Stop Changing Your Oil

kbetts1

This article is propaganda you were forced to write by the PTB. We all know you change the oil in your own cars much more often.

Also, what happens to the time element? You know... 3,000 or THREE MONTHS?

Also, what about make up fluids from blow by?

And what about viscosity break down that has been extremely well documented to occur inverse square to oil life.... ie: 50% of the oil's ability to lubricate is gone after as little as 2000 miles of driving?

Lots of problems with this article but the biggest problem is that we take all the risks and once again the greenies cost us money in the long run.

qteskew

As a former ASE Master Auto Tech and Certified Oil analyst the 3,000 mile interval was pushed by the shops and a new car dealer I had worked for to boost frequency of service. I have personally tested extended change intervals on my own vehicles (5) sampling oil over a range of 5k-15k and found that at least the top tier synthetics hold up well. A fellow analyst tested this on an engine he built himself and by just changing the filter and topping off the oil (Mobil 1) every 5k the oil stayed in spec for just over 25k miles. I now work for a power company where our equipment runs 24/7 and all oil changes are done strictly on oil sample condition. Many of the major frieght carriers also regularly sample the oil in their trucks and change strictly on oil condition as well.

huntzinger

I've not read Edmunds in a couple of years, although this article floating back up in a 2012 link prompted me to go find my old password.

As others have pointed out, there's several fallacies in the article which merit comment. In no particular order:

a) Filter technology ... is better today, but still isn't necessarily something that one should trust for very long intervals. Taken in conjunction with newer engine designs with smaller traces for oil circulation, the consumer is at risk of a clogged "oil artery" which can result in a catastrophic engine failure.

b) Engine technology ... engines still burn oil, especially turbocharged ones. By the time that one has driven "X" miles and are now down a quart, it is worth deciding if it is time to drain the other 3 quarts out and reset the system with "100% fresh" or to add a quart and make the system "25% fresh". The real answer depends on how faithful one really is to getting oil changes done, as well as other factors, such as what comes next:

c) Mileage isn't the only metric to use for when to change oil. Time is another factor - - a good rule of thumb is at least annually, for example. And another imporant factor is how far you drive your car...does it get fully warmed up and then driven for another half hour? Short runs result in oil that gets lots of volatile contamination in it which isn't burned off by the engine being brought up - - and held - - at full operating temperature. If you do short runs, you need more frequent oil changes.

Finally, we can all understand that there's environmental pressures to try to reduce "pollution" from used motor oil. Fortunately, these fliuds are recyclable - - and do get recycled - - and this expense is utterly insignificant in comparison to the lifecycle costs of an automobile, which currently is nearly $30K in initial purchase price, plus another $10K in gasoline (50K miles) and plus another $5K in insurance (5 years), etc, etc.

-hh

donaldb1

Most engine breakdowns are from fluid issues. It's true that synthetic fluids will last longer than regular but synthetics are more expensive and most people that don't change fluids regularly want to use the cheap stuff to save money. I have 205,000 miles on my 2000 Dodge Caravan and it still runs like new and never had a new transmission. Of course, I change the oil every 3,000 and trans flush every 30,000, radiator every 15,000 with distilled water if the fluid calls for water.

chiweiho

Both my toyo truck (9000+) and honda motorcycle (3000+) was in need of an oil change. Both 100% syn oil smelled burnt after draining. I normally change the truck between 5K-6K and moto at 2K. The wet clutch on the moto stated to slip, the shifter was jumping between gears.

With that said, change your oil often and on time. 2x miles with syn, but still need to keep up with the routine.

Moto has to be changed every 2K because of the high RPM placed on the motor. She will tell you by the clutch slipping when you most need it.

Yes, it goes without saying, Oil and air filter! everyone should know how to change their oil.

steven1204

You got ripped off paying $92 for an oil change.

darkfox

Well, until my warranty says otherwise, I'll keep changing at the recommended period.

windsailor

Three thousand mile oil changes is total bunk. I regularly have my changed oil analyzed and continually find that I can go farther than this recommendation. As long as the additives are not depleted, there is no purpose in changing the oil. With a good oil filter in your car, the additives are the only relevant yardstick. Mine continually show that 8,000 to 10,000 miles are a realistic interval.

This data is, incidentally, from a $120,000 Porsche, not exactly the car you want to have an engine failure.

