Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

1…218219221223224…385

Comments

  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    I have a Craftsman 6 HP 30 gallon upright model and a Craftsman 2 HP 4 gallon pancake-style. I also have a portable 5 gallon air tank that I keep filled for those times when I need to top up a tire by a couple PSI, and don't feel like turning on the compressors.

    Len
  • jlemolejlemole Member Posts: 345
    Local gas station and a can of Fix-A-Flat in the hatch.

    Jon
  • jlemolejlemole Member Posts: 345
    I can just barely change the oil on my Outback without raising it. A Legacy must be a real tight squeeze!

    BTW, my Quest also uses a crush washer, so I don't think it's limited to Subies.

    Jon
  • andmoonandmoon Member Posts: 320
    What happens if a copper washer is used in place of a crush washer?
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    If it's solid copper, I would expect leaks. Some people have successfully substituted a re-useable fiber washer intstead of the crush washer.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My jack came with a cheap plug-in compressor, but yeah, it's noisy and very slow. I've only used it once, when my wife got a flat.

    I usually go down the street, about a mile away they have one of those where you dial in the pressure and believe it or not, it's actually accurate.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The idiot light for oil would have reported the loose drain plug, FWIW.

    I have ramps and they just give me more space to work during an oil change. I could probably manage without them, but why?

    The ramps are usually out anyway, for my Miata, which absolutely needs them.

    -juice
  • ken_from_njken_from_nj Member Posts: 105
    i've changed mine myself 3 times now (03 forester xs) once at 3500, again around 7500 and again around 14500 so far. mobil 1 5w/30 every time. easy to do - i personally use ramps. want to get fumoto valve but too lazy to buy it so far (or too cheap - can't decide which) need to do the 15k tire rotation but this weather isn't helping not to mention only have the standard jack & don't have another one unless i want to borrow one from my bro.
  • andmoonandmoon Member Posts: 320
    Does ramping affect draining? Flat=full drain?
    Don
  • ken_from_njken_from_nj Member Posts: 105
    not enough that i'm concerned about it. one way to get past that is to ramp downhill, i.e. point the nose of the car down the slight incline - & drive up the ramps that way - so that way when the car is on the ramps - it is actually sorta level (depending on the incline of course) that works in my drive. as for the .2 (one fifth) of a qt. most oil containers have that 'see thru' clear part where you can gauge it ok enough imo. don't think the tolerances are SOOO tight that if you have 4.5 or 4.0 quarts in the car that it will matter too much but with an approx 4.25 (or 1 quarter of that 5th quart) i feel comfortable. to each his own.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    .2qt * 32oz = 6.4oz so think of it as a cup. I just pour 6 oz. in the filter (plastic measuring cup) - more control than the bottles of oil, esp if you're using a 5qt jug of oil. The filter should hold the 6oz without any trouble.

    Lot's of different opinions re: filter priming. I've done it on every car I've owned where the filter was vertical and easy to get to. Comes down to how much damage you think will occur in those first few seconds of dry operation after a change. It's just so darn easy to do in this car, with its easy to reach vertical filter, I can't think of any reason not to.

    As a cheap test, do a change w/o priming the filter and count the time until the oil idiot light goes out. The next time try priming the filter and repeating. On my 03 Forester there was a 6sec to 1sec difference. Of course, the great caveat - YMMV.

    Larry
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    I have a "mini-max" compressor that I keep with me. The nearby gas station I used to go to burned down, so it's easier to use the compressor.

    Mark
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    Patti:

    I've been offline for a few days, so just getting around to responding to a few things.

    Thanks for all you did on the head gasket thing.

    My initial reservations were that, when it was explained to me, the service manager didn't tell me that this was an official Subaru thing and that I would get a letter officially extending the warranty. It sounded like it was a deal that he and the district rep were offering just to me and in just this one instance. Even though I got it in writing on the receipt, I was a little concerned that if there were a problem down the road no other Subaru dealership would honor it or, even, that this dealership would renege on the basis of "it's not in our records" and/or "he didn't have the authority" and/or "he hasn't worked here in X years and we don't honor anything he promised anymore."

