Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

15859616364170

Comments

  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    "I bet you're seeing the clear coat flake off. The color's still there."

    What color would the flakes be if it were the clearcoat? The flakes are the titanium color -- would that be the color coat/pigment bonded to the clearcoat?

    --K9Leader
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    K9 leader, didn't realize you were in Newark, DE you should have met us during the 48hrs in Philly and down to the ferry in DE!
    -mike

    When was that? What was that? I checked the board very infrequently during most of April, so I must have missed something.

    --K9Leader, Newark DE
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Don't know what's on there now, but from the factory there is the gold paint (dull by itself) with "clear" clearcoat on top. If the original clear flakes off, you will see dull gold paint underneath (with the metallic in the paint). If the original gold paint flakes off, you will see black plastic underneath.

    If gold metallic stuff is flaking off and you don't see black plastic underneath, I suspect that's body-shop paint.

    Craig
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    The 48hrs was in January. It's something Paisan has organized for the last 3 years. We usually go the first weekend of January. Check out http://azpinstalls.com/48hrs-04/ for more info.

    Mark
  • vetmatsvetmats Member Posts: 71
    Paisan-
        How to you "re-bed" your brake pads?
  • jdijdi Member Posts: 4
    Just wanted to give an update.
    The dealer admitted being able to reproduce the problem after the third visit. I also called 1 800 SUBARU3 to log the issue and they followed up with the dealer who I have to say was much more responsive since then. The transmssion was replaced as it was still under warrantee (<60K). Car was in lot for more than a week until the transmission part came in.
    The car is now okay although the transmission feels very different than before. The old one was a bit jerky when starting from a stop giving the sense of power and I always thought it was normal. The 'new' transmission (which by the way I am not sure if it is new...) is more smooth.
  • bolucaboluca Member Posts: 32
    I have a 1996 Legacy wagon and would like some
    ventvisors or something similar for the side windows.
    I have not been able to find a listing for any. The closest year I could find was 2000. Does anyone know if the vehicles are close enough between 2000 and 1996 or have a source for any?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It should feel different, I think that's good. Go easy on it for the first 1k miles, treat it like you're breaking in a new car.

    I'd also flush the ATF after 30k miles.

    Hope this one is better. We don't see a lot of auto tranny failures so I hope we can rack it up to bad luck.

    Vents? They stopped selling those in the US because they were too noisy, apparently. You might have to find a supplier from Europe or Japan.

    -juice
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    jdi - If you think its a rebuilt unit, I'd get it flushed after about 10k. There's almost always a "little something" left in after a rebuild.

    My .02

    Larry
  • sufan4284sufan4284 Member Posts: 2
    I have had problems starting my 2003 Outback (LL Bean Edition with H6 engine / auto trans). It started approximately in July or August 2003, about 8 months after purchase, and got progressively worse until early April 2003.

    The problem is: First, I have to turn the ignition for a long time (about 3 to 5 seconds) before the engine will start. Then, the engine won't rev properly--I need to give it gas and hold it at about 3000 RPMs for about 30 seconds, otherwise it stalls out. Occasionally, giving it gas did no good and the engine kept repeatedly stalling. Once the engine's warmed up, though, I had no problem starting it for the rest of the day. But then the next day, same problem all over again.

    I took it to the dealership in April 2004, after the situation got much worse. The morning I took it in, it took at least four tries to get the car started. The service guys at the dealership let it sit, inside, for two days before they tried to start it. When they went to start it, they had no problem. I suggested they keep the car outside overnight and try it again. They did so, and again, no problem. They repeated this a few times. No problem. So, I took the car home.

    For the last month, since my trip to the dealership, the car has started okay, though I still sense a "hesitation" when I turn the key. I'm especially sensitive to this, since we had a 1994 Legacy wagon that never gave us a problem (until it was totalled in an accident). It would start in half a second, even in temperatures 10 degrees below zero (F). I'm concerned that the problem with my Outback will return, and I'd like to take preventive measures. But noone knows what caused the problem.

