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Comments
Mazdamarla you shouldn't penalize your salesperson/dealer for the price increase or the time it took to get your MZ6. Neither were their fault.
Anyway, I was curious as to how you came to decide on the 6i AT. Seeing as how you said you can drive a stick. What influenced your decision?
I'm realize that the production/delivery delay and the price increase are not the dealer's fault - those are Mazda corporate/manufacturing issues. Which is why I also wanted to know if the survey was just regarding your dealer experience, or also included the entire Mazda buying experience as a whole. I really want to let Mazda corporate know what I think about those 2 issues.
akumaz,
I got the 4-cyliner Automatic because of A) I don't like driving a stick. I would periodically drive my husband's old bare-bones Nissan truck for 12 years, and I hated it every time I had to. It's just a pain in the you-know-what, as far as I'm concerned. I'd rather just put it in DRIVE and go.
And yes - I know that $200 is not much in the overall theme of a $23000 vehicle. It's just the principal of the thing. What good is a Purchase Agreement that both parties sign, if the numbers mean nothing??
I phoned Mazda and asked/complained about the price discrepancy, etc. He told me that really, it is up to the dealer's discretion if they choose to sell the vehicle for under S-Plan to me, if they are willing to eat the $190. I'm sure that they're STILL making a healthy profit if they did.
Also - I asked about surveys. The guy told me that EVERY new owner should receive a survey within about a month or so. If you have not, he said to call the 1-800 Mazda number and request one. He said they are an INTEGRAL part of their feedback system. So Cookie, call Mazda and tell them you never got one.
I just test drove a 6s AT the other day and while I was there the salesman tried to tell me that the S-Plan is not available on models with the sport pkg (I do qualify). They will try to tell you that hot sellers do not qualify, but they are wrong. They have to sell anything on the lot to you at the S-Plan price. It says so right on the Ford partner web site and if they don't like it, go to another store if you can.
Fortunately I don't want the sport pkg so that argument was easily ended by my cool headed wife.
I'm really looking for a 6i MT with the ABS/TC, SAB/SAC, and premium packages. What are the odds of finding one of those on a lot? All I've seen so far are 6i's with the premium package only.
So far I've driven a 6i MT and the 6s AT mentioned above. I did not like the AT at all. The V6 is too smooth and powerful to be teamed with a slushbox. To be honest, I think I'll go for the 6i when I can find the right one. It had plenty of power and handled just the same. I feel like I might get myself into too much trouble with the law if I buy a 6s MT.
Marla,
The deal must be reported to program headquarters at the S-plan price. Sure the dealer can report it at S-plan price and eat the difference but why would he if he can turn around and sell it for MSRP. No,the dealer is not making a big profit. It's about $900 or so for that car and this is money that is reimbursed by MNAO. Did you ask the dealer about the stairstep $. What did he say? Your deal as a whole should have gone down by about $300.
As far as selling my car to someone else at MSRP if I cancel, etc. That may be true, however, in this area, the Mazda6 has NOT seemed to have caught on, and the dealership is out in the boonies where it does not get a lot of traffic. At most I have ever seen 4 or 5 Mazda6's on their lot, and they do NOT sell quick. I don't know if they'd be able to sell 'em at MSRP in this market area. Maybe where you are located, but I doubt it here. I've seen the same car sitting at their lot since about April, and it's still there. And that's a manual transmission, too, with sport, yellow, just like mine (except the tranny).
From your post 12504:
"In the event of the Manufacturer shall notify the Dealer of a change in price for the new motor vehicles of the same style and type as the vehicle ordered by this agreement, and prior to delivery of this vehicle ordered by the Purchaser, the Dealer shall have the right to adjust the cash delivered price of the vehicle ordered, only in the amount of the increase. In the event of such change in price, the Purchaser shall have the option of concluding the purchase at the adjusted price OR canceling this agreement. Should the Purchaser elect to cancel this agreement, the Dealer will refund to the Purchaser all amounts previously paid,..."
The same thing that gives you an out gives them an out. What if Mazda raised the dealer's price by $5k, should they have to eat it? You both had a way to protect yourselves.
Kinda like locking in a mortgage rate. Some people get a better rate locking in one day, and the next day the rate might be .5% higher and that's what Person #2 locks in at. If I locked in at 5% and the day I close the rate is down to 4.5%, I sure as heck don't expect the bank to give me the new rate. And vice-versa. If I locked in at 5%, and the day I close it's at 5.625%, the bank doesn't expect me to refinance at the higher rate.
