The TSB just came out and you may not be able to find it on other websites. The technician showed me two page instructions on the TSB but I don't remember the exact number of the TSB. If you let the morons (aka "service Advisors" at the dealer to have a technician look up the Acura TSB (I suppose they have their own website exclusively for the dealer), it should pop right up. It only took 5 minutes or less before my technician showed me the print out. Good Luck!!
I called my dealer yesterday about the issue, he said he would look into it and call me back. Suprisingly he did but said "Acura is aware of the noises and is working on it, there is no official TSB yet" I also would like to get a copy of that memo to bring in.
I also have the popping sound recently when started in the morning, may be due to cold weather? No popping after warm up. Just don't bother now but will tell the technician next service. 14K km now and very happy with it.
I am currently away from home, but I will let you start without waiting for my return home. I bet the service advisor never looked it up himself. Ask for a technician to look it up for the TSB and tell him that it requires a software update. My service memo states "operational error" with some numbers written next to it but it doesn't mention that it was a faulty software glitch. I wonder if it has to do with the initial quality measurement. If your dealer still can't find it, then Call Pohanka Acura Dealer in Chantilly VA and ask for the service department. Ask for a technician named Russel and ask him where he found the TSB and find out what the TSB # is. Then if you could share it with others on this website, it would reduce the number of calls to the dealer/technician.
Although my dealership was unable to recreate the issue. They went the extra mile and called Acura who satted there is a SB that will be released shortly. They sent a pre-release copy to the dealership. It involves both a software change and replacement of an amplifier. My MDX is still in the shop waiting for parts to arrive next week. Hopefully that will fix the popping at startup.
Remember that you are reading a Repair discussion. Owners wouldn't be posting here if their MDX was running great since that wouldn't be on topic (but you know most of them are doing just fine - you really don't see many cars broken down on the side of the road these days).
Just about every make/model has a similar discussion here.
Fair point. But the discussions of the clunk in the rear and the vibrating hood seem more acute than discussions I've seen in some of the other forums (Jeep Commander excepted!)
I just don't want to spend a lot of dough on a problem.
Hey Lost!! my wife got her MDX 07 Tech last year around November she has 18,000 miles on it we never had any problem with the Suv I like it some much I'm getting a 08 with the sport and ent pack!! :shades:
We are also considering (probably will buy tomorrow) the '08 MDX (with Nav and Ent). This will replace our '04 that was sadly totaled last week. The '04 had reasonable value ($27,100 + tax with 53K miles) so our net exchange will be $18K or so. I preferred a cheaper car, but my wife insists on the MDX.
We are sad that the '04 is gone (we actually like the styling better of the old model and I do not like paying the $18K), but we are glad that we were not in my Jeep since the outcome of the accident would likely have been worse. Nobody was seriously hurt (chest hurts but that is due to the seat belt and airbag).
We looked around and decided the MDX is still the best option. When we purchased the '04 we had several criteria - reliable, safe, three rows, not a minivan, and heated front seats - and the MDX was the only option. Now there are others but the MDX is still best.
We did not have a single problem on the '04 that had 53,000 miles. We considered the new Buick Enclave and other comparable SUV's and nothing makes my wife as happy as her old MDX.
Truly, the only two problems with the car is that it is a magnet for dings (no side guards) and it is nearly impossible to vacuum between the center front column and the seats. I just came up with the idea of blowing the dirt out of that crevice.
Please note, we would probably buy the Enclave if the name of the manufacturer was Acura instead of Buick. Buick is the best GM maker of cars and it gets good reliability ratings, but we were just not quite sure if buying the Enclave (at $40K+) would be the right choice even though we think it is the better SUV. If we had more money and thought we would not own the auto for 150,000 miles, we would have taken the chance on the Buick.
I do not think you meant this posting to be funny, but my wife and I laughed ourselves hysterically. Why? We also have a Jeep GC and we have all of the exact same problems and we also had an MDX (until 2 weeks ago - '04). The '04 did not have any issues, but I fix the Jeep all of the time. It is nice when we have a few months of no repairs and I have given up on repairing the AC. We will by an '08 MDX tomorrow, but I will say that we will have more questions because of these postings.
