Hyundai Tiburon

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Comments

  • rwms3rwms3 Member Posts: 7
    Would the 3.5 V6 (sweetly tuned, of course) fit? If so, why not? Hyundai, just cut the crap.

    Unless you're willing to turbo a valve-timed four to compete with the so-called economy and revs of RSX/Celica stuff, go exclusvely V6, and blow the pig or give me bigger. C'mon, all you mourning Camaro/F'bird buyers.. ... Oh, yea, Hyundai, don't forget to finally explore REAR WHEEL DRIVE. ... (Okay, so it'd weigh a bit more)
  • rwms3rwms3 Member Posts: 7
    When warm, the idle stays way high (1400-2000) for a good minute if allowed. Am I alone here?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Adding the power top will increase the price roughly 5k. Mitsu's 3000 GT Spyder was so expensive because Mitsu started with a 45k car and then added the hardware, bring the price to 50k. So, I expect prices to be around 25k for the Tib convertible. I'd take the hardtop convertible Tiburon anyday over a cheaper fabric top. Cloth and vinyl tops wear out after about 8 years of use and they start looking moldy well before that, detracting from the cars looks. They also are easily cut and broken into. The folding hardtop solves all those problems. I'm so excited Hyundai is bringing this car to market!! Maybe I will have my car paid down enough by 07 to trade up. Then I could sell my 92 Miata since I will have the comfort of a closed coupe and the fun of a convertible all in one. Please Hyundai, don't change your mind about bringing it to the US!!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    No idle problems here. My engine has never idled high in warmer temps. As for the 3.5, no it won't fit in the Tiburon's engine bay. You wouldn't want that big, heavy iron block engine up there anyway. It would throw the handling all out of wack and turn it into a huge understeerer.
  • cfbd1273cfbd1273 Member Posts: 18
    I have had a high and rough idle but only when I first start the car on a cold day. It stops after about 30 seconds.

    Got a question though anyone else had there ecm reprogrammed per a recent recall. The dealer I went to did mine automatically last time I was there for a recall (went in to get my brake lines repositioned).

    Car now runs horribly I can only guess it’s from this ecm reprogram. Agh!

    As for the car steering pulling mine has pulled to the right since the day I got it (steering wheel is never straight always cock eyed) been told by 3 dealerships that its every thing from the road sloping to the wheel is just put on wrong and can't be adjusted. Let me know if you can get this fixed.

    Other than that and both door window motors dying this car is great.

    Thanks
  • skuuterskuuter Member Posts: 144
    I was worried about having the ECM upgraded myself. I was in for the brake line repositioning recall and the SW mentioned the reflash. I asked if it would be possible to restore the version I had if performance was affected. I was told the old version could be applied.

    Anyway, I did allow them to reflash the ECM and car still runs perfectly. As for pulling to the right, I've never had this problem when driving normally. All I can relate to is the torque steer on hard acceleration, but that's to be expected on this car.

    I would ask the dealer to reflash your ECM again.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    What were the signs of your power windows failing? My one time fluke with the power window fuse (look up a few posts) has turned into a more major electrical problem. My windows refused to work again this morning and messing with the fuse didn't help. I opened the door and the window suddenly worked. I was at a drive through so once I got my stuff and attempted to put the window back up, it refused to work. I decided to drive straight to the dealer to show them the problem. I messed with the fuse on and off all the way and the window wouldn't go up. And wouldn't you know it, when I pulled up to the dealer, opened my door and then slammed it shut, the window magically started working again. I think I have some kind of short or loose connection inside my door panel, but this is going to be one major hassle to get fixed if it stays so intermittent. I'm wondering if your window problem was the same, or did the motor just die one day?
  • cfbd1273cfbd1273 Member Posts: 18
    My driver’s window stopped all together but I also never played with it I just took it straight to the dealer.

    Dealer said it was probably the motor so they replaced the window motor but it still didn't work. So they tried replacing the wiring harness I guess the electric clips were bad because it worked after they did that.

