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Comments
phil
I just thought I would put in my two cents about the car not starting and the security light is on.
I had this car in so many times with mechanics checking all wires and lots of stuff. Had the problem solved for a bit then it would start up again.
This last time I had it taken in, they happened to check the wires under the steering column. It would start. And with more checking, they found a problem with the ignition switch. Now since they had that replaced, I have no problem starting my car, knock on wood. *knock knock*
So have them check the ignition switch, and do insist on it. My husband told them that that is probably the problem, and they told him they didn't think so. Shows you how much they knew. lol I'm not going to guarantee that is the problem, but all the symptoms you all described sounds just like what I went through. I wish you all luck. I still love my Aurora, even more now that it works great!!! :shades:
I'd recommend checking out this product: Injector Cleaning Kit
It's a lot more affordable than the fancy kits but works just as well using the same professional cleaner. ">link title
Les
I have a 1999 aurora and it runs smooth as a babys [non-permissible content removed] at low speeds bit after about 50 mph I get a strong vibration. I have heard about having the tires drive force balanced but a GM tech told me it was more likely my tires and thought i would be wasting money having them rebalanced. Any ideas.
How willing are you to accept the GM tech's opinion? Does he sell tires?
Les
If less than 25000 on tires that might go 60000 and they've been rotated 6-9K miles, then you've a chance of it being fixable. Otherwise if you're sensitive to out-of-balance feelings, start with new, good tires that are round and roll round from the factory. You can't make round tires out of ovals.
Your tech may be telling you he feels the belts in one or more are giving problems or the tires are worn out-or-round from lack of rotations, e.g.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Right now it runs fine.
Your symptoms sound like what I was going through. My Aurora is a 1995.
Finally this last time they replace the ignition switch and haven't had a problem since. They also didn't look at the switch till this last time, probably because of the same reason for you.
The cost for me was $200 for the ignition switch and $96 for the labor. Bit pricy but worth it for being able to depend on the car starting.
I really never had the check engine light on during this problem, so I don't know what it could be it except what you may think it is.
I hope this helps you. I know the years are different in our cars, but it's worth a try because the symptom sound the same. It's been about 2 months now since it's been in. No problems starting it. I wish you the best of luck.
paul
The light is back on. Can Tire mech discovers that Air Pump Fuse Max 30 AP missing..... (GM dealer worked on car last). Can Tire replaces fuel ign and air pump fuses and codes are cleared. car works ok.
24 hours later and the check engine light is back on. IGN Computer engine anayis on day 1 displays 7 codes. On day 2 day (24 hrs later) there are 5 codes : P0102 - Mass Air, P0412 - Air Switching Valve "A", P0418 - Air Pump Relay, P0419 - Secondary Air System, P0443 - Evap Perge Control.
Can Tire said it would cost a bundle to trace down problem. Take it back to original GM dealer.
What is your advice?
Love my car but it's becoming a :lemon:
I thought we were done there but when it got colder - couple weeks ago - air bag problem - followed by beeping appearred on my computer screen. It stays on for the 5-10 mile drive to work but typically goes away when I am ready to go home (8 or so hours later). At first I thought the colder it was the more likely the light would be on - but now sometimes it comes on, sometimes it doesn't. It is more likely to do it in the morning - very seldom in the afternoon to late evening. I seen a couple posts on this but it didn't seem like anyone had a message that came and went - I was hoping to get some suggestions. I haven't met many places in my area that commonly work on Aurora's - especially air bags. The local place wants $200 to examine it - to determine the problem - doesn't include fixing. Any thoughts?
Along with the air bag message, a few times lately when I start my car (cold, morning) a low oil pressage message appears for a second but doesn't typically stay on. I have read several post about this occurring while the car has been running in the summer - idling at a stoplight - but it was cold (30 or so degrees) when I get the message. My cars runs from 30-70 when accelerating in town and drops to 10-12 when idling at a stoplight. I was wondering if I should be concerned.
I am also experiencing an occasional light flicker (headlights) for a second or so.
I also have noted that although my voltage runs between 13.9-14.8 volts and doesn't drop. But sometimes the dash, radio and computer lights are bright other times they are dull. This is with the brightness knob - which I check each time - is at the brightest it can go. Sometimes they get instantly brighter when I drive other times they stay dim. Any thoughts?
I also just replaced the back two window regulators $370 each - is there better deals out there? It looks like this a common problem.
I am the second owner, the car has 110,000 on it. I know nothing of the past owner - I bought it from a dealer. I love the car but I am curious if others are experiencing these problems? How they fixed them? Or if sadly it time to trade and look for a better one?
I appreciate any thoughts. I am not a mechanic but I was hoping to get a better feel for what I'm up against.
I also posted this message on http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=597007
JU
I have searched every forum i could find and i have not found any problems like mine to i am hoping that i will get answers by posting this issuse myself.
Headlights--OK
Brakelights work when pressing on the brake--OK
Foglights--NO
Dashlights--NO
Taillights--NO
Correct?
I've not experienced this with the Aurora, however, a few years ago on my Honda Accord the exact same thing happened to me. It was the control switch that you turn the lights on with, ie: the control arm to the left of your steering wheel. I had to replace the entire switch(the whole thing just popped off and I put a new on). I think it cost me about $300 for the unit at a dealer. Mine went out on me on a cross country trip, I got pulled over 4 times in one night for doing 70mph with my hazard lights on...cops were like-why are you doing 70 with your hazards on, fun explaining that 4 times, at least no tickets. Anyway, hope that gives you at least something else to check. Also, check out this site if you haven't already: http://www.aurorah.proboards47.com/
great resource for these cars.
Well as soon as I pulled into the driveway of the dealer all heck broke loose under the hood. It sounded like I had a bunch of marbles banging around the engine (a very ugly sound). Service guy said he will look at it and give me a call.
Given the engine is making the sound my local mechanic said it would eventually make . . . I think the Aurora has died on me at 115,000 miles. That seems young for a NorthStar. But I don't think I will rebuild it and make it better than it was before.
Better . . . stronger . . .faster . . .
I had thought about finally trying to put the 4.6 in the Aurora. But one guy on this forum said the Aurora computer would not recognize the extra displacement.
Even with that being said, I have been a little sad over the thought of losing the car. I bought back in 1997 and still enjoyed drving it. Heck, I started this forum on Edmunds because I liked the car.
But like they said on Star Trek . . . all good things must come to an end.
A new car is not in the budget at the current time.
I'm sorry to read of your misfortune, but this is your chance to be a hero! 4.6 all the way. I think that no one on this forum knows whether the PCM will recognize the extra displacement. But you have the performance chip, right? '95 is the only year that can use one.
There's an old saying that as one door closes another opens.
Les
'97 Auroras have four oxygen sensors.
Les
When I start leaning into the engine it will put a lot more pressure on the trans than the 12 year old 4.0 puts on it. Inside of a year, I will need a new trans. Now I can probably avoid needing a new trans by going easy on the car.
But what's the point of getting a 4.6 and not using it????
The original Turbo-Hydramatic 400 in my '66 Starfire was still shifting strong at 175,000 miles in 1990.
Les
Please help
Has anyone had this problem and fixed it?
I hear my antenna motor working but the antenna will not move. Anyone had this problem and fixed it?
I replaced the sender on my '97 and the oil pressure readings at the low end increased about 5 psi.
Your antenna problem: I had this problem with both a 1980 Delta 88 and 1986 Toro. The cable that connects the motor with the antenna breaks. No repair that I could find. Replace.
Because of my bad experience with power antennae and because the one in my Aurora moved up and down when there was no need, I installed a switch in-line with the power lead so I can disable the antenna motor unless I need it.
Les
Anyone else having this problem with a 2002?
Hope I can replace it myself.
Did you ever get a "low oil pressure" message on your Aurora?
Did you have the pressure tested before replacing sender?
what would I have to do to replace the sender myself?
I never got a "low oil pressure" warning. I believe the pressure has to drop below 5 for the warning to appear. The lowest I saw mine at was 7.
I did not have the pressure tested. The readout was >80 at startup on a cold day and there were several posts about the sender being the culprit, so I didn't think testing was necessary. Besides, I haven't found a mechanic I trust except myself :,)
Buy ACDelco replacement for about $30 on-line. It is black and about the size of a roll of quarters. It is located near the oil filter. Remove and replace requires a fairly large open-end wrench; I do not remember the size. Not a difficult job.
Les
My "low oil pressure" warning light is gone and the chime that goes with it.
You and others were right. My Sender unit had a small leak and they replaced it. 1 & 1/2 hour test drive the PSI never dropped below 8 and That was when idling at a long stop light or intersection.
I spent more than 30 bucks but I did get the AC Delco Part... They over charged me there if it is only 30 bucks but I did get a "Free Oil change" and warranty. Either way I'm sure they could of did it for less. I'm taking my family back home to Pittsburgh for the Holidays and wanted to get this thing fixed for good.
With out the tip to check the sender they would not have done it at the shop. I requested it because of this sites advise. It only took 6 months of questioning them to figure it out.
This weekend the trans would not shift out of 1st. gear on two occasions. Otherwise, it still runs great. Do '98 have the problem with shift solenoids?
Thanks,
Joe