Oh - if you want to hear the sound of a jet every time you step on the gas, buy an V8 Jeep GC. It really is kind of loud and the Acura is so quiet. I actually thought the car was not shifting right after not driving the Jeep for a month one time because it was so loud. Just normal operations.
I had the dings repaired twice on the '04 (front passenger door) before I broke down and had the body side molding installed. They finally got it right on the third try. Well worth it though. I'll have to try reversing the air flow on the shop-vac to get between the center column and the front seats, I think there's a few french fries hiding there. Also went w/ an '07 MDX because of the good luck we've had w/ the '04. Seems to be some "clunking issues" w/ the rear suspension on the non-sport models, you may want to investigate before you sign.
I have an 07 MDX - pulled to the right since I picked it up in February. I took it into the shop and they replaced the sensor that showed if the tires were inflated properly. Apparently, the right tire was overinflated and caused a pull. However, the display showed the tire was the correct psi. Seems to have corrected the problem. Check the psi on your tires manually, don't rely on the computer display.
Has anyone else noticed that the windshield on the 07 MDX scratches very easily? Just running the wipers even when the glass is pretty clean (no dirt or sand) is causing all kinds of very visible scratches. Be extra careful when cleaning the glass as anything, even bug guts, will scratch the glass. Especially noticeable when driving into sunlight. Again, the materials being used on this vehicle seem to be second rate at best.
Is there anything on the market that can help mask these scratches w/out adversely affecting the glass or visibility?
I have a 2007 MDX and had the dealer install a front nose mask or "bra" as they are frequently referred to. It seems rather loose and the hood portion will flap at higher speeds or under certain wind conditions. I've had these on other cars and not had any problems. Has anyone else experienced this? The dealer claims to have never had any complaints and claims there are adjustments on the straps but I cannot see any. I also noticed another vehicle like mine and they had removed the hood portion of the mask - hmmmmm.
This may or may not answer your question, but I thought I would share an experience I had on a 2005 Accord and a nose mask.
I bought it from the Honda dealer parts department and took it home to install it. It did not appear to fit properly and I tried leaving it out in the sun to stretch and working it from every angle. Finally I took it in to the dealer and sheepishly admitted to them that I could not install a simple nose mask. They tried it also and found it to be incorrectly manufactured. They brought another one out and it fit like a glove. Moral of the story is that you should keep on them about an OEM fit, or have them take it back.
Noticed something very odd the other day. I purchased my MDX-Sport/Ent/Tech in april 2007. I set my preferences for the day and night time screen colors. Up until about a month ago the color on the screen would automaticlly change from the night time color I had chosen to the day time color when I would back out of my garage or when driving thourgh a tunnel. It doesn't do that anymore. It just stays on the daytime color preference only, even when driving at night, unless I maunally change it. Any ideas anyone??
Have had our '07 MDX sport/ent for just over a year now. I was driving it for the majority of that time but my wife has recently commandeered it (I'm back to driving the '04 ). She immediately noticed "wind noise" coming from the driver side window at speeds above 30 mph. I guess I had the radio up too loud. Have taken some extended trips lately and with the volume down, you can definitely hear it. It sounds like the window is cracked open but it is all the way up. I think I remember some else posting this problem earlier, has anyone had it addressed? I'm taking 'er in later this week to see what they have to say.
Hello, We just bought an '08 MDX last night and the finance guy offered us the option of buying a prepaid maintenance agreement (to be performed at that particular dealer). Options available are: all service up to 55k miles : $1,312 all service up to 75k miles: $1,852 all service up to 90k miles: $2,264 I am curious if folks here have bought these and whether they think it's a good deal. Thanks, Greg
MY wife has an 04 MDX. Maintenance has not been an issue until 55k when we experienced a howl in the tranny. When new I had purchased an extended warranty and was very happy not to get a bill for a new transmission which they agreed to install. The dealer in the "major" maintenance interval ripped us off big time however. The 30 k they nailed us for about $600. I have since taken it to the local Honda dealer and much more reasonable inc a "major" 45 k,. $50 So if you can get routine maintenance etc they are worth it in my view. We love the car otherwise.
