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Infiniti G35 Care and Maintenance



  • cpranger22cpranger22 Posts: 21
    Just tried regular unleaded gas and experienced no performance degradation whatsoever.
  • dabush2dabush2 Posts: 9
    I am considering a G35 and was curious as to the maintenance schedule for this car-what is recommended, how often, how much, etc. Currently have a BMW which goes in about every 6 months (10-12K miles) based on my driving style (the computer tells you when it's time for service).

  • steve_g35steve_g35 Posts: 5
    Once you remove the plastic cover, you can't miss it. It's basically adjacent to the oil filter. In fact, there is a cut out in the plastic cover that allows you to drain your oil without removing the cover. Why someone would want to change the oil, but not the filter is a mystery to me.
  • stsurbrookstsurbrook Posts: 285
    Then you need a pump attachment to get the oil out, correct?

    I agree that changing the oil without changing the filter doesn't make much sense, especially with the price of good filters today.

    Is anyone using the 7500 mile schedule for their oil changes? I'm going to get an oil analysis on my next oil change to see how well the Schaefer oil I'm using is holding up and see how far I SHOULD let it go.

  • dabush2dabush2 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the printout, Randy. Looks pretty cut and dry to me. I suppose that I can extend the oil change intervals since I'll be using Mobil-1 synthetic. Does K&N make an air filter for the G yet? I use one in my 540i and I feel they are worth the money.
  • I've got just over 1200 miles on my G35. My earlier fill ups revealed that I was barely getting 19 mpg. This is with heavy AC use and mostly non-highway driving. So that is at the bottom of what they advertise (this was
    with premium fuel).

    I recently took a long trip and drove at excessive speeds with the AC in constant use and got 22 mpg (this was with regular unleaded 87).

    In reference to what octane should be used.....
    When in doubt, check the owner's manual:
    Page 208 -
    Unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of at least 91 AKI (RON 96)
    Page 208

    HOWEVER on Page 209 -
    Use unleaded regular gasoline with an octane rating of at lease 87 AKI (Anti-Knock Index) number (Research octane number 96).

    For improved vehicle performance, INFINITI recommends the use of unleaded premium gasoline with an octane rating of at least 91 AKI number (Research octane number 96).

    So it sounds to me that if you want all that the engine has to offer, go with 93. However, using 87 would be o/k (as long as you do not experience knocking, which I have not).
  • I fall into the group that likes to change my own oil. By the time you get to a dealership and have them do it, it is quicker to change it yourself.

    The G35 sits so low to the ground, I'm wondering how this group is able to change their own oil? Car jack / stands / ramps?

    Does anyone have any lessons learned from this do it yourself activity? Perhaps it is better to let the dealer do this maintenance with the G35..

    Thanks for any information.
  • 4grandpa4grandpa Posts: 7
    I use ramps. But, I also had to get ramp extenders because of the car being so low. This allows very good access to the panel that is over the oil drain plug and the filter. Remove the panel the rest should be a piece of cake. The fliter is the same as for the Maxima.
  • 4grandpa (or anyone else) -
    Per message #39 / 40.
    I took a look (online) at the ramps with the extentions. This fit seems very tight. What is company / model of what is successfully being used?

    Also, is there a problem with all the oil draining out, since the of the car is higher than the rear?

  • 4grandpa4grandpa Posts: 7
    Ultra ramps and extenions made by Tru-cut Automotive. Purchased mine at Ames about $50 for both. Just used them last night and they work fine. The 14 bolts on the shield are a pain but once the shield is removed plug and filter are easily reached. Yes the oil drains very well. For first time users have someone watch positioning and be sure not to run off the end of the ramps.
  • Brian,
    I got the opposite that you got. I started off by using Mid-octane gas and my milage was lower and my G35 had a short lag before kicking off (not much...but enough for me to tell the difference. my wife didn't notice a thing). However, I started using the Premium and my mpg went up and there was the absolute smooth take-off. This wasn't imagined since I was really looking for any reason to continue with the mid-level octane since it's better on my wallet.
  • hotwhackshotwhacks Posts: 1
    The grey plastic is painted and thus SHOULD be waxed. Your instincts were good but your concern only applies to unpainted rubber and vinyl. I used Klasse All-In-One on the trim and it looks great but any wax will do.
  • obladidaobladida Posts: 3
    Anyone know anything about the FuelMax products?

    It sounds questionable to me but I'm curious if anyone's heard of it (or better yet, tried it) and if it works.

    The G35 is my dream car. After I pay off my wife's Accord early next year I hope to get myself one. However, the whole 19MPG/Premium Fuel thing is a major thorn in my eco-conscious side.

