Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Mike- I can't imagine why the 3/36 warranty wouldn't cover it. That's why it's called a bumper-to-bumper warranty.

    -Frank P.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Well, coming back from a New Year's party, the radio would not work when I started the car. This morning, it started working again. I had no tunes for an hour and a half drive. NO TUNES MAN!...lol

    This 2.5 XT is full of gremlins..:(
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    How's your singing voice, Sam?
  • vetmatsvetmats Member Posts: 71
    Did the radio turn on, but no sound?
    Or did the radio not even turn on?

    If the radio didn't turn on at all, you've got a loose connection in your Battery or Ignition connection to your radio.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Took a look at my battery in the Outback yesterday. There's a nice white lump o' crud on one terminal and a smaller lump o' crud on the battery bracket. So, today I'm going to clean it up (where's that cola?) and check the water levels as well.

    Is filtered water (we have a Pur filter pitcher) the right thing to use? It's been sitting in a pitcher since yesterday.

    -Brian
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    You should use distilled water (no minerals). Filtered water will still have those minerals that are good for you but not the battery.

    DaveM
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    On my way back from the slopes yesterday I was enjoying the sweet sounds of the H4. :)

    Greg
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    The radio did not turn on at all. The next time I started the car, it turned on. It's something with the electronics (maybe internal surge supressor circuit?) I'm sure I will never be able to replicate this for the dealer...
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Distilled it is then. Had to stop at the store anyway, so I picked some up.

    Removed the battery clamp and soaked it in some Pepsi. Wiped up the top surface of the battery, popped the vent caps off, and topped off the 6 chambers with about 1/4 gallon total. I took the level to just about the tip of the plastic extension from each chamber hole.

    -Brian
  • crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    DaveM,

    Keep an eye on the water level of your battery. When it gets low your battery may start charging more than normal. That can lead to lots of acid deposits. When I clean mine I use warm tap water & baking soda. That stuff bubbles the acid right off. Then drink a Pepsi. As has been said for filling the battery distilled is the way to go.

    Chuck
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You fed it Pepsi? Did it burp? ;-)

    -juice
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    but I think you actually meant to address your post to Brian. :-)

    DaveM
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Thanks Dave, I think he meant me too!

    This is the first time I've filled the battery in my '00 Outback (3.5 years old now). I remember wiping things down back in October and didn't notice the 'chunk o' crud' on the bracket and (-) terminal. I'll be keeping an eye on it now as it's clean again.

    Actually, I expected to fill it with more water than I did. *shrug*

    -Brian
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    blanked out on me once for about 10 mins ('03 XS). It just refused to respond to any controls. Truly a gremlin.

    John
  • sebberrysebberry Member Posts: 148
    Where I live, it started to snow about 2 hours ago, and it is starting to stick to the road.

    I thought it would be a good oppertunity to check the cars performance again in the snow.

    Taking a corner very slowly, the back end slid out violently, thankfully the oncomming car was far enough over to avoid incident, and it took a series of corrections to bring her back under control.

    I love the car, but I am appauled that Subaru would install skiis on a car built for snowy climates. I know there is a winder traction trade-off when using all-seasons, but these are just a joke. I would go as far as to label the car dangerous in this weather.

    The tires are correctly inflated (Checked 2 days ago) and have only 28,000 Kilometers on them.

    I will be writing a letter to Subaru Canada customer service requesting that they replace, or contribute to the replacement cost of a decent set of tires.

    I was really looking forward to the '05 once it arrives, but I'd might as well be riding a sled to work.

    Sorry for sounding like a jerk, bt I bought the car because I wanted a safe car to drive to work in ini these conditions. Now I am not sure if I want to drive to work tomorrow.
  • ppekppek Member Posts: 58
    sebberry,

    What year is your Subaru? How many miles do you have on your tires? I would highly recommend installing snow tires in your climate, you will be amazed with the traction you get with them coupled with the AWD. I live in West Michigan, and have them installed on my WRX. All season tires are okay in all climates, but don't excel in winter.

    Take care,

    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    John: must be a loose harness or something. It's not hard to access, FWIW.

    Sebastian: those tires are OK when new, but when worn, well, they earn their nickname: Blowtenzas.

