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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • puglover1puglover1 Posts: 5
    The repair facility told me that they tried to get Subaru to replace the panel under the exhaust but they refused to do it. Subaru has been less than helpful in a situation evolving from a failure of their product at only 7,700 miles.
  • kat95kat95 Posts: 49
    Again, I'm really sorry to hear about your transmission. Were there any symptoms prior to the failure? I ask because I also have an 05 i, auto. I wonder if this is an isolated case or can owners expect this to happen to their vehicles. Makes you wonder.
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    Sorry to hear about your problem. Was wondering if it would be worth it to replace the panel out of your own pocket - if the dealer would discount the parts and/or labor?

    Certainly not an ideal situation, but if you're going to be stuck with that burning odor for any length of time might be cost effective at a personal comfort level.

    There were a couple of times Mercury denied parts that the dealer offered me a large discount to go ahead and replace out of pocket.

    Again not perfect, but ?

  • gpsmangpsman Posts: 1
    I just had a diagnostic on A/C done at Subaru dealer on my 2000 Outback, and now the parking lights are staying on all the time. The A/C problem was just a relay (which they ordered for me), but the fog lamps use the same type, so I switched the two while waiting. The parking lights were on before I did that, but I'm not sure when it started--sometime after I brought it home.

    Any ideas?
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    There's a switch on the steering wheel column.
    If the bright red bar is showing, the parking light is ON.
    Just flip it :)

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Welcome to the club, you are now an official member and know our secret handshake.

    Happened to me the first time I detailed the interior. Freaked me out. :-)

  • johnpawjohnpaw Posts: 2
    The Hidden Hitch wiring harness hook-up kit worked very well for my 03 Outback Wagon. Only problem I had was finding the 6 prong female electrical plug. This forum provided the answer .... you must remove the carpet and insulation adjacent to the right rear quarted panel .... then reach down into the sidewall to get the plug.
  • ehaflichehaflich Posts: 2
    I have been reading with interest the solutions for the gusset noise. My 2002 Outback has this problem and I would like to purchase the gussets described. My question is where? There was a note in the craig.hunter/gusset discussion that these can be purchased on-line. Can someone provide something more definitive? Help would be greatly appreciated!

  • ehaflichehaflich Posts: 2
    My 2002 Outback has the clutch shutters during the initial driving after being parked for a while. It improves when the engine warms up. My question: what is the TSB you are refering to? Can you please give more details so I can approach my dealer with more facts?

    Thanks, Eileen
  • mmullinmmullin Posts: 10
    A problem with our 2000 Outback today. Engine starts and runs fine until I let off the gas , then the engine dies. Starts again, drives fine, let off the gas to turn, etc. and the engine quits again. Any ideas? Thanks
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,385
    Try here for the parts: > collision catalog > front door > door and components > corner reinf >___...then click on "view illus" to be sure you have the right part.

    Good Hunting!

  • carsareuscarsareus Posts: 10
    I have a 98 outback, and I only have two problems with it

    Firstly, they put no money into the doors of this car. One can feel the window moving up and down through the thin plastic of the door. And there is always a distinst rattling nosie that plagues the front doors upon closing

    Secondly, The check engine light constantly goes one and off.
    This is something of much concern, because the car is in mint condition. If anybody else has these problems speak up!!!

    Do any newer models have these problems?
    they don't state any problems on
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    There was a year, I think around 2002, where they re-programmed the ECUs to have fewer CELs. We still hear of some but not as often as back then.

    The windows are still framless, they'll rattle if you slam the door with the windows half open. But crash tests prove they're sturdy, so that's just a characteristic.

    The B9 Tribeca has full window frames, plus equipped like an Outback VDC it's actually $1200 cheaper, check those out.

  • whampa65whampa65 Posts: 36
    I purchased a 2005 Legacy LGT around three weeks ago and on my way to work yesterday the LCD display went out on my radio and wouldn't come back on. I called the dealership where I bought the car and they said they've never heard of any problems with the Lcds on the radio. Hopefully this is just a fluke and it can be resolved.
  • rob_mrob_m Somewhere North of BostonPosts: 813
    There have been a few reports of this happening on the legacygt site. Usually, turning the car off and back on resolves the issue. Also, it seems to happen just once. I believe there was one issue of the ACC going out. That called for replacement of the unit. Good Luck! Rob M.
  • From my online searching, it appears that warped rotors happen fairly often on 2000-2002 Outbacks. Mine started warping at about 36k. My questions are: How long does turning the rotors solve the problem? Should I just go ahead and replace the rotors? And if so, is there an after-market rotor that would last longer and solve the problem? TIA
  • pathungpathung Posts: 2

    I just purchased my GT wagon two weeks ago, and have been plagued with a rattle that seemingly comes from behind/under the instrument panel. The rattle is heard at between 3,000 and 3,500 rpm, typically induced while the car's accelerating. It rattles less in the mornings, when the car's fresh on the road - as more miles are travelled during the day, the rattle is easily heard under any light-footed acceleration.

    Two separate visits to the dealership didn't make a difference, despite copious foam being inserted. I wonder if the rattling is coming from the tach itself, since it's seemingly related to rpm/engine-induced vibration? Should I ask the dealer to install a new instrument cluster? If anyone's got an answer to this problem, please kindly advise so that I can be happy camper again with my awesome car.

    Here's a list of other problems with the car, that are currently being addressed by the dealer: rear door weatherstripping came unglued; non-closing glove-box; a loose rear-view auto-dim mirror; a CD player that skips while playing burned CD's; very subtle dings on rear-quarter panel; bad scratches on one wheel; brakes that feel a bit scratchy, and don't stop all that well...