    If it is an official Subaru of America policy/program, I am confident that is unlikely to happen. I am willing to give it a try.

    --K9Leader
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    I have recently replaced my headlights twice. The first time was at the end of December, then while on the 48hrs trip the other light went. I replaced them both approximately 2 weeks ago with the blue bulb (sorry , can't remember what it is called) and now one of them is out again. Any ideas on what I should look for, to see if anything could be causing this to happen so frequently?

    Thanks ,
    Mark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Could be the bulb itself. A lot of those bulbs don't have long life expectancy. I had 4 Hella H4+30 "Xenons" and none lasted more than a year.

    I put the stock bulbs back and they have lasted about 5 years and counting.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's exactly what I do, have the car face down and then the ramps put it back to level so all the oil drains out.

    I do prime the oil filters, too.

    -juice
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    Could be moisture in the lens unit, or oil from fingers (maybe not yours) on the bulb.

    I found the Silver Star bulbs don't last more than a year.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Make sure you do not touch them with your skin, that will definitely cause a problem.

    Craig
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Anybody know how to adjust the parking brake on an 02 Outback? Mine barely works. Is there an adjustment under the console??

    Craig
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    conclusion to me... but I was still hoping you would get a new timing belt out of the deal.

    Keep us posted.

    John
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    While I don't see any possible downside from doing this, I think it's a misnomer to refer to a "dry" start for a few seconds if one doesn't prime the filter. No matter how long you let your crankcase drain, residual oil will remain between every bearing mating surface and between every point of contact in the valvegear, etc. When you start the engine after refilling, there won't be any dry metal-to-metal contact anywhere. If you started the engine with full-load wide-open throttle, then maybe the residual oil might be inadequate to lubricate until the oil pump filled the filter and built pressure. However, nobody does that. The engine starts with closed throttle and runs at no-load idle immediately after the oilchange. During the few seconds (if that) that it takes to for the pump to fill the filter and reach full operating pressure, the residual oil is (IMO) more than sufficient to safely lubricate all friction points.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    is it really a problem? There was a post some time back regarding how much extra room there was between the oil pan and anything critical (at least 1", IIRC). The owner simply puts 5 qts in at every change and runs it a bit over the top.

    I wish we could get some hard data on a problem related to an engine overfill of only 0.7 qts.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd heard it takes 7 seconds for the oil pump to establish proper oil pressure on a modern engine, so really we're all running without proper oil flow for at least those 7 seconds, every day.

    I'm sure it would be fine, but why not prime it? If the filter is facing down, it's can't cause any harm.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    i tend to agree with you. But also, note that many studies show that the bulk of engine wear happens at start up. When considering how few the oil change startups are (say, 50 maximum in the life of a vehicle) compared to the thousands of regular starts, of what consequence is the priming to the life of an engine?

    John
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I asked this question of SOA over a year ago. The response I got was 4.2 +/- 1 quart. I could see going with 4, even 4.5, but I'd not overfill anything by >20% w/o a good reason. and I'd never under fill on an oil change.

    BTW - The above is for the NA 2.5L, not the turbo which takes 5qts.

    Larry
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    As I indicated at the start of that note, I can't think of any argument against priming the filter. Ergo, I'm not saying there is any <adverse> consequence to doing so. I just don't think it will make much difference, either way. That the bulk of engine wear happens at startup is much more likely attributable to the fact that the oil is cold and doesn't lubricate as well then, as to any momentary shortage of oil in critical places.

