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How many times I've read that tired old saw: today's engines have much tighter tolerances than they did 20 years ago. Well, if you go to your auto parts store, and pick up a few Haynes manuals, and compare engine tolerances, the truth will set you free. A 1967 VW bug, for example, has bearing clearances every bit as tight as many modern engines. Tighter tolerances are not a reason to extend oil change intervals, either. Quite the opposite. Squeezing old, contaminated oil through a close tolerance surface is likely to be more, not less, damaging to those bearing and journal surfaces.
Manufacturers of automobiles have a vested interest in recommending long change intervals. They want you to wear out that car you're driving, and go to the dealer for a new one.
A 10,000 mile change interval only makes sense if you are indifferent to your car's longevity. Synthetic oil won't help you out, either. It gets contaminated, too, and when it does, all you're doing is pumping those contaminants around your engine. over and over again, in an expensive carrier fluid. Most people change the filter only when the oil is changed, and anybody who thinks an oil filter will still do its job at 10,000 miles is out of touch with reality.
Changing the oil and filter at the 3000 mile interval is the cheapest, best insurance there is for protecting the second most expensive investment you own. The quick oil change industry's motives may be suspect, but they aren't the only ones with ulterior motives. Let the buyer (and the reader) beware of wolves in sheep's clothing.
Given, if your vehicle is new, under warranty and you don't expect to keep it once the warranty expires then by all means change the oil at or before manufacturer recommended mileage because if you have a failure then it's on their dime.
But if you really want to extend the life of your engine (in-warranty or not, but especially if not) , then spend an extra $25 each oil change, get a UOA and adjust your change interval and/or oil choice accordingly.
"But I don't want to spend $25 more! That's a lot of money!"
No, an extra $25 every 3+ months or 3,000+ miles is *not* that expensive. Especially when compared to the cost of unexpected engine repairs and the fact that engine failure never happens at a place and/or time that is convenient.
Don't change your own oil?
Ask whoever changes it to save an ounce or two of the old oil for you. If they refuse, take that as a red flag you need to find some place new because they're probably short-changing you somewhere.
Don't know how to read a UOA?
Go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com to meet helpful people and learn something new. It's good for you.
FE
"In the long run, education and exercise will solve most of your problems. Try it."
(non iridium) replacement.
on the other hand, unless you have an engine light on, nobody thinks to swap out that oxygen sensor that's been running in corn fumes for 130K miles and is now reading out of range, these sensors single handedly have the greatest effect on fuel economy because they directly conlrol the fuel mixture.
I have to agree with this article, too much snake oil advice is being doled out. A simple oil evaluation for your particular car and use will answer your change interval better than all the gurus in auto shops. Blackstone Labs is one, but more can be found by a google search.
I have to agree with this article, too much snake oil advice is being doled out. A simple oil evaluation for your particular car and use will answer your change interval better than all the gurus in auto shops. Blackstone Labs is one, but more can be found by a google search.
I also own a 2012 Hyundai Accent that came factory with 0w20 full synthetic in the crankcase. The owners manual says 8,000 mile maximum intervals between oil changes. Because I drive all highway through a mountainous region I change it around 6,000.
I work in an auto center and I get to see first hand how oil can sludge from going too long between service.
The new cars today CAN go farther because in most cases are fully synthetic. (E.G. GM "dexos") Depending on your driving, you can go 5, 6, up to 8K mile intervals.
It all boils down to what you're driving, how you're driving, where you're driving and the age of what you're driving.
It would be foolish to the owner to make an across the board assumption that money is wasted on frequent oil changes, especially if you don't plan on trading your vehicle in less than 150,000 miles.
The oil monitoring systems on cars these days are not simply based on mileage driven, but HOW you drive your car (which can include the temps reached in the engine).
The faster you accelerate, higher speeds, etc, will affect WHEN YOU ARE TOLD it's time to change (and they'll play it safe somewhat). But 3K miles is ABSURD for any car today.
My car goes 10K to 11K between changes and still runs like new (13 years old now) - fast sports car, and I drive it hard and fast at times. Additionally, I have a 12 year old SUV, change oil every 12K miles...running well too.
I drive a Dodge Durango, that pulls a trailer consistently. Loaded with granite counter tops, thus, lots of weight, stress. Up hills, down hills, etc.
I have over 375,000 miles on this car. I do the same wit the transmission. I had 226,000 miles on it, before it failed.
My record speaks for itself :-)
Bottom line. Know your car.
For my $125K Unimog U500 chassis Mercedes recommends oil changes every 1200 hrs (it takes 30.6 qts of synthetic oil for a 6.37L diesel). That computes to every 42000 miles. The farthest I have actually gone was 21500 miles but the oil had a lot of life left in it.
Charlie
The problem with synthetic oil is this... it breaks down the dirt into smaller particle, however great that sounds, those particles sneak past the filter and become one again on the other side causing sludge. Think about spraying muddy water through a screen onto a sheet and letting the sheet dry. You would see clumps of dirt on the sheet. This forms a grapgite kind of sludge in engines in all the nooks and crannies that are simply not there with frequent oil changes and non synthetic oil.
By the way... the elephant in the room that the press won't talk about because they don't want to lose advertising is how we are ALL being ripped off by high parts prices. why should a relay that runs the wipers cost 600 bucks whne an ipod is 250? Why should abrake caliper be 900 bucks when one another car that does the same function is 150? Why are headlight assemblies 1500 bucks and bumper trim piece 250 each? The integrated radio/gps "command" modules on audis and merceds are upawrads of 10k EACH and cannot be retrofitted because of the fiber opric communication protocols in the cars.
THAT is where the money is going.
Also... road salt is destroying brake lines, fittings and sensors for all of those required abs and traction control systems. and the bumper sensors for your bumper wanring system to "save" your bu,per are 200 bucks EACH and the car has 8 of them. Same foes for Tire proessure monitor systems. the sensors on most cars are 120 bucks each and they break when you change the tires if you look at them sideways.
Oil changes are the tip of a giant iceberg.
(google rusty brake lines chevy trucks)
thinks "NO OIL LEFT" in car She stopped at Jiffy Lube who put in two quarts" emergancy oil " I went back to that Jiffy lube and complained Got a 5$ off coupon guess I won on that time
This is just one of the "non advertised" reasons for putting the 3000 mile reminder sticker on your windshield, as it is not a good idea to expect more than that from the cheap oil that is in your engine.