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Internal restriction in the flex hose.
With the caliper piston bottomed, you must be able to move the caliper in and out on it's support by hand. If not, the slides are binding and won't allow the caliper and outboard pad to back off from the rotor after brake release.
The dealer salesperson said this rocking motion from the braking force is normal and is typical of ABS brakes. My current car (a 1992 Civic) does not have ABS but have absolutely no jerking motion when I brake and this is a 12-year old car.)
Does anyone who have 2003 or 04 Accord sedans have similar experiences? Please let me know if you do, and what can one do about it? Is the condition possibly temporary?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I've had my heart set on getting an Accord, and am pretty disappointed that there is this disturbing annoyance with such a basic feature of the car.
Thanks very much in advance.
Kevin
scoring = .060"
runout = .003"
thickness variation = .0005"
That should be the first thing everyone checks when their ABS light comes on.......check the cheapest possible cause first, before paying high diagnostic fees.
Your cruise control automatically shuts off when it detects the 12 volt application to the brake light bulbs. If, for some reason, the fuse to these bulb(s) should fail then the cruise would never shut off. To provide a failsafe for this situation a low resistance value pull-up resister is provided to the brake light circuit downstream of the fuse.
Open brake light bulb(s) will allow the ciruit to float up, killing the cruise control. Obviously the same ciruit is used by ABS to detect brake application and so cruise and ABS are likely to fail simultaneously in this circumstance.
Pumping the pedal with the engine off is just using up the vacuum reserve in the power booster. After that the pedal will be hard to depress. Doesn't mean anything's working properly, just means that the power booster isn't working any more.
It needs a brake job, including rotors, from your description.
Thanks
notlem
go gently and with a putty knife if you decide to see if they pry out... you don't want to scar things up. you can use another vehicle and a log chain if you don't care about scarring the surfaces...
somebody has posted another site that has tons of removal/replacement details several times, but silly me, I didn't bookmark it. something like caraudio.com. anybody have the real url of this?
6 trips to the mechanic is more than enough. Any body else have this problem? Any ideas? I live in north central Massachusetts and during winter,need to warm the truck before heading out for work. With a standard transmission, that requires using the e-brake.
Low brake fluid definitely sets the ABS light, usually only when brakes are being applied.
With normal wear on the brake pads, the brake fluid will also fall because of additional fluid going into the system to push the brake pads and shoes further as they wear. Enough to have the ABS warning come on.
Wonder how many millions of dollars Ford has made through its service department because of this 'feature'. After through and expensive 'diagnosistic testing' an splash of fluid is added to stop the light display.
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm
"lifetime" is about the same, 3 years. Have no problem to exchange them already couple times at PB and one time at local store, just keep the receipt and 4 old pads in - 4 new ones out. And nobody ever look close to old dirty pads. And if I see a least one pad close to 3/32 it is the time.
Many German cars do not permit cutting the rotors, so when they wear or groove they are replaced. Exactly when they DO wear or groove depends a lot on the driver, the type of pads and even the geography of where you live (e.g., San Francisco people are going to replace brakes faster than Kansas people).
I'm not aware of any manufacturer who would warranty brake rotors at that mileage anyway unless they literally fell to pieces from defective machining perhaps.
It happened to my friend twice! The "budget" shop said he needed pads, rotors, and calipers on his '97 Grand Voyager. Many dollars later same issue worked fine in AM, 10 minutes later would change lanes if you stepped on the brake (not picked up during test drive)$50 later for new hose and labor to install and bleed, problem fixed. He had the same issue on his '98 Suburban and same shop (some people never listen/learn) changed everything but the hoses again. Had to go back a second time again. Now he knows and also found a new shop.
http://www.delphi.com/pdf/e/br_e-calipers.pdf
On my recent visit to nearby dealer for 15K scheduled maintenance service,they recommend to replace rear break pads and rotors as well.
They reported on 16541 miles
Front brake pads have 58% remaining
Rear brake pads 33% and rotors at minimum thickness.
I think that it could have been a defective rotors or pads from a manufacturer.
Because, both front and rear brake pads are original ones and never replaced.
Rotor life should be much longer than brake pads.
If rotor and pad should be replaced at the same time, either rotor is too soft or pad is too hard.
However,the dealership said it is normal wear and not covered by warranty.
As per the procedure for a problem resolution on LR Passport to Service, I called LRNA customer care center and talked to the rep. Rep repeat the same "It is a heavy vehicle. Brakes can be replaced even at 5000 miles depending on driving habit. It is wear item which is not covered by the warranty"
I had Nissan pathfinde 3 years and QX4 3 years without havinf brake problems.
It would not be a matter of driving habits.
I do not think every rotor has same hardness. But isn't there any industrial/manufacturing guide line for the hardness of rotors? I would like to have opinions from the experienced people on this board if the life of rotor could be same as single pad life.
That SOUNDS like it should be true but it often isn't in fact.
So depending on how your brake system was designed, that is, the compromises that were made among things like weight of vehicle, noise, stopping power, pedal pressure, heat build-up, etc., it is possible that brake pads and rotors will expire at about the same time.
Actually the only weird part of your story is that the rear pads are wearing faster than the fronts. That is a bit unusual.
Good thing it's a leased car. He can walk away and never look back.
On Hondas with rear disk brakes, it's fairly common to have the rears go first. During my 45,000 mile service thry found the rears to be at 1MM left. The fronts were at 5.0 mm.
The rears only come with about 4MM of pad material when new and the fronts have around 10 MM.
yeah, you could get $8.95 pad sets that are basically 1940 technology and gentler on the steel parts. but they're poor quality brakes that will fade, lose almost all power when wet, and so on.
I have resigned myself to thinking of this as a "control tax" for better vehicle control. and being of stubborn nature, German ancestry, and not wanting to enrich armies of lawyers, can now consider this excellent, as Control Is Good.
your behavior/attitude modification attempts may vary
Thoughts? Just brakes or something else.
Denny Jones
denjones@chartermi.net
Ceramic strikes me as a remarkable pad material, having recently been intro'd to same by Raybestos.