Strange, the cooling system had 100,000 miles but the engine failed at 74,000 miles......sounds like the radiator was faster than the engine!
Engines don't "seize" because of excess wear caused by infrequent oil changes, they seize for a myriad list of reasons and in the absence of failure analysis anything can be the cause.

lupy

My 2010 Forester Turbo manual tells me to change it every 3750 miles to the fact that a turbo is considered extreme driving. My dealership charges normally $55+tax for an oil change. Here is my problem...one mechanic puts the sticker on the window and states the next oil change is at 3000 miles and another mechanic puts the sticker on the window and the next change is at 3750 miles. Also, they over fill the oil. The manual claims 4.5 quarts max, the shop puts in and charges me for 5 quarts. Oil is always over the fill line. I know I should stop going to them, but I have an extended warranty till 100,000 miles and it is hard to prove an oil change by yourself or another shop and that might void the warranty. But, all of that is okay...right? Can't let the Government do anything about it because people would get a bent out of shape.

rosewelltoken

My uncle could pinch a penny better than Jack Benny yet he would change the oil before every race!

Misleading articles like the above rot only further the reliance on ignorance to prop up needless consumerism with religious passion.

Yes, of course it's not all lies, new cars are strong and wonderful, but keeping fresh clean fluids in them makes them even better!

If the Dr. Evil & mini me of the "Buy a new Car Often" Cartel knew how often I change the fluids in my 26 year old Toyota, well, I just don't know what would become of me. So mum's the word, n'est pas?

Years ago I did an experiment, I bought an old junker for $250 from a friend(it was his mothers car and had been sitting way too long), I did nothing but change the oil like a nut every month (the local auto shops were having a price war ( as low as $9.96 w/coupon from Sunday paper), after about 10 months the car was running so much better I sold it for $1800!

Other than rust, deer and telephone poles , old dirty fluids lead to the demise of many otherwise perfectly fine functional vehicles.

rickdog7

To each his own but my rule of thumb is to change the oil when it becomes dirty. After the oil becomes so dirty it can no longer absorb any more dirt and deposits start forming inside the engine. Once the deposits start forming is when the problems begin. Some engines out there have only small sump areas in the oil pan and when these start to collect sludge it is only a matter of time before oil pressure starts to disappear because of a clogged screen on the oil pump pickup. This may be an extreme case but it happens as there are a lot of people that never change their oil.
I have a 95 Jeep GC and the previous and original owner had it serviced faithfully at the stealership and now with 160000 and with synthetic oil and it doesn't even start to get dirty until the 7000 mile mark. But on the other hand I also have a 65 VW Beetle that runs mineral based oil that is dirty at 1500 miles. I know nothing about the previous history of its' service but I am not about to let it get much more than 2500 miles before giving it a change. For me changing oil when it gets dirty is the only way I know of to be assured that I am not "throwing away" useful oil and also that I am not leaving the oil in too long leading to problems down the road. This crap about changing oil at a certain mileage is just that, crap. These oil monitoring systems could prove to be one of the best things new cars have on them if they work the way they are intended. I can imagine there are a lot of people don't even know what oil looks like so this would be good for them. There are just way too many variables to say every engine needs an oil change at a certain mileage.

mladd

In 1992, I bought a new Ford Escort, put in synthetic oil, and a bypass oil filter, and drove the car 19.5 years without changing the oil. I have a Toyota pickup with 345000 miles and change the oil once a year (or 14 months sometimes). I use synthetic oil. No engine problems here.

matt165

I owned a '89 Olds Cierra bought it w/ 10k miles, sold it with 278k it still ran great. I never had to work n the engine or tranmission. My secret was oil changes very 5000 mi with Walmart house brand oil (Tech 2000?). Both my cars now have oil monitoring. The change interval is somewhere in the 6000-7000 mi range depending. They both have over 100k miles and no issues. Because of the longer interval between changes, I do use a quality filter (I like Wix). I think the people are posting about engine troubles that are not simply oil related. I always follow the recommended oil change guidance in the user manual, routine service.

pingpong28

This article is correct concerning the lubricants we use today. Many of them continue to perform well beyond 3,000 miles. Howerer, while oil technology has been leaping forward, oil filter technology has barely moved. Today's oil filters are the same as the ones our fathers and grandfathers used. Perforated cardboard inside a stamped metal canister. They don't have the longevity of today's oil. At the most, I would push the oil change interval to 5,000 miles for gasoline engines, and 7,500 for diesel engines.

gozma

95% of daily drivers do not experience Anything close to "Extreme conditions". 10k mi changes are totally viable for any ICE vehicle.
Keep a clean air filter, and it will insure that 10k mi even more. E10, Or 90%Gasoline/10% Ethenal burns cleaner, Reducing carbon build up"gunk" in the long run.

