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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

145791088

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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    a) Low Coolant Level - I started getting this a day or so before my water pump went. I had noticed small fluid leaks under the car, leak spots which were persistent - still there at night when I got home. Might be worth checking out.
    b) Washer Fluid Leaks - hey '95 owners, isn't this a common failure point? I have a '98, but I seem to remember it being a chronic problem. The actual reservoir is leaking. Henri?
    c) Miss - you're right, could be plugs and/or wires. Fuel Pressure Regulator is also a common failure point on these cars.

    Since you don't know what maintenance has been done, I'd also suggest changing the serpentine belt, and the separate water pump belt. You can get the belts for about $30 total, and, if you're handy, it's great insurance. A few people here have had the water pump belt shred on the freeway... not fun.

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    A good way to check this belt, is if your able to see the belt with cracks, then it's time to replace it.


    Javier


    http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

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    stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    Hey Lefty,

    I got a set of Bridgestone Turanza LS-H about 6 months ago, and love them...but I haven't seen a single set on any other car than my own until about two days ago. The set belonged to a nice black Aurora Classic in my Apartment complex....I guess great minds do think alike.
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    pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Had the trans serviced; no diff in surge. O2 Sensor next, probably needs it no matter what.
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    hardknockhardknock Member Posts: 3
    Hi All:

    My problems have been resolved. It was what I had suspected all along, and it finally showed up on the scope. "Control Board" or computer board. My mechanic said it showed temperature swings from 95 to 350 degrees. Once the temperature started rising, it shuts down cylinders. Before doing this, it stops traction control. It was all related to false reading by a bad CB. We had resolved to replace it next time in the shop. Expense was increased by $85 for my punching out the transaction control button. Otherwise, the bill would have been around $235.

    BTW, false alarms on coolant level and washer levels are some of the things I used to get early on. May be, or may not be related, or possibly,early indications. Good luck to all.

    Hardknock
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    larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    ottoracefan -

    I own a '95 now w/ about 97K miles. I bought it May 2001 w/ 50K miles.

    1)My coolant level message came on as a precursor to the water punp failing. It was probably two or three months after the first message that it finally went (and, of course about 3 weeks out of warranty).

    2)Don't have any problem w/ the washer reservoir and haven't heard of any.

    3)Slight missing could be anything. I would definitely start w/ a good tune-up, though. The fuel pressure valve normally effects cold starting mostly.

    Good luck w/ yours. I've certainly enjoyed mine and have no regrets!

    Larry
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    For some reason my 95 is starting to lose break fluid. The car had about 65k with no reak fluid problems. Since then I have had to fill it up three times to get to 77K. Any ideas???
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Look for leaks from it. It could be a leaking caliper or a cracked hose or a bad master cylinder. It could also just be something simple like a bleeder screw that isn't quite snug.

    The first thing I would look at, though, is did you get new brakes at 65k? When you put pads on, the caliper piston will be as recessed as possible. As the pad wears, the piston will stay further out. When it moves out, it needs fluid to fill in behind it. So as you wear through a set of pads, it is normal for the fluid level to gradually go down. You can add some more fluid if you want. If you add more, though, then when you change pads again you will have to remove some. Otherwise, when you compress the pistons and that fluid it pushed back into the master cylinder, there won't be any room and it will overflow all over the place. So, if you can't find a leak and the fluid is dropping very gradually, it may just be normal operation.
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    nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    Jay,
    Give it a week or two. Mine took about a week to start smoothing out. Did your mechanic (or you) add the tranny fluid reconditioner? That's what needs to get circulated through all the fluid. When the service is done only about 4 or 5 quarts of fluid are actually replaced -- but the system holds 13 I believe. The reconditioner restores the remaining fluid to "spec".
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Thank you
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    ottoracefanottoracefan Member Posts: 13
    Both of you mentioned that your water pump failed after you got the low coolant level alarm. Was the coolant level actually low because the water pump was leaking?

    My coolant level is good, but I still get the alarm occasionally.

    I'll be changing spark plugs and wires this weekend. Will let everyone know if my miss goes away.

    I'll also be tracking down the leak in my windshield washer fluid reservoir system and will post my findings.

