Infiniti G35 Maintenance and Repair

wbr99

Ok, this might be a "feature" with this car, but I wish it wasn't. I always have the habit on having the air recirculation button ON when I use the AC, so that dust and CO2 etc dont come into the cabin.

When i use the system for Heating and follow the instruction in the manual (page 4-12), all is well the A/C is turned off and the Fresh Air button is turned on. The second i press the "air recirculation button" to ON the A/C turns on automatically and this defeats the purpose.

My question is, Is there no way to have the A/C off and the "air recirculation" ON at the same time?

Thanks,
Wally

wbr99

I dont think I was ever able to do this.

smokey75

Yeah, you have to watch for that carbon dioxide coming into the cabin. It probably does this because if you recycle the air in the winter it will quickly become humidified & fog your windows. The AC turns on to dry the air, same reason it comes on when you use defrost.

wbr99

Thanks Smokey

limeguy

Is it just me, or does anyone else out there have a 'squeaky' driver's side window? This annoying problem started about 6 months after I purchased my 2004 6MT. It happens when hitting bumps, making a sharp turn to the left, or from heavy bass notes from the radio. The dealer has tried a couple fixes that didn't work. This detracts from what would be an otherwise enjoyable driving experience! I have driven several G35s and not a one exhibited this problem. After my G comes out of winter storage, I am going to insist that the dealer resolve this once and for all.

chemike56

Hi! NO man, you are not alone in this world...
I have an 05 G35 sedan that started same "squeaky" noises around door frames . It turned me crazy and took about 4-5 visits to the dealer with no success. I finally myself remove the door panels and apply sticky felt cloth tape (which I buy from Home Depot for about $3)to upper door frame where the door panel edge rests in the door. Happilly for me,this resulted in much much less squeaky noise and absolutelly no vibration from the bass. Later on, Infiniti came with few service bulletins that addressed this problem. You can find them in : www.infinitihelp.com/Infiniti/Bulletins/G35
Hope this could be of some help!!!

loylee

Well, I was able to shift into gears without pressing the clutch when the car is shut off. Does that mean I got a transmission problem or clutch problem? Or we can do so because it is a short throw transmission?

mkrzyzek

I made the mistake of submitting my complaint via their online form TWICE because of a rattling I could hear in the dash, as well as the side door panels whenever I had my XM radio on. Do you think I ever received a reply? NO, aside from the automated message, they never got back to me. For a luxury brand, they have horrendous customer service and for my next car I will not hesitate to look elsewhere.

On a positive note, I told Inskip Infiniti in Warwick, RI about the problems and they pretty much fixed it. They added tape to the doors which 90% solved the rattling in the doors, and they found a technical bulletin that the rearview mirror can cause the dash to vibrate, and they fixed it as well.

mkrzyzek

My G35x has 9000 miles and the brakes are always squeaking. I asked my dealer about it and they said that due to the type of brake pads used, these cars are prone to squeaking. He said that most Infinitis have this problem. They checked the brake pad wear during my oil change and said everything looked fine.

So what can I do about this, if anything? I love my car but it's annoying to hear squeaks every time I put the brakes on. Makes me think I'm driving my parents former Saturn that would do that all the time.

alarict6mt

I own a 06 MT G35 Coupe. Shortly after driving my new G35 I noticed clutch \ transmission judder most noticeably in first and reverse gears when pulling away on hills. The car has been back to the dealer 3 times and on the third occasion I took them to a hill and reproduced the issue. After a day with the car they said this is as designed, I then drove a 6MT from their inventory with 12 miles on the clock and sure enough it did the same thing but to a lesser extend. This spoils what is otherwise an excellent driving experience.

Has anyone on this forum noticed this issue?

sezra76

I have had my clutch stick several times when shifting from 1st to 2nd. I actually have to put my foot under the clutch to bring it back up. This has only happened when I let the clutch out at higher RPM's. I will be taking it in in a couple of days to have it checked out. I have an 05 and the clutch is really soft compared to the 04 coupe and the o4 350 Z i used ti have. I am hoping for a new clutch. I have a question. My rear wheels creak after having new tires replaced on the rear. My 04 350Z had the same noise. How about you?

mgmoreau

I am considering buying an 03 G35 sedan with an automatic and the Aero package. I read in the 05 brochure that the Aero pkg requires the sport suspension pkg with limited slip differential. Does this mean the 03 model will have a limited slip differential and would that feature help the car in the snow?

