Please bear with my many questions as I am "new" to this sort of stuff. As I understand it, the full time transfer case is essentially a transfer case with an "open" diffeential. Does this mean that if ANY one wheel slips, most of the power goes to THAT wheel and you are stuck? How does this differ from the PART-TIME transfer case where the transfer case is "locked". With PART-TIME 4wd if one wheel slips, what happens?
My understanding with a front-rear differential in the case of full time 4wd is that the front can slip independent of the rear. Unless the differential has some sort of limited slip, I would think one wheel would still get most of the power if it was slipping, but now it could be a front wheel as well?! Frankly I don't see the point.
At least you can still lock the differential. In that case the front and rear work together and then it takes a front and a rear locked together to slip. That's why I got the limited slip rear end and part-time 4wd. In 2wd, two rear wheels have to slip together. And in 4wd lock, the limited-slip seems to benefit the front as well. To what degree though I'm unsure. I know the manual says to be careful in 4wd lock because locking up the front brakes will affect the rear as well even though there are anti-lock rear brakes standard.
Here's where my understanding starts to break down. Does the front have a differential as well? It has to if the hubs don't unlock. Is is limited-slip? If not, when the rear is tied to the front even with a limited-slip rear, one front wheel could still spin with the back two. Still, three out of four ain't bad. I guess that's why Jeep's Quadra drive has 3 limited-slip devices. Theoretically you should be able to spin all four!
Somebody feel free to help me out if I missed something here.
Do the 00' Dakota's come with any interior options other than grey or agate? I have a 98 Ram Quad I'm going to trade/sell that has Camel cloth interior. I really like this color with Emerald Green Ext(sport). Also, are the 00' 2wd and 4wd differences the same as in 99'? i.e. 4wd higher clearance and fender flares?
I notice that there is an available option called "Engine - Maximum Cooling". Now I'm not a thermodynamics expert, but it seems logical to me that anything which contributes to engine cooling might improve A/C performance. Opinions anyone?
Apparently, Agate and Mist Gray are the only interiors available, and Dodge also seems to be picky about which interior goes with which exterior color.
I am very interested in purchasing a new 2000 Dakota sport with a 4.7 liter, 5-speed, regular cab, with all the options. Can anyone tell me the dealer invoice price? How much over dealer invoice should I pay? Also what kind of gas mileage would I be looking at with that 4.7?
I'm experiencing engine noise with my new 99 Dakota 3.9L. This noise is most noticible while cruising on the freeway at 2200 RPM. Sounds like sitting in the rear of a DC-9 airplane, and almost as loud.
The dealer put on 40 miles test driving, and spent all day with it checking things. They could not find any exhaust leaks or problems, but have decided to put on a new exhaust system (which I'm waiting for to come in). I have very little confidence this will solve the problem (short of leaks, what could possibly be wrong with the exhaust system?).
I'm interested if other owners of the 3.9L have noticed unusually lound engine noise while cruising? Other than this noise, this is a super truck -- but I just can't live with it like this. Also interested in any advice what I should to next if the new exhaust system does not solve the problem.
Hey...I'm looking at buying a new truck, and I've narrowed my choice to the 2000 Dakota V6 and the 2000 Ranger with the 4.0 V6. I was curious as to how you would compare the two. I've thought about the automatic trannys, but I wouldn't mind getting the 5 speed manual (as I've heard bad things about the Dakota auto trannys). I would like to hear some input from you guys about the pros and cons of your Dakotas. I'm not really biased towards any automaker. I currently drive an old 86 Ranger supercab, and I want something a bit newer. Thanks.
Don't know what your usage will be, but there really isn't much comparison. The trucks are definitely in different segments of the market - Dakota is just so much bigger.
That may be a good thing or a bad thing depending upon your choice. Tell us a little about yourself and your truck usage - hauling, towing, people carrying, on / off road, weather conditions etc. and we can probably be a little more help.
As far as the auto tranny goes Dodge has had a bad reputation, they are getting better but there is still a stigma. My personal view is that many of the more recent problems are as a result of transmissions being damaged by incorrect towing practices and then being put down to tranny problems. That said there are still the occasional problems.
As far as I know the Grand Cherokee tranny is only coming across bolted to the 4.7. And guess what - Grand Cherokee auto tranny complaints are happening.
