Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options
Comments
This is because when you sqeeze back a caliper, the surfaces which USED to be sitting in old brakeFluid are now expected to be shiny-clean so the piston will slide easilly.
The reason all cars should have brakeFluid replaced every 2-3 years is to purge out any moisture that has accumulated in the system. If not replaced, then raw water droplets will migrate to the lowest part of the brake-system (the calipers!) and cause internal rusting.
There is a chance that it's another problem, but most commonly it's the calipers...and the parts are relatively cheap. I usually just replace them on every 2nd brake pad change as a normal maintenance item, just to avoid problems.
There are no return springs in disc brakes, the pistons just 'float' back when hydraulic pressure is released. So it doesn't take much crud or rusting behind the piston to bind the piston, preventing it from releasing completely.
The odd thing is both sides doing it equally. Possibly the calipers both are doing the same thing, but I would do some asking at a dealership if there's something gone wrong with the ABS unit, e.g. The calipers rely on the seal around the piston flexing when the pistons are pushed out and then pulling back slightly to give a little play when the brakes go off. And the bumping of the wheels moves the parts back in. Aged, heated seals may be bad, especially now that everything has run exra hot from dragging. Even if the calipers weren't bad before, in my opinion they are now, so the best test would be replacement.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If only one brake drags, the small rubber hose at the caliper could also be collapsing internally.
If you go to the expense of replaceing those front rotors, I sure would add the extra expense of a couple of rubber hoses. If the brakes have dragged much at all, the pads might need replaced again.
You need a brake/front end alignment shop that sees a lot of cars and knows what they are doing. Whereever you took it to should have been able to successfully repair it. I'm not sure I would trust them for further repairs. If only one side was dragging, I might consider a complete rebuild - hose, caliper, pads on both fronts.
I just went to the OReilly's web site - a rebuilt caliper, with pads, is $78 per side. A new caliper, with pads, is $97 per side. So, at least here, a caliper comes with new pads.
It feels sort of like abs kicking in, only a lighter/milder pulsation than I am used to feeling from abs and these are not stops where it is anywhere close to needing abs.
Any ideas?
A common way for a brake-booster to fail is when the internal valve leaks vacuum. This will tend to 'pull' the brake pedal twards the floor and apply the brakes while you are driving.
Somtimes the internal valve can be cleaned... other times the entire booster has to be replaced.
I do know, for a leak, let the car idle in park. Push on the brake. In many cases you will be able to hear a 'whoooose' from the leak. Also, the idle speed should significantly slow down, as the leak lets a huge amount of air into the intake, which causes a lean air/fuel mix and drops the idle.
There may be a different or continuing whoosh that indicates a leak.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
BTW, what do you think about this claim that warpage is a myth and the symptoms of it are actually due to "friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc"?
I found our Ford dealer currently has a coupon for a free brake check, so I will see what they say on Monday. They did all four brakes about 1.5 years/15K mi ago.
You feel the warpage the most the slowest the slower you get. Back to the analogy, if the ceiling fan is spinning slowly, you can see the blade that is bent lower. If you turn on the fan real fast, you can't distinguish the blade that is out....it just looks like the whole fan blade pack is wider.
Anytime I've had warped rotors I could feel them when putting on the brakes to slow starting at about 30mph down to 5. Having had (and personally replaced) a number of warped rotors over the years in our vehicles....warped rotors are definitely NOT a myth. The last were a set on our heavily laden Suburban that we had taken thru the mountains and overheated the rotors on some long downgrades.
1) rotor warpage. (can often be felt in the steeringwheel too)
2) pad-material transfer to the rotors.
3) excessive rusting of the rotors.
Also bad wheelbearings can cause a kind of pulsating feeling during braking too.
With over 90,000 miles on the originals, the cost of $300 for the new parts was worth it.... knowing I will get another 90,000 miles on it before I need to do it again.
I orderd REAL German-made parts for my wifes VW.... no cheepo China or Mexico parts for my cars. Experience has shown me that el-cheepo rotors will rust/warp very quickly.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
I am going to get a second opionion next month when I get an oil change. I don't think I need to do the rotors as the brakes seem fine other than the pulsating at the end. I did a couple hard stops and they stop the vehicle smoothly without any apparent problems no "warped" rotor feel just the pulsating issue below 10 mph. I think the rotors probably looked bad just from lack of use...the vehicle has been idle a lot of the time the last few years and has only 20,000 miles on in the 2.5 years since the brakes were done. The first two sets of front brakes had each gone about 50,000 miles.
What we need now is technology that abolishes the problem altogether! :shades:
And yes, I got rid of the Jeep before the extended warranty expired so someone else could pay when it's self distruction continued.
Jeep brake pads did suck (along with Nissan and Ford). These pads shed brake dust on your wheels so even a few miles after a cleanup, the wheels would be dirty again. My Isuzu and GMC do not have that problem.
I have had the following happen to me twice in the last few months with older vehicles, so I'm wondering whether the common denominator (me) is the problem.
One of my practices when I have to drive an unfamiliar car, especially in the wet or snow, is to get a sense of what the vehicle would do if I had to brake suddenly. I do this by getting up to about 40 mph and applying the brakes firmly - not putting it into a slide or anything, but enough to be aware of whether it pulls to one side, locks up etc. My feeling is that the knowledge might be helpful in an emergency.
In recent months I've experienced brake failures after doing this in two vehicles: a 16 year old Dodge van, sporadically maintained, with 75,000 miles on the clock, and a 13 year old Ford Explorer, also poorly maintained, with 134,000 miles on it.
When the mechanic got both on the lift the lines were corroded, rubber rotted etc, and the failure was diagnosed as "could happen at any time, parts worn out".