    Thanks for the help,
    Dale
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    larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    Dale:

    My water pump definitely leaked. It was very gradual at first. I toped off the coolant after the first message and didn't get another for several weeks(a month maybe?) Meanwhile I would intermittently smell radiator fluid when under the hood. My warranty was still active, but no one could find a leak. The next time I got the message I topped it off again and a few weeks later I got another low coolant message while on a road trip (warranty had expired by then). By the time I got to my destination - another hundred and fifty miles or so away - I had had to put 2 gallons in. Needless to say, the water pump was replaced before we started home.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I think mine was leaking all along. Right after I got it, I noticed persistent small "wet spots" under the car, less than 6" in diameter - spots which would still be there when I got home from work. No real pooling, but no color or apparent odor to these spots.

    Asked the dealer where I got the car to check everything out, said no problem. Coolant levels did not seem to be getting lower.

    Then one day, started the car, "ding! ding! ding! Low Coolant" followed by a squeal. I was still under factory warranty at the time, so 800-442-OLDS and off it was on the flatbed to the dealership.

    No more leaks, no more squeals. I'd keep a close eye on the water pump (and coolant levels)...

    --Robert
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good afternoon folks,

    I would really like to attain an aftermarket warranty for my 96 Aurora with 112K miles. Is there a warranty place that will sell me a warranty this vehicle with this many miles?

    Thanks!
    Rob
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    442455442455 Member Posts: 64
    I am considering buying a 1999 Aurora with 39000 miles from a local Chevrolet dealer. He says the factory warranty is no longer in effect. I was wondering what the time/mileage range is on this Aurora. The vehicle was bought at a GM off lease auction by his dealership, if this would have any affect on the warranty.
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    that the factory warranty on classics was 4 years or 40,000 miles. This would put it just barely under warranty.
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    mcclearyflmcclearyfl Member Posts: 149
    But a '99 model that was sold, for example, in October of 1998 would no longer be under warranty.

    Chris
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    pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    nne3jxc: Thanks for the tip. is this conditioner GM or aftermarket? If afterm., what is the brand name?
    Jay
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    ottoracefanottoracefan Member Posts: 13
    Changed spark plugs and wires (Bosch, nice stuff, $75) and most of the miss disappeared. Still had a miss when under light throttle. I happened to have some used coils from a GM V6, so I started switching coils out of the Aurora one-by-one. Wouldn't you know it - - I started on the wrong end and it took me 2 hours to find the bad one! But I'm happy, it runs smooth as silk!

    Judging by markings on the plugs & wires I removed, it looks like the originals were still in there at 110k. I removed the cruise control servo, vacuum reservoir and coil pack to get access to the rear plugs. Job took 2 leisurely hours, then 2 more to switch out the coils.

    To investigate my windshield washer leak, I removed the right front wheel and fender liner. A rubber elbow had come loose from the hard plastic tubing that runs from the washer pump (on the lower tank) to the washer nozzles. Was going to glue it back on, but the tubing was old and brittle so I replaced everything with new rubber hose - $2.45, problem solved.

    I replaced the serpentine belt while the fender liner was removed, this made the job much easier.

    The Low Coolant Level alarm went away a couple days after adding fluid, not sure of why there was a delay. Thanks to hammen2 and larryfl, I have been watching closely for water pump leaks and will continue to do so - - none so far.

    While I was on a roll, I tackled the shifter console and fixed the gear indicator light. My wiring wasn't broken, just a burned out bulb.

    All problems fixed, very few $$$'s spent, it's running like a top - - happy Aurora owner once again! Thanks for the help, Dale
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    garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    The classic was 4yr/50k. My 98 has an in-service date of 12-21-98 and is still under factory coverage for about a month while some 99's are out of warranty by the clock.
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    800wattaurora800wattaurora Member Posts: 187
    TRACTION OFF and ABS light problem is fixed! Ended up being the abs hub speed sensor. Warrenty covered. Been having this problem for a while. If I couldn't get it fixed I told myself I'd have to trade her in. I'm glade my 96 is all better now. She's been under the knife several times recently. First attempted to fix the problem I ended up getting a new power steering pump. I told them there's any engine whine and I read here that that's a common problem and if the could do a good look over since my warrenty is almost up.