    Has anyone had a similar problem, or have any suggestions for solving my mystery?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    When you start the car, do this: turn the key to "on" (the position before start) and wait 3-5 seconds until the fuel pump builds up pressure in the system (you will hear a whirring/humming noise from the rear of the car). When the noise stops, turn the key to start and crank the engine. It should start right up every single time.

    My Bean is ocassionally finicky about starting if I just go in and crank the key. It could be because I park on a hill, who knows. But, if I let the fuel pump pressurize the system, it starts like a charm every time.

    Give that a try for a couple weeks and see if your problem goes away.

    Craig
  • sufan4284sufan4284 Member Posts: 2
    Craig,
    Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try and see if it makes the difference.

    SF
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Scuff down the surface of the pads with sand paper, then put them back in, and do several 50+ to dead stop braking patterns 3 or 4 of them, then allow it to cool to room temperature.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    SF: I'd reset the ECU to get a clean slate.

    -juice
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    If not, you may want to so we can check the history, make sure all resources were used to check it out? Please let the Rep. know that I'd like to see the case. I'm really sorry you are having such a frustrating experience.

    Patti
  • tomftomf Member Posts: 4
    I,ve been following this site off and on for a while. Finally a question? On a 99 legacy o/b are there any performance enhancement items available?
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    to "Meet the Members" they may be able to give you some pointers. Sorry -

    Patti
  • screecingsubiescreecingsubie Member Posts: 2
    i have an 2002 Subaru Outback wagon, 4 cy., 21K miles. I do mostly city driving but yesterday while coming back early in a.m. in desert (not hot out), there was an intermittent "screeching" sound (sounding a little like a new years eve party horn - but not LOUD LOUD - but noisy enough to get my attention)... The sound seemed to come from deep within the steering column... but nothing vibrating. I stopped in garage in a small town and belts and fluids all fine. I tried driving slower, it still happened, Subaru says they maybe cannot determine what it is... I just don't want to take another 300 mile trip in this car which is otherwise fine for city driving. Any possible suggestions as to what it could be? Again, this was on a straight away, no turning area from LA to Vegas... no extreme heat ... altitude was about 4000 feet... Sound has since stopped when I got back to civilization... but am thinkin of unloading this car if subie can't determine exactly what it was.
  • tomftomf Member Posts: 4
    Patti thanks for the tip.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    driving it, maybe have a dealer look at it? It is virtually impossible to diagnose something based on a verbal description. I know it must be frustrating, but it would be terrible to tell you one thing (by taking a guess) and have it turn out to be something else. If it is no longer making the noise, it is highly possible that something got caught up in the undercarriage and caused a problem that is now gone.

    Obviously it's your call to "unload" the car if you can't get an answer, but I think it deserves some investigation. I'm sorry you had such a scary experience and I hope that you take my advise and get it checked out.

    Patti
  • screecingsubiescreecingsubie Member Posts: 2
    thanks patti, when i was on the road 200 miles from home, i called my local Subie Dealer Service center --- which is sooo busy all the time, i had to leave a message on their voicemail on what was going on... as I didn't know if the car was safe to drive... they never returned call. When i did get back in town a few hours later -- and a few hundred miles later, they still had never returned my call. WHile driving, I called my old mechanic who was always available who works on Nissan Toyota Mazda/Japanese cars and he didn't know what it could be. When I reached dealer Service Center they gave me a 1:00 appointment the next day, today. But never mentioned that it would have to spend the night ... because there was some construction being done. They also admit they may not be able to detect what it was. I do 99% of my driving in town... but would love to feel safe in driving out of town 300-400 miles without fear... and if they don't find something... i will see if i can unload it. I put in a $1700 sound system Alpine MP3, speaks, amps, and car alarm -- it has low mileage 21K and in good shape...i bought it last july... but while scarrily driving it back from Vegas... kind of made a decision ... if they can't figure it out.... I may just take the loss and sell it or trade in and go for something else.. probably NEW... and not Subie. My mechanic said way back when i was researching what to buy...Subie takes forever to get parts.... and for me, their service lacks personnel. thanks again for your imput -- are youwith Subaru or what? ... I am new to these chat lines and hope someone out there has had a similar screeching problem like mine and can let me know what their experience was -- looks like i am betting against the mechanics figuering out what it was.... i will stay tuned. thanks again :) (again, this screeching went on for at least 100 miles... on and off....
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I,ve been following this site off and on for a while. Finally a question? On a 99 legacy o/b are there any performance enhancement items available?


    All kinds of stuff. Anything in particular you are planning on using this for? Or just general upgrades?

    I'd start with rims and tires, then move on to struts/springs/swaybars, then brake rotors/pads, and finally onto power upgrades after that.

    -mike
  • 20llbean20llbean Member Posts: 83
    Hi folks! It has been sometime since I last contacted this forum. I am wondering if anyone has experienced a problem which is a noise from the front of the cars after it starts in the morning. The noise seems to be coming from the belts/pulleys and sounds like the noise that would occur from a mechanical device like a fan that is unbalanced. It is a periodic sound with 1 second between each noise so it seems like someting is not lubricanted. The belt system work fine (the altenator, power steering) and the car has no loss of power so it doesn't effect driving now. Wondering if anyone has any insight. thanks.

    I did get a transmission flush and fill recently but don't think that i srelated and is probably just coincidental.
  • ozman62ozman62 Member Posts: 229
    is that you picked up a small rock between the front brake disc and the inside disc shield. It could make exactly the kind of noise you describe, then stop inexplicably. Have it checked out, but there may be no evidence. Also, it sounds like your mechanic might be a little biased, on the few rare instances I have needed parts, they were either readily available (in stock) or came in within a week or so. Maybe he'd prefer that you drove a car that required his services more regularly ;-) Don't give up on your Subaru too easily, it won't give up on you.
    HTH, Owen
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I replaced the belt on my LL Bean at the 30,000 mile service because I had been getting some noise (after startup, particularly on damp or humid days) and the belt did have some cracks in it. The new belt has been silent. So that's a possibility. I think it was about $15-20 for the belt, and it's easy to install (the H6 has a spring loaded tensioner). Just memorize/sketch the path of the belt before you take the old one off!!

    Craig
  • mmullinmmullin Member Posts: 10
    Occasionally on starting our 2000 Outback the engine will rev until the manual transmission is put in neutral, then the revving quits. Put it back in gear and it revs again but drive away and it runs fine. No revving at any other time. If it's started in neutral no revving. Anyone else experience this? Thanks in advance, Mike
  • 20llbean20llbean Member Posts: 83
    Craig,

    That sounds like a solution, I will check the belt and see if any cracks exist (car has 42K miles on it). I did try to spray some silicon lubricant but was cautious. It doesn't impact driving the vehicle but it is annoying. Thanks.
  • 20llbean20llbean Member Posts: 83
    My two cents,,

    Finally changed the OEM firestones (at 41K) with BF Goodrich T/As. So far so good but there is only 1K miles on the new tires. But the original Firestones caused lot's of frustration. They seem to always need balancing. The car rides real well as expected with the new tires so a true rating will take some miles and time to determine. Price was real good. Got the tires for close to the price on Tirerack.com and adjustments for installation and balancing etc, only added 10 dollars a tire.
  • goneskiiangoneskiian Member Posts: 381
    I too have had rocks in my brakes. Mine was wedged IN the front rotor between the two halves. How it got there I have no idea. Mechanics thought at first it was a plastic cover rubbing, but when the noise didn't go away and eventually got so bad I had to leave the car on the freeway (for fear I was doing MAJOR damage) they finally found the pebble in the brake rotor.

    I, too, feel that if they can't find anything wrong and you choose to give up on Subaru as a brand you'd be making a HUGE mistake.

    Cheers!
    -Ian
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    for the "norm", we really don't have many issues there at all. When a new model is launched, we occasionally have issues while production is gearing up, but that's the exception rather than the norm. When a situation occurs, we have a lot of processes in place for quick resolution. If a dealer doesn't have them in stock we have an overnight set-up if the vehicle is not driveable. If it isn't a vehicle down situation, the dealer places stock orders and they are filled within a week.