A good rule of thumb, If its a used car, and you have no clue about its previous care. 3k mi intervals are just fine, after you own the vehicle for a period time until satisfied, safe to go longer.
OR
Carbureted(dirty engines), or older "Oil Crisis" built vehicles, stick with Conventional oils, and closer intervals. Less tolerant engines tend to be more friendly with thicker Conventional lubes..

Some Synthetic oils in older engines, tend to be on the lighter side of the engines harsh nature(sometimes produce knocking). Some of which even with the proper weight/viscosity still tend to wear down, and dirty faster. Compared to a newer engine. In this case, switching from conventional to synthetic, wont see any performance/life gains of your oil or engine.

Turbo's respend well, to lighter synthetic oils Which are usually found on higher performing engines anyways... Faster circulation(heat dissipation) through the oil. and reduced resistance of spooling for better performance.
Superchargers usually have a medium viscous oil20w-30w(synthetic prefferably) with intervals ranging from 30k mi"performance" to 80k mi"daily driver" condition intervals.

5bikes, and 7cars later, all had there own schedule. 1500-4000mi for bikes, and 6500-12,000 for the cars avg.

grampafox

I have 214,000 miles on my 2004 Toyota Highlander with absolutely no issues. I've had the oil changed maybe 15 times. I have never been able to find any research that was done to come up with the 3,000 mile figure, and was told by my father a service station owner from 1946 to 1966, that the number was "made up" by the SAE. I'd be interested in seeing any research anyone can point to that substantiates the 3000 number other than anecdotal evidence.

bigpoppabass

My wife read stories like this and almost toasted the engine on her vehicle by going past 3k in mileage for an oil change. Be careful and check your manual. She has an 07 Toyota Camry, and we were suprised to learn via the manual that this model regularly consumes oil. Manual recommends checks at every 600 miles, no kidding, still can't believe I didn't know about this.

wmiranda

I would personally state that the issue is not with oil, in the case of the individual with the 2000 S10... but with the vehicle itself. I have a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser with 311k miles and never anything more than an oild change at 7500-10000 miles. Ever. Since New. I go out on the morning s I use it and turn the key and it starts.. does not burn oil and chugs along happily.

My 1996 BMW M3, 148k,.. Oil changed at an average of 8k. No issues... My e320.. gets changed at 12-15k... with 201k miles and no issues.

No one is "NUTZ" iff they don't follow your instructions.. to each his own but I wonder how long you have felt that everyone that doesn't think like you is "NUTZ"?

joyer

Have been using synthetics for 25 years. Changing oil as practiced by most is basically a waste of resources. No need to justify your wasted actions. Just stop doing it. 3,000 miles is an abomination.

bob252

An excellent gathering of all and any information that any uninformed person who drives any kind of TODAYs car and are concerned about their investment and the proper maintainence of it.
I only have one comment, and that is to NOT peel that sticker off, after you have read all of this..use it for the next 2000 miles (for at least most cases) and read your owners manual for the appropriate interval, it may be even more than the 2000 miles.
Good job to those reeporting all of this and their research and providing information to all of this.

beyondallhope

Oil does break down thru contamination etc. so it is best to open the oil drain a little bit so that it drips oil out. then you just add oil when it gets low.

patriot3636

I've worked in and around the car and gas/oil industry. I learned an emense amount of information abou motor oil. This story is totally untrue. I will even ad, that if yu follow this article, ask if Edmunds will pay for your repair costs. Oilhas many, many additives added to it, for things, such as detergents and cleaners. Regardlessof of hat tis article says... Oil breaks down, as it is used. The mor ol breaks down, he faster it degrades, till it no longer does what it wha was designed to do. At that point it starts to turn to sludge and gunk up. People who fail to change oil, will suffer an engine failure. When you tear that engine dow, ou will see what neglected oil does to an engine.

