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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • fordwrenchfordwrench Member Posts: 70
    I think I may have a solution for you on your brake shaking. I have seen rust get between the brake rotor and the hub and get lodged there and then the rotor doesn't lay perfectly flat against the hub. A piece of rust falls off the rotor right between the hub and rotor and when you tighten the lug nuts you compress this rust but just enough to cause a shimmy. Remove the rotor and inspect the back side very carefully and even take a abrasive wheel to the hub and rotor and clean up the area real good then tap the rotor at it's edge to knock off any rust before you put it back on the hub. Then I would clean the rotor face that the wheel contacts to be sure the wheel is square to the rotor. Hope this helps.
  • cdhargcdharg Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 outback has seat heaters. The drivers seat does not seem to heat but the passenger seat does. Wondering if this is a fuse/relay problem or what?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm discussing this with you already in ANSWERS where you have a duplicate post about this problem.

    YOUR QUESTION

    Try to pick one place or the other to discuss it, as we don't want to be duplicating efforts. Thanks!

    Visiting Host
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    I'm having the same problem with the front sunroof and the rear sunroof. In the carwash, the rear sunroof leaks out and down the rear center seatbelt. The front leaks and runs down the passenger side of windshield in heavy rain.
    I'll try your suggestions. Since my Legacy is 6 years old, maybe the tube has begun to shrink and pull loose as well. Thanks for the post....

    Mark
    2003 Legacy Wagon L+
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually, duplicates here in Forums and in Answers is okay, since they are often visited by two different groups of people. What's less desirable and efficient is duplicate posts in two similar topics here in the Forums.
  • flyosflyos Member Posts: 8
    Hi, I'm hoping some of you knowledgable folks can help me out:

    The other day a new noise cropped up in my '02 Outback (119k miles, manual transmission). It only happens when I'm in gear (first or reverse) and start letting out the clutch. I hear a sort of high-pitched whirring sound that lasts for maybe a second or two - it goes away after I get the car up to a certain speed. It goes away abruptly, not gradually, as I gain speed. It almost sounds like a squeaking belt (like a power steering belt when it gets wet). I also hear it very briefly when I shift from first to second.

    I don't know how the hill-holder mechanism works - any chance this is related? Maybe something is starting to fail in that mechanism?

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be a bad throw-out bearing in the clutch, or a worn clutch pilot bearing (a brass collar or bearing that fits into the flywheel) if, in fact, it isn't a belt noise or an idler pulley bearing in the engine's belt system.
  • flyosflyos Member Posts: 8
    Hmm, sounds possible (and possibly expensive :( ). I recently had a bad oxygen sensor that was leaning the engine way back. The only way I could get the car going without stalling was by slipping the clutch, which I fear caused some premature wear. The clutch seems to be OK, although I'm sure I could make it slip if I floored it in 4th or 5th from a relatively low rpm.

    Seems like I have some clutch work in my future. In 20+ years of manual transmissions, I've never had to replace one. Can you give me a sense of how much this job will cost?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can have a worn throw out bearing or pilot bearing with the clutch slipping actually.

    Cost? It would be the cost of a "clutch kit" (disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, pilot bearing) + about 4.5 hours labor. If the flywheel is burned, scored and needs refinishing, add .2 and to replace the pilot bushing, add .2

    So total cost kind of depends on your geography and how good a deal you get on parts.

    VISITING HOST
  • bonattibonatti Member Posts: 1
    The helpful folks at the oil change placed noticed my right brake light did not work. I replaced the bulb to no avail and then noticed that the right rear turn signal and tailight did not work either. The manual does not show a separate fuse for the rear lights. Any suggestions for either diagnosing or fixing the problem?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Since none of those lights work and only on that side, I suspect the wiring to that cluster is severed somewhere along the line.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • twp1twp1 Member Posts: 1
    Anyone have a solution?
    twp1
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    replace the sensor under warranty? My '07 Outback, '08 Outback, and '10 Forester were all spot-on, down to -22F. I do wish they would use higher quality sensors that went at least to -40F (-60F preferred!), but you can't have everything.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • barry38barry38 Member Posts: 1
    1Hunter
    We encountered similar problem on my son's 1999 Legacy Outback. We began in the car interior as other problems existed with other electronics. We took out cluster and checked all connections. We then used digital voltmeter to check intermittent signals. Turned out we had bad connection between 5pin connector on back of head. A resolder improved connection greatly. Also resnapping all of the connectors on the head removed all of the other electronic issues inside the car.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I realize that I am answering a year old post (almost to the day), but the raw gasoline smell is becoming a regular Dec/January thing for me as well. Like Michael, I had HG changed and now leak fuel on cold days ('02 OBW - 4cyl auto - 75k miles).