    -juice
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Replaced the wife's Potenzas and my Geolanders with cheap ($52 Forester - $57 Outback) Winterforce tires. I'm sure they're probably not in the Michelin league but both autos are immeasurably better in the snow. - I've now gone over 1400 miles on my Forester with these tires.

    HTH

    Larry
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    The Winterforce tire is studdable, which is why I'm considering it. Did you get yours with studs?
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Are there still restrictions on the usage of these tires? I know years ago local jurisdictions were quite upset with these tires because they would tear up the highway. Is that still the case?

    Bob
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    I think you might be expecting too much. At 28,000 KM, you have driven your tires about 17,000 miles. They probably have at most half of their original tread remaining. While that's adequate for dry-pavement driving and probably also OK for minor amounts of rain, I would never expect a halfway-worn-down general-purpose all-season tire to perform well on snow or ice.

    I very much doubt Subaru will do what you are asking. Drivers in Canada should be prepared to own a second set of tires designed for and dedicated exclusively to snow conditions.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Depends on the locality. Studs are still legal in many areas. They are indeed hard on roads, which is why I always put mine on separate wheels and mount them only when the weather makes them absolutely necessary. Then I remove them as soon as the conditions improve. I sometimes do this two or three times in a single winter, and probably only average a thousand miles or less per season.
  • vetmatsvetmats Member Posts: 71
    I have the "blowtenzas" on my new outback. How long can I expect them to have decent traction? 5K, 10K?
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Any tire driven in snow will do its best only when it's relatively new, while it still has deep tread and (especially) sharp-edged tread blocks. As the tire wears, these positive factors diminish. I personally would not want to rely on any general-purpose all-season tire to get me through snow beyond its first 5K to 10K miles. After that, I'd recommend buying "real" snow tires and mounting them only when necessary. Used thus, they'll last for many years, probably longer than you'll own the car.
  • sebberrysebberry Member Posts: 148
    There appears to be a fair amount of tread left, and traction in the rain is still pretty good.

    Where I live, we get snow maybe 2 or 3 days of the year (Canada isn't that frigid and snow covered). When it comes, we wake up to it and have no time or ability to change the wheels (I'm not going to do that in my garage before going to work).

    I am simply saying that Subaru should equip a $40,000 car with better tires. There were too many front wheel drive cars pasisng me on the highway today.

    Does anyone have any experience with the BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires? They seem like they have pretty impressive specs for all season driving. Any other suggestions?

    Many thanks
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    a good selection of winter tires that can handle 'dry' time. They won't be as good as studded tires, but they're better than any all season tire.

    Spend a few hundred $$$ on some winter/snow tires and mount them at the beginning of your winter season. http://tirerack.com has some of these, I'm sure you have some local tire places that have 'em too.

    -Brian
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Driving in the white stuff on public roads is not a race. You drive at the capabilities of your equipment & your experience / skill level based on the road conditions with respect to available traction (which can vary by the inch traveled). Always seek the best traction.

    Running a quality all-season tire in limited days of snow / ice can be a good compromise. I ran 2 sets of BGF KDWS's "all-season" (W speed rated to 168 mph) on my Gen III SHO which performed quite well in snow & ice conditions but I've also been fine running bias plies & performance radials in RWD vehicles in the 60's & early 70's, etc. without a problem. I mounted Bstone Dueller Revo A/T's on my Trooper which are great in the snow but they don't offer the added performance benefits of a dedicated snow tire. Running narrower tires offers less rolling resistance & more lbs per square inch of tire loading but there are obvious trade-offs. Also, some tire compounds get quite hard after a couple of years from UV & / or heat cycles regardless of mileage or tread depth - but they would tend to be slick on any surface.

    Getting new tires will help but it all boils down to knowing & improving your limitations while maximizing the capabilities of your equipment in any given situation. Driving within those capabilities are paramount not based on how other drivers / vehicles are performing at the time. Drive smart & always plan ahead with timing - including speed differential for obstacles :).

    To me, with tires at 17k + maybe a year or 2 of being in-service, this isn't Subaru's problem.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Jack - I'm driving w/o the studs - MA has too many restrictions on them.

    Despite that, I was thinking of selling this set and getting studded tires if I still felt the need for them, but unless I run into some weather I haven't seen yet with these tires (and that would be scary) I'm happy the way they are.

    Larry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OE tires are usually a compromise. Several upgrades are available for a cheap investment.