Hope to get replies because I love this care but am concerned about driving it in snow in New England. I not sure if snow tires will make that much difference.

Thanks to any and all replies

me_and_g35

Don't buy an used 2003 G35 seden, specially over 36k miles. You will be hit with extra high maintenance costs. I hear that 2003 G35 are going for lower that it was expected two years ago due to the new competitors (new IS and New BMW 3-series). Infiniti was crazy to set 60% residual for my 2004 G35 sedan for 39 month term. In less than 2 years, my G35 should only worth $17K according to ALG.

toneroc

Hey i got the same problem with my 05 6mt coupe. I just bought new in sep 2005 with 90 miles on it. 2 Months later I took it back to the dealer because of some rattling noise when i shut off the car and when I leave in running. They said nothing was wrong. Now a month later my clutch started slipping. I took it back again and they said my clutch was worn out. So they took it apart and said the clutch was worn out on both sides, the flywheel needs to be replace and some kind of bearing. I had the car for a few months and I dont race it or anything so they should replace it under the warranty. But they said they cant because its a worn part like brakes so they wont cover it. Thats not right. Is it?

vinviper

Hi guys,

sucks [non-permissible content removed] but I got some minor but decent deep scratches on the brand new car. Its bottom of back bumper which is good. What is best way to fix? Dealer does good job with this? Perhaps ill wait till my first oil change. But that wont be till a while since I dont drive it much. Anyone have experience with touch up paint? This is my first new car so I want to give it the top notch treatment.

toann

I have an 05 6mt. There is one line on my rear defroster that is not working. I know its a small issue but people say I should just get it fixed while its still under warranty. So I went to the dealer and they said they would fix it and are ordering a repair kit. After weeks I called them and they said the repair kit came and i scheduled an appointment. I called again today to switch the appointment and the guy said that the repair kits are on back order and that they have to replace my whole windshield (they just want to make more money from the factory). Now the question:

Do I replace the whole windshield or just leave the line no working....

I don't want it to mess up something else getting this repaired, IE. my navigation or anything else. I hear about people having other problems after the dealer fixes their car... like squeaks/noises and stuff...

Do you know how major it is to replace the rear windshield. Because if its not major, then its less likely they can screw something else up....I'm worried about my nav. because some say that theirs are off a little. Mine seems accurate right now.

Thanks for your suggestions.

alarict6mt

This is my opinion and could be wrong: the dealer won't cover consumables like a clutch or brakes, typically fair enough. I would ask the dealer if Infiniti designed the clutch to last only 3 months, if not, why did yours fail in 3 months (assuming you did not drive 90k miles in that time)?

I would expect the bearing is a standard replacement with a clutch plate, the modern equivalent of a clutch release bearing probably. The worn clutch probably damaged the flywheel; if they had recognized the problem when you first took the car in, maybe it wouldn't have worn out.

My G35 is going back to a different dealer - if they don't fix the already acknowledged knocking and jolting, I may return the car sighting California’s lemon law...

Good luck!

dem739

The problem is that Infiniti's have a luxury price tag but Infiniti Corp. treats them like they are Nissan's.
I wish I leased rather than bought my G35X. Brake pads changed at 8801 miles on my 2005 with 60% wear from the service visit 2400 miles before where brake pads were noted at 100%.
I'll be looking elsewhere for my next car, too.
I spoke with a Service Manager at my dealership and she said these brake pads are made to last 12,000 miles because they are high performance. She says Infiniti didn't know that when they started using them. I said it's funny how the sales people don't mention that when you are looking at the cars. "This car comes with high performance brake pads that will need to be changed at least every 12,000 miles.

maddiesmom

I have a 2003 g35 and I was wondering if anyone has heard of the ac/radio not lighting up and the panel lights staying bright. Also all the rear lights don't come on when I turn my headlights on. They still work, but only if I push the brake or turn on the blinker. I was installing a spoiler and stupid me, I connected the wrong wires. That's when it happened. I have fixed the wires now and the spoiler light does work but still having the same problem. I have looked for blown fuses etc. and even called the dealership to see if they could help. Nobody has ever heard of this happening. I live 2 hours away from the closest infiniti dealer so any help would be great!

larj

I have a 2003 g35 coupe and the paint is chipped excessively.
We have owned three other Infiniti models and had no problem. When I discussed the problem with three Infiniti dealerships, I was treated like a "Geo Prism" driver. This car is a premium automobile, and should not have this problem. I've made myself clear to Infiniti. This is my
fourth Infiniti, there will NOT be a fifth ! BMW or Mercedes is where my money is going in May 2007. Infiniti chooses to loose a life-long customer for a simple paint fix.

salraf

I went for a test drive this weekend..
I was actually interested in the M35/45 but thought that it may be a bit big for me...

Afterwards I test drove a standard g35 sedan...It seemed considerably noisier vs the m45 and alot noisier than my current 330...

Do others agree? :confuse:

theflyiswhy

Please help guys and gals. I have a 2004 6MT with the 18 inch wheels wurbly exhaust(factory)and brembos. I love driving the car but....

My clutch went after 17,000 miles. Brakes around the same. The dealer said a broken spring caused the clutch to fail. I drive very good with the clutch although I do commute into NYC everyday for the past 6 mos. Meanwhile I think we have a lemon law issue with the 6mts and we should all complain to audi. please write me if your car had the same clutch problem.

I am tired of being accused of being a bad stick driver and that I should just deal with a new clutch once or twice a year since its a maintenance item.

Ive had 1984 Nissan 300ZX 1981 280 ZX 1988 Supra turbo that all had clutches last for around 75,000 miles.

PLEASE HELP!!!

tprice

I've had G35 for three weeks and have a noticeable squeak coming from the access panel above the clock - really picks up when going over bumps. If I put pressure on it, it stops. Seems like a design issue as result of panel rubbing against dashboard. Just curious if anyone else has had same problem and what the solution was - beyond turning up the volume on the radio?! Just came out of a 3 year old Accord that was rattle free after 45K miles so a little frustrated by this - otherwise, I'm enjoying the G!

mkrzyzek

I have a 2005 G35x that had the same problem for months. I took it to the dealership and a technician took it on the highway with me. Same thing - when he put pressure on the panel the noise stopped. There is actually a service bulletin on it, believe it or not it's the rearview mirror and it reverberating down the windshield and causing the rattle. They ended up adding some tape in the mirror and whatever else they did, and the car is squeakfree.

I was upset when that happened because the car only had 5,000 miles on it and I was turning the radio up to avoid the noise. Go to the dealership and get it fixed! I had the car serviced at Inskip Infiniti in Warwick, RI.

Mitch

mkrzyzek

My G35x has 8000 miles and the brakes won't stop squeaking when I apply pressure. How can I fix this?

mkrzyzek

This bulletin board stinks, no one replies to messages and it seems like everyone just has questions. Where else can I go to have an active discussion with G35 owners?

Nothing against the posters here, just that there are too few of us to have meaningful conversation.

g35ing

I had the same problem with my 2005 G35 sedan (which I bought in April 2005). I took it back to the dealership 7 times before they completely fixed the problem in September. This is the link to the TSB you need:

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownership/Bulletins/Infiniti/2005/ITB05-053.htm

Bring it to the dealership and hopefully it won't take 5 months for your dealership to fix the problem. Good luck!

gtw

hat link says nothing about the brakes. My wifes maxima had this problem and they applied a special grease that stopped it completely. Took 2 visits to get it fixed. The grease was applied second visit.

gtw

http://www.g35driver.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=15

ssmith212

well my brakes squeaked for the first 12,000 miles until they replaced them. I know how you feel, they sound horrible. Anyhow, the new dealership I went to replaced them and the noise is gone!!! I have a 2004 so the brakes are under warranty until 36,000 miles. Hope this helps.

snowdog2112

Andy,

Most dealers dont really care what happens with your car after you buy it becuase the if they have to service your car under the warranty they get paid in full by the manufacturer. So obviously they want to be able to service is as much as possible.

I hope you are having better luck with your brakes by now. However if you are still having problems I can suggest some tips that might help you solve your brake problem. An important thing to remember about disc brakess in any car is that the enviornment that they function in is dynamic. In the winter time the metal rotors get cold and become more brittle. The brake pads can become brittle as well. So when you start the car and drive around not using the brakes too much which is not uncommon if you live next to an expressway the car can get up to great speeds before the driver might need to use them. For instance, while driving the car on the expressway and someone cuts you off you all of a sudden slam on your brakes, or worse your driving fast on a road and at the last minute the light turns red so the car needs to be stopped abruptly then you slam on your brakes and take advantage of the ABS. If the brakes and rotors in your car are not poperly prepared for these situations then you will have to change your brakes and rotors much more frequently than normal. Here is how you save yourself a lot of headaches and a whole lot of money!

Everyone who buys a new car or gets new brakes and rotors installed (no matter how old the car is) should go through the process of "bedding in" the brakes.

When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! I do not endorse speeding on public roads and take no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while
following these instructions.

1.From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then
accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this couple of times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2.Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. (Note: With some less aggressive street pads, you may need to do fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
3.The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
4.After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
5.If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT
14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.
6.After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
7.After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle,
AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes
really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

I hope this was helpful

vinviper

Hi guys,

Tried it the other day with no luck. Said not playable. what brand of CD RW do you use for the MP3 playback. I want to buy one brand that will def work. Thanks.

tprice

I'm at 7 weeks and 3000 miles in my G35 6M Sedan. I love the look of the car and it is a blast to drive. I'm growing a little frustrated with the number of rattles that have developed (i.e., in addition to dash rattle reported in post 2018) in such a short time. Thanks g35ing for the link to the Bulletins!

My only other "complaint" or observation is that I wish that XM came standard (vs. being a $600+ add on). I'm sure it could have built-in for fraction of the cost to add on through the dealer + would have allowed for a more integrated antenna. I have a XM SkyFi receiver that I used in my Honda that doesn't fit anywhere in the G - in the Accord it fit nicely into the center console bin. I don't want to have a receiver attached to the dash, vents, etc. but am missing the XM. Will likely end up going the OEM route so it will be incorporated in the head unit.

Perhaps I'm being too picky about the rattles but (again) my 2003 Accord had 45,000 miles with no rattles. Our Acura MDX is at 35,000 miles and no rattles or squeaks so seems like it's been proven that it can be done. We've had a lot of Honda's/Acura's over the years and wanted to try something different this time - almost felt like cheating to not get a TL! Will soon be due for the 3750 mile service and will plan/hope to have the ratttles fixed then. If we can get past the rattles - without using the radio volume solution - I will be happy! Again, it's a blast to drive!

jaguila

So, do you need to bed the brakes everytime you replace the pads since you may also have to turn the rotors?

If I have to bed the brakes, how much more often do the pads have to be replaced, since several people here said the pads won't last longer than 12000 miles.

Appreciate the info.

aarbiter

Hi:
Please let me know what happend with your car. I am having the same problem at 25k miles. I am guessing that the dealer will give me the shaft too.

pdouble

Hi,

I just noticed a couple of days ago that it seems the tread on my brand new 06' G35 coupe which has those (stinky) Bridgestone Potenza 19in tires and rims have barely any tread... If I put a dime on the tread, I could see more that 50% of the dime !!!!!

How deep is the tread on these tires..? I have less than 300 miles on the car and the car had 6 miles when I got it and I haven't had the car for a whole week yet !!!!

Has anyone else noticed this ? Is it possible the dealer did the ol switch a'roo on me ???

It doesnt look like I'll get another 10,000 miles outta these tires..

I may have to sneak around to other dealers and look at some other g35's on there lots to see if there is a difference...

Could someone tell me if that is right ???

