Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

phil95

I also read it could be the trans linkage needs to be lubed----is this true?
phil

akwebb81

Thought I might have been lucky and gotten rid of the problem, not my luck. One week almost to the minute it wouldn't start again. Last week after this happened, I changed the battery hoping that would help. NOPE. Turn the key and nothing, the clicking from the relay has disappeared, but now there is a noise from under the dash. Security light is on when turning the key, could this be it? Is there easy way to disable the security system? I'm getting frustrated with this car, I've spent more at the repair shop than I have on the car note. :mad:

akwebb81

Started fine this morning...Check engine light is back on. :sick:

pegasusthunder

Hey there everyone.
I just thought I would put in my two cents about the car not starting and the security light is on.
I had this car in so many times with mechanics checking all wires and lots of stuff. Had the problem solved for a bit then it would start up again.
This last time I had it taken in, they happened to check the wires under the steering column. It would start. And with more checking, they found a problem with the ignition switch. Now since they had that replaced, I have no problem starting my car, knock on wood. *knock knock*
So have them check the ignition switch, and do insist on it. My husband told them that that is probably the problem, and they told him they didn't think so. Shows you how much they knew. lol I'm not going to guarantee that is the problem, but all the symptoms you all described sounds just like what I went through. I wish you all luck. I still love my Aurora, even more now that it works great!!! :shades:

stevecrowe

Does anyone know the best way to clean fuel injectors

I'd recommend checking out this product: Injector Cleaning Kit

It's a lot more affordable than the fancy kits but works just as well using the same professional cleaner. ">link title

rcarp

I have a 1998 Aurora. The car has ran fantastic up until yesterday. The car started idling very rough and even rougher when you accelerated and the "Service Engine Soon" came on. I took it to Auto-Zone, where they hooked it up to their diagnostics, and it came by saying "Cylinder Misfire". Does anyone know what I should do and what it should run me. Please Help. By the way, the car has 112,000 miles.

blk97aurora

How many and which cylinders are misfiring? How many misfire counts per cylinder? How old are the spark plugs and wires? Are they ACDelco?

Les

zransom

Hey everyone,
I have a 1999 aurora and it runs smooth as a babys [non-permissible content removed] at low speeds bit after about 50 mph I get a strong vibration. I have heard about having the tires drive force balanced but a GM tech told me it was more likely my tires and thought i would be wasting money having them rebalanced. Any ideas.

blk97aurora

Balancing costs less than new tires. It's a gamble. It is true that Auroras are very sensitive to out-of-balance tires/wheels; the Hunter road force balance machine has done a good job for many Aurorans.

How willing are you to accept the GM tech's opinion? Does he sell tires?

Les

imidazol97

What tires do you have? How many miles on them? How many times have they been rotated using the modified X rotation? When was the last time they were balanced by usual balance methods.

If less than 25000 on tires that might go 60000 and they've been rotated 6-9K miles, then you've a chance of it being fixable. Otherwise if you're sensitive to out-of-balance feelings, start with new, good tires that are round and roll round from the factory. You can't make round tires out of ovals.

Your tech may be telling you he feels the belts in one or more are giving problems or the tires are worn out-or-round from lack of rotations, e.g.

don_ii

I had vibration problems at higher speeds with my 2001 Aurora. I had the tires balanced and rotated with not much difference in the vibration. I even purchased two new tires for the front, as the tire shop guy said the tires were worn bad on the outside edges. Still had the vibration problem. But then one nice day I drove the car with the windows down and I could hear a faint humming noise at higher speeds. My mechanic found that the right front wheel bearing was loose. He replaced the wheel bearing and the vibration problem disappeared. So you might want to have your front wheel bearings checked out.

zransom

I have only had the car for about a week so I dont know the previous owners rotation habits. The tires have about 80% of tread on them. # are Hankooks and the right rear is a mischelin due to a flat i suppose. I have never heard of hankook but they seem to be a decent tire. I am going to investigate the control arm bushings, tie rods, and wheel bearings to see if anything is worn.

akwebb81

Thanks for all the input and info. I took it to the shop again, they checked everything, ckp sensor-good(although when I took it in the check engine light was off-they checked the history and it was related to the ckp sensor so I don't know how "good" it is), starter-good, they did not check the ignition switch supposedly bc of the labor intensiveness. They could not find the culprit this time, said it would be easiest if they could replicate the problem, which they couldn't. I'm going to hope the problem happens close to their shop so that it can be properly diagnosed. When it happens again I'll probably just have the ignition switch replaced...any idea on cost?
Right now it runs fine.

pegasusthunder

Hey there!!
Your symptoms sound like what I was going through. My Aurora is a 1995.

