It's truly a shame that you view everything as a transaction - as though someone should have to pay to get some good advice.
Furthermore, it's pitiful that you try to paint most (if not all) messages in the "Prices Paid..." forums as a hoax just because they "MAKE NO SENSE" to you.
I, for one, choose to believe the dozens and dozens of messages about deals near invoice and I have received quotes from MP and Carrs to confirm the same.
For those who don't believe or choose not to investigate, pay what you will - the dealers will be smiling all the way to the bank.
Sorry if I was a little harsh, but I wanted you tto re-think the economics about what you were about to do before it was too late. The price on a used 2003 LX with aftermarket leathe was within $1,000 -$1,500 of what you will likely be able to buy a new 2005 one for in about 3-4 months. Although I've always bought new, I do agree with an approach to buying a slightly used car to save the original depreciation IF you are getting a very good deal. Clearly, the price you were quoted, and perhaps the market in general, does not qualify as a good deal.
I'll make you an offer to prove my point. I will pay the difference between a brand new LX and the used one you were considering. 0% interest $0 payments. All I want is the 50% of the difference in the book value between a 2004/5 Pilot in three years vs. a 2003 one at with an extra 26k miles in three years. It would be a win-win situation for both of us. And, notwithstanding the skepticism of "isellhondas", I will guarantee you that the absolute worst we will do is $500 - $1,000 over invoice on a new 2004/2005 LX, your choice of color (Ohio or PA delearship). I just bought a 2004 TL 6-speed w/ Navigation at $1,000 over invoice ordered from the factory to my exact specifiications and color from my former hometown dealership in Pennsylvania. And that is a much more limited production vehicle than a Pilot LX.
Look at it another way. If you are willing to concede 1-2 years and 26k miles for only a $1,000 discount on a new vehicle, you would have to drive it 50-60 years and about 650k miles to get your money's worth out of it.
Saving money and minimizing car payments is an honorable objective. But you need to run the numbers a little more carefully to really evaluate the cost benefit trade off. Honda Pilots are are very good deal as new vehicles, but perhaps not as overpriced used vehicles. And I will put my money where my mouth is on the offer. It would be a better $1,000 to $1,500 investment for me than most of my broker's past stock picks.
It is a well known fact that some Honda employees/associates are running a disinformation campaign on these forum to prevent inexperienced buyers from getting a good deal. P.S: Check out the persons flamming me on this board :-))
Not all, certainly, but I do think there is a certain amount of chest pounding that goes along with some of those posts. Like "leaving out" that $800 doc fee or $500 prep fee or $700 spit-shine protection package. They know they got suckered on the details, but will never admit it.
Then there are those countless posts where someone claims a great deal they got, but when asked for more details, it suddenly becomes very sketchy or they don't post ever again. there was actually one just a week or so ago on the TL vs. Accord board, as a matter of fact, where the poster claims something like $3500 under invoice. A couple of people (including myself) inquired further and have received no response. That's just one instance (and happens to be recent, so its fresh in my mind).
They are good if you take a large enough sample, but the problem is so many folks tend to concentrate on the anomalies rather than the norm.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am not an unreasonable guy. I admit that there are some unbelievable stories on Prices Paid - but those are the outliers (not countless - at least for Pilots). They are never confirmable and cannot be duplicated by another.
However, what I take offense at is when a new person legitimately comes to these boards for some information and someone (usually isell) quickly responds "don't believe everything you read in Prices Paid". For this new poster, that message translates into you can't really believe much about Prices Paid - and provides absolutely no help.
Unfortunately, this happened twice in the last few weeks.
The sheer number of good deals posted here regarding MP & Carrs tells you that it is worth checking out. These deals can be replicated and that's truly what is important.
The marketplace is getting smaller and smaller when it comes to the Internet. Most people who look here for info would probably like to purchase locally, but will travel 500-600 miles for a much better deal (or have it shipped). After all, this is a large purchase.