If any one is interested there is a serious awareness of this problem at DC (if you're not interested don't read the next bit).
DC has set up a dedicated steering committee to look at the way that they develop automatic transmissions. This is headed up by some seriously important people - I think the committee chair has some wonderfully imaginative title like Senior VP, Powertrains and Transmissions.
Anyway, they have been given the task of developing a new series of transmissions, and when I say new I mean new. The starting point is a blank piece of paper (or computer screen), these won't be based on anything that exists today, they won't utilise existing parts. The first deliverable is the auto tranny for the 2002 Ram redesign, with more following.
Engine cooling does directly affect A/C performance. The AC compressor runs off the engine via a belt. The only time the two interact would be if you were close to overheating and had to shut off the A/C to remove the load from the engine. That said, maximum engine cooling is still a very good thing.
Also, only the 4.7l uses the multispeed auto transmission. The rest of the engines still use the old stuff.
As far as usage...just basic pt A to pt B driving. I don't do any towing, and I don't haul much at all (except for the occasional furniture moving). I do not do much highway driving, and there isn't anywhere around where I live (VA) to off road (unless I want to drive 3 or 4 hours from here).I'm also thinking about a Club Cab to haul friends, etc, but, I am in college, so price is an issue. I'm just looking for something to drive around in, I want a truck, and I like the Dakotas and Rangers. Thanks for your feedback.
Well if you want people in the back Dodge is probably better, though that is relative. None of the club cabs are going to have that much room in back so best throw all those college girls in there ..... those were the days.....
Oops sorry, In your case it really is going to come down to personal preference in terms of comfort, looks, handling etc. Because you aren't going to be pushing the limits of your truck it really is up to you.
Course Dakota beats Ranger every time, but this is a Dakota topic.
Markregal, I just got my 2000 3.9L 5-speed delivered to me about a week ago. I noticed that the engine whines a bit when it is revved, but not much more than other v6-powered vehicles I have driven. I only notice under hard acceleration. Mine doesn't make any exhaust leak-type noises, though.
My question to all 2000 3.9L 5-speed owners is this: Does your throwout bearing clunk whenever the clutch is engaged? I have taken my truck to two dealers, and they both say that it is a "normal" noise for this vehicle to make. I don't like to hear clunks from my transmission, so I wonder if anyone else has heard the same thing. My dealer said that the reason is because the distance from the bearing to the plate (clutch or pressure, I can't remember) is longer than it used to be on the old trannys.
I test drove two Dakotas yesterday, both with the 4.7L V8 and auto trans, one with the 3.55 rear end and the other with the 3.92. The 3.92 DEFINITELY had the better acceleration. In my opinion, for anyone planning to get the auto trans, the 3.92 rear end is the way to go! Also, does anyone know if bedliners(Pendaliner, et al) and yet available for the Quad Cab?
Tire chains are not approved for use on my Dak. No kidding, this is straight from the owners manual. I ordered the tire and handling package on my new 2000 4x4 clubcab. The stock tires are 31x10.5 wranglers, a nice size tire for a midsized pickup and I am pleased overall with the handling. But there is a major drawback, apparently they leave insufficient clearance for tire chains because the owners manual (check under tire chains) explicitly states 4x4 with 31x10.5 may not use chains. Amazing. I was planning to purchase the new michelin arctic alpin, a premium soft rubber snow tire, when they came out with the 31x10.5. I suppose I could go with a smaller size but that would throw off the speedometer/odometer and I don't want to do that. Even though I am authorized to drive right past the chains required sign with 4wd engaged and approved traction devices, I am still required to carry chains to enter a snow zone here in WA state. Has anyone out there had any experience running chains on a 4x4 Dak with 31x10.5 tires? I DON'T WANT TO BEAT UP MY BRAND NEW TRUCK SLAPPIN' IRON. Thanks.
I'm currently shopping for a 2000 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4x2 with the 4.7 and 5spd. The dealer here in Phoenix has quoted $300 over invoice, but the invoice contains $300 for "national advertising" and $200 for "regional advertising". Anyone out there heard of this? If so, what was the outcome with the purchase (did you agree that the $500 was part of the invoice and pay it or did you have them cut it out)? Also, what was the total purchase price? The dealer wants $20,500 for a fairly loaded truck ( that I would order ), no power seats, no radio upgrade, don't exactly need a block heater in Phoenix, but the rest of the toys will be there.
