Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

stevenw

THANK YOU to the poster for posting the following:

#2686 of 3380 re: Replaced plugs/water pump now won't start [keshet] by hammen2 Jun 26, 2005 (3:54 pm)
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Replying to: keshet (Jun 26, 2005 11:30 am)

I would definitely make the garage replace the Champion plugs and whatever wires they used with AC Delco. It's possible, if your old wires were really bad, that you fried one or more coil packs.
As sinatra2 said, the cause of the lights flashing/relay clicking IS the multifunction switch.
http://www.howardm.net/dred98/switchfix.php is the URL you need to visit. Do that, let the battery charge up, take your car in to get the plugs and wires replaced with the right parts, and THEN let us know if the starting problem is still occurring. As sinatra2 said, it's possible that the drain from the flashing lights has killed your battery. This happened to mine.
Regarding the whine from the radio, I suspect interference from the plug wires. Again, have those re-replaced and see if the radio problem continues to occur.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

I recently had the lights flasshing/car off deal going on and serached in this forum running across this post and several from "sinatra2" that guided me to the "dred98" web page. The step by step instructions were easy to follow and I cleaned the contacts and dried them with the lube spray and air blaster from Radio Shack. In under 2.5 hours my car was working right and I was back on the road without paying a GM dealer (try to find an Olds dealer anymore!!) to replace the multifunction switch for $650.

AWESOME!

Thanks again.

mshuda1

Karen,
I just had the same problem on my Aurora.
You need a new electronic trottle idle control speed module.
Its a little electronic part (about $17.99) at discount auto. Its a 10 minute job for a mechanic that knows what they are doing.
Regards,
Mark

mshuda1

Les,
I did find a problem with my thermostat housing cracked but after taking car to a "certified" mechanic found out the car is OK to run at 220.
So I was overeacting to the temperature guage.
Thanks for your help and input.
Mark

mshuda1

I have a 95 Aurora and just today the car started making a hard thumping noise when shifting from park to reverse.
As someone said in another post ....its almost like a loose motor mount it is so loud.
Looks like this is a common problem. I don't see that it has been identified and solved on the forum. Am I correct.
What is a PCM module? (It was referenced in a prior post as a possible fix to above). IS this an expensive repair?
Any help appreciated.
Please e-mail : mshuda@new.rr.com
Thanks

gm_alltheway

i just bought this 98 aurora about a month ago with this little problem i knew about. when driving at any speeds over 50 the car starts running extrmely hot and indicators begin to come on and it boils out most of its coolant.. it no longer has dexcool, radiator and cap have been replaced and also the water pump and thermostat....the man we purchased it from told us that he had the heads pressure checked and that they were fine so does anyone have any other ideas? none of these things we have replaced helped the problem at all. Please help :confuse: :sick:

brassadonis

Hello everyone. My 97 Aurora's display reads "low oil pressure" along with a chime when the weather is over 85 degrees. Winter time there hasn't been a problem.

My temp gauge goes above the mid-point after driving for about 20 minutes. Then when I stop at a light I receive the low oil pressure signal.

Anyway. my question is this. I see alot of talk about the sending unit. Has any one had this problem with a and has the fix? If so can they tell me what was the cure.

eaglesnest51

The sensor is located inside the transmission at the top. The entire transmission has to be removed from the car and all the "guts" removed to be able to change the switch. Not an easy job.

Eagle

eaglesnest51

This is an update to this message.

We have determined the cause of this issue. The wiring harness that connects the fuel pump to the main wiring harness under the vehicle drivers side about in the middle of the car. When the fuel pump goes bad the first time it will overheat the groud wire in the harness causing it loose connection intermittently.