    When I first got the car back from repair (Jan '09), I found that several of the little rubber hoses (there are a handful of them tying together segments of steel lines) were indeed seeping just the slightest amount on cold starts. Tightening them stopped 90% of the problem, but there is one right angle bend in the across-the-intake-manifold routing covered by a large bracket (front of the engine, passengers side - way to the left of the alternator) under which several hose clamps are virtually inaccessable. It only takes a drop of fuel to create a large smell. As the engine warms the leak seals up, but the HVAC fan pulls the odor into the passenger compartment.

    A year later it's back. Multiple attemps with a variety of fancy right angle ratching philips bits have failed to tighten them enough to positively stop the leak. Eventually, I'll either have to remove the cover (not easy...), or drill a large enough hole in it to gain access.

    Old timers may remember that some '02/'03 WRX models had a similar problem on icy days. The fix was slightly longer rubber hoses that could shrink a little without pulling on the metal tubing.
  • cfj1cfj1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a noise coming from my tranny "like a gear tooth is chipped or missing". It changes with car speed in all gears, clutch in or out. No noise when stopped.

    My trusted mechanic checked it out and said I need a transmission rebuild. About $ 1850. + installation, clutch, bearing, fork and main seal while he's in there. Totaling about $3500.

    Does that price sound right? He said the rebuild would not be more than that and probably lower but the rebuild shop wont know until they open it up.

    My first thought was to sell the car if I can, it has 147,000miles and use the cash for a down payment on a newer model. I would be lucky to get 4-5k on trade in I think. Any thoughts?

    Thanks,

    cfj1
  • britgeezerbritgeezer Member Posts: 95
    I wouldn't put more $ in to this one.

    Don't forget that whatever the trade you don't pay state tax on the new purchase on that part.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's a lot of miles.

    I guess it depends on the condition of the car.

    If it's in great shape it may be worth saving.
  • cfj1cfj1 Member Posts: 4
    The car is in excellent shape with exception of the trans. I'll see what I can get trade-in without the repair. That may sway me or not to go for a newer model sub or different car make all together.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You won't get diddley on a trade-in without the repair---you'd be giving it away.

    Have you considered a used transmission?

    The price quote seems very high to me. It should be something like 10/11 hours + parts. You could buy a brand new transmission from Subaru for that price.

    If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, e-mail me and I can put you in touch with Subaru resources.

    Visiting Host
  • arvada42arvada42 Member Posts: 4
    My OB underwent a tune-up about two weeks ago, the spark plugs, wires, knock sensor, PCV valve, and alternator belt were all changed. The car also had both catalytic converters replaced, ending the reign of the check engine light. Driving home in the rain last night, after getting off the highway (going about 40 mph or so) I heard a clunk, rpms dropped to zero, oil at temp light started flashing, power steering went out. I poked around the engine for a bit, it would not start, everything seemed to be intact and functional, but the engine won't turn over. Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like you broke a timing belt :(

    Just a guess, and I hope not, but it does meet all the criteria for your situation.

    I was going to say "broken serpentine belt" which accounts for MOST of your symptoms, but if the drive belt broke you'd still be able to rev the engine and the engine should crank off the battery voltage, even without an alternator.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I think Shifty may be right. Did you ever have your timing belt inspected or replaced?

    I would assume, being a 2000 car, that you've got a fair amount of miles on it. The 2.5L Subaru engine timing belt should be inspected at 90K, and replaced at 105K. Go beyond 105K and you run the risk of it breaking.

    Bob
  • arvada42arvada42 Member Posts: 4
    The car has been driven everyday for the last 10 years, but in high-traffic cities in South Korea. The mileage just hit 62,000. I was told that my timing belt should be fine until I hit 100,000. A friend mentioned something about water in my air intake.

    I thought it was my serpentine belt when it happened, but I had it changed recently, since the old one was severely cracked. It appeared on track and intact.

    I really hope it isn't the timing belt. How could I tell?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Gee, on a 2000 Subie you would have had to hit a mighty large puddle to suck water into your intake, since it is well above headlight level....and besides, if you did that, your engine would be seized tight---forever.....your car would have come to a screeching, wheel-locking halt.