unf0rg1v3n2

I learned about this in the early 90's while living in Germany. They had shifted to full synthetic oils and the recommended interval then was 15k km or about 9k miles. I came back from Germany with a 95 Audi 90 that had used nothing but Mobil1 changed the oil every 15k miles and had 360k miles on it when the engine blew due to a failed thermostat. Pulled the engine and all internal parts were clean. I've used nothing but Mobil1 15k oil in all my vehicles since the 90's and have put 200k on 2 honda civics and several other cars and never had a lubrication issue. The 3k mile service change can actually hurt some European and Asian vehicles, especially the turbo engines because they call for synthetic and when dino oil is used they gunk and destroy the engines and turbos. Best advice is learn about your vehicle and the type of oil it needs If it doesn't specifically call for synthetic make the switch and extend your change interval you will save a lot of money and extend the life of your vehicle.

unf0rg1v3n2

Sludge issues are actually caused by the 3k mile oil change using traditional oil instead of synthetic in cars that call for it will cause sludge and ruin these engines.

beyondallhope

I drive a 1981 vw jetta diesel and I change oil regularly every 8 years because diesel engines are hard on oil. The engine never breaks down, runs like a clock. I am sure it is because I use castrol 20-50 oil and change the oil filter along with the oil religiously about every 100,000 miles. Merry Xmas all.

sdages

this may or may not be true for newer cars, i have no idea. i drive a 30 year old volvo, and i change the oil every 3 months. i don't know how many miles that is because the odometer quit working several years ago. as i only drive it to work and back, the oil probably gets changed well before 3,000 miles. i will keep doing this for as long as i have this car. i plan to have it for another 30 years.

porterhoss

propane cars never need oil changes, and can go a million miles,what you think of that

shirish

All right. lets understand one thing.

Oil changes, to an extent, determine engine life. So if you never change the oil, your engine will go kaput after so many miles. if you change the oil every day - just saying - your engine is unlikely to go kaput because of poor oil.

Somewhere in between, there is a balance between engine life and oil change frequency, other things being the same.

If I want my engine to go, say, only 50,000 miles, can I change oil once, at 25K, and leave it at that?

How about if I want it to go 250,000 miles?

Point is, if I change my oil according to the manual, how long will my engine last? If I change it half as often, how long? If I change it twice as often?

Without correlating engine life to oil change frequency, it makes little sense to say that it makes no difference whether you change oil at 7500 miles or 3000 miles.

lutherpc

3000-5000 miles is max depending on your oil type.

VVT screens in Hondas,Subaru turbo cars, and gm cars plug up often.
We see people who let maintenance go a long way and they have all sorts of variable valve timing issues. Mostly related to lack of oil changes.
Some vehicles that use 0w-20 or 5w-20 oils also tend to "use" a lot more oil per 1000 miles that others that use heavier oil.
Most people are don't check their oil often so most of the time they're running low.
Also love trying to change spark plugs that have been in for 100k miles in some vehicles!!!

dave_eddleman

Yep. Some Lib reporter wanting to "save the Planet" at the price of a $1800 engine to you100k miles early.

Sythetic will not break down, and theoretically, it could go 10k miles, however, your oil filter can't comfortably go that. Micro metal shavings will be slipping through and those will create more micrometal shavings in you engines moving parts. The increase is exponetial, not linear. And a pluging of the filter restricts the lubrication. At least change your filter every 5k.

I will continue to do every 3k for conventional. I did this with a 98 taurus I bought in new and sold it in 2008. Got the same mileage as the day I bought it when I sold it with 260k miles. Wear increases exponentially because worn high-stress parts slap harder and vibrate, creating friction.

And I wonder if the writer is aware that all oil is recycled these days.

ariznc

I have used Amsoil for 8 yrs in 4 cars/suv. The drain interval is 25k. Yes 25k. You have to use their filter. I have let my wife's car go over 2 yrs before I changed the oil because 25k had not passed. You are supposed to change Amsoil every year or 25K whichever comes first. I wait until 25k. I drive over 20k per year. I keep an eye on the oil and it's level. Have never had a problem. Amsoil has other oils that are meant to be changed sooner, but I like their 25k oil. It is the best and this story is no b.s.

doityurslfer60

I have always been a firm believer of the "oil" is the life of the engine. That's why I have always changed my conventional oil and filter every 3,000 miles myself in all the cars I've owned. With the new Synthetic oils I feel comfortable delaying my oil change intervals with filter to 15,000 miles as my dealer recommends in my hybrid car. My truck however uses a recommended synthetic blend that I don't feel comfortable allowing to go past 4,000 or 5.000 miles. Thank you for this very informative article. I do feel oil research and improvements have changed dramatically.

