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Comments
Of course I cannot duplicate it.
Could it be normal noise coming from the front differential?
Thanks
I would at least have the system bled, just in case there was any debris in there that got stuck and caued the problem.
-juice
The rapping's getting louder, doesn't go away, and the Aluminum wear went from 20ppm to 31ppm in just 2900 miles. Blackstone's average for the engine is 4ppm.
BTW - My 04 Forester XT is at 2 ppm after 21K. Same oil (syn blend 10w30) used in both. Same intervals as well.
It looks like the iron is a trifle high as well, 11ppm vs 7ppm which would make sense for an aluminum piston rubbing a cylinder wall. Had a friend listen to it, he likes wrist pin better than piston slap. I would think the iron would be higher, but I don't know what material the wrist pin's made out of.
Going to call dealer to schedule appt with Subaru district rep. Should be interesting. :confuse:
BTW - does anyone know if the block used in the 05 OBW XT is a closed deck design, like the one used in the 04 Forester XT's? I assume the regular 2.5L is still the open deck?
Larry
Wonder if the closed deck design on the turbo's precludes that problem somehow - no trace of it on my 04 Forester XT.
Larry
When I do mine and the motor IS in the car (I happened to have it out once, so that was an easy replacement!), I pull the air filter housing on the passenger side and the fluid reservoir on the driver side (I have '96, so guessing that '99 setup is similar?). I use a standard plug socket, with a 3" extension and as low of a profile socket wrench as possible. I plug the 3" extension into the socket, then insert it into the cavern in the head until it locks onto the plug. Then I attach the wrench and loosen it until it has backed out to the point that I either take the wrench off, or it will get stuck. So, I take the wrench off and turn the extension by hand until it separates or, if it is being uncooperative, I get a very small pipe wrench and turn the extension with the pipe wrench. Usually the front cylinders are much more cooperative than the rears because there is an extra 1/4" or so of clearance between the engine and the frame on those cylinders.
I am sure there has to be a better way, but it works so for a 30,000 mile maintenance it is bearable.
As a side note, I have not had much luck using joints because the angles are so tight that they bind rather than reroute the torque. :mad:
That being said, I did pay 19.2K for my legacy 04 5spd wagon, but my dealer taxed the sale with a 5% loan as opposed to the amazing 1.9%. On top of that they screwed up the allignment twice, and cost me 500$ in tires in the first year. Groan.
Defenitely go with the 03. Nicer body style, better suspension, better car.
The OBXT uses the same semi closed deck design as the FXT, LGT and STi. I haven't heard of piston slap being an issue with the 2.5 turbo engines. Perhaps there is a tighter manufacturing spec for the components -- both the block and pistons are different from the base 2.5 NA engine.
I don't think changing oil types will do much for piston slap. You basically need to swap out the offending piston and/or short block to fix the problem.
Ken
I have a 2005 outback wagon. When I have the current mpg (miles per gallon) display on & take my foot of the accelerator it jumps to 99.9 mpg. I know this is to good to be true. When i put my foot back on the gas it resumes to correct mph numbers.Is this normal? Thanks
You're using zero fuel but still moving, so you are temporarily getting infinite miles per gallon, which is way more than 99.9, but of course the display doesn't have an infinity symbol nor would most people know what it means.
Bottom line, yes, it's completely normal.
-mike
I need to know if it's the window regulator or the switch assembly.
Thanks!
-Ryan
-mike
1) Until the engine fails, its not a problem, no matter how loud it gets.
2) Aluminum wear 7.5x normal - not a problem either.
3) Subaru doesn't really have "district reps" to look at problems, only field people that deal with specific issues.... Now that's news...... Subaru must really be "special"
4) Even if he wanted to, there's no pistons currently available in the country - national out of stock. Gee wonder why they ran out of pistons....?
5) They'd also have to boroscope the engine first. First reasonable thing he said. Gee whiz mister service manager sir, if there's no problems why are you telling me you had to invest so much in a boroscope?
6) Sign me up to buy another Subaru. Or perhaps not. :P
A rant, but a factual rant. Caveat Emptor.
Larry
My wife's Legacy (2002) was a lot easier. Still had to remove the intake and the coolant reservoir, but then access was much better so one ratchet extension was all I needed.
-juice
Thanks for the info! Looks like it wil be easier to get the Subaru dealer to do it, especially now that I have the Service Advisory bulletin # to reference with them.
This forum is a terrific resource!