I am not sure about tire chains on the 31x10.5 tires but I do know that the shop manual says that if the diameter of the tires is alterd from stock, the 'computer' MUST be re-programmed to ensure that the ABS, Airbags... etc operate properly (Not ONLY the speedo is affected)
This is mentioned several times in the shop manual. (I have the very same manual that the factory prints for the dealerships)
This could be GOOD or BAD depending on your point of view. If you wish to change the tire size, I assume that the equipment is available to re-program so it may not be a big deal refering to your speedo concerns.
How do I get that shop manual that bpeebles mentioned?
I too am looking at the 2000 Dakota, CC 4x4 with the tire and handling package and have thought about chains. I prefer to do most of my own work and would love my own shop manual.
JCWhitney shows chains that look like they would not take up much space.
Thanks for the excellent tip on reprogramming for a change in tire size. I will be sure to do nothing without the help and blessing of the dealer. I explained the situation to them already. The service manager shrugged and said "I don't make them". Gee, thanks. I'll be checking out JCWhitney for chains but I think the answer may lay elsewhere. I'm tempted to just pile some iron in the back with the intention of never hanging it. The Bears will be busy with the Big Trucks.
Did anyone ever get to the bottom of the ticking noise. Mine still ticks. I'm tired of it; tonight it stopped for a while; I've decided it has something to do with the fuel delivery system. Help. John
Can't believe you'd ever need them with decent tires and 4 wheel drive; now then, cables, not chains are the way to go; easy to put on and take off and do the job fine; they take up very little room and are readily available earlier in the season the better; I usually get mine at Pep Boys here in Calif. Wheel wells on the Dakota look huge, should be no problemo. JOHN
Cables are probably the best answer for the 31X10.5 tires. I have heard of times when the roads are icy that traction devices are even required for 4X4s. It usually happens when it is icy and seems to be the last step before road closure. I guess you can't go all out with 4 wheel chains without getting smaller tires installed, computer updated, etc. Honestly though, I don't see the clearance problem on the rear tires. Maybe I didn't look close enough. Steering clearance is probably an issue on the fronts.
My 4.7l ticks. It is most definitely related to the fuel delivery system. The faster you go and (probably more accurately) the more fuel being pumped the louder it is. When I switch o/d off it gets louder, when I shift into neutral (both at highway speeds) it goes away. It was a little annoying at first, but I barely notice it any more. I doubt there's much chance of getting rid of the noise without a bunch of insulation and some sort of isolation mounts. Dodge will just say "That's normal..."
houtslaw: Couple weeks ago stopped into dealer with some questions. The one about the ticking sound the mech. told me that the relay or solinoid is on the firewall. It fires with 12volt as opposed to the 12volts dropping off. I guess that's a reason for the noise. But I was surprised to see where the location was. Mine is so low that you have to really be listening for it. Not annoying to me. But if it's a concern or bother I think it wouldn't take much to insulate the solinoid. Bpeebles: I would also like to know how or where to get the overhall manuel to.
Using cable chains just on the rear is beginning to sound like a plan. I have in the past dismissed them out of hand. Following a storm I see busted cable chains littering the road like armadillos in the Lone Star. But it could just be the aftermath of the uninitiated. I still wouldn't want to do much spinning with them. Can anyone recommend a brand of above average strength and durability? Thanks.
Just bought a Quad Cab 4x4 last week. I'm looking for a set of tow hooks. The dealer wants $165, they must be nuts! Does anybody know of a good source for a set of hooks. Also, is there a particular brand of tow hitch that is easy to mount. i've heard that Hidden Hitch has one that bolts on fairly easily. Thanks, Scott
Scott, check out www.cskauto.com for hooks. They list one for eleven bucks. I about choked on the mopar price myself. Drill down through Accessories, Truck and SUV, Anchors and Hardware, Black Tow Hook. It's a kit with mounting hardware. I don't know if it fits the Dak specifically though.