Seaclusion, Now you have me worried, I thought acura had ironed out the tranny problems by '04 model year. Also have an '04 w/ 52k and no tranny problems yet. How much would that have run you if you hadn't had the extended warranty? We don't have one. Do you know if it is too late to get one now?
Took the '07 in to have the wind noise investigated. Tech noticed it immediately. They ordered all 3 seals (window, door and mirror). We'll see if that does the trick.
The new 2007 MDX (if produced after April of that year) passes all the IIHS tests --- not just rear-end, but front and sideways --- with flying colors. Hence my concern to deal with the big safety deficiency in the pre-2007 model.
I recently was contacted by a warranty company to extend it. I passed because I did it when I purchased the MDX. I'm not sure but there may be a 100,000 warranty on this issue. Im not sure. The cost for a reman transmission and labor probably $2500- 3000 im guessing. The service dept cautioned that I might get a worse condition than what I was experiencing because it is a remanufactured unit. It is working fine however
I am planning to purchase a MDX, but the closest dealership is 1 hour away. I was wondering, if I change the oil by myself or at other local shops, am I able to reset the service reminder? How does the oil life indicator work? Based on milage, time or what? If I don't get service at the dealership will that void the warrantee?
Just discussed this very same issue with the service manager the other day. I too live 1 hour from dealer and get my oil changed locally. I always reset the service minder myself. The manager cautioned me about doing this as it also resets other service minders. I asked him why I hadn't gotten any minders about anything w/ over 12k miles on the vehicle and he stated this was why. He also said that I was changing my oil too soon, they are seeing new MDX's going 7500 miles before needing the oil changed.
For any do-it-yourselfer questioning whether to pay for a service plan, the answer is a resounding “no.” For 90K miles, assuming you change the oil every 5K with synthetic ($450), change the air filter twice ($30), have the transmission flushed once even though Honda only recommends it at 100K (keep in mind this coming from a company that forgot how to properly design the damn things from 1998 - 2003) (around $50). Acura's rear vtm-4 fluid change ($40). With all this, you still are looking at less than $1000, so save yourself the dough.
For those non do-it-yourselfers, again: skip the plan. Taking the car to Jiffy lube, or even the dealer, just to have the engine oil changed every 5k will only run you about $540. Four tire rotations/balances will run $120, and can be done anywhere. You can still change the air filter yourself, twice, for $30. It’s that easy. Take it to the dealer for the differential fluid changes and Tranny flush, which will probably be around $500, and your warranty is still in tact. All this and you’re still looking at only $1200 over the 90K miles.
$2.2K for 90K miles is ludicrous. Your not getting any benefit by having the dealer run extra “checks,” which is what they’re charging you an arm and a leg to do. First, this is something the car does anyway. Cars have internal computers monitoring everything major, so if something’s wrong, it’ll let ya know in the form of a check engine, low oil, low coolant, emissions, trans temp, alternator, VTM-4 or other "I don't feel good" light. Hell, there’s even a “loose gas cap” or general "!" light on some cars nowadays. It’s watching out for itself, and you.
Second, you have your brain, which will notice if the car isn’t driving the way it normally does. If something clunks that wasn't clunking before, or doesn't clunk that was clunking before, ?, you’ll know it.
Third, as mentioned in the article, unless stated otherwise, normal “wear and tear” items aren’t covered in these plans. Brake pads, rotors, wiper blades, lights, belts, and certain things like wheel bearings, CV joints and shocks/struts after the 36K bumper to bumper are not on the plan. It's not a warranty; it covers maintenance, not repairs.
Lastly, and most importantly, if your reason in buying one is safety-related, there's still no need. If the car gets inspected, your covered. Anything wrong with the suspension/brakes/tires that the dealer is checking and happily charging you $200 to do is definitely something that would be discovered while the car’s on the lift getting inspected for $59.95. You don’t need to pay the dealer the extra $100 to kick a tire, then spray tire shine on it. And if nothing is squeaking or making any other sort of racket, there’s no need to “lubricate” anything. Its not going to make the car happier.