The fix in the past was to always change the wiring harness with a fuel pump change however that is not possible any longer since the harness is out of production and must be "custom" made.

chantellerock

Hi there - I noticed in you rmessage you had problems with flashing lights. Were they the headlights and parking lights? If so, would you mind telling me if you know how to hix the problem, and if yo uknow what the problem is? Thanks a lot!

fernie

I have a 1995 aurora and I have the same problem with it do you find out the solution? can you please help me? Thank you and God bless you.

gtaft

Have a 2001 Aurora that is having the same problem. Low Oil Pressure. Dealer can't figure it out. What finanly worked for you?
Any help with this will save me bucks.
Thanks

chantellerock

My car looked possessed for a short while, but thanks to this site, I found detailed instructions on how to clean the grease out of the turn signal stalk which, according to all aurora owners with this annoyance, is the solution. I havent gotten to it yet but the feedback given on the instruction page is very positive, so Im hopeful.

So anyway, my PROBLEM is...since the lights were flashing like crazy, and the lcm was clicking constantly, my battery died. It had recharged itself on other occasions, but Im wondering if it will charge up this time. I read that someone who had this problem ended up with a completely dead battery, it "killed" it.

Will the battery eventualy recharge? Will I have to replace it? Any idea on on what it will cost me? :confuse:

blk97aurora

It is impossible to answer that question without knowing some details. How old is the battery? If it is only a few years old, it may be OK. If it's 5 or more, maybe not.

When you say "recharge," do you mean from your car's alternator or an external battery charger? I would recommend an external charger.

AFAIK ACDelco makes the only replacement battery with the proper venting provisions. I paid $110 for one at an ACDelco distributor about 5 years ago. GM dealers will soak you for a lot more.

I believe some people have replaced their batteries with Optima gel electrolyte batteries. I do not how successful this is.

Hope this helps.

Les Young

95a

I had the same problem and if you want a quick and cheap fix here it is, your key has a resistor built into it at the base before the rubber, find the resistance of this resistor and get one at your local Radio shack. Remove the cover around your steering wheel you will find 2 wires running to where you put your key in, cut the wires and slave the resistor in(making sure you have the correct value) and you will never have a starting problem again, for me it has been 2 years since I did this.
Cheers

benderde

After we took the door apart to try to fix the broken door handle (still not repaired). The lights are flashing and clicking noise in the dashboard killing my battery. Anyone know how to fix this?

pilot2001

I'm starting to have same problem with my Aurora 2001 4.0. I thought that it was related to a "rough" idle (it feels like the engine is going to cut out when car is stopped - car shakes a little). My DIC indicates Low Engine Coolant but it's OK. I had CanTire remove clean and service Idle Air Control Valve ($48). Left the shop late afternoon and all seemed OK but later on in the evening I was driving along and the car stalled at about 40-55 km/h? This happend once before.

Just had battery and spark plugs replaced recently. It sounds like there might be a a problem with one of the sensors on the transmission. However, I've learned from the forum that the computer does not generate codes for this problem. Good thing I didn't waste $96 on that diagnostic.

What should I do to get my car running right?

:confuse:

laureng

Hi. I've read this forum often but this is my first post. The latest problem with my 97 Aurora, 101K miles, is the front passenger door is stuck and can't open at all from the inside or out. I started noticing last week the "front passenger door ajar" warning would light up when I had someone with me. They'd open and shut it again and it would go away. Yesterday my passenger could not get the door open at all after all doors were unlocked. Neither of us could open it from inside either. No problem with any of the other doors. I'm bringing the car in for service this Thursday for tires, replacement rims, and an alignment among other things. I don't know if this is the type of repair shop that could fix this (not a dealer but a AAA repair shop which I'm using for the first time - I've already spent close to $3K with the dealer over the past year for other problems they couldn't quite figure out, and I don't want to go back there). I'm hoping someone might know a procedure I could give this shop so they could give it a try while its there for all the other services. I'm not in a good financial place (single mom of teens) or else I'd get rid of this car in a minute. Ex husband left with his new GF and thought he was doing me a "favor" by taking my old Corolla and leaving me the "nice" car. The Corolla is still running fine I hear. Sorry I'm sounding pissed!! I really am a nice person but this car has me going crazy, plus I feel like I get ripped off at the service shops since I know nothing about mechanics. That's why I'm being self taught at these forums! Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