    If something is on national back-order, we work closely with FHI and get the part or we use a system that allows us to search dealers inventory around the US. Dealers will sell their parts to other dealers.

    Now - your shop may have had other issues, but I'm guessing there was more to it...

    Patti
  • tomftomf Member Posts: 4
    Performance wise I'm looking for exhaust and intake parts. I went to subaru modifications II and picked up a couple of threads. My main concern is gas mileage/horsepower. Handling wise being married w/children I need the mushy ride for a bit yet. If you have any inexpensive ideas I'm all ears.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I think what Mike was alluding to was that you should make sure the brakes and suspension are up to snuff before adding more power. Everyone tends to hop up their engine and then find out that the braking and handling are not good enough to manage the new found power. So, be careful what you do, especially if you're hauling a family around!

    If you just want an exhaust for some sound enhancement, I believe Borla and Stromung make units for your year car. Heck, I have a dual tip WRX muffler collecting dust in my garage that might work for you with some modification to the piping. Don't expect more than 3HP or so from a muffler, in fact you might not even notice the effect. You'd have to couple the muffler with other exhaust modifications to see anything out of it.

    As for intakes, I like to point out that many Subaru engines come stock with a resonator, which tunes the standing wave pattern in the intake system for the best performance over a particular RPM range. Any modification to the intake that involves removing the resonator will have to be pretty darn good to make up for the resulting loss. In other words, just slapping a high performance filter and intake tube on is likely to have little or even nagative effect.

    Craig
  • tomftomf Member Posts: 4
    Craig thanks for the info On the intake deal. I was talking to someone and they said that a K&N filter and a special baffle while removing part of the stock intake pluming works real good on the intake end I hope that is correct. As for the brake and suspension end, thats coming too! I just want better mileage due to current gas gouging.
  • gord7gord7 Member Posts: 16
    At 30k km just had all rotors machined on 2003 Legacy Wagon. What a difference in smoothness of braking. Hadn't appreciated how bad they were. No questions from dealer, test drove less than 1km before decision was made.

    Checked torque on wheel nuts after and retorqued all down from over 150ftlb to 70. Hope this prevents any further warping.

    Gordon
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The rotors will be prone to warping quicker than before.

    -mike
  • trgntrgn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Outback - been to the dealership numerous time with different problems. Car has 20K miles currently. At about 15K had to have the fuel pump replaced. When I drove the car from the service center, within 2 miles the ABS/VDC lights came on and stayed on. I called them back and they said the tech did not "plug something up" and told me that as long as when you turn the car off and the lights disappear, there is no problem. In around town driving, the lights periodically come on but do go out when turned off then turned back on. Had service check prior to going on a road trip - they could find no problem. 13 hours into a 15 expressway trip, the lights came on. Pulled off and turned car off, lights went off. This happened two more time in the next two hours. Back at dealership. They can find no problem. Can anyone help????
  • wagonguywagonguy Member Posts: 18
    Hi all. New to this particular board, but certainly not to Edmunds. I own a '97 Outback Ltd with about 96K. It's currently sitting outside the service dept of my Subaru dealer because of a recent incident. After exiting a local expressway, I came to the end of the ramp and stopped... only to be surrounded by clouds of smoke. I jumped out of the car and after a few minutes was able to determine that there was fluid leaking onto the hot exhaust pipe underneath. By this time some of the fluid had dripped onto the pavement and it looked like ATF to me. I had never had any ATF leaks (though do have several oil leaks that have recently developed... cam seals, crank seal, head gaskets) and have had no problems with the tranny that I've noticed. Dealer was able to take only a quick look on Fri as they were one tech short with a loaded schedule, but told me that the fluid was leaking from the ATF vent and asked if I had added any ATF as this is usually a symptom of overfilling. I haven't added any... so I guess next step is to have them take a closer look at the tranny and try to diagnose what's causing the leak.

    Has anyone ever experienced or heard about this type of issue? I know that these 2.5L 4's are notorious for the oil leaks I mentioned above (especially the cam seals), but I haven't heard about any common ATF leaks. Any advice is much appreciated...