    This could very well be your problem too you might want to have them run a current through the wire harness and see if they get electricity at the switch.

    Dealer said he has seen plenty of other people with the same problem.

    I have to go back next week though to have both interior panels replaced. I guess nylon pry bars and making sure you have all the screws out before you pull on the door panel is a forgin concept to my mechanic.

    Good luck

    p.s. my passenger window was just a burned up motor but it did work off and on before it went completely.
  • rwms3rwms3 Member Posts: 7
    For whatever reason, the idle on my car now seems to be working properly -- it does not stay up between shifts and quickly drops to about 800 rpm at stops. (It seemed to have "healed" when I floored it in second turning right around a corner at the bottom of an off ramp, keeping it just under redline and lighting up the right front. ...) Could this have something to to with a rev sensor/computer issue?

    As for the slope in the road causing the pulling to the right, mine still pulled right even in the left oncoming lane which slopes to the LEFT. Then again, when I tried to confirm this again yesterday, the car did in fact slowly pull left. The pull to the right has never been severe. I'll keep on it.
  • itsatibitsatib Member Posts: 1
    My Tib is very sensitive to the road's crown especially to the right. When I put on my winter tires there was a slight decrease in the normal right (pull isn't exactly the right word, more like ummm, interest. Yeah, it's interested in the right). When I've positioned it on top of the crown or on a dead level surface it tracks perfectly straight.(when power is neutral) I think it's just a case of responsive & sensitive steering. BTW the tires I put on for snow were Continental ExtremeContact. They've made the Tib the best 2WD vehicle for snow I've ever had. (And I've had a lot of them!)
  • cfbd1273cfbd1273 Member Posts: 18
    Just trying to find out if any fellow tib owners have a light come on when they open there glove box? GT-v6
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    My glove box has a light that comes on only when the parking or headlights are on.
  • redhysteriaredhysteria Member Posts: 3
    I've had my red Tiburon aka Red Hysteria for 7 months and love it..You can view my car w/mods here
    http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/474000nths

    Also want to mention that I didn't buy a Eclipse nor Celica or Mustang for 3 reasons.. #1) everyone owns them, so how unique will u be driving what everyone else has? #2) price on Tiburons are better and you get more for what you pay for... 3) Tiburons look better, love the dual exhaust.. and they stick out.. especially mine..

    I have the V4 5 speed and love it, I added a CAI and I have more HP (12+ approx.), and a nice deeper throaty sound to the engine.. added Platinum-Bosch spark plugs also. My car not a speed demon, but bet I'd rip a part those Civics Honda churns out like candy and overprices them..

    As for my experience (good/bad) with this car, here it is:

    GOOD:
    1: it looks good, unique, has a bit of all the good stuff other car manufacturers have put on their sports coupe (such as the Eclipse, Ferrari, etc).. 2: sound system excellent, however, I added subs, and new H/U (see website). 3: gas mileage good.. I could go on and on, but I'd only repeat what others here have said.

    BAD:
    1: left power window motor went out, replaced a month ago.. 2: wind noise is a factor around sunroof if sliding thing pushed back at high speeds.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Alamogordo, NMMember Posts: 7,615
    I like that shiny red Hyundai sells from the factory, Rally Red. I drive a '01 Kia Sportage but if I were to buy a sports car it would be the Tibby. You've really got yours waxed shiny, looks great! There is something about that look of the headlamps and as you go alonside it those gills behind the wheel wells...it is truly a unique car and I ALWAYS stare at one if I see a '03- Tiburon on the road. I dig the new Tidal Wave blue color, too, although I like it second to Rally Red! Enjoy it!

    2011 Kia Soul Sport 5-speed

  • cfbd1273cfbd1273 Member Posts: 18
    I also went with rally red. It’s an eye catching color.

    Thanks lngtonge18 for the tip on my glove box light. Mine also lights when I turn my lights on, that was driving me nuts. I wonder why Hyundai has it set up like that?