    My new service guy Paul is Great at Countryside Caddy, first time there. He said it looked fine but wanted to get ride of the whine noise. They cleared the codes and said come back when you get something. Of course 30mins later the darn lights come on again. After a week they came on a dozen times. Made an apointment to bring it back in, left it while I went on Vacation to Reno-Lake Tahoe (It's gorgous there, GREAT TRIP!) Paul asked me, Anything else I can get you, that your warrenty company will cover? How about an Alternator, No problem, I here some noise coming from it. What a guy. After the trip NO MORE LIGHTS! YIPPY! Shes a keeper.

    This is all with 1,000 miles left of Aftermarket warrenty. They've paid out over 5 grand in claims during 54K-90K. See if I can re-new it original cost 1,500 at dealer. You can get an aftermarket warrenty at almost any car dealer.

    Taylor
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    crumb1crumb1 Member Posts: 3
    Anyone have to replace one yet? I have a small leak with my 97 and the dealer quoted $762 to replace. Is that about right? I know this is a "heavy" job, and lots of labor, but just looking for other opinions...darn thing isn't under warranty either :(

    Mike
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good afternoon folks,


    Well I took the plunge. I got an aftermarket warranty for my 96 Aurora with 112K on the clock. I was able to get it from http://www.1sourceautowarranty.com/. I chose a 3 year 36K with 0 deductable + hi tech package. Runs about $3000. After reading the fine print and seing what it covers and what it doesn't,


    I think it will work out very well. It covers seemingly common stuff like water pump, stereo CD problems, alt etc. There are systems that are not covered such as traction control. Had to be under 100K to get that kind of plan. While my car is in pretty decent condition, I am thinking I have a shot of getting more than I spent out of the warranty. My cars usually get less than 10,000 miles a year... We'll see how it goes.


    Enjoy!

    Maytag

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    larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    Maytag..

    I have been looking for a few months for a warranty company to write my '95 w/ 95K and not been able to find one. I got all hot and bothered over your post, called them, AND THEY DON'T DO BUSINESS IN FLORIDA!!??!

    Actually, the good news is they have applied but aren't certified now. Hopefully I can hold out another month or so without any additional major expenses.
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    larryfl,

    Sorry to hear you were unable to get them to help you out with an aftermarket warranty. Usually its my state - Mass - that is so highly consumer protective that many places cant do business here. You see that most often with car insurance companies... At any rate, after seeing one of our posters happy to spend $1100/yr for a warranty have $1900 of repairs for that year, I figure $1000/yr average for a 3 year term is decent. Of course it all comes down to the service, and this company seems to have a lot of pleased customers and is recommended by carbuyingtips.com. If I find another aftermarket warranty for higher milage Auroras, I will post it here.

    Good luck!
    Maytag
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    pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Dropped off for repairs my Bose CD player I got on Ebay. Seems this radio shop's radio doctor couldn't get it to malfunction on his bench. Met him back at the shop that funneled the work out to him (these guys seem to work out of their home shops) and put it back in the car and showed him the SFUT-SFUT sound. Seems the deal with our Classics is that the radio sits in the dash at a slight angle so when either the laser lens (?) or the motor start to go, it happens earlier for us. He has had Delco CDs not play unless they were turned upside down so the sagging pickup lens would get close enough to the CD. Ours need to be right on or problems start as soon as the lens starts sagging or the motor get weak. Others keep going and problems don't start until the parts get really bad. That's why mine would play fine on a level surface.
    Jay
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Wow so they think its the angle of the stereo that causes earlier than expected symptoms. That is interesting! I wonder if there is something that can be done to correct the mounting angle problem. There is probably no space above the radio to work with but even changing the angle slightly more straightward would probably have positive effects.

    My most recent Aurora fun was Fri evening when I fixed my gear shift indicator needle light! I had a bad bulb and my wiring bad. I chose not to buy the $260 wiring harness, and instead spent 15 minutes reconencting the two wires to the bulb housing. Looks great at night!

    Good luck!
    Maytag
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    oldsman2oldsman2 Member Posts: 14
    I just had the following service completed: plugs/plug wires, fuel filer, air filter, oil change, coolant flush, and the wiring in the console "re-done", all for the bargain price of $560.

    I requested the tune-up because the car was becoming increasingly difficult to start when cold, and since I already had the fuel pressure regulator replaced last year, I was 99% sure the problem was in the plugs/wires.