Finally made the plunge. 2000club 4x4 Sport plus 4.7 auto 3.55 rear. No limited slip. Thru autobytel. Quick easy buy. $100 under invoice w/Farm Bureau. You mentioned you had some issues with the Autobytel deal. What were they? I may or may not have some too. BTW no ticking, but do have fuel tank pump humming, same as my wifes 94 Econoline. Ford says that is normal.
My Company is buying me a 2000 Dakota 3.9 club cab. Does anyone out there own, or has anyone test-driven a 3.9 club cab? If so, please give me your opinion regarding power/transmission & overall performance. Thanks. Scott
I have a '97 club cab v-6. They perform the same. Mine has the standard 3.55 rear end, and performance is mediocre. Although I like the truck, it is not quick, and mileage is poor - 15.5 mpg city, 19-20 highway. Also, my engine started needing 93 octane at about 20,000 miles, to keep from pinging. A lot of Dodge engines have this problem.
Just test drove a 2000 Dakota Club Cab 4x4 SLT with 4.7L and auto. I must say, overall I was very impressed with the truck. I was shocked at how smooth that 4.7L engine runs. I experienced almost no vibration/harshness through the steering wheel. The engine has more than enough power. I also found the ride to be quite good. The interior is nicely laid out, handsome, and very quiet I thought. I did notice the ticking sound everyone is speaking about.....coming from the passenger side dash area. It was very faint and probably normal I would think. In fact, it was so faint, some might not even notice it. I didn't find it too terribly annoying and I'm usually pretty picky about things like that. The sticker price was a little over $24,000. I thought this was quite reasonable considering it was pretty much loaded.....even had the full time 4 wheel drive system. I know I won't be paying MSRP so actual price would probably be somewhere in the low 20's. I think you can't beat this truck in bang for the buck. It's roomier and has more power than anything else in the class with a sticker price that is very comparable.
I'll be visiting the Dodge dealer again, probably next month when I'm ready to buy. I want to test drive a V6 for the heck of it to compare. But I'm pretty sure there won't be much of a comparison and I'll want the 4.7. I'm in no rush since I have a perfectly good running ten year old station wagon hauling my stuff right now. So, I may wait for some good rebates to come out before I buy.
Just my two cents for now. Anyone have any good buying advice for me?
I have a 1995 Dakota Club cab 4X2 with the 3.9 v6 and I fing the performance as far as acceleration goes to be good. In fact it is really easy to spin the tires. It has 48000 miles with no ping using regular gas. A 4x4 truck would probably do better with a v8 also if you plan to tow a large trailer get the v8. I agree that the fuel mileage could be better.
I got the REAL shop manual thru the dealer when I ordered my Dak. I ALWAYS ask the dealer to 'throw in the shop manual' as I close the deal. At that point, he does not want to 'lose the deal' and agrees. I believe it is about $90US if ordered outright.
It explains many of the 'systems' of the Dakota that are not described elsewhere... i.e. ... How to access the built-in diagnostic features of the on-board computer using the ignition key and the 'engine trouble lite'. This gives me an 'edge' when I approach the service people with a problem. Since I make a living reading technical manuals and repairing $500,000 equipment, the simple Dakota systems are a trivial matter.
Skip, I have the the truck you looked at except in the sport. I have no complaints. The mileage is not great but we knew all about that going in, right? I paid $500 over invoice using the costco buying service. There are better deals around but this was so painless I recommend it. The costco deal initiates online. The dealer then calls you to set up an appointment. I went in, they verified my costco number, quoted me $500 over, took my order and a down payment and that was it. They called me when it came in. I sat by the guy while he entered the data, saying yea or nay on all the options. I got exactly what I wanted--loaded. I made one mistake: not ordering a security system. The after market system I had installed was costlier, inferior and the installation screwed up the electrical system. I will never do that again. The best online service I found for pricing your dream machine with all the options is the one linked to the MSN site. Forewarned is forearmed. Good Luck.
I visit many of the boards on this sight because I am not biased toward any auto maker and i'm taking them all into consideration. I have not yet decided I want the Dakota. I will test drive everything before I make a decision....probably drive them all twice in fact. The only concern for me is how reliable these trucks are, especially with a new engine and tranny. We will see. all I can say for now is I was very impressed with my initial test drive of the Dakota. Man, it really is a tough looking truck isn't it?
