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Comments
Are there airfoils or dams under the front that are broken or missing or not staying in place at speed? These push air through the radiator.
The heater business sounds like an air bubble reached the heater core. If there's air in the heater core, it might not have been properly purged after a radiator refill. Or there might be air getting into the coolant and some got tot he radiator core and that's why there's little heat being taken from the coolant water. The air might be combustion gases from a head gasket leaking. That also would lead to higher pressure from the gases getting into the coolant and the sounds of boiling coolant as the extra air gurgles its way to the pressure cap and is vented by that cap. Warped head?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If you have a problem, it is not clear to me what it is. All Classics run between 200 and 220 (maybe a bit of overstatement). The fans are designed to come on at 227 degrees if the a/c is not running and the coolant level is OK. Changing the PCM is not going to change that.
I worried about my '97 running over 200 degrees for quite a few years. Now I just accept it. If your mechanic is telling you that you have a problem because your Classic runs between 200 and 220 and that is the only symptom, then I suggest he just doen't know Auroras.
I agree with your mechanic that the fans should come on sooner, but I have not seen any evidence of damage. I have owned my Aurora for 7 years and 93,000 miles. It still has the original radiator hoses.
If you want the fans to run all the time, have your mechanic disconnect the coolant level switch in the surge tank. Or install a switch so you can control the fans remotely. The side effect will be a DIC message telling you that your coolant is low.
Les
Overheating can be a real bear to diagnose and cure, since there are many possible causes.
still waiting. I'm convinced it has remote keyless. I could be wrong. the car came a 1996 manual. And progrmming theater lighting is done with a transmitter which I still need to get and get programmed. In the meantime when I get the car the light go off instantly. same getting out. What am I doing wrong.
phil95
still waiting. I'm convinced it has remote keyless. I could be wrong. the car came a 1996 manual. And progrmming theater lighting is done with a transmitter which I still need to get and get programmed. In the meantime when I get in the car the light go off instantly. same getting out. What am I doing wrong.
phil95
I dont know what to do about this any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
It could be the blower motor control module. I am assuming the car has an automatic temperature/fan speed control like Buicks have of the same era. There is an electronic circuit board that replaces the resistor sets that used to give different speeds on manual fan control systems. The control module is in the air box right next to the blower--that air movement keeps it cool so it doesn't burn up. The electronic control module is about 4 inches x 6 inches but only the top end sticks out for the electrical connections. It will be on the airpath box in the engine compartment. I do not know the layout of Auroras.
The failures in Buicks of the same era are that the module can stay on with key turned off so the blower keeps running until battery gives out or they can vary in speed sometimes while being used or they may cut in and out or they fail completely.
The part is dealer or can be bought at Advance Auto store, e.g. People says it's about $100 at Advanced, if I recall correctly.
The part can be tested to see if it's getting power from control inside the car without removing it. Testing to determine what is wrong is necessary to avoid replacing module or blower motor if they're not bad.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Ask them if they are certain it is not just a switch/solenoid. My car was basically fine in first and second gear. As soon as the car reached the RPM level that would switch it into third, it would just slip right out of gear and the engine would rev real high.
The tranny shop that worked on my car is called Danny's Transmissions in Columbia, SC. They apparently have worked on a lot of these cars and were familiar with this behavior. She told me she has never seen an Aurora that had a bad tranny, just bad solenoids/switches.
I learned a few years ago when I had the batteries replaced that one of the benefits of disconnecting the batteries was that it reset the computer and cleared alarms and other false readings, etc.
Try that by lifting the back seat and disconnecting the battery power wire for about 30 seconds.
Re: ABS LIGHT & TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT REMAINS ON '98 AURORA [hammen2] by pizza442 Dec 19, 2005 (11:10 am)
Had this problem a while ago; ended up being the ignition switch in the column. Dealer tech was able to test the switch after testing the security-key deal. He had a good used switch laying around which he hooked up while everything was apart and new for sure it was the ign. switch. Ordered the new part.
My early trouble sign for this was a slight delay in starting when you turned the key.
Jay
Has anyone here looked under their cars (Classic owners) at the fuel rails? Are they rusted or pitted???
Thanks in advance.
Henri
26030594 ignition lock cylinder switch.
It steers nice otherwise and I only hear while going slow and turning from center position to halve radius.
I will be replacing rotors/pads soon so I can look into your suggestions on this. Thanks
paul
You may try a throttle body electronic control module.
Its about a $19.95 at a discount auto parts store (as opposed to $80 at a dealer).
Also it is about a 10 minute repair, if someone (most shade tree mechanics) knows what they are doing.
You should check plugs and wires....are you getting any error codes? I think autozone will read your codes for free if you don't have a reader.
My husband has disconnected the battery and it didn't clear anything. The same messages come up and the engine light is still lit up. I brought the car back to the dealer and they said they had reset the engine light but later that day it reappeared. What am I to do?? What is causing this?