The non-Sport pkg. cars are selling O.K. but the Sport pkg. vehicles are hard to keep in stock and Mazda is not allowing dealers to order more. Even if your dealer is out in the boonies, the internet is a wonderful thing. It can't hurt to ask for them to eat the extra $ but my point is why should they? They will sell the car and make more $ from the deal than they will at S-plan. It's not their fault that the price went up. As I said before they are doing you a BIG favor by giving you the S-plan price on a Sport pkg. car weather you realize it or not.
It's a pain, but it's not the dealer's fault. I'd be upset as well, but if I signed it I'd agree to it. The amount of money isn't trivial. But in the context of a $20K purchase, IMHO, it is.
As for comparing it to mortgage rates, locking in is also a contract and both sides agree to it - same as this. You agreed to allow a higher price if it happened - and it did.
Please remember that S-plan rules state that you are supposed to choose a vehicle from dealer inventory to get S-plan pricing. So what you are asking the dealer to do is lose $190 because they were nice enough to order a car for you in the first place.
Being that the dealer is a franchise, they don't have to sell anything at any price that Mazda dictates. However, if the dealer agrees to honor the terms of the S-plan for A particular vehicle and receive compensation for it, they are bound by the terms.
Seems folks here were able to get replies to their e-mails pretty easily. We'll see.
Marla, I see both your side and the dealer's. DO ask for a trunk net, or better floor mats, or whatever you think might be a good trade. But after how long you've waited for the car, I would just be DEAD to leave the lot without it for $200....
I'm not into haggling with car dealers and you always feel like you're getting screwed in the end. When I started seriously thinking about getting a different car, it was originally going to be a 1- or 2-year old one. Then when I considered a NEW car, I only considered OEMs for which I qualified for a supplier discount. Which basically eliminated Honda, Toyota, Subaru, etc. from the running.
:-(
However I do think that between the wait time, and the price issue, this has soured me from ever ordering a car again.
And, as far as dealers having to supposedly sell you only on-lot inventory cars for S-Plan, I never saw anywhere where that was true in my different dealer dealings. As a matter of fact, the Borgman saleswoman told me that they are MORE likely to honor S-Plan on ordered vehicles rather than inventory stock if it's a popular model.
I'm still confused about this "stair-step" $500 thing that joe was talking about???? I'm going to need a link of something concrete if I have a chance of producing proof of this to the dealer tonight. Something in writing from Mazda stating this discount thing.
I'm really not all that excited anymore that my car is in. It's more like a "when will this ordeal be over?" feeling.
As far as the dealer eating the $190, why should he. He did you a favor by ordering a car. The S-plan price is printed on the invoice. As far as your ordeal, you are the only one making it an ordeal. I posted 6 months ago that the production cycle for Mazda 6s was 90 days.
As a sales manager at a Mazda dealer I post here to try and be helpful. I have learned my lesson. Some customers are just so unreasonable they cannot be helped. As far as your deal, you are getting the best price available on a great car, you should go through with it. Lastly, I am very happy you did not purchase from our dealership.
Another option could be that, you agree to pay the $190 providing that they (dealer) throw in some accessories (worth more than $190 to you).
In the end you have to decide where you stand on your principals, and how much is your time worth to you.
Problems -
- Easy to take the long way home. Excess gas usage.
- Easy to get speeding tickets. Fine + insurance will go up
- Too Easy to overdo it on ramps and curves - the Michelins drift surprisingly easily. Don't have nearly the limits I was used to with my Falken low-rpofile tires on the Protege (Duh!)
As you can tell, only the last is a potential problem. I'll rectify it by switching tires when these wear out. Gonna live with it now (and how - what an understatement. Teh car is still so much fun to drive, even without the 17" Sport Package wheels!)
UNLESS they (and Mazda) promised you (in writing) that your would be ready and delivered on/by a date when the prices happened not to have changed yet (within the same 90-day prouction cycle as the date of your order).
Otherwise, I'd say "Oh, well!" and buy the car for the $190 more without the slightest complaint.
28.5+ mpg at last fillup.
I finally added gas again after getting back from my road trip - the return trip (seeing as I drove on Monday, and there was little or no heavy traffic on the NJTP and 495) was at better, more consistent speeds (70+ to 75, still). I did take a couple of winding alternative routes (Georgetown Pike, anybody? Grin-inducing!) to avoid heavier traffic freeway patches, and added 30-40 miles including a couple of more aggressive car-show-off drives with friends who wanted to ride in the new car. I'm impressed. And bear in mind that my clutching and shifting action have got to have improved as well. So my first couple of tankfuls had possibly imperfect shifting in addition to all that stop-and-go city and freeway traffic to blame. And were still over 25 and 26 respectively.
Oh - and as everyone has pointed out repeatedly, the engine sounds sweeter with every trip, and accelerates smoother
As for your signed contract, please remember it's not just a number. When you signed it, you agreed with everything on that paper, including the price adjustment clause and your right to cancel.
What you should do is, go to the dealer, tell him/her you know about the $500 dealer cash, and you should get this money if you are going to pay the current S-plan price. Of course you can settle down to pay what is stated in your sales agreement and let the dealer make $300 more profit.
Did you ask the dealer about the additional $, they really don't lose anything by giving it to you (it is provided by Mazda and if they audit that deal and find that you did not get the $ they will charge back the dealer for the S-plan $).
Lastly, the dealer most likely didn't realize that Sport pkg. cars would be in such short supply when he agreed to order it. Even if he doesn't sell it close to MSRP he will make more than the S-plan price. Which is why you see these posts from people complaining that dealers won't sell the Sport pkg. cars for S-plan.
This string of posts is not helping anyone so I am finished with going back and forth. I originally replied to your post to shed some light on your situation and to inform you of the additional $500 which should make you happy, I apologize for any inconvenience.
Did it recently become available to the dealer? Or was it available 15 daysa go or so (late June) when I picked mine up?
I am picking my car up tonight. For the $500 back on S-Plan purchases, what specifically should I refer the dealer to in regards to this? Is there a program name or something like that?
Is it part of the S-Plan price on the invoice, or is this something else I should get off? It certainly would help offset my inconveniences.
Thanks
Is there any way for us customers to find out what the program deals are for our regional area?
For example, I live in Michigan. I would like to know what the program says for my area so the dealer does not mess with me. Would I be able to find out from Mazda?
Thanks again for your help.
I have a couple of questions for any of you who may have the MP3 player (or know how it works):
1) Is the MP3 player compatible with the Bose system (i.e. can you get the Bose audio, but just swap out the 6CD)?
2) Does the radio LCD display scroll the names of the directories and songs as they play, or does it show the ID3 tags of the currently playing song?
3) Can anyone comment on the sound quality of the MP3 decoder of that player?
Thanks.
No it's not "TOTALLY WRONG". This was taken directly from the Ford partner web site today:
"New, current model and prior model year vehicles sold in the United States (including Econoline and light trucks through E & F-350 series, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Jaguar, Land Rover, Volvo, and Mazda (S-Plan)) equipped with any regular production optional equipment, may be purchased or leased.
New prior model year vehicles may be purchased or leased from dealer stock only up to the date announced by Ford Motor Company (usually March 31 of the current year).
Ford Motor Company may, at its discretion, exclude certain models from the Partner Recognition Program.
Current excluded vehicles include F-450 through F-750 Super Duty, Mazda RX8, Mazda Speed, E-450, E-550, Aston Martin, 2004 Jaguar XJ Series, Volvo XC90, Volvo S60R and Volvo V70R vehicles. This list of excluded vehicles is subject to change."
FMC may exclude vehicles, not the dealer.
It also states elsewhere that if the dealer participates in the partner program they must sell vehicles to S-Plan customers at the S-Plan price listed on the invoice, if one exists. If the S-Plan is not printed on the invoice, the vehicle is not eligible.
Note that the 6 is not on the list of excluded vehicles above. They also provide a document which states the S-Plan prices of each eligible Mazda vehicle and the individual options. The 6 is on it, the RX-8 is not as of 4/1/2003.
The salesman was wrong in telling me that a 6 with the sport package is not eligible, and so are you for backing him up.
I was partially wrong for saying that all vehicles are eligible. We now know that Ford can exclude them from time to time.