    Jeff
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    my 98 Legacy Gt when brand new had a leak, saw some pink stuff on the garage floor my first week. they fixed it and 98K later its been fine still.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Were you cruising and really working the tranny? Basically my diagnosis would be that there is/was some water or moisture in the tranny fluid, when it got nice and heated up it boiled out the water causing the fluid to bubble out the air-vent tube. When was your last tranny fluid change?

    -mike
  • wenwen Member Posts: 42
    I am seriously considering buying a NEW 2004 Subaru OUTBACK 35th Anniv. Edition Wagon (H6-3.0), especially with the $1000 "rebate" and other end-of-year incentives, but was told it must run on PREMIUM fuel, like 91 octane (real premium). Is this a myth ?? Will 87 (regular) mess it up and degrade performance ??
    We just got rid of our Acura MDX for just that reason (premium only).
    I also heard the '04's suffer from great lack of LOW end torque......... I like decent, quick acceleration (had an Acura TL before, too). What's YOUR opinion ??
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I assume you know that the 05 models are just becoming available and are a major improvement, right? You should be paying well under invoice for an 04 model at this point. Personally, I would be looking for an 05, especially if you're used to an MDX.

    I have an 02 LL Bean Outback with the H6. It's always been plenty powerful for me, and I have loaded up the car with four people and their ski gear numerous times for weekends in the mountains. But, you really should drive one yourself to decide. Note that the transmission will shift like a granny if you are gentle on the throttle, which may lead to this perception of poor low end torque. If you engage the accelerator pedal rapidly off the line, the transmission will go into sport mode and the acceleration should whip your neck with the torque -- it's pretty good if you ask me.

    You can run regular gas, but you will lose a little pep and the timing will be retarded. I think you lose about 10HP at peak, but the effect is present through the whole RPM range. I have always bought premium fuel and it's never been a big deal (even with recent fuel prices). Typically the difference betwen regular and premium is a couple hundred dollars per year, and that's not enough to really impact my budget on a vehicle with a $30K MSRP!

    Craig
  • wenwen Member Posts: 42
    Craig, THANKS for honest and very helpful reply....
    I did not drive one yet as I worked Saturday and the Subaru Dealer was closed yesterday (Sunday). The truth is.... this will be 99.9% my Wife's vehicle and SHE just started "looking" for a vehicle this past Friday. SHE drove one (6 cyl.) as well as the 4 cyl. model, and SHE was actually the MDX driver in the past (I was the TL driver). She absolutely depised the "pick-up" of the 4 cyl. Outback, but just think, after driving the 250HP MDX, almost anything would seem "sluggish". She also tried a RAV4 (last Friday) and thought it too was "underpowered".
    Don't laugh, but I am a Service Manager of a Connecticut Chrysler Plymouth Dealership (HATE to admit it to most people, but I just did, and "nationally") and see too many "lemons" each and every day. Believe me, I will go for a THOROUGH test drive/inspection/negotiation in the '04 Outback if SHE decides to go through with buying one, but as far as PREMIUM FUEL ONLY, it was a headache last year when we lived in Florida and a migrane this year in Connecticut. We are NOT rich people and the extra 20 cents a gallon does add up.
  • ochsskochssk Member Posts: 52
    Just took my '02 Outback Bean in for it's 30K service. I asked them to check the front rotors for warping. I get a nasty shutter when braking at 60+mph or above. When I made the appointment the service guy admitted that they've seen a lot of warpage on the H-6 models. I'm worried that living in Phoenix with the summer heat this will be an ongoing problem.

    From searching the postings it doesn't look like a solution has been found yet. Anyone have a solution? I'll ask about torquing the lug nuts. I asked a long time ago and I think it was 85 ft-lbs (or maybe 75, I'll ask again).

    I assume this is covered under warranty too.

    Steve
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Definitely test drive an 05 model before making a decision. Given your background, I think you will like that a lot more than the 04.

    Also, consider the XT models with turbo. They really rock. Unfortunately, they also require premium like the H6. My guess is that the H6 would cope with regular gas much more so than the turbo.