gtv6

I do 99% of all the work on my vehicles. First of all I don't find the advice given by a quick oil change place to hold much merit since there are mostly young inexperienced people working there. Oil contamination not just heat has a lot to do with the life of oil and that varies by the age of the vehicle and the environment it's driven in. My owner's manual for my 2002 vehicle says 3000 and 7500 mile service intervals. I'll change it somewhere between the two depending on the condition of the oil and the weather outside. I have two other vehicles (2004 and 2005)with indicators that I change when the message comes on has averaged about 6000 miles. When you change the oil you remove the contaminants from the engine reducing wear. The best thing is to read the owner's manual and actually check your oil's condition between oil changes. Or as the saying goes, more money from the mindless.

jiffy1

It is not the "Oil" it is the "FILTER" which catches the dirt in the Oil

change the "Filter" top the oil good to go!

mohg

I've been performing my engine oil changes using synthetic; have used Castrol,, Pennzoil. Currently using Mobil 1 and Kendall. I use oil change intervals of anywhere from 5k-8k between changes.

I've experienced the ollowing results:
- 84 VW Jetta GLI went nearly 198k miles; transmission died, so I go rid of it.
- 95 Saturn SL2 went 188k before the head gasket failed.
- 2000 Xterra (4WD V-6) went 150k before being traded in for a larger SUV. It still ran like new.
- 2003 G35 has 165k on it and runs great.
- 2008 Sequoia has 90k and runs like new.

I do not, typically, operate in severe conditions, but at times. I am by no means or strectch of the imagination an environmentalist; which many of them, I believe, fall in to the enviro-wacko category.

telsa_

I purchased a low mileage BMW whose previous owner went 15k between changes, like BMW states. The lifters rattled on start up with only 37k. I used the same synthetic oil BMW recommended,
but started changing oil and filter every 5-6k and now at 49k, no more rattles!

vendetta

@shepperd

You truck needed a new engine because it was a POS Chevrolet.

I have been in the Quality Assurance now for 7 years.

All data shows that GM, Ford, and Chrysler brands as well as their sub brands have dramatically inferior drive trains.

Altho

thecardoc3_

@vendetta

Source Mitchell On Demand. Engine specifications.

Honda Accord 2007

0.020---0.040 mm (0.0008---0.0016 in.)

0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

2007 Chevrolet Cobalt

•Piston - Piston To Bore Clearance

0.010-0.041 mm

0.0004-0.0016

tglewis

The quality of your oil filter makes a big difference, as well. It's been years since Fram made a good quality filter; their material content, and lack thereof, make them an extremely poor choice.

One top-notch filter, as evidenced by cutting it open and examining it, is the Baldwin (no, I don't own stock--I just buy their filters by the case), made in Nebraska.

Another nice touch for a motor is the oil additive SFR, made in Montana. I've seen it work firsthand and for "boundry" lubrication--that very last layer of molecules between metal-to-metal contact--it is excellent insurance if your motor "uses" a bit of oil, and it's great for start-up protection.

chris984

This article is a why people spend more money on there vehicle in the long run. Piss and moan about how the dealership are a ripoff. Let say you have a 2000 buick century with 100,000 + miles on it, you buy this amazing 7500 internal oil, but this vehicle has worn piston rings and oil is getting pass the rings causing vehicle to burn oil. So your promised that you don't have to change your oil for 7500, don't check your oil levels and destroy a set of rod bearings, crank or other major engine components. Costing you thousand and thousand of dollars. DUE TO DUMB [non-permissible content removed] ARTICLE LIKE THIS!!!! I'm ASE certified technician that works for a big 3 dealership, we aren't crooks, we are simply trying to prevent huge expenses in the long run FOR THE CUSTOMERS!! So continue trying to cheat the maintains, and this be mad at use when we pretty much tell you told you so!!

