Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Did you not mention that you intend to replace that car in March? Here in the Rocky Mountain West, if not everywhere in the country, car dealers get more and more depressed over low volume through January, and they get downright desperate in February for some sales. Come March, they customers start the spring rush for new vehicles. No, I won't say it! You know what I'm thinking.
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Fleet.. I know , I know... but I need to pay off the Jetta first.. 5 months, and then I'll start shopping. I think it would be hard to find a deal on an odyssey, or sienna, since they are in such high demand anyway. would you like to give me your card?
Thanks for the help guys... I got alittle lost on my hydraulic 101 class, do you have after school hours?
I'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully I'll get a chance to look at them this weekend..
Hope this is the problem and not something more serious.
I think the explaination they gave me about the drum being over worn, is total BS. Looking over my reciepts (i'm home), these drums are exactly 2 years old, (almost to the day), and only have 17,000 miles on them. i think they are trying to take me for a ride, besides the fact taht they want $77/drum....
Burton, thanks for the advice... I don;t use the E-brake on this car. it's too old, and I've had problems with the E-brake, locking up on my previous older cars.
What do you guys think. is this just BS?
I'll check back on monday, when i'm bored at work
If so, go to a parts house and buy a new drum. It should be much less than $77.
And - did you actually put NEW drums on the car 2 years ago, or did a shop 'turn' the original drums?
You should feel the pulsating action in the pedal and or hear it clicking and thumping away.
As well you should be able to steer the car as the abs is pumping away and the car should respond to the change in steering without fishtailing.
Of coarse, ABS cannot defy the laws of gravity and angular momentum. If you come up full bore to a patch of slop at 50 mph and slap om the brakes, you may be out of luck.
In this situation you will need a "skid control system" that compensates for steering wheel angle(direction you want to go), lateral acceleration(car moving sideways) and yaw rate(rotation of car as viewed from above). Nope, no stupidity sensor. Just your brain.
Sounds like you have to determine the exact set of circumstances that causes this situation and then demonstrate it to the dealer and then hope you dont get the "they all do that. "
No it won't, it will pulse only the brake(s) for the channel whose wheel speed sensor frequency is decreasing at a rate which indicates impending lockup, while maintaining full pressure at unaffected wheels. Some systems control each front wheel separately and both rears as a pair (3 channel), better systems control each wheel independently (4 channel). Some trucks (Kelsey Hayes RWAL and RABS) control rears only as a pair, no front control, to compensate for variations in the amount and placement of payload. Can't prevent front wheel lockup, maintain steerability, or compensate for split coefficient surfaces like 4 wheel systems can.
Right about one thing though; I'd start by putting a scan tool on it and look for a wss signal dropout as it slows.
1. Keep rotor slide pins lubricated.
2. Keep caliper sliding contact surfaces free from rust build up.
3. Change fluid at least every 2 years.
4. Go easy on the pedal and avoid hard stops (unless you have to) .
5. Use emerg brake at least once a month. probably more
Thanks for your advice!
I just had new tires put on yesterday, and was able to check out the brakes while they had the wheels off. The rotors seem fine. The pads aren't so worn that they have damaged them, and they seem to be smooth, without grooves, and overall in good shape. I'm no mechanic, but my logic tells me that turning the rotors, if they aren't showing obvious or noticeable damage, may do more harm than good. I know they won't be like new, as they will be a hair thinner and a little less able to handle heat. I would think turning them would also make them more susceptible to warpage.
So what say you, brake experts of Edmunds, turn the rotors, or be just as safe and a little wealthier by just replacing the brake shoes?
Thanks,
Randy
As for preparing disks for new pads, if they are in excellent condition as you report, my finding has been that some crocus paper (or your choice of abrasive grade) can be used to break the glaze on the surface and to interrupt any "directional" spiralling that might distress your new pads. it's hard work sanding the metal surfaces a bit, but worth the effort. You want to end up with random patterned scratching on the disks.
Sounds interesting, but I'll let someone else use and report on this first before I self-grind my own in the driveway.
Bad economy is very fertile field for innovative ideas.
stocks are 1/2 price
you can hire people real easy
and all your dividends will soon be tax free
and you can pay off the deficit years from now - don't worry
I had a friend years ago who claimed he changed pads every 30K on his Impala, and never let them go out to fully worn. He routinely changed them before most people would, and he felt that preserved his rotors.
so the surfaces should be at least flatedged, and probably always have the shine taken off with Tri-M-Ite or the magic blue or green 3M pads, IMHO, based on what I read.
however, keep in mind that's brakes, and I tend to leave brake and steering repairs to folks who have insurance who I can sue if something goes wrong. so I don't have hundreds of referrals who can back me up, like Alcan does.
1996 GM G Platform (Aurora & Riviera) manual and '93 Bonneville manual:
Do not refinish rotors when performing routine maintenance, such as replacing worn disc brake pads. Refinish a rotor only under the following circumstances:
1. There is a complaint of brake pulsation.
2. There is scoring greater than 1.5 mm (.060 in.)
1986 Chrysler Front Wheel Drive manual:
Refacing of the braking disc is not required each time the shoe assemblies are replaced. If the braking disc is deeply scored or warped or there is a complaint of brake roughness the rotor should be resurfaced.
Seems like a common theme to me, but it's a moot point in the area where I live. Corrosion of the outer and inner edges of the braking surfaces tends to migrate toward the centre, resulting in pedal pulsation as the pads hit the rust scabs. Usually can't machine it out as the pitting goes deep enough to put the rotor under spec after machining.
Many thanks, swschrad & alcan.
oh, that's right, they are trying to cut weight.
next they might leave the tires off.....
Where did you get your car serviced? I'd rather not go there, but good they finally took care of you properly, it's what they should of done in the first place.
Your pads are probably sticking to the rotor a little and they just happen to make a noise around 40 mph. Try rolling at a slow speed in an empty parking lot, approx. 5 mph, and hitting the brakes quick and hard to try and free them up.
Regardless it sounds like you will need new brake pads, and at this point almost certainly new rotors. Pep Boys usually has reasonable prices, plus some stores allow you to supply your own parts - i.e. less of a mark up.
I have a new Accord with about 750 miles on it. About a week after I bought it, the brakes started making an awful grinding noise the first few times I used them after the car sat for a bit. It happened in wet weather, dry weather, etc.
I took the car to the dealer, who called Honda. Honda apparently said that it's a problem with the brake noise insulation on some new models (4 and 6 cylinders). According to the dealer, Honda came up with a fix for the 4-cylinder models, but not for the sixes.
As an interim measure, the dealer applied a composite to the brake pad, which hardens to provide temporary noise insulation. I picked the car up yesterday and the temporary solution is working. They claim that there is no safety risk in driving the car until a permanent fix is determined.
Has anyone else had this problem? What was the resolution (if any)?
I called Honda Customer Relations and should get a case manager response within the next week.
I'm just wondering if anyone else has some perspective on this.
http://bendixbrakes.com
http://raybestos.com
Sprayed the calipers with a brake cleaner. Worked for a while but then the noise came back. It stopped yesterday when it rained. Must be pad mounting vibrations. Will just bring it to the shop.
What's annoying is the noise stops when I step on the brake pedal but starts when I reach 40 or 50.
Alland
I haven't replaced a caliper yet. of course, I haven't had a set of paper-thin brakes in any of my vehicles yet like come in a lot of sedans.
but keeping things clean and having appropriate maintenance done by folks who recognize what the parts are called may have helped.