    Craig
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Steve, yeah it's a common problem (to all 00-04 Outbacks in my experience) and you are covered under the 3/36 warranty. They will probably want to machine the rotors which does solve the problem nicely, but may also make the rotors more prone to warping in the future, depending on how much they actually take off.

    I'm planning to replace the rotors with new ones whenever my front pads need to be replaced (I'm at 37000 miles now), and maintain a vigilant watch on wheel lug torque. I always torque to 65 ft-lbs myself, but the dealer kills the lugs -- sometimes I have needed a breaker bar and pipe to get them loose. That would definitely cause a problem!

    Craig
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Feel free to pop in with some suggested solutions over in Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler minivan problems :-)

    Steve, Host
  • wagonguywagonguy Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for your reply, paisan.

    I had been doing around 70 for only about 15 mins prior to exiting the expressway. But, due to where I live vs where I work, I drive almost exclusively on local roads, usually not faster than about 50, so I guess you can say the tranny was working harder than it usually does. I actually ended up driving the car to the dealership that evening after things cooled down... didn't do more than about 40, but it was about a 20 or 25 minute ride and things seemed OK - no smoke, no burning ATF smell. Looked underneath after I parked it at the dealership, though, and there were a few drops... not sure if the tranny was continuing to leak or if it was just fluid that had leaked earlier and was now dripping off.

    Last ATF change would have been at the 60K service (done around 63K), but I'm not 100% sure that it was actually changed then... Subaru maintenance schedule says to *inspect* the fluid at that service, but I'd guess they most likely replaced it. I'd have to check my service records.

    I'm hoping you're right about the water/moisture... don't really wanna be shelling out the $$ for major tranny work!
  • wenwen Member Posts: 42
    As far as the NEW '05 Subaru, it sounds like a "better" vehicle than the '04, no doubt about it. I've been a "gearhead / carnut" since the late 60's (my age is now showing) and I've always had "bad luck" with "FIRST YEAR redisigns", especially when both the body AND drivetrain has changed. I almost bought a Mazda6 last year which was a totally new design and I believe was manufactured at a "new plant". Well just two days before I was to make final delivery/payment arrangements, the Edmunds Mazda6 Forum was swamped with complaints (and actual photos) of premature rusting of body parts of brand new, two month old cars. We moved out of Florida a few weeks later and I never did buy any new vehicle. I almost bought a '99 Acura 3.2TL, which was first year, but ended up buying an '00 in September '99. I am soooooo glad I waited for the "second year"...... as it had 5 speed auto. trans. vs. 4 speed in the '99, as well as redesigned intake manifold on the engine, etc. and a single DVD based NAV instead of half a dozen CD's like the '99 had.
  • subarujonsubarujon Member Posts: 13
    Just did the 22.5K service at the dealer. I noticed that the 30K service costs $475. Ouch! What gives? Does it really cost that much to replace the brake fluid and air cleaner in addition to the regular service? I thought the big expense was at 60K. I have never replaced my brake fluid on other vehicles at 30K....why is the Subaru different?

    By the way, due to the high cost of gasoline I switched to the lower octane fuel (87)...no pinging and no real change in performance. Actually, I think it runs better....

    Thanks for the advice...

    jon
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I get the brake fluid flushed annually - $30.00 at the local Subie dealer.

    I change the air filter myself either at 15k or yearly, depending upon how cruddy it looks - the OEM filter was only about $15. One thing you can do yourself, that I've never seen a dealer do is actually clean the plenum and air filter box. The box on the OBW had a lot of silt and sand in it that made it through all the other intake piping to get there.

    I think the fuel filter is part of the 30K service - that was also I think, about a $20 part and only took about 10 minutes to replace. My guess is that the dealer would get about $60 parts and labor for the filter and installation.

    Tire rotation - if you can do it yourself and have a torque wrench, you can save yourself some money and over torqued lug nuts by doing it yourself.

    I think the 30K maint checks the tranny and diff fluids. I'd replace the fluid but have been accurately described as very OCD regarding maintenance.

    Free advice and worth every penny.

    Larry
Sign In or Register to comment.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.