Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

ateixeira

They usually reflash them. Aftermarket vendors, for instance, have you ship the ECU to them, they reprogram it to improve performance, and mail it back.

-juice

rob999

OK, I might as well add my off-topic post. I recently saw one of those old Ford Econoline cabover pickups (the "Roller Skate") with a 4-on-the-tree.

psg

What’s the safest way to lift all four corners off the ground? I thought the answer would be four jack stands. I’ve seen it done this way before. Since I had two stands, I went out bought two more. All the stands are identical and rated for 7000 lbs. As I got the new stands out of the box, I read the instructions (isn’t that a novel concept?) and they basically say, jack stands should not be used on the same side or to lift vehicles completely off the ground. Jack stands should only be used to lift one end or the other. What gives? Where I come from you can tell the rich from the poor by the number of cars they have jacked-up in their yard. :-)

Phil

ateixeira

They don't want the liability of suspending a car completely off the ground. If it's not level, or something bumps into it, it could rock off and fall down.

I've never needed all 4 wheels suspended simulatneously, though. I usually do 2 at a time, either both front, both back, or one entire side.

-juice

maverick1017

I have never read the piece of paper that come in jack boxes.

I have always jacked up all four sides but only to do tire rotations. If you plan on doing any work under the car the jacks don't lift the car high enough off the ground. The only time I went under the car with all four corner jacked was to check the exhaust piping for rust and find out where the cats are located (I was curious). That was a tight squeeze, although I was on a creeper at the time, so that might have something to do with it. In anycase I wouldn't leave the car jacked up on all fours for too long.

Mike

psg

That's what I thought but I wanted another opinion.

I probably won't ever need to lift our Legacy completely off the ground. However, I've decided to start rotating my own tires and the easiest way to do this on our other vehicles will be to get all four wheels in the air.

Phil

lark6

I'll move my old car/truck controls talk to the Cafe, following the helpful suggestion.

Ed

locke2c

what??? you have to get all four off the ground at times, can't be avoided.

the way is to jack under the rear differential, and then place jackstands under the frame back there. I know the car's unit-body but there are still some obvious beefy metal bits in front of the rear wheels. you'll see them.

then in front, jack on the jacking plate behind the oil pan. (NOT the oilpan itself.) then put two more jackstands up front, behind the front wheels.

-Colin

ateixeira

I rotate F<->R, not side-to-side. FWIW that is one of the methods they say you can use in the manual.

I actually RTFMed, maybe the first time ever! LOL

-juice

idahodoug

Easiest way is to use a piece of wood under the driver's seat floor pan to spread the load, and jack there to lift an entire side. Then swap front to rear and repeat on the other side. On Monday evening, I mentioned I was going to rotate the Legacy's tires and my wife expressed concern that it would take too much time before we put the kids down. I glanced at the clock, and said I'd be done in 20 minutes. 18 minutes later, I walked in the door - done. Most of you could beat that, as I have hubcaps to deal with - easily the most unpleasant part of the task.

IdahoDoug

c_hunter

That has happened once or twice on my Outback and my wife's Forester. I have gotten in the habit of turning the key to on and waiting for the fuel pump to pressurize the system before cranking the motor, and have not ever stalled since then. After you turn the key to on, you'll hear a whir/hum noise from the back of the vehicle for 2-3 seconds. After that stops, crank it over.

Craig

c_hunter

First "truck" I drove was my dad's old 70-something Dodge pickup with 3-speed shifter on the column, slant-6 engine, and the high beam clicker on the floor. Good memories!! I wish we kept that truck -- even under heavy abuse, it just wouldn't die and would probably still be running today.

Craig

joybell

Yup, it's that "fuel pressure riser". After waiting for 10 seconds all was OK. Is this something I have to live with or is it "fixable"?It did not stall on startup when I first got it, so what happened?

ateixeira

Doug: you forgot to add time to wash your hands, maybe shower! ;-)

You here my fuel pump priming up the pressure, it goes Whiirrrrr for about a second.

One other thought - when my battery was about to die, she started kind of rough. You may want to have the battery tested.

-juice

paisan

Fuel pressure riser is a common problem in modern vehicles. Bring it to the dealer and have em diagnose it and replace it

-mike

originalbitman

Count me in. My Stude PU has 3 on the tree, vacuum wipers, hill-holder, a generator and positive ground 6 volt electrical. Not to mention flathead 6. Easy to change the plugs but adjusting the valves in the block behind the manifolds is a bit of a pain. Oh yeah, oil bath air filter.

bit

paisan

Wow this is funny.