Both vehicles are driven by the stereotypical "little old lady." I know that the Dodge is still on the original brakes, I surely doubt that there has ever been an adventure past 60 mph in either.
So my question: Given those conditions, is it possible that my "stressing" the system could have been enough to blow things up?
-mike
So I guess the real first line of defense is to keep things maintained (aka CLEAN). In the process of doing that, you are actually LQQKING at the sub system/s being cleaned and have the opportunity to catch things before they become major, or in this example TRAGIC.
Off topic but demonstrates the concept; I recently discovered two worn/frayed aux belts (runs A/C compressor and starter- so nothing unsafe) on a Toyota Landcruiser with 95,000 miles, in the process of washing and inspecting the engine.
I don't feel that I owe the owners any money - the evidence indicates that the systems had been falling apart for quite some time. In fact, I kinda feel that they almost owe me a thank you - trust me, it was better that I be the one driving when the brake light came on and the pedal fell!
-mike
No, in both cases these were friends that asked me to do them a favor - the Dodge's owner and her husband were on vacation, and asked me to use it to pick them up at the airport because of their ton of luggage, and the Exploder's owner needed an "extra long, extra plush" mattress dropped of on college move in day for a kid.
So yup if the car is in good shape hard stops should be fine no matter the age or milage.
-mike
BTW, I have drums on the rear which were not touched. Noise sounds like it's coming from the front.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I assume you realize that the vehicle DOES NOT have to even be moving to check the brake system for this kind of weakness. Here in Vermont, we have an annual "Vermont Safety Inspection" which includes testing such things. A thorough inspector will sit in a STATIONARY vehicle and push the brake-pedal as hard as he can. If the vehicle does not pass this simple test (A brake line gives way), It was not safe to be on the roads in the first place.
Another "test" they do is to use a HUGE pair of pliers to squeeze every inch of the exhaust pipes. If any section of the exhaust is weak, it will crush.... again, you fail the inspection.
Bottom line - You may have been driving when the failure occored... at least you were cognizant of what you were doing.
Imagine if somone was in an "emergancy stop" situation and the brakes failed in this way? You may have saved somones life.
I had my mechanic remove my Passat ABS module for rebuild. Module Master seems to be the company most people use but BBA Reman charges less. Anyone had experience with BBA Reman or another company?
Thanks
The front pads usually wear quicker. What you might have is 50% on rear, 20% on front. You might consider replacing the front pads.
The more important thing to be asking is why is one side at 50%, the other is at 20%.
I think there is something wrong when the pads have such uneven wear, something that should be found before just replacing pads.
I should have specified that the service advisor says I have between 20% and 50 % (20-50%) of my front pads left. Both left and right side front brakes are worn the same.
I have a Mazda MPV. At each oil change, or service, the dealership does a "full circle inspection". They check brakes, tires, battery, fluid levels etc. If whatever they check is in good condition it's given a green check mark , if it requires service soon then yellow, if requires immediate attention then red.
My last oil change 4 months ago my brakes were given a green check. Which means there was 50% or more left on the brake pads. The other day, during my oil change, the service advisor came on told me the pads were at 20%. Suggested I replace now as damage to rotors can occur if I let if go too long.
Now here's the thing. The service advisor first tells me front pads are at 20% and also wants to replace the back. Upon further questioning he says the back brakes are okay, but the front needs replacing. When I take a good look at my recommendation checklist, it says brakes checked in the yellow category means they have between 20 and 50% of pad left. I don't think pads go from 50% to 20% in 4 months, (my last oil change). So, I'm thinking my brakes are a bit worn. They fall in yellow at 20 to 50% of pad left.... probably around 40%. So, the service advisor tries the hardball approach to upselling by saying I have 20% left, instead of 20-50% left.
When I told the advisor I wanted to think about it, he offered to let me have a 10% off coupon which would save me around $24. I then said I wanted to hold off on any repairs at this time. This dealership just moved to a new location, the service department is never that busy. So, I'm thinking management is really pushing hard for the upsell. Probably going to get a second opinion as to whether the brakes need replacing. Thus far they have braked very good.... no problems.
Could the problem be in the propotioning valve? if so can you replace with an adjustable? It does have antilock.
just priced oem rotors for my '06 honda accord. i don't mind the extra expense if it makes a difference.
what would you say? oem or aftermarket?
many thanks in advance.
dennis
Obviously real HONDA brake-rotors should be quality and long-lasting.
HOWEVER: Aftermarket quality is all over the map (literally) When it comes to brake-rotors, If you ask at the parts-counter, you will be given a range of prices (and quality)
Some of the el-cheepo rotors (made in mexico) parts may rust out within 2 years. It is not worth your time to install the el-cheepo rotors unless you are planning on selling the car soon.
On the other hand, brand-name rotors such as "Bendix", "Zimmermann" or "Brembo" could be as good as OEM. ("Zimmermann" is hi-quality German steel used on Porsche!)
I realize you did not ask about pads... but this is where braking-performance will be different. (Various rotors do not alter braking-performance much at all)
DO NOT install so-called "high performace" brakepads, you may be sorry. These type of pads need to be warmed up before they start to work well. This means that a "panic stop" will NOT have full breaking power. When it comes to pads, If you want to change, it is usually better to go with a mild upgrade from stock.
Also make certain that you"season" new rotors before bedding the pads. Taking the time to do this will reward you with long-lasting brakes. (most-likely as long as you own your car)
Agree whole-heartedly.
To add...................
If your vehicle came with metallic, semi-metallic or what ever, replace with like kind.
Sometimes, replacing organic with metallic (upgrading) can result in early rotor failure. I always recommend OEM brake pads, for the simple reason that the brake pads are designed for the rotors that are on your vehicle.
Talk to your mechanic. he can recommend a good brand.