with transverse V engines on which I have replaced spark plugs, my Aurora is the easiest. The worst has been my 1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3 V-6; next 1986 Toro 3.8 V-6; then 1986 Fiero 2.8 V-6.

    A couple of observations: the plug I removed from cylinder #3 was dripping oil from the threads. This must be related to my high oil consumption, but I don't understand why there was so much oil on the threads. The parts of the plug in the combustion chamber were oil-free. The four wires for the front cylinders were separated by a wire loom behind the ignition module. Within a 1/2 inch they were taped togther side-by-side for routing around and to the front of the ignition module on their way to the front of the engine. Everything I have always read about routing plug wires is not to run them parallel and close together. I revised the wire dress by using that split plastic wire loom for each plug wire individually.

    Finally, I gapped the plugs at 0.050" going by the factory service manual. After completing the job, I looked at the tuneup label on the radiator cover, which specifies 0.060". I think the tuneup label is more likely to be accurate, so I have regapped the front plugs already. I will probably regap the rear ones this weekend. Does anyone have insight into this discrepancy on plug gap?
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    but if there is, the label in the engine compartment is the most accurate. Sometimes a mid-production change might be made, or a last-minute one. The label on your radiator is what you should go by. It has the highest priority.
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    hammackhammack Member Posts: 2
    Dealer has just informed me that my 1995 Aurora oil leak is from the crankcase block seal, and will require engine removal and $2200 to fix. He said this was a common problem with earlier models. Retail value of this car is only about $5000, without the oil leak. I need an affordable fix - can anyone make any suggestions?? This leak leaves a 3" puddle on the garage floor with each park.

    I would like to remark that this is by far a great car to drive, but not to own. This car has 78,000 hiway miles on it, and almost everthing has gone wrong and been replaced,.. window seals, door locks, radio/cd, AC, water pump, alternator, brakes, ECT? sensor, spark plug wires, exhaust bolts, and it goes on, almost monthy.

    Hammack
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    stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    Same thing happened to me this summer. The only lights that flashed were my parking lights and interior, no headlights. If you are the same way, you can get by with just pulling the fuses in the fuse box by the driver's left leg. It should be the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd right in a row down the right side of the box. It'll still click, but no lights come on. My battery never ran out that way, and you don't have to get under the seat...which is good.
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    bullsenderbullsender Member Posts: 5
    I had the flashing light problem 4 months ago and it is due to excessive grease in the rotating switch on left side of steering column...you can remove the column covers (lower knee cover must be removed too) by taking out about 7 bolts from bottom of column near steering wheel(special bolt...but I think I used a 5/16 nut driver)and you will see the switch and gold contacts as you turn the headlight switch. Soak it good several
    times with electrical contact cleaner as you turn it bach and forth...problem solved...not a real difficult job and sure beats $600.
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    I just noticed the other day that my On & Off knob for my AC/Heater came loose. It still works you can turn it and adjust to were you want the air, it's just all loose. I called the Olds Dealer to make an appointment for Thursday 10.17.02. Let's see if it's also covered under my warranty. I also added that sometimes it won't turn on, so they hopefully replace the whole thing with a new one. I'll let you all know the outcome of this. Peace.

    http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Got back from the Olds Dealer today after like 3 hours, they looked at my problem with the AC/Heater knob and supposely could not find anything wrong. I also told them about the 6" scratch on my passenger window, some what deep too. The Olds Dealer said they had to "Special Order" a whole new window, they said there gonna call me, when they receive the new part. Next week when I go back to the dealer, I'll mention it to them again about the AC control button. Peace.


    http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

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    larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    I don't know what it is about these boards, but it sometimes seems when something is mentioned on here, BINGO - my '95 want's to join in the fun!!

    After you posted about your AC/Heater knob - now mine decides to be loose. I guess like yours, it works fine but will "wobble" if I push on it anywhere but dead center. The temp knob doesn't do that - it stays pretty solid. I assume it's commig loose from the switch and it's just a matter of tightening a screw or nut - once you can get to it. I'm interested to see what your fix will ultimately be.

    Larry
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Beware. I had both front windows replaced. Apparently the passenger fronts are mispackaged. It took forever to get one. The dealer said perhaps 1500 front passenger windows are mismarked. Make sure it is the correct window before arranging to leave your car with them.

    They also have to replace the rubber/felt strip that guides the window. That is the cause of the problem as it lets the window go where it shouldn't and it get's scratched inside the door.
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    In Reply To:


    I don't know what it is about these boards, but it sometimes seems when something is mentioned on here, BINGO - my '95 want's to join in the fun!!


    After you posted about your AC/Heater knob - now mine decides to be loose. I guess like yours, it works fine but will "wobble" if I push on it anywhere but dead center. The temp knob doesn't do that - it stays pretty solid. I assume it's commig loose from the switch and it's just a matter of tightening a screw or nut - once you can get to it. I'm interested to see what your fix will ultimately be.


    Larry


    _______________________________________________________


    I'm still trying to explain the problem to the Olds Dealer about my knob being all loose, so next time I go back I'll show it to them. I really don't know were the problem could be at.


    _______________________________________________________


    In Reply To:


    Beware. I had both front windows replaced. Apparently the passenger fronts are mispackaged. It took forever to get one. The dealer said perhaps 1500 front passenger windows are mismarked. Make sure it is the correct window before arranging to leave your car with them.


    They also have to replace the rubber/felt strip that guides the window. That is the cause of the problem as it lets the window go where it shouldn't and it get's scratched inside the door.


    _______________________________________________________


    The Dealer along with a new window they also ordered two other parts, let me look at my "Special Order" form, ah yeah they ordered a glass and insulator, whatever that means. If any here has access to the GM Parts website, these are the parts numbers, and ah yeah let me know:


    Quan. Part No. Description

    01 25639778 R/FT Dr. Window

    01 16632073 R/FT Dr. Stab Felt

    01 10054691 R/FT Dr. Stab.


    I will let you all know how everything turns out. Peace.


    http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Javi - I'm sure they ordered the right part. It just that you might get the box with the right number on the outside and the wrong window on the inside.
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Just a tip. If you have this done, make them remount the wheel on all 4 tires so that the wheel/tire is at its optimum position. Usually they don't break the tire down unless it's out of "spec" which is 15 lbs of force. My opinion, "spec" is a one size fits all. The Aurora seems to be sensitive.

    I had my tires rotated and a little bit of vibration came back. So I had them improve on the force balance job.

    The machine tells you the minimum (best possible condition) upward "off" force possible and where to move the tire to achieve that. If it's in within "spec" they don't do anything and just add the weights for a dynamic balance. For a lot of cars, maybe you can't feel the difference between say a 4 and a 14 (both within spec), but I think it may make a difference on the Aurora if you want a perfect ride.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    For several months my '97 suffered intermittent illumination of the analog gauges and digital displays (DIC, HVAC, and radio). The culprit was the interior lights control wheel to the left of the steering column. The panel that holds this control and the twilight sentinel pulls straight out toward the back of the car. But it is a hard pull. I went to an Olds dealer (not easy to find these days) and talked with a mechanic who showed me how to pull it off with bare hands. It takes a lot of force. I had been afraid I would break some of those plastic fasteners.

    Anyway, I cleaned the electrical contacts on the wheel with contact cleaner (remember mechanical TV tuners?) and a q-tip. The illumination works like new again.
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    schilling34schilling34 Member Posts: 3
    We've noticed that our 1996 takes FOREVER to get started once the outside temp drops to 30 degrees or below. Anyone else have this problem or some advice????
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    In Reply To:_________________________________________________________________


    Javi - I'm sure they ordered the right part. It just that you might get the box with the right number on the outside and the wrong window on the inside.


    _______________________________________________________________________


    Man, today I went to the Olds Dealer and you were right "garnes", they order the right part but for some reason they got the wrong window, now I will have to go back next week so by then they will have the right part and they also order the knob for my AC/HEAT control.


    So by next week I should be all set up, I think everything should be covered under my warranty.


    I'll keep you all posted on this. Peace.


    http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

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    nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    You all remember the "Surging" topic that was so popular about a year ago?
    Well, I may have another "fix" for it. My 95 Classic had been surging ever since I bought it last year with about 60K miles on it. The dealer changed plugs/wires and checked the computer and still couldn't figure it out. Finally, based on a hunch, I had my regular mechanic (cheaper than the dealer!) change the tranny filter and fluid. Viola!
    Within a week, the problem was gone. (It apparently takes a little driving because you can't remove ALL the tranny fluid when you drop the pan to replace the filter. So you are supposed to put in a "reconditioner" which rebuilds the remaining fluid and protects it and the new fluid.)

    On a sadder note, my "Traction Off" light has been coming on pretty constantly and according to the dealer it's a problem with the part of the ABS system and will cost $900 to fix. Oh well. The ABS does still work, so I guess I have to go back to modulating tire spin myself....
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    MHO - traction control on a front wheel drive is not very important. Take the dash apart (It's a little tricky) and kill the light.
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    hardknockhardknock Member Posts: 3
    Symtoms:
    Ø Traction control kicks in
    Ø Temperture gage begins rising
    Ø Warning ding, ding, ding begins
    Ø Display (Driver Information Center) shows one of two warnings (“Engine Hot … A/C Off”) or (“Hot … Stop Engine”)
    Ø Engine cylinders are shut down, causing reduced power
    Ø Heat indicator will peg, until traction decides to correct itself, cylinders kickback in, and heat indicator begins to reside.

    This problem has persisted for the past 45,000 miles. It comes and goes. Does not show up on diagnostics. It can begin first thing in morning, within minutes of starting up. The traction control has a mind of its on, and doesn’t care if it is on or off. Car is kept in garage. It has been to the shop many times, and heat sensors, as well as other corrections have been made. Obviously, the real problem has not been resolved. Problem may reoccur within hours, days, or months. Depends on when it chooses to be bit---. When it is bad, it can really be bad. But, when it is good, it can be great.

    Usually, I have been able to assist correction by turning traction control on and off, multiple times. I realize this had no effect, but made me feel good. At the same time, I might be pressing the DIC off or reset button, or RCL button. Last night was the worst, pushed out the Traction Control Button, and had the car towed home as I had no power in the mountains.

    You might ask why did I keep driving it. It was never actually overheating!! If you stopped and went under the hood, put your hand on the motor, hold the hoses to the overflow reservoir, they would be, maybe warm, Not Hot!! This is the reason I feel it is computer related. Can’t imagine that the ABS overheating would affect the temperature gage as well as Transaction Control. Who knows the answer???

    How sold on this car am I. Read about it two year before it was actually available. Called Oldsmobile then to see when it would be available. Put my money down for first right of refusal for first car into the state. Drove it, and there was no turning back. That was in July of 94. Car is in perfect condition, well cared for, and babied. Just need to have reasonable confidence this problem can be resolved. Obviously, Oldsmobile and dealers are neither competent nor caring!! This is my last GM product, and I have owned 3 vets, 2 Eldorado’s, a Suburban, and Skylark and Old’s 88. Most fun car was a 53 Buick that had 300,000, and still ran strong. GM needs to start caring again.

    Need advise and solution!!
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    carnut444carnut444 Member Posts: 27
    If you live near the Detroit area I could recommend a very competent dealer. I'm on my second Aurora Classic, have had excellent service.
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    pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    YES! I hope that will do it for me. Just recently I have been wondering if the trans/torque converter might be suspect. Just checked the fluid (73,000) which is now starting to change color and smell a little--seems to have started to slip just a little between shifts sometimes, too.
    When I bought the car 2 years ago, the selling dealer does a Prolong deal on the engine AND trans. Always worried that maybe it was that Prolong doing funny things in there. Plus, the trans fluid seemed too high so I siphened some out (was bubbling and 'pulsing' and was all the way up to the cap almost!).
    Hope this works as I have already done: (all Delco products) plugs and wires, rotated a new coil around to each pair of cyl.s to see if it improved (no), EGR, fuel filter, cleaned TB and top engine cleaner, FPregulator. Only unplugging the EGR will diminished it. If the trans service doesn't do it, then I will try to remove the EGR and decarbon the chambers below it. Dealers (Caddy/Olds) like to say they all do that (especially the early Northstars) and to tell you the truth, my mom's 99 DeVille Concours (300hp) actually does it, too, but VERY,very slightly and I am the only one who notices it.?
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    autobahn95autobahn95 Member Posts: 62
    Hardknock --
    after reading your posting one idea came to mind about your traction going haywire on you. at the shop, did they change either of the front wheel bearing/speed sensor assemblies???

    The reason i ask is because mine went crazy on my 95 when i replaced only one wheel bearing unit, forcing me to replace the other one to get the same electrical reading from both wheels. It is very important that they both be changed at the same time.

    just a thought.
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    hardknockhardknock Member Posts: 3
    To Carnut444: Detroit is out. A bit to far. Located in the sticks of Virginia. Don't think much of current dealership. Thanks

    To Autobahn95: Wheel-bearing was recently changed in one of our vehicles. Not certain if it was the Aurora. Will check with my mechanic on Monday.

    While the problem has now come to a head. It has persisted for years, at least the last 45,000 miles. Now that I have destroyed my transaction control butten, it is unmanageable. Must be fixed.

    The search will center around the ABS and traction control, and will probably replace the master computer board for good measure.

    Please keep the advise coming.

    Thanks,
    hardknock
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    How "sticks" VA? There is a Cadillac dealership in Tysons Corner (Fairfax county) that seems excellent. I haven't been there for service yet, but the dealership seems really good. It's Al Moore Cadillac (and Hummer now). If you aren't too far away, it might be worth it to check it out. My Olds dealer in Leesburg is nothing special. They haven't angered me, but they haven't really impressed me either.
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    sinatra2sinatra2 Member Posts: 65
    does anyone have a use for a set. i know where a set could be acquired for about $75.00US.
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    sinatra2sinatra2 Member Posts: 65
    I have never heard of them changing both front speed sensors as pairs. they do work independently plus the fact they are a part of the front wheel bearing assembly. If a speed sensor has gone haywire it will show up through the diagnostic outlet informing you of which one has gone. Usually the anti lock lite will stay on as well if a speed sensor is faulty. Dealers play tricks................I stay away.....been burnt before..never again.
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good afternoon folks,


    I am new to this board and recently purchased (well traded for) a 96 Aurora. I hear this is the place to discuss how to best care for these cars. First off, you can check out pictures here:

    http://maytag87.dyndns.org:8081/rob/96aurora/


    The car I traded for the Aurora was a splendid 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham:

    http://maytag87.dyndns.org:8081/rob/88cscb2/


    The car runs and drives excellent, straight, no vibration at upper range highway speeds, with all the comfort and luxary one can handle. It really seems like an excellent car and one I can see getting attached to.


    However there are those repair bills that I keep hearing about. Just from reading a little of this site I can already see I have some common problems:

    1) The gear shift indicator does not illuminate the red needle at night. Probably a new bulb under the console top plate?

    2) The Service Engine Soon light sometimes lights after starting. And sometimes it doesnt. When it remains on after starting, one can hear the ding ding, probably setting a code? Goodness knows what sensor is getting tripped. I put a new tank of super in after riding the old gas out and the light has not come on since. Knock on woodgrain hopefully that wont come back.

    3) Sometimes after startup, the traction control off light AND the ABS light stays lit and then you get the ding ding. The lights stay on while the car is running. Restart the car, and maybe they are out, maybe not. Another intermittant problem. I read on this board that the estimated repair on that one is $900. Wow! FWIW, the owners manual seems to indicate a failrue in a brake part related to ABS... When the lights are not lit, the traction control button on the consoel does turn traction control on and off based on the lights I see on the dash. Yay!


    I will have to see if I can play CDs. Probably not huh?


    Also, while I am changing that bulb for the gear indicator needle light, here is another one. As you can see by the interior pictures, the previous owner has the gear shift indicator installed backwards... hmmm... Ok so I pull the pin with reverse the handle. But I find that the wires to the power/normal switch that go into the shifter black plastic track are loose and not connected to anything. The wire ends are bare and probably were pooly connected, instead of being soldered. My goal is to get the top plate off of the console and reattach the wires and see what happens.


    So how can I get the console top plate off to connect the wires? And is the gear indicator light just a bulb I will find under there to replace?


    Thanks!

    Rob

    www.thecutlass.com

    www.allolds.com

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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    maytag87:

    Welcome to the wonderful (and sometimes scary) world of classic Auroras. I cannot access your pictures link. There are several posts (393-399 in Accesories & Modifications, and some earlier ones that I cannot find) that address the shifter lamp problem. Be aware that the problem is most likely broken wiring instead of a simple burned out bulb. If you do have broken wires, don't just try to reconnect them. Instead, replace with flexible test leads (Radio Shack). The power switch and wiring was a challenge for me to reassemble. That may be why yours is disconnected since it sounds like the previous owner was in there.

    Good luck!
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for the advice! Broken wiring?? Wow!! That is a hack. I did take out the bulb and it looks like the filiment is broken but could I really be that lucky? I'll when I get a new bulb tomorrow.

    And yes someone else has been in there, I also found that the power/normal switch on the shifter handle had the wires not connected! It appears that someone cut the black and blue wires to the shifter handle switch in the console. So I figured out how to take apart the console, found the disconnected ends and soldered them back together. Got stuff back together and took her for a drive. I LOVE the shift at higher speed! You can feel the difference. My buddy who I got the car from said that it never worked from when he got the car and he never went into the console, someone was in there before him. Go figure.

    For the link to my Aurora, put the below text on one line in your browser:

    http://maytag87.dyndns.org:8081/rob/96aurora/

    Only part of the line will appear as a link in the post so clicking on the half-link wont work. You will need to put the entire line above into your browser. I got a shot of the RPO sticker and I am looking forward to breaking it down. The sticker is pictured on the site so feel free to have a look!

    Anyway the only casualty during the repair was I drained my battery listening to the radio for 2 hours. Doh!! Had to jump start with the charger, and once I got it started, of course the oil change now notice came on. Had to reset it again to fix it! Guess the battery got real low there...

    Have a nice evening!
    Rob
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    for Maytag's car that you can just click on. Why in the world would someone turn the shifter handle around like that? The car looks great!
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for making site easily clickable. I cannot imagine why they would install the shifter handle backwards!! But it is on correctly now. Even got my garage doors programmed into the universal transmitters. Nice!

    Being used to working on the 68-72 and 78-88 RWD Oldsmobile Cutlass genra, I found the Aurora light years ahead. I could not believe how cool it was to take off the access panel on the console side, and to remove the console top plate to get access to all the stuff down there. The only thing I can compare it to is Star Trek Next Generation or Voyager, they start pulling off panels of the ship and its lit up in there and its nice and finished and you can access
    stuff. This car has carpet like surface on the inside of the console and was pretty well lit up under there too (had the ignition on at the time, I know, not recommended). This car was definitely ahead of its time, and my perception is thats why stuff on this car just doesnt work well yet! Must say I really loved working on it, and I guess thats a good thing...

    Rob
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good afternoon folks,

    Is the keyless entry remote on a 96 Aurora the same as the 2002 keyless entry remote? I only have one keyless entry remote and I would like to add a second, wondering if a 2002 remote will work.

    Thanks!
    Rob
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    leftyga1leftyga1 Member Posts: 10
    I was one who asked about the vibration maybe two months ago. The problem was not a force balance issues, but something much simpler: out of balance rims and worn Goodyear Integritys. Now I have some Bridgestone Turanza LSHs and love them, the ride and the handling.
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Yesterday I finally got my Aurora fixed.

    The knob that came loose, replaced.

    The passenger front window that had a 10 inch inside scratch, replaced.

    Man, you have to love that GM Warranty.

    I had ran out of time to do an oil change there, so I took it somewhere else to Grossinger Cadillac GM and man, they did a wonderful job, they even washed my car for doing an oil-change with them.

    Peace.
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    ottoracefanottoracefan Member Posts: 13
    Three problems with my '95 all showed up within a few days but I don't think they're related.

    Low Coolant Level alarm on the DIC, but I've checked/added fluid and it's okay. No visible signs of leakage and coolant temp runs the same (~200 degrees) as always.

    Low Washer Fluid Level alarm on the DIC. When I added fluid it leaked out - - is there a common failure point? I'll be taking the reservoir system apart to track down the leak.

    Slight miss, especially on cold startup and light acceleration. I bought the car with 94k and it has 110k now, I'm not sure when/if the spark plugs & wires were replaced - - so I'm thinking that's where I'll start.

    Any input will be appreciated, thanks!
    Dale
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