    I suppose you could have DOUSED the engine with water and flooded the electrics---that would be possible and fixable---hadn't thought about that.
  • arvada42arvada42 Member Posts: 4
    My mechanic friend is the one who changed my serpentine, I told him my symptoms and he said it could be water in the engine. It was raining pretty good, but I don't recall driving through anything particularly large to have doused the engine, unless there was a delay between puddle and no cylinder movement. I'm still wondering why the "oil at temp" light started flashing. My oil level was fine, and there was coolant (although bubbling) was up to level as well. It was still raining pretty good when I was toying with it, but there was a slight sucking sound coming from the tailpipe when I tried to start it. It may have been the wind gusting funny, but would a blockage cause these problems?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I suspect the timing belt.

    The water theory should be easy to test - just pull out the air filter. If it is wet, there is a good chance that is the problem.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, and if it is, remove the spark plugs, spray in a bunch of WD40 in to each cylinder, and cycle the starter a few times to eject the water. WD = Water Displacing, so it'll help get the water out of the cylinders.

    Dry the intake, change the filter, and try to start her again.

    We rescued a Subaru XT6 that sucked in water once during a fun-run in the Pine Barrens. Owner was lucky it stalled right away and no engine damage occured. Very lucky.

    He drove through a water crossing that went over his hood, though. It was much more than rain.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't think so. The air intake is just below the lip of the front hood---had you plunged that deeply into water, it would have come over onto your windshield.

    I know your mechanic hopes it was water, but I think maybe there's the possibility that this is his baby.
  • cdndrivercdndriver Member Posts: 86
    HI,
    I had to give up my 07 legacy off lease, and my insurance is going through the roof (long story).
    So I'm looking for a good reliable used car. I don't have much cash to spend. I loved my two subies but the LemonAid guide and others say that after a few years they get really expensive and have lots of transmission problems. I'm not sure if a used Forrester or Legacy is the way to go, especially since I can't afford 12-15 for one...and I don't want something that's just at the point of problems.
    do they hold up well? at what point roughly is it not worth considering subarus? Alternatives like Audi and Volvo are just not in the price range, and don't seem to have as good an AWD system.
    I appreciate ideas what to look for.
    thanks,
    Cdndriver
  • arvada42arvada42 Member Posts: 4
    I took the car in this morning, and turns out the problem was a fried fuse. My catalytic converters were made custom by a local shop, and they didn't adjust my 02 sensor, so it was touching the cat sheild, and ended up shorting the fuse under there. They swapped it out and adjusted the sensor, the car is running fine now. It was $120 overall.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    To check the timing belt, you can remove the radiator coolant reservoir, then undo the three bolts holding the left side (driver's side) timing case cover on. That should give you a good look.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Dang; well, that's about the best news you could have received! Just goes to show, though.... more often than not, when you have a problem crop up so soon after a major service, it is not coincidence. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    wow, how weird....so the symptoms were actually a complete and immediate ignition shutdown. But you say the starter motor cranked?

    Musta been one of those fusible links I guess?

    Anyway, it WAS the mechanic's baby after all, but it wasn't triplets!!

    Lucky something didn't burn up the whole car----GEEZ!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The catch, for you then, is that before model year 2003, there were head gasket issues with the normally aspirated 2.5l.

    That means you could look for a 2.2l model, lots of Imprezas 2001 and prior, and the last year the Legacy had it was the 2000 Legacy Brighton (rare).

    Either that or get any turbo (high miles may bring one in your price range).

    Or the H6, which launched in 2002 IIRC on the Outback VDC and LLBean. The H6 is very reliable.

    Things to look for:

    * head gaskets on the N/A 2.5l until 02 or so
    * wheel bearings, mostly Forester/Impreza until 03/02 respectively
    * check the usual stuff, front/rear main seals, diffs, axle boots, etc. for leaks

    Good luck.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    And now you are left with the problem of taking that bill over to the exhaust system shop for reimbursement? In the end, I guess it is a small price to pay compared to what it could have been, but it's still annoying.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Today was nice and warm, so a perfect time to either (1) ignore the problem because, hey, I'm not smelling any gas, or (2) drill the hole in the bracket and tighten the clamp so that next week when the temps drop again I don't have to ask myself why I didn't take care of it when i could!!!

    Today I chose option 2. Good boy...

    I ended up drilling two 3/8" holes as I didn't eyeball the angle well the first time, but the second hole was a winner. A #2 philips inserted thru the hole rotated that clamp screw 3 full turns! And that's after the 2 rotations that I was able to get in using the right angle ratchet driver on a previous attempt. My sincere thanks to the guys that did the HG job for their care in re-assembling the fuel rail on the passenger side! We need a 'car face symbol' for extreme sarcasm...
  • cfj1cfj1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the trans advise. I'm shopping around here in the Chicago area to see if I can find another resource with a better price.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Atta boy. Good call.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I will second AJ on his response. I really hope it solves the cold-weather leak for you. Otherwise, I can only imagine your grumbling frustration upon catching a whiff of gasoline.... :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mom owned a car that reeked from a gasoline smell and it literally never went away, so I can sympathize...
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Too warm again today to know for sure. If this doesn't do it, I'll need to invest in new 'bridge hoses' and clamps. I suspect that 8 years and two major teardowns may have taken a toll on them.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    So I just did an oil change on the '05 Legacy wagon. I love that car. Anyway, I would say it was under 20 minutes from ramps up to ramps down and tools put away. The drain plug is right there, the oil filter is right there. The oil filter is easy to reach so you don't have to reach behind the engine and inbetween the cat and the exhaust manifold (HONDA) to take the thing off. If you drain the oil first, there is very little left in the filter so it still doesn't run all over. I made more of a mess pouring the oil from the 5qt jug into the engine then I did draining the old oil.

    I like doing it myself so I can see how much oil comes out and how it looks as it drains, and also so I know exactly how much I put in. I also like picking out the oil. I use the Subaru filter unless I am in a pinch, but because its mounted upside-down anyway, it doesn't need an anti-drainback valve so a Fram one is probably fine too.

    The family truckster has ~50k, so I am thinking I will be doing brakes soon. I am trying to decide what kind of pad to use. I am also looking forward to the WRX wheels/snow tires comming off and the stock Legacy wheels with RE960s going back on, but mother nature has more to do with that.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Same here.

    I had the Sienna's oil changed with a coupon, ended up costing me the same (so free labor). Still didn't feel right. I kept checking the oil, thinking it was low.

    I think I'll keep doing it myself most of the time.
  • smottenssmottens Member Posts: 2
    I realize that this is not a unique experience, but I was looking for tips on how to start to approach the problem of an overheating 1999 Outback wagon. I recently bought it (in otherwise excellent condition), and the previous owner was up front about telling me that it recently started overheating unexplainably.

    I tried my OBD tester, which showed up nothing. I haven't actually seen what happens when it overheats. Is it worth doing some testing of my own, or should I just take it to a shop right from the beginning?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    You can do some basic things, like looking for visible coolant leaks, especially around the water pump and the head gaskets. Also, pull the cap on the overflow bottle while the engine is running and look to see if there are any bubbles coming up through the fluid. How about black gunk in the overflow bottle or an oil sheen? Get yourself a compression tester and check the cylinder compression.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    As you probably already know from reading / searching the Subaru forums, your vintage OBW had the older DOHC version of the EJ-25 flat four engine. This unit is known for developing internal head gasket leaks. So while it is always possible that you will see external signs of a coolant leak, most likely it is still hidden deep inside. Hot compressed cylinder gases are making their way into the cooling jacket, creating steam hot spots and thus overheating.

    Wes's suggestions center around looking for visible signs of this - oil or exhaust contaminated coolant, steam bubbles venting, etc.

    Hope this helps clarify what is likely happening.
  • smottenssmottens Member Posts: 2
    Thanks - that's where I'll start the search.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Good suggestions!

    You could also buy a cooling system pressure pump, and pressurize to no more than a few pounds over your radiator cap's rating. Then, while still under pressure, you can a) see if bubbles appear in the radiator or b) pull the spark plugs and see if coolant is on them , or get a little flex-scope and peer into the cylinders to look for coolant, or take a pipe cleaner and wiggle it around in there and see if you pick up coolant.

    Head gaskets are a definite possibility here. If it is, you have to decide if the car's worth it. When doing the head gasket job, you'd might as well put in (or at least carefully inspect) the clutch if it's a stick shift, and for SURE you'll need a new radiator and maybe even a catalytic depending how how emissions read when you're done with the gaskets

    There are of course other reasons for overheating, but this head gasket problem is common on these cars .

    The Subaru Head Gasket Story


    Visiting Host
  • nornetnornet Member Posts: 24
    Are the snow tires from a Forester 215 60 R16 compatible with a Legacy MY 08 which the dealer says needs 215 55 R16?
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