Finally this last time they replace the ignition switch and haven't had a problem since. They also didn't look at the switch till this last time, probably because of the same reason for you.

The cost for me was $200 for the ignition switch and $96 for the labor. Bit pricy but worth it for being able to depend on the car starting.

I really never had the check engine light on during this problem, so I don't know what it could be it except what you may think it is.

I hope this helps you. I know the years are different in our cars, but it's worth a try because the symptom sound the same. It's been about 2 months now since it's been in. No problems starting it. I wish you the best of luck.

asimmons136

I have a 97 aurora with 107k miles on it. Everything works great on it except for when the car is at idle, and there is a heavy load on the electrical system (such as: both heated seats on, rear defogger, auto climate control, head lights, and in drive while idling). When at idle with all this on, the voltage charge steadily drops from its normal 14.5 (when the RPMs are up) down to 13.0 and below. When there is very little load on the electrical system and I am sitting at idle while in drive, the voltage stays at 14.6. Is this a problem with teh battery? The alternator? My "fix" for the moment is to keep left foot on brake while hitting the gas a bit to bring the RPMs up to about 1000.

blk97aurora

Sounds normal to me. At idle speed our alternators cannot supply enough amps to operate all the accesories you mention; I doubt any alternator can. Therefore, the battery supplies some of the current requested, lowering the overall system voltage. As you have found, increasing engine speed increases alternator output.

dr_turbo

My 97 lost the gages on the dash and the driver information display. It works every so often. I checked all fuses and no problem there (since sometimes they work). What could be wrong? What turns all that on? While driving they will all come on unexpectedly. This is driving me crazy. Thanks for any help you can offer.

paul

pilot2001

In recent weeks I've had crankshaft sensors, ECM and gas tank sensors replaced. Next, a check engine light signal indicated a problem with fuel cap. Fixed that problem.

The light is back on. Can Tire mech discovers that Air Pump Fuse Max 30 AP missing..... (GM dealer worked on car last). Can Tire replaces fuel ign and air pump fuses and codes are cleared. car works ok.

24 hours later and the check engine light is back on. IGN Computer engine anayis on day 1 displays 7 codes. On day 2 day (24 hrs later) there are 5 codes : P0102 - Mass Air, P0412 - Air Switching Valve "A", P0418 - Air Pump Relay, P0419 - Secondary Air System, P0443 - Evap Perge Control.

Can Tire said it would cost a bundle to trace down problem. Take it back to original GM dealer.

What is your advice?

Love my car but it's becoming a :lemon:

asimmons136

So, I should not be concerned about the drop in voltage? it will not harm anything? Also, does anyone else encounter this? I would feel better knowing that this is a "normal" feature...

julvestad

I purchased an 02 V8 Aurora in May. Other than changes tires I didn't have any problems for the first couple months. The last few months have been filled with all sorts of issues. I noticed an oil leak. I was told it was the oil pan, it was estimated at about $700 but in the process the stability something was broken along with some bolts and racked the bill up to $1200.

I thought we were done there but when it got colder - couple weeks ago - air bag problem - followed by beeping appearred on my computer screen. It stays on for the 5-10 mile drive to work but typically goes away when I am ready to go home (8 or so hours later). At first I thought the colder it was the more likely the light would be on - but now sometimes it comes on, sometimes it doesn't. It is more likely to do it in the morning - very seldom in the afternoon to late evening. I seen a couple posts on this but it didn't seem like anyone had a message that came and went - I was hoping to get some suggestions. I haven't met many places in my area that commonly work on Aurora's - especially air bags. The local place wants $200 to examine it - to determine the problem - doesn't include fixing. Any thoughts?

Along with the air bag message, a few times lately when I start my car (cold, morning) a low oil pressage message appears for a second but doesn't typically stay on. I have read several post about this occurring while the car has been running in the summer - idling at a stoplight - but it was cold (30 or so degrees) when I get the message. My cars runs from 30-70 when accelerating in town and drops to 10-12 when idling at a stoplight. I was wondering if I should be concerned.

