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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • howardukhowarduk Posts: 1
    Hi: owner of '93 Altima

    Two things, my rear windows are not working correctly. Have replaced the relay switch in both still have the same freezing problem on the passenger rearside where it goes up and down whenever I key the ignition.

    Also, whenever I hit the brakes I lose my clock lamp display and sometimes the horn does not work. When i step on my brake pedal I hear a clicking sound. Fuses seem to be fine.

    Any ideas?
  • mmmsmmms Posts: 25
    I'm not sure if I titled it right, but I am looking for help why my remote garage door opener on the visor quit working also the remote on the key fob for the trunk release. This is for a 2000 Altima GLE. I do believe that these are some type of a "RF" device.
  • lmcumminlmcummin Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Nissan Altima, bought it brand new. Had the 1st catalytic converter replaced at 40,000 miles! Months later, I noticed the "service engine soon" illuminate. I brought it in for service and they said that I needed a new engine! Corporate asked the service dept. to run some more test, they did, then they changed their tune and said I don't need a new engine. Instead, they replaced the catalytic conveter again. My heater issues started around 40,000 miles - NO HEAT AT IDLE. I've been suffering with this issue for the past few years now. Currently, 83,000 miles on car. I had the heating system flushed 5 times and I had the thermostats replaced 2 times (most recently this past February). I called the service dept. again about the heater not functioning and they replied, "that's strange." I think that they realize that the problems started while under warranty. (I believe that my heater isn't working b/c of engine damage that happened a long time ago secondary to the catalytic conv. issues. ) I will either fight this battle with corporate and most likely won't get anywhere or I'll trade it in for a non-Nissan. Oh, I didn't mention the several recalls and transmission slipping issues b/c I could go on for hours. SPREAD THE WORD...NEVER BUY NISSAN. FYI: lists similar complaints.
  • fourputtfourputt Posts: 3
    If you park your car, or any car, with the steering wheel turned slightly it will cause the key to be very hard to turn. The pressure of the wheel trying to recenter puts pressure on the key locking mechanism and keeps the key from turning. If this happens again then GENTLY put pressure on the key in the on direction (like trying to start the car) and wiggle the steering wheel at the same time. The key will turn and unlock the steering wheel. This is not a Nissan problem but one with every car that has a steering wheel/key interlock problem. Good luck.
  • seanibeansseanibeans Posts: 1
    With 68K miles on my ride, my dealer has just indicated to me that a problem with my catalytic converter has caused damage to the engine, and will require the complete replacement of both. One of the guys at the dealership suggested I might inquire online to see if any other Altima owners have had similar problems. At I discovered that, not only is the problem not uncommon, it often results in engine replacement.

    The lowdown: My car had been problem free for most of it's 68K miles, and generally a joy to own, however, starting at about 45K miles I noticed that it was beginning to drink oil. With no noticeable hiccups or other symptoms, the dip stick began to show a significant drop in oil level between changes (done about every 4-5K miles). Repeated queries at the local dealer, and tests by them, would turn up nothing, so I just kept my eye on it, and added oil between changes. When it was getting low, I might hear a growl during acceleration, so I'd know to check the dip stick again.

    By 55K I'd be close to dry by 3000 miles. Dealers turned up nothing.

    This week the "Check engine" light came on - albeit, while I was on my way to the dealer to have the breaks replaced, (only 2400K from my last oil change, and with 2 added quarts from the weekend before). This is when dealer claims to have finally figured it out. While I'm glad my extended warrantee covers all of it, I am quite uncomfortable discovering my situation is not an aberration.
  • jmcgriffinjmcgriffin Posts: 1
    I am about to replace the radio in our 2002 Altima for the second time in two years. The radio just stops working - like no power is going to it. The first time was covered by the warranty, but now it has 80K miles and no warranty. I am going to have to pay $250 to replace it. I contacted Nissan and they won't cover it. I am very disappointed I have had numerous problems and recalls and Nissan isn't standing behind their product. My last Nissan lasted almost 200,00 miles without a fraction of the problems.

    Has anyone else had this problem?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Since the next audio head-unit will be on your nickel, have you thought about contacting a few junkyards to inquire whether they have one on hand for your model year car? (Just because a car is wrecked doesn't mean everything on the car is wrecked.) Providing you locate a replacement, you could have it installed by an auto-stereo shop if you don't care to tackle installation yourself. (Since it would be the factory unit, installation would be straightforward, merely entailing removal of the old one and using existing wiring and connectors to plug into the replacement - shouldn't be more than a twenty minute job.)
  • mattc3mattc3 Posts: 1
    We backed out fine this morning, stopped, put the garage door down, backed out into the road, ans when we started to pull forward, the car required extra gas to get moving. We soon noticed that the spedometer, was not working and neither were any other of the dials, fan, lights, brakes!!, turn signal, wipers, defroster, BUT the radio was. We pulled off the road. When we did we turned the car off and it had a tough time getting started until I pumped the gas pedal. So, in conclusion:

    Most all of the electrical is not working. I tried changing the fuse for the wiper and blinker without any positive results. But the car does run, Power steering works, brakes work, but I question if the brake lights work.

    My thinking is that after trying to install the altenator last night with the battery already hooked up, the big spark blew some major fuses. My thinking is to take it to the shop, but is there an easier fix? What do you think?
  • sarangsarang Posts: 1
    I have Nissan Altima GLE 1996 (108K driven). I recently took it to dealer in order to get this air-bag flashing thing checked. He told me that he couldn't figure out the problem and told that computer controller needs to be replaced which will cost $900. I decided to delay this expensive repair. While driving back from dealership I observed there was no flashing any more! the light went off after few seconds of switching the engine. I called back to dealer and he told me that in order to check airbag controller it was reset and the airbag light will for sure start blinking again. But after driving 100 miles afterwards I don't see the light flashing. I am kind of confused whether to trust the what mechanic tole me at dealership or not. Any comment as how I can get it checked somewhere else about if air-bags will function properly if needed in future ?..... Thank you very much for your time.
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    Use search. There is a post with a process to reset the light if it stays on. Used it several times on mine. The post is back a ways.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "...My thinking is that after trying to install the altenator last night with the battery already hooked up, the big spark blew some major fuses..."

    ALWAYS disconnect the battery's negative terminal (presuming a negative ground system) before undertaking ANY electrical system service. I suspect "the big spark" took the matter way beyond "major fuses". Dig out your owner's manual and search for the location of resettable circuit breakers. (These would be in addition to fuses*) It's also possible "the big spark" blew one or more fusable links** that'll have to be replaced.

    *Off topic, but I recently saw an announcement for a new type of replaceable fuse - it has a built-in LED that glows red in the event the fuse blows. Determining whether a fuse's link has melted can be tricky in cramped quarters and poor light, but an LED glowing merrily would be an instant tipoff. They're available in the common current ratings and are a direct replacement for the transparent color-coded, two-prong press-in fuses.

    **A portion of high current cabling that's intentionally designed to quietly die in the event of excess current. By the way, your new alternator may be toast, too.
  • We bought Our "2003 Nissan Altima" brand new in Nov. 2002. Currently we are about to hit the 60,000 mark.
    Thank Heavens we purchased the extened warranty.(Must pay $50.00 deductible per item covered & repaired). Received postcards regarding recall campaign issues took car to Dealership to fix problems.

    Twice the car has "died" while driving.
    First trip Diagnosis:
    Fuel Pump
    Three Way Catalytic Convertor & Exhaust Manifold
    (Silent Recall)
    Also notified Service Dept. issue of noise coming from front right side of car, this car rides like a bucket...

    After complaining & taking Altima back to the Dealership AGAIN.. finally they fixed the Front Inner Tie Rod. Hence noise coming from front right, after we got "two" written confirmation from two reputable tire businesses.

    The Struts were replaced after "2" trips to Nissan Service Dept. complaining....Hey! they also found an oil leak & repaired.

    Last but not least we went less than TWO weeks ago for Our "Free 100 Point Inspection" from the Nissan Dealership
    this week we had Our 2003 Nissan Altima towed to the Dealership...... car would not start.

    Alternator & Cracked Motor Mount.
    Wow, What Quality Trained Nissan Mechanics & Wonderful Customer Service Nissan Offers!!! Please....

    We would love to get advice on whether to "dump" this nightmare car or go for "Lemon Law". Yes, I have all my paperwork!

    What will break next on Our 2003 Nissan Altima.....
  • donnanealdonnaneal Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem with my 2003 altima. It is driving TERRIBLY (stalling, when driving, the motor feels like it has a constant hesitation, doens't shift properly, etc.), and we have taken it to several different mechanics. We have had several things done to it (flushed injectors, new battery, new sensors (put in at different times, new plugs, etc.), but none have solved the problems. I read a message from "this" website #1526. He was having the same problems and found out that the Cam Sensor and the Crank Sensor need to be replaced at the same time!!! I believe that the 2001, 2002 and 2004 years had all had recalls for the same thing, but they have not recalled 2003 (GO FIGURE!!). Anyway, we are going to have this done, and hopefully, this will solve the problem!! Read his comments on #1526. Good Luck!!
  • shade3shade3 Posts: 3
    I had to remove the engine from my 96 altima to replace the timing chain. This may be true also for a water pump replacement
  • carbuzzcarbuzz Posts: 1
    I have exactly same problem. I have a 2003 Nissan Altima with 64 K miles. I am also observing the same pulsating noise which is very irritating.

    Any solutions anyone?
  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    I had another dealer mention that changing the water pump was a 4hr job. It turned out irrelevant since the coolant leak that I was experiencing was due to the outflow pipe from the engine being pitted. A common problem according to the Nissan mechanic. I sanded the pipe and re fitted the hose and used aftermarket clamps. That worked for a while, but I noticed that it was leaking again this weekend. I'll buy Nissan OEM clamps and try that next.
  • rose_rrose_r Posts: 1
    Hi, the past couple days my 95 GXE refused to roll over, the first day I waited 10 mins. before it finally started, today I had to wait 45 mins. Unfortunately today the ignition also locked, so once I got it to unlock, the car wouldn't crank, there was no clicking and it isn't the battery that much I can tell you. Later today as I was taking a turn the car stalled and I couldn't get it to start up again and after trying to get it to start for 10 mins. it drained my battery. After it sat at the mechanics lot for 2 hrs. it started up again. They're having trouble figuring out whats wrong with it. Id appreciate any insight to my delima.
  • debjdebj Posts: 1
    My 2000 Nissan Altima (GXE I think) is making a chirping noise that seems to be coming from the left side of the car. The noise seems to happen once per tire rotation if I had to guess. It goes slowly when I am moving slowly.. and fast when I am moving fast so I think that I pretty much have it narrowed down to once per tire rotation. It doesn't sound like a "brake tab" noise.. but really like a chirping (almost like a bird). I guess it could be called a squeak too but I think chirp describes it better. Any ideas as to what would be causing this noise? Anyone had a similar experience?
  • there is a recall on the crank pos sensor take it to the dealer it should be replaced for free
  • Hello,

    We are recently new to this forum and have been reading through all the messages. We have a 2003 Altima 2.5 S we bought brand new in 11/2002. Our problems started about a year ago. The Altima started driving/riding really rough along w/numerous issues to follow. See our posting #1541. The irony is we have most of the same "issues" w/our 2003 Altima we have been reading about here.

    COME ON NISSAN your CARS fall apart after 2,3,or 4 YEARS of driving - w/under 60K miles???????????????

    What is wrong with this picture? We are extremely concerned with the Quality and Service we have received from Nissan.

    We also took our Altima to a very reputable Tire Company in our Valley re: rides rough, noises, driving wheel shakes at various speeds. They told us the wheel is bent. The Dealership says NO. We could on and on for hours.