    Would I buy another one? Don't know at this point.
  • rwoodsrwoods Posts: 129
    Well I am relieved to know that I am not the only one who left their parking lights on. Actually I think it happened at the car wash, probably when they wiped the dash and steering column. Battery died. Jumped it and drove into the dealer only to be told it was my fault. Happily he fully charged me and things are fine.

    What an initiation!

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Most warped brake rotors are caused by uneven brake pad deposits on the rotor vs. the rotors physically warping. When turning rotors, a very thin layer of the rotor materal is shaved off to make the surface flat again.

    Here's a good article about warped rotors.

    Aftermarket equipment as well as changing your braking habits (break-in as well as day-to-day) can make a difference.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Sorry to hear about the small problems you've been having with your Legacy. I hope that the dealer will be able to address them all. If you are having lots of problems, be sure to log a case with Subaru at 1-800-SUBARU3.

    The rattle you're hearing might be the fuel lines rubbing against each other. I've heard of a few vehicles that had this problem. Bring it up to your dealer and see what they say.

  • Thanks, that is a fasinating article on braking. It should be required reading for anyone who cares about their brakes.

  • pathungpathung Posts: 2
    Thanks for you input, Ken. You're implying then that the rattle may be coming from fuel lines in the engine bay, and not the dash board? Hmmm, the rattle sounds like it's right in the dash area... I'll ask the dealer's service techs and see what they think.

    I think that I will log a case with Subaru - a new car shouldn't have these problems, despite its having been traded amongst a few dealers and clocked 480 miles when I took delivery.
  • gbdouglasgbdouglas Posts: 1
    I am having a similiar problem on my my99 outback with 170k on the clock the inner cv boot split and got dry and then a noise started, after replacing the inner cv joint it was still there. the only thing my transmission guy has said was that I had replaced the front wheels and the rear ones were pretty worn and this may be causing the noise on full lock I have new rear tyres for 5 days and it does seem to be getting quieter but it is still there
    have you had any luck diagnosing your problem ?
  • nowakj66nowakj66 Posts: 709
    The heating and cooling fan in our Outback has become loud. It can sound like a distant propeller airplane taxing for take off. The dealer said it may be old leaves stuck in there. Any idea how to get them cleared out?

    There are 4 settings on the fan and the noise is tolerable on setting 1 and 2 but too loud on 3 and 4.
  • We had this problem on our 1992 and it turned out to be a sticky valve. As we were driving, the valve would start to stick open; it would stall and the valve would close so it would start up again.

    Because a valve job is so expensive, we tried cleaners first. Our mechanic used some heavy-duty stuff a few times and, eventually, the problem disappeared.

  • occkingoccking Posts: 346
    Have a XM Commander Satellite radio which has been working fine for 6 months in 2.5I Outback. All of a sudden, it will not go on at all--seemed like a fuse as I thought everything else was working. Now I noticed that the seatbelt chimes & flashinglight in dash no long goes on if someone in either front seat & seatbelt not connected. When I put the ignition on accessory position at first, the light in the dash does go on momentarily. Is it possible they are connected? Not sure if I should go back to place that installed the radio or back to Subaru dealer. Probably dealer cause that is not normal for seat belt light & chime not to go on. I never went through the process described in previously postings how to eliminate the constant chime.

    There is nothing in the owners manual in the section on fuses that indicates one for seatbelts, only for airbags.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    Any tips on how to replace the upper left side of the front door panel on a 1995 Legacy L wagon? I’m upgrading the speakers and I’m having trouble getting the door panel in that one corner to fit in flush. It looks like it should just slip back on. No problem with the right side corner, just the door hinge side.

    I started on the passenger side door and haven’t worked on the driver side door yet. I don’t want to pull the driver side apart until I have the passenger side figured out. If there is an easy fix, I think I’ll tackle the back speakers as well. Since I've upgraded to an Alpine head unit (easy/fun install), the stock speakers actually sound pretty good. If it is going to be as much a pain to do the rear doors, I think I’ll leave them alone.

  • rob_mrob_m Somewhere North of BostonPosts: 813
    I would go with the fuel lines also. There have been a bunch of reports of this.

    I have found that the auto dim mirror shakes quite a bit - especially when the car is hot. Rob M.
  • chanootchanoot Posts: 4
    My 04 WRX Wagon is doing the exact same thing - the water is coming from a small white tube below the glove compartment that is attached to another ambiguous white plastic part. It drips and sprays out. the whole floor mat can be soaked in about 30 min. I suspect that this is some kind of overflow valve if the condensation outlet become clogged or pinched - but I'm not sure. I'm still trying to figure out what's happening. Will post when I know more.
  • I'm back again on my front brakes. I got the rotor turned and bought after market pads. Well, the pads would not fit!! The tabs on the ends were too big to go into the slot on the rotors (even with pulling the clips out). So, I drive 16 miles back to Carquest with the piece off the caliber in order to, hopefully, get pads that fit. No luck, so I go the Napa store, the only other parts store in town, and their pads have the same problem. So, I call a friend in Denver (100 miles from me) to go to a Subaru Dealer and get the pads before they close. He even offers to drive them up and spend the night. Sounds like a good deal. Well, he blows off the dealer and goes to an independent parts store. And guess what? Those pads have the exact same fit problem. Now, it is Sunday and I have to have the car working on Monday and I am 100 miles from away from the Subaru dealer. I decide to reuse the pads and hope for the best. I inspect the pads and discover that the inner pad on both front wheels are worn all the way down and the outboard pads are barely used. Obviously, a stuck guide sleeve. I reverse the pads (out to in) and free up the guide pins. The brakes feel good and at least I can make it to Denver to get OEM pads. My questions: Has any anyone else had the after market problem or the stuck caliber problem? Thanks for reading about my escapade. Nothing is ever simple!!!
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