You might do better at a body shop for this type of problem. I suspect a rod or lever or relay inside the door isn't working. Body shops know a lot about fixing doors, windows, etc.

brassadonis

Body shop probably would be you best best. My Driver side door was stuck too and the body shop fixed my door for about 2 hundred less than the service places would. A year later my passenger side window is not rolling down. I'll have to take it in for that too

brassadonis

People say that the pressure sending unit is what causes the low oil pressure message but I haven't heard/read anyone say hta t it worked for them.

Guess I'll have to order the Delco part and see what happens. I'm going to wait a little while before doing so.

Mr_Shiftright

Your symptoms suggest that the sending unit may not be the problem, since this problem occurs only when the oil in hot; however, given the alternative possibilities, none of which are very pleasant, I'd say sure go for the sending unit and change your oil and filter and see how it goes.

Good luck with it.

brassadonis

Right before my low oil pressure warning message is displayed,,,my engine temp gauge rises but doesn't go near the red. I was thinking the same thing about how my engine temp gauge rises. I drove around town for about a 25 to 30 minutes on a hot day with lots of stops. I didn't get the alarm.

The service places can't seem to give me an answer either.

pizza442

This, too, has been discussed somewhere in the past (do a search). It sometimes really is low pressure and the fix involves freeing up a pressure valve. The fix involves overfilling the oilpan to like 10 qts., run (don't drive!) it at a certain rpm for a short time. This does like a backflush of this relief valve and frees it up. This may be detailed on one of the Caddy forums, too.

Mr_Shiftright

Huh. And where might this pressure valve be located?

I was going to suggest that the owner change his oil and filter and see what happens. I wonder if the oil pan can be dropped on this car without too much hassle, to examine the oil pump pick up screen or to remove the oil pump and measure the clearance in the pump gears?

brassadonis

This problem only happens in the Summer when the weather is hot. The mechanics are clueless but try to help. Also seem ready to run up my credit card with some of the things they mention. I know it's hard to pin-point a problem that a mechanic has never had before.

My oil and filters have been change several times by 3 different shops.

There is a certain route I drove last year that would give me the problem on a hot day. I think I will try it again next weekend. My car hasn't had the low oil pressure alarm since last weekend and only did it briefly.

here is an interesting link
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=255510&highlight=oil+- pressure

It sounds like I would be asking for problems if I tried this

Mr_Shiftright

Okay, so they are talking about the oil pump. This makes more sense. Sounds like it's worth a try to add the 12 quarts but I have to say that this procedure also sounds like an act of desperation---a last ditch long shot.

brassadonis

Oil pump: Low oil pressure may result from debris caught in Northstar engine oil pump pressure relief valve. (1993-94)
I got this from consumer guide my car is a 97
http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/2003/act/usedc- arreviewreliability?print=yes

This guy describes the same problem I have but has a 96 aurora in the quote below. I got this from a caddy forum.

"A similar thing happened on the 96 aurora. In the summer on hot days the message showed up. It got worse and worse until I replaced the sensor, problem gone.

I believe the sts uses only a switch (on/off) instead of a sensor (various levels) but it would be worth looking into."

I think my Aurora has a switch.

ehasley

i just discovered that i am now having the same problem with my '97. it just started tonight. air is cool at the passenger vents, but the drivers side feels like outside air. My A/C system never seemed to strong even after a re-charge. it takes a extremely long time to cool down, and the air never seems quite cold like every other car i've ever been in. Im wondering if you were able to get this issue resolved, and what exactly was it. I dont want to spend extra money having the tech's try to diagnosis my problem or give me the wrong solution. Any help you be greatly appreciated.

