I paid $300 over list that included the dealer regional charges. I should get the Farm Bureau or College Incentive (I'm an old Grad Student) so that should reduce it by another $500 or $400. At this point, I am glad I decided to order rather than go with the dealer stock. I can give up some of the upscale items(like power windows and door locks,stereo upgrade, power adj. seat etc) for some of the most basic necessities. I figure I got my well-equipped (not loaded) 4x4 Sport 4.7 lsd, tow pkg, sports plus group, etc. for the same price the dealer wanted for a maxed out 2wd SLT. Different strokes for different folks. Can't wait til it gets here. Oh yeah. The dealer had two quad daks in the showroom with leer campers that had an asing price of $1495. Seem excessive, but they sold one of them while I was there. Gotta be an alternative. Some other company must have a more reasonable priced shell. Has anyone found a hard tonneau cover like the one that's available for the Dakota Club?
(reed4) I beleive federal law has established these standards long ago. (In the 60s when HP ratings were non-standardized and somwhat hyped.)
I am sure somone will correct me if I am wrong but I beleive all of todays automobiles are rated with all accesseries turned ON but I am not clear on if this on an engine-dynometer or a rear-wheel dynometer. Good question!
Just stick your head under the back of the truck (or lay down on your back) & look in front of & above the spare - you can't miss the stabilizer 'assembly.' As for the power steering cooler, open the hood, standing just to the driver's side of the front of the engine & look straight down a little toward the radiator (or just locate the yellow service cap) & see the attached (slightly in front of) little oil cooler tubes mounted up & down (they're black metal).
A.R.E has a fiberglass lid available for the QC now. 1495 for the Leer is about 150 more than I was quoted by a cap dealer here. A couple other companies are making caps now (Astro is one), but the Leer is the only one with the flush windows and frameless rear door that I can find, very nice in my book. A.R.E will be making one soon, but from what I can tell it's not out yet. I'll probably order the Leer this weekend, as I need something soon.
Torque and HP figures are measured at the flywheel. You can expect anything up to a 10% reduction in HP at the rear wheels - don't know the difference (if any) between standard and auto HP 'loss'.
Cyoungstrom's numbers are therefore right in there for the HP. I am a bit worried about the torque figure though, that seems awful low - the engine is rated at 295 so that would be a 49ft/lb drop. Anyone know whether rear end makes a difference to this, and if so which one was tested.
Are you getting a bed cover with that? My dealer was uncertain as to what configuration(s), particularly tailgate cover, will fit with the gull, you're right, they list for 995.
OZARK (&OTHERS) - Sounds pretty good to me. I'm looking at the Century cab for my Quad. For $1,000 installed, I get color matched with tinted sliding side windows w/screens. Interior light, flush brake light, short hanging rod, and two locking handles. Roof rack is extra (100-400), sliding pass thru glass extra 125 (I didn't ordered sliding rear window for my Quad... can't reach it from the driver's seat). I was quoted $1,450 from Leer w/roof rack. I still have a couple of weeks to decide what cap I'm getting.
I too looked into the Century. They look nice, but they only have the Ultra series right now. I want the Royal (flush/frameless windows like the Leer). The cost will probably be up near that of the Leer for the Royal I'm guessing.
I'm not sure I like the looks of the Leer 100XQ, they tried to make it look like a Durango, with black wrapping around the front and bottom. I like the looks of a standard cap better, so that means waiting until the other manufacturers catch up I guess.
I'm thinking I'll just pick up an Extang tonneau for now and get a cap this summer when there are more choices.
Anyone have an extang? I'm trying to decide whether to get the one with snaps (classic) or the saber with the "zip-loc" style attachment. The price difference is negligible.
Also I'm waiting on the Bedrug, they say it could be up to another month before they are available.
well i finally got my roll-n-lock on my quad, they had almost 50 orders for the cover before thay had it built and ready for shipment. i love it so far, a friend of mine has the pace edwards and its about the same, but his is not as smooth or strong, and mine locks the tailgate, the pace edwards you have to get a pop n lock or a power lock (with the power lock you loose your manual opening ability). i also installed my oem fender flares, they have been on back order forever. the quad looks awesome now.
