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2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Well that makes it easy, the major carrier stated they would need "A BIG BLUE PHONE!"...... I don't know why.... They never pick up.
NATIONWIDE is NOT on your side, especially if one of their agents decides to go on a wrecking binge and your vehicle (parked) is in their gun sights.
As far as revealing the local insurance carrier, I'll let that go for now - (attorneys and all), an additional party with a mild interest may be the state insurance commissioner....
Hmmmm, all I can think of is that is a state thing, and state laws differ. If that happens just as you mentioned, your state is getting screwed out of a huge chunk of state sales tax, as that $17K would never had sales tax paid against it.
Once I had purchased a vehicle I was leasing when I traded it in because the trade in was much higher than the lease payout, and I had to pay sales tax because I technically bought it from the leasing company and then traded it in.
Somehow some way the state is going to get theres.
Here in GA we have a consumer-advocate radio host, Clark Howard, who, apparently really does investigate these "frauds" and exposes them on the air if he determines them to be true...
A few years ago, I think it was Bank of America that pulled some shenanigans with a citizen...Clark investigated it and found it to be true (I believe I am telling this correctly)...he suggested, on the air, that folks withdraw their money from BofA because no one should be abused like that...I think within a week many millions of $$$ (Maybe hundreds of millions, I am not sure, but enough that BofA noticed and knew it was Clark who was the source) was withdrawn by account holders...
I assume that the original complainer had their situation corrected, but I don't know, but even a bank as large as BofA noticed...this was long before any Tarp or bailouts, BTW...
Now while this sounds like a victory it very well may not be... I am not going to run the lease numbers again but getting money back could mean that I was actually overpaying for the car. On the otherhand it could just mean that Honda Civic Si's resale values just hold up very well.
It doesn't really matter anyway you/I want to look at it though. When I got the car I had done my usual diligent research and felt was paying a fair amount on the lease (got the car with zero out of pocket, then just 35 payments) did not have to pay my deductible and getting a small refund (my round figures posted show $1000 but it was less) so I really can't complain. Plus already in my new lease also with nothing out of pocket except the 1st month.
Thanks for all the input and everybody have a nice summer!
Relatively minor damage, probably under $3K maybe even less. Almost didn't bother. After couple days, get insurance co. call, gonna cover the $10K in damage....WHAT??? There are things listed on the estimate that clearly weren't part of the original damage.
The auto body place has apparently "embellished" the original damage. My car will be fixed but, WTH! This is why insurance is so high!
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
The body shop usually has to get an adjustor to approve the damage - they simply can't just start fixing what they feel. If you feel there is something fishy, get the insurer involved.
The adjuster shows up and just acts like "pretty good dent there, we'll tell them to fix it" when the vehicle has incredible frame damage and dismisses all estimates that include, at the very least, a frame inspection.
We had one estimate that we just laughed at, it was so embellished and ridiculous but at the same time, we laughed at the insurance companies assessment of the damage (Nationwide), completely ridiculous.
We got "inside" the whole process with a friend in the body shop business and he looked at our busted up vehicle and said the shop that wanted to repaint a section of the vehicle that wasn't even close to the damage area was "full of s^%^, but also said; "If the adjustor says you can fix it for that amount.... He's an idiot!".
Final note, The truck got out of the shop and one of the emblems (Nationwide wanted to re-use the original) started falling off the truck!!!
We instantly called the body shop and he said "We always try to tell these IDIOTS at Nationwide that re-using these parts never works!" and said to give him a couple days to get the OEM parts in, more money and time wasted because of Nationwide....
The Big Blue Phone obviously has a moron (or cheapskate) at the other end...
Please give me a hand.
It was my fault to back up and wipe another car. My car has a little damage in its rear bumper.
I have a full coverage insurance, should I claim my car insurance to fix the rear bumper?
Please give me some advice.
