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I would suggest a thorough PM (Preventive Maintaince) on the front brakes. This would include filing the pad pressure-points, lubing all rubbing surfaces and checking the caliper sliders.
It is IMPOSSIBLE for more load on one side of the car to affect the wearing of the brakepads. The pressure in the hydrolic system is supposed to be IDENTICAL from side-to-side. Weight in the vechicle cannot change that fact. Brake wear is directly tied to the pressure the calipers exert on the pads against the rotors.... There is NO RELATION AT ALL to the weight on a specific wheel. Basic high-school physics.
Your mechanic may not be trained in engineering... but should have a basic understanding of the problem he is trying to resolve.
I have a 95 Hyundai accent that will need front rotors soon. I'm going to buy them online. I'm looking for suggestions on good Rotors and good pads that go well together. I'm an average highway driver. I have a standard. There is so much to choose from.
thanks,
arlene :confuse:
The "NAPA ceramix" pads are repackaged Raybestos "QS"
Dont take these facts the wrong way.... NAPA has parternerd with the "best in the buisness" and those are the very same components that I am running on the front of my truck too.
You should have noticed by now that the ceramic-based pads will leave MUCH less black dust on the front wheels too 8-)
i called my dealer and asked him about this. he said that it could be alignment, etc. if it is a caliper that isn't fully retracting, should my extend warranty honda care cover the cost of the fix? i would think maybe i would pay for the brake pad replacement, and honda would pay for the mechanical defect -?
also, are there two pistons in each caliper- one on each side inboard/outboard? trying ot understand how the system works..
... will appreciate more info, as i would like to understand this better so i am well prepared before walking into the dealer..
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/disc-brake.htm
QUESTION: Are you suggesting that the light does NOT come on if you push the brake pedal while stopped? (the answer to this is KEY to isolating your problem)
In the "old days" rotors were made with a great deal of excess metal, which allowed them to be turned on a disc lathe at least twice in their useful lives...and, anyone who did not turn rotors, if for nothing else to eliminate the glaze and check for warpage, was making a mistake...
Now, carmakers have learned that the excess metal contributes to the weight of the car, and, trying to squeeze every last ounce from the weight of the car, they have installed rotors that can barely be turned once...however, just to remove the glaze and check for warpage, they SHOULD be turned...this gives us a dilemma...
The dilemma is solved, on many cars, by the redesign of the rotor...in the old days, the rotor and hub were one piece, and, even 20 tears ago, a new rotor could cost $50-75 in 1980s money...
Now, the rotors are made the same way rear drums used to be...the hub is attached to the car, and the rotor just slides on and off, held on by the wheel and lug nuts squeezing the rotor to the hub...the new rotors only cost $20-25, much less than 20 years ago...
Which leads us to this...if there is not enough metal left after turning, just consider buying 2 new rotors, which should not cost but $40-50...new rotors, new pads, make sure calipers are not frozen, and, voila'...new brakes and great stopping power...just add some of Emeril's "essence", and drive away safely...
There are now knowledgeable people in the field suggesting that rotors should be replaced rather than turned. You either replace the pads and do nothing more, or you replace the pads and the rotors. You replace the rotors when they are either worn beyond specifications, or are too grooved (etc.) for continued use as is. My multiple experiences with recent manufacture vehicles support this advice. I hope to never get another one turned again.
But I am quite sure it was not $50-75, which is what an rotor and hub cost years ago...am I wrong again???
When I am looking for ANY replacement parts for my cars, I always call at least 3 different places (plus dealership) to get a rounded view of the price-range I am looking at.
Also, for some parts, such as brake and ignition components, it is a good idea to ask if they offer different "grades". Most parts-suppliers have at least 3 different "grades" of ignition wires available....but if you do not ask, they may not tell you that. As as example, for my truck, I was offered 4 different "grades" of brake-rotors. Prices ranged from $40 -- up to over $90. From experience, I know that the el-cheepo ones will rust terribly after about 2 winters.
I know with the fronts you can use C-clamps, but the rears are supposed to retract with that hex nut. The hex nut take a couple of turns but the piston doesn't seem to move at all. Could it be jammed?
Any ideas? Will I need a new caliper? Can I rebuild this one?
I tried some brake cleaner but still no luck.
Can I go ahead and try using a C-clamp to retract it, or will that only do more harm than good?
-juice
I have no experience with the Mazda rear caliper but I would imagine it to be similar to the Honda which I do have experience with. IIRC the Honda did not retract completely into the bore.
If you have to replace the caliper replace both you can get them exchage for cheap. That type of caliper is not worth the trouble to rebuild.
Cheers Pat.
Thanks for the response.
The fronts retract by clamping the pistons, but the rears retract with a hex nut. This one was kind of jammed, so I had to help it along with some pliers, turning the piston clockwise. It worked.
The other side was easy - the hex nut retracted it perfectly.
Both the rear brakes and the parking brake were working fine. Whew.
Then I did the fronts too. Finito!
Thanks for the tip.
-juice
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=926&action=show_detail
or this universal one might work:
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=503&action=show_detail
I was driving the other day and found no brake pressure. Turns out the lines are corroded right through. The mechanic says in order to swap out the brake lines he needs to drop the fuel tank etc, and change the fuel line cause it runs along side the brake lines. All in all he said it could be up to a couple thousand dollars!!$$$!!!! counting the labor costs.
It's not possible to just change the part of the line that exploded because the whole length under the car is rusty.
Also he wasn't sure if the fuel sending unit was attached to the fuel line, and it may need replacement too.
Any suggestions please?
However, having said that, I can't imagine why it would cost "thousands". I can't imagine more than one day's labor here.
You need to get some other quotes, but yes, I'd replace all the lines. it's not a good idea to try and patch up a brake line at mid-point. They are probably all bad anyway or on their way.
When the brakelines get as bad as you are suggesting, it is high time to retire the car from the road. That is ONLY THE BEGINNING of your problems.
Winter roadsalt (chloride) will destroy ANY metal given enouh time. If your driving habits are to follow too closely to the car in front, your radiator will desinagrate from the saltspray off the tires. Brake, fuel, exhause and other metal pipes will turn into swiss cheese.
30 years of driving in Vermont has taught me a few "tricks" to slow down the corrosion. The best thing to do is the use copious amounts of water to rinse off the UNDERSIDE of the car every chance you get. If it starts raining... go for a drive.
I suspect you now have the diagnosis you need for going forward, thanks to alcan weighing in. Good luck!
It was kind of tough to rotate that piston with locking wrench but I managed. If I do it again I'll buy a kit like that one and probably rebuild the brake calipers while I'm at it.
Brakes are totally silent now and the pedal feel is firm. Praking brake holds it even on a steep incline.
-juice