Thank-you in advance
Evan

Mr_Shiftright

Well certainly when doing a diagnosis, go from the simple first to the complex last.

medictex

1995 Aurora, runs rough at all RPM's. Have replaced spark plugs and wires, both O2 sensors, all 4 coil packs. I am going to try cleaning the throttle body and EGR assembly. Curious if anyone has any ideas as to what else might be the culprit. Thinking that maybe the fuel injectors might be going out (169k miles). They are easy to get to, but don't know if that is a job a non-pro should tackle.

ehasley

My 97 aurora with 52,000 miles just recently started losing anti-freeze. I can't see any visible leaks under the car, the oil is not milky nor does the exhaust smell or smoke. but the engine runs temp. runs normal, then will elevate to just below the red zone. the radiator fans run almost constantly. This all started to occur right after my AC in the drivers side stopped working. Passenger side still blows cold but drivers side blows outside air. I recently also had a coolant flush at an GM dealer. any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks
evan

jesse01

I recently replaced my O2 sensor behind the Catylic Converter and located the one under the manifold. I was told that there are two remaining? Could anyone point me in the right direction.
Thanks.

jesse01

When my car is in park, it runs extremely hot. The temperature gauge goes up, and I smell oil burning. The problem usually occurs when im in traffic, and there is not a flow of air going to the engine, and as soon as traffic eases up and Im open an running, the engines cools down again. I keep regular oil changes on the car, and clean air filters, both of the fans are functioning properly. Could anyone help me out? :confuse: :confuse:

blk97aurora

jesse01,

You don't write what year and motor you have, and that info is not in your profile.

If '95, there are only two O2 sensors.
If '96-'99, there are four (one in each exhaust manifold and one at each end of the catcon).
If '01-'03 V*, I assumed same as '96-'99.
If '01-'02 V6, I don't know.

Les

blk97aurora

jesse01,

What does "extremely hot" equate to on the temperature gauge? Do you notice a difference with and without a/c? What weight and type of oil are you using? Is the coolant level in the surge tank correct? What is the condition of the coolant pump drive belt?

Check for obstructions to airflow through the a/c condensor and radiator -- things like leaves, insects, plastic bags, etc. You will need to take off the top cover/brace of the radiator to check the space between the radiator and condensor. I once found a plastic grocery store bag there.

Les

rocket88man

I have a '98 with Autobahn and 140,000 miles. While driving in high gear at 40-50 mph, it seems to go into neutral for 3-4 seconds. The speedo drops to zero, the tack jumps up, and before you can react, it returns to normal. The trans fluid in clean and clear, at the right level, and all else is fine on the car.

Anybody familiar with this problem, and have a solution? Of course it only does it to my wife.

Joe in Phoenix

rgerrad

I've just returned from a 2000 mile road trip where suddenly the oil consumption in my 01 Aurora 3.5 went from a quart every 1500 miles to 2 quarts every 500 miles. Changed the PCV valve, checked for leaks and there are none. The tail pipes and the back bumper are quickly covered with black soot. There is no blue smoke, but on hard acceleration I get black smoke. Also, mileage dropped from 28 to 22.

Any ideas out there? Has this happened to anyone else?

ibtiggs

I have a '95 as well, and had the exact same symptoms (slamming HARD into drive and reverse). The dealer replaced the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), to the tune of $800.00 canadian. Since then, the problem has not returned.

Hope his helps

rgerrad

Along with my oil burning problem my 2001 Aurora 3.5 will now not go into overdrive. There's no difference between 3rd gear and D except a faint whine that goes away when you shift to 3rd. If I'm going down a hill or let off on the accelerator when in D the RPM drops to idle.

Any clues? There are no code's from the tranny.