I am also experiencing an occasional light flicker (headlights) for a second or so.

I also have noted that although my voltage runs between 13.9-14.8 volts and doesn't drop. But sometimes the dash, radio and computer lights are bright other times they are dull. This is with the brightness knob - which I check each time - is at the brightest it can go. Sometimes they get instantly brighter when I drive other times they stay dim. Any thoughts?

I also just replaced the back two window regulators $370 each - is there better deals out there? It looks like this a common problem.

I am the second owner, the car has 110,000 on it. I know nothing of the past owner - I bought it from a dealer. I love the car but I am curious if others are experiencing these problems? How they fixed them? Or if sadly it time to trade and look for a better one?

I appreciate any thoughts. I am not a mechanic but I was hoping to get a better feel for what I'm up against.

I also posted this message on http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=597007

JU

thuginthaeast

i've had my 1999 Aurora for about 3 years now and last year my lights acted funny but the problem would only be temporary and would eventually go away . Now i am haveing the same problem but it seems to have become permenent. OK my PROBLEM os that my head light work but my fog lights, dash lights, and taillights don't!! (oh and my brake light do work) i have check all of the fuses that are even remotly related to lighting and i have sat there and played with the headlight switch hoping the lights would start working again but no luck. PLEASE i need some help!!! i am getting kinda nervous driving around with no tail lights....especially since i am on some probationary licence thing for getting too many point >>>this basically means i can't get any tickets at all or i will loose my licence 4 some time!!

I have searched every forum i could find and i have not found any problems like mine to i am hoping that i will get answers by posting this issuse myself.

akwebb81

Ok, let me check to see if I understand correctly...

Headlights--OK
Brakelights work when pressing on the brake--OK

Foglights--NO
Dashlights--NO
Taillights--NO

Correct?

I've not experienced this with the Aurora, however, a few years ago on my Honda Accord the exact same thing happened to me. It was the control switch that you turn the lights on with, ie: the control arm to the left of your steering wheel. I had to replace the entire switch(the whole thing just popped off and I put a new on). I think it cost me about $300 for the unit at a dealer. Mine went out on me on a cross country trip, I got pulled over 4 times in one night for doing 70mph with my hazard lights on...cops were like-why are you doing 70 with your hazards on, fun explaining that 4 times, at least no tickets. Anyway, hope that gives you at least something else to check. Also, check out this site if you haven't already: http://www.aurorah.proboards47.com/
great resource for these cars.

Henry

I took the 95 in to the dealer on Friday. On my way there I stopped at my local mechanic. I told him the car was making a poppomg sound. He listened to it and said the sleve had slipped and that the NorthStar was on its way out and there was not telling when it would go. He sent me up to the delaer for confirmation.

Well as soon as I pulled into the driveway of the dealer all heck broke loose under the hood. It sounded like I had a bunch of marbles banging around the engine (a very ugly sound). Service guy said he will look at it and give me a call.

Given the engine is making the sound my local mechanic said it would eventually make . . . I think the Aurora has died on me at 115,000 miles. That seems young for a NorthStar. But I don't think I will rebuild it and make it better than it was before.

Better . . . stronger . . .faster . . .

I had thought about finally trying to put the 4.6 in the Aurora. But one guy on this forum said the Aurora computer would not recognize the extra displacement.

Even with that being said, I have been a little sad over the thought of losing the car. I bought back in 1997 and still enjoyed drving it. Heck, I started this forum on Edmunds because I liked the car.

But like they said on Star Trek . . . all good things must come to an end.

Henry

The real pain of losing the aROARa is that its replacement will probably be a 1998 Buick LaSaber.

A new car is not in the budget at the current time.

blk97aurora

Henry,

I'm sorry to read of your misfortune, but this is your chance to be a hero! 4.6 all the way. I think that no one on this forum knows whether the PCM will recognize the extra displacement. But you have the performance chip, right? '95 is the only year that can use one.

There's an old saying that as one door closes another opens.