Thanks,
Dan
To re-skin and paint a bumper on most cars, to do it right I mean so it looks great and lasts a long time, would cost maybe $600--$700. If your deductible is $500, obviously it would not pay to make a claim. If you have 0 deductible and the damage is substantial, then maybe yeah, you could make a claim. Also a lot would depend upon your prior claims history, as to whether they'd jack you or not.
I've heard a Rule of Thumb to not make a claim under $1500 damage, but that seems a bit high to me, because it really depends on your deductible amount and your history.
I practice what I preach and paid for my own damaged bumper two years ago. I got a cheaper job done (from a mobile unit that services used car dealers) for only $200 because I was selling the car, and from 10 feet it looked fine, but up close it looked like a cheap job (some overspray, rough surfaces, misalignment).
As for repairing your bumper, I don't know where others get their figures of repair, but our plastic rear bumper was repainted base coat clear coat for $100 by a retired body shop manager.
Best scenario: Other car = unoccupied, minimal damage to it, you pay.
Your car = repaired by a qualified bodyman on his day off.
"The purpose of insurance is to prevent a financial catastrophe, not pick up maintenance claims."
If there's any cracks or digs in the bumper that need filling, it all has to be sanded and repainted. The technique is they repaint part in the color paint, if possible, and use a clearcoat over the entire piece so that it looks continuous and new.
If it's only surface discoloration from the other bumper or object, you might need to try using a good cleaner wax or a scratch remover for clearcoat to see if the other color will rub off. If not if probably dug into your paint, and any touchup as Mr_S says is a touchup that will show.
Depends on what ya got.
How about posting a picture?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The damage is just little cracks and the bumper is pull off a bit from one end.
I don't know how much it costs to fix it, yet and I will check the insurance's policy to see what the deductible is.
From your experience, it is depended on deductible and if repair cost is not less than $1,000, don't claim, is that right?
1/. I wonder if I claimed, would my next year insurance charge increase more?
2/. I received a claim form from insurance, should I be silent if I don't want to claim? or just call her and inform her I don't want to claim?
Thank you very much,
Dan
shotbottle of single malt 21 year old Scotch) WOULD be nice...The damage is just little cracks and the bumper is pull off a bit from one end.
I don't know how much it costs to fix it, yet and I will check the insurance's policy to see what the deductible is.
From your experience, it is depended on deductible and if repair cost is not less than $1,000, don't claim, is that right?
1/. I wonder if I claimed, would my next year insurance charge increase more?
2/. I received a claim form from insurance, should I be silent if I don't want to claim? or just call her and inform her I don't want to claim?
Thank you very much,
Dan
For insurance to fix the other car you struck should be no out of pocket expense to you, but you must weigh it against the potential premium increase you could suffer...so, if the repairs to the other car are under $1000, you might want to pay it yourself...
Now, if I was advising the other driver, I would tell them to be sure to have a police report to make a claim on the at-fault insurance, in case you don't, ah, uphold your end of the bargain...
Frankly, I never trust the at-fault driver to do the right thing, simply because they often don't...
Now, if the other driver suffered ANY injuries at all, disregard this post, report it to your insurance immediately, and let them handle it from start to finish, so you are protected against an injury claim that you cannot afford to pay...and be prepared for a premium increase and live with it...
I also forgot to mention that we, both sides made reports and the other car got repaired.
So, my concerns are:
1/. I wonder if I claimed for my car fixed, would my next year insurance charge increase more?
2/. I received a claim form from insurance, should I be silent if I don't want to claim? or just call her and inform her I don't want to claim?
Thank you very much,
Dan
In Portland the Noon News advertiser Maaco says it will paint any bumper for $100.
"oh, you want us to WASH it before we paint it?"
1/. I wonder if I claimed for my car fixed, would my next year insurance charge increase more?
2/. I received a claim form from insurance, should I be silent if I don't want to claim? or just call her and inform her I don't want to claim?"
NOW the cost of repair vs deductible comes into play...if your deductible is $500 and the repairs are under $1000, pay the repairs yourself, and tell the ins co that you don't want to make a claim...if repairs are over $1000 and your wallet cannot handle it, make the claim and be done with it...