    As for Juice's comment that it might take 7 seconds after startup for modern engines to reach full oil pressure, the relevant question is, how much longer than that does it take for an engine with empty oil filter to reach full pressure? An extra second? Two? And how much, if any, difference would that make on longevity, given that there is residual oil left behind to lubricate parts under no-load, idle-speed startups.
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    I've noticed some chatter about these and it sounds like people are replacing them at EACH oil change??? I torque mine (32.5 +- 2.5 lb/ft IIRC) and have never had an old one go bad. Oldest car is a 97 with 118k miles. It still has the one that came from the factory. No leaks. We have 5 scoobies that I take care of in our extended family, and I have yet to by a new crush washer for any of them. I had to once for a Justy, but only 'cuz some quickie oil change place replaced the original w/ a plastic one that leaked!
    Anyone else torque their drain plugs?

    Dave
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Looks like there's an adjustment bolt accessible right through the brake handle opening in the console, don't even need to take the console out. Appears it will require a deep socket to adjust.

    Craig
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Is it just me who is highly skeptical about whether quick change oil places ever replace the crush washers?

    -Frank P.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Craig there is an adjustment in the rear brake parking drum and that is where you should adjust, not at the parking brake lever. Unless of course the handbrake is going all the way to the top without actuating the parking brake.

      In that case there would be too much slack in the cable,and then an adjustment there would be in order.

      Cheers Pat.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    How long did you go until the first pair burned out? A few years is probably average.

    The first thing I would suspect are fingerprints on the blub. Otherwise, it could be the quality of the blue bulb themselves. Do you remember the brand? Some of those HID-look bulbs are of questionable quality.

    I use Philips Vision Plus bulbs on my Forester. They're brighter than the Hellas juice mentioned and they've lasted me a few years now. I just replaced one after about two years of use. The other one is still okay after three years.

    Ken
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    If / when I take mine to a quickie shop, I'll have a spare crush washer or two on hand, just to make sure.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I agree that an oil change done on a warm engine should have sufficient residual oil film to protect it. But if you listen carefully, there is a very different sound to the engine in the first few seconds after an oil change. Kind of empty & hollow, and it changes abruptly as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. Could be the oil pump running without resistance (back pressure), or maybe it really is some metal-to-metal contact on some surfaces. Still, I wouldn't loose any sleep over it...

    Steve
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    about the noise, and back in my more anal days (some would ask when did they end) I considered buying an electric oil pump accessory to pre-pressurize the engine oil.

    The chatter is definitely there, but I have never had an engine wear out on me either.

    John
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Craig/Greg - LOL. Yep, I knew that I would take some flak when I posted that. Monster Garage, here I come!

    It was one of those special treat that I did for myself. I used to use one of those 5 gal portable tanks in conjunction with the compressor, then saw the reel at a flea market tool dealer. Not the best, but fine for my occasional use. I recently bought an electric reel, but have yet to hang it with the cold weather.

    Yes - 8 corners (two cars), and 6 bicycle tires sitting between the two cars.... and out on to the driveway for the lawn tractor, etc.

    Steve
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Without full oil pressure, the oil film between rubbing/contacting points will be thinner than with, and the resultant additional clearances would account for the brief additional clatter. But I'd still maintain that there's sufficient film to protect the parts against harm unless one foolishly gunned the engine really hard instantly after startup.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    The Turanza LS gets the best customer ratings in its class on the Tirerack website. Check it out.
    I am getting the LS T for a minivan, when I was calling around for prices, every shop said it was a great tire, (esp for a minivan anyway!)
    Its OEM on the BMW 745 with standard wheels!
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    Steve,

    I've got to get one of those reels. I have 75' of hose looped over the handle on my compressor. I do have the ceiling mounted electric (3 outlet) reel in the garage. That works great.

    Len
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Pat: yep, it's slack in the cable. The handle runs out of headroom before the brakes snug up. Didn't realize it until I parked on a hill the other day.

    Steve: I put in an overhead 30ft power-cord reel right before Christmas, and it's awesome. I have a worklight on the end of it most of the time. which is great for working on cars.

    I guess I have to confess my compressor stats: portable 6HP 33 gal model, used primarily for blowing out my sprinklers (for winterization). I also use it for to run an air ratchet, impact wrench, and a couple different nail guns. Nice to have around.

