Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

1…219220222224225…385

Comments

  • Options
    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Definitely call the 800 #, at least get a partial reimbursement (they won't cover the wear and tear stuff like the belts).

    -juice
  • Options
    bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I replaced both OB bulbs about a year ago with two of whatever Pep Boys carries. Still ok.

    -Dennis
  • Options
    perezc1perezc1 Member Posts: 11
    I'm asking for an electronic diagnosis - always tricky. My 1999 Forester S (66,000 miles) has been having trouble starting up on these very cold mornings in the Northeast. Two days ago, after starting and stalling multiple times, the CEL came on, flashed for a few seconds and went out. Now the car (when it starts), is running really rough - idles down to almost to zero when stopped or stopping (low RPMs) - as if it's about stall, sputters and shudders with pops from the exhaust when you give it gas.

    We brought it to a local repair shop which said it produced the code for a bad "idle air valve" (I'm not sure what this is). The dealer has replaced the MAF sensor twice - once at 33,000 miles and again October 2002 (55K miles) under the recall. Any thoughts? What's a idle air (control?) valve and, if bad, would it explain the symptoms? Also, is it possible that a weak/dead battery could cause the computer to generate a false code and kill a fuel injector?

    Man, this car is a lemon!
  • Options
    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Take a deep breath. A lemon fails 3 times for the same problem in a single year or 12k miles, whichever comes first. So it's not a lemon.

    The stumbling could be condensation from the gas tank, something as simple as that.

    First, I'd reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Give it a fresh start. Wait 20 minutes, then reconnect, start her up and let her idle.

    Your first tank will get poor mileage, but it'll lean out the fuel mixture and should return to normal after that.

    Another thing, when starting, is to always let the fuel pump prime before you start. Turn the key to the On position, but don't start it. Listen for the "whirr" sound the fuel pump makes. Then start it. It should be smoother.

    The OE battery isn't very strong, so yeah, actually, an aftermarket battery with more CCAs will help if you have rough starting. It may be an early sign that your battery is beginning to fail. I'd change it pro-actively. Yours has already lasted more than mine (I have a '98 and the battery failed 2 years ago).

    Good luck and stick with us, we'll provide tips to keep it running smoothly.

    -juice
  • Options
    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Forgot to mention, I'd never topped off the battery. Check the levels, at least, and add distilled water (not tap water). Of course at this point I'd just swap it.

    -juice
  • Options
    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Perhaps it is bad gas? If you want, stop by our place on saturday and we can take a look. There should be a bunch of subaru gurus hanging around. Shoot me an e-mail for direx.

    -mike
  • Options
    nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    how much did you pay for the Sylvania bulbs? I'm considering upgrading my 01 OB.

    Thanks,
    Greg
  • Options
    locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the idle air control valve is what feeds in air to maintain idle when the throttlebody is fully shut. I really doubt it alone would cause your issues.

    sounds pretty bad.
    ~c
  • Options
    litespeed4litespeed4 Member Posts: 11
    My 2000 outback wagon (72k) has had some trouble starting in recent very cold weather. The engine will turn over, run for a couple seconds, then stall out. Finally starts only when you touch the gas. Then still runs rough first few minutes and may stall when put in gear.

    Any idea of potential problem / solution?
  • Options
    perezc1perezc1 Member Posts: 11
    Juice, et. al.,

    Thanks for the tips and suggestions. While I fully understand that lemon is a legal term, this Sube is sure leaving a sour taste in my mouth. The list of repairs - most of them major including replacing the cylinder heads and ultimately the engine short block, the clutch assembly (3x), the brakes/rotors (2x), the MAF (2x), the rear window, etc. - is quite long. However, this is my first problem "off-warranty."

    I'll take your advice about resetting the ECU and probably getting a new battery. My wife drove the car to work today - fine on the highway, but stalled twice at a light - so the idle control might actually be the problem. Also, most of the problems did start after getting a tank of gas last week from somewhere new. It was premium 92, though.

    Any idea or ballpark cost of replacing the said malfunctioning idle air control valve - if that is indeed the problem?
  • Options
    fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    At 72k miles I would look at the basics - weak spark or poor fuel mixing at cold temperatures.

    Weak spark - have you changes plugs, wires or even the ignition coil?

    Fuel mix - start with the basics - a large bottle of Chevron Tektron fuel system cleaner. This will help unplug dirty injectors (poor spray pattern / atomization) and remove deposits on the neck of intake valves that can interfere with pattern & mixing.

    Steve
  • Options
    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'll agree you've had more than your fair share of problems.

    FWIW, I'm on my original brake pads. Zero out-of-pocket costs for 59k miles, too.

    Not sure about the price, but check subaruparts.com for a wholesaler.

