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Comments
I can't speak about towing with it as yet.
I recall reading in the Pilot threads about other 'thumps' and bumping noises but their cause escapes me.
- Mark
You said, "the key thing is towing is percentage of total vehicle weigh represented by the trailer."
Markjenn, you may be right...I relly don't know anything about towing. To me, logic dictates that towing is more a factor of available engine torque and frame strength. Why else would the Jeep Grand Cherokee, which weighs 500 lbs less than the Pilot, be rated to tow 1500 lbs more than the Pilot?
So make sure to take the towing capacities with a grain of salt and always make sure to know what your vehicle is comfortable towing, rather than strictly going by the #s published.
-mike
-mike
I own a Silverado and the tow rating is DIRECTLY tied to the engine installed. I am sure the Escape can tow more with the V-6. Toyota also increases tow ratings with the V-6 option and so on.
I am thinking of buying a midsize SUV to replace my 99 Blazer. I have used the Blazer many times to tow, but now I have the Silverado, so the Pilots rating could be OK for me. From what I have read there is no way to keep the transmission in 4th gear for towing, as in the MDX. This is of real concern to me.
If the Pilot has the design where there is no D4 position, I don't understand why they do this. I'm driving a ML320 right now, which is a nice towing package with body-on-frame, low range transfer case, and 5K capacity. It has a simple design where from the D position, you can rock the shifter sideways to manually select any gear, including 4th. I find I don't have to use it much because it has some sophisticated grade logic that once it selects a lower gear on a hill, it will generally hold it until the hill flattens, so there is very little hunting. But I do pop it into D4 in rolling terrain just to avoid extra shifts. (If I trusted MB products outside the warranty period, I wouldn't be looking at the Pilot.)
- Mark
-mike
-mike
Towing has lots of issues. example a Chevy 1500 and 1500HD have different tow rating for the same engine. It all depends on the weakest link (engine, tranny, brakes ect...) But without a good wheelbase and frame/structure you still shouldn't tow much weight.
-j
--j
-mike
- Mark
my $.02
Hi all:
First of all, I LOVE my Pilot. Much more than I thought I would. I love the way it drives. Very quick and nimble. Also, I've really learned to appreciate the simplicity of the instrumentation layout and roominess of the interior.
I've had my Pilot about 4 months and have about 5000 miles on her, all trouble-free until a few days ago when we began experiencing some extended below freezing weather here in the Boston area.
Sometimes I park my Pilot outside overnight. The last two mornings when it's been parked outside overnight, the Pilot started without problem, but then the gas pedal is totally non-responsive in terms of giving gas to the car. I push on the gas pedal, the pedal depresses, but no gas is getting to the engine. The gas pedal is like this until I let the car warm up for a period of time.
My driveway is sort of steep. The first time this happened, I started the Pilot, put it in Reverse and backed down into the street (not realizing that gravity was causing the car to move, not the gas pedal). I then put it in Drive and pushed on the gas pedal. Nothing happened. I pushed again. Nothing. Fortunately, no cars were coming down the road, as I sat helplessly in the middle of the road for a few minutes until the gas pedal became responsive (normal). Kinda scary.
Anyway, has anyone else experienced this non-responsive gas pedal, especially folks in very cold climates ? I wonder if this is somehow related to the starting problems other folks are reporting in the Problems & Solutions discussion area ?
I'll be calling my dealer tomorrow. I'll let you know what they say.
-stuartc
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
We were able to apply the brake to slow it down when coming downhill. We took our foot off the brake. It maintained the same speed. It gets great gas mileage. The ones with leather seats are available heated. But it lacked more than most SUV's in its size.
Its roof rack did not have standard beams like the other SUV's we checked. They were optional. It lacked fog lights which were not available. And no sunroof or moonroof was available.
While the EX's came with a standard power driver's seat, it was not available with a power passenger side seat.
Also, while the front and second row seats were real leather, the 3rd row seat appeared to be some cheap imitation. Needless to say, we did not get it. Plus, we will not get a new car in its first model year of production.
It also lacked a shiftable 4th gear to fully match its 5-speed automatic transmission. My suggestion is to see if 2004's are improved. I hope this helps. There is more.
The EX does come standard with both cassette and CD. The LX is not available with cassette. Let's face it. Most of us still have cassettes as well as CD's. But I can not see paying the EX price for that!
Also, the LX is not available with at least a power driver's side seat. My suggestion is to hold off on buying a 2003 and see if the 2004's are improved. It's all I have on this.
if you want better material in the 3rd row, buy an ex cloth and have aftermarket leather installed. you can get the dealer to do this for the same $1500 it costs for the factory option, and you can even add heated seats for a couple hundred more while they are at it.
I called my dealer and spoke with a service rep. He had not heard of this problem. Since I can't reproduce it, he suggested that I bring it in if I have the problem again and they will try to reproduce it. Makes sense to me.
any car with a spoiler, moonroof visor, window visor, bug deflector, etc. will have leaking water after a wash, as its almost impossible to soak up water where you cant reach it.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I hadn't thought twice about it, but notice that on the rear liftgate, there are two holes with covers that appear to be where speakers 'should' be.
Thanks!
I'm certainly enjoying it, so far.
Questions:
Approximately how many gallons of fuel remain in the tank, when the "Fuel Reminder" light comes on?
Owners manual doesn't help. Just says, the light is a reminder to get fuel soon.
What kind of gas mileage are you folks getting, or what should I expect, to get. I realize the EPA numbers are 17/22. Is that fairly accurate? Did you notice any difference from when it was new, to when it had a few thousand miles?
I've got a pretty light foot. I traded a 98 Short Bed, Dodge Ram P/U,(5.9, automatic) 3:55 gear, HD TOW Package, for the pilot. It Consistently got 13-14 around town, and 18.2-18.8 on trips with mostly Xway driving. On the road, I mostly drive 5 MPH over posted speed limits, with a maximum speed of 70 mph. Around town, I usually give enough throttle to get it moving, then wait for the desired speed to eventually arrive. Exceptions would be when merging. Then it gets as much throttle as necessary.
I don't "RUSH" to get there. But I don't intend to get rear ended either.
Thanks,
Kip
by the way when the fuel light comes on there are approximately 2.7 gallons left
Even if you don't deliberately leave the car to "warm it up" the time that the computer will spend using extra fuel to keep the car up to operating temp IS higher.
The tires may have also lost some pressure, so you have more rolling resistence. Ditto for viscocity of lube. Factor in a few icey patches & some VTM engagement, too.
Heck, even the density of thhe gasoline itself is higher in cold weather. You are sqirting a bit more fuel into the cylinder with every SPRITZ of the fuel injectors...
That said, what is your OVERALL AVERAGE SPEED and MOVING AVERAGE when you are getting that 12 MPG? I would guess your OAS is under 30 MPH and your MA is probably 40+. That means you are spending ALOT of time ACCELERATING, that really KILLS your MPG.
I know the gas mixture changes in winter and the temps have been low but still...
Anybody do any tests between 87 and 93 octane to see the difference?
If you're getting 22 highway with the winter blend, I think you're ok. I would venture to say most folks "city" driving is not in the center of NYC, LA, CHI, etc. but more along the lines of suburban america with the occasional traffic light and not one every city block.
- Mark
Talk about stop and go...it used to take me 25 minutes to drive to sportmart, I could walk there in 5.
My "around town" does consist of some back roads, mixed with traffic lights. There are 11 lights between my home and work. I will generally get stopped by half of them, but, usually don't have to wait for a "2nd" green one, to allow me to go through. So in that 16 miles I might "WAIT" a max of 8-12 minutes at lights.
Pilots first tank yielded slightly over 16 mpg. It wasn't really "FULL" when I picked it up at the dealer. There was 43 miles on the clock, and the needle was slightly below the full line. This tank has 70 miles on it, and the needle is still barely touching the full mark. Judging by that, it should calculate closer to 17+ on this one. In reality, that isn't too bad, considering the weight of the Pilot and the power available. My wife's 95 Maxima gets about 21 under similar conditions. The Maxima requires Premium fuel at 20 cents more per gallon, isn't rated for towing, isn't nearly as heavy, is rougher riding, won't carry as many people, and is much better aerodynamically designed.
The math says, it will cost about $50 more to drive the Pilot 10,000 miles, vs the Maxima. That's considering the Maxima getting 4 additional miles per gallon, but costing 20 cents more per gallon. ($1.29 vs $1.49) I can live with that. :>)
OCTANE:
It is my understanding that the purpose of "OCTANE" is to actually slow down the combustion rate (speed) of the fuel. In days of yore, Gas had LEAD added, to Raise the octane level. Lead doesn't burn real well, but it served well to slow down the explosion time. A car requiring Premium fuel, had the timing set at 10-12 degrees before TDC. This allowed the slower burning Premium to have more time to reach its max, before the piston got to TDC. (Top Dead Center). Cars requiring Regular fuel, had timing set more in the area of 3-6 degrees before TDC. The lower octane regular, flashes and burns quicker. Again, in days of yore, if we put Regular in an car designed for Premium, we would get "Spark Rattle" or "Valve Ping". That was from the quicker burning Regular reaching its potential before the piston reached the top of it's stroke. The explosion was actually attempting to drive the piston down (Backward), while it was still moving up on it's compression stroke. That is pretty hard on the rod bearings, rings, and piston tops.
Todays engines have "Knock Sensors", that "Hear" pinging, and instruct the computer to "Retard" the spark timing to compensate, if Regular is put into a car requiring premium. It does a decent job of controling the ping, but performance and mileage will suffer. Putting Premium in a car designed for Regular reacts another way. The system is designed to Ignite the fuel and have the explosion, max, at a certain time, when the piston is at the top of its stroke. Premium burns slower, so the piston (of the "Regular" engine) has already gone over the top and already moving down, when the fuel reached its maximum energy level. In effect, the longer lasting explosion is ,kind of, following and pushing the piston, rather than "Driving" or "Slaming" it at the proper time. Result, is that, the Premium gas gets about the same MPG, at 10-15% higher cost. It won't hurt the engine, but it doesn't help it either.
Valve timing, compression, manifold designs, etc., all figure into the picture. These manufacturers spend tons of money figuring the best way to go, for their particular engine designs. With a Pilot, Honda recomments using Premium fuel "IF" towing over 3500 pounds. Apparently they want to slow down burn rate for whatever reasons. Otherwise, they recommend Regular! I don't have to understand their reasoning, I will just follow their recommendations!
Tow packages: I strongly recommend a tow package, whether you tow or not. Reason is, the "EXTRA" transmission oil cooler. Heat from towing or heavy traffic, is extremely hard on transmissions. It is probably the #1 killer of them, other than abuse. If you don't want the expense or looks of the receiver, ask about just having the Cooler installed.
Another thought. Get that transmission "Flushed" and "ALL" the fluid replaced, every 30,000 miles. It will cost about $130, and well worth the investment. Normal transmission drain and refills, only replace about 25% of the fluid, leaving 75% of the old stuff in it! That would be like only changing 1 quart of motor oil, instead of "ALL" 4-5 quarts of it.
Ramblings over!
BTW, thanks for input on milage and amount of fuel left, when the "reminder" light comes on.
Thanks, Kip