Les

cmccree2000

i know you guys have covered this before but i need a little more info. i recently purchased a 97 aurora. and soon found out it dies after driving for about 30 min. it only dies when stopping. and usually starts right back up. i took a look around and found a vacuum line was not attached to a part mounted on the rear valve cover beside the coil on the passenger side. one line appears to go to the fuel system and the other is unattached, no line i have plugged it with a piece of tape and now the car does not die. my question is where does this line go to. and also i am having a hard time finding the battery. is it mounted under the dash or something. i know i sound like an idiot but please help??

sheeski

I just bought a 97 Aurora with 155K miles. It stalls when idle and sometimes while driving. It will almost always start right back up, sometimes needing one pump of the gas. Sometimes I can drive an hour and it will only stall once I'm in my driveway, other times it will stall every minute (like today!)The only code that showed up was for the oxygen sensor, which was replaced along with the fuel filter and crank sensor. I've been asking everyone and the car has been in to four different shops...what should I do?

blk97aurora

Could be a leaking fuel-pressure regulator. Search the archives for FPR and you will find many posts on the topic.

'97 Auroras have four oxygen sensors.

Les

Henry

I spoke to my mechanic about the swap attempt with the 4.6. He said I should also put it in my budget that I will need a new transmission. He says this because the trans on my aROARa is 12 years old since its a 95.

When I start leaning into the engine it will put a lot more pressure on the trans than the 12 year old 4.0 puts on it. Inside of a year, I will need a new trans. Now I can probably avoid needing a new trans by going easy on the car.

But what's the point of getting a 4.6 and not using it????

blk97aurora

Henry,

The original Turbo-Hydramatic 400 in my '66 Starfire was still shifting strong at 175,000 miles in 1990.

Les

planter

my first request for info. I have a 2003 aurora and have the navigations system. I need to get an upgrade or replacement to the disc to this system. I have already contacted gm nav center and some local dealerships and oldsmobile heritage help center with no joy. Anybody out there have a solution? I would even consider reconfiguring the system with a current version.

edb3

I am having the same problem, lights flash once or twice at random and the black box under the dash clicking above the brake peddle was replace but did not solve. Did you have any luck fixing this?
Please help

benderde

Ironically enough the problem turned out to be the battery needed to be replaced. Good Luck.

mitchgen

Parked 99 Aurora, turned key to LOCK and removed key at night. Opened driver door and got security chime dinging as if key had been left in ignition. Exited and closed door. Headlamps remained on and would not shut off. Re-entered car and set senitinel to MIN position but headlamps would not go off. After not being able to find the headlamp relay or any fuse to pull (aint the smartest auto guy in the world) I finally found the battery and just disconnected the + cable which did shut off the lights. Is this an ignition switch, wiring short, Sentinel switch or some other gremlin? Weekend so no service is available. Any help out there?

brassadonis

Low Oil Pressure warning when at stop lights and stop signs. Never while driving.

Has anyone had this problem and fixed it?

brassadonis

Antenna Stuck,,

I hear my antenna motor working but the antenna will not move. Anyone had this problem and fixed it?

blk97aurora

brass,

I replaced the sender on my '97 and the oil pressure readings at the low end increased about 5 psi.

Your antenna problem: I had this problem with both a 1980 Delta 88 and 1986 Toro. The cable that connects the motor with the antenna breaks. No repair that I could find. Replace.

Because of my bad experience with power antennae and because the one in my Aurora moved up and down when there was no need, I installed a switch in-line with the power lead so I can disable the antenna motor unless I need it.

Les

onelord

The motor is out. Even when they go out they will make a loud humming sound. Unplug it from the trunk area. I had this prob with my olds 98 some yrs ago. Sound like the same prob.

mitchgen

I'll answer my own question. The Aurora cruise control lever has headlight off-on knob on the end of the lever. It has TWO apparent positions - an ON position and a position with an illegible icon. Turning these did NOT fix my headlight problem. Further study showed that this knob actually has THREE positions - 1 is headlight ON, 2 is park light ON, and 3 is unmarked but is an OFF position. This manual override of the headlight system must be set to OFF before the automatic settings will work. Turning to OFF position solved my problem. I read about some others with this shutoff problem so this may help them. :shades:

montebu

My wife's 2002 Aurora, 3.5 liter engine with 26000 miles, stalls. It stalls while she is driving. Sometimes it will stall two or more times on the same trip, and then not stall for a few days in a row. It has never stalled for me, but I don't drive it that much. I read some posts about others having this problem, but it seems the majority of the cars are 95 to 99 models with higher mileage.. They talk about crank position sensors, fuel pressure regulators, fuel pumps, etc, but there doesn't seem to be any one thing that can definitely blamed.
Anyone else having this problem with a 2002?