I think this car's falling apart.

dlapadula

I am another one with the cooling fans only working if the a/c is on, but I wonder if I caused the problem? My radiator was leaking and I was loosing antifreeze a little bit at a time. I ran out of antifreeze and began using plain water, does this mean I lowered the boiling point so much that the cooling fans would no longer go on? Also for this problem if the cooling fans do not come on with the a/c on, does replacing the PCM fix this problem? I have 120,000 miles but have so much money into the car I hate to give up if I am almost done. I replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator in the past month at a cost of $650.00. I appreciate any and all advice. Thanks Donna

blk97aurora

Donna,

You do not state the year of your Aurora, and that info is not in your profile.

Classic Aurora fans do not turn on with a/c off unless coolant is low or temp is greater than 227 degrees. If neither of these conditions is met, then your fans should not be turning. What you did re replacing coolant with water has no effect on controlling the fans.

If the fans do not come on with a/c on, there are many possible causes. Look for the less expensive potential solutions before replacing the PCM; problem could be with wiring, fuses, relays, etc.

What temps are you seeing on your gauge?

Les

Henry

Hello All:

Henri here, have not posted in awhile. I like my aROARa but I am so sad that most of the postings are to the problems and solutions board.

I was at my car's Condo (some call it the dealer's shop) talking to the mechanic that has the same 95 Classic that I own. He told me that he replaced the metal fuel lines UNDER the car. These are NOT the lines covered by the recall.

He pointed out tome that my lines were pitted with rust and should be replaced soon. I have a manufacture date of Dec 1994 for the car. Has anyone else had to replace the fuel lines under the car???

imidazol97

You need to have the proper mix of antifreeze and water to raise the boiling point under pressure of the radiator cap to above the point at which the fans turn on due to temperature rise.

jerickso

Our 2001 Aurora idles rough (to the point you can watch the tach jump, both in park and drive.

Advance Auto Parts has a free diagnostics check, and their scanner showed it was running lean. They suggest the EGR valve or the oxygen sensors.

Since I don't want to just throw parts at it, hasn't anyone else experienced this? It happened suddenly, as opposed to a dirty fuel filter.

Thanks!
Jim

blk97aurora

Fred,

With the surge tank pressure cap operating at 15 psi as designed, pure water will boil at 247 degrees -- 20 degrees higher than the point at which the fans are designed to turn on.

Les

coreyg1

I have 98 Aurora, the service engine light came on this past weekend, I checked the manual regarding this, and checked gas tank, light still on. I am going to wait this out for maybe the next tank of gas. Could this be related to a lower octane in the fuel? Or somthing else. Any help would be apprectiated.

Thanks

mbmoore

My 2001 Aurora, with the 3.5 is doing the exact same thing, I just noticed it on the 7th of July. From the whining to the RPM drop, identical.

Any help would be appreciated.

brassadonis

I had a check engine light that would come on and off for maybe over 2 years. Once I started using the premium mobil/exxon gas It stopped. It's only came on twice since. Both times since I switched gas I had less than half a tank of gas. Also the light didn't stay on very long maybe about 30 to 60 minutes each time. That's a lot better than seeing it on all week. I'm pretty sure the maual in my 97 calls for at least 92 or 91 octane. This new station has at least 93 octane in it's gas.

fernie

thank you , thank you very much

gm_alltheway

this is going to be the 4th message ive posted on this topic and hopefully this time a get at least a reply from someone! i have a 98 aurora that is overheating when ever i drive above 55mph. When i bought it the radiator had just been replaced ( so about 4 months ago) i have replaced the water pump, thermostat, surge tank cap, and the fans appear to be working properly and as far as i can tell the air deflectors are in place. The engine will get hot enough that the "engine hot, turn off a/c" indicator will come on and the coolant will start to boil. i have had diagnostics done and nothing abnormal was found. Recently while driving, when the car started to overheat, i turned the heat on full blast it blew hot for a few minutes then started blowing cool and the coolant temp guage began to climb again .... then a few minutes later it stopped and the heat got hot again.. i cant think of anything else that this is directly pointing to so any help would be much appreciated! thanks :mad: :sick: :confuse: