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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I would try Scotchbright, a pad made by du Pont I think. Should be able to find it in a hardware store.
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    Go to Wal-mart, they have a product for fixing it. It was around 19 dollars and did two lenses, comes in a foil package. First read the instructions. Then you wet sand the lenses with two different grits to get them clear, Then use what I think was a buffing compound, then you apply a clear made for plastics. Mine are so clear, the light so bright, it was worth it. It took maybe a half hour.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Thanks Dennis! I will give it a try! :-)

    I should add my well-meaning niece heard me talking about the lights and went at them with the scratchy side of a dishwashing sponge, which scored the HECK out of the lights without doing anything about the cloudiness! They look terrible, although it hasn't diminished their brightness. I am hoping to be able to buff out the small scratches on the lens surfaces. Wish me luck! ;-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • laura62laura62 Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem that my entire car felt like it was shaking, especially when I sped up but also when I was doing a consistant speed or stopped. I was told that it could be an engine mount or CV joint or something of that nature. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the coil pack leading to one of my spark plugs. It turned out I was running on 3 cylinders.
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    I bought a bottle of stuff from the Toyota Dealer for only 10 bucks and it worked great. Wax on wax off and now shiny lenses!
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    Took the Echo to the dealer because the engine light kept coming on.
    They said the MAF had to be replaced, so they did, I need to take it on the highway now to see if the light comes back on.
    I also asked them to check the air. Because I could smell something when it came on like oil and it wouldnt cool down unless the car was moveing.BAD news, $1400.00 in parts alone. So my friend, a real mechanic is going to help me out, there goes my stimulas check from the government. I hope this info helps others out.
  • brode1brode1 Posts: 2
    Let me add something interesting to this that I just learned this evening.

    People get a code for a faulty MAF sensor and usually go buy remanufactured ones for $100 cause car manufactures specifically recommend not cleaning them. Dealer service departments routinely put in new ones at a cost of $350 or more. My ECHO had the exact same “balky engines for 2 minutes while the low coolant temperature light was on” problems.

    But I tried the CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner. The little “wires” in the MAF sensor looked cruddy with deposits. Sprayed that stuff in there and it cleaned the little “wires” up nice and shiny again. Put it back in a voila... no more problem. It took 5 minutes. The problem was completely cured. Saved lots of money. And if that awful balky engine problem was completely cured,then there are probably subtle improvements to all other engine operations such as engine efficiency, smoothness, mileage and so forth.

    So people, try cleaning yours instead of replacing it. The stuff costs only $7. The instructions on the CRC can says you should do this every time you change the air filter. I believe I will. To all my cars. Halleluia!
  • csupancsupan Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    This just happened about a few months ago. The front of my 2003 Echo (103,000 miles) rattles like crazy while just under 1,000 rpm (idle). It used to sit at 1,000 rpm, but suddenly the rpm are a little low. Is there anyone who might be able to suggest a something I can try? I've put in the fuel injector cleaner, but it's obviously a timing issue or something, so how can I get the rpm back up?

    Thank you!!

    <img src="
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    I have had a vibration that would start when it was only cold. Well after several years it started doing it all the time. It turned out to be the plastic piece under the windshield wippers that rests on the glass. I took annd made a bead of silicon on the glass, pressed it down, aromoralled the plastic strip so it wouldnt stick, then put it in place securley, no more rattle.
  • I need a manual so I can change the altenater
    can anyone help?
    thank you
  • csupancsupan Posts: 2
    Thank you for writing back. I'll check out the plastic piece under the windshield wipers for sure, but, just out of curiosity, was this a really large rattle? I mean, mine is like the entire dash is rattling, but when I barely touch the gas (pushing it to exactly 1,000 rpm), it totally stops. It also seems to rattle a bit more when I turn the air conditioner on.

    I'll let you know if it's just the windshield thing.


    If anyone else has any suggestions as far as what would cause low-rpm rattling in the dash, please let me know!
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    go to auto zone , they can cancel your computer faults if they have been repaired
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    try car polish followed tooth paste
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    you can remove the dash with a credit card a n d a socket (probalbly 10 mil) take out yur radio speakers to see the bolts and use card to remove speedometer assembly
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    clean your maf (mass air filter sensor) with alcohol
  • doug997doug997 Posts: 1
    My check engine light came on last week. I took the car to the dealer and $94 dollars later, they told me that it was a Code P0441. The Vapor Canister and vacuum valve switch were bad. The cost of the repair estimate was $771.00. This is out of control. Can these parts be replaced by the everyday person or does the dealer have to perform this repair? Any help would be greatly appreciated. :sick:
  • kosarinkosarin Posts: 14
    my '00 ac works fine but (coincidently/) after i replaced water pump, get loud rattle when fan is on--higher the setting, louder the roar/rattle..appears to come from only far right vent..(almost sounds like there's a leaf stuck in there)...any (relatively) easy way to get to fan for an inept mechanic?
  • I have a 2001 Toyota Echo...I hade a car accident about 8 months ago and untill recently a strange noise started appearing coming from the rear drivers tire. Everytime i make a right turn a loud grinding sound happens, but when i make a left turn it dosent do that...its gotten to the point that now when im driving straight it does it to. but still when i make a left turn it does not...and to add to the weridness some times it dosent do it at all when i turn, but then comes back again. The noise seems to get lounder and the faster i go...once again it seems like something is guess is the wheel bearings are damaged????? please help!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    What you have sounds to me like a faulty constant velocity joint. Thats the shaft that connects the transmission to the wheels. If you get the car up on ramps look at the underside near the engine. See the wheels? See the shaft in the middle of the wheel going to the transmision? Look at the rubber/plastic boots (accordion thing) and see if they are torn. If they axle/joint. You might have to have a shop do an evaluation. How many miles on this car?
  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    Hi there,
    Did you figure out what was wrong with your Echo? Mine is doing the same stalling business. Its completely random - maybe once a week, after the first stop I come to when the car is still cold it feels almost like it loses power for a few seconds, then it's usually fine for the rest of the day.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Go to AutoZone and have them read the error codes for free. That might put you on to something.
  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    I had the codes run and they came up with an exhaust leak, which I had fixed. Apparently there is another one and my spark plugs need to be replaced as well. Do you think one of those things could be the issue?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Yes it could be. But youll find out if it stops!
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    Thing is, if it's really coming from the rear of the car, there aren't CV joints back there since it's front wheel drive.

    It might be something as simple as your tire rubbing on a piece of plastic (like the mudflap maybe?) inside the wheel well. It could be brought about by the suspension compressing in a turn one way versus the other until now something's come loose enough that it rubs even in a straight line. It would only be unloaded by turning to the left when the suspension rises enough to keep the tire from touching.

    As bad as it sounds, it's probably not apparently obvious, it doesn't hurt the tire much, it just sounds really loud. Kniesl's (sp?) advice is good though too. If you look and can't see anything touching, check out the CV joints in the front. Sound can travel in a car and you may hear it coming from one place even though it's happening somewhere else.
  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    I sure do hope that solves it
  • I had a check engine light with my 2000 Echo. Took it to Autozone and the code was P0441. I just ordered the canister and vacuum valve from for ~$245. and installed them myself. So far no more check engine light! Parts were not hard to install. Canister is under the car in the back behind the fuel tank below the trunk. Three bolts and 5 vacuum lines and one electrical connection to take off. Two of the lines have snap on fits and need to be pryed off carefully. The other there are push on fittings with hand clamps. Th vacuum valve is up front on the air filter top. Two vacuum lines and an electrical plug. Took me about 30 minutes to replace. Hope that helps.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Congradulations for fixing it and thankyou for posting! Check back in a few weeks if the light is still off. (or if its on, maybe someone can help) Its always good to share your experiences with others!
  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    Wow. I wish I'd been that lucky. After 2 exhaust leaks, new spark plugs, and a new MAS, my total bill came to about 750.00. However, my Toyota is a 2000 and that is the only $ I've spent on my car (other than regular maintenance of course)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    So I eventually tried the stuff from the Toyota dealer, Turbo Bright or something like that, and it worked pretty well with minimal effort or expense. The bottle cost $10, the headlight lenses are much clearer although not perfect, and all I had to do was wipe the stuff on with an old towel, then wipe it off.

    The difference in the amount of light at night is noticeable. Not bad for $10 and 15 minutes. :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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