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Just look at the cost of the ESP and decide if you think you'll have that much in repairs over the period of the ESP. I stay away from them, because they're priced to make the seller a profit, which means that in the long run, most people won't ever use the ESP beyond their cost. If they did, then the ESP would go out of business. But it's a risk, so if it's going to keep you up at night, then buy it. For me, my experience with Fords (previous owner of a 91 Escort and current owner of 99 Cougar) is that any major problems won't happen until after 100,000 miles, which is after any ESP. And the way I drive, I'll reach 100,000 in about 4 years.
Wow, I can tell you don't live in California...
For California, the Hybrid components are warranted for 8 years or 150k miles.
http://www.autoamenity.com/Body-Molding/Body-Side-Molding.htm
I kinda like the all chrome ones, but the black would work as well. Nice thing is the cost as well as tips being finished off.
www.mjschofield.com">link title
If I reset while doing typical errands (stop and go traffic)around town, I get in the 21 mpg range and if I reset while cruising the highway, I get in the 29 mpg range.
CR should know that and they should adjust their mpg numbers accordingly.
One would argue that sitting at traffic lights is part of city driving...I agree, but it gives false mpg numbers as far as judging mpg average. Isn't the rule that if you have to idle more than a minute than you're better off shutting off your car? I bet their mpg numbers would go up substantially if they did that.
:-)
My point is they are misleading the public with bloated mpg numbers like that. They make the Freestyle sound worse than a Hummer.
My guesss is that they sat in a parking lot idling while they played with the cars gadgets.
My guesss is that they sat in a parking lot idling while they played with the cars gadgets."
I don't think CR uses the trip computers at all. They take the Miles and divide by the gallons used. I have no dout that they got the MPG they reported around town. CR is notorious for putting the "petal to the metal" when accelerating.
BTW, I only calculate mpg manually since I don't have the trip computer (SE) and the best I get is 26mpg hwy and about 22 city, but now it's down to 17mpg maybe because of the cold and warm up periods.
They are custom made and painted. Have finished ends on both ends of each piece (no non-painted exposed ends). My final cost was $150 including painting to match body color and installation. They look like factory moldings. You can look at pictures on the web page. They do not have the Freestyle moldings shown yet as they are a brand new offering - mine were just installed a few days ago by a local auto trim company that ordered them from Dawn's. More expensive, but cheaper than purchasing the Ford 500 moldings and then having them painted. It is still too cold and messy here in Minnesota to get my Freestyle clean enough for pictures, but I will eventually post some.
could you give more detail. My wife wants to play her ipod through the Freestyle. We have the entertainment system. Its cold out, 11pm and I don't want to run out to the garage to see what external inputs the DVD entertainment system has. I have not been in the back seat much. I believe the external inputs were red and white RCA jacks. Is that correct? Do you have a cord with RCA jacks that plugs into the iPod?
Thanks for the additional info. I will take a look in the morning before I go to work.
The highway numbers I posted were at speeds just below 70 mph while using cruise control. I easily get in the high 20's with this method.
All you need is a 3.5mm stereo to dual-RCA plug cord (any Radio Shack should have it, and probably WalMart).
Plug the iPod outputs into the two RCA inputs (not the yellow video input) on the Entertainment System.
On the radio, select the AUX button to play that input.
Note: I have had issues with the AUX button giving me the "No Aux Input" message when doing this. The solution for me has been to always have a DVD (probably a CD would work, too) in the DVD player.
Now, when I hit the AUX button, it will sometimes connect me straight back to the Ipod, but other times it will attempt to connect to the DVD player . . when it does that, I just hit AUX again, and it switches to the aux inputs instead of the DVD.
If you have the rear-entertainment system, you do NOT want to use the PIE adapter from the LogJamElectronics link. Using it will disable the rear entertainment system from the radio and speakers.
You can, though, still use the Drive+Play from Harman-Kardon. Just have the installer route the outputs from it back through the headliner to the DVD players' aux inputs.
thanks much for the additional info. I already had a 3.5mm stereo to dual RCA plug wire in my miscellaneous box of electronic stuff. I had some time after work this evening and gave it a try. It worked as you described on my first try. I will set something up for my wife with a mount for the majority of the time when she wants to listen to the pod.
For when we are on vacation and we want to leave the DVD for the rear seat occupants I think I will buy an inexpensive FM modulator for listening in the front.
thanks,
john
I was curious what tires are coming on the base SE models now? I believe they were originally coming with Continental ContiTouringContact CT95. After reading reviews at various websites, I would replace those asap.
I'm pushing to put Blizzak LM50s on the OEM wheels in 225/60/17, and getting a set of 18s for summer and putting on Kumho Ecsta SPTs in 245/50/18.
I'm wondering if anyone has mounted 245 width tires on the freestyle, or if anyone knows for sure if they won't fit (i.e. rubbing suspension components).
Thanks all!
-Jordan
Mpls,MN
You should be getting the Conti's with your '06. Our '05 LTD FWD in the most recent Chicago storms got through everything with no problems, unplowed, slush, etc.. Our tires are only 6k old so they are still basically new and have most of their tread depth which I believe is integral to their success this winter. If your winter is proving to be a mild one you might just run the Conti's and save the money this season, I'd at least try them first. Their bad rap I think is a little undeserved, We have had no issues that you read about with ours. While not the best tire on the market and I will not be replacing them with same OEM, I don't think they are as bad as people think they are. I have a set of new boxed 18" Montego 15 spoke wheels I will be mounting this spring to set our FS apart. I have not been tire shopping yet but will update what I get when I finally do. I can't speak to teh 245 size as i'm still a stocker but can't wait for spring and new shoes. PS - I am a big proponent/longtime customer of the Tire Rack, it's good to see other people out there as savy with their tire purchases as they are in their selection of the FS... By the way you are going to Love it when you get it, have fun...
One thing about the second-row Husky - they make it appear in pictures and text to be a one-piece mat when it is really two. One piece tucks under another to give full door-to-door coverage for the second row.
I went with the heavy rubber mats from Ford that say FREESTYLE for the front. They are a perfect fit, the color matches the carpet and the wording is a nice touch. The groves have depth, but not as deep as the Huskies. Still, the driver and front passenger usually show more care than the kids in the back so they are fine.
I cound not gind third-row mats anywhere. However, the Ford front mats cone with two second-row mats in the same groovey style but without the name. You can put them in the third row by tucking one end under the seat and the contour flows under the second row for the protection I wanted. It is a nice solution for no additional cost since they come with the front seat mats.
I plan to swap them out in the spring when snow season is over. I will leave the Husky behind the third row year-round. It offers good protection for what gets put back there.
By the way, the AWD and CVT are excellent in the snow andit pulls the passes into the Colorado Rockies with ease.
I cound not FIND third-row mats anywhere. However, the Ford front mats COME with two second-row mats in the same groovey style but without the name.
Steve, Host
Here are a couple of photos of the installation.
In one of the test drives we did last week, we looked at a Limited with the auxiliary climate control system. It was about 32F here (Saginaw, MI area), and it seemed that there was only heat on the driver's side for the second and third rows. There was some discussion of this a while back, but no conclusion. For those with the Auxiliary Climate Control option -- do you find that it works well and is worth the money?
Also - if anyone is interested - the DVD player will not read DVDs with MP3s on it.
Regards,
xnappo
2005 Ford Freestyle
1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
The hood piece is just the right depth for protection and still look good. The hood opens and closes the same as before with no interference. The chrome U-piece on SEL and LTD models is not covered so this grille look is not compromised.
The instructions are all in sketches with no words, so here are a few installation hints. First, put the cover in a warm place prior to installation because there is some stretching involved.
Only two tools are needed, a Phillips screwdriver and scissors. The scissors are to cut the thread holding the panel covering the license plate hole (if you use a front license plate.) Just turn it over and cut the blue stitching to remove the panel. Blue thread is only used on this piece.
The screwdriver is to remove one screw on each side under the wheel well and replace it with one with a snap head on it. However, and this is a big point, you will need a small plastic screw anchor (one for each wheel well) to re-insert to install the screw. I was not able to save the existing one in either case. They are destroyed upon removal.
Once installed, it is easy to remove for cleaning or for storage when the spring thaw arrives.
1. It was delivered with a scratch similar to having been "keyed" about six inches long on the lower section of the driver's side door. It's hardly noticeable unless you are looking for it (as in inspecting it before taking delivery) in just the right light. The body shop guy at the dealership said the scratch is through the clearcoat and that he would have to sand it down, repaint the area, and then reapply clearcoat to the entire door. I'm thinking that might affect the value more than just leaving it alone, and maybe I should ask for a $100 credit at the parts/service department or something?
2. Has anyone noticed that when backing off the throttle the CVT seems to take a few seconds to catch up and start "coasting" or slowing down? It seems like I have to apply the brakes really hard to slow for an exit or a stop and that it's "fighting", the CVT which still seems to want to power forward?
OK, one more. Anybody recommend an XM Radio ready replacement for the LTD 6 CD changer head? I have a Skyfi2 rigged with cigarette lighter adapter and FM modulater velcroed to the dash, but that's only temporary and I can't figure out where the Skyfi2 module will fit anywhere.
Also, check out the forums for recent posts on the XM and audio installations. One person did s great job of hiding the module in the overhead console (look at the flip-down mirror and sunglass areas) and another hid it inside the console area. I'm not familiar with your Skyfi2 unit for sizing, however. Good luck.
That's just the CVT, and it does take a little getting used to. The lack of an immediate slow down when you release the gas, and not the "jump" you feel when you press the gas on an automatic after a stoplight. When you let off the gas, I think the CVT is trying to maintain a constant speed, so it's almost gearing "up" and you get lower RPMs but the same overall speed.
I've had mine for a year now and I don't notice it, but at the beginning it was sort of weird. So on highways, when you're getting close to a car in front of you, when in an automatic or manual you could just let off the gas and you'd start slowing down instantly, with the CVT if I'm approaching a car in front of me too quickly then I have to tap the brakes a little, or shift into Low on the transmission to quicker slowdown. Based on the owner's manual, I don't think there's any problem going into Low gear at any time:
Page 200 of the owner's manual states:
"D (Drive)
The normal driving position for the best fuel economy.
L (Low)
Provides more engine braking when the accelerator pedal is released than D (Drive)."
"REVERSE SENSING SYSTEM (IF EQUIPPED)
The Reverse Sensing System (RSS) sounds a tone to warn the driver of obstacles near the rear bumper when R (Reverse) is selected and the vehicle is moving at speeds less than 3 mph (5 km/h). The system is not effective at speeds above 3 mph (5 km/h) and may not detect certain angular or moving objects. To help avoid personal injury, please read and understand the limitations of the reverse sensing system as contained in this section. Reverse sensing is only an aid for some (generally large and fixed) objects when moving in reverse on a flat surface at “parking
speeds”. Inclement weather may also affect the function of the RSS; this may include reduced performance or a false activation.
To help avoid personal injury, always use caution when in R
(Reverse) and when using the RSS. This system is not designed to prevent contact with small or moving objects. The system is designed to provide a warning to assist the driver in detecting large stationary objects to avoid damaging the vehicle. The system may not detect smaller objects, particularly those close to the ground. Driving
200 Certain add-on devices such as large trailer hitches, bike or surfboard racks and any device that may block the normal detection zone of the RSS system may create false beeps. The RSS detects obstacles up to six feet (two meters) from the rear bumper with a decreased coverage area at the outer corners of the bumper, (refer to the figures for approximate zone coverage areas). As you move closer to the obstacle, the rate of the tone increases. When the obstacle is less than 10 inches (25.0 cm) away, the tone will sound continuously. If the RSS detects a stationary or receding object further than 10 inches (25.0 cm) from the side of the vehicle, the tone will sound for only three seconds. Once the system detects an object approaching, the tone will sound again. The RSS automatically turns on when the gear selector is placed in
R (Reverse) and the ignition is ON. An RSS control on the instrument panel allows the driver to turn the RSS on and off. To turn the RSS off, the ignition must be ON, and the gear selector in R (Reverse). An indicator light on the control will illuminate when the system is turned off. If the indicator light illuminates when the RSS is not turned off, it may indicate a failure in the RSS. Keep the RSS sensors (located on the rear bumper/fascia) free from snow, ice and large accumulations of dirt (do not clean the
sensors with sharp objects). If the sensors are covered, it will affect the accuracy of the RSS. Driving 201
If your vehicle sustains damage to the rear bumper/fascia, leaving it misaligned or bent, the sensing zone may be altered causing inaccurate measurement of obstacles or false alarms.