Don
I have a 2005 Outback wagon VDC model. When I move my shifter from park into drive & drive for a couple of yards I hear a noise for a second, then it disappears for the rest of the drive. It sounds like a plastic splash shield rubbing kind of noise for a second. It sounds like from the middle or back of car. It only happens when going from park into drive & only when driving. The salesman told me it's the VDC engaging. Does this sound correct? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Can an old gas filter cause lower MPG? Does Gas-ahol make matters worst?
Thanks
Also check the tire pressure.
--Jay
You are most welcome! Glad we could help... . Remember that service advisories are not the same as recalls, and they are not always obligated to do it for free. Approach it nicely, and you stand a good chance. Let us know how it goes.
Steve
Usually it is a small percentage so the difference isn't that noticeable.
-juice
Don't be frightened by the inclusion of a grinder in my tool list! Now, the original struts on the car had enclosed brackets through which the brake lines ran on all 4 struts of the car. The new replacement struts, though, were U shaped open) on the rear of the car, meaning that separation of the brake line was not required to install the new rear struts. In order to save us some brake bleeding time, we ground open the old strut braces on the rears to separate the strut from the brake line without disconnecting the line from the wheel cylinder. It worked beautifully. Once all 4 struts were replaced, we only needed to bleed out the front brakes and the overall result (ride comfort) was like having a new car!
Total expense (including spring compressors): ~$530
-Wes-
When I do have it "lock" down and do the periodic clicking you mention, I just wiggle the switch rapidly up and down until it releases - usually within about 5 seconds or so.
Juice, are you marking down all of these little electrical gremlins I have with my car as I mention them?!
They've had the car for 12 days.....it was both headgaskets.
I'd say I'm tired of all the little things that have needed to be serviced but this is the first
MAJOR thing. 72,000 miles the car has always been maintained
Can't complain too much since the whole head gasket thing will be covered under the extended warranty. Good thing our two college aged kids are still at school or we would have been missing the car for that long.
Guess I'd make sure the conditioner was added on time so the extended warranty remains in effect. No warning signs ahead of time, altho my husband said when it started to overheat it smelled like caramel.
Thanks JIM
I have the OE hitch on my '98 Forester, and it's a 4 plug one. I think bigger trailers use a different style plug/outlet. You may need an adaptor of some sort.
-juice
-juice
Have a question on my 2005 outback wagon. I use Climate Control only with manual settings (Not on Auto function) When I set temp. to 68 F on a sunny afternoon I get beautiful AC. The same manual setting at temp 68 F on a cool morning will blow out very hot heat. Even though AC button is set. Is this normal?
Thanks all to have solved my questions in the past.........
When I switched to Castrol High Mileage oil it was dramatically quieter on startup.
The only trailers I've used had the 4-plug harness, so I've never encountered that problem.
If the rest of the lights work OK, can you just unplug the harness when you're not moving? Just remember to plug it back in! :surprise:
-juice
http://www.grangerscampingworld.com.au/default.htm
If you look under Accessories, then Trailer, they have 7 pin flat to 7 pin round adaptors, so I guess there are many kinds of harnesses.
-juice
Also if anyone else experiences this I am thinking the next things to check would be:
Timing, Ignition Module/pickup mod? and maybe the idle air control.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
When you say "won't start," is this cold starts or when the engine is still warm?
Plug gap...... 0.038 to 0.040? That may be more restrictive than actual, but it is in the middle of the range. I do not have my book on me right now.
You might consider replacing the plug wires as well if they are still original, but I don't think that is the heart of the issue your friend is experiencing.
Unfortunately, my first one didn't work properly either, and the running lights (both tail, and the side markers) stayed on when everything was off on the car. My dealer had to swap it out, as the original that I installed was defective.
But your situation is very strange - only one tail lamp is on? Could be that really both are 'on', but one bulb is dead? Has this trailer worked OK on another vehicle?
Steve
The CEL is on my '99 Outback, I know it is the knock sensor(P0325). I've located the knock sensor, but don't know how to get at the connector to test it. Can I just remove the alternator to get at the knock sensor? I really don't want to remove the intake manifold. Is the pig tail on the sensor long enough so that the sensor can be pulled up through the manifold and then connector removed?
Thanks
Nick L
Subaru diagnosed it as brake caliper, would not give estimate.
She was then given $400 plus bill for a single caliper replacement.
Reasonable????
Besides that, spark or fuel, so look at the fuel filter, too.
-juice
-juice
Steve
-juice