As far as buying is concerned, my home town Dodge truck dealership....who also sells Chevy trucks on the same lot.....has a good reputation and I have a feeling I can get a pretty good deal from them if armed with the right info.
Welp. I'm about to buy a 2000 Dodge Dakota. It has the following options: Black Clear Coat, Heavey Duty Service Group, 40/20/40 Split Bench, Sport Plus, Deluxe Convenience Group, Power Overhead Convience Group, 4 wheel ABS, Front Floor Mats, 4 speed auto, 4.7L v8, Anti-Spn Differential, way power drivers seat, power 6x9 mirrors, rear sliding window, am/fm/cass/cd, steering wheel audio controls, and leather wrap steering wheel. Now... From what the dealer said, and from what I saw, the 40/20/40 bench seating is the SAME thing as the bucket seats, except the armrest/console can be put up and become a third seat for the front, which I would never use. But actually, the console in the bucket seats would be filled with all my crap/trash, so I don't know, it could be a good thing. What's your guy's opinions. How is the bench seat -vs- the buckets? Is there a physical differnce in the actual driver and passenger seats? Thanks for all your help
hiattw: I don't think that there are any physical differences between the seats. With the exception of the armrest in the center with the split bench.The other small item with the split bench is a better cup holder in the center. It's adjustable. With the bucket seats it's just one size. Also it's $200.00 more for the bucket seats. I do think it is wise to go with the power seats so you can take care of some of the lumbar support that you really get with the regular seats. That's the biggest pitfal to me with the seats. Jim
I opted for the split bench seats because I didn't like the center console on the buckets. Be it known that the center, fold-down armrest opens up to provide storage. I can fit about ten cds in it. Also, in the down position it provides an armrest up where you need it at elbow height. With the bench seats you can scoot across unimpeded and, without passengers, the remaining seat area is a more usable space for cargo. But then I may be just supporting my own decision.
As for lumbar support with the power seats, I doubt it would be of much use. I am accustomed to the expensive air ride seats found in newer model Big Trucks. They have adjustable bladders for lumbar support. I find them of little value. If you really need extra back support, as I do, they are entirely inadequate. A rolled up towel strategically placed will do a better job.
I think the bucket seats are an inch or two wider. Im guessing, because the fold down console of the 40-20-40 arrangement is about 12" wide, but the bucket seat console is narrower, maybe only 6-8" wide. I may be wrong. I like the fold down for two reasons: 1- an extra seat in a crunch 2- I use it all the time to write on, I use my truck much like an office.
I took delivery of a 99' SLT Plus CC in June. Had to order it but got a great deal. I ordered it with HD Svc grp, Tow Pkg, Handeling Pkg and 3.92 gears w/Anti Slip Dif. Has run great up until abount 7k. Started getting knock under the hood, sounds like valve chatter. Tried 89 oct gas for three or four tanks with no change. If anything it has gotten worse. Apparently solenoid on firewall is not applicable for this year/model. I took it in and Dealer acknowledged problem but said it was normal. I'm not buying that, Has anyone had similar problem.
I took delivery of a 99' SLT Plus CC in June. Had to order it but got a great deal. I ordered it with HD Svc grp, Tow Pkg, Handeling Pkg and 3.92 gears w/Anti Slip Dif. Has run great up until abount 7k. Started getting knock under the hood, sounds like valve chatter. Tried 89 oct gas for three or four tanks with no change. If anything it has gotten worse. Apparently solenoid on firewall is not applicable for this year/model. I took it in and Dealer acknowledged problem but said it was normal. I'm not buying that, Has anyone had similar problem. Also around the same time Brakes got real grabby. I pulled wheels and the pads were still good. Had warped rotors which dealer replaced but I can't change them to other than Factory rotors until 12k warranty runs out. Will take it back in just prior to 12k for another set as per service Manager. Then I'll replace with after market once those go south.