    Not to mention the fact we got are Nissan Altima back 10 days ago from the Service Dept. - yesterday we took it back to the Dealership AGAIN for SERVICE!
    WE are sooooooooo frustrated.
  • altim8altim8 Posts: 1
    I own a 03 Altima 2.5s with 78k on engine. About 2 weeks ago the car started stalling while it was at an Idle, but would crank back over with no problems. About a week ago I was on the Highway doing about 65mph and it felt like it downshifted 2 times in less than 2 seconds. It was a real hard jolt. Almost like a misfire. Than last Friday the car started fine drove normal for about 10 mins, than getting onto the Highway it would only let me accelerate to 25MPH @ 2000 RPM's. Having car brought to Dealership today, however it is past warranty and I'm sure they will want to stick it to me price wise. Anyone else ever have these kind of problems? Is this consistant with a bad O2 sensor or Fuel pump/filter situation? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • donnanealdonnaneal Posts: 2
    Have you had the Cam AND Crank sensors changed?? They both need to be changed at the same time.
  • jmcrouchjmcrouch Posts: 4
    I have a 97 altima and it intermittenly stalls out on the hwy. I have had work on the timing chain, new wires and plug, new egr valve, had the egr ports cleaned and other things done but yet it will also stall out while sitting idling. it passed the emissions test and yet black smoke will come out of the pipes while driving. can someone offer some suggestions on what I should do next.
  • jmcrouchjmcrouch Posts: 4
    I have a 97 altima and it intermittenly stalls out on the hwy. I have had work on the timing chain, new wires and plug, new egr valve, had the egr ports cleaned and other things done but yet it will also stall out while sitting idling. it passed the emissions test and yet black smoke will come out of the pipes while driving. can someone offer some suggestions on what I should do next.
  • nhcarguynhcarguy Posts: 5
    rotate your tires and see if the noise is coming from another spot in the car. if so then you have a bad tire and or wheel. have you hit any real bad bumps, potholes, etc?

    if this doesn't help, go to another dealer and test drive a new car yourself. put it through all the motions that generates noise in your car. if you can hear it in the new car then the dealer is right. if not, then bring your car to another nissan dealer and see if they know what your problem is.

    another problem maybe your discription of the noise. Is it a hollow noise or more of a roar. Roaring noises are almost always bearing problems.
  • nhcarguynhcarguy Posts: 5

    Depending on where you live ( hot or very hot climate ) your problem maybe the crank angle sensor. It is an electronic and maybe getting too hot. It can be expensive, so you need to make sure. If the car stalls can you restart it right away or do you need it to cool first? A quick and less expensive potential fix is to just replace the fuel pump relay. You should be able to get one at a local parts store.

    Other potential problems are: ignition control or PCM, fuel pump or relay, as far as black smoke... I would ask if 1 is your mixture too rich ( bad injectors or faulty fuel pressure regulator ), or 2 are you burning oil ( have a compression check done ).
  • nhcarguynhcarguy Posts: 5
    YOU SHOULD HAvE THIS CHECKED IMMEDIATELY!!! The problem I don't like is the shaking in the steering wheel. This maybe be nothing much OR This maybe a loose or broken suspension component problem. This can be fatal if it decides to completely fail at highway speeds. Not only will you be hurt or killed but others driving near you maybe hurt or killed as well.
  • nhcarguynhcarguy Posts: 5
    I would try the lemon law first or call Nissan directly and talk to them. I would also try another dealer. Also, unless it is a warranty requirement, never take the car in for service unless something is wrong. I can't tell you how many times cars breakdown after the multi point checkup. Replace the timing belt (if you have one ) and oil (with filter) at the recommended intervals and the trans fluid if towing boats, trailers, etc. Otherwise leave the car alone. A few things that should be checked once a year ( which most dealers never do ) are: Brakes AND THE BRAKE lines ( especially if you live up north where they use salt on the roads ), your exhaust system, and your steering components ( front end ).

    Unless you can do this yourself find a reputable mechanic to perform these inspections so you don't get ripped off.
  • nhcarguynhcarguy Posts: 5
    This does not sound like an O2 or a fuel problem. This sounds like a PCM ( power train control ) problem. First check your sensors as outlined in previous reply. Have the car checked for computer codes ( some are stored even though the "Check Engine" light doesn't come on).

    The dealer can drive the car with a scanner plugged in. This should find the fault.
  • mtkethermtkether Posts: 1

    Been there as you with the Camshaft Position Sensor.
    As long as I know the camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor. On some distributors, the camshaft position sensor is not serviceable (replacement parts may not be available separately) so you have to buy a new or refurbished distributor.
    Check this web sites to get the best information about it. In advance I'll tell you that this problem can be fix it for less than 200 bucks! b/62/5e/0900823d801b625e.jsp
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