Caveat: your prmeiums may have already gone up because you caused the accident and the other vehicle needed repair, so the damage (vehicle) and the damage (premium increase) may already be done...
I was involved in an accident a week ago today. Other party's fault. I was headed straight, the other party was attempting to turn left into her side "drive" to her house. She turned in front of me and I collided with her. Those are the major details. There were officers at the scene, a police report was taken, however no one was cited. I haven't obtained the police report yet (it was supposed to be ready today) so I don't know what it says, however I have been in contact with the other party's insurance mostly and with mine only a little. They are accepting 90% responsibility, at least in regards to taking care of my vehicle.
So far it has been a pretty painless process except for the fact I have been out a vehicle for a week and will still be for probably at least another while they wrap up their investigation. They are being sticky about a rental because of the 90% and so I will be on my own for that and then submit the bill and they will reimburse me for 90% of it. At least according to them. I tried to go through my insurance for the rental and they said they would subrogate (sp?) it, but after a run-around with them they said they couldn't do just a rental. They would have to do their own full investigation, vehicle inspection and so forth and then go after the other insurance for all that. The other insurance has already inspected the vehicle, declared it a total loss and all I am waiting for is for them to get back to me with a value.
I felt that it would be bass-ackwards to have my insurance go through all that when the other insurance has already done it all and accepted responsibility for the accident. So if I want a rental for the rest of the duration of the claim, then I would be responsible for it first, and then I would be reimbursed for it. That really isn't a big deal. It would be VERY helpful to have that rental as it would relieve a burden as I am stretching one vehicle between two people, but I'm making it work.
So that's the short end of the story. Now that I know the vehicle is going to be declared a loss, I am curious as to what kind of value to expect. Here are the vehicle details:
(and perhaps this isn't exactly the correct forum for this either)
Vehicle is free and clear of any liens and I have the title
2001 Chevrolet S-10 2WD Extended Cab LS
4.3 V6 Automatic Transmission
Has most basic options and Kelly Blue Book values it at around 6K
A quick check of Autotrader.com and Cars.com has several similar trucks, albeit with lower mileage, but smaller motors anywhere for 5K (several thousand more miles, but a base model with a 4 cylinder motor) to 8K for a very similar truck with the same basic options but with several thousand fewer miles.
Mine wasn't in FANTASTIC condition, but the body was straight, paint was good, it ran excellent and was well maintained. To look at it, you wouldn't know it had high miles (140K)...
I have a figure in mind of what I think is fair and it's about 6K or so after doing my research of the several ads I found. My one demerit is my high miles. But the lowest price I found for a similar truck was 5K for that 165K 4 cylinder base model. So using that base line, I think mine is worth a little more than that especially with a larger motor/transmission and higher trim line and fewer miles...
So any suggestions on what I should do from here?
(on the plus side of things... neither me, nor the other party was injured. I am not pursuing a medical claim nor is she (that I am aware of). She did make a claim against my insurance, but they have already shut it down because they have determined I was not at fault. The other party's insurance isn't coming after me for the 10% to their vehicle, they're just going to be responsible for 90% of "repairs" of in my case the total value of the loss. In which I deem to mean that if they say my truck is worth 6K, I'll get 90% of that.)
I don't know where you live, but where I live, there is no such thing as "90% responsible". Either the other driver is at fault, or she isn't. If she is, it's her insurance company's responsibility to compensate you... If they aren't doing that, get your company involved... Even if you get stuck with paying your deductible while waiting for them subrogate, it will probably be cheaper than paying the "10%".
Not an expert..
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There IS a concept called "comparative negligence" where fault is apportioned by percentage...why you are given 10% is beyond me, unless you were speeding even tho you had the straight right of way...I am aware of three types of automobile laws and they are "comparative negligence", "contributory negligence" and "hybrid comparative negligence"...I will explain later as I am off to work...Georgia is hybrid comparative negligence...