Well, it's looking like the dakota I want from the other dealer might be already taken. Somebody might want it. I should know tomarrow, Thursday by sure. I could get a nice red one, that's exactly the same from another dealer. It has everything I want on it that the other one does, except the front ABS. Does the Front ABS really make a difference? I live in Southern California, so we don't get that much rain. Just trying to get your guy's opinions. I don't know that much about ABS vs non-ABS cars [I'm only 17]. So, do you drive it any differantly, and does the car drive any differantly. I know you're suppose to keep your foot on the abs cars. That's about it =]
William, I drive a leased vehicle with abs brakes front and rear. In a panic stop condition, you almost think you will be unable to stop in time. They work in a pulsating manner to prevent wheel lock up during braking. I think they are okay on the rear brake system, as you cannot steer the rear wheels. My leased vehicle, a Ford Expedition, does not brake as well as vehicles I have driven with rear or no abs brakes at all. If you look far enough to the front and don't climb up the rear of the vehicle in front of you, you will be okay. Actually, I should follow my own advice, as I am quite impatient. Good luck with whatever truck you acquire. Happy new year!
William, I have four wheel ABS on my 2000 Dak. I highly recommend it, it works like a dream. It's nothing like I could have imagined before. There was an attempt to institute an ABS standard for commercial vehicles years ago before the technology was ripe. It was a disaster that generated a lot of bad press--deservedly so. Forget about that, on the Dak at least, this technology is now for real. I tested the system on my first trip. I performed a panic stop in a rain storm on a downhill curve with water over the road. It was nothing short of awesome. I felt the pulsing as the ABS took over and that little truck put roots down into the concrete. The system allows you to stop and steer at the same time in a way that even a professional driver cannot match with a non ABS vehicle. As for whether or not you need it in southern calif., I say this. I have logged a million miles over the road through some of the worse roads and weather conditions you could imagine. And one of most dangerous trips I ever made was across the LA basin and out to Oxnard. It was in heavy traffic through the first rain following one of the longest dry spells in recent memory. An eight month accumulation of oil and rubber on the pavement mixed with the water to make it as slick as ice. Yes William, you need ABS. In addition to the superiority of ABS performance there is the incalculably important fact that the system is Idiot Proof. Avoiding skids, recovering from skids, and negotiating obstacles at speed are high performance driving skills that the average driver just does not possess. In an emergency there is no time to think, if you have not been trained and are not well practiced so that your actions are instinctually correct it's too late. With ABS all you do is slam the brake pedal to the floor and point the steering wheel where you want to go. William, say you only needed it once in all the years you own that truck. Would it have been a good investment? YES! Trust me, I was seventeen once.
Comments
to this sort of stuff. As I understand it, the
full time transfer case is essentially a transfer
case with an "open" diffeential. Does this mean
that if ANY one wheel slips, most of the power
goes to THAT wheel and you are stuck? How does this differ from the PART-TIME transfer case where
the transfer case is "locked". With PART-TIME 4wd
if one wheel slips, what happens?
At least you can still lock the differential. In that case the front and rear work together and then it takes a front and a rear locked together to slip. That's why I got the limited slip rear end and part-time 4wd. In 2wd, two rear wheels have to slip together. And in 4wd lock, the limited-slip seems to benefit the front as well. To what degree though I'm unsure. I know the manual says to be careful in 4wd lock because locking up the front brakes will affect the rear as well even though there are anti-lock rear brakes standard.
Here's where my understanding starts to break down. Does the front have a differential as well? It has to if the hubs don't unlock. Is is limited-slip? If not, when the rear is tied to the front even with a limited-slip rear, one front wheel could still spin with the back two. Still, three out of four ain't bad. I guess that's why Jeep's Quadra drive has 3 limited-slip devices. Theoretically you should be able to spin all four!
Somebody feel free to help me out if I missed something here.
"Engine - Maximum Cooling". Now I'm not a thermodynamics expert, but it seems logical to me
that anything which contributes to engine cooling
might improve A/C performance. Opinions anyone?
http://www.autosite.com/new/grabbag/colors/1954.asp
Apparently, Agate and Mist Gray are the only interiors available, and Dodge also seems to be
picky about which interior goes with which exterior color.
Lots of information all things Dakota.
The dealer put on 40 miles test driving, and spent all day with it checking things. They could not find any exhaust leaks or problems, but have decided to put on a new exhaust system (which I'm waiting for to come in). I have very little confidence this will solve the problem (short of leaks, what could possibly be wrong with the exhaust system?).