    Fyi- Hyundai dose not install cabin air filters in the Tiburons at the factory I found this out the hard way. Last time the landscapers mowed they used there gas blowers to clean up, well they covered my car with sand. None the less to say it was not a pretty site when I turned my a/c on.

    I spent the rest of the day vacuming my car out.

    The cabin filters are available only through Hyundai for about $50.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I guess Hyundai assumes that if it's dark enough for you to need a glovebox light then you must already have your lights on. It's a common assumption nowadays. Japanese cars are designed the same way. The last car I've seen that has its own switch activated by opening the glovebox is my 84 Rabbit GTI. I will say that the deep glovebox on the Tiburon combined with the small windows and black interior does make it a little hard to see things in the back of the glovebox.
  • cfbd1273cfbd1273 Member Posts: 18
    I am use to domestic cars (fords)that usually had it linked to the closing switch. This is my first forgin car.

    Gas mileage on my last long road trip (over Christmas) I got 29.2 mpg. This was doing a constant 70mph.
  • rwms3rwms3 Member Posts: 7
    I noticed mine works even when the lights or parking lights are off. But then again, I have the dome light set to light up when the door opens (the middle button on the top by the dome lite; i think it says "door" on it.) I suspect your trunk light will come on if you keep the door/dome light depressed.

    Tkanks for the tip on the pull to the right, itsatib.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I need some input from those with a V6. When I start up my 03 GT in the morning and its cold out, it almost never idles fast like every other car I have seen. It normally idles at 1k for a couple of minutes and then drops down to the regular 700 rpm. On a few rare occassions, the idle ramped up to 1500 rpms for 30 seconds, then decreased to 1k, and then 700. My question is, shouldn't the car idle fast every morning, particularly when its below freezing like it was this morning? I know Mitsubishi and Mazda use a step motor to start the idle at 1500-1800 and then slowly drops it down over the course of a few minutes. I'm wondering if Hyundai uses something similar and maybe mine isn't working or if the ECU isn't adjusting it like it's supposed to. It's not a big deal, but it does take a lot longer to warm the car up. I like to allow it time to warm up because the auto tranny shifts harshly into 3rd gear if I don't. Which brings me to another question: Does anyone's automatic have a harsh shift the first time into 3rd gear when the engine isn't warmed up fully? It's a harsh enough shift that it jerks the whole car. After that one harsh shift, everything is smooth again. Anyone else experience this or is your automatic smooth all the time regardless of what the temp gauge is reading?
  • hudraheadhudrahead Member Posts: 169
    intonge: I had a similar problem on my 2001 4 cyl Tibby and it turned out to be a wacko temp sensor sending wrong signals to the OBC. Since both the cold start idle speed and the transmission shift are controlled by various sensors that may be the culprit. You may have to leave your car overnight @ the dealer so they can duplicate it on a "cold" start. It may also have stored some info in the OBC that will tell what is happening. Good luck !!

    HUD :):)
  • skuuterskuuter Member Posts: 144
    Lngtonge18,

    That sounds like normal operation to me. My car does the exact same thing. I usually wait for about a minute for the idle to drop to 700 RPM or so. Seems to do the same in warmer weather, too. I remember reading somewhwhere that it was to ensure the cylinder sleeve liners expanded a bit before you started driving.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    What about the harsh very first shift into 3rd gear? Do you have an automatic and have you ever encountered the harsh shift if you didn't let the engine warm up fully?
  • skuuterskuuter Member Posts: 144
    Never experienced a hard shift into 3rd gear, and, yes, I have an automatic.

