Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

nygreg

could have a vapor lock or bubble in the cooling system. Some suggest when adding coolant to raise the front as high as possible to prevent this.

Greg

ateixeira

Try to "burp" it. I think there is a little bleeder valve on the rad.

-juice

nygreg

Place a towel on your shoulder and rub the hood of the car. Wait for the burp and an obnoxious odor.

G

njswamplands

zman3

It could be the head gasket(s).

dcab

Actually, it's more of an electrical noise than a mechanical noise ( if that makes sense). That's why I thought it might be related to the security system.

lfdal

Kind of a long shot, but are you sure its not one of the radiator fans?

jfl

Refer to post 2777

Earlier posts stated that the coverage only applied to Phase 2 engines.

As my 2000 Legacy has almost 85k miles, it's likely that I'll be over 100k by yearend.

Too bad I'll never be able to convince the dw about trading up to a 2005 Legacy GT.

Jim

atomic_robot

Found you guys via the USMB- I've got an '01 OBW with a coolant leak that developed over the last few weeks.

Had it at a local dealer about 4 weeks ago and mentioned that I was smelling coolant. They pressure tested the system and said it was OK, but also said something about tightening some bolts. Is that normal?

I'm still smelling coolant, but the level & temp have been alright. Then yesterday I had coolant on the garage floor, so I can only assume that the problem has grown worse.

I talked to another dealer (that I trust more) and mentioned the TSB and possible solutions. They said that they don't have the "official" word yet on a warranty extension, but expect something in a week or two. They're going to call as soon as they hear something.

Since I'm at 68K (out of warranty), I'm going to play the waiting game for a couple of weeks- keeping a close eye on my temp and coolant level and hoping I don't end up kicking in another $1K for a car I bought 3 months ago.

williamskm

I have noticed that noise too. A high pitched electrical noise. I only notice it after I have pulled into the garage and shut the car off. I didn't think too much of it. I did just have the head gaskets replaced about 2 months ago. I never noticed the noise until after that and really I think it has only been during this cold spell we have had in upstate NY. I'd be interested to know if you find the cause. My forester seems to be running just fine (Knock on wood!)
Kim

outback_97

I've sometimes noticed a mid to high pitched buzzing or "electrical" noise from the engine in my '97 OB... but that's a different phase than the new Forester exhibiting the noise.

I've never isolated it to a particular place, and it doesn't seem to do it all the time. Only noticeable when the hood is up. I'll try to track mine down and see where it's coming from.

utahsteve

nygreg

Call 800-subaru3 and open a case. This way it is on record with SOA as well as your dealer. Sounds like the second dealer is the one to work with. TSB is for coolant conditioner. If you are leaking already, it might mean a new HG. There has not been a single post here of a dealer just tightening bolts (Head bolts), but that won't work. We are all patiently waiting the upcoming TSB and its implications.

Greg

dcab

I drive a '97 Outback as well, and I've never heard the noise from it. That's what made it so surprising when we first started hearing the noise from the garage. At first we couldn't locate the noise and thought we were hearing things!

dcab

Is the coolant conditioner TSB for the Phase 1 engine in the 1997 Outback? What about a 2003 Forester?

I thought that I read somewhere that the conditioner is being recommended for 1998-2002 model years, but I may be mistaken.

dede2897234

To dcab, williamskm, and outback_97,

I have owned a 2003 Subaru Forester XS with the factory security system for the past 16 months. I too have noticed during the last two winters a constant high pitched noise coming from the engine bay (this noise comes and goes but is now constant). This noise occurs after I have been driving this vehicle for 30 plus minutes in cold night-time weather (below 32 degrees Farenheit) in the city or highway. The noise comes from the engine while I'm driving and after I park and shut off the engine. The noise goes away about 30 to 60 minutes after I park and shut off the engine in my garage. One night, late December 2003, I took the front grille off. Then, I took a Radioshack sound level meter and guided it throughout the engine compartment and in front of the radiator. The strongest reading I got from the sound meter (76db) came from the keyless entry buzzer hanging in front of the radiator. A few days later, I took the car to my local Subaru dealership (since it was forcasted to be below 32 degrees Farenheit outside). After parking the car in their garage, the keyless entry buzzer was making the high pitched noise again. I let the service manager verify the noise while I took apart the front grill. Then, I took the sound meter an pointed it to the keyless entry buzzer in front of the radiator. I showed the service manager the high reading (76db) on this device. He concurred that the keyless entry buzzer was defective. The service manager ordered a new keyless entry buzzer for me. I came back within a few days and their service department installed the new part. I have not heard that high pitched noise since then. As a result, I think all three of you should take your cars to your Subaru dealership (when it is below freezing outside) and let the service manager hear that high pitched noise coming fron the keyless entry buzzer after taking off the front grill. I hope this helps.

Dave

atomic_robot

Thanks for the suggestion. I called and opened a case with SOA- they were very courteous and helpful.

After a bit of discussion I decided that I'd take the car in for an inspection to fully evaluate the situation. Got a Monday AM appointment.

nygreg

good luck. Keep us informed.

Dave - You could be my mechanic any day.

Greg

maverick1017

LOL Greg, I don't think a towel will do it, maybe a poncho or something.

I actually thought about possible air bubble in the rad last night and did burp it, it seemed to have solved the problem. Temp gauge steady last night and today. didn't think there would be any air in the system since I filled the radiator with the bleeder screw off. oh well I guess. Incidently, when I changed the cooland I did notice an oily film on top of it, but didn't smell anything unusual. a while back I had noticed the coolant color to be off (pretty dark) in the overflow reservoir so I had the dealer take at look at it, they came back saying the color was due to dust from the accessory belts as they wear. Now I wonder if they were bs-ing me. I'll keep an eye on the coolant and the temp gauge.

On a side note, I was in Autozone lastnight and noticed that prestone had a coolant sealant additive, wonder if that can be used in place of the subaru factory stuff for peeps with head gasket problems with their engines (phase I or II).

Mike

stevek

my 99 Forester had the both head gaskets replaced in January of 2001 at 30K miles. Now at 72K miles the left one was replaced again (was done for free after some loud discussion with the service department). When I asked the service writer if they put in some of that AF additive I heard about he said it was not needed, the problem with the gaskets was corrected in 2002. I was just wondering if this is more of a machining problem than a gasket problem. I also have a 2001 Legacy GT with 75K miles wiht no problems.

timo43

I'll be as brief as I can-- but a little history is needed. First, really love this 03 Forester (and unbelievable in the snow!). Have, however, had a persistent headache with the CEL, starting 15 minutes out of the dealers after picking the car up new. The dealer has been pretty good, trying to solve this problem. They replaced the 'solodiod drain valve', but that did not do the trick. Every couple of weeks, the light would be back on for about two days. We took a trip across Canada, and for the first 7000 kilometers or so, the light came on a couple of times a week. Oddly enough, for the last 13000 kilometers, the light was off-- it never came on at all. But when we got back home, the dealer phoned, and said Subaru had told them to replace the computer-- so they did, and, wouldn't you know it, the CEL came on about a week later for two days. Then, a few weeks later, it came on again, this time for a whole week-- before it had always been only a couple of days. Here, too, is a new twist, and what I am specifically wondering about: At the 30,000 kilometer service last week, the mechanic said that there were no stored codes. So, although the CEL had been on twice, and once for about a week, apparently no codes were stored (the last time it had been on was about a month before I took it in-- we live some distance and an expensive ferry trip away from the dealer). The mechanic said I should bring it in when the light is on-- which is pretty much impossible, since we live so far away. Any ideas on why codes would not be stored? Thank you for any light you can shed on this. Tim.

samiam_68

Might just be a malfuction in the gauge cluster circuit board that causes the light to go on and off whenever it feels like. Also, maybe the gas cap is not air tight - do you smell any gasoline fumes at all?

p0926

The gas cap not being tightened enough is the number one culprit for triggering the CEL. Once the cap is retightened, the light will normally go out after a day or two but if left as is, will stay on until your next fill-up at least. Still, there should be an error code. So Sam's guess about a malfunctioning light makes sense or maybe they gave you another bad computer?

FYI: It's highly unlikely that you'll ever actually smell gas just because the gas cap isn't tight enough.

-Frank P.

cmuniz

My guess is that it is either a bad light or the gas tank is not holding pressure due to a bad cap or bad gas tank. Since there is no code, it appears there is no problem with what is being monitored (emmision control, but instead with the monitoring device,ie, light, sensor, etc.

timo43

Thank you very much for all your input into this problem. I've always been very careful to fully tighten the gas cap, knowing that a loose one can trigger the CEL-- but that is right, the cap itself could be defective. Before, there was always a code stored-- P443, which apparently meant a minor pressure problem. So it was new that no code was stored this past time, and I found that strange. I'll will look further at the defective gas cap possibility. Tim.

atomic_robot

Well, calling SOA was definitely the right decision to move my HG issue toward a quick solution- thanks again, Greg.

I got an inspection this morning (by a more trusted dealer) and they found that both HGs were leaking. I'm somewhat disturbed by the fact that the other dealer didn't find this; they won't be getting any more business from me.

The good news is that SOA is coming through for me bigtime and covering the replacement of both HGs. Got an appointment for tomorrow...

ateixeira

I would get the additive, in fact you'll get a letter telling you to do so. The dealer may not know yet. Information travels faster than supplies and instructions are given to dealerships.

-juice

ozman62

Rochcom - My '98 Forester clock went out as well. It's very easy to replace, just pry gently at the indent in the bezel (housing) of the clock. Use a really small flat screwdriver or equivalent to get it free. Check local auto wreckers for a replacement, just get a guarantee that you can return it if it too is defunct.
HTH, Owen

bat1161

I know everyone has been asking about tires, so forgive my asking again. Yesterday going down to the Philly show I had a blowout on my Dunlop Sport A2. The tires have about 24K miles on them, so I am assuming I will have to replace all 4. Since I may be upgrading to the '05, I am thinking of the Kumho Ecsta HP4 716 from Tirerack. Does anyone have any experience, either good or bad, with this tire? I figure rather than spend $110 on the Dunlops again, try and save a little $ hopefully towards the new car.

Mark

ateixeira

If it's a 60 series tire, try Vulcantire.com for the Falken ZE 512 tire. CR rated them #1, well above the Dunlop tire you mention, plus it actually costs less.

I have them on my Miata and so far, so good.

-juice

blawson2

We own a 2001 LLBean wagon and are experiencing a periodic water leak with water coming into the rear of the wagon area through the three tie-backs that are on the ceiling of the rear wagon area. The first time we took it to the dealer, they said they could not replicate the leak so they could not fix it. The second time we took it in, they replaced the sun/moonroof liner. That did not fix it.

We are about to take it in a third time and were curious if anyone else has experienced this problem and if there is a known solution.

Thanks for your help.

c_hunter

You can also buy one new Dunlop tire and get it shaved down to match the others. I believe Tire Rack can do this -- call and ask.

Craig

95gl

Hey guys- I know someone here has dealt with this in the past. Just got back from a ski weekend and someone who shall remain nameless leaned his skis on the side of my car. Of course gravity won and they slid off. I now have a nice 1/4" x 3"+/- scratch where the ski edges scratched off the the gold paint. Any ideas?
Keri

ateixeira

If they're deep you may need touch-up paint. That's gonna be one tough job, though.

-juice

bat1161

Craig-

Thanks for the idea. I'll give them a call and see what they say.

Mark

95gl

The scratches appear to only have taken off the paint, they don't go deep. I guess when it warms up I can try to get the touch up paint and that clearcoat/sealer product and see what happens.

c_hunter

I once had light ski scratches on a car, and they just went into the clear, not the paint. I just left it alone. If you've gone through the paint (so that you see the primer underneath) then definitely use touchup paint. You don't need clearcoat with Subaru touchup, as it has been formulated to work by itself.

If the scratch is real large, then you may want to buy a spray can of matched paint from someplace like www.paintscratch.com, along with a can of clear. With some basic skills, you can spray over the damage and it will look decent.

If you're really worried, take it to a body shop, they will know what to do, and it may not cost too much if they can do a local repair.

Craig

locke2c

if the scratches are light, a competent body shop can probably render them near invisible with simple polishing. $100 or so, tops.

get door dings fixed while in there to make it worth your time and theirs.

~c

jbernard1

I have a 2000 Impreza L Wagon. I have noticed that when driving on the highway on a windy day, a loud humming noise emanates off the windshield. The stronger the wind, the louder the noise. The noise can become quite loud at times. Is there some way to eliminate this noise and should I be concerned about it?

nygreg

Atomic - great news. SOA tends to be much more customer friendly than most other manufacturers. Let us know how it goes.

Barry - some people have encountered clogged drain lines on their sunroof. The lines are at the front corners. Pour some water and see if it drains. Another spot could be where the roof rack attaches to the roof in the rear. Just a guess.

Judy - has the car always have the humming or did it start recently? Lower part of the windshield could be the wipers. Try new blades. Is it possible it is your roof rack cross members? "Fat" part should be forward. Try removing them and see if the noise is still there.

Greg

nygreg

Atomic - great news. SOA tends to be much more customer friendly than most other manufacturers. Let us know how it goes.

Barry - some people have encountered clogged drain lines on their sunroof. The lines are at the front corners. Pour some water and see if it drains. Another spot could be where the roof rack attaches to the roof in the rear. Just a guess.

Judy - has the car always have the humming or did it start recently? Lower part of the windshield could be the wipers. Try new blades. Is it possible it is your roof rack cross members? "Fat" part should be forward. Try removing them and see if the noise is still there.

Greg

nygreg

I have the Kumhos on my OB with about 10k on them now. They are actually a pretty nice tire. Smooth and fairly quiet. They are wearing well as I rotated them a few weeks ago. Not as good at cornering as the A2s I had on before but wearing much, much better. Not great in the snow, OK in the rain. Definitely a good tire to tie you over to the 05s.

Greg

bat1161

Thanks for the info Greg. I have to see what I am going to do. In the meantime, I'm trying not to use the car with the donut on it.

Mark

ricrod

this is a follow up on message #2632.

Our forester went to the shop for two weeks and they found a leak from the windshield and the roof rack. The rook rack was repaired on the other side previously. After getting the car back we noticed that it looks like the dealer "filled the leakly hole" with sealent so now the roof rack doesn't sit flush with the roof, apart from a few other small items that need attention. Long story short, we have go again to the dealer.

For the Sub rep, I will try again to wait on hold to make my comments known. When I first called when we dropped off the car, the rep said she'd get back to me...she never did. So I will try again tomorrow when I can wait on hold.

masan

The small red light on my Forester's keyless remote burns constantly, and the remote now only works occasionally. I removed the battery for a few seconds. The light went off, but it came back on as soon as I put the battery back in place. Any ideas?

hypov

masan-
Over time, grease and grime could take residence on the edges of the button(s) and cause it to remain depressed; hence that little red light remain constance On [burn] and affect operation. Try cleaning it out. If that doesn't work, there's a faulty contact, a short, or the spring contact has degraded.

-Dave

atomic_robot

A day in the shop, both HGs replaced. SOA covered it, even at 68K. The dealer was really surprised that they picked up the tab.

I give a lot of credit to boards like this one and the USMB for providing me with enough info to make it happen- when I talked with SOA, I mentioned the letter that I knew they were sending regarding the HG warranty extension and told them that I didn't know if my engine was going to make it another couple of weeks. They told me to get it checked out ASAP and it would be taken care of.

I made a point to let them know that this was my second Subaru and that I had recently traded-up from a '93 (which I had always been happy with) to an '01. Repeat business means a lot to a car company IMHO, and if this is typical customer service then this will NOT be my last Subaru.

...my only (small) problem with the repair: when I got the car home, I took a look under the hood (like any good car freak) and noticed that the wiring to the radiator fans had not been re-connected. A small oversight I'm sure, but something like that always leads me to wonder if anything major was overlooked.

ateixeira

Glad to hear it. You did *exactly* the right thing. Called it in, emphasized the importance of having it looked at right away, and had good results.

-juice

kevin111

Their customer service. Compared to other manufaturers and dealers that they compete with, it just seems that Subi goes a little farther in helping out their customers with their cars. At least that is my experience.

atomic_robot - Great to hear that your car is fixed and everything is working well! I am sure the radiator fans was just a minor oversight.

articulate

Hi folks. Love this message board! Anyway, I have a 2000 Forester L with 60000 miles on it that's in the shop getting its 60000 mile service as we speak. I mentioned to the mechanic that I had been hearing a "howling noise" coming from the rear (seems like the right rear) that had gotten progressively worse over the last 2 or 3 weeks. The mechanic heard the right-rear noise when driving it, but when he put it on the rack and spun the wheels, then listened from below, he said it sounded like the noise was coming from the differential. Does this sound reasonable, and if it's a differential problem, is it something that is dangerous if not fixed right away?

I looked on this board for "howling noise" and found quite a bit of discussion about wheel bearings being problematic, but my mechanic said that while he suspected that as well, the listening test suggested otherwise. Any comments are greatly appreciated!

ateixeira

The L has an open differential so I seriously doubt that's it. The drain plus is sealed with epoxy, but you could ask your mechanic to change the gear oil there, it's due now anyway.

I would have sworn it would have been a wheel bearing, is he 100% sure? The likelihood is very high.

-juice