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markz2kmarkz2k Posts: 112
edited March 2014 in General
Excuse me, but where's the restroom? :)


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Down the Hall, past Warranties, you'll see a sign that says Danger, High Voltage. It's right in there.

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  • markz2kmarkz2k Posts: 112
    OW! That hurt! I'm gonna sue! :)
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    to that too........say 60/40 sound bout right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Nope, you can't. There was a sign on the door.

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  • markz2kmarkz2k Posts: 112
    60/40 is ok with me. Just have to convince the jury the sign didn't matter. (Shouldn't be too tough.) Maybe Edmunds should just settle? Exclusive use of an '02 BMW 330I for 3 years will do.
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    now thaat's a sweet machine.....wifey wants the 328I convert............but yeah, i didn't see a sign either......i think we got em......<;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Next time, no witnesses........

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  • markz2kmarkz2k Posts: 112
    So, do I come down to the LA offices to pickup my 330, or will you deliver? :)

    BMW just did the "Drive to find a cure" (for breast cancer) event out here, I got to drive a 330 (and 325, and X5, and 540, and 530, and 740, and Z3) for 10 miles each. What a blast! Check out for when they'll be in your neighborhood.
  • Has anyone had any success getting Ford/Nissan to pay for replacement of broken exhaust manifold bolts when vehicle is out of warranty? Mechanic told me the heads must be removed to gain access to drill out the broken studs. Are there any other fixes available? Per the NHTSA site "consumer complaints" this is a common problem for this model. Some have had it done 2 or more times.
  • hrvathrvat Posts: 18

    It seems this website is quite different from the last time I was here. Previously, if I wanted to read reviews from the posters here, I would simply go to Nissan (for example) and then click on REVIEWS and it would take me to all of the postings for that specific car and model.

    How do I access this page?
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    Hello and welcome back!

    Did you access the Nissan(or whatever make/model) from the home page? Click on New or Used, choose the make, then model. At the top of the info page for that model, click on Reviews. At the top of the page under the title "Overview", click on "Consumer Ratings & Comments".

    Hope this helps!

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  • My vehicle was not driven for about 4-5 months. When I tried to start it, the battery appeared to be dead -- so I called AAA. They said it wasn't the battery, but the starter. The vehicle was towed to a dealership who called the next day to say it was the battery. But, they needed to perform a complete diagnostic test which required a new battery. Fine -- So they called back 3 hours later to say that the engine had to be replaced because it was locked up. The rebuilt engine is not available so they have to order it new at a cost of $7500.00. I told him to stop working.

    How could they perform any type of diagnostic test if the engine was "locked up". Where else can I go to get the engine replaced, if necessary? or do I want to have this current engine rebuilt?? It is a 5-speed, V-6, 2.5L. It has about 57000 miles on it, excellent maintenance history and no prior problems. Now what???
  • tan7tan7 Posts: 5
    I bought my Audi A4 just two months ago and at 300 miles i already heard some tick sound at the passenger side,i bring the car to the dealer and they told me that it was a suspension bushing. they order the part and after two weeks of waiting for the part finally came. they said they fix it,as soon as I came out of the dealer lot i still heard that tick sound.I called them the following day and they told me that the mechanic test drove it and they dont hear anymore sound.they put more than 50 miles on my car in one day and they dont hear the tick sound. is there any honest dealer in LA I dont want to go back again in KEYES AUDI. I have a bad experience in that place.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    TAN 7----You can get the name of another dealer by calling: 1-800-FOR-AUDI

    MMAKHER--this is a very odd story that doesn't make sense to me as presented. What it sounds like is either a) you stopped driving the car when it started making horrible noises and was ready to seize up or b) you just shut down a normally operating engine and it seized up by itself?

    Possibly this is a mis-diagnosis, in that the starter motor has jammed in the flywheel, and this will keep the engine from turning and of course the starter from operating. I suggest you have the starter removed and then test for a seized engine. This is a proper diagnosis.

    CONTOUR6--if you don't see this subject in the list of our discussion here, start a new discussion on the Villager intake studs and see if someone has had any luck tracking down some sort of "hidden warranty" on this.

    Mr. Shiftright

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  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    i was driving down the highway tonight and i remembered that someone told me to shift to neutral in my automatic Ranger to get better mileage. i wanted to see if there was truth to it so i shifted. well...the gearshift slipped past "N" into REVERSE. the truck made a "wham" noise and acted as if it had hit a bump, in the split second it took me to return to "drive."
    no strange noises since and no problems. i am sure someone, somewhere else, has done this before...any advice? i am under warranty...should i take it into the service department on monday and admit what a retard i am?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Well don't wanna do that.

    You're probably fine. If it didn't break, you're lucky.

    And who is giving you this kind of advice? Shifting a car into neutral is's tough on brakes and you have no power for maneuvers.

    Consider that you got a shocking but not drastic lesson in not listening to well-meaning people who don't know too much about cars.

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  • cacoscacos Posts: 1
    Somebody knows where I can take my old Audi (1987) to repair?. Quality but cheap near Phoenix..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Well, quality and cheap don't often go together, but quality and fair might.

    Gee, I wish you were Bay Area on west here I could hook you up.

    If it's just straightforward work, a VW specialist would feel pretty comfortable with your car, except for the Quattro system perhaps.

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  • Does anyone know where I can find information on how to spot whether a car has had body repair performed on it? Ideally, something showing pictures of telltales signs of structural damage, etc.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Here's a site with a few tips:

    I'll tell you one thing though Jon...if the car was repaired well, you may never be able to tell. Mostly its the bad jobs you can spot.

    Also, you can pay a small fee to, and submit the VIN #, and they will tell you if the car was ever totalled (but they can't tell if it just had a fender bender).

    First thing I look for is overspray...where paint appears on tires, rubber seals, door locks, etc. And a small magnet is a great tool for detecting plastic bondo...but keep in mind of course than many bumpers and rocker panels these days are not metal!

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  • I was wondering if anyone knew how to remove the inside cover on the rear hatch to gain access to remove the rear wiper motor on a 96 Ford Windstar?
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    "Ecology fee" on repair bills? My latest statement included an ecology fee of $9.50. It costs them $9.50 to throw away my old set of plug wires? The addition of this apparent "rip off" discourages me from returning to that shop.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    $9.50? I've heard of small recycling fees, but you know, my feeling is that $9.50 is padding.

    Any reccycling costs should be built into the cost of your doing business.

    Theoretically, only those customers whose cars have committed some toxic waste spill are charged, but you know, I wonder.

    Next thing we'll be seeing this on our Repair Orders:

    Gas: $22.45
    Water: $10.25
    Electricity: $5.55

    I'd scream my bloody head off about that if I were you.

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  • In one topic, someone mentioned a "see all responses" option in the TH (I presume this means I can see all messages, not just 20 at a time).

    For the life of me, I can't see this option. Where is it?
  • tnealtneal Posts: 3
    I recently got a dent in my passenger door. No paint was chipped, and it is not creased. It seems like I can knock it back into place with a rubber mallad. Can someone please tell me how to remove the door panel. The car does not have power windows or power locks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    bancroft---I think they were referring to old software we used to use. I'm not aware of that function currently being in place.

    tneal--most door panels come off like this (but please check with Ford).

    You first take off the armrest (two screws hidden in bottom). They you need to remove the door handle (often there is a hidden screw behind a plastic piece that you pry out, behind the handle), Then you pull the panel's little plastic snaps off (there are a number of them around the entire perimeter of the panel, and you gently pull on the panel until they "pop" out. The snaps remain attached tot he panel. Then you LIFT the panel toward the top of the door.

    Then you will see a plastic sheet that you have to peel off, and you're in. When you are done, be SURE to tape the plastic sheet back on. Very important little item!


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  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    In taking your advice I 'phoned the Service Manager & calmly informed him how I was feeling about the $9.50 misc./removal fee and that for $9.50 I was willing to take the old wire set home and through it out in my own garbage can. I also mentioned I accepted his higher than local labor rate, higher than local sales tax rate, but the Misc./Removal fee just didn't get accepted. He is sending me a check for $9.50 and I Thank You for giving me the push to ask for it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    You had it coming, good for you.

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  • Mr. Shiftright (Nigel is it?), I posted a message previously (maybe I started a new discussion, maybe not) about making my father's '87 Chevy Nova safer, and now I can't find it. It's not listed in my profile. Does this mean no one but you replied, and it was deleted? Thanks in advance for your reply.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    dingo, how long ago was this posted? I'll have a look for it. It may have been archived or deleted.

    If you don't feel the topic was adequately addressed, feel free to create a new topic, or better yet, find an existing topic that is active. You're always more likely to get a response by posting in a more general topic... the more specific the title (year, make, model, problem), the less likely you will be to get an answer as it will appear to be only of interest to those who own or have own an 87 Chevy Nova. Alternatively, you can create a topic with a more general title.

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