If people want to concentrate on the outliers, they will be disappointed and frustrated. However, if they look to dealers who consistently provide prices near invoice they will be satisfied. Furthermore, it may provide the impetus for pricing structure changes at the local dealer.
I try to temper my words and I try to be courteous whenever I post.
If I tell someone " Don't believe everything you read in Prices Paid", I am hoping they will realize that this information, while quite helpful can be tainted. Quite frankly, some of the so called "prices paid" are impossible and I KNOW they didn't happen.
then there are those who love to rain on a person's parade. New owners come to these forums and ask " Did I get a good deal?"
Usually, someone will quickly come along and them them how they paid too much.
People really need to look at the "Prices Paid" forums as useful information and not gospel. That is my only point.
i don't believe you guys (or me) are saying very different things, frankly. "don't believe everything you read" is saying just that. At least isell isn't saying "hey, NOBODY pays less than MSRP!" So he's definitely got that going for him over a few of the salespeople I ran into while shopping for my Pilot, so I give him alot of credit.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've trailed this and other discussions where Isell has commented. He's always very 'pro Honda' and is quick to defend what sounds like attacks on Honda's marketing or image -- but why shouldn't he be? If I'm selling something, I should sell a product in which I truly believe I'm giving people a good value. Then I could really push my product with sincerity.
Isell's comments are always measured in depth and breadth. He does not try to offend folks (even when I first started giving my 1/2 cents worth long ago and others and he responded -- many attacking with nasty putdowns.
He's an honest source of information. If I were buying a Honda, I'd want a salesman like him. If I asked a direct question, he'd give me an honest answer I could understand without having to deClintonspeak it!!!
He's 10 steps up from the salesman for that brand I've encounted in shopping the last 12 years in Western Ohio!!!
For your kind words. I have nothing to gain from posting here. I don't use this site to promote business. I simply try to give my opinion for what it's worth and hopefully give some helpful advise.
The posts about technical advice, new developments or recall information are very helpful. HOWEVER, the following direct quote from the message to Adam was why I responded the way I did:
"I think most of these people honestly try to be helpful but their advise is worth the price you pay for it.
Pilots are not distressed merchandise. I hear of the 400.00 over invoice etc deals but they make no sense. Do not believe everything you read in the 'Prices Paid' forums."
The first paragraph directly stating that most advice in these forums is worth nothing!!
The second paragraph being a direct jab in the direction of Carrs & MP Honda where pricing is at invoice or at $400 over invoice.
Some esteemed and knowledgeable dealer assocciates are desperately attempting to keep the perceived price of Pilot upwards and just refuse to believe that there are good deals available,if you look around further than you normaly would. The height of desperation and self-delusion, truly knows no bounds for these gentlemen!!Its becoming a comical farce,reading their desperate posts, on this otherwise dull forum.
Tom10: Yeah, we have the cargo cover and I noticed the same thing - the belt on the right side has some slack when stowed but not the left. I didn't think it was a defect, just variation, and haven't thought about it since. Now thanks to you I realize it's by design - it apparently is not a perfectly symmetrical design, something with the 60/40 split or something.
Well...as a follow-up... I am in the process of a purchase ('04 Pilot EX) from Mike Pruitt Honda in Ohio. Quote was $489 over invoice, which I'm satisfied with. All the comments on the forums are appreciated. Even those that say "there are no good deals" (paraphrasing there)...b/c you need to be able to take feedback from a lot of sources and filter. Then based on your own independant research, come to your own conclusions.
This board has been very helpful to me in my search. Thanks to all.
Unfortunately I had a chance yesterday to test out the Pilot's Five star goverment saftey rating. I must say it is well deserved. While running an errand over luch yesterday a lady pulled in front of me trying to make a left handed turn. She must not have seen me. Even though I slammed on the barkes I did not have enough time to stop. The speed I was going was 30-35 mph. I collided with her passenger side. Both air bags deployed and my front end was smashed pretty good with bright green coolant flowing from beneath. As I got out the doors were tough to open but I was able to get out. I am relatively uninjured besides an extremly sprained thumb (from how I hold the steering wheel). However I do not even think I hit the airbag thanks to the seat belt pretensioners. So I had no other injuries. The other person was not so lucky as they had to leave by ambulance. Even though the pilot isn't the funnest vehicle to drive and has some problems it is a very safe vehicle. Don't have an estimate on the damage (probably around 10-12k) but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. Drive safe guys!
My sympathies with you and the lady.Please keep the experiences coming,all of you .It is what makes this forum interesting, rather than arguing about petty points.
I am truly glad that you were able to gather some useful information and find a good deal. I hope that the final transaction goes smoothly and you enjoy your Pilot.
I guess the crash puts the important things into perspective...a bit of fussing over a few hundred dollars matters not as compared to walking away from a serious crash. Glad to hear that the Pilot protects its occupants well - hope the lady is doing better.
Well although I fared relatively well in the accident my pilot did not. It suffered 12k in damages. No where near enough to total it out (It is a 2004 with 9k on it) but it will take 12k and almost a month to repair (that is if parts are available). I am very glad I leased this vehicle as I'm sure this would have killed my resale however as long as it is repaired correctly I am not liable for any of the diminished value. My question is how could this affect future waranty requests. I still have 39 months left on the lease will this effect my ability to purchase an extended warranty? thanks in advance for any help.
With 40% of the value of the car worth of damage,You can refuse to accept it back after repairs, on the grounds of threat to safety of your family as it can cause trouble anytime on a long journey. You have already lost 60% of its normal resale value,especially after a full frontal accidental damage.
Why would you want to purchase an extended warranty on a Pilot that you will only have for 12 months following the expiration of the factory warranty? Seems like this is paying for the least likely time that anything would go wrong with the vehicle.
As far as warranty claims, I would think that if the vehicle is repaired by a Honda dealership, you are protected one way or the other. I suffered a similar accident with an almost new Acura back in the late 80's and the other party's insurance company tried to get me to have the car repaired at a less expensive independent shop. My insurance company, to their credit, advised me to have it repaired by an Acura dealership and took care of getting reimbursed by the other insurance company. I had a couple of warranty claims down the road, and none were questioned.
Also, for what it's worth, a friend of mine who is an attorney was successful in getting compensated for the diminished resale value following an accident he was involved in. The other driver had run a red light and there was a police report to back up the circumstances. I forgot the details, but believe he was reimbursed approximately $5,000 based upon the actual diminishment in market value as a result of the accident (which would be disclosed on a carfax report). His was a 1-2 year old 528i at the time.
I hope to take delivery of my new Pilot here in a few days. I will be taking a trip to the northeast, beginning the following weekend. I obviously would like to drive the Pilot, however I've heard differing things about the 'break in' period.
Can I drive 2, 7 hour days worth of driving (or 1 14 hour day) without worry? (we don't yet know if we're going to try to do it in one day). I will obviously take it easy on acceleration and braking.
However, I've heard varying reports: --"keep it under 55 for the first X miles" --"vary your speed for the first X miles" --"no hard braking or accelerations..." --"just drive it away, it'll be fine"
And then there's the oil (which I'm not as concerned about: --"keep the break in oil for X miles"
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'd really loev to not be driving my Civic up there, however, if I'm going to screw up my new car somehow...I'll downsize for the trip.
The advice I've gotten regarding break in from mechanics that I trust are to vary speed for the first 600-1,000 miles if you are going to be doing a lot of highway driving. Setting the cruise control or driving at the same exact speed for 200-300 miles during the break in period is not recommended. As for keeping it under 55, the advice I've been given is keep it under about 75, and don't redline it under hard acceleration. Save your led foot for after the break in period. As for the break in oil, talk to the service manager to find out if they actually use any additives in the Pilot. They didn't on my S2000 - which I changed out to Mobil 1 out at 2,500 miles. They supposedly didn't on my Acura TL, whcih I'm about to change out at 3,500 miles. I haven't decided whether to go to Mobil 1 on the TL, but likely will since it's a 6-speed and I use the rev band more than most that drive automatics.
Just drive it away like your normal driving. And split it over two days of 7 hours each without stressing yourself.14 hours in a day is asking for trouble unless you are truck driver! best is to get it shipped.
Thanks for the info. I have a question you may be able to answer. Since I am leasing can I file a DV claim or is that really somehing honda should do. It was very scary but I am extremely happy I am ok and the other party was not seriosly hurt.
The insurance companies won't consider these DV claims except in rare instances. It's very hard to place a value on this. One appraiser may not even notice that Pilot was wrecked if the job is first class. Another may make a big deal out of it. I'm no expert at this and I would suggest you consult with someone who REALLY knows.
Our son's BRAND NEW Accord V-6 six speed coupe was rear ended when it was a month old. 6000.00 in damages. Somehow the trunk lid didn't get touched. All of the VIN stickers are intact, the car looks perfect in every respect. I wouldn't think there would be any diminished calue at all in this case but I suppose I could be wrong.
Since you are leasing and you have been told that you will not be held responsible for any diminished value due to the accident upon turn in, I would immediately get that in writing from the dealership / Honda. And if that's the case, you have no "loss" to claim.
Howver, as a practical matter, I can assure you that a diminished value loss has occured. We could debate how much, and it highly depends upon when you would have tried to sell the vehicle. At 7+ years and 100k+ miles, perhaps not much. But at 2-3 years and 20k-30k miles, a boatload.
A business associate of mine learned an expensive lesson a few years ago when he had some dings taken out of his black Mercedes E430 that he was trading for a new S500. He had them done at one of the best body/paint shops in the DC area. When he went to turn in the trade, the appraiser was able to determine the passenger door and front panel had been repaited. Otherwise the car was absolutely pristine and had never been in an accident of any type. The reduction in trade in value was over $5,000 ($24,000 to $19,000), because the delearship, would have to reveal that the car had been partially repainted. Had the door dings been repaired by Dent Wizard or another "painless" method, no adjustment in trade in would have been made.
Anyone that thinks an accident doesn't affect the value of the car should ask themself if they would knowingly buy a car that's been in a major accident for exactly the same price as a pristine one that hasn't. If they would, I've got some "almost beachfront" property to sell them.
My son had a similar full frontal head-on collision in his BRAND NEW Pilot with $12000 k worth of damage and after HONDA repairs ,when he tried to flog his pilot ,they wouldn't give him even 30% of the resale vaue.
There is nothing to get in writing from dealer/honda as long as I live up to my lease obligations they own the car and not me. I am basically renting it from them. It is like if you got into an accident in a rental. As long as no excessive wear and tear (honda pays the first 1500 anyway) and no excess mileage I hand them back the keys and it's done. As long as the vehicle is repaired correctly the DV becomes their problem.
yeah exactly. isell works at one dealership if he works at all as a honda sales person. Sometimes I think he was just one time honda sales person but no longer in the profession. If he still works as a sales person than he doesn't represent all 1200 plus honda dealers in the US and how does he know what kind of prices people are paying across the country. The answer he doesn't. He just thinks he does.
This forum is not about individuals. It's about Honda Pilots. Use the scroll wheel on your mouse to move past things you don't want to read. Marvelous invention!
I have a couple maintenace questions, and noticed people haven't participated in that category in a awhile, so I hope I can use this one. Does anyone know if I can change my own rear tranaxle fluid and still have it covered by warranty? Or do I have to have Honda do it? Also do I HAVE to use genuine Honda Antifreeze to top off the resevoir or when it comes time to change it? By the way the manual says to change at 120,000 miles, I think that's pretty long of an interval.
i'm with isell, I've read some writeups from folks who did their own VTM4 fluid changes and decided its just not worth saving the $40 to do it myself.
120K does seem excessive. Most manufacturers I know of who put the long-life stuff in there at the factory suggest 100K (and that's also what it says on the bottle of that long-life stuff in the parts stores).
oh, and i always use what is recommended because I'm afraid of what might happen if you mix 2 things that aren't the same (there is always residual left over, so the mixing will happen unless you flush it out). But maybe that's just my personal paranoia.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Hello Pilot owners, The cup holders for the pilot, as you know, is a 1 piece formed plastic (that holds 2 cups) that lies in the middle island between the passenger and drivers seat. It appears this plastic tray can fit into two positions on the island, one that butts up to the fold down phone carrier, and the other more in the middle. Does anyone know if you can buy an additional cup tray so you can make a total of 4 cupholders up front? Thanks, jesse
Has anyone had a problem with the hinges on the read hatch door? It seems as if the hinge or metal around the hinge has bent. Now the door cannot be opened, the plastic spoiler hits the roof and now I notice the space between the roof and the hatch door is different on both sides? Not sure if this is from metal fatigue or the hinge is bent. Below are some others who have mentioned similar problems. You can identify if yours is going to fail by looking at the back hatch and you will see that the rear windows don’t line up the same distance with the body on both sides near the top of the hatch.
The car is a 2003 purchase the first day they were on sale and now has 45,000 miles.
Thanks Paul
Message #645 by calg May 23, 2004 (9:56 pm) I just took our 03 Pilot in for it's 30,000 mile service. It was part of the tranny recall, but ... to install a new rear spoiler (under warranty) since ours was warped and we could not open the rear hatch. No sign of any leaking. My husband just drove it from Vermont to New Jersey today and all ...
Message #235 Clock, et al.... by 01r1 Jul 25, 2003 (6:56 pm) No, haven't ask about the clock, it doesn't bug me. I'm currently trying to get a replacement rear spoiler since mine gets pinched in between the hatch and roof. Also waiting for a new driver's seat track since my seat moves side to side. ...
Message #226 iceranger- by 01r1 Jul 22, 2003 (1:27 am) I have that same problem too. The plastic spoiler not only rubs on the roof when the hatch is open, but is sometimes gets caught in the gap while closing. It only happens to mine ...
Thinking of buying a pilot. Does the back window either flip up or roll down? Currently own an Explorer and fairly frequently need to carry cargo that is too long to fit with back hatch closed so I am able to just drive with it sticking out the back window which conviently flips up seperately from the rest of the back hatch.
anyway, I'm sure you can order it through your dealer since it is a separate part and all. maybe even call or email some of the online parts distributors like hondacuraworld or the sponsor link at the top of this page.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
What product should I use to clean the leather seats on my 2004 EXL? Also has anyone had a rattling noise come from the rear of the car when going over bumps? I recently had 7500 mile service and the dealer replaced the rear damper,however the noise still persists albeit a little quieter.
Any leather cleaning product in the auto department should be fine. I am using Turtle Wax Leather/Vinyl Cleaner and Leather Conditioner (spray bottles) for my SUV. They have no chemical smell (or scent) and give no shinny mirror look on surface. Many products in the market are pH balanced and contain aloe. I prefer cleaner and conditioner in separate bottle, not 2-in-1 formula.
Comments
Furthermore, it's pitiful that you try to paint most (if not all) messages in the "Prices Paid..." forums as a hoax just because they "MAKE NO SENSE" to you.
I, for one, choose to believe the dozens and dozens of messages about deals near invoice and I have received quotes from MP and Carrs to confirm the same.
For those who don't believe or choose not to investigate, pay what you will - the dealers will be smiling all the way to the bank.
Sorry if I was a little harsh, but I wanted you tto re-think the economics about what you were about to do before it was too late. The price on a used 2003 LX with aftermarket leathe was within $1,000 -$1,500 of what you will likely be able to buy a new 2005 one for in about 3-4 months. Although I've always bought new, I do agree with an approach to buying a slightly used car to save the original depreciation IF you are getting a very good deal. Clearly, the price you were quoted, and perhaps the market in general, does not qualify as a good deal.
I'll make you an offer to prove my point. I will pay the difference between a brand new LX and the used one you were considering. 0% interest $0 payments. All I want is the 50% of the difference in the book value between a 2004/5 Pilot in three years vs. a 2003 one at with an extra 26k miles in three years. It would be a win-win situation for both of us. And, notwithstanding the skepticism of "isellhondas", I will guarantee you that the absolute worst we will do is $500 - $1,000 over invoice on a new 2004/2005 LX, your choice of color (Ohio or PA delearship). I just bought a 2004 TL 6-speed w/ Navigation at $1,000 over invoice ordered from the factory to my exact specifiications and color from my former hometown dealership in Pennsylvania. And that is a much more limited production vehicle than a Pilot LX.
Look at it another way. If you are willing to concede 1-2 years and 26k miles for only a $1,000 discount on a new vehicle, you would have to drive it 50-60 years and about 650k miles to get your money's worth out of it.
Saving money and minimizing car payments is an honorable objective. But you need to run the numbers a little more carefully to really evaluate the cost benefit trade off. Honda Pilots are are very good deal as new vehicles, but perhaps not as overpriced used vehicles. And I will put my money where my mouth is on the offer. It would be a better $1,000 to $1,500 investment for me than most of my broker's past stock picks.
Good luck.
Some are believable even though they seem too low for the marketplace, and others aren't.
People quickly forget what they paid, they had trades that distorted things etc. This is why I usually stay out of those forums.
Then there are those countless posts where someone claims a great deal they got, but when asked for more details, it suddenly becomes very sketchy or they don't post ever again. there was actually one just a week or so ago on the TL vs. Accord board, as a matter of fact, where the poster claims something like $3500 under invoice. A couple of people (including myself) inquired further and have received no response. That's just one instance (and happens to be recent, so its fresh in my mind).
They are good if you take a large enough sample, but the problem is so many folks tend to concentrate on the anomalies rather than the norm.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am not an unreasonable guy. I admit that there are some unbelievable stories on Prices Paid - but those are the outliers (not countless - at least for Pilots). They are never confirmable and cannot be duplicated by another.
However, what I take offense at is when a new person legitimately comes to these boards for some information and someone (usually isell) quickly responds "don't believe everything you read in Prices Paid". For this new poster, that message translates into you can't really believe much about Prices Paid - and provides absolutely no help.
Unfortunately, this happened twice in the last few weeks.
The sheer number of good deals posted here regarding MP & Carrs tells you that it is worth checking out. These deals can be replicated and that's truly what is important.
The marketplace is getting smaller and smaller when it comes to the Internet. Most people who look here for info would probably like to purchase locally, but will travel 500-600 miles for a much better deal (or have it shipped). After all, this is a large purchase.
If people want to concentrate on the outliers, they will be disappointed and frustrated. However, if they look to dealers who consistently provide prices near invoice they will be satisfied. Furthermore, it may provide the impetus for pricing structure changes at the local dealer.
If I tell someone " Don't believe everything you read in Prices Paid", I am hoping they will realize that this information, while quite helpful can be tainted. Quite frankly, some of the so called "prices paid" are impossible and I KNOW they didn't happen.
then there are those who love to rain on a person's parade. New owners come to these forums and ask " Did I get a good deal?"
Usually, someone will quickly come along and them them how they paid too much.
People really need to look at the "Prices Paid" forums as useful information and not gospel. That is my only point.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Isell's comments are always measured in depth and breadth. He does not try to offend folks (even when I first started giving my 1/2 cents worth long ago and others and he responded -- many attacking with nasty putdowns.
He's an honest source of information. If I were buying a Honda, I'd want a salesman like him. If I asked a direct question, he'd give me an honest answer I could understand without having to deClintonspeak it!!!
He's 10 steps up from the salesman for that brand I've encounted in shopping the last 12 years in Western Ohio!!!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thank you for those nice comments.
Nice mutual back- scratching.
Keep it up.
"I think most of these people honestly try to be helpful but their advise is worth the price you pay for it.
Pilots are not distressed merchandise. I hear of the 400.00 over invoice etc deals but they make no sense. Do not believe everything you read in the 'Prices Paid' forums."
The first paragraph directly stating that most advice in these forums is worth nothing!!
The second paragraph being a direct jab in the direction of Carrs & MP Honda where pricing is at invoice or at $400 over invoice.
The height of desperation and self-delusion, truly knows no bounds for these gentlemen!!Its becoming a comical farce,reading their desperate posts, on this otherwise dull forum.
Elliot
I am in the process of a purchase ('04 Pilot EX) from Mike Pruitt Honda in Ohio. Quote was $489 over invoice, which I'm satisfied with. All the comments on the forums are appreciated. Even those that say "there are no good deals" (paraphrasing there)...b/c you need to be able to take feedback from a lot of sources and filter. Then based on your own independant research, come to your own conclusions.
This board has been very helpful to me in my search. Thanks to all.
I hope the sale goes through without a hitch.
exactly right!
congrats! hope all goes smoothly and you enjoy your new pilot!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am truly glad that you were able to gather some useful information and find a good deal. I hope that the final transaction goes smoothly and you enjoy your Pilot.
I guess the crash puts the important things into perspective...a bit of fussing over a few hundred dollars matters not as compared to walking away from a serious crash. Glad to hear that the Pilot protects its occupants well - hope the lady is doing better.
You have already lost 60% of its normal resale value,especially after a full frontal accidental damage.
As far as warranty claims, I would think that if the vehicle is repaired by a Honda dealership, you are protected one way or the other. I suffered a similar accident with an almost new Acura back in the late 80's and the other party's insurance company tried to get me to have the car repaired at a less expensive independent shop. My insurance company, to their credit, advised me to have it repaired by an Acura dealership and took care of getting reimbursed by the other insurance company. I had a couple of warranty claims down the road, and none were questioned.
Also, for what it's worth, a friend of mine who is an attorney was successful in getting compensated for the diminished resale value following an accident he was involved in. The other driver had run a red light and there was a police report to back up the circumstances. I forgot the details, but believe he was reimbursed approximately $5,000 based upon the actual diminishment in market value as a result of the accident (which would be disclosed on a carfax report). His was a 1-2 year old 528i at the time.
Glad to hear you were O.K.
Glad you are O.K. Must have been scary.
A properly repaired car is not a "threat" to the safety of someone's family either!
Lose 60% of it's value??? Where did you ever get that?
Can I drive 2, 7 hour days worth of driving (or 1 14 hour day) without worry? (we don't yet know if we're going to try to do it in one day). I will obviously take it easy on acceleration and braking.
However, I've heard varying reports:
--"keep it under 55 for the first X miles"
--"vary your speed for the first X miles"
--"no hard braking or accelerations..."
--"just drive it away, it'll be fine"
And then there's the oil (which I'm not as concerned about:
--"keep the break in oil for X miles"
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'd really loev to not be driving my Civic up there, however, if I'm going to screw up my new car somehow...I'll downsize for the trip.
And split it over two days of 7 hours each without stressing yourself.14 hours in a day is asking for trouble unless you are truck driver!
best is to get it shipped.
Our son's BRAND NEW Accord V-6 six speed coupe was rear ended when it was a month old. 6000.00 in damages. Somehow the trunk lid didn't get touched. All of the VIN stickers are intact, the car looks perfect in every respect. I wouldn't think there would be any diminished calue at all in this case but I suppose I could be wrong.
Howver, as a practical matter, I can assure you that a diminished value loss has occured. We could debate how much, and it highly depends upon when you would have tried to sell the vehicle. At 7+ years and 100k+ miles, perhaps not much. But at 2-3 years and 20k-30k miles, a boatload.
A business associate of mine learned an expensive lesson a few years ago when he had some dings taken out of his black Mercedes E430 that he was trading for a new S500. He had them done at one of the best body/paint shops in the DC area. When he went to turn in the trade, the appraiser was able to determine the passenger door and front panel had been repaited. Otherwise the car was absolutely pristine and had never been in an accident of any type. The reduction in trade in value was over $5,000 ($24,000 to $19,000), because the delearship, would have to reveal that the car had been partially repainted. Had the door dings been repaired by Dent Wizard or another "painless" method, no adjustment in trade in would have been made.
Anyone that thinks an accident doesn't affect the value of the car should ask themself if they would knowingly buy a car that's been in a major accident for exactly the same price as a pristine one that hasn't. If they would, I've got some "almost beachfront" property to sell them.
My son had a similar full frontal head-on collision in his BRAND NEW Pilot with $12000 k worth of damage and after HONDA repairs ,when he tried to flog his pilot ,they wouldn't give him even 30% of the resale vaue.
Thanks.
tidester, host
I know that's a dirty job that I wouldn't want to do myself.
Why would you not want to use Honda coolant?
I don't know what effect non-Honda coolant may have. someone else here may be a better source.
Still, even if it's 2.00 more a gallon, I would use what they reccommend.
120K does seem excessive. Most manufacturers I know of who put the long-life stuff in there at the factory suggest 100K (and that's also what it says on the bottle of that long-life stuff in the parts stores).
oh, and i always use what is recommended because I'm afraid of what might happen if you mix 2 things that aren't the same (there is always residual left over, so the mixing will happen unless you flush it out). But maybe that's just my personal paranoia.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I need to re-read an owner's manual because 120,000 sure seems like a long time.
I know I would probably do it sooner than that just because I like to baby my cars.
Thanks.
I was told by a rival dealer that my dealer was not selling me a true EXL and that they were probably pulling this bait and switch tactic.
Is there a way through serial numbers or some other mechanism that I can verify what I am buying is what it's supposed to be?
The cup holders for the pilot, as you know, is a 1 piece formed plastic (that holds 2 cups) that lies in the middle island between the passenger and drivers seat. It appears this plastic tray can fit into two positions on the island, one that butts up to the fold down phone carrier, and the other more in the middle. Does anyone know if you can buy an additional cup tray so you can make a total of 4 cupholders up front?
Thanks, jesse
The car is a 2003 purchase the first day they were on sale and now has 45,000 miles.
Thanks
Paul
Message #645 by calg May 23, 2004 (9:56 pm)
I just took our 03 Pilot in for it's 30,000 mile service. It was part of the tranny recall, but ... to install a new rear spoiler (under warranty) since ours was warped and we could not open the rear hatch. No sign of any leaking. My husband just drove it from Vermont to New Jersey today and all ...
Message #235 Clock, et al.... by 01r1 Jul 25, 2003 (6:56 pm)
No, haven't ask about the clock, it doesn't bug me. I'm currently trying to get a replacement rear spoiler since mine gets pinched in between the hatch and roof. Also waiting for a new driver's seat track since my seat moves side to side. ...
Message #226 iceranger- by 01r1 Jul 22, 2003 (1:27 am)
I have that same problem too. The plastic spoiler not only rubs on the roof when the hatch is open, but is sometimes gets caught in the gap while closing. It only happens to mine ...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
anyway, I'm sure you can order it through your dealer since it is a separate part and all. maybe even call or email some of the online parts distributors like hondacuraworld or the sponsor link at the top of this page.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks!