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Comments
Parts, $230
Labor (2 units), $170
Environmental Fee, $10
Subtotal $410, 5% tax means total would be around $430.
-juice
-juice
But back to my purpose... CHAT NIGHT!!
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News & Views, Wagons, & Hybrid Vehicles
The Subaru Crew Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
Good Luck!
-Wes-
Wonder if Mike (paisan) would know???
Steve
-juice
The problem is this: when you fuel upm the car doesn't want to start. This only happens immediately following the fuelling process. The only way to get it to start is to depress the accelerator until ignition occursm after which you may have to pump the accelerator to keep the engine from stalling. You can shut the engine off one (1) minute later & it will start fine. Very cold weather has no effect on starting.
The only time the problem arises is when I or a family member has to gas up.
Has anyone seen this before?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The spark plugs and fuel filter have been replaced but there is no improvement.
Rossa
OK, seriously... One possibility that comes to mind is that something is messed up in the evaporative emissions system. Pumping the 'gas' really doesn't get you more fuel, but more air, as you are moving the throttle plate, and a sensor is then telling the engine computer how long to open the injectors. So it sounds like some signals are getting disrupted.
Most people 'top off' the tank, and on some GM and other cars this has caused the emissions systems to log a code, and even disrupt normal operation. Have you tried maybe filling up only 3/4 of the way, or something short of full? This would be a good first test. If it runs well, we can then look deeper into the tank venting and monitoring systems.
Steve
When I re-checked online, I found out that I can only by a trailer wiring kit for a Legacy OUTBACK wagon and not a plain legacy wagon. Unfortunately the parts guy at the Suba dealer was surprised to learn the same thing. Is this a marketing thing? Does anyone know if the '05 Outback wiring kit is compatible with it's lower ground clearance sibling?
Is there a valid reason why we shouldn't tow a utility trailer with this car?
If I opt to splice in to the tail light wires, are there any precautions I should take to make sure this isn't my most expensive option?
The real problem, IIRC, was that in addition to the signal wires, you needed a fresh +12v supply capable of driving all of the trailer lights (something like 10 amps). I believe that the interface unit also acts as a buffer. It draws almost nothing from the cars lights - just a signal that something is happening, and creates a fresh drive on the 4 pin plug using the new +12v supply. If you simply 'tap' directly into the taillights without this, you might load them down, and some electrical systems really don't like that! Plus, you would have to change the trailer to match the separate turn signals not mated to the brake lights.
Steve
The evaporative emissions control systems captures fuel vapors from the fuel tank and stores them in a charcoal canister until the engines draws the vapors into the intake system to be burned. If the the vapor tube pulls liquid fuel from the fuel tank into the charcoal canister, it can cause "flooding" when you start the engine after a fill up.
The question is Why is fuel getting into the vapor line going from the fuel tank to the charcoal storage canister? On some vehicles there is a purge control valve that could cause this problem. Sometimes, the charcoal canister needs to be replaced.
A good certified fuel system mechanic will know what to do. The 1999 Legacy is a good, reliable automobile. Many of them have 150,000 miles and are still rolling. It's worth investing in a few new parts.
Jim W.
Steve
Anyway, does anyone have an idea on how much I should expect to spend for a set of plugs installed for an 03 OBW 2.5L? Just trying to get a sanity check before I take it in for some of its 30000 mile work. Also, is there a way to inspect the timing belt w/o disassembling the engine?
Lastly, where is the PCV valve located on this engine? I think its on top of the intake manifold, toward the back left side of the center. But confirmation's been hard to come by.
TIA
Larry
Brian
I'm not sure about your PCV valve, but on my '98 Forester it's pictured below.
-juice
Thank you.
At least the $ 4200 was covered under warranty.
Larry
Dealer said if I want to add a shock sensor to it, it is a subaru add on.
I called another dealer & they said perimeter alarm already includes shock sensor.
I then called a few other dealers & some said it is a add on & others said it's included. Does anybody know the correct answer? Please advise?
I even called Subaru 800# & got 2 different answers?
Another option is to physically look for the module, but I'm sure you'd rather not be climbing around under the dash just yet
-juice
But, it has done this for the past 100K miles and it has never become any worse, so I don't know any better than to just let it be and deal with the higher RPMs on the occasion when it happens. Usually it is in the same place.... on an overpass after a stop light on the expressway. I stop at the light. Go on green.... am usually at 60 mph by the time I reach the apex of the overpass, and it just hangs out in 3rd until I am part way down the other side of the overpass before shifting to D. If I think about it, I will often manually shift through the gears as I accelerate from the light (2 - 3 - D) and it usually responds immediately to my commands unless I am accelerating rapidly just before I shift to D for some reason.
When is the last time the tranny fluid was changed out?
My '02 OBW should be identical. The timing belt cover is split, enabling you to remove a section over the drivers side head. From here, you can inspect about 6" of the belt at a time. Make a chalk mark so you know where you started. You will need a socket (pretty big - like 1.25" ???), a 4" extension, and a breaker bar to slowly crank over the engine a quarter rotation at a time. Then with a flashlight and an inspection mirror, you will be able to see both sides of the belt, and the teeth.
As Juice said, I had to remove some of the intake tract, and the washer bottle. The job took me a solid hour, so figure labor rate, plus your dealer's markup on plugs. I'll bet $80-$100....
On my engine, the PVC was not at the end Juice's photo suggests. I have just a nipple there. One of these days, I need to take off the other end and finish the job.
Steve
Thank you for your input. I hate to ask, but would mind telling me the name of your dealership so I can ask mine if they'll do the same? My dealership made me no such offer and I wonder if they would if I told them about your dealership. I'm sorry your transmission is broken like mine. I don't know how often this happens, but the company I work for has a 99 Forrester that had a new transmission put in at around 80,000. At the time I figured it was just a lemon and never imagined I would be in the same situation in a couple months.
Thanks and best regards,
Jill
Greensboro, NC
If your dealer installed it, they should fix it. I bought mine from an online dealer, and didn't save the receipt. My local dealer offered to replace the harness if I could produce the receipt. Since I didn't want to spend $90+ for the Subaru harness, I bought a converter at WalMart for $15, and spliced it to the 6-conductor cable that connects to the car wiring. Works great.
liter engines. Do subaru headgaskets fail more readily than other vehicle? What are the signs to look for? I had a 95 impreza with 88,000 which I sold last year and had no gasket problems. I now have an 05 Legacy and hope that I will get many happy miles with it. I do love Subaru, they have gotten me through many
bad winter.
We haven't seen a pattern of had head gaskets from MY2003 and later, so I think you'll be fine.
-juice
At this point, I am not sure whether you have a problem or not.... problem meaning that tranny failure is imminent. If you can rule out certain possibilities as the cause then it just makes diagnosis that much easier. And, if you happen to find the cause by sheer dumb luck, WOHOOO!!!!
-------
I like garandman's approach of replacing the head gaskets pre-emptively. Had I found this forum before all the work I did on my engine at 145K, I would have done the same thing (considering I already had the engine out and the head gaskets were provided as part of a full gasket/seal replacement kit that cost me $390!!!!). Eh. Hopefully I can eek another few years out..... 184K and counting.
96-99 2.5 - yes.
Do subaru headgaskets fail more readily than other vehicle?
Yes and there are twice as many of them as on an inline four....
What are the signs to look for?
Swings in engine temperature. Bubbling in coolant overflow tank after hard driving. Presence of combustion byproducts in overflow tank and coolant. Cost ranges from $1,200 if it's just the headgsket to $1,600 to replace the seals that often fail as well, to $3-4,000 for a rebuild if the block cracks.
The engines so problematic are the DOHC 2.5l engines, not sure of the SOHC engine you have will prove problematic. That engine is moving a lot of weight.
2005 and laters models are actually lighter, not heavier.
-juice
You bought the "lighter weight" Press Release, I see.
From various sources, and there are likely different number out there.
1997 Subaru Outback Wagon Auto curb weight: 3,230
2000 Subaru Outback Wagon Auto curb weight: 3,480
2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Auto curb weight: 3,310
Of course, the 2005 also has three more horsepower, and those horsepower might be bigger, since they cost more.....
As an aside, despite the porky 200-2004 weight performance didn't seem to suffer much. I did a "roll-on" with a co-worker's 2001 OBW versus my 1997. From about 50 to about 80 mph the two cars were virtually even. The 2005 might be faster at speed because it's a little sleeker, at the expense of smaller interior volume than the 97. You can tell the two on the highway from the rear because the 95-99 OBW rear glass is straight across the bottom and the 00-04 are angled up a bit.
The OBW has perfectly adequate performance with a couple passengers or loaded around town: I've driven two different 97's over 225,000 miles and I've learned to live with the limited thrust. Loaded on the highway it works much harder and mpg drops. The suspension, however, handles full loads beautifully. Our Yakima RocketBox costs exactly 1.1 mpg, based on a back-to-back trip we took with and without.
I just had my 03 Legacy Wagon into my mechanic for it's 60K servicing.
The other day, as I was driving, I noticed the Check Engine light had come on. It stayed on that day and on the ride to work the next day, but when I went out to lunch, it was no longer on.
Is this something I need to worry about and have checked out or just one of those quirks?
Thanks in advance for your answers.
David
OBD-II will light the CEL (MIL) and log a code if emissions exceed 1.5x normal. If the event is a one timer, the light will stay on for usually 3 'drive cycles', then go off. The code remains in the log, along with a snapshot of the conditions at the time of the event, for 40 cycles. If it never comes on again, you can probably ignore it, and the log will clean itself out with time. If it repeats, you should get it read out. Possibly something done at the time of servicing is triggering it.
Check obvious things, like gas cap and oil cap on tight, dip stick properly inserted, vacuum hoses all on tight, etc.
Steve
I own a 2004 Outback (manual shifter) with 16k miles on it. Since about two months I am hearing a strange vibration while coasting, especially at 4th and 3rd gears.
When the engine is sufficiently warm, if I am on 3rd or 4th gears and I accelerate to about 30 mph (on 3rd gear) or 45 mph on 4th gear and I release accelerator and coast, I hear a faint but distinct continuous vibration from under the hood (more like "krrrrrrrr"), somewhat like when one holds a leaf against fast rotating fan blades. The noise continues for a while and when I hit the accelerator again, the noise disappears but returns while coasting. In fact I have rolled down the driver's side windows and repeated it and I could hear that vibration on the outside! The car has had no mechanical problems since we bought it new.
Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this phenomenon.
Thanks,
Raghu.
I own an 93 Legacy with 145k miles that stalls whenever I take it above 55 Mph. It also stalls if I'm going up a steep incline and the engine needs to work hard. My mechanic checked out the car and can't figure out what the problem is (nothing obvious, I guess). Any Ideas on what could be causing it?
Early one some others experience the coolant level dropping mysteriously, but none of those ever became a problem, and we tracked it for a long time.
So I would not hesitate to recommend the EZ30 H6, in fact it's one of Subaru's better engines, and definitely more reliable than the EJ25.
yessir: spark or fuel is usually the cause. I'd guess your ignition wires are old and need to be replaced. I'd look at those first, then the plugs, then the distributor cap and rotor (if that year still had one).
Miata spark plug wires usually last 30k miles, so at your mileage I'd be on my 5th set by now!
-juice