The guys over in NASIOC think I'm old talking about my 4 bbl Holley Carburetor on my 7.4l '74 Olds '98 Hardtop with a 3-speed automatic tranny!

-mike

rsholland

you are old by nasioc standards. I'm just plain ancient.

Bob

dcm61

Bob's so old he remembers (unless he's having a senior moment) when they introduced the steering wheel to replace the steering tiller. (ducking) ;-)

So Bob, did your first car have an electric starter? How about rubber tires?

DaveM

rsholland

was a '62 or '63 VW Beetle, the first year VW came with a fuel gauge. Prior to that year, VWs had a reserve gas tank that held about a gallon of gas. When you ran out of gas, you flipped a lever on the tunnel between the front seats, and off you went, hopefully to a gas station.

I remember VW made a big deal about now offering a fuel gauge in their advertising back then.

Bob

ateixeira

I want to know who has "driven" a horse-drawn buggy!

-juice

Edit: my Yamaha XT had that (and a choke), I guess that was old tech

rsholland

A Studebaker Conestoga Wagon.

Bob

c_hunter

Before you conclude it is a riser and make a big deal about it, does just 2-3 secs of waiting (for the fuel pump to pressurize) solve the problem? If so, I'd say it's normal.

Craig

idahodoug

I'm draining and refilling my 97 Legacy's auto tranny and the %$^& dipstick won't give me a solid reading. Like the engine oil dipstick, it has such a long horizontal run that the oil laying in the tube messes up the reading. Anyone know where I can find this info? The owner's manual only tells me the capacity is 8.3 qts - silent on a drain/fill amount.

Thanks - car's sitting with the hood up as I write, so any online source you can direct me to would also be excellent as all the shops are closed.

IdahoDoug

idahodoug

Juice,

Closest I can come is a '27 Model T. The throttle was a blinker stalk on one side of the wheel, and the opposite blinker stalk was the engine timing (!). Shifting was accomplished with a pedal on the floor from 1-2 and that was it for gears. Starting was with a crank. I've driven some exotic machinery in my 42 years, but that was a topper. Felt surprisingly solid and capable despite what we'd consider these days to be a spindly looking vehicle - don't forget the horrendous "roads" these things were able to handle.

Now how about that tranny capacity now that you're all digesting dinner?

IdahoDoug

subearu

My '00 Owner's Manual states 9.8 U.S. quarts (9.3 liters) for the AT capacity, with the AT differential taking 1.3 U.S. quarts (1.2 liters).

Not that any of that information helps, but it's all I know! ;-)

-Brian

subearu

my first car ('77 Nova) had the floor button high beams switch, which didn't always work on the first (or sometimes second or third)click. Manual brakes and steering too. (What was I thinking when I bought it?!?!?!)

I remember seeing a 3-on-the-tree manual, way back in the day ;-) I didn't understand why the guy was moving the lever so often, my parents had that same lever but only moved it to change directions forward and reverse.

-Brian

cptplt

update on my 98 Legacy a/c.

took it to another dealer with a Sube master tech, in 30 minutes they had diagnosed a bad compressor.(25 minutes of GM dealership paperwork - whats a Soobaroo Added Security thingymajig???- anyone seen these before??? this go through with regular factory work papers or what?? )- and 5 minutes of the guy looking at it!
since I was free all afternoon now, took it also to my independent sube senior master tech, in 1 minute it was diagnosed as bad compressor.

2 people who between them have over 4 decades of experience on Subarus is good enuff for me!

probably damaged last year when it was leaking bad.

anyway have to wait for the parts to come in, the dealer told me not to use the ac or it would really be history. that means driving the WRX to work everyday! what a punishment! though that does mean it will get dirty!

the moral of the story, never take your car to a dealer who has techs who ALL look like they haven't finished high school!

I think after this repair, I have gotten almost double my money back from my ext warranty! unfortunately I should not have gone to the closest dealer for this particular problem though to be fair they have been very good to me before this.(like when their techs were all post high school age)

Patti, many thanks to ?Steve Henderson at SOA for helping sort this out!

OT - saw a red 04 WRX on those elevated stands outside a Honda dealer, now what, and why, on earth would someone trade a new WRX for a Honda???

idahodoug

Juice,

Closest I can come is a '27 Model T. The throttle was a blinker stalk on one side of the wheel, and the opposite blinker stalk was the engine timing (!). Shifting was accomplished with a pedal on the floor from 1-2 and that was it for gears. Starting was with a crank. I've driven some exotic machinery in my 42 years, but that was a topper. Felt surprisingly solid and capable despite what we'd consider these days to be a spindly looking vehicle - don't forget the horrendous "roads" these things were able to handle.

Now how about that tranny capacity now that you're all digesting dinner?

IdahoDoug

psg

When I changed the fluid in my '95 2.2 a couple of months ago, I measured how much I drained out. As I recall it was more then the four quarts of ATF I had on hand. I cursed and added all four quarts. After checking the level on the dip stick it appeared to be within specs. I figured (maybe wrongly!) the worse that would happen is the tranny would start to slip and I would need to add more fluid. It has been several months and several thousand miles and all seems to be well.

Hope this helps.

Phil

joybell

...well, it's a cart, one horse power (a Morgan), power steering, power brakes, three speeds with clucking, very fuel efficient, very fun.

leo2633

is what I learned to drive on. Dad's 1973 Ford F-100 Ranger XLT pickup had a 360 V8 and a clutch that would give you a left leg that Jack LaLane would be proud of.

Len

idahodoug

Phil,

Thanks. I noted in my log "Drain/refill 4qts Dex III" but I cannot find anywhere that I'd have known it was 4 quarts. I know I did not measure the output, so I must have known it was 4 quarts. Today, however, it seemed to be below the fill mark with 4 quarts. The dipstick really clouds the issue and I am not confident it's at the correct level. I put an entire 5th quart in without getting a solid full reading. Kind of a pisser, but I'll check it cold in the morning, I guess. Not that I expect the dipstick to be any more helpful, but perhaps the dipstick tube will be dry and I'll get a single chance at a good reading, eh? Anyone else with a number or a source??

IdahoDoug

spickynitz

Thanks to liz116 ateixeira 03xngreen and ateixeira for your replies. We haven't replaced the ECU because of the expense, though we have had the knock and oxygen sensors replaced. Our situation is more severe than liz116's; when it happens we have no control of the power - it's like the gas pedal is not connected and though the engine is suddenly racing, whatever you do with the pedal has no effect. All my wife can do is pull over and turn it off. The service manager did say that their ECU algorithym when this happens is to give you no control until you are under 30mph. Below 30mph I guess then the engine does start responding to the gas pedal, but my wife hasn't mentioned that - she's just so scared she's happy to make it to the side alive. Thanks for your replies. I guess we'll price a new ECU and consider taking the gamble.

crashton6

When I drained & filled the 4eat on my forester I got 4 quarts out. I measured what came out. If you want a good reading on the fluid level drive until you get some heat in the tranny. Then with the engine running cycle through all the gears then back into park. Check with the engine running. If you check it cold it's going to read low. The dipstick is a pain, but it's all we've got.=)

Crashton

ffsteve

Since we're still on this subject, I have to admit learning to drive a small ford van in Hong Kong. With a column shift, 4 speeds, and right hand drive, I had to learn to stay on the left side of the road, shift with my left hand, and avoid all those other drivers who wanted to be in the same piece of road. There were a few interesting moments.
Steve

hypov

idahodoug Aug 8, 2003 9:33pm

[Revised]

Doug-
Here's info I got many many moons ago.
It's on the 2.5l AT though. but I think it'll give you some proximity.

The automatic transmission pan holds about 4.5 quarts of fluid if only the pan is emptied, that is how much it would have taken. If the torque converter (which holds some of this fluid) was flushed, that would account for about 4 to 5 quarts, too. The rest of the fluid is in the nook-and-cranny of the transmission. If it is overfilled by just ½ quart, there shouldn't be a problem.

-Dave

edit: Oh, that's when I had my '98 Outback
... still missing him.

idahodoug

This morning, I checked it using the cold method and it appeared to be above the cold H by about half the distance between the L and H marks. Since traditionallly, these marks are about a quart apart (dipstick lore), I figure I'm about a half quart high. Since I put 5 quarts in this time, I think Hypov's accurate that 4.5 would have been correct. I also agree that .5 quart overfill is OK, since on an 8.3 qt system that's around 6% overfilled. So, I've got a bit more in there and with last year's drain/fill I've replaced around 50% of the additive package with fresh.

Now. Anyone know if the 2.2 auto tranny has an external filter? I could not find it with just a casual examination.

IdahoDoug

sebberry

you may be able to help me with this one.

On my H6, I was thinking of replacing the stock filter with a K&N filter.

How much of a difference do you think it would make?

I have heard that low end torque can decrease while upper end increases. Is this true? what other ways can I increase low-end torque?

Thank's

c_hunter

Anybody have a guess at the proper torque for the manual trans drain plug on my WRX? I switched to Mobil-1 gear oil today. Couldn't find a new copper crush washer, so I re-used the old one and snugged the bolt up to what felt right to me. According to my torque wrench, it was about 60 ft-lb.

Only 3000 miles on the car, so the old gear oil was very clean. Still had some gray goop on the plug magnet, however, and a few small iron filings. Always find this wierd, even though it's apparently normal! Will have to see how the shifting feels now with syn oil.

I also put M1 in the engine (10W-30).

Craig

idahodoug

60 might be a little tight on an aluminum component, but I wouldn't worry about it - correct torque will likely be around 45 (total guess) and you're close. Ditto the copper washer - I suspect it's not actually a crush style, but a solid copper washer, right? If so, it can be reused many times.

That's a good sign there was just a small "beard" and some grey sludge. Next time there will be just sludge, I'll wager. Bet that feels good, eh?

IdahoDoug

njswamplands

my problem is it goes to fast, can i slow it down somehow? really no complaints, car rocks.

dcm61

Doug,

Subaru didn't start using the external spin-on tranny filter on the Legacy / Outback until 1999 (last year of Gen 2). I know it's on the '99 2.5L, not sure if they put in on the '99 2.2L models. I think the Forester started the same year. The filter is located on the driver's side toward the front of the tranny on H4 models. It is located behind the left foglight on H6 models. Per Subaru, this is not a normal maintenance item and no change is required.

I believe at some point the SVX also used a spin on filter.

FYI - I drained the A/T on my '96 OBW 2.5L three times and measured what I drained. It was always approx. 5 qts. Of course, YMMV.

DaveM

jfl

FWIW, 2000 OB & Legacy manual tranny drain plug torque is 32.5+/-2.2 ft-lb.

Doug is correct that the washer is flat, not "crush" type.

Jim

joybell

..easing your foot off the gas pedal a little would help.

c_hunter

Yep, it was a copper one, so I guess I'm OK to re-use. Not really a crush washer (like on the oil filter).

Funny thing about the torque, I gently snugged the plug with my socket wrench, and then gave it another 1/8 turn with the torque wrench (longer handle, easier to turn). Just goes to show how easy it can be to over-torque!

Craig

hypov

njswamplands-
Wanna trade engines?
I've got a 2.0l turbo which will certainly suit you for your 2.5l turbo. :-)

-Dave

kcreature

My 2000 Forester makes an interesting chugging/clicking noise when I start it up. It usually goes away after about 5 minutes, however, it has lasted up to 15 minutes. It doesn't seem to matter if the engine has warmed up or not. I really can't describe the noise, except that with a little imagination it might sound like a diesel engine. I told one dealer about it a while back, and they "couldn't reproduce the problem". I drive by another independent service station every day, but the noise is gone by the time I get there. I haven't been too worried by it because it doesn't seem to have any effect on the way the car drives. Does anyone have any idea what this might be?

Also, I just got new brakes and they squeak horribly (didn't get them from a dealer). The same dealer that couldn't figure out my other problem said that the brakes just do that. If I take it to a (different) dealer now, will they put the kit on for me?

Ugh! I love my Forester, but seem to be worrying about it more than enjoying it these days.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

paisan

The 2.2L engines have an internal filter. I have one sitting here waiting to go into the L. I just have to figure out if there is a pan-gasket I need to replace on it or not.

About ~4quarts is correct in the pan. I'll find out for sure early this week when I do the L before I hit Summit Point for 2 days of racin.

-mike

forestergump

I have an organically aspirated 2.5 ltr. (1999 Forester S) engine that works perfectly and in accordance with your requirements. Let's trade...