I'm interested if other owners of the 3.9L have noticed unusually lound engine noise while cruising? Other than this noise, this is a super truck -- but I just can't live with it like this. Also interested in any advice what I should to next if the new exhaust system does not solve the problem.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks.
That may be a good thing or a bad thing depending upon your choice. Tell us a little about yourself and your truck usage - hauling, towing, people carrying, on / off road, weather conditions etc. and we can probably be a little more help.
As far as the auto tranny goes Dodge has had a bad reputation, they are getting better but there is still a stigma. My personal view is that many of the more recent problems are as a result of transmissions being damaged by incorrect towing practices and then being put down to tranny problems. That said there are still the occasional problems.
replaced by the Jeep multispeed auto tran, or is
that only for the 4.7L V8 option?
If any one is interested there is a serious awareness of this problem at DC (if you're not interested don't read the next bit).
DC has set up a dedicated steering committee to look at the way that they develop automatic transmissions. This is headed up by some seriously important people - I think the committee chair has some wonderfully imaginative title like Senior VP, Powertrains and Transmissions.
Anyway, they have been given the task of developing a new series of transmissions, and when I say new I mean new. The starting point is a blank piece of paper (or computer screen), these won't be based on anything that exists today, they won't utilise existing parts. The first deliverable is the auto tranny for the 2002 Ram redesign, with more following.
Also, only the 4.7l uses the multispeed auto transmission. The rest of the engines still use the old stuff.
Oops sorry, In your case it really is going to come down to personal preference in terms of comfort, looks, handling etc. Because you aren't going to be pushing the limits of your truck it really is up to you.
Course Dakota beats Ranger every time, but this is a Dakota topic.
My question to all 2000 3.9L 5-speed owners is this: Does your throwout bearing clunk whenever the clutch is engaged? I have taken my truck to two dealers, and they both say that it is a "normal" noise for this vehicle to make. I don't like to hear clunks from my transmission, so I wonder if anyone else has heard the same thing. My dealer said that the reason is because the distance from the bearing to the plate (clutch or pressure, I can't remember) is longer than it used to be on the old trannys.
Thanks.
4.7L V8 and auto trans, one with the 3.55 rear end
and the other with the 3.92. The 3.92 DEFINITELY
had the better acceleration. In my opinion, for
anyone planning to get the auto trans, the 3.92
rear end is the way to go! Also, does anyone know
if bedliners(Pendaliner, et al) and yet available
for the Quad Cab?
You can always get a spray in and then not have to worry about specific ones for the quad.
Thanks...
This is mentioned several times in the shop manual. (I have the very same manual that the factory prints for the dealerships)
This could be GOOD or BAD depending on your point of view. If you wish to change the tire size, I assume that the equipment is available to re-program so it may not be a big deal refering to your speedo concerns.
I too am looking at the 2000 Dakota, CC 4x4 with the tire and handling package and have thought about chains. I prefer to do most of my own work and would love my own shop manual.
JCWhitney shows chains that look like they would not take up much space.
I'll be checking out JCWhitney for chains but I think the answer may lay elsewhere. I'm tempted to just pile some iron in the back with the intention of never hanging it. The Bears will be busy with the Big Trucks.
My 4.7l ticks. It is most definitely related to the fuel delivery system. The faster you go and (probably more accurately) the more fuel being pumped the louder it is. When I switch o/d off it gets louder, when I shift into neutral (both at highway speeds) it goes away. It was a little annoying at first, but I barely notice it any more. I doubt there's much chance of getting rid of the noise without a bunch of insulation and some sort of isolation mounts. Dodge will just say "That's normal..."
Bpeebles: I would also like to know how or where to get the overhall manuel to.
Jim
The sticker price was a little over $24,000. I thought this was quite reasonable considering it was pretty much loaded.....even had the full time 4 wheel drive system. I know I won't be paying MSRP so actual price would probably be somewhere in the low 20's. I think you can't beat this truck in bang for the buck. It's roomier and has more power than anything else in the class with a sticker price that is very comparable.
I'll be visiting the Dodge dealer again, probably next month when I'm ready to buy. I want to test drive a V6 for the heck of it to compare. But I'm pretty sure there won't be much of a comparison and I'll want the 4.7. I'm in no rush since I have a perfectly good running ten year old station wagon hauling my stuff right now. So, I may wait for some good rebates to come out before I buy.
Just my two cents for now.
Anyone have any good buying advice for me?
Skip
I believe it is about $90US if ordered outright.
It explains many of the 'systems' of the Dakota that are not described elsewhere... i.e. ... How to access the built-in diagnostic features of the on-board computer using the ignition key and the 'engine trouble lite'.
This gives me an 'edge' when I approach the service people with a problem. Since I make a living reading technical manuals and repairing $500,000 equipment, the simple Dakota systems are a trivial matter.
As far as buying is concerned, my home town Dodge truck dealership....who also sells Chevy trucks on the same lot.....has a good reputation and I have a feeling I can get a pretty good deal from them if armed with the right info.
Talk to you later,
Skip
Black Clear Coat, Heavey Duty Service Group, 40/20/40 Split Bench, Sport Plus, Deluxe Convenience Group, Power Overhead Convience Group, 4 wheel ABS, Front Floor Mats, 4 speed auto, 4.7L v8, Anti-Spn Differential, way power drivers seat, power 6x9 mirrors, rear sliding window, am/fm/cass/cd, steering wheel audio controls, and leather wrap steering wheel. Now... From what the dealer said, and from what I saw, the 40/20/40 bench seating is the SAME thing as the bucket seats, except the armrest/console can be put up and become a third seat for the front, which I would never use. But actually, the console in the bucket seats would be filled with all my crap/trash, so I don't know, it could be a good thing. What's your guy's opinions. How is the bench seat -vs- the buckets? Is there a physical differnce in the actual driver and passenger seats? Thanks for all your help
William H. Hiatt III
I do think it is wise to go with the power seats so you can take care of some of the lumbar support that you really get with the regular seats. That's the biggest pitfal to me with the seats.
Jim
As for lumbar support with the power seats, I doubt it would be of much use. I am accustomed to the expensive air ride seats found in newer model Big Trucks. They have adjustable bladders for lumbar support. I find them of little value. If you really need extra back support, as I do, they are entirely inadequate. A rolled up towel strategically placed will do a better job.
1- an extra seat in a crunch
2- I use it all the time to write on, I use my truck much like an office.
already taken. Somebody might want it. I should know tomarrow, Thursday
by sure. I could get a nice red one, that's exactly the same from
another dealer. It has everything I want on it that the other one does,
except the front ABS. Does the Front ABS really make a difference? I
live in Southern California, so we don't get that much rain. Just trying
to get your guy's opinions. I don't know that much about ABS vs non-ABS
cars [I'm only 17]. So, do you drive it any differantly, and does the
car drive any differantly. I know you're suppose to keep your foot on
the abs cars. That's about it =]
Thanks for all your help
william
Bookitty
There was an attempt to institute an ABS standard for commercial vehicles years ago before the technology was ripe. It was a disaster that generated a lot of bad press--deservedly so. Forget about that, on the Dak at least, this technology is now for real.
I tested the system on my first trip. I performed a panic stop in a rain storm on a downhill curve with water over the road. It was nothing short of awesome. I felt the pulsing as the ABS took over and that little truck put roots down into the concrete. The system allows you to stop and steer at the same time in a way that even a professional driver cannot match with a non ABS vehicle.
As for whether or not you need it in southern calif., I say this. I have logged a million miles over the road through some of the worse roads and weather conditions you could imagine. And one of most dangerous trips I ever made was across the LA basin and out to Oxnard. It was in heavy traffic through the first rain following one of the longest dry spells in recent memory. An eight month accumulation of oil and rubber on the pavement mixed with the water to make it as slick as ice. Yes William, you need ABS.
In addition to the superiority of ABS performance there is the incalculably important fact that the system is Idiot Proof. Avoiding skids, recovering from skids, and negotiating obstacles at speed are high performance driving skills that the average driver just does not possess. In an emergency there is no time to think, if you have not been trained and are not well practiced so that your actions are instinctually correct it's too late. With ABS all you do is slam the brake pedal to the floor and point the steering wheel where you want to go.
William, say you only needed it once in all the years you own that truck. Would it have been a good investment? YES! Trust me, I was seventeen once.