Thanks.

jdsully

I have an early 2003 sedan. A couple of months ago I had to replace the battery when the car wouldn't start. I thought it was a little too soon to replace the battery but figured it could happen. Then this morning it wouldn't start again. The battery was at about 10.5 volts. I jumped it and it was charging at about 14.5 volts. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing the drain?

me_and_g35

you probably want to take in your g35 to a dealer and have some tests run on the circuitry of the car.

muchluck

And I thought it was just my car. I too have an an early version of the 2003 G35. One morning it wouldn't start. Had to have it boosted and then took it to the dealership. They couldn't find anything. It happened again two weeks later and they told me my battery was kaput. Had to pay the whole shot. Two months later the same thing happened again-this time the lights wouldn't turn off and then went bright and then dark. Had it towed in again. This time it was explained as a defective battery that they had put in. Three times it left me stranded. I told the dealership that I felt it was far too much a coincidence for the batteries to keep dying but they told me that that was just the way it was - they had checked the electrical system. this is just the latest in a long line of problems stereo, brakes, molding coming off, grill replaced twice, etc.
Has anyone else had a similar electrical problem?

raizelgs

I'm not sure about the tread depth, but several posters on one of the other G35 forums complained about tread life with the Potenzas (17000 miles). I have the same tires and I'm afraid I will have to replace them sooner than expected.

whistle15

I just recently purchased a 2004 G35 (25,000 miles). I heard no noises at all when I test drove the vehicle. In the past two weeks, I have noticed that when going over bumps, even small ones, I hear a rumble noise coming from the rear of the car. I am not certain but it even sounds like it might be the left side more than the right. I have noticed no performance issues at all and the car feels great. It is a bit concerning though. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

dog35

I have a battery drain problem. Two years ago I purchased a G35 made in mid-2003. The first year we had the car all was well. Starting mid-2005 the factory battery died several times so I replaced it. The new battery died several more times. Dealer checked the car on warranty and noted a draw on the battery of 120 mA. They said this was similar to new G35's on the new car lot. A car column in our newspaper noted that Ford designates a max. draw of 60 mA on their cars and GM's upper acceptable limit is about 90 mA. The author of the column said that at a draw of about 150 mA the battery would go dead in about 7-8 days if not driven.

The dealer refused to have anything further to do with the car even though the new battery continues to become discharged. The dealer suggested that I put an RV battery in the car or start and idle the car for 30 min. every day it is not driven. Practical advice, eh?

The most recent incident: battery dead mid Feb. and recharged with a trickle charger over about 36 hours. Car then driven almost every day for the next month with several trips of 500 miles and a total of 1500 miles from mid Feb. to mid March when the car was driven to the airport and parked for 3 days. The battery had no where near enough reserve to start the car. After only 3 idle days! It required a jump.

My mistake? Not hiring someone to go to the airport and start and idle the car for 30 minutes daily! Or--my mistake?
Getting a G35 in the first place.

phenomenhan

You're not alone in this. I too am confused. I have the 5AT version with the Premium/Intellikey package, and I can't get mine to work. I'm still searching for answers. I've posted the following on another forum:

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB25&Number=680- 81956&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

I wonder if I can sue infiniti for false advertisement?

kjj

Hi, I need your help. I have '03 G35 4D and finally drove more than 36,000miles-no more free brakes. I want to try some aftermarket brakes (pads and rotors) which would make less dust and last LONGER but hopefully wouldn't compromise the braking performance. I welcome all suggestions and especially past experience. Thanks in advance. :confuse:

toca

Open the door and the drivers seat slides back and the steering wheel goes up. Comes with premium package.

njmundyesq

I know it sounds stupid and too simple, but it could be that the nut that holds the spare tire in the trunk is not tightened all the way. That solved the problem for me when I experienced something similar about a year ago. Good luck.

timesurfer

I bought a new G35x sedan in September 2005. Just recently, I noticed rust on the top of the chrome tailpipe. I have taken the car to the dealer. They took pictures and will be sending then to Nissan for evaluation. The service rep told me that in the last few days, another person had come in with the same problem.

Has anyone else experienced any similar problems like this?
Overall, the winter in Toronto has been pretty good this year.

neptungrll

HI all. I just got a call from my Infiniti dealer about a recall on the fuel hose. I have a G35 2003 Sedan. I have to take it in Friday and it is an all day affair as they have to remove the gas tank to replace. Anyone else hear about this? This was news to me. I never got anything in the mail.

cheerioboy26

I hadn't heard about it, but it looks like about 138,000 vehicles are recalled (including mine).

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownership/Bulletins/Infiniti/2006/ITB06-006.htm

drewgk

Can any one recommend a different tire for a 05 with sports tuned suspension. Bridgestone are rubbish.

Thanks