Prior to ordering a Quad, I was checking out the LEER 100XQ prices here in central Pennsylvania. One dealer wanted $1,055 to start and another quoted $795. Have to recheck these, I can see that I'm not getting the whole story in either case.
I'm looking at a cap as a way to create a roof rack system to haul my kayak and canoes. Any ideas for a rack system? The truck is essentially 18 ft long and the canoe and kayak are 15 ft.
(reed4) The loss thru the driveline is real (As you offered in your post.) There is DEFIANTLY more loss thru an automatic than a manual xmission.
Although there are very technical reasons for this, Perhaps the easiest to understand is the fact that the automatic gets so HOT that it needs a special cooling radiator. Where do you think all of this heat comes from... IT IS POWER FROM THE ENGINE LOST AS HEAT!! (Power that never reaches the rear wheels)
A manual xmission may get warm but its 'losses' are meshing gears, oil-churn, and some bearing friction... Thats it!
In engineering, the measurement of this heat is a valid way to calculate the losses. Do you recall "Energy is neither created nor destroyed"? It is only converted to another form.
spike 50 and others searching for the elusive caps and shells. Check out the link in post #439 (courtesy of themacguy) for calconcepts. They have some interesting shells and caps. Not sure of the availability of all of them but they have a center opening cap that extends outward and with the addition of bracing makes a rack for kayaks, etc. Might be worth checking out. Very competitive pricing as well. Lots of other shells and caps as well. Good site.
I got the Leer cap for my Quad installed last weekend. I paid 1250 for it in the San Francisco Bay area. It is really nice and solid. The frameless window has great struts and it is fully carpeted. I was told when I ordered a few weeks back that no other maker would have one out till spring so I sprung for the extra bucks.
On another note; has anyone experienced any puddles of what seems to be water under the fire wall on the passenger side? I have a 4.7 automatic. Dealer tells me it is condensation from the a/c and/or heater. this doesn't sound right to me as I have never seen any other vechicle leave puddles... It is definately not oil or antifreeze.
Does anyone know how the rails mount to the bed for the folding cover. I don't want to have to drill holes in my side rails to mount the cover. I also would like to have some kind of bed liner. Right now I am leaning towards a spray in liner. Any thoughts?
At long last, I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it is not an oncoming freight train. I spoke with Ernie this A.M. @ Daimler/Chrysler, and my unit is status "D" and is scheduled to be built the first week in March. He provided me with the VIN and suggested that I speak with him the week of the 02/21 for further update. I am a happy camper. Thank you very much for your continuing input and edification along with education.
Had a similar problems with water in the passenger side of my 93 Cherokee. Dealer service final discovered an unconnected air conditioner hose that drained evaporated water from the unit. Took them awhile though. Don't buy the "it's just condensation" if you really have puddles of water. Other air conditioner problems can cause these symptoms as well. If it stinks/stains up the carpet make them replace that as well. Good luck.
i was looking into the folding also, but they screw the rails to the bed all the way down and also screw a rail on your tailgate. thats one reason i opted for the roll-n-lock, it clamps on except it has to screw on to the tailgate, but i already have a bedliner screwed in there so bid deal. the only thing i didnt like about the roll-n-lock was they had to drill holes in the front of the bad on the vertical wall behind the cab to run the drain tubes from the roll up box.
I had the Doge delaership install the factory under-the-rail bedliner in my Quad Cab. I have a feeling that it wasn't installed correctly. It doesn't conform that well on the rear corners and the edge of the bed, near the tailgate, the liner can be pulled up so you can see the sheet metal of the bedliner. Is anyone elses installed this way?......Is this the way a bedliner is supposed to be? I thought there was an adhesive used to hold down the black plastic liner.
Bookitty, Congrats!! Not to be negative, just an FYI, my truck ordered on 11/22 went D status on 12/12, and didn't go D1 (gateline) until 1/19. Then it was in paint (F I believe) on 1/24 and delivered to the dealer on 2/2.
Things have speeded up quite a bit now though, once it gets on the line you better buy up those accessories cuz you'll have it soon. :-) Good luck.
I love my truck more every day! I've even gotten used to the seat (don't feel like I'm falling off the side anymore :-)
On Tuesday, 2/8, my order for QC placed on 1/17 was moved to "D" status, with a tentative build date of the first week in March. Today, my dealer called to tell me he had received a scheduled ship date of FEBRUARY 17! He said he received this info yesterday, but waited until he checked again today as he thought it was maybe a mistake, but tells me it shows again. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. cyoungstrom
I have been driving manual transmission vehicles most of my life. I currently drive a Toyota Tacoma 2wd 5-speed and recently drove an identical truck with the 4-speed auto and noticed quite a difference in the favor of the manual trans. BTW will be ordering a Dakota Quad Cab in April 4.7l with the 5-speed. Sounds like a blast to drive! Now which rear end? Probably 3.55 since my only towing will max out at about 1500lbs (two Yamaha Jetskis).
(reed4)You are welcome! I have the 3.55 LSD rear end and it is quite suitable. Only the people that have the 3.92 will tell you the MPG is not affected. Simple physics tells us otherwise. Do not get me wrong... For heavy towing, the 3.92 is the best choice.
I have the sales brochure right here is my hands and the 3.55 is rated up to 9,500 GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) The 3.92 adds only 1,000 Lbs to that.
BTW: I was informed by 2 seperate dealers that the LSD is MANDITORY with the 4.7 5sp. Even their computer that orders the truck enforced that rule.
I noticed a puddle of liquid shortly after I brought home my 00 Dakota 4.7 and checked to see if it was oil or transmission fluid, but it was just water. Could be condensation as the dealer said. It hasn't seemed to be a problem with mine.
Reed; I have answered this several times already. Please click on <410</A>> (The LSD is mandatory with the 5sp manual.... not the multispeed Automatic)
Are we talking about puddles INSIDE the truck or soaking into the dirt in my driveway? 410My truck could leak GALLONS of stuff and I would never know it.Pickups If we are discussing water underneath the vehicle after running the AC... this is unquestionably from the evaporator core inside the vehicle which can produce copious amounts of condensation. There is a drain hose leading to underneath the vehicle.
I also noticed the puddle tonight 1/2 hour or so after I got home. I also observed it several weeks ago immdiately after I got the truck. I understand the condensation theory and recognize that the accumulator is not insulated and could condense as well, but how can this be condensing if: 1) I do not use the AC, and; 2) I have left the switch in the floor/vent position without ever changing it for the past 4 weeks.
Humidity is very high today, and may have been the last time I noticed it as well
That is a very good point you bring up about the accumulator... it is right above the spot one person claimed to find the water.
Specifically which position are you referring to when you say... I have left the switch in the floor/vent position without ever changing it for the past 4 weeks. Do not forget that the AC is 'enabled' in most of the selector settings. (An easy way to tell is to stand in front of your Dak while it is idling and listen for the electric fan... it will only be whirring if the AC is on.. it is quite loud)This is only for 2000 models!! (No electric fan in previous years)
I typically leave the switch in the 4th position- Off being first, Max Air (2nd) and Vent AC (3rd). I have not moved the switch as far as I can recall but heck somtimes I can't even remeber the kids names. I assumed this to be a a non-AC position. Tomorrow AM I will check the electric fan and even check the accumulator to see if is is cooling/condensing.
By the way, I noticed that Chevy has a nice 3/16" or 1/4" thick insulating blanket wrapped around their accumulator. I recalled that after test drives in the Dakota last summer and noticed the amount of condensate dripping all over the engine compartment. Ever hear of anyone wrapping theirs to prevent excess condensate from dripping all over the frame etc?
I am seriously cosidering buying a 2000 dakota club cab 4x4, auto, with the 4.7L v-8. I was just wondering if anyone owns that truck and can give me there view on it. For example, how does it handle and feel at high speeds(80mph+), and if there is anything i should consider before buying. I also am a little concerned about gas mileage, so if anyone has any advice on how to improve the mileage i'd appreciate it.
I forgot to ask if anyone has had any problems with the transmission in the automatic, 4.7L. I have heard alot of things about the ram trucks, just wondered if the dakota had a better history as far as transmissions go. also heard that the dakota burns brakes quickly. ant information is appreciated.
With the 4.7L V-8 you get a "multi-speed" auto transmission. This engine and trans came over from the Jeep Grand Cherokee. The Jeep forums contain much praise for the engine, and much bitching about the transmission.
Now come on why do you need to know how it handles over 80. Where do you live because I think Ill avoid that area if you get a quad because the only thing worse than a wrecked Quad would be TWO wrecked Quads. BTW these are still trucks and the drag created above 80 is still quite high.
I live in Colorado. I often take trips to lake powell. the speed limit is 75, therefore I usually drive around 80mph. Doesn't seem to be that outrageous of a question, just wondered if it was an easy vehicle to drive on a long trip. I'm getting a club cab, not a QC. Thanks for the very helpful responses.
i have also followed the jeep forum and the only complaints i really hear are drivetrain related but not part of the tranny or engine, there are a few concerns on a few issues but 90% of problems are driveshaft, rear end and the all wheeldrive system, all of this is unrelated to the multispeed isnt it?
When I saw Above 80 I assumed 80-100 mph. The only truck I have ever had going that fast on the highway ws my 93 lightning, It did ok but the wind drag was noticeable. In the dakota I wouldnt hesitate to say that the engine could handle 80+mph speeds but not the package it comes in. Manuverability is greatly diminished at those speeds for most cars, trucks such as these would be even worse. I will say that 80mph is way different than 95mph and up, that is where the wind drag is way noticeable. Sorry about the misunderstanding.
capone, my 98 club 4x4 with 5.2L cruises the same at 80 as it does at 65 - 70. Very smooth. Extra drag not really noticable (except at the gas pump). Note I have a Snugtop fiberglass bed cover that helps some with drag.
If you are talking interstate and not smaller two lane roads, your highway trips will pose no problems at that speed (as long as the rest of traffic is moving at that speed). These trucks are quite stable at higher speeds from what I have experienced. Just give proper following distance to ensure stopping (heavy trucks = slow stop).
I just recently ordered a new Quad Cab 2wd 4.7 Auto. I special ordered because I couldn't find this package with the 3.92 Anti-spin axle, I also wanted Bucket Seats. Does any one else have this same basic setup, what kind of mileage can I expect? Also I was told my truck would be shipped in approximately 6 weeks, does this sound feasible? JSN
(capone)As others have said, the Dak is very stable at these speeds. In fact one can easily touch 100 with very little effort from the 4.7l. The Rack/Pinion steering is very nice addition on the 4X4 for 2000.
BEWARE The tires, as deleived from the factory, may NOT be suitable for these speeds. The owners manual has deatailed warnings on how to increase tire pressure for limited highway travel. If you expect to travel at these speeds for xtended periods (hours) please consider tires that will be both SAFER and QUIETER.
I have the 31X10.5R15 which are HUGE tires rated LT (Light Truck) and I am quite aware of their speed limitations. They are designed to carry WEIGHT. The only reason I got these tires is because they come with the rear sway bar package. In retrospect, I should have just installed an aftermarket antisway bar for much less $$
Do not let anyone lead you astray... the LT tires have that rating because of the increased LOAD carring abilities by way of STIFFER SIDEWALLS. (And a harsher ride) If you do not intend to carry concrete block or other loads for extended periods... DO NOT GET LT RATED TIRES. You will be rewarded by a smoother, Quieter, better handling Dakota. One person in these forums actually replaced the factory tires immeadiately with P (Passenger) rated tires. One can Sell or store the removed tires since they are still brand new. Perhaps a deal can be struck with the dealer to install highway-worthy tires as part of the purchace.
(bpeebles) Within days of ordering a Quad, the Tire / Handling Group has been a concern. I like the wheel flares, I like the sway bar but I haven't been able to get comfortable having to spin the bigger tires. Since the 31x10.5R15 come on 15x8" wheels, can one find P rated M+S that fit that rim and give you the right circumference? This might be the way to go (P rated) after the package 31x10.5's ware out. I'd like to increase gas mileage, reduce the tire noise and soften the ride a bit for the wife and my back.
I guess the other way to go is with the package P235/75R15XL's on the 15x7" wheels, then buy and install the wheel flares and sway bar on your own. My only problem is paying for two sway bars.
Spike, you might want to look at trying the 30/9.50/R15 size tire for your QC. Still only comes as an LT (6 plys ), but a bit smaller size. i.e. (smaller = easier to turn them over) but still have the look of filling the fender P235/75/R15 just look to small on the truck. Just finishing up purchasing my new 2000 QC 4.7L 4x4 SLT. This one has 31/1050/R15 Goodyear Wranglers on it, but if you look close they are only 4 ply rated tires. LT rated tires should have a 6 ply rating or a "C" rating. Most all 31/1050/R15 are 6 ply in the aftermarket world of tires. If you are considering different tires you might just take a look at those 30/950/R15's. Could be what your looking for?
Thanks for the tire info. When I go to the dealer on Tues, I'll check out the number of plys on their 31x10.5R15's. I'll assume that 4 plys would be a bit softer than a "real" LT rated tire. I guess we're seeing some American Marketing on this one. Like a phrase from an old Frank Zappa song " a little bit cheesy but nicely displayed".
Since I to like the look of the Tire / Handling package, want the stiffer sway bar, I'll take a chance on the tires knowing that I can get something softer / quieter later on.
Final note - Thanks to this forum and #841, I've gotten more and better information on the Dakota than offered by DC. I'm reminded of this every time I talk to a saleman and know what packages and combinations are available, common problems and how to resolve them (hopefully), better than thet do. Nothing like having a "team" on your side when you're about to spend big bucks.
Found this board a couple of weeks ago, and you were all very helpful! I finally took the plunge and ordered my 4x4 Dakota Quad Sport last weekend. I put a bid in on Priceline, but wasn't happy with it (dealer came in $461 above my bid of 3% over invoice). I declined, then called the dealer where I test drove the Quad -- he came within $120 of my bid. So, I was happy with the price. Hardest decision was the color. Couldn't decide between the Patriot Blue or Forest Green. I picked the blue -- but then was told I couldn't get it in the Patriot Blue (only SLT). So, its Forest Green for me. My question: Anyone out there got one in the Forest Green color, and can tell me how great it looks?????
The first truck delivered in W. TX. (San Angelo to be exact - 1 week before Thanksgiving weekend (I drove it) was a Patriot Blue 'Sport' Quad 2wd / 4.7 / auto (beautiful color, but a little 'bright' for me). Anyway, a Green one is on the lot here in Midland, it's an SLT - looks good, too. Has the Driftwood bottom. The color is a very 'rich' Green. You'll love it. Put some body colored Dodge quad tubes & push bar on it, & send me a pix! ;-)
Got the green quad cab two weeks ago. I thought I had ordered the two tone as I had gotten an SLT, but the thought never made it from my head to the invoice sheet!! Not to dispair...I love the green as is-Themacguy-can't wait to do the push bar thing. You'll love it! And no problems so far-got 500 miles on it. Big tires, cd player, trailer pack etc. It's awesome.
Did you get your gull wing tonneau yet? Got your message about the under the rail liner, I'm wondering now if a spray liner might be the better way to go, or do they install those liners so they don't move, keep from scratching inside of bed sides?
Comments
I am sure somone will correct me if I am wrong but I beleive all of todays automobiles are rated with all accesseries turned ON but I am not clear on if this on an engine-dynometer or a rear-wheel dynometer.
Good question!
-Curt
Cyoungstrom's numbers are therefore right in there for the HP. I am a bit worried about the torque figure though, that seems awful low - the engine is rated at 295 so that would be a 49ft/lb drop. Anyone know whether rear end makes a difference to this, and if so which one was tested.
99 Silverado 5.3l Claimed HP 270 Torque 315
Measured at rear wheel HP 173.1 Torque 198.0
99 F-150 5.4l Claimed HP 260 Torque 345
Measured at rear wheel. HP 186.0 Torque 249.6
99 Ram 5.9l Claimed HP 245 Torque 335
Measured at rear wheel. HP 160.4 Torque 219.0
00 Tundra 4.7l Claimed HP 245 Torque 315
Measured at rear wheel. HP 168.1 Torque 201.5
All testing was performed on Paxton Automotive chassis dyno.
I was unaware that so much loss occurs through the driveline. Any technical folks out there offer a more detailed explanation.
Thanks......Reed
Reed
I'm not sure I like the looks of the Leer 100XQ, they tried to make it look like a Durango, with black wrapping around the front and bottom. I like the looks of a standard cap better, so that means waiting until the other manufacturers catch up I guess.
I'm thinking I'll just pick up an Extang tonneau for now and get a cap this summer when there are more choices.
Anyone have an extang? I'm trying to decide whether to get the one with snaps (classic) or the saber with the "zip-loc" style attachment. The price difference is negligible.
Also I'm waiting on the Bedrug, they say it could be up to another month before they are available.
-Curt
good luck all,
robert
I'm looking at a cap as a way to create a roof rack system to haul my kayak and canoes. Any ideas for a rack system? The truck is essentially 18 ft long and the canoe and kayak are 15 ft.
Although there are very technical reasons for this, Perhaps the easiest to understand is the fact that the automatic gets so HOT that it needs a special cooling radiator. Where do you think all of this heat comes from... IT IS POWER FROM THE ENGINE LOST AS HEAT!! (Power that never reaches the rear wheels)
A manual xmission may get warm but its 'losses' are meshing gears, oil-churn, and some bearing friction... Thats it!
In engineering, the measurement of this heat is a valid way to calculate the losses. Do you recall "Energy is neither created nor destroyed"? It is only converted to another form.
On another note; has anyone experienced any puddles of what seems to be water under the fire wall on the passenger side? I have a 4.7 automatic. Dealer tells me it is condensation from the a/c and/or heater. this doesn't sound right to me as I have never seen any other vechicle leave puddles... It is definately not oil or antifreeze.
Bookitty
robert
Things have speeded up quite a bit now though, once it gets on the line you better buy up those accessories cuz you'll have it soon. :-) Good luck.
I love my truck more every day! I've even gotten used to the seat (don't feel like I'm falling off the side anymore :-)
-Curt
cyoungstrom
Reed
I have the 3.55 LSD rear end and it is quite suitable. Only the people that have the 3.92 will tell you the MPG is not affected. Simple physics tells us otherwise. Do not get me wrong... For heavy towing, the 3.92 is the best choice.
I have the sales brochure right here is my hands and the 3.55 is rated up to 9,500 GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) The 3.92 adds only 1,000 Lbs to that.
BTW: I was informed by 2 seperate dealers that the LSD is MANDITORY with the 4.7 5sp. Even their computer that orders the truck enforced that rule.
Reed
Jim
I have answered this several times already. Please click on <410</A>> (The LSD is mandatory with the 5sp manual.... not the multispeed Automatic)
Are we talking about puddles INSIDE the truck or soaking into the dirt in my driveway? 410My truck could leak GALLONS of stuff and I would never know it.Pickups If we are discussing water underneath the vehicle after running the AC... this is unquestionably from the evaporator core inside the vehicle which can produce copious amounts of condensation. There is a drain hose leading to underneath the vehicle.
1) I do not use the AC, and;
2) I have left the switch in the floor/vent position without ever changing it for the past 4 weeks.
Humidity is very high today, and may have been the last time I noticed it as well
Specifically which position are you referring to when you say...
I have left the switch in the floor/vent
position without ever changing it for the past 4
weeks.
Do not forget that the AC is 'enabled' in most of the selector settings. (An easy way to tell is to stand in front of your Dak while it is idling and listen for the electric fan... it will only be whirring if the AC is on.. it is quite loud)This is only for 2000 models!! (No electric fan in previous years)
By the way, I noticed that Chevy has a nice 3/16" or 1/4" thick insulating blanket wrapped around their accumulator. I recalled that after test drives in the Dakota last summer and noticed the amount of condensate dripping all over the engine compartment. Ever hear of anyone wrapping theirs to prevent excess condensate from dripping all over the frame etc?
the Jeep Grand Cherokee. The Jeep forums contain
much praise for the engine, and much bitching about the transmission.
Bookitty
robert
If you are talking interstate and not smaller two lane roads, your highway trips will pose no problems at that speed (as long as the rest of traffic is moving at that speed). These trucks are quite stable at higher speeds from what I have experienced. Just give proper following distance to ensure stopping (heavy trucks = slow stop).
Chad
The Rack/Pinion steering is very nice addition on the 4X4 for 2000.
BEWARE The tires, as deleived from the factory, may NOT be suitable for these speeds. The owners manual has deatailed warnings on how to increase tire pressure for limited highway travel.
If you expect to travel at these speeds for xtended periods (hours) please consider tires that will be both SAFER and QUIETER.
I have the 31X10.5R15 which are HUGE tires rated LT (Light Truck) and I am quite aware of their speed limitations. They are designed to carry WEIGHT. The only reason I got these tires is because they come with the rear sway bar package. In retrospect, I should have just installed an aftermarket antisway bar for much less $$
Do not let anyone lead you astray... the LT tires have that rating because of the increased LOAD carring abilities by way of STIFFER SIDEWALLS. (And a harsher ride) If you do not intend to carry concrete block or other loads for extended periods... DO NOT GET LT RATED TIRES. You will be rewarded by a smoother, Quieter, better handling Dakota.
One person in these forums actually replaced the factory tires immeadiately with P (Passenger) rated tires. One can Sell or store the removed tires since they are still brand new. Perhaps a deal can be struck with the dealer to install highway-worthy tires as part of the purchace.
I guess the other way to go is with the package P235/75R15XL's on the 15x7" wheels, then buy and install the wheel flares and sway bar on your own. My only problem is paying for two sway bars.
Since I to like the look of the Tire / Handling package, want the stiffer sway bar, I'll take a chance on the tires knowing that I can get something softer / quieter later on.
Final note - Thanks to this forum and #841, I've gotten more and better information on the Dakota than offered by DC. I'm reminded of this every time I talk to a saleman and know what packages and combinations are available, common problems and how to resolve them (hopefully), better than thet do. Nothing like having a "team" on your side when you're about to spend big bucks.
Found this board a couple of weeks ago, and you were all very helpful! I finally took the plunge and ordered my 4x4 Dakota Quad Sport last weekend. I put a bid in on Priceline, but wasn't happy with it (dealer came in $461 above my bid of 3% over invoice). I declined, then called the dealer where I test drove the Quad -- he came within $120 of my bid. So, I was happy with the price. Hardest decision was the color. Couldn't decide between the Patriot Blue or Forest Green. I picked the blue -- but then was told I couldn't get it in the Patriot Blue (only SLT). So, its Forest Green for me. My question: Anyone out there got one in the Forest Green color, and can tell me how great it looks?????