Bottom line is these plans are overkill; They’re the reason why dealers get a bad rep for performing pointless services.
or even the dealer, just to have the engine oil changed every 5k will only run you about $540.
We have some dealers who charge like that around here too, lol. Most simple oil changes run around $40 though. The service writers generally work on commission and they try to push all sorts of stuff on you that the manufacturer doesn't recommend in the owner's manual.
btw, if you're still around, you can edit your post for 30 minutes.
Anyone notice on their SH-AWD multi function display that the torque split is always more to the front axle during straight line acceleration (mild to moderate acceleration)?
I thought the SH-AWD splits 70% torque to the rear axle during straight line acceleration and 70% to the front during cruising.
I think something may be wrong with my SH-AWD as the torque split is always more to the front...I also notice (and can feel) a "thumping" noise (lasts for a couple seconds) when I first hit 20 mph (cold weather and only occurs once...but reoccurs when I turn off the ignition and hit 20 mph again).
Bought new tech and entertainment in mid-October. Wife drives all locally. MPG is around 12-14. Anyone have any suggestions on what we are doing wrong? Is AWD always on?
My read out is the same, SH-AWD is front wheel drive biased, w/ more torque going to the front wheels under normal driving conditions. Now, BMW & Infiniti's AWD system is rear wheel drive biased. The theory w/ the former is improved fuel economy.
I can't speak to the thumping noise, but the power split for SH-AWD is fine. Read the following link (scroll 3/4s of the way down). It describes the way SH-AWD redirects torque for the 2008 models.
Note: although not mentioned in this summary (it was mentioned in the 2007 version of the document), SH-AWD splits power 55/45 during hard acceleration in a straight line on a level surface.
Why not more to the back?
Because the MDX's nose is heavier than the back and you want the power going to the wheels with the most grip. A tire bearing more weight should have better grip than one with less weight pressing it down. Note the weight distribution of the MDX (minus passengers) is 56/44 - almost identical to the power split. Of course, some weight will transfer to the rear during the very first few seconds of a hard launch, but most of the weight will level out. And when you add a driver and passenger, that's even more weight up front.
Take a look at the RDX and RL and you'll find the same thing. Their straight line torque split closely matches their weight distribution.
Now, when you accelerate up a hill, a great deal more weight is shifted to the rear wheels. And that weight stays there. In a situation like that, SH-AWD will send up to 70% of the torque to the rear. It's worth noting the RDX and RL do not have that feature.
I don't mean to be disrespectful or doubt your knowledge...but do you have any supporting evidence / documentation that would indicate the ABS is designed to pump up at around 20 mph?
I thought that with the Acura ABS system, the pump charges the accumulator during ignition key on rather than at 20 mph.
My sincere apologies for doubting you...and believe me, I love this car...and do definitely enjoy it!
Sorry, I looked around a bit and could not find anything specific. Call the dealer and then bring your answer back here for others. I still stand by my answer.
I have done a lot of research (other forums...like acuramdx.org also indicates that its the ABS). But no one can provide any proof.
I also found this website (mycarstats.com) that lists complaints, TSBs, and recalls for ANY make and model car. This is a GREAT website. For the earlier generation MDXs, there was a TSB by Acura indicating that the thumping noise (that occurs at low speeds and only occurs once during each ignition) was due to the ABS system running a check and that this was normal. Maybe thats why everyone is saying its the ABS...however, the new MDX body style has no TSBs and nothing in the manual to indicate this. I called the dealer for which a Tech told me over the phone that it was the ABS...
Overall, I am a little more relieved to hear that others have the same problem, that this was in fact a TSB on the old MDX (normal ABS operation), and that a Tech at a dealer indicated as much...but still not 100% convinced. I will be bringing in my car to the dealer one of these days to let them hear the noise.
It is the ABS check as others have also suggested. Our 07 MDX (tech) does this as well but it is not as loud as that on my Infiniti FX/35. However, I normally can not really hear the ABS check on our MDX (then again the wife drives that everyday).