    Oddly, I can't wait until my wife's tires are worn. She has 18k miles and they're actually still OK. We usually take the Forester when it's snowing.

    -juice
  • bricknordbricknord Member Posts: 85
    I would like some feedback from those of you familiar with Subarus, specifically 2.5RS of current style. I've owned quite a few cars, and none has disappointed me with the "feel" of the steering like my 04 2.5RS does. The on-center feel seems quite vague to me, and then on the other hand the just-off-center response is so touchy that it is annoying. At highway speeds, seems like the car is always going slightly left or right, and if you correct a small amount to counter, you end up going slightly the other way. I've never encountered a car that felt almost impossible to drive straight without constant tiny corrections to the wheel. A windy day exacerbates this issue. There seems to be no self-centering tendency at all, in fact quite the opposite.
    To clarify, the car is new ( 3k miles ), has not been in an accident or even hit a major hole for that matter. Bone stock. Does not pull right or left continuously as in needing an alignment or due to the crown of the road. Issue is weak on center feel combined with constant slight wander left or right if you move the wheel even slightly. Hard to describe but annoying and requiring constant attention to drive in a straight line at normal speeds. Windy days, feel like a drunk driver.
    Anyone have similar experience or insight, would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks in advance!
    Matt
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Without knowing for certain, I'd guess that my '04 Forester XT has the same steering as your Impreza, because they share platforms and nearly all major mechanical components. I think the amount of power assist on mine is much more than necessary, and this certainly diminishes the amount of road feedback delivered to the steering wheel. I'd far rather have a lot less assist and a lot more road feel.

    That said, I notice none of the twitchiness or instability that you've described. On a freeway straightaway, I can hold my steering wheel motionless in the dead-ahead position and the car will maintain its direction straight down the road for long distances before any slight corrections are required. I very much like this good directional stability; I dislike cars that require constant small back-and-forth corrections to maintain their heading.

    The steering ratio on Foresters and Imprezas might possibly be "quicker" than what you're accustomed to. The combination of a quick ratio (small number of turns lock-to-lock) plus the relatively small turning circle means that small changes in steering wheel position translate to large changes in vehicle direction.

    It's possible that your Impreza's wheel alignment isn't correct, even though it's nearly new and hasn't hit any chuckholes. I'd suggest having the dealer check it.

    jb
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    I think I have been hit with the head gasket demon. I was doing my o/f change yesterday and I always check the underside of the engine while I'm down there . Well I noticed some weeping liquid coming from the driverside head gasket .Around the # 4 cylinder .It is mostly on the back side and bottom of the block by the firewall. It is a very little amount not enough to run down the block and drip on the ground . I can't tell what it is because it is black in color and feels gritty probable from picking up road dirt and sand from the beaches here . It almost looks like when you drop some oil while filling up you car and you don't clean it up ,it attracts the dirt and grime from the road . I then checked all the other areas and found no other weeping. I don't have to add any oil between changes . I am not losing any coolant and I don't have any overheating problems .I have checked the coolant tank after driving it appears normal . Is this normal for them to weep alittle or is it the start of head gasket problems . I have a 02 outback 2.5l 4eat with 37k miles on it .

    Mike k
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    My 01 OB H4 had the head gasket problem. From day one I was very slowly losing coolant. Then I started smelling burnt coolant. Since it has been fixed (20k miles ago) the coolant level has not changed. I would recommend you have your dealer take a look at it, if for nothing else but to have it documented. Make sure you get a receipt.

    BTW - you are describing the location that has been the problem. Always cylinder #4. The coolant leaks to the outside and not to the cylinder. Oil is not affected.

    Greg
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    It doesn't appear that Mike's head gasket has actually blown yet. Is it possible in these situations that re-torquing the head bolts might prevent or at least postpone the more serious problem?
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    I don't have any burning smell. The coolant has not dropped in the overflow tank .I will call the dealer today and make an appointmant to have them look at it .

    thanks
    Mike k
  • 03xngreen03xngreen Member Posts: 36
    Patti,
    Months ago when you were not available, there was an informal census regarding Subaru owners on this board with blown head gaskets. The end result was that this problem was not altogether rare--common knowledge in some circles, actually. Do you have any information that you could share regarding this issue? Is Subaru aware of it? Is it a design flaw? Is it as widespread as it seems? Is it preventable? Thanks for any information you have regarding this potentially serious problem.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Patti cannot share information about specific cases, for confidentiality, so I'm not sure if she can answer that.

    From what I've seen, it's mostly older 97-99 models with the Phase I engine. Mileage tends to be around 70-80k.

    Some folks here were able to get help, so call 800-SUBARU3 if it happens to yours and work with them to get a resolution.

    -juice
  • 03xngreen03xngreen Member Posts: 36
    You know, if I were Oliver Stone, I might be thinking of doing a movie about Subaru head gaskets.

    Way back when, a number of folks on this board, a total of twelve, responded saying they had had blown head gaskets. Others made comments that dealers told them it was a common problem. In fact, one person said the dealer was completely out of them due to having to replace so many. Another Subaru board on the Internet also had similar comments posted to it.

    Juice, I don’t know what you base your “97-99 models with the Phase I engine. Mileage tends to be around 70-80k” statement on, but most of the respondents on this board were later models with much lower mileage. Message 785 was a 2001 with 27K, for example. Even the two just mentioned a couple of messages back are ’01 and '02.

    Also, I’m not asking for information on “specific cases”. My questions were very general.

    If there’s an issue with Subaru head gaskets, I would like to know. Is there anything we can do to monitor or prevent it? Or maybe Subaru needs to issue a service bulletin. If they haven’t heard of anything, why not? Everyone else on the planet seems to know about it.

    Like other folks, I’ve plunked down hard earned to own a Subaru, and although yes, it is still under warranty, and yes, it’s great there’s an 800-SUBARU3 phone number to call, and it really IS wonderful that Patti monitors this board, I sure as heck don’t want to have my car towed to a dealer and go through the hassle of getting head gaskets replaced, or even worse, a new engine due to a warped head. I bought the car to drive, hopefully for a long time, without any problems.

    When Patti was absent, a few of us noted that we’d like to hear if she had any input. Your response, Juice, way back on message 798 was “Yep, she’s looking into it. As soon as I hear I’ll share.” Still waiting, but like Oliver, I’m now beginning to wonder if we’ll ever really know.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Keep in mind Patti's been through a couple of very serious health issues since then, pretty major, too.

    -juice
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    Well, I can say "stay tuned" for information in the very near future. We've been studying the issue and are aware of what is going on. Please know that I will share more the very moment I'm given the go ahead.

    Juice was explaining that with this being "unchartered" territory, I have to tread carefully on what I can share prior to getting permission. That being said, I had seen issues here on the board and I've been in the loop at SOA on what is being done. We do our best to be proactive, but sometimes it takes a bit longer than what we'd all like.

    Thanks for your patience. If you are having a problem now, I strongly encourage you to get it to a dealer and call us at 1-800-SUBARU3 if you need help.

    Patti
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I love conspiracy theories, so please don't stop, however...

    <chuckle>

    You gotta keep in mind that some people *cough* my wife *cough* have an extended warranty and expect to get some sort of benefit for it if an issue comes up. So it might not be fair if they cover everyone's issues, why should we pay for the Subaru Gold warranty, then?

    I think if they find a design flaw and issue a recall or (more likely) a TSB for some models, that's different. The key is if they can find some sort of pattern, perhaps a certain batch of gaskets, maybe?

    I bet they're looking into that now and just haven't come out with an official position yet.

    -juice
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    And, not that this affects me, but I still wonder how many of these blown-head-gasket problems might have been caused, at least in part, by improperly torqued cylinder head bolts, or by bolts that creeped slightly looser than spec by thousands of heat-up, cool-down evolutions? The gaskets under a properly-torqued head should not blow in normal operation. Ever. Period. The principal cause of blown head gaskets on a properly-torqued head is letting the coolant go low, overheating the engine, and warping a head. Absent that, no head gasket on a correctly-torqued head should ever blow.

    Ergo, if on a particular car there is early evidence of any leakage past the gasket at all, the first thing I'd want would be to have the head bolts re-torqued. That early intervention just might prevent the larger problem later.
  • bpoertnerbpoertner Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to see if anyone has any insight into this one. I have a 99 Subaru Forester with an Automatic transmision and nearly 100K on it. During the summer I leave the vehicle parked out in the sun all day then I get in to go home after work. It starts up fine and seems to settle to a normal idle. I then shift into drive and start rolling out of my spot but as soon as I give it some throttle, the engine almost stalls out. After a second or two, it seems to work itself out and it will then accelerate normally and will behave without any trouble after that. It has never actually stalled and this problem usually doesn't happen in the mornings. Now that's its winter here in Virginia the problem has gone away but it has consistently done this the last two summers. Over the summer I had changed the spark plugs and fuel filter with no effect on this. I heard a story on CarTalk not too long ago about Hondas that when the cabin temp was hot a fuel pump relay under the dash wouldn't work properly and that kept the car from starting. Could something like this be happening in a Forester or any other ideas? I appreciate any comments...
  • 03xngreen03xngreen Member Posts: 36
    Ok, so until we hear anything more, what can an owner do in the meantime to try and monitor or prevent head gasket problems? Apparently, just checking the coolant level isn't conclusive.

    Message 2383 was the closest description I've heard yet of an actual observation, but I'm not sure if I can see the same location on my Forester because the plastic covering hides much of the engine. And all right, I'm not entirely sure if I'm looking at the right spot.

    Any suggestions for an easy method of detection, or maybe a layman's explanation of how to look? Would it be a good idea for folks getting an oil change to have their service person check? Or, if there is a leak noticed, is it already too late?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    At each oil change, visually inspect the block itself. If a gasket leaks, you'll see black oil stains on the bottom of the block. If the front main seal leaks, oil stains will be on the front of the block near the radiator.

    Next time you visit an auto show, see if they have a boxer engine cut out. You can see the parts we're discussing more closely.

    -juice
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Blown head gaskets can be caused from overheating resulting from low coolant levels, but there are a myriad of other issues which could effect the same result or in combination thereof (excessive heat & pressue), e.g. pre-ignition causing hot spots & additional stress, detonation, head gasket composition & coating issues especially if the block & head are of different materials (alum. alloy / cast iron), faulty EGR system, wrong fuel grade also causing detonation, vacuum leaks causing too lean fuel ratio, carbon deposits increasing compression ratio, boost pressure, etc. Also, some head bolts / studs were never designed to be re-torqued / used & they must be replaced. Failures can occur through bad melts in ferrous & non ferrous metals but they can be independenly lab verified as to whether they are out of spec as to their chemical & physical properties, temper issues, & their heat lots identified. This usually involves stress fractures & breakage - some are simply over torqued out of spec. All bolts / studs elongate / stretch when torqued as in a tensile test, but some are not designed to recover - 1 time only.
    Having a well maintained cooling system goes a long way to help reduce engine heat stress. In addition, head gasket leaks may not be visible externally & can leak across cylinders internally. It's amazing what a little steam can do.
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    Wow I really started a run of messages on here . I was able to stop by my dealer today on my way home from work to have them look at my heads (lol).Well the mechanic and I are becoming quite friendly these past couple of months . I was able to finally have them change my timing belt tensioner last month .
     Any way back to my heads . The mechanic put the car on the lift and I showed him were i saw the leak . ON my car you can see better from the top of the engine .Mine were leaking from the back and bottom of the block around the # 4 cylinder. When I showed him it said ohh well whats another one when I do about 2 a week .He said that I caught mine early because the gasket didn't fail around the coolant jacket . Mine was only leaking oil. He is going to call SOA and see if he can autherize to have both of my heads done , since he has to pull the engine anyway.He said that there seems to be a problem with the late 01 model builds and the early 02 model builds . Mine 02 outback was built in 6/01.I'm dropping the car off next Monday and he said it will only take 1 day which seems kinda short to me .
     
    How long did it take to have your head gaskets done . For the people on here that have had this problem .
    Thanks
    Mike k
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    Could this be vapor lock? (Evaporation of fuel in the fuel line. Once the vapor passes, cool fuel from the tank allows everything to run normally.)

    Next summer, check if you can rev it in "park" and if it stumbles then or after you shift into drive. Another thought is what juice often suggests. Switch the key "on" to start the fuel pump but don't start the engine for a few seconds until the pump has built up some pressure.

    Jim
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    It's good you caught it in time. Has the cause of the failure(s) been determined?
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Yikes. That'll teach me not to yap when far more knowledgeable people are about. Thanks for the multiple corrections. I'll go lick my lacerations now.
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