    The only time I've ever noticed a hard shift is on a coasting turn (i.e., without throttle) when the tranny has downshifted at about the same time I add throttle. I consider that normal as I am working against what the tranny thinks it should be doing.
  • rwms3rwms3 Member Posts: 7
    I have a six and it does the same thing, Intonge18 and skuuter, regardless of temperature outside. (In fact, it actually idled at start a bit higher when WARM out.) I think the computer determines the idle at start up regardless of temp outside. The manual says it has no warmup time.
  • cfbd1273cfbd1273 Member Posts: 18
    Its TSB number 02-40-019

    This should fix your hard up or down shift. For me it was 2nd to 3rd and out of 2nd to 1st.

    They have to reprogram the shifts.

    Worked for me my car never shifts hard in any gear anymore.

    Good luck
  • vthokiejjwvthokiejjw Member Posts: 1
    I bought '03 Carbon Blue Tiburon GT 6sp in April and love it. I am at about ~6500 mi

    I got the recalls taken care of... I didn't experience anything negative from the ECM update.

    Does anyone experience any un-necessary moisture? The only problem I had was with my windows not rolling all the way up. They didn't go up far enough to get under the trip lip. I took it in pretty immediately. They adjusted it, but messed up my door-pull, which they had to replace. Even now, when I take it though the car wash, a high pressure water rinse will cause a drop or two of water to still come in. Anyway... in the last couple months, I have noticed that my windows fog up pretty often, warm, cool, whenever... The dealer said its just the defroster automatically turning on the A/C. I don't buy it... They checked the weather seals and said everything is fine. I very rarely have my windows open and use the Defroster with AC, to dehumidify the interior air... anyone else getting foggy windows... <get your mind out of the gutter! ;) >

    I too experience a slight pull to the right... Since many people have listed that on this site... it sounds like a global problem we just have to live with?

    One last thing... in the snow, my car slips quite a bit. I don't gun it or any tying... even when breaking I found myself slipping quite a bit. I was thinking about getting some 16in wheels and snow tires for the winter... any suggestions?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Do you know exactly what they did when they reprogrammed the shifts? Did it involve disconnecting the battery and then driving the car to let the computer learn new shift points or did they do something else (like hook up their computer and reprogram the shift algorithms)? I have tried disconnecting the battery and letting the computer relearn my driving. It seemed to help some, but not completely. My automatic isn't horrible, just not the best either. For the most part, it shifts fine. It just has the hard shift into 3rd gear the first time in the morning and it sometimes clunks/bumps as it downshifts into 1st gear (first to 2nd upshift can be firm sometimes too). If Hyundai has anywhere they need to improve, its in the refinement of their trannys.
  • cfbd1273cfbd1273 Member Posts: 18
    is the diagnostic computer they use to reprogram the shifts.

    Basically they do a ride along and develop a (flight record).

    Then they look at how the TCM runs the gears if after a manual correction from the hi scan the problem gets better they have to replace your TCM.

    I have the TSB that I can email if needed.

    This car does have a (strong shift) from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 2nd. As far as I know nothing fixes this it&#146;s just a characteristic of the tranny but mine did improve when they swapped out the TCM.

    Have you checked a/t fluid levels too?

    Good luck.

    PS nope all the battery disconect does is unlearn the computer. So if your TCM is bad it will just go back to the way it was before.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I would appreciate you emailing the tsb. My email is [email protected] Thanks!
  • mike91326mike91326 SoCalMember Posts: 251
    I was looking at the specs for Hyundai&#146;s HCD-8 concept and saw where it had a supercharged version of their 2.7 Delta motor that put out about 250 horses. Imagine if they dropped this motor in a Tib GT-V6. Even if it bumped the price another 2 grand it would be the best bargain on the road. Hyundai, if your reading the boards, hint, hint.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Well, I've passed the 10k mark and so far everything is going good. This car has proved to be better then my former 03 Suzuki Aerio and 00 Accent. No dealer repairs so far and nothing gives me the impression this car can't last the long haul. In fact, this car has required less service then my newer and more expensive 03 Mitsu Diamante. Besides the sometimes odd shifting automatic and harsh ride over bumps, I don't have any complaints. The sound of the engine as it revs above 3k is simply intoxicating. I swear it sounds like a high strung race engine. Kudos to Hyundai for designing an engine that sounds so good despite its modest power output. The car has remained quite solid and rattle free. No small feat considering I live on a rutted bumpy dirt road that flexes the car's structure quite a bit and my daily commute consists of man hole covered city streets. I have noticed the sunglass holder/maplight fixture creaks when the car's body flexes. But this is only in extreme conditions and not a constant annoyance. If anyone has encountered this and found a fix, please let me know. The brakes have gotten considerably stronger as the miles piled on and the engine feels a bit stronger. Fuel economy has stayed steady at about 22-23 mpg in pure city driving (not bad at all for a V6 auto).

    Overall, an excellent car. I'm quite satisfied with its performance, looks, comfort, and reliability. I only wish for a slightly cushier ride and a better automatic.
  • friedbaconfriedbacon Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone know where I can find the production numbers for the 2003 Hyundai Tiburon?
    Also, has anyone change their brakes yet? If so, what was the total cost?

    Thanks.
  • joe249joe249 Member Posts: 95
    I think it's cutomise Tib. Isaw one ay the mall. Is this a pakage deal?
  • silveraesilverae Member Posts: 3
    I've read a number of customer reviews on the Tiburon that stated numerous problems they have had with the clutch. However, they were from the 2003 model. Is this still an issue with the 2004, and is it a major problem as well?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Early 03 Tiburons did have a problematic clutch on V6 models. Hyundai supposedly made improvements halfway through the year that got rid of the problem. Those that have had their clutch replaced under warranty have reported no further problems. I think it would be safe to get an 04 Tiburon equipped with a clutch.
  • luxyluxy Member Posts: 4
    Very interesting observations. I think the difference between American and European way of driving should be observed from two different points: personal driving skill and driving regarding traffic and road conditions (driving culture, laws, road quality). The difference in both of these aspects can be accounted to laws.

    For example, in Europe it is much harder to get driving licence (10 or more hours of theory and 30 or more hours of driving experience). It is forbidden to drive if you're not over 18 (I think it's 16 in the US). So, at the very start you get more older and experienced drivers on the road. You'll agree that you can apply much different regulations to a person who is 18 than that of 16.

    I think US law is much more concentrated on quantity of driving (get everyone on the road- from kids to eldery, because it is a neccesity in the US - Europe has a big and fast railroad network for those who don't drive). Europe's laws are more concentrated on quality of driving - don't allow so many people to get on the road, but those who get on make sure they know what they're doing. So the overall rules of behaviour on the highway are much more strickter. There's no overtaking in left lane on highways - and I mean NEVER. You're driving over 120 miles an hour, no problem as long as you don't endager other participants in traffic. But if you break one of these strict rules like overtaking in left lane, showing finger to someone, blinking, throwing garbage out of your car you better not be there.

    As far as road quality is conserned I can compare highways of Croatia (my country), Italy, Austria, Germany, Hungary, England etc to those of Pittsburgh, Chicago and New York area. Overall I think American roads are bult to last much longer than those of Europe (concrete highways vs asphalt highways). The drawback of durable concrete highway are those annoying cracks between concrete blocks which enhance roadnoise and decrease speed at which you can travel. Asphalt highways of Europe have to be fixed much more often but give you more smooth ride and better control of your vehicle.

    Dougndo, I don't think European drivers are better than American or vice versa, but it's the difference in these parameters that allows European drivers to use more high velocities that American.

    And about those crashes that look like airplane crashes - you are absolutely right - I always drive more careful (for a while) when I see one of those.
  • jhpmichealjhpmicheal Member Posts: 14
    i was told by a korean friend who actually works for hyundai motor company. At that time it was time for me to get a new car (i have 98 Civic si). I was thinking of buying rx8 but then my friend says to wait 2 more years. b/c 06' model will change "everything". but this time it will be costly...he showed me the new specs for 06' model tiburon GT (turbo) lineup: 18' alloy, supercharged Delta engine apprx. 250 horses (wow! hyundai can do that?), RWD, and the amazing thing is that it is a two seater!!(Is it a Hyundai?). But don't rely on this info too much...it might change...o yea it is from the HCD-8 concept. but they changed FWD to RWD...
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    While the next Tiburon may have those features, don't expect it as early as 06. Going with Hyundai's typical 5 year redesign schedule, the next Tiburon isn't due until 2008. The above stats sound interesting, but I think it would be a shame to lose the rear seat and 18" wheels should be optional, not standard. I'm one who thinks that wheel sizes are getting out of hand. 16" is plenty big for me. I don't know about everyone else, but I can't afford the extremely high prices and short lifespan of tires bigger then 16".
  • srz948srz948 Member Posts: 74
    It was great to see that Hyundai tied with Honda for 2nd place in the JD Power Initial Quality survey. I can also report that my sons 2000 Tiburon with 45k miles has just had its first repair under warranty. The axle seal at the transmission had a leak and the right front wheel bearing was shot. My 2003 GT V6 Tiburon now has 7k miles on it and has been mechanically trouble free. I do have the transmission gremlins that others in the forum have spoken about, which may have to be addressed in the future. However I do have some very annoying interior buzzes and rattles. The worst seems to be located behind the rear speaker grills. Overall a fantastic car. Just those damn rattles!
  • rwms3rwms3 Member Posts: 7
    I, too, have a few squeaks and a buzzing sound on rough pavement, but not bad enuf to force me to seriously check out where it is coming from on my 03 GT V6 5M. I think the seal on the hatch might be rubbing; maybe some WD 40. . . If your rattles are driving you nuts, srz948, you should take it to the dealer and demand they fix it under the warranty. Seriously. If it's a bad, annoying and frequent rattle, they should find and fix it.

    As for my car otherwise, I really like it, tho it could use a supercharger. BUT. . . what I have noticed is that after 7800 miles, my front tires are worn, more on the inside than the outside, and the right front is nearly bald. Now, I live in the foothills, with lots of twisty roads, but still, not even to 8 grand yet and I need to replace the tires? I think not.

     I had mentioned a slight pull to the right. Now I know there must be a problem. And it's not like the dealer ever denied it; they just couldn't figure it out. But now there is simply no denying there is a problem. Now they will have to. Just call me when it's done, dealer, I'll be the one driving around in a rental at your expense!