    -juice
  • Options
    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Two things I'd suggest are DryGas (condensation in the gas tank?) and priming the fuel pump. Turn the key to the On position, but let the fuel pump go "whirr" before you start it.

    -juice
  • Options
    c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    There is an idle speed controller that keeps the engine from stalling when you let off the gas. It could be the problem.

    Craig
  • Options
    locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I *think* it might live under the floating intake manifold on the EJ series engine, but don't take my word for it. And I have no idea how much it would cost to replace it...

    ~c
  • Options
    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Colin, any update on the M3, is it fixed or are they still working on it?

     Cheers Pat.
  • Options
    locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    they are delivering it to me tomorrow. w00t

    took a long time to get the wheels and some trim/moulding

    ~c
  • Options
    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Glad to hear that have you seen the finished repair yet? Did they do a good job?

      Cheers Pat.
  • Options
    jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    The outside thermometer on my 2001 OB (48k miles) only reads -20F this morning. When it was in the Garage (not heated but inclosed) it read -1.
    I don't think eaven Patti can help.

    Yes there is a bit of a chill this morning. We like to think it builds character.

    The warmest its been is -5 the past 3 days.

    Subie is starting fairly well. Makes noise, timing belt? piston slap? other? Still much quieter than a VW TDI that was next to me.

    --Jay

    In sunny but cool Minneapolis.
    Current temp -26F. Wind Chill about -50F.
  • Options
    lbhaleylbhaley Member Posts: 91
    Maybe I missed it, but did we ever get an answer to the question about whether the XT has hydraulic valves?

    -les
  • Options
    ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Still waiting for a definitive answer from Patti's sources.
  • Options
    98redgrey98redgrey Member Posts: 15
    "The outside thermometer on my 2001 OB (48k miles) only reads -20F this morning"

    Colorado is getting snow this weekend-can't wait to "let her out and run around alittle"

    See you at Loveland on Sunday

    Jon
  • Options
    fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    and leave it overnight. Rod knock, piston slap? Sounds like a diesel on startup, and the sound is still evident for several minutes after fully warmed up.

    Steve
  • Options
    jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Just a guess, but its not as loud as a diesel. Yesterday leaving work, in my subie wondering whats making the noise, I hear the noise get louder and more clanky.... a diesel Jetta pulled up behind me at the stop light...... and I thought my subie was noisy...

    --jay (wonderful high temp of -7F so far today!)
  • Options
    nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    uhmm, stay warm?
  • Options
    pattipcpattipc Member Posts: 53
    I reminded my techie friend to check that out for us today. Hopefully I'll have an answer for you on Monday. Sorry.

    Patti
  • Options
    hatesthevalleyhatesthevalley Member Posts: 2
    I got a new Forester XS today
    What are the important mileage milestones for scheduled maintenance? What needs to be done?
    I heard that it is bad to drive any new car with less than 500 miles on a long trip, that you shouldn't drive at a steady speed while new?
    True or not?
    Thanks
  • Options
    1adamb121adamb12 Member Posts: 1
    I would like to get some running boards and a rear dust deflector for my 2000 Forester any ideas?
  • Options
    ppekppek Member Posts: 58
    hatesthevalley, you should be fine going on a long trip, and will actually get to the time you can really use your new car faster. Your owners manual should have something in it.

    For my WRX, the break-in period was the first 1,000 miles, and I tried to keep it below 4000 rpms, never cruised for long at a constant speed, and overall took it easy on the engine (no heavy load launches, etc.)

    Enjoy your new ride!
    Paul
  • Options
    p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    hatesthevalley- What an interesting screen name. These is some debate as to whether today's new cars still require a break-in period but the standard party line is as Paul stated above (1k miles and below 4k rpm). The trip caution fall in to the same category so if you want to play it safe, take the trip but avoid using the cruise control for extended periods and try to vary your speed. Taking the scenic route on two-lane back roads is often a good choice since it provides a decent break-in environment (constantly changing rpms) and allows you the opportunity to become familiar with how your new Forester handles.

    In any case, congratulations on your new ride and feel free to join us in the Forester discussion where you'll learn more than you ever thought possible about your Forester.

    -Frank P.
  • Options
    rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Recently it's been squealing continuously--I took it as a sign that it's going to go out soon. Any suggestions?

    Eric
  • Options
    akasrpakasrp Member Posts: 170
    The Sales Facilitator where I got my XT really stressed the 1000 miles/less than 4K rpm/ vary the speed break-in triad.
    My cousin just bought an Audi A4 and his salesguy specifically said no break-in needed - those days are gone.
    Do Subaru Autobahn drivers follow our prescribed routine?
  • Options
    mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    I got the bulbs at Advanced Auto Parts . They had a special on them . I them in a 2 pak for 29.99 .Sylvania just started making the H1 silver star bulb about 3 months ago .

    Mike k
  • Options
    jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I check 1stsubaruparts.com for both mechanical and accessory parts. It gives you an idea of the going internet price. (They are a dealer in Washington state and accepted my SubaruBucks.) My local dealer is about 25% higher.

    Squealing alternator - it could be just the belt needing adjustment/replacement.

    Jim
  • Options
    ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    It's possible that Audi, selling costlier vehicles than Subaru, bench-runs all their engines long enough that they don't require any special break-in.

    I would suggest following the Subaru break-in guidelines as a minimum. I, erring on the side of caution, doubled my break-in period to 2,000 miles.
  • Options
    rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Thanks Jim for that site--It's really helpful compared to the alternative--buy OEM's from the dealer that I have to drive 1 hour to on a weekday and pay more for.

    As for the alternator, I hope it's just the belt, but I recently checked the tension and it's OK. I'm going to buy a stethoscope tonight to see if I can locate the source of the noise.

    Eric
  • Options
    pattipcpattipc Member Posts: 53
    Just enjoy the car, but maybe not tach it too high during the first 1K miles. I hope you are able to join us at our Thursday night chats.

    Congratulations!

    Patti
  • Options
    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Welcome and congrats!

    What color? Trans type? Options?

    Join us in the Forester thread, which is usually quite active.

    -juice
  • Options
    deadeye5deadeye5 Member Posts: 93
    Welcome aboard ! Break-in: I have a XT with auto --had it about one wk (200 miles) and left on a 1350 trip.Held it down to 60-65mph (and varied the mph) for the first 800-1000 mi. Then on the trip home let it go to 75mph most of the way home.All seems A-OK and MPG is improving with ea. tank A Great machine!!Have used passing gear about 2-3 times as--it is NOT required most of the time..Good Luck, Deadeye
  • Options
    sacosaco Member Posts: 5
    My just bought Outback Limited sedan came with auto-dimming mirror that is not the same as the one in the manual with compass. I'd like to know if the original equipment has been altered, how can I find out? Has anyone else had a problem like this?
  • Options
    p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Where do you guys take your used motor oil for recycling and does it make a difference if it's synthetic?

    -Frank P.
  • Options
    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Most auto parts stores and some quickie lube places will take oil for recycling. I take mine to Checker (Kragen in other parts of the country). Synthetic oils are dumped in the same recycling storage containers as dino, so it will make no difference.

    -Ty
  • Options
    subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    The oil recycle places here (the city has 2 of 'em) in my area take both oils. But, I bet it varies by municipality. :)

    -Brian
  • Options
    ppekppek Member Posts: 58
    What does the mirror look like that's in your vehicle? There are two main manuf. of auto-dimming mirrors. Magna Donnelly is what Subaru uses and has the compass display below the mirror. Gentex is the other, that many GM vehicles have, with the compass display in a "cut out" area in the upper right corner of the mirror itself.

    Does your vehicle have onstar? I'm not sure how Subaru incorporates onstar, but some manufacturers use a special rear view mirror.

    I replaced my auto-dimming/compass mirror in my WRX with a similar one that also included an outside thermometer, so I did a lot of research into these before I purchased it. By the way, I still have my original mirror if anyone is interested.

    Take care,
    Paul
  • Options
    joknechtjoknecht Member Posts: 8
    You guys are life savers. My mechanic told me on Friday that the coolant smell I was occasionally getting was from a leaking head gasket on my 2000 Outback. He gave me an estimate of 1000+, but suggested that I check the warranty. (The car has 57500) I figured I may have to do battle with the dealer, when I happened upon this board this morning. Tomorrow, I call Subaru and the dealer and get the sealant. Thanks again
    Alon
  • Options
    hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    North of the border, Crappy tire takes used oil dino or synthetic.

      Cheers Pat.
  • Options
    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Curbside pickup twice a month here. I keep forgetting to put it out, naturally :-)

    Steve, Host
  • Options
    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My guess? Street flooded and it came over the door sills and found a weak spot in the door seal. Had this happen to a friend in a Saab recently.

    -mike
  • Options
    jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Same as "Steve, Host" on both points! 8~)

    Jim
  • Options
    qcmaninalaskaqcmaninalaska Member Posts: 1
    all of the 98-04 2.5 liter Subies have BAD headgaskets and I doubt that STOP LEAK will do it. That would only work until the warrent is GONE. The dealer I am dealing with ADMITS the problems. He had 20 Subaru's in the shop this past Monday....all with blown headgaskets!!! That stop leak thing
    is just to save them a LOT of money. Good luck...but if you
    keep that car the headgaskets will blow sooner or later.

    qcmaninalaska
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles