Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Thank you for the compliment by the way *blush*
    I am a NY'er born and raised... where people understand the expression "drive on the right, pass on the left". Maine even has signs with this motto posted on their freeways. Here on the West Coast, while it varies by state, I think the motto is something like "drive in the middle, go slow on the left, do whatever-the-hell-you-please on the right and feel free to weave in and out if it suites you. watch out for motorcycles sharing lanes on both sides of you" As for tailgaters? I don't know, I'm too busy watching out for the motorcycles on left and right in my lane with me to notice what's happening BEHIND me. -elissa
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Most likely your rotors are warped. It is a problem with the OB. They will probably try to resurface them. Ask if they can replace them as you only have 11K on the car. They should take care of this under warranty.

    Greg
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    with issues with West Coast drivers!!!

    What is the deal with the left lane being the slowest and the right lane being the fastest???? That, and the middle lanes do not have a clue.
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Here in Minnesota it looks like about 75% of the drivers drive in the left lane. Many times nose to tail at 75-80mph, sometimes the speed limit, etc.. Gets real scary during the winter.

    MNSteve - Geeze, is it ever going to warm up!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Retorque the wheels first, one might be overtorqued. Beyond that I'd have the rotors resurfaced with an on-car lathe.

    Wow, Larry, I have Gold Plus and didn't know that. I'll take it, though! LOL

    Maybe that does cover things like the clutch and brake discs (still probably not the pads)?

    -juice
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    have any of you driven in NYC and immediate surroundings lately? It's as if someone unlocked all the cages at the zoo at the same time.....
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    sam - you sure you didn't take a wrong turn and end up in Boston? I thought driving through NY was a breeze after driving metro Boston my entire life.

    BTW - I really want to put the HAL fix in this weekend. Been so busy doing jobs around the house plus cooking the dog food for the next seven months my last few weekends have been a blur.....
  • judyranjudyran Member Posts: 13
    Wow. I am in the same boat. I have an 01 Forester, I smell anti-freeze, and I hate hate HATE going to the dealer and getting in a fight over getting it fixed, if it is indeed the head gasket. Patti, could you help me? I want to take the car in on Monday May 10th. I'd like to leave an email but I don't want to get spammed. Can you email members thru Edmunds?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Do this - call 800-SUBARU3 and give them the name of your dealer. See if they'll even schedule the appt for you. Have them agree to cover it so you don't have to argue.

    Be friendly with the dealer staff, ask for the service team leader's name and greet him or her each time you go.

    I used to hate going to dealers, now I chat with them. The salesman will bring up the newest Subaru for me to test drive while I wait. I actually enjoy going now, oddly enough.

    -juice
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Wow, so sorry to hear that some have such bad times at the dealer and have to fight for service. :-( Try this if you haven't already. Go to Subaru's locate a dealer page:
    http://www.subaru.com/servlet/StateLocatorServlet
    You should notice some dealers in your state have the "Stellar Performer" symbol near their name. Or go to the current issue of Drive and see the Stellar Performer list (better, since they bold those dealers with repeat excellent customer satisfaction):
    http://www.drive.subaru.com/Spr04_StellarPerformers.htm

    I notice that my dealer, Carlsen Subaru, whose sales and service has far exceeded my expectations shows up on this list as a repeat performer. Whereas the next closest dealer which has pissed me off more than once, Ron Price Subaru, is not on the list at all.

    Perhaps you should find a new dealer if yours doesn't honor the warranty?
  • judyranjudyran Member Posts: 13
    Not a bad idea on the stellar dealers, but none of them are in Birmingham apparently, bolded or not.
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    One of the dealers I went to around here I did not have that great of an experience appeared on the list, another dealer I went to, which I had a great experience with, is not on the list. Oh well.
  • judyranjudyran Member Posts: 13
    The way I see it is, if I had Subaru backing me from the get-go, then the dealer is going to be nice no matter what. So that's why I was asking if Patti could help me.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    mine would be on it! But Patti already knows the kind of service they provide (high on her 'problem children' list).

    Steve
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    from west coast traffic analysis. My hypothesis is that we are in such a hurry to get somewhere, we immediately shoot into the left lane to get that 78 mph we are looking for. Since everyone is doing the same, pretty soon the left lane is back to 60 and the merge lane is at 65. Then chaos emerges, as people dart back and forth to find some "niche". Me, I grew up in LA (yes, I was one of those motorcycles on the side of your car *sigh* 25 years ago).

    Just think Elissa, if you were driving a 1971 AMC Pacer, there would be no room for a motorcycle and you in the same lane.

    John
  • miamixtmiamixt Member Posts: 600
    There is Justice in the World. My Dealer who didn't even have a Service Department, or trained Mechanics just closed down less than a Year after their "Grand Opening". While I voiced my concerns with Subaru of America in August, I wonder how this could of been allowed, no Parts and no Service available from Potamkin Subaru of Miami/Planet Automotive, good riddance you Third World Morons!
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    I have been to Boston many times, and driven around the Boston metro area, but I still think NYC is the worst of the worst. I have lived in the area for a long time, and have driven a good 300,000+ miles around NY/NJ over the years, but am very often surprised by what transpires on the roadways. For example, the other day, an elderly lady was driving in the left lane on Rte 46 (6-lane divided highway) GOING IN THE WRONG DIRECTION. Caused quite a stir... I won't even get started about the NYC cabbies...

    Larry - good luck with the HAL fix.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    And how dumb was that business model? They make their profit from service, not sales. Duh.

    -juice
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    Yeah, I looked at that list and saw that of the two dealers in my area, one is on the list and the other isn't. The one on the list has been incompetent, rude and insulting, and dishonest. The one not on the list has been helpful, truthful, and adequately did the job.

    I don't think much of this list. And my evaluation of the "Stellar" dealership is based on three separate incidents and all departments (sales, service, and parts), so it is not based on just one bad experience.

    Oh, what the heck, I'm naming names:

    "Stellar Performer" - Matt Slap, Newark DE

    Not on the list: Castle, New Castle DE

    --K9Leader, Newark DE
  • b26erb26er Member Posts: 2
    I have a '98 Impreza Coupe w/99k that rides and drives. Dealership(s) say struts leak (front worse than back) and the power steering rack boot leaks. First, PS reservoir shows very little leakage but there is dampness around boot. Second, I have no idea about the struts, I can't see the leaks. What's the risk factor here? In general, how long do struts last and where do they usually leak from (I want to see if they are leaking or not). Do PS boots usually blow out or is a slow leak manageable? Thanks!
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    At 6 years and 100k miles, I would venture that you are way overdue for a new set of struts. Granted, they hold up better today than they used to, but it will probably feel like a whole new car when you drive out with a new set. It is one of those things that you don't really notice as their dampening effect degrades slowly over time. If you are not convinced, add 3-4 of our closest linebacker friends and go for a ride on a twisty road before and after (that is assuming you can keep control of the car and survive the first ride). ;-) And do all four!!

    On the steering rack, again, seal leaks usually progress over time. I would just keep an eye on it.

    Steve
  • johncameronjohncameron Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Forester was towed to the shop this morning to have its clutch replaced. This is my wife's vehicle and has 43K mostly rural driving miles (not quite highway but similar). The dealer says that such an early replacement of the clutch is not unusual for a Subaru, depending on the driver (clearly implying that women do not know how to drive a clutch-equiped vehicle). The repairs are supposed to cost over $800 when I pick-it up in a couple of hours from Bob Dunn Subaru in Greensboro, NC (where I purchased it new).

    I have reviewed other Subaru forums and see that clutch problems were endemic on late-90's Foresters. We they still a problem on 2002 models? If so, my Forester is going to be for sale soon and I will suggest the my son gets rid of his new Outback too.

    From reading other posting, I note that Subaru of America monitors this forum. If they do, I would certainly appreciate having a quick response to my inquiries.

    Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Make a call to 800-SUBARU3. Even though it was a wear-and-tear item, the mileage is very low for total clutch failure.

    My guess is they might offer to help out a little with that $800 bill.

    My 1998 Forester has 62k miles on its original clutch, heck I'm still on my original brake pads, even my spark plugs! These are not generally expensive-to-maintain vehicles. I've spent exactly zero out of pocket beyond normal service.

    -juice
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    On the Clutch Replacement

    43K and needing a new clutch! Wow. My first Subaru was an '84 GL - it had it's original clutch replaced at 185K. Yes, that's a 1-8-5 and 3-zeros. It was only a two wheel drive though. After having some transmission related problems on my '01 manual transmission Forester, hearing about the clutch and flywheel issues with many others, and hearing a service tech at the dealer comment that he "would recommend automatic tranny subarus due to the weight of the vehicle and the strain on the tranny... " I decided while I still like the brand, I'd go with an automatic next time around (hence my new '04 AT F-XT).

    You might try to investigate if some other component (that IS covered in your power train warranty) could have been at fault in the failing of the clutch. Perhaps, your wife's car suffered some flywheel issues that caused the clutch to work too hard? Then that should be warranty and comp'd IMO. If they won't cover it, you should consider getting the work done elsewhere and save yourself $400. Then get an AT next time around.

    Driving Tips in a Manual Trans Subaru

    When I brought my MT Forester to the dealer for a new first gear at 35K miles, the drivetrain specialist took me out for a demo ride and gave me some very valuable tips on preserving my transmission, I'll pass them along to you:

    1) Never ever ever NEVER should you down-shift to first while the wheels are turning. Never. Even if you are rolling at 2mph up to a stop sign. Put it in neutral, come to a stop, then put it in first. It's annoying but you'll get to keep your first gear and your clutch longer. I know people SAY they don't downshift into first, but watch yourself next time you come to stop sign. I bet you shift down while the wheels are still rolling.

    2) Take the car out of gear when stopped at a light - you'll wear the clutch bearings out otherwise.

    3) No need to cycle through the gears while coming to stop sign. Just brake, neutral, stop and 1st gear.

    4) Learn to double-clutch for all down-shifting, up-shifting too if you are so inclined. There are some very helpful web-sites that will teach you how to double-clutch. The premise is that you assist the clutch by rev'ing the engine to the same speed as the gear you're shifting into so that the transition is smoother and easier on the car. The job of a clutch is essentially that - to act as a "slip-plate" if you will between the engine and transmission gearing. It made a huge difference in how smoothly I down-shifted and added to the fun-factor of driving a manual. You might want to practice the technique while driving someone else's car. ;-) Don't worry about the whole 'heel-toe' technique if you come across it - it usually requires a modification to do in a subie with rubberized foot pedals.

    5) Up-shift between 3000 and 3600 RPM.

    Hope that all helps! - Elissa
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Some Foresters have had clutch issues (chattering) but I don't know that I've heard of any total failures. It's certainly worth a call to SOA but getting help on the replacement cost is going to be dependent on convincing them that the problem is defect related and not driver related. There was a caller on Car Talk recently whose daughter completely burned out a clutch in a 45-minute time span learning to drive. In that instance there were only 60 miles on the odo! Were there any warning signs in your case that the clutch was starting to go?

    -Frank P
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    My 01 Forester had 65k on the odo when I traded it and no clutch problems. Still, Subaru switched to a beefier clutch for the 2nd generation Foresters (or does that only apply to the XT models?).

    -Frank P
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    board. Thanks!

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    that the dealer wasn't implying that it was a "woman" issue. By saying it depends on the driver could mean any number of things. The dealer will look at it when it is taken apart to see what caused the failure. Are there "hot spots" on the flywheel or even wear? Are the roads were the car is driven have debris, etc.? There are so many factors that go into the wear of the disc. If the problem is with the pressure plate or flywheel - that's covered under the powertrain warranty for 5/60. The disc would be covered as resultant damage.

    Please call in and start a case. We can check to see if it was a worn disc or if there was more to it. Some drivers rest their foot (albeit lightly) on the clutch and that can contribute to wear and that may be what the dealer was implying. I want to give them the benefit of thinking they wouldn't have accused your wife. Did they actually say that??

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    explanation - this doesn't mean that things like brake pads or clutch disc' would be covered. Often, aftermarket extended service agreements have clauses that will not cover things like engine loss of compression or problems with the rings, seals, etc. They don't cover them because they say that it is normal wear on the engine. We (Added Security) have no such exclusions. You'd be amazed at the things they will try not to cover with some of those extended service agreements!

    Patti
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    Patti, I really wish I belonged to this board a couple years ago. I purchased a 99 GT LTD 30th Sedan and the 100k Gold Warrantee. A couple years back, the gasket on the sunroof developed a tiny tear on the seam. As it was explained to me, the gasket was covered, but because the gasket was attached to the entire sunroof assembly which is glass, and glass is not covered, the gasket could not be repaired under warrantee. $350 plus labor, please. Long story short, the gasket still has the tear. Lesson learned, when I replaced my 96 Outback with an 03, I did not opt for the warrantee. Rob M.
  • jazzjazz Member Posts: 15
    My new Forester is an automatic, but I always followed tips 1, 2, and 3 in the Civic that I sold to get the Forester (less than a month ago). Perhaps that contributed to the fact that it still has the original clutch after 175,000 miles and 13 years!
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    If you match transmisson speed to engine speed properly, downshifts can be accomplished easily without undue stress on the drivetrain (this can be done without a "true" double clutch & with or without a clutch). This includes downshifts to 1st with or without syncros. However, the margin of error is very slim with the high gear ratio in 1st - especially in a non-syncro.

    Popping into neutral for long stops will extend the life of the TOB.

    Lightly tapping 2nd gear syncro before shifting to 1st or reverse from neutral will stop the laygear shaft from rotating & allow easier access to either gear without force or grinding (reverse & non-syncro gears).
    I never had premature driveline failures - even from my old fragile 50's & 60's British sports cars or other manual equipped vehicles downshifted at or near redline frequently, by ear.

    Also, I never had a problem with heel & toeing with rubber, tar, etc., on the pedals...
    If you learn to heel & toe properly (my preference is the heel on the brake - pedal placement dependent), you will find that you won't need to use the handbrake to start on an incline as an added benefit.
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    The early Austin-Healey 3000 MkI had a fragile first gear. I ended up replacing mine and also putting in a Corvette clutch disk. Never had a problem after that. But I did get a '65 AH 3000 MkIII. Loved that car!

    MNSteve
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Yep, the Mk I's did plus the hassle of the trip SU's to sync - duals weren't a problem. I've driven Healey's from the 100-4 up but my preference was the '65-67 Mk III's. A lot of the Big Healey's that were for sale seemed to always be driven by a careless owner with a couple of teeth missing out of the non-syncro 1st back then. I made an offer on a beautiful blk w/ red int. '65 for $250 in '67 due to teeth missing - owner wanted $1500. He called back 2 days later to accept my offer but I had already bought a '59 TR-3A & didn't need 2 cars at that time...that came later when I needed a backup sports car - one broke, I drove the other while under repair... :)
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    I have never, ever, ever, NEVER had any clutch problems in any of my cars, including one previous Subaru, and I always, always , ALWAYS, shift into 1st while the car is moving. Otherwise, how am I supposed to pull away from a slow roll? Second gear is definitely not the way to go if you're doing anything below 12-15 MPH - that would put a LOT of strain on both the clutch and the engine.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    nice write-up with the clutch techniques, but I don't see the point of never shifting into first except when the vehicle is stopped.

    All shifts into first will have the clutch fully depressed, thus it should not matter one way or another if the clutch stays in and the vehicle is either rolling or stopped. If the suggestion is that it is easier on the first gear synchronizer, perhaps there is some merit, but rolling or stopped has no affect on clutch wear if the clutch stays depressed. The fact is, the clutch is touching neither the pressure plate nor flywheel in either situation, thus no affect.

    John
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,399
    Thanks for the interesting tips on driving a manual tranny. I really want to pay attention on my technique as we all probably do it on reflex after a while.

    Unfortunately, my 2000 Legacy came down with the popping out of gear problem and is in the shop. 8~(

    Jim
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    1) Never ever ever NEVER should you down-shift to first while the wheels are turning. Never. Even if you are rolling at 2mph up to a stop sign.

    If any new-car service manager or technician told me this about my new vehicle, I would tell him that he would never see me or my car again. Any modern syncromesh transmission that actually requires this cumbersome procedure merely to deliver reasonable clutch or transmission life is by definition inadequate for its purpose.

    I would never attempt to slam into 1st gear while moving 15 or 20 mph except in an emergency - but for a dealership representative to say that a synchronized 1st gear cannot ever be gently engaged while rolling at 2 to 4 mph is incredible. When I reluctantly sold my '79 Mazda RX-7 after 10 years and 200,000 brisk miles, the original clutch and gearbox were still operating as new, and I never avoided engaging 1st at low speeds.

    That is exactly what the synchromesh is designed to permit. Otherwise, it has absolutely no purpose.
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Thanks for the added tips! I forgot some of those.

    As for everyone else's arguments about downshifting to first, I'm not saying you should or shouldn't... just telling you what a Subaru-trained drivetrain expert passed along to me. The implication was that the AWD systems are very laborious for the synchros, etc to deal with particularly when downshifting to first. I downshifted to first for 185K problem-free miles on my first front-wheel drive subie before replacing the clutch and for 110K problem-free miles on my front wheel drive civic before selling it in excellent condition. I'm just suggesting we might want to use caution when doing this on an AWD subaru, especially considering the history of Manual Transmission issues.

    Tell you what, I'll pose the question to click and clack and let y'all know what they say! :-) Fair 'nuff? -Elissa
  • joybelljoybell Member Posts: 275
    Oh-oh! I shift into first when approaching a line of backed up slow moving cars. I shift into first when driving into a parking lot......and all this while the wheels are still moving. Also, I hate "coasting" in neutral and always avoid doing it. I love shifting down to 2nd before coming to a full stop to save wear on my brakes. I hardly ever double clutch.......Oh my, how long will my transmission last? I have been driving this way for...ahhh...too many years to change now.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    If yes - can you please mail in the bills to us. Please put on the envelope to the Rep. that I would like to review the repair orders.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Huh??

    Never ever ever NEVER should you down-shift to first while the wheels are turning. Never. Even if you are rolling at 2mph up to a stop sign.

    Yeah, if you have a car without a syncro first gear (which means something of 1960's vintage or earlier)...

    Bob
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    The implication was that the AWD systems are very laborious for the synchros, etc to deal with particularly when downshifting to first.

    Okay I'm no expert but I fail to see why AWD would make a difference.

    I'm just suggesting we might want to use caution when doing this on an AWD subaru, especially considering the history of Manual Transmission issues.

    Huh? A few reports of chattering/shuddering in first generation Foresters and suddenly the entire model line is suspect? Okay so you had a problem with your Forester but I don't think that's typical. Oh yeah, there have also been a number of reports of burned out clutches in WRXs but I suspect many (if not most) of those were due to dumping the clutch at high rpm ;-)

    -Frank P

    PS Elissa, I'm not trying to pick on you. Just think we need to keep things in perspective.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Ditto that JB. That's got to be among some of the most idiotic advice I've ever heard!

    Bob
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Just be glad you don't drive square-tooth, no-synchro transmissions! Double-clutching required, and you better pull it into the next gear between 700-1100 rpm, or it wasn't happening! (the ol' "7-11 split" on 70's era Seagrave Fire Trucks)

    Ahhh... the good old days....
    Cheers!
    Paul
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    ...sounds like the Ford farm tractors I drove in the '50s. All spur-cut and no synchro on any gear. Top gear was good for about 30mph on the highway, but you either had to start in top gear from a standstill (clutch-slip city!) or else start in a lower gear and try to do a double-clutch upshift on the most difficult gearbox imaginable.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Ditto that JB. That's got to be among some of the most idiotic advice I've ever heard!

    What drives me crazy is that this "advice" was supposedly voiced by a Subaru technician. If so, this technician is desperately in need of remedial gearbox training.
  • dulesdules Member Posts: 37
    Hi,

    I searched the forums but could not find the answers to my questions. I'm hoping someone here can help.

    We have an 03 Forester XS, and a 5 month old who's just moving into a Britax Marathon car seat (rear facing). We tried to install it in the center position today using the LATCH anchors from the inside of each of the outboard positions, but I didn't feel comfortable with doing this. Do we have to use an official "pair"?

    So we moved it to behind the passenger seat, where I don't like the baby to be because it's safer in the center.

    DH really wants to use the LATCH not the belt (from the cargo area ceiling).

    If we are successful in getting it into the rear center, (rear facing), how do we tether it? At the floor level near the console the tethers would interfere with the front seat motion (both sides).

    Right now we have it tethered to the outside of the passenger seat (where it meets the floor) and angled back as far as possible, and, oddly, we have lots more room than we did with the infant seat, which leads me to believe we've done something wrong...?

    Sorry this is so jumbled. My brain, these days, is jumbled - sleep deprivation!

    Thanks for any and all advice!

    Best,
    Mary
  • deadeye5deadeye5 Member Posts: 93
    Have seen many Posts here on manual Tran.. My question: With a auto tran--when I catch a Long traffic light--I go to N.just seems to me--to have a car trying to go fwd while in D is Dumb-so, I go to N. Friend says DO NOT......Comments.???
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,399
    Interesting thought but in 40+ years of the auto tranny I figure 99.999% of drivers don't do this. In fact I'd be more concerned of the constant shifting affecting the linkage components much more than the tranny doing what it was designed to do.

    My $0.02.

    Jim
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