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Comments
I'm seriously think of the 3M clearbra, I think invincashield (or something like that) has a kit that looks fairly easy to self-install. Dealer wants $695... I won't give in to their greed.
Only had my G 3 weeks now, so chipping isn't yet evident. You know what? I'm gonna order it right now, at least the hood kit. Let you know how it goes.
Berman, the only way to get rid of chips is to hide them, either touch up paint, or repaint. However, if you repaint, your trade-in value takes a huge hit! If trading-in is in your future, either leave the chips alone, or use touch up paint.
Has anyone else had this issue come up. It is fairly minor, but it does kind of bug me.
Thanks
I had the Xpel kit put on my G35s in Houston a couple of months ago. One installer quoted $700 and the other quoted $395. Guess which one I went with. The install was not an easy one and the installer had to do the hood twice to get it to fit correctly.
My G was two months old at time of the install and was already starting to accumulate quite a few chips in the bumper cover. If I had it to do over I would have had the kit installed during my first week of ownership.
Does anyone know if I could have possibly done some sort of damage to the engine by hitting 6000 rpms while still in the break in period?
I would hope that an engine could withstand being tested like this at least once without having any long term consequences but am not sure.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Don
Don
http://homepage.mac.com/dkowasic/PhotoAlbum2.html
By the way does anyone know of a Clear Bra dealer in South Florida? Thanks for the help.
i have have been round and round with infiniti and they have basiclly told "to bad, it's in the manual".
in the last 8 yrs i have owned 2 Q45's and a QX4, this will be the last infiniti i own because of their lack of concern for the problem and their failure to address it.
if i sound pissed it's because of the way the regional manager addressed the problem (did nothing) and after countless telephone calls and 3 registered letters the home office in CA has not responded.
Have any other people reported this problem?
The service rep said he has seen the problem before and the owners had admitted to driving their cars with the emergency brake indicator light "on". THIS IS VERY HARD FO ME TO BELIEVE!
I live in central New Jersey. I just had the car for a week and put 250 miles on it. 120 of them was on NJ Turnpike
Thanks again, guys.
Can anyone recommand good auto detailing place in DC metro area? May be near Alexandria, VA side. Oh, hopely places good at repairing scratches and paint chips. Winter is coming. People can use this feedback. Thanks and bye~
There's lots of debate about whether there's any significant effect on the engine performance between 89 and 91. But my owner's manual specifies 91 octane or better, and I don't want to take the chance.
IIRC, the sedans are recommended to run 89 octane.
For anyone that thinks that I am giving up the difference in mileage, my message is think again. The two tanks of 93 octane did not make any measurable difference.
Basically, in old non-computerized engines without variable timing, incorrect octane would lead to engine ping and decreased performance. Octane refers to the refinement of the gasoline in regards to the hydrocarbon chains. Lower octane fuel has a wider range of chain lengths allowing for a wider range of combustion timing. Higher octane has a narrower range of chain lengths - ideal for high performance vehicles with tighter controlled combustion timing. Now, however, if you put 87 in an engine requiring/recommending 91 or higher, the engine will adjust to the octane by widening the combustion timing range to prevent engine ping/run-on, but by retarding performance and fuel efficiency slightly. If you pay the premium for the recommended 91 (or higher) octane you should optimize fuel efficiency and engine timing. If you put lower octane in the same engine, the timing will adjust appropriately but likely burn slightly more fuel - lowering fuel economy for similar or slightly reduced performance (probably not noticeable on the street).
The low octane costs more but your engine might adjust to use more fuel. In the long run - calculate your mileage on each fuel, calculate in the appropriate fuel costs - it's probably a wash. If you feel more comfortable or feel the performance difference, stick with the recommended fuel.
I'm not a chemist, just read a bunch on this in the past - my 2 cents!
What do you think of this idea?
As far as a decrease in mileage, you can't notice that either. I ran the car on a 520 mile trip last weekend and got almost 25 mpg with an 80+ mph cruise. That's pretty good for an automatic.
I've run a couple tanks of 87 through, and I haven't noticed a butt-dyno difference. I have, however, noticed a slight drop in MPG. Too early to tell if it's just a coincidence, it'll take a few more tanks to establish a trend.
Let's assume 1.60/gal for 87 and 1.80/gal for 91. If you get mileage like me, it sucks.. I'm thinking about 15mpg on 91 and 13mpg on 87. 18 gallons gives you 270 or 234 miles, and costs 32.40 or 28.80 respectively. In miles per dollar, that's 8.3 for 91 and 8.1 for 87. Now, if I only lose 1 and get 14mpg, that's 252 miles, or 8.8 mi/$, actually cheaper than premium. Now if we take someone who's driving habits get them 19mpg on 91 and 17mpg on 87, we come up with 342mi and 306mi, or 10.5 mi/$ on 91 and 10.6mi/$ on 87, here a tiny savings even though there's a 2mpg penalty. With lots of highway driving an mid-20 mpg numbers, I imagine 87 would start to show a better savings.
So, it depends. On your driving style, the mileage you get, and how much gas costs in your area. It's probably not going to be a big difference in your monthly budget, either way.
Unless you tell me you have tested your car and substantiated 2 mpg difference over the roads and highways, I will be skeptical that 2 mpg can be realized with only a change from 87 to 91 octane.
Remember, the engine control system only needs the peak octane when full power is required, which is pretty rarely, even for spirited drivers.
For those of you that think that running 87 octane automatically means poor fuel economy, consider the following quotation from the Infiniti Owners Manual, page 10-4. "now and then you may notice light spark knock for a short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is no cause for concern, because you get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light knock for a short time under heavy engine load."
Besides, if you look at the overview of those numbers, it appears that 87 is cheaper than 91, even with a small hit to mpg.
I'm going to continue to run 87 for awhile, just to see how it goes. That will probably include a few autocross sessions, as well.
I think the engine really broke in at about 10000 miles.
More important than the detergent is to frequently rinse out your wash mitt/rag, so that you're not dragging the dirt across your paint.
Thanks!
I now have a black mark where the rims rubbed the curb. Has anyone else experienced this? How can I get rid of this black mark?
The material is pretty resilient and will not show marks from flying rocks the way exposed paint would. You may see some marks, but they'll be minor, and it's comforting to know it's doing its job and protecting the car.