teamrmk

i have a 95 aurora and there is warm air coming out of vent but the blower isn't working even though the know is lit up. I have checked all the relays and fuses under the back seat (all are good)the fuse on drivers side for hvac blower doesnt have power on either side of the fuse along w/ the fuse right next to it( i think its the fuse that says crank on it. when i hook up 12 volts to the fan/blower the blower works. any ideas?? are there other relays, fuses , modules or anything else??? ty in advance. my email is teamrmk1@aol.com i need help its getting cold, lol :confuse:

brassadonis

Thanks guys, Yea I get a clicking type noise even when I turn the car off as the antenna trys to roll down/up. I disconnected it sometime ago but wanted to get it fixed.

Hope I can replace it myself.

brassadonis

Thanks blk97,

Did you ever get a "low oil pressure" message on your Aurora?

Did you have the pressure tested before replacing sender?

what would I have to do to replace the sender myself?

akwebb81

Well, it had been about a month since my car had died on me, I was hoping it had worked itself out...NO. It left me stranded on Sunday, so after letting it sit for 45mins it started and I took it to my mechanic on Monday AM. THANKFULLY the shop was able to replicate the problem, it was (drum roll please), the STARTER. Aparently it would heat up after a while and not start again until it cooled down. So, car is fixed and (knock on wood) nothing will need fixed again for a LONG while.

tdenice

We have a 2001 Aurora that started to stall about a month after we got it. It had 60,000 miles on it. They told us to replace the crank censor. We have also replaced the fuel pump. air conditioner compressor and another part that was made out of plastic when it should have been made out of something else. I'm beginning to think that the stalling is a manufacturing problem that should have been part of a recall. We've lost faith in any American made cars. This is a 4.0 engine

blk97aurora

brass,

I never got a "low oil pressure" warning. I believe the pressure has to drop below 5 for the warning to appear. The lowest I saw mine at was 7.

I did not have the pressure tested. The readout was >80 at startup on a cold day and there were several posts about the sender being the culprit, so I didn't think testing was necessary. Besides, I haven't found a mechanic I trust except myself :,)

Buy ACDelco replacement for about $30 on-line. It is black and about the size of a roll of quarters. It is located near the oil filter. Remove and replace requires a fairly large open-end wrench; I do not remember the size. Not a difficult job.

Les

montebu

You replaced the crank sensor and fuel pump. Did either one of these stop the car from stalling?

cheeks040

I am interested to see if you ever found anything out about the "air bag problem" light? I bought my 2001 Aurora in March of 2006 and honestly the day after I drove it home, this light came on? It happens randomly, sometimes it will happen like you descibed, then go away? Sometimes it will go away for over a month or two and then come back? It seems that it has been happening more lately? I though it could be from change in temperature, but I dont think thats the case? It seems that when it does it now, its after the car is running for a while and right when I or my passenger will turn on a heated seat or open a window the "ABP" light illuminates instantly? Must be some kind of sensor? One of my best friends is a mechanic, he said it could be some kind of sensor,problem is... pinpointing the sensor is difficult due to Auroras having a ton of sensors. So for now when the light illuminates I just hold the rest button on the DIC.

brassadonis

BLK, Thanks for the reply.

My "low oil pressure" warning light is gone and the chime that goes with it.

You and others were right. My Sender unit had a small leak and they replaced it. 1 & 1/2 hour test drive the PSI never dropped below 8 and That was when idling at a long stop light or intersection.

I spent more than 30 bucks but I did get the AC Delco Part... They over charged me there if it is only 30 bucks but I did get a "Free Oil change" and warranty. Either way I'm sure they could of did it for less. I'm taking my family back home to Pittsburgh for the Holidays and wanted to get this thing fixed for good.

With out the tip to check the sender they would not have done it at the shop. I requested it because of this sites advise. It only took 6 months of questioning them to figure it out.

rocket88man

Still have the '98 Autobahn, now with 148,000 miles. Once in a while the trans will just go into neutral while driving. Let off and back on the gas and all is OK.

This weekend the trans would not shift out of 1st. gear on two occasions. Otherwise, it still runs great. Do '98 have the problem with shift solenoids?

Thanks,

Joe