HEY, I don't make these terms up, someone else does... :P :confuse: :shades:
Your brother hit the tire. Therefore he bears responsibility, too, under that theory.
I suspect this is a case where the assured clear distance concept is the governing concept. Your brother should have been following at a proper distance to avoid road hazards--one car length for each 10 mph.
If the truck which lost the tire is identified, there might be responsibility there. But if you were on a jury would you place blame on the truck company which has little control over a tire blowing out?
I was behind a flat trailer on I70 a couple weeks back. This was the type that might have a backhoe or bulldozer loaded onto it--low height bed. We heard and felt a huge vibration. I thought we'd been hit with something falling off a plane. As I watched, the bits of rubber started flying out from under the empty flat trailer. I immediately slowed and prepared to dodge any large bits even if it meant going onto the paved shoulder.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Striking something on the road that then hits your car is NOT the fault of the driver in front of you...had it come directly off that vehicle, your argument is good...but if I run over a hibcap and it flies up and breaks your windshield, tough luck for you...pay for it...no negligence on my part...
My son hit an old tire in the road a few years ago during 70 mph rush hour traffic on an interstate. He said the only option he had was to hit the tire. He was charged with an at fault accident.
A couple of years ago some sort of steel plate fell off a truck on the interstate, came thru the windshield of the car behind and killed a lady. The driver of the truck was charged with manslaughter. Reasoning was that he had not secured the load. I don't remember how the case turned out.
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
I don't know how it all settled out but it did turn out that it happened more than a couple of times on that particular model.
I was not found at fault.
At that point I gave up I was so frustrated and then they told me an adjuster had been assigned. I called her, but it was the end of the day bybthem so she obviously didn't get my call until this morning. She obviously pulled some strings and was able to get a rental set up and so that is taken care of. Now just waiting for a settlement from the other insurance.
I'm also getting the police report today to see what if says. I'm curious about this 90% deal. I understand it and can't really argue because perhaps I could have done something to prevent the accident, but she did turn in front of me and I definitely wasn't in the market for a new truck. Even as old as it was, I really didn't want to get rid of it. It was a fantastic little vehicle. So if I could have done anything to prevent the accident I would have...
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
houdini: I always just figured that you work for Marsh & Mclennan...no, marsha7 is named after the
witchI mean, my wife...oops...tell no one...euphonium: "Still wonder where the 10% comparative neg is based?"...I would confront the officer, politely, and ask why you have any negligence at all when you were driving straight and the other driver cut you off...granted, I wasn't there, but this sounds like a 100-0 ratio to me, at least if your description is accurate...
All: if a part comes off YOUR vehicle, you can be deemed negligent since you are responsible for maintaining your vehicle...there are some instances where there may also be a product liability suit if the product itself was defective, or a negligence suit if your mechanic failed to tighten lug nuts, but if you simply run over something in the road, it is rarely your fault...
Of course! You were clearly driving at speeds unreasonable and imprudent for prevailing conditions. :P
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
VALUE: I think your expectation of value is not too bad. If they offered you $5K, I'd jump on it. KBB is, as usual, wildly optimistic and based on asking prices. The insurance company is not going to give you that I don't think (hope they do, but...)
If they offer you $2500, which they might, given the high mileage and your hint of a less than pristine condition, you have the right to invoke the arbitration clause, which means you hire your own appraiser and the insurance company hires theirs-----your appraisal *may* encourage them to up their offer, but if not you go to arbitration with a neutral referee and this + the appraisal will cost you about another $500 or so. Chances are, in arbitration, you'd at least break even...so if you want your day in "court" this is the way to do it.
Since you were hit, the arbitration would not be binding, since this is a third party claim.
I haven't seen your truck up close so I can't say more about the value. If there are defects in paint and upholstery, you can be sure the insurance adjuster will hammer on those.
Be sure you get credit for the rack, and that the offer you get does NOT have tax and license blended in as one number---that's your entitlement, to tax and license fees, and should not be part of the settlement, unless that's specified as an add on. That'll give you an extra 10% or so on their offer.