hoochbear

OK. 3,000-4,000 miles. I'll take my stand. Pick a good power train and engine combo. 1972 Cutlass, purchased new. 350 Rocket V-8, The real McCoy. No substituted Chevy or Buick block. 260,000 miles through 1995. But for incompetence of a half-baked repair shop, which failed to tighten the lower radiator hose, it would no doubt still be running. Awaiting restoration. Oil of choice when possible--Valvoline. 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer. 4 Liter I6. 4x4. Purchased at 120,000 miles. 1 injector set replacement. 1 auto trans rebuild. Finally retired at 210,000, still running but with head job, A/C, other repairs needed. Still got $1,000 for. Oil and filter of choice--NAPA (Valvoline) and NAPA gold filter.
2000 Jeep Cherokee limited. 4 L I6. 243 ci, another good old cast iron Rambler-based block with fuel injection again, of course. Purchased at 65,000 miles in 2003 from fleet user. Oil and filter of choice--NAPA (Valvoline) and NAPA gold filter. Did have head/rebuild because of overheating. Even though it was pumping water through the engine Suspected 1st overheating from failure of oil pressure sensor, hot soak, and failure to detect less consequential causes of previous led 2nd overheating hot day, etc. Currently 185,000 miles. Regular, 3,000-4,000 mile oil changes. Most driving in past year in-city. 656,000 miles. So far 3 vehicles averaged 218,000 miles. Choose wisely, my friends, take care of your vehicle and it will take care of you.

hoochbear

Bottom line is...recently for my 2000 Jeep Cherokee, spending around $18 for Napa oil on sale, $8 for gold filter changed every time. Provided to 1 of 2 reliable shops. About $12 for labor and disposal fee $38 total. 12,000-16,000 miles per year, usually 4 changes annually, $152 year. Watch oil consumption and if not replacing more than about 1/2 qt (maybe even less) between changes, you got a winner. $152 a year. Cheap. You couldn't get 7 deluxe car washes for that.
Merry Christmas!

hoochbear

Dont ever trust your car to any greasemonkey!

oldecaptnemo

This story is a dangerous joke. While oil has improved, it is quickly altered by engine performance and stress. That fact that you even mention those fools at "Jiffy Lube" decredits your entire piece. See Google "Jiffy Lube Sucks" for a big wake up call. No, got a new car or truck? Do not want trouble? Pull the oil at 2000 miles on the first oil change and at 3500 miles there after. If you are towing a trailer, dump it at 2500 mil. Change the filter each time as well. Stay away from full synthetic. Use dino or partially synthetic as this is far superior or all gaskets to properly seal. AND DO IT YOURSELF! Edmunds... I'll do it my way... and you do it your way. Lets see who is still driving the same vehicle with the same level of service visits... Driving with dirty dark smelly old worn out oil is just plain stupid. No thanks!

todd82ta

I agree, mostly... but it's not the oil that needs to be changed, but the oil filter. Your oil collects contaminants, and if you're the kind of person that wants to keep your car for a LONG LONG time... you want your oil to be clean. I keep my oil for 5,000-6,000 miles... but I ALWAYS change my oil filter every 3,000 miles.

oilguy90

This has got to be one of the most insane articles i have read in a while. I am not going to bash the writers of it because i would probably have a comment too long for anyone to bother reading. I have been in the oil/lube business for many years now and i am just going to help readers out with a little guideline to follow:

conventional oil- 3000-5000 miles*

full synthetic- 5000-10000 miles*

synthetic blend- 3000-6000 miles*

high mileage- 3000-5000 miles*

*The distance you go on your oil change should depend on a few factors such as how much your car may burn oil between oil changes, any leaks the motor has, and the style of driving you do between the oil changes. Just remember, the more you change the oil, the better it is for the car.

unlicensdremel

Yet people will still believe this nonsense, along with pure-D horsehockey like needing a new toothbrush every 6 months and new mattress every 8 years...complete scams made up by the industry and heavily promoted.

homerly

Your piece on Conventional vs. synthetic oil is very disappointing. Where is the information about synthetic's real value in how it lasts and how it performs in a car engine? Do you explain why it lasts much longer under the stresses of today's winter and summer demands? The answer is a resounding 'no' to these and other important questions. Edmunds has dropped the ball here as an expert automobile primary source of valuable information for a serious reader and fan!

homerly

Your article and explanations are especially lacking in the area of explaining advantages of synthetic oil. Synthetic oil has special chemical qualities under the stresses of summer and winter driving though winter starts is its true strength! Why Edmunds has left this out is a mystery. Hopefully you will do a meaninful followup?

georgehilbert

When my oil starts to get too much towards black, I'm changing it no matter what any deskjockey article writer says.