    On a side note: Has anyone considered getting your engine computer/timing recalibrated to run on regular fuel? I know it's sounds moronic to cripple such a wonderful piece of engineering, but hey, $ is $.

    Any fuel saving info is appreciated. Thanks!
  • clothcloth Posts: 52
    The problem is not the car, its the owners. If I concentrate on miles per gallon, I get 25-27. If I concentrate on smiles per mile I get 16-18mpg.
  • I'm at 4000 miles now and have only run two tanks of premium and two tanks of mid grade through the engine. The rest has been 87 octane. The car still runs fine. However, I can agree with the above comment on slight performance degradation.

    The car still performs well on 87, but if you want all the engine has to offer, pay the extra cash for the good stuff.
  • I just got my first, small chip on the hood. Courtesy of an 18 wheeler and what looked like bark.

    Beyond the preventative measures, what is the process to fix / cover the chip and what has been learned? (i.e. types of paint, steps involved, blending, is it noticeable)

    Any information is appreciated, my other cars have been older and I never worried about chips and dings.
  • I also have a small chip (pinhead size) I need to repair. The dealer is sending me touch up paint in the Twilight Blue.

    What wax are people using? I want the best for this rocket, and it looks soooooooo good all clean and polished. So far the dealer has done it but I want to wax it a home.

  • willjamwilljam Posts: 22
    I using Mother's California Gold paste wax. It applies easily and buffs to a terrific shine. I use a polishing cloth to remove the wax and cheesecloth finish off the job. Both cloths are made by Turtle Wax.
  • ggbogoggbogo Posts: 9
    All the great info. about car detailing you can get at:

    (use to be - still can use this URL)

    This is everything you need to know about car detailing (waxing, washing, etc...)
  • mboxermboxer Posts: 13
    Well my G35 is at 3000 miles and the only pain in the butt is keeping the wheels clean from the braje dust on the front wheels. These are the stock ones which came with my G35. Any ideas?
  • I have 7000 miles and still have dust. This is the price we pay for having excellent brakes.
  • sanandtonsanandton Posts: 342
    I even had the Service Mgr at my dealer say "Infiniti should do something about that" in regards to the excessive break dust. Anyway, I had a Wheel/tire dealer tell me to replace the stock pads with Ceramic pads when the current pads wear out. Is there any truth to this?
  • blinkerblinker Posts: 38
    I had an equal amount of dust with my previous Audi and when the pads needed replacement, I used Mintex Red Box pads and they were great--excellent grip with hardly any dust. I don't know if they are available for the G35 yet but maybe by the time many of us are needing replacements they will be.
  • Just picked up my G35 last night. Does anyone have any info on recommended engine "break in " period? I know rule of thumb is first 1000 miles and you shouldn't exceed 55-60 and rev too hard. Does that hold true for this car? It's been very tough to do with this car. Any info would be appreciated.
  • techhawktechhawk Posts: 18
    It's in your owners manual. Avoid full throttle in any gear and vary your speed for the first 1000mi. You're right; it IS hard! I'm at 833mi and counting. Congrats on your new car, its an awesome ride.
  • There is nothing that I have ever heard of that says you shouldn't run your vehicle over 55-60 during the break-in period. You can run it at 70 (or 90), if you want, but just don't do it with the cruise control. As you noted, you do need to vary the engine speed.

    The majority of break-in happens during the first 1,000 miles. However, the engine will be breaking in for upwards of 15,000 miles. So baby it during the first 1000, try to avoid extended periods of hard driving for the 1st 5000, and enjoy from then on. Also, use a good quality oil (synthetics, but I would avoid the major brands and go with specialties like Schaeffer's, Amsoil, etc. that specialize in quality oils and are often as cheap or cheaper) and oil filter (OE oil filter should be very good).

    Change before 3750 miles and again about 3750 miles later. Then get an oil test to see how the engine and oil are doing and adjust the interval based on that.

  • I have always used gearing to slow my cars. I put 249,000 on my 91 Honda and never had a moments problem with the tranny. I use the manumatic in the G35 (it's so easy) to slow and then lightly touch the brakes. I get a lot less brake dust.
  • Does anyone know for sure if the G35 has a clear coat finish? It seems most modern cars do, but I just wanted to be sure by asking the folks here before taking the dealer route.
    Whether it does of not, what are some opinions about the best waxes and polishes for use on this finish?

    I used to use a high grade carnuba wax on my old MGB and that worked great but it was hell of a lot of work.

  • Any one have any theory about using mineral oils for the first 5000-10,000 miles, prior to switching to synthetic, to allow the rings to seal better? Just a rumor I heard?
This discussion has been closed.