    As for the coolant flush, I had this done because I had gotten the now infamous "low coolant" notification on the message center display 3 times over the last 6 months. When flushed, the system was pressure tested and the water pump was inspected. The dealer confirmed that it had no leaks, and that the pump was in perfect working condition. They also informed me that it is not uncommon for a cooling system of that size to "absorb / evaporate" liquid, thus causing the coolant level to drop a little from time to time....anyone hear of this before?

    I think they fixed most of the wiring, however I seem to remember a light near the traction control switch; can someone please confirm this.

    Finally, I have been one of the many who have suffered from the 60mph-75mph vibration problem. The local Goodyear shop actually got it right the last time I had them balance the Aquatreds that I paid too much for, but I decided to do my own front brakes last month and did not put the tires back on the same way I took them off, thus throwing off the forced balance...I thought Aquatreds were supposed to be GREAT in the snow, but their grip is worse than the Goodyear GA's that came with the car. Starting out is not that difficult (with help from the traction control), but the stopping ability is horrible.

    I recently bought a 2003 Eclipse GTS and was made aware of the $6000 trade value, so I just elected to keep both...the Aurora is not a bad winter beater, and with only 78,000 miles, it should last a few more years..
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good afternoon folks,


    My Aurora has an intermittant SES light, once its on, it stays on until the car is shut off. When you start the car and the light is not lit, usually it doesnt light up during a trip, though sometimes it does. From all indications it has done this for some time, even when my buddy Joe, the past owner, owned the car. There are no other symptoms other than the SES light being lit.


    Today I ran the codes and pulled back some info on it. It is generating a P0716 and a P0717. The code printout and info about the codes and other readings can be seen at http://maytag87.dyndns.org:8081/rob/96aurora/auroracodes.jpg


    Any suggestions about what could be causing the problem and what, if anything, I could do to fix it? It really doesnt seem to be causing any problems but it would be nice if I could resolve the problem!


    Thanks!

    Maytag

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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Maybe you could delete two of the triple posts? What year is your Aurora? I remember a few folks with 1995's having problems with the Input Speed Sensor. Apparently the wiring to it would corrode or something? It's in the tranny, so it will probably be a lot of labor to repair. You may want to search back a bit.
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    auroraprobauroraprob Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 in southern TX. Recently, the temp at which the car runs has been progressively increasing in the city, and will run into 250 if I drive the car long enough. When I drive at higher, more consistent speeds, the gage comes down, but always runs well above 200 deg. Problem seem to get worse and worse each day. I had this same problem about three months ago and, dealership told me I had holes in the radiator that needed to be replaced and second mechanic eventually determined that the fans were not kicking in at the right time, and ended up replacing some computer circuitry. Could this be the same problem happening all over again. It is strange the way it progresses.

    Also have had numerous problems with AC that has been worked on four times and still blows hot air. I am tired of the electronic nightmare this car seems to be.

    Any comments are appreciated.
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    rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    The fans to make sure they are coming on. Also, you can remove any debris and such from the radiator fins with a stiff-bristled brush. Make sure the coolant is still ok, there is enough of it, and that it is the proper mixture. Too much anti-freeze and not enough water will not cool effectively. Also, make sure that lip is still on the front of the car as it directs air into the radiator. My bet would be the fans, though, if it only runs hot while you are moving slow.

    There's also always the possibility that the temp sender is old and is no longer accurate.
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    lobstermanlobsterman Member Posts: 31
    does anyone know what fuse the side marker lights, rear ones are red and front are yellow, are located on the fuse panel? My front cornering lights work but the side marker lights are out. Figure i would check the fuse first before changing bulbs.
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    golicgolic Member Posts: 714
    I have an '01 V6 and lately the steering wheel almos makes like a slight griding noise on turns. Also, if the car is cold and I turn the wheel all the way I get a another type of noise. Has anyone experienced this??
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    rocket3_50rocket3_50 Member Posts: 42
    Last week my '01 V6 was in the dealership for two steering related problems. Maybe they resemble your problems.