    Anyone else have undue and uneven tire wear?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    No unusual tire wear here (03 GT automatic). I have 11400 miles and the front tires have been on the front for at least 9k. The tires appear to have a good 25k left on them. You definitely have a problem somewhere.
  • donniedonnie Member Posts: 24
    I recently purchased a 2000 Tiburon, pretty much loaded including the best factory AM/FM--cassette/CD player radio. The AM band is impossible--with static and whirring noises when the engine is on. When the engine is off, no problema! I had an '86 Honda CRX with a Radio Shack cheapo AM/FM and never had a problem like this! What might be causing this interference? Has anyone else experienced this? If the radio acted this way when it was new, I can't believe anyone would buy the car. HELP!
      Don R.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    The engine's electrical system is likely causing the interference. The only thing you can do is add an electronic filter that will tone down the interference some. These can be bought at Radio Shack I believe. To be honest though, so few people listen to AM that probably no one would notice a problem like that. I've never used the AM on any stereo of mine.
  • mike91326mike91326 SoCalMember Posts: 251
    Make sure the correct type of spark plugs and wires are installed as that is where most of this type of problem comes from. If they're correct, then the spark plug cables should be replaced with low noise cables.
  • srz948srz948 Member Posts: 74
    I too had the problem with static on AM in my 2000 Tiburon. The inteference seemed to be tied into the heater/ac fan motor. As you increase the fan speed the noise gets louder. Anyway, my son replaced the radio with a Sony am/fm/cd/mp3 player. Not only has the inteference disappeared but the sound through the standard Hyundai speakers is fantastic.
  • claireclaire Member Posts: 3
    I have had my Tiburon since January of this year. It's a 2003 bought new. I had a problem with it pulling to the left upon hard braking. I took it in and they had to grind the rotors as they were uneven. Since they did this there's no further problem
  • zinkentierzinkentier Member Posts: 2
    IS my dream car... I never was into cars that much before seeing one of these in action. Alas, i am but a HS student and lack the means of purchase. 'Tis a shame... So.. if anyone has, you know, 18K or so laying around...;-) But anyhoo I'm not sure... right now i own a POS 94 sentra and am looking to ameliorate my automotive status in the future... JW if the Tiburon is a good idea. Whereabouts should the prices stand on a (used) 2004 model in the next couple of years?
  • donniedonnie Member Posts: 24
    I thought the headlights were not aimed properly, so I took my beautiful yellow Tib to a local dealer (sob!). They charged me $43 to aim them but when I took it out that night all that I noticed is that the outboard hi/low bulb was out and the aim was no better than before! Then I noticed the hi beam inboard was out. In trying to put a new bulb in the inboard, the clamp that holds the bulb sprung out and when down into "never-never" land, under the radiator(?). Can't find it (Murphy wins again!). Went back to dealer, asked to buy a new clamp (looks like a paper clip), was told can't get clamp, only come in conjuntion with a new headlight assembly. For a mere $350+ I can get my hi beam headlight working again! Are they kidding? Does anyone know if it is possible to get just the clamp for a few bucks? Also, can the high beams be adjusted(owner's manual sez the lows can be adjusted but the highs have to be done at dealer's). Why? Love the car but......
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    For $44.00 the dealer service probably looked at your pattern and said close enough.

    The spring clip that you lost:

    1) You can copy the clip on the other headlight and make your own. You wont be able to use spring steel like the manufacter did but stiff wire.

    2) You can look for a spare headlight on Ebay. I bought two for my Elantra GT for $85 each.

    3) Hyundai has a geat site called Webtech that lists the alighnment instructions for your car.

    SERVICE MANUAL
      Applies to: Tiburon 1998-2000
    GROUP
    Body Electrical System Exterior Lamps

    &#65279;
    HEADLIGHT AIMING ADJUSTMENT

    Before performing aiming adjustment, make sure of the following.

    Keep all tires inflated to the correct pressure.

     
    Place the vehicle on level ground and press the front bumper & rear bumper down several times.

    See that the vehicle is unloaded (except for full levels of coolant, engine oil and fuel, and spare tire, jack and tools).

    Clean the head lights lens and turn on the headlight (Lower beam).

    Open the hood.

    Adjust the vertical indicator by turning the adjusting bolt with a Phillips screwdriver.

    The bubble in the gauge should be in line with the reference line.

     
    Adjust the horizontal indicator by turning the adjusting gear with a Phillips screwdriver.

    The indicator should be in line with the "O" line.

     
    ADJUSTMENT AFTER HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

    If the vehicle has had front body repair and the headlight assembly has been replaced, the headlight aiming should be checked using the timing chart as shown in the illustration. Turn on the headlight switch (Low Beam Position).

    Adjust headlights so that main axis of light is parallel to center line of the body and is aligned with point P shown in the illustration.

     
    Dotted lines in the illustration show center of headlights.

    "H" : Horizontal center line of headlights from ground. 23.3 in (593 mm : With driver)

    "W" : Distance between each headlight center. 42.1 in (1070 mm)

    "L" : Distance between the headlights and the wall that the lights are tested against. 118.11 in (3,000 mm)

    Even if the horizontal indicator does not align with the reference line or the vertical indicator bubble is not centered in the reference line after aiming by the chart, it is acceptable if they are within the O.K. ranges.
  • donniedonnie Member Posts: 24
    Thanks loads for the suggestions! I'll try the adjustments...but I don't see any leveling bubbles. Donnie
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