    Craig
  • outback165outback165 Member Posts: 108
    In December I had to have my handbrake adjusted on my 01 OB with 67K. I hung out with the tech while he adjusted it and he told me if I ever did it myself to be sure to allow for 6 clicks because otherwise it would be too tight. The other thing I learned a long time ago was to shift into neutral, set the handbrake until the car will not roll, then shift into Park (or "gear" for manual).

    Thanks all for the posts on headlights - while the OE bulbs are still working, I've been considering swapping to bright whites....

    Hope everyone in the New York tri-state survived this latest round of snow ok. I remember the days in Florida when I dreamed of driving my OB in the snow. Now I dream of Florida. Oh well, tomorrow it's going "up to 24'" (Yippee!)

    -Chilly Pete.
  • force1force1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 outback wagon that has 92,500 miles on it. I took possession In late July of 1999. Both head gaskets were just replaced (due to leakage) at my local Subaru dealer. The cooling system was also last serviced at 62,000 miles by this same dealer. While it cost me $1590 to repair (I also had oil pump rebuilt, new water pump and cam belt installed at same time)seemed to make sense as they were into the engine when replacing the head gaskets.
    Is there any possibility of recovering some of the labor and parts costs from Subaru as I was under 100,000 miles and obviously not older then 8 years, and the problem and solution were dealer diagnosed
    Who and how should I contact Subaru to investigate this possibility?
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    Call 1-800-SUBARU3 and open a case. Explain to them the details and tell them to review the case with Patti (the roving SOA employee here at Edmunds).

    DaveM
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    The reel I bought is a closed poly case and came with (and only holds) 50' of 3/8" hose. I have Milton quick disconnects on everything, so can add another 50' if need be (but so far have not needed to). You can buy an open reel type that holds 100' as well, which might suit your needs (75') better. I used it two nights ago - a great addition to my garage.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    The problem with cable brakes is achieving balance between L & R sides. The adjuster on the lever will take up the slack in the forward section, but once it splits, you might find that on side engages, the other side had little pressure applied. I posted more details in response to Lucian's question a few weeks back, but here it is condensed:

    On the backside of each rear brake there is a small rubber grommet in the backing plate that allows you access to the star gear that separates the brake shoes. Using a screw driver to turn the gear, you spread the shoes until they touch the inside of the drum, then back off a few notches. The difficult part is determining when they touch, as the rear wheels don't easily turn on an AWD car, like they do with FWD.

    Steve
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Thanks for the info, that will come in handy. I'm hoping it's just cable slack that's the problem, we'll see. We're headed out for a ski trip this weekend, so I was going to prep the car tomorrow AM and adjust the brake then.

    Craig
  • 98redgrey98redgrey Member Posts: 15
    Had the right rear cam seal replaced on my 98 obs (94k) but there is still oil seapage in the same area as evidence by oil on the bolt where the exhaust mounts to the engine.

    Since the cam seal has been ruled out (by replacing it) does anyone have any idea where this "wetness" is originating from?

    "it's rare for head gaskets to leak oil" they said, so...

    Thanks. Jon
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    This is the EJ22? IMHO, this o-ring is a hokey design, but if you're confident the replacement is working properly, my only comment would be that the wetness you're seeing doesn't go away right away.
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    I just replaced both headlight bulbs on my 02 outback . I got 2 years out of the original ones. I 'm using the sylvania silver star bulbs . I have had them for about 3 months now ,and they are much better then the standerd bulbs . I going to see how long they last .I am thinking about putting them in the high beam also .

    Mike K
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    The original bulbs lasted 3+ years. The frustrating part is I had the dealer replace one for me in Dec (before the 48hrs trip) with a regular bulb; then the other went on the 48hrs. I picked up the blue bulb (I'll check tonight for the brand- a mind is a terrible thing to lose:-) at which time I had both replaced two weeks ago (again while at the dealer). So all-in-all the blue bulb lasted 2 weeks. I think we are supposed to warm up to 28 tomorrow, so I'll try and check for any moisture at that time. I have to do it soon, before I get a ticket.

    Mark
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.