    a) A sort of moan or growl from the power steering unit on slow speed, or start-up, turns. As I understand it, the power steering unit has a poorly designed fluid valve that vibrates audibly under specific low speed conditions. The fix was to replace the whole power steering unit and some of the associated hose. There is an Oldsmobile Technical Service Bulletin already out on this problem, and the dealer should know about it. The first Cadillac dealer I tried claimed ignorance and didn't know about it. I'm not sure whether he was ignorant or not. The second Chevrolet dealer's shop manager knew about it and responded right away with a tentative diagnosis while on the test drive with me. He ordered the parts (It is a substantial repair, and they don't stock the parts.), and the parts delivery and repair was complete within a week of the test drive. About a 6-hour job, I'm told. It was covered under my new car 5-year, 60,000-mile warranty. No charge.

    b) While turning the steering wheel I felt a rubbing or maybe a weak grabbing that felt like an off-center steering wheel shaft, or maybe a worn out guide bushing. Again, the Chevy shop manager knew what it was immediately and offered a tentative diagnosis on the test drive with me. They pulled the "intermediate steering shaft" (I think), lubricated it, and reassembled it. About 30 minutes work, he said. The shop manager said that the intermediate steering shaft problem was well known in the GM repair shops. Also covered under my new car warranty. No charge.

    c)At the Chevy dealer's own initiative, and while they had part of the dash disassembled, they replaced a burned-out dash bulb that they discovered during the repair work. No charge.

    Unlike my experience with the Cadillac dealer, the Chevy dealer didn't leave greasy hand prints on the interior, didn't scratch the walnut veneer, and didn't cut the vinyl trim while working on the interior. (The Chevy dealer hasn't had a chance yet on regular routine maintenance, but I bet they don't put in the wrong oil like the Cadillac dealer did.) Do you see a pattern here?

    I hope items a) and b) above help you identify your the problems when you go to your repair shop.

    Ken
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    golicgolic Member Posts: 714
    Thanks rocket,

    I am going to print this out and bring it in to the dealer. Sounds alot like my problems.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    The clunking noise/feeling when turning is the Intermediate Steering Shaft. This is a common problem on Intrigues and 2001-up Auroras, as well as Impalas. The solution is the lube kit, and it fixes the problem until the lube is needed again (at which point in time you may be out of warranty - those of you with '01's and up with the 5 yr 60k warranty, keep this in mind as your warranty expires).

    Lobsterman, I've had my side marker lights each replaced twice under the factory warranty, for both moisture and burnout (probably related). Fortunately they've stayed functional over the past year (since I've been covered by my aftermarket warranty). Another CRI (Common Repair Item) on the Classics...

    --Robert
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    chstr1000chstr1000 Member Posts: 32
    Just bought a 96 Aurora. Has 76000 miles on it, bought it for $6500. I thought it was good deal. Book value at credit union is $9700. I really like the car so far, but recently it started missing while driving, but not idling. It was not consistent, it would come and go. Just few days ago, missing got so bad the check engine light came on. Pulled up to stop light and car stalled for no reason, just like you shut the key off. It started right back up. Check engine light when out and it started running great again. I had AutoZone do and engine diagnostic. It showed only that there was an engine misfire. The guy there thought I probably had gotten some bad gas. (I did run 10 gallon of 87 octane in it before I realized what I was doing). He recommended changing the filter.
    I was relieved, BUT then it died at idle 3 more times on me that night before I got home. It also died 3 or 4 times on my wife the next day.
    I noticed the fuel pressure regulator mentioned and thought I would write in for anyones thoughts. How hard is this to change, and how expensive. Would appreciate any help. Thanks!
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    chstr1000:

    I replaced the fuel pressure regulator on my '97 in May. GM part cost me ~$45 from a Cadillac/Olds dealer. Took me about 10 to 15 minutes to replace.

    However, my symptoms did not match what you describe. My '97 was slow to start -- it was flooded from fuel dripping into the intake manifold. It never stalled. Last symptom was an explosion and fire! Lucky for me the flame extinguished itself after blowing out one of the PCV pipes and charring the hood insulator.
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    chstr1000,


    Welcome to the world of Auroras! I just got a 96 Aurora with 110K miles a few months back. Been a great car and I have put about 1500 miles on it. One thing I noticed soon after I got it that on 2 occasions it took more than 5 seconds to start and I guess thats an early sign of the Fuel Pressure Regulator going. The folks here basicly advised replacing the FPR, and that cleared it up completely.


    It was very easy to replace, right on top of the motor under the gray plastic cover. I got the part at the dealer for $66. I guess with your misfire problem it might be a good idea to replace the spark plugs and wires first and then the FPR.


    I have some notes on replacing spark plugs and wires:

    plugs & wire replacement


    and replacing the FPR:



    FPR replacement




    One more suggestion - get a warranty on that Aurora - some of the repair costs can be quite costly and even one covered repair could allow the warranty to pay for itself.


    Hope that helps!

    Maytag

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    mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    However, my 98 aurora would idle at the stop signs and die abruptly, no misfire, no rough idle, it was as if some one turned off the ignition switch, at first it was occasionally, then it started to happen regularly, and soon after it started to backfire. The air cleaner was loaded with carbon from the backfires. A new FPR cured the problem instantly, as blk97 stated its about fifteen minutes work to change it. Look back at previous posts for directions. If your plugs and ESPECIALLY wires have around 70,00 miles on them their carbon core is probably shot. Replacing hte FPR will probably stop the stalling completely (from my experience), but the wires really should be replaced as well and why not do the plugs as well as long as you have to get at the wires.
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    nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    Jay,


    Back on Nov 19th you wrote on the Aurora Discussion:

    nne3jxc: Thanks for the tip. is this conditioner GM or aftermarket? If afterm., what is the brand name?


    Sorry, I didn't get back to the discussion -- haven't visited the board in a while (I know, bad me! There's no excuse!)
    Anyway, I don't know the name -- it's an additive added by my mechanic -- I got the impression that it was something that isn't commonly found in "consumer" auto parts shops.

    A few weeks have gone by now, have you noticed any difference?

    Jim
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    dpencedpence Member Posts: 4
    I'm new to this forum. I have a 95 Aurora with 70000 miles on it. It ran great until a week ago.I went to start it and it took several seconds longer. On my way home an officer pulled me over and told me I had alot of smoke pouring out of the exhaust. I got out and also noticed a strong smell of gas. Well I've changed the plugs and wires and found no code or engine light. Also along with the smoke and gas smell I have a miss at idle. I checked the hose from the FPR to the intake and it's dry. Right now it is sitting, afraid the raw gas might wash my cylinder walls or ruin my cat. Any suggestion?????
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Seriously though, it may be a sensor problem also. The care is very computer dependant.

    Henri
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    pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    nn3jxc;Thanks Jim. I check in every week or so, too. No it didn't make a difference. I will ask my parts buddy at the dealership about what GM has. Generally, if they don't have/use it, then it doesn't exist!
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    pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Just had it replaced on my 75,000 95. Started leaking, thought it was oil 'till I got a low brake fluid light and message on the DIC. Saw wetness under the cyl where it bolts to the power booster. Kind of unusual for this age and miles don't you think? Or is this another area to watch?
    Jay
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    nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    Jay,
    If you (or anyone) really wants to know what the additive is that my mechanic added to my tranny to clear up the surging, let me know. I'll call him and post the results here....

    Jim
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I have about 79000 on my 95 and I am having the same issue with the brakes.

    Point of interest ---- Consumer Reports rated the 97 above average in reliability and 99 as average. The Classic was excellent and above average in several categories from 95-99.

    This was in the 2003 edition of the book.
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    stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    Hey Pizza,

    I had the same issue with my master cyl a month or two ago. I've got 130,000 on mine. Just a tip: I went to my local autozone to pick up the new cyl...it was a Fenco brand I think. about a week later it failed on me. The car and I came out ok...lucky for me it was a quiet day on the highway. I had a friend of mine who's Caddy had the same problem, at the same time, with the same brand master cyl. That was enough for me to go through the trouble of going down to the Parts Warehouse in Detroit to get my GM brand cyl, I was not going to press my luck. So, there is my 2 cents, but you won't see me buying Fenco anything anymore. Good luck with the brakes. Oh by the way, if you do the work yourself, take a lot of time to bench bleed it....that ('95)style master cyl can take forever...it took me almost a half an hour of to get all the air out on mine.
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    maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good evening Aurora folks,

    Got to change the driver side headlight (just went) on my 96 Aurora, so the wife can drive it to work tonight without getting a ticket on the well patrolled main road. I have about 2 hours to complete the replacement and I am going out to buy the headlight at KMart now. Is this something I can replace quickly on this car?

    Thanks!
    Maytag
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