Since this is the Service and repair post, I thought I would vent for a moment. I bought mine about 6 months ago. Since then: - the windshield was replaced because it had a flaw that was causing a distortion (blur) in my line of sight; - the seal on the passenger side front door was replaced; - the thresholds at each door were fixed, they were installed wrong initially; - the rear clunk was repaired; - a crack in the dashboard so big I could put my finger through it was closed;
It has now been the shop for 4 days: - one of the rear struts was replaced; - one of the mufflers was replaced because an interior baffle broke; - it has an interminent starting problem they can't identify; - the radio and NAV routinely require me to enter the security code to work (likely related to the starting problem). It's bad when you have the radio security code memorized. - the clunk is back; - the door handles on the driver's side were catching/sticking.
My car has had more warranty work in the first 6 months than my 1980 Chevy Citation had (who remembers the GM X cars??) Why am I so lucky. I really love this vehicle, but am I the only one who has so many build quality (lack of quality) issues? I bought an extended warranty because I no longer have the confidence that this vehicle will hold up. Funny thing, I picked this over the Cadillac SRX (even though its a Caddy, it drives fantastic and the fit and finish is so much better than the MDX), I picked the MDX over the SRX because I "knew" the Acura would just be built better. My father ended up buying an SRX after I bought my MDX and he has had NO warranty repairs. I guess the American cars do now compete. I am so lucky I should play the lottery.
Oh well. Good luck everyone. I still love the MDX and, silly me, I would probably buy it again.
Comments
Good Luck!!
Call Pohanka Acura Dealer in Chantilly VA and ask for the service department. Ask for a technician named Russel and ask him where he found the TSB and find out what the TSB # is. Then if you could share it with others on this website, it would reduce the number of calls to the dealer/technician.
Just about every make/model has a similar discussion here.
I just don't want to spend a lot of dough on a problem.
We are sad that the '04 is gone (we actually like the styling better of the old model and I do not like paying the $18K), but we are glad that we were not in my Jeep since the outcome of the accident would likely have been worse. Nobody was seriously hurt (chest hurts but that is due to the seat belt and airbag).
We looked around and decided the MDX is still the best option. When we purchased the '04 we had several criteria - reliable, safe, three rows, not a minivan, and heated front seats - and the MDX was the only option. Now there are others but the MDX is still best.
We did not have a single problem on the '04 that had 53,000 miles. We considered the new Buick Enclave and other comparable SUV's and nothing makes my wife as happy as her old MDX.
Truly, the only two problems with the car is that it is a magnet for dings (no side guards) and it is nearly impossible to vacuum between the center front column and the seats. I just came up with the idea of blowing the dirt out of that crevice.
Please note, we would probably buy the Enclave if the name of the manufacturer was Acura instead of Buick. Buick is the best GM maker of cars and it gets good reliability ratings, but we were just not quite sure if buying the Enclave (at $40K+) would be the right choice even though we think it is the better SUV. If we had more money and thought we would not own the auto for 150,000 miles, we would have taken the chance on the Buick.
Oh - if you want to hear the sound of a jet every time you step on the gas, buy an V8 Jeep GC. It really is kind of loud and the Acura is so quiet. I actually thought the car was not shifting right after not driving the Jeep for a month one time because it was so loud. Just normal operations.
Is there anything on the market that can help mask these scratches w/out adversely affecting the glass or visibility?
I bought it from the Honda dealer parts department and took it home to install it. It did not appear to fit properly and I tried leaving it out in the sun to stretch and working it from every angle. Finally I took it in to the dealer and sheepishly admitted to them that I could not install a simple nose mask. They tried it also and found it to be incorrectly manufactured. They brought another one out and it fit like a glove.
Moral of the story is that you should keep on them about an OEM fit, or have them take it back.
We just bought an '08 MDX last night and the finance guy offered us the option of buying a prepaid maintenance agreement (to be performed at that particular dealer). Options available are:
all service up to 55k miles : $1,312
all service up to 75k miles: $1,852
all service up to 90k miles: $2,264
I am curious if folks here have bought these and whether they think it's a good deal.
Thanks,
Greg
So if you can get routine maintenance etc they are worth it in my view. We love the car otherwise.
Now you have me worried, I thought acura had ironed out the tranny problems by '04 model year. Also have an '04 w/ 52k and no tranny problems yet. How much would that have run you if you hadn't had the extended warranty? We don't have one. Do you know if it is too late to get one now?
I ask because the IIHS just published results that showed the MDX, and virtually all Acuras made before 2007, flunking the rear-end collision tests. I won't say more, you can find a lengthy discussion at Consumer Reports I initiated that contains the links to the IIHS tests and the likely causes of the failures: http://discussions.consumerreports.org/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=1&nav=messages&webta- g=cr-38auluxsuvgj&tid=7694
The new 2007 MDX (if produced after April of that year) passes all the IIHS tests --- not just rear-end, but front and sideways --- with flying colors. Hence my concern to deal with the big safety deficiency in the pre-2007 model.
Michael
I'm not sure but there may be a 100,000 warranty on this issue. Im not sure.
The cost for a reman transmission and labor probably $2500- 3000 im guessing.
The service dept cautioned that I might get a worse condition than what I was experiencing because it is a remanufactured unit.
It is working fine however
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Did you ever get the wind noise issue resolved in your '07 MDX? Dealership ordered all three seals to try to fix the noise in mine.
For any do-it-yourselfer questioning whether to pay for a service plan, the answer is a resounding “no.” For 90K miles, assuming you change the oil every 5K with synthetic ($450), change the air filter twice ($30), have the transmission flushed once even though Honda only recommends it at 100K (keep in mind this coming from a company that forgot how to properly design the damn things from 1998 - 2003) (around $50). Acura's rear vtm-4 fluid change ($40). With all this, you still are looking at less than $1000, so save yourself the dough.
For those non do-it-yourselfers, again: skip the plan. Taking the car to Jiffy lube, or even the dealer, just to have the engine oil changed every 5k will only run you about $540. Four tire rotations/balances will run $120, and can be done anywhere. You can still change the air filter yourself, twice, for $30. It’s that easy. Take it to the dealer for the differential fluid changes and Tranny flush, which will probably be around $500, and your warranty is still in tact. All this and you’re still looking at only $1200 over the 90K miles.
$2.2K for 90K miles is ludicrous. Your not getting any benefit by having the dealer run extra “checks,” which is what they’re charging you an arm and a leg to do. First, this is something the car does anyway. Cars have internal computers monitoring everything major, so if something’s wrong, it’ll let ya know in the form of a check engine, low oil, low coolant, emissions, trans temp, alternator, VTM-4 or other "I don't feel good" light. Hell, there’s even a “loose gas cap” or general "!" light on some cars nowadays. It’s watching out for itself, and you.
Second, you have your brain, which will notice if the car isn’t driving the way it normally does. If something clunks that wasn't clunking before, or doesn't clunk that was clunking before, ?, you’ll know it.
Third, as mentioned in the article, unless stated otherwise, normal “wear and tear” items aren’t covered in these plans. Brake pads, rotors, wiper blades, lights, belts, and certain things like wheel bearings, CV joints and shocks/struts after the 36K bumper to bumper are not on the plan. It's not a warranty; it covers maintenance, not repairs.
Lastly, and most importantly, if your reason in buying one is safety-related, there's still no need. If the car gets inspected, your covered. Anything wrong with the suspension/brakes/tires that the dealer is checking and happily charging you $200 to do is definitely something that would be discovered while the car’s on the lift getting inspected for $59.95. You don’t need to pay the dealer the extra $100 to kick a tire, then spray tire shine on it. And if nothing is squeaking or making any other sort of racket, there’s no need to “lubricate” anything. Its not going to make the car happier.
Bottom line is these plans are overkill; They’re the reason why dealers get a bad rep for performing pointless services.
We have some dealers who charge like that around here too, lol. Most simple oil changes run around $40 though. The service writers generally work on commission and they try to push all sorts of stuff on you that the manufacturer doesn't recommend in the owner's manual.
btw, if you're still around, you can edit your post for 30 minutes.
I didn't connect the dots since I do my oil at 7,500 mile intervals, so I'm about half that number.
That reminds me that you can use the True Cost to Own tool to pull out maintenance costs and compare that against the cost of a service plan.
I thought the SH-AWD splits 70% torque to the rear axle during straight line acceleration and 70% to the front during cruising.
I think something may be wrong with my SH-AWD as the torque split is always more to the front...I also notice (and can feel) a "thumping" noise (lasts for a couple seconds) when I first hit 20 mph (cold weather and only occurs once...but reoccurs when I turn off the ignition and hit 20 mph again).
Any thoughts???
Please let me know.
thanks
http://www.hondanews.com/categories/712/releases/4235
Note: although not mentioned in this summary (it was mentioned in the 2007 version of the document), SH-AWD splits power 55/45 during hard acceleration in a straight line on a level surface.
Why not more to the back?
Because the MDX's nose is heavier than the back and you want the power going to the wheels with the most grip. A tire bearing more weight should have better grip than one with less weight pressing it down. Note the weight distribution of the MDX (minus passengers) is 56/44 - almost identical to the power split. Of course, some weight will transfer to the rear during the very first few seconds of a hard launch, but most of the weight will level out. And when you add a driver and passenger, that's even more weight up front.
Take a look at the RDX and RL and you'll find the same thing. Their straight line torque split closely matches their weight distribution.
Now, when you accelerate up a hill, a great deal more weight is shifted to the rear wheels. And that weight stays there. In a situation like that, SH-AWD will send up to 70% of the torque to the rear. It's worth noting the RDX and RL do not have that feature.
I don't mean to be disrespectful or doubt your knowledge...but do you have any supporting evidence / documentation that would indicate the ABS is designed to pump up at around 20 mph?
I thought that with the Acura ABS system, the pump charges the accumulator during ignition key on rather than at 20 mph.
My sincere apologies for doubting you...and believe me, I love this car...and do definitely enjoy it!
Wish I could have been more helpful
I also found this website (mycarstats.com) that lists complaints, TSBs, and recalls for ANY make and model car. This is a GREAT website. For the earlier generation MDXs, there was a TSB by Acura indicating that the thumping noise (that occurs at low speeds and only occurs once during each ignition) was due to the ABS system running a check and that this was normal. Maybe thats why everyone is saying its the ABS...however, the new MDX body style has no TSBs and nothing in the manual to indicate this. I called the dealer for which a Tech told me over the phone that it was the ABS...
Overall, I am a little more relieved to hear that others have the same problem, that this was in fact a TSB on the old MDX (normal ABS operation), and that a Tech at a dealer indicated as much...but still not 100% convinced. I will be bringing in my car to the dealer one of these days to let them hear the noise.
Hope this helps you all...
- the windshield was replaced because it had a flaw that was causing a distortion (blur) in my line of sight;
- the seal on the passenger side front door was replaced;
- the thresholds at each door were fixed, they were installed wrong initially;
- the rear clunk was repaired;
- a crack in the dashboard so big I could put my finger through it was closed;
It has now been the shop for 4 days:
- one of the rear struts was replaced;
- one of the mufflers was replaced because an interior baffle broke;
- it has an interminent starting problem they can't identify;
- the radio and NAV routinely require me to enter the security code to work (likely related to the starting problem). It's bad when you have the radio security code memorized.
- the clunk is back;
- the door handles on the driver's side were catching/sticking.
My car has had more warranty work in the first 6 months than my 1980 Chevy Citation had (who remembers the GM X cars??) Why am I so lucky. I really love this vehicle, but am I the only one who has so many build quality (lack of quality) issues? I bought an extended warranty because I no longer have the confidence that this vehicle will hold up. Funny thing, I picked this over the Cadillac SRX (even though its a Caddy, it drives fantastic and the fit and finish is so much better than the MDX), I picked the MDX over the SRX because I "knew" the Acura would just be built better. My father ended up buying an SRX after I bought my MDX and he has had NO warranty repairs. I guess the American cars do now compete. I am so lucky I should play the lottery.
Oh well. Good luck everyone. I still love the MDX and, silly me, I would probably buy it again.