Any advice would be great!!! :confuse:
I've see people mention Cadillac dealers because of the Northstar motor in Auroras. Have you considered that?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I could not locate the battery anywhere under the hood and I started to freak out. Surfing oldsmobile's sites have not helped me at all.......
My computer keeps flashing things about the transmission fluid and coolant but they are both just fine. Do I have to go to the dealer to get it reset?
thanks in advance
Yes, the battery is located under the back seat. I don't like it there, but oh well. I didn't know it was there until after I bought it. I have a 95 also. Didn't think to check. There is lots of wires and stuff associated with the Aurora. It's a pain. I had problems with mine starting. I posted before about the security problem, like the key and stuff. Well, it turns out there was a problem with the ignition switch and some wires under the stearing column.
I've had this car in the shop most of the time since I got it, which was in January, but now I think what they last did might be the trick. *knock knock on wood* I haven't yet had a problem starting it. So my previous posts did not answer the problem.
As for your problem. I have heard that if you unhook the battery for a bit and hook it back up again, the computer will reset. Try that. It may help. If not, it may be a wire problem.
If you have to take it in, tell them to check the back seat first, since that is when the problem started when you lifted the seat and put it back. It may be a pinched wire or a wire got pulled loose, or a grounded wire problem.
I wish you luck. I love this car, but it can be a headache. It gets better when they find the problem. Of course, no car is perfect!!! I've had my share. :sick:
I'm a streetrodder I have '40 Ford Deluxe 350 chevy ,305 turbo hydro ,mustang front end. It has electric windows ,air, all shaved, all eletric doors and trunk. Took many trophys. the reason I mention this is it's normally aspirated and doestn't have 100 miles of wires in it like the Olds. It's a striaght forward custom. that I can't drive in the winter. so I took on the Olds figuring it's halfway to a hotrod with some luxrury I can tool around in. The Olds is Champaige no matter how much I buffed it , it 's still not what you call striking. Plenty of high grade wax but........well it's Champaigne. Anyway it's needs coolant and a battery. and you guys know the tricks.
Don't forget to add a few of the GM pellet sealer to the radiator when you're ready to take a drive after the system's been filled and checked out.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Welcome to the wonderful world of Auroras!
On my '97 there is a round opening (~1.5") to access the radiator petcock. Mine is not aligned closely with the petcock, which makes it difficult to reach. I have used a 19mm socket to turn the petcock. Draining is messy because of the misalignment.
If you google for dex-cool, you will find more than you ever wanted to know. There is a lot of disagreement and misinformation. So far, I believe Havoline and GM. There are others on this board who disagree with me.
Following is my experience: I bought my '97 in 1999 with 37,000 miles. In 2002 at 78,000 I flushed the cooling system with a Prestone cleaner and a tee that claims to reverse flush the system using a water hose. I do not know if Prestone still sells these tees; I've been using mine since 1970s.
Cooling system holds 13 quarts. It's impossible to drain all liquid. After draining the radiator and removing, cleaning, and reconnecting the surge tank, I added 7 qts of Havoline Dex-Cool. I completed the fill with distilled water.
Completely draining the cooling system is a chore I never want to do again. Every year since I have drained about 1 gallon of coolant and replaced with a 55/45 mixture of Dex-Cool and distilled water. My reasoning is that instead of waiting the recommended 5 years and completely draining the system, I am replacing 20+% each year.
I am being conservative by using >50% Dex-Cool, using distilled water, and replacing >20% each year. The incremental cost is quite small and I keep my vehicles for a long time. My odometer is now at 133,000 miles. I'm still running the original pump (I do have a spare in the basement).
Minimum percent Dex-Cool should be 50%. Not just for freeze or boilover protection, but for the additives. Corrosion in an aluminum engine and aluminum radiator can be a serious problem. The information on the side of my Havoline container shows freeze and boiling temps as -34 and 265 degrees F with 15 psi cap for 50% mixture. At 66%, the temps are -84 and 270.
You have the additional problem of green anti-freeze. All the info I have seen is that even a small amount of the green stuff will negate the long-life properties of Dex-Cool. The thing I have not been able to determine is how small is small. I think my procedure of replacing 20+% every year will mitigate this problem.
As someone else posted, be sure to use the walnut shell pellets. They are cylinders about 1.5" in diameter and 0.75" long, tan color. GM sells them as does Bars-Leak (I'd guess Bars-Leak makes both). The fibers seal leaks in the engine. There have been reports that they can clog the heater core, but I do not believe.
I replaced my battery in 2001. The only correct replacement battery I could find was an ACDelco; original battery was 681, replacement 76-84. The battery needs to be vented because of its location under the rear seat. I think that ACDelco no longer makes the 76-84, so I do not know what I will do for next replacement. I have read that some people have used Optima gel electrolyte batteries as replacements.
Hope this helps.
Les
That sticking ring thing should not have been a problem unless you were using 10W40, more specifically Valvoline, and I would have hoped they fixed whatever the problem was.
It is probably the same procedure they used back when this was a prevalent problem for GM and it was a hit and miss thing which if it didn't work required a tear down and new rings.