By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Does anyone have experience with Magnecor wires?
i have looked under the dash and i can hear the lamp control relay cycling. if i turn the lights on manually the flashing stops. has anyone experienced any problems with the lamp control module or experienced this problem. thanks
Sounds like another item for the "Aurora common failure" list...
--Robert
Similar thing happened to my '97 two years ago. It was intermittent; fortunately I was able to demonstrate the problem to my dealer with about 300 miles left on the original factory warranty. The paperwork said they replaced the headlight switch -- part was $400+.
I did not notice a correlation with high humidity, but it was definitely correlated to high temperature -- 85+ degrees. The problem occurred a couple of times September 1999, then didn't happen again until the weather got hot in 2000.
I found the same circuit breaker and fuse that mike98c reported. I had to pull them when I parked to ensure I had battery power to start the car later. I marked them with pieces of tape. I can pull the seat and post the locations. Let me know if you need to know.
I also had the clicking under the dash, but that seems to have been a result of the problem -- not the cause.
Also, the keyless entry is very flaky. Even with new battery, it works when it wants to. About 1/3 of time. It will resync sometimes but not always. Is there something in the receiver that may be going bad?
My '97 has the same (or similar) problem. At ~1/2 tank the gauge will go from full to empty and back; this repeats many times. The "low fuel" indicator will chime and display in the DIC. There have been some posts on this. The consensus is that the problem is the sender in the tank.
I have not replaced mine yet. I have relied on the "fuel used " function of the DIC to keep me out of trouble; don't go past 16 gallons. There is an AC-Delco fuel sendor kit for about $100.
I've heard glass polishing doesn't work.
greg
With the ignition module and coils removed, it is a fairly easy job. Access to the front two bolts holding the ignition module is quite good. But to remove the two rear bolts holding the ignition module, the left and right coils need to be removed. Of the four vehicles with transverse V engines on which I have replaced spark plugs, my Aurora is the easiest. The worst has been my 1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3 V-6; next 1986 Toro 3.8 V-6; then 1986 Fiero 2.8 V-6.
A couple of observations: the plug I removed from cylinder #3 was dripping oil from the threads. This must be related to my high oil consumption, but I don't understand why there was so much oil on the threads. The parts of the plug in the combustion chamber were oil-free. The four wires for the front cylinders were separated by a wire loom behind the ignition module. Within a 1/2 inch they were taped togther side-by-side for routing around and to the front of the ignition module on their way to the front of the engine. Everything I have always read about routing plug wires is not to run them parallel and close together. I revised the wire dress by using that split plastic wire loom for each plug wire individually.
Finally, I gapped the plugs at 0.050" going by the factory service manual. After completing the job, I looked at the tuneup label on the radiator cover, which specifies 0.060". I think the tuneup label is more likely to be accurate, so I have regapped the front plugs already. I will probably regap the rear ones this weekend. Does anyone have insight into this discrepancy on plug gap?
I would like to remark that this is by far a great car to drive, but not to own. This car has 78,000 hiway miles on it, and almost everthing has gone wrong and been replaced,.. window seals, door locks, radio/cd, AC, water pump, alternator, brakes, ECT? sensor, spark plug wires, exhaust bolts, and it goes on, almost monthy.
Hammack
times with electrical contact cleaner as you turn it bach and forth...problem solved...not a real difficult job and sure beats $600.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
After you posted about your AC/Heater knob - now mine decides to be loose. I guess like yours, it works fine but will "wobble" if I push on it anywhere but dead center. The temp knob doesn't do that - it stays pretty solid. I assume it's commig loose from the switch and it's just a matter of tightening a screw or nut - once you can get to it. I'm interested to see what your fix will ultimately be.
Larry
They also have to replace the rubber/felt strip that guides the window. That is the cause of the problem as it lets the window go where it shouldn't and it get's scratched inside the door.
I don't know what it is about these boards, but it sometimes seems when something is mentioned on here, BINGO - my '95 want's to join in the fun!!
After you posted about your AC/Heater knob - now mine decides to be loose. I guess like yours, it works fine but will "wobble" if I push on it anywhere but dead center. The temp knob doesn't do that - it stays pretty solid. I assume it's commig loose from the switch and it's just a matter of tightening a screw or nut - once you can get to it. I'm interested to see what your fix will ultimately be.
Larry
_______________________________________________________
I'm still trying to explain the problem to the Olds Dealer about my knob being all loose, so next time I go back I'll show it to them. I really don't know were the problem could be at.
_______________________________________________________
In Reply To:
Beware. I had both front windows replaced. Apparently the passenger fronts are mispackaged. It took forever to get one. The dealer said perhaps 1500 front passenger windows are mismarked. Make sure it is the correct window before arranging to leave your car with them.
They also have to replace the rubber/felt strip that guides the window. That is the cause of the problem as it lets the window go where it shouldn't and it get's scratched inside the door.
_______________________________________________________
The Dealer along with a new window they also ordered two other parts, let me look at my "Special Order" form, ah yeah they ordered a glass and insulator, whatever that means. If any here has access to the GM Parts website, these are the parts numbers, and ah yeah let me know:
Quan. Part No. Description
01 25639778 R/FT Dr. Window
01 16632073 R/FT Dr. Stab Felt
01 10054691 R/FT Dr. Stab.
I will let you all know how everything turns out. Peace.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
I had my tires rotated and a little bit of vibration came back. So I had them improve on the force balance job.
The machine tells you the minimum (best possible condition) upward "off" force possible and where to move the tire to achieve that. If it's in within "spec" they don't do anything and just add the weights for a dynamic balance. For a lot of cars, maybe you can't feel the difference between say a 4 and a 14 (both within spec), but I think it may make a difference on the Aurora if you want a perfect ride.
Anyway, I cleaned the electrical contacts on the wheel with contact cleaner (remember mechanical TV tuners?) and a q-tip. The illumination works like new again.
Javi - I'm sure they ordered the right part. It just that you might get the box with the right number on the outside and the wrong window on the inside.
_______________________________________________________________________
Man, today I went to the Olds Dealer and you were right "garnes", they order the right part but for some reason they got the wrong window, now I will have to go back next week so by then they will have the right part and they also order the knob for my AC/HEAT control.
So by next week I should be all set up, I think everything should be covered under my warranty.
I'll keep you all posted on this. Peace.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Well, I may have another "fix" for it. My 95 Classic had been surging ever since I bought it last year with about 60K miles on it. The dealer changed plugs/wires and checked the computer and still couldn't figure it out. Finally, based on a hunch, I had my regular mechanic (cheaper than the dealer!) change the tranny filter and fluid. Viola!
Within a week, the problem was gone. (It apparently takes a little driving because you can't remove ALL the tranny fluid when you drop the pan to replace the filter. So you are supposed to put in a "reconditioner" which rebuilds the remaining fluid and protects it and the new fluid.)
On a sadder note, my "Traction Off" light has been coming on pretty constantly and according to the dealer it's a problem with the part of the ABS system and will cost $900 to fix. Oh well. The ABS does still work, so I guess I have to go back to modulating tire spin myself....
Ø Traction control kicks in
Ø Temperture gage begins rising
Ø Warning ding, ding, ding begins
Ø Display (Driver Information Center) shows one of two warnings (“Engine Hot … A/C Off”) or (“Hot … Stop Engine”)
Ø Engine cylinders are shut down, causing reduced power
Ø Heat indicator will peg, until traction decides to correct itself, cylinders kickback in, and heat indicator begins to reside.
This problem has persisted for the past 45,000 miles. It comes and goes. Does not show up on diagnostics. It can begin first thing in morning, within minutes of starting up. The traction control has a mind of its on, and doesn’t care if it is on or off. Car is kept in garage. It has been to the shop many times, and heat sensors, as well as other corrections have been made. Obviously, the real problem has not been resolved. Problem may reoccur within hours, days, or months. Depends on when it chooses to be bit---. When it is bad, it can really be bad. But, when it is good, it can be great.
Usually, I have been able to assist correction by turning traction control on and off, multiple times. I realize this had no effect, but made me feel good. At the same time, I might be pressing the DIC off or reset button, or RCL button. Last night was the worst, pushed out the Traction Control Button, and had the car towed home as I had no power in the mountains.
You might ask why did I keep driving it. It was never actually overheating!! If you stopped and went under the hood, put your hand on the motor, hold the hoses to the overflow reservoir, they would be, maybe warm, Not Hot!! This is the reason I feel it is computer related. Can’t imagine that the ABS overheating would affect the temperature gage as well as Transaction Control. Who knows the answer???
How sold on this car am I. Read about it two year before it was actually available. Called Oldsmobile then to see when it would be available. Put my money down for first right of refusal for first car into the state. Drove it, and there was no turning back. That was in July of 94. Car is in perfect condition, well cared for, and babied. Just need to have reasonable confidence this problem can be resolved. Obviously, Oldsmobile and dealers are neither competent nor caring!! This is my last GM product, and I have owned 3 vets, 2 Eldorado’s, a Suburban, and Skylark and Old’s 88. Most fun car was a 53 Buick that had 300,000, and still ran strong. GM needs to start caring again.
Need advise and solution!!
When I bought the car 2 years ago, the selling dealer does a Prolong deal on the engine AND trans. Always worried that maybe it was that Prolong doing funny things in there. Plus, the trans fluid seemed too high so I siphened some out (was bubbling and 'pulsing' and was all the way up to the cap almost!).
Hope this works as I have already done: (all Delco products) plugs and wires, rotated a new coil around to each pair of cyl.s to see if it improved (no), EGR, fuel filter, cleaned TB and top engine cleaner, FPregulator. Only unplugging the EGR will diminished it. If the trans service doesn't do it, then I will try to remove the EGR and decarbon the chambers below it. Dealers (Caddy/Olds) like to say they all do that (especially the early Northstars) and to tell you the truth, my mom's 99 DeVille Concours (300hp) actually does it, too, but VERY,very slightly and I am the only one who notices it.?
after reading your posting one idea came to mind about your traction going haywire on you. at the shop, did they change either of the front wheel bearing/speed sensor assemblies???
The reason i ask is because mine went crazy on my 95 when i replaced only one wheel bearing unit, forcing me to replace the other one to get the same electrical reading from both wheels. It is very important that they both be changed at the same time.
just a thought.
To Autobahn95: Wheel-bearing was recently changed in one of our vehicles. Not certain if it was the Aurora. Will check with my mechanic on Monday.
While the problem has now come to a head. It has persisted for years, at least the last 45,000 miles. Now that I have destroyed my transaction control butten, it is unmanageable. Must be fixed.
The search will center around the ABS and traction control, and will probably replace the master computer board for good measure.
Please keep the advise coming.
Thanks,
hardknock
I am new to this board and recently purchased (well traded for) a 96 Aurora. I hear this is the place to discuss how to best care for these cars. First off, you can check out pictures here:
http://maytag87.dyndns.org:8081/rob/96aurora/
The car I traded for the Aurora was a splendid 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham:
http://maytag87.dyndns.org:8081/rob/88cscb2/
The car runs and drives excellent, straight, no vibration at upper range highway speeds, with all the comfort and luxary one can handle. It really seems like an excellent car and one I can see getting attached to.
However there are those repair bills that I keep hearing about. Just from reading a little of this site I can already see I have some common problems:
1) The gear shift indicator does not illuminate the red needle at night. Probably a new bulb under the console top plate?
2) The Service Engine Soon light sometimes lights after starting. And sometimes it doesnt. When it remains on after starting, one can hear the ding ding, probably setting a code? Goodness knows what sensor is getting tripped. I put a new tank of super in after riding the old gas out and the light has not come on since. Knock on woodgrain hopefully that wont come back.
3) Sometimes after startup, the traction control off light AND the ABS light stays lit and then you get the ding ding. The lights stay on while the car is running. Restart the car, and maybe they are out, maybe not. Another intermittant problem. I read on this board that the estimated repair on that one is $900. Wow! FWIW, the owners manual seems to indicate a failrue in a brake part related to ABS... When the lights are not lit, the traction control button on the consoel does turn traction control on and off based on the lights I see on the dash. Yay!
I will have to see if I can play CDs. Probably not huh?
Also, while I am changing that bulb for the gear indicator needle light, here is another one. As you can see by the interior pictures, the previous owner has the gear shift indicator installed backwards... hmmm... Ok so I pull the pin with reverse the handle. But I find that the wires to the power/normal switch that go into the shifter black plastic track are loose and not connected to anything. The wire ends are bare and probably were pooly connected, instead of being soldered. My goal is to get the top plate off of the console and reattach the wires and see what happens.
So how can I get the console top plate off to connect the wires? And is the gear indicator light just a bulb I will find under there to replace?
Thanks!
Rob
www.thecutlass.com
www.allolds.com
Welcome to the wonderful (and sometimes scary) world of classic Auroras. I cannot access your pictures link. There are several posts (393-399 in Accesories & Modifications, and some earlier ones that I cannot find) that address the shifter lamp problem. Be aware that the problem is most likely broken wiring instead of a simple burned out bulb. If you do have broken wires, don't just try to reconnect them. Instead, replace with flexible test leads (Radio Shack). The power switch and wiring was a challenge for me to reassemble. That may be why yours is disconnected since it sounds like the previous owner was in there.
Good luck!
And yes someone else has been in there, I also found that the power/normal switch on the shifter handle had the wires not connected! It appears that someone cut the black and blue wires to the shifter handle switch in the console. So I figured out how to take apart the console, found the disconnected ends and soldered them back together. Got stuff back together and took her for a drive. I LOVE the shift at higher speed! You can feel the difference. My buddy who I got the car from said that it never worked from when he got the car and he never went into the console, someone was in there before him. Go figure.
For the link to my Aurora, put the below text on one line in your browser:
http://maytag87.dyndns.org:8081/rob/96aurora/
Only part of the line will appear as a link in the post so clicking on the half-link wont work. You will need to put the entire line above into your browser. I got a shot of the RPO sticker and I am looking forward to breaking it down. The sticker is pictured on the site so feel free to have a look!
Anyway the only casualty during the repair was I drained my battery listening to the radio for 2 hours. Doh!! Had to jump start with the charger, and once I got it started, of course the oil change now notice came on. Had to reset it again to fix it! Guess the battery got real low there...
Have a nice evening!
Rob
Being used to working on the 68-72 and 78-88 RWD Oldsmobile Cutlass genra, I found the Aurora light years ahead. I could not believe how cool it was to take off the access panel on the console side, and to remove the console top plate to get access to all the stuff down there. The only thing I can compare it to is Star Trek Next Generation or Voyager, they start pulling off panels of the ship and its lit up in there and its nice and finished and you can access
stuff. This car has carpet like surface on the inside of the console and was pretty well lit up under there too (had the ignition on at the time, I know, not recommended). This car was definitely ahead of its time, and my perception is thats why stuff on this car just doesnt work well yet! Must say I really loved working on it, and I guess thats a good thing...
Rob
Is the keyless entry remote on a 96 Aurora the same as the 2002 keyless entry remote? I only have one keyless entry remote and I would like to add a second, wondering if a 2002 remote will work.
Thanks!
Rob
The knob that came loose, replaced.
The passenger front window that had a 10 inch inside scratch, replaced.
Man, you have to love that GM Warranty.
I had ran out of time to do an oil change there, so I took it somewhere else to Grossinger Cadillac GM and man, they did a wonderful job, they even washed my car for doing an oil-change with them.
Peace.
Low Coolant Level alarm on the DIC, but I've checked/added fluid and it's okay. No visible signs of leakage and coolant temp runs the same (~200 degrees) as always.
Low Washer Fluid Level alarm on the DIC. When I added fluid it leaked out - - is there a common failure point? I'll be taking the reservoir system apart to track down the leak.
Slight miss, especially on cold startup and light acceleration. I bought the car with 94k and it has 110k now, I'm not sure when/if the spark plugs & wires were replaced - - so I'm thinking that's where I'll start.
Any input will be appreciated, thanks!
Dale