Marla,
When you received your pin #. There should be instructions on the page which state the vehicle must be chosen from dealer inventory. This is to prevent situations like yours from happening. The dealer can elect to order a vehicle if he so desires but he does not have to.
Here is how to use your new PIN:
Step 1: Either print this certificate or write down the PIN number for your records.
Step 2: Visit your local dealer with your PIN and immediately identify yourself as a Partner Recognition participant. Provide your PIN and Social Security Number to verify your eligibility.
Step 3: Provide proof of employment or membership by an eligible Ford Partner through a pay stub, company I.D., business card, W-2, membership letter, membership card, etc.
Step 4: Select your new vehicle.
Step 5: Request vehicle invoice from sales representative to confirm plan price.
Step 6: Discuss financing options.
Step 7: Drive home in your new set of wheels.
That's all it says.
Was also wondering why I would have to provide my SS# to verify eligibility? If I have a PIN, and proof of my employment with a supplier company, etc., why would the dealership or Mazda need my SS#?? And no, I'm not financing anything, so they would not need it for those purposes. Just one more place to have your identity floating around, if you ask me... Just wondered about that.
1) Bose and MP3: I don't have the Bose system, so I can't completely answer this question. For the standard system, we simply swapped out the stock CD unit for the MP3/CD unit; the rest of the audio system was left untouched. I'm assuming that for the Bose system, you would swap out the 6-disc unit for the MP3/CD unit, but the Bose amp, speakers, etc. would still provide "Bose audio".
2) ID3 display: the display (10 characters) will show your choice of information about the current file, and you can scroll through the info choices using the DISP button: Track number/time - file name - folder name - album name (ID3) - track name (ID3) - artist name (ID3). It won't auto-scroll through the various tags; you have to push the DISP button.
However, no matter what info is being displayed (I've found "track name (ID3)" to be my default choice), at the beginning of each track, the track number and time flash on the display for 2 seconds, then reverts back to the selected display.
If anything is longer than 10 characters, the display does not auto-scroll, but turning the TEXT knob will display the rest of the text, up to 30 characters.
Side note: this player only recognizes ID3 V.1, a frustrating point that I discovered the hard way once I ripped and burned an entire MP3 disc using V.2. Oh well.
3) I've been happy with the sound - it's at least as good as my old stereo (JVC KD-SX980). This unit is made by Pioneer (I don't remember the model number right now). One cool thing is that the player supports variable bit rate, and bit rates up to 320 kbps, which definitely helps the sound quality. It sounds great to me!
We decided to install it ourselves, as the closest dealer is over 30 miles away and wanted over $100 for the installation. It took about 2 hours start to finish, and while it was a little nerve-wracking to take apart our brand new car (you have to remove at least 5 major pieces of the interior to get at the stereo), it all went fine. The directions that come with the player aren't fantastic, and are for the British right-hand-drive version (!), but we were able to get it done.
I like the player fine, especially because it works with the existing audio system and fits behind the super-cool accessory panel. It's missing a couple features I really liked from my old system (auto-scrolling long titles once when displayed and other ID3 issues), but hey, I've got MP3 in my brand new 6, so I'm definitely not complaining!
I've got a PDF version of the user's manual for the MP3 player that I can email to anyone who'd like to take a look. Just let me know.
This is a good example of why a buyer SHOULD read every word on a contract before signing it. If you don't understand something ask what it means or check it out. Don't be in a big hurry to get your new car on the road. Take care of doing business, first. Buying a car is a pain because we make it a pain being too anxious. If you took as much time buying, as you do checking out the car when you get it home, you would be much better off.
Reminds me of my first new car: We were $7.00 apart! The dealer wouldn't give me seven dollars more for my trade and I didn't have the extra money. My dad walked in to see how my haggling was going, and I borrowed $7 from him. The dealer was our cousin! Sheesh! I never bought another car from him.
Never do business with family!
fowler3
xplorx4.public@covad.net
:-)
Can you just call your dealer and ask about the $500 now? I see no advantage in going in to the dealer not knowing this first. Who knows - they may just tell you there is a $500 'stairstep program' over the phone. If they say it doesn't exist, THEN you can get upset. Otherwise, it appears you are just putting yourself through ALOT of undue stress.
It would be a terrible shame if you can actually get the car for $300 LESS than what you were expecting